Official Mitsubishi WD XX833 Owners Thread - Page 112 - AVS Forum
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post #3331 of 3509 Old 11-18-2010, 12:02 PM
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I need a burned out lamp with housing for Mitsubishi rear-projection tv's.

The Mitsubishi part number is 915P061010 and the same lamp module is used on the following models:

WD-57733
WD-73833
WD-65833
WD-57734
WD-57833
WD-65733
WD-65734
WD-65833
WD-73733
WD-73734
WDC657
WDY577
WDY657

Anybody have one that they are willing to sell? Please PM me if you do.
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post #3332 of 3509 Old 11-20-2010, 11:56 PM
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Lujan,
I finally managed to get our 73833 to work with the starter kit. First, you need to make sure you have the latest update...or you'll just get a green flashing screen. You can call Mitsubishi's customer service and ask for it (or demand it). Be forewarned, I've found their customer service to be a "nightmare". Efficiency is the last thing they offer and their normal and horrible, typical response is often, "we'll have someone get back to you within the next two business days." They are without question, the worst customer service provider I have ever encountered. That said, once you have the correct update, you need to go into the menu settings and make sure your hdmi input is labeled game. For whatever reason, that is the only way the 3d will work. You'll know the glasses work when you view a 3d source as in from cable, directv or 3d bluray. You'll have to make sure your glasses are obviously on. By the way, check out http://www.ultimate3dheaven.com/dlp3dwiglfis.html for your glasses. They sell their glasses for 1/3rd the price of Samsung and they work just as well! We bought 3 pair and they work great! Hope this helps. Last thing, unfortunately, using the 3d mode on the Mitsubishi adds a noticeable green to blue push. Mitsubishi is well aware of this and they don't admit to it being an issue. Hopefully, maybe enough customers will complain and maybe...just maybe, they'll find a firmware fix for it.
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post #3333 of 3509 Old 11-21-2010, 07:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info and link. I just got my first 3D movie that I'm going to watch tonight (A Christmas Carol), can't wait.

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post #3334 of 3509 Old 11-27-2010, 10:15 AM
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My 73833 had normal geometry (from what I've been reading on this forum), but overnight it developed a sudden gross distortion on the left side of the screen. Every input is affected so it is not the source material.

The most noticable is that there is a trapezoidal indentation running down the middle third of the left side of the screen, the indent being 1.5 inches deep towards the center (the picture is not displayed in this area but is crushed into the center). Obviously the area around this is blurry.

Does anyone think this could be a "normal" hardware failure, or is it more likely that someone impacted the TV and caused the damage?

The screen appears to be in good shape. I took it off and took a look at the mirror and projector and didn't notice any problems.

No matter how the damage was caused, any ideas on what might be defective?

I'm going to follow up with a pic, and more once I get home from the T-day travel...

Thanks!
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post #3335 of 3509 Old 11-27-2010, 10:18 AM
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post #3336 of 3509 Old 11-28-2010, 04:04 PM
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I want to get 3D movies for my WD-65833. My question is if I get a Panasonic BluRay player that outputs with the checkerboard pattern do I need anything other than glasses and a emitter? I already ordered the software update. Obviously 1.4 cables too.

Thanks
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post #3337 of 3509 Old 11-28-2010, 04:50 PM
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I just ordered a 73838 and was woundering if it is compadible with a SAMSUNG 3D WiFi Ready Blu-ray Player BD-C7900
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post #3338 of 3509 Old 11-28-2010, 05:07 PM
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I have an 833 set as well.

If you want 3d from cable, ps3, xbox360, directv, you will want the adapter . 3DA-1

If you just want 3D from bluray, the panny DMP-BDT300-orDMP-BDT350 will do just fine outputing checkerboard. Another plus is HD audio bitstream support for 1.3 AVRs with its dual HDMI ports. Dont worry about those cables being 1.4 spec. Not nessecary for you. 1.3a will do just fine.

Rule of thumb...anything that outputs Side by side, top bottom etc, you will need that adapter to covert to checkerboard. Some of the PS3, x360, and pc games output in checkerboard. Convenient eh?

The 3d capable reciever is the other thing, you either want hd audio or you can use optical unless you have a rare situation. I have an older 5300ES sony that passes 3d video and bitstreams audio with 3d Bluray. Truely an unexpected suprise, being that most 1.3 AVRs don't understand how to seperate the audio stream if bitstreaming from 3D bluray media. This is being sourced from a HTPC with an Nvidia GTX460. You may also need to pick up a hdmi switch to get things working exactly the way you want them to.

More education certainly available in the 3D forums here at avs.

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post #3339 of 3509 Old 11-28-2010, 05:30 PM
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so to use that samsung all I need is a adapter right?
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post #3340 of 3509 Old 11-29-2010, 05:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanman68 View Post

I want to get 3D movies for my WD-65833. My question is if I get a Panasonic BluRay player that outputs with the checkerboard pattern do I need anything other than glasses and a emitter? I already ordered the software update. Obviously 1.4 cables too.

Thanks

That should do it, you just have to remember to set the 3D to "Checkerboard" and turn off "Viera Cast" or whatever they call it that detects the TV input on the Panasonic. I'm using it currently with my 73833 and I use HDMI 2 for 3D and HDMI 1 for everything else because the "Game" and 3D setting seems to look washed out so I don't want to use it for everything.

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post #3341 of 3509 Old 12-18-2010, 07:16 AM
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Hope someone can help with this problem. Have done some searching and found similar problem but with different error codes. After running several minutes the WD 73833 will shut down with a blinking orange or red led which blinks for a minute. When it stops blinking I can turn set back on and it often runs the rest of the night with no issues or it may shut down after a few minutes. Sometimes it work great for days and sometimes it shuts down several times in a row. If I unplug or do a reset with the button on front pannel it seems to become more stable (ie shuts down less often). I pressed the INPUT and MENU buttons for 5 seconds and got error code 32. Do you guys know what this indicates? Note that I changed the bulb about 6 months ago and have installed firmware version 9.03 to fix some 3D issues recently but this started at least 5 weeks after making those changes...
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post #3342 of 3509 Old 12-24-2010, 07:07 AM
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Does anyone have any idea how to mount an xbox kinect motion sensor to the top of a 65? The legs on the mount are too short for the mounting holes on the back. Thanks, have a great holiday.
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post #3343 of 3509 Old 12-31-2010, 05:19 AM
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Getting a headache trying to google up searches for my problem, and can't really find much. Maybe because I don't know what to call it or something, I dunno. May as well drop in on the the best A/V forum for help!


Anyways, I've been having HDMI issues with my 73833 for almost a year now. In particular, I get blinking of the picture, sometimes a complete reset as if the resolution (or input) was being changed. I noticed it most often with the xbox360. When I got my 3DC kit, I noticed lots of errors related to the cables so I changed them. Problem seemed fixed... So I thought? Mind you, none of this is related to 3D function though.

The xbox360 has been blinking like crazy now. A/V just blinks of and back on almost instantly, followed up with the now ocassional full reset. I was starting to think the 360 was failing, but my PS3 (which I really almost never use aside from watching bluray movies) this week decided to chime in on the problem while watching DVDs. I get audio corruption as if there is static in the sound. The PS3 a few times has randomly just shut off blinking the red light at me (not to be confused with the yellow light of death). I suppose the random shut off could be due to some error with the HDMI connection. It definately was not overheating, and it would turn right back on resume normal function.

Steps I have taken to resolve the problem include...

Changing the HDMI cables
Changing the HDMI inputs used.

Results...
Changing the cables has had no impact. However, if I use component, the problem goes away allowing me to rule out that either gaming system is failing.

Changing the HDMI inputs did nothing to resolve the problem either... Except in one case. HDMI-4, on the front of the TV seems to be completely problem free, leaving me with a problem that appears to be related to HDMI 1~3 on the back of the TV.

Knowing that, I've tried to source out what the problem could be, or how to even resolve it. I've been unable to find anything >.>
Rarely goes google fail me!

I don't know the inards of the TV really, but I am half assuming the HDMI hardware at the back of the TV is failing (which would mean the HDMI in the front is seperate?). Could it be something else, like static in the air, or dust? I mention static because it's winter and it got really bad just recently... Kind of funny, but it's so bad my dogs are highly charged living batteries (they walk around and you hear the fizzzzzaap!!! and thunderous cracks of static lightning bolts) TV is 3+ years old now, and never dusted the inside, muchless never felt reason to, but I saw on some forum canned air might help. Hard to imagine that would do it though.

Any info or help would be appreciated.
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post #3344 of 3509 Old 01-03-2011, 09:54 AM
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if you are using any type of splitter or switcher in your configuration this could be a potential source of the problem. i have been todl that the HDCP protection modes think that you are copyng, and produces strange signals.

hope you can isolate the problem.
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post #3345 of 3509 Old 01-03-2011, 02:23 PM
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nope, no splitters or switchers of sorts involved.
Just a straight connection to the TV.
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post #3346 of 3509 Old 01-05-2011, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleverland View Post

Hope someone can help with this problem. Have done some searching and found similar problem but with different error codes. After running several minutes the WD 73833 will shut down with a blinking orange or red led which blinks for a minute. When it stops blinking I can turn set back on and it often runs the rest of the night with no issues or it may shut down after a few minutes. Sometimes it work great for days and sometimes it shuts down several times in a row. If I unplug or do a reset with the button on front pannel it seems to become more stable (ie shuts down less often). I pressed the INPUT and MENU buttons for 5 seconds and got error code 32. Do you guys know what this indicates? Note that I changed the bulb about 6 months ago and have installed firmware version 9.03 to fix some 3D issues recently but this started at least 5 weeks after making those changes...

I'm having the same issue and mine also started after I did the firmware update to fix the 3d blue screen issue. Haven't tried getting the diagnostic code.
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post #3347 of 3509 Old 01-08-2011, 08:08 AM
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I sent Mitsubish an email and they called me back a week later and left a message. They said the error code was for an open lamp door. When I get a chance I will pull the set out and open and reclose the door to see if this will fix it. Just recently I got a new symptom when it turned off I got a solid red light!! I turned it back on and it has worked fine for about 4 days now. I think I will wait to do anything till it turns off again....Don't want to cause more problems by messing with it???

I have had this set since 11/2007 and just love the picture. I sure would like it to last until the prices come down on the new Laserview and they get the 3D refined, built in transmitter etc.


OK I turned it off let it cool, pulled it out from the wall and checked the door. It was closed tight. I opened it up and figured out where the switch must be and then pushed it against the springy switch several times to try to figure out if it was a sticky switch or if ithe contacts were dirty etc... Closed it up again and now we will see if this fixed it or not.....


This has worked perfectly for the last 7 (Updated) days. I guess the switch contacts must have been sticking or got dirty or something. By closing the door against the spring action and excersizing the switch several times must have had a positive effect!!! Still keeping my fingers crossed!!!!!
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post #3348 of 3509 Old 01-13-2011, 09:30 AM
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UPDATE... >.>

I stand corrected on that idea that 2 or more consoles could be failing... *censored frustration*

My 80gb PS3 died last night in a 60 second blaze of trash. Turned it on, went immediately to the PSNStore to see if there were any new 3D movies for rent seeing as how my Comcast cable onDemand has blow up with 3D content O.O; Right as I access the store, the PS3 died. It's completely dead. YLoD dead.

Which means my xbox360 issue could perhaps be a problem with hdmi 1080p, which seems to be issues for some people with some TVs. Granted, it hadn't done it in months since I changed the cable, but who knows. I am now running my secondary 360 on the TV at 1080p to see if I can reproduce the problem with that. If so, I'll try the 1080i and 720p resolutions which apparently fix the issue. Still doesn't explain why the front HDMI port worked fine though, and the rear ones give me issues with the primary xbox360. The cable box works fine connected to any of the HDMI ports. Doesn't make much sense.

On a side note, I glad to see more 3D becoming available so I can see my 73833 use it's full potential! May have to pick up a pair of optimas or something, cause the color tint on blacks really is annoying. Although dropping the contrast and brightness has helped some. Meh.

Ah well, just glad to know the problem wasn't the TV, which I was so sure was the problem. Blurayless though, so my TV feels like it might as well be dead.


@Cleverland
Glad to hear your TV is up and running again!
Almost gave me a scare seeing as how we did the update around the same time
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post #3349 of 3509 Old 01-18-2011, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapix View Post

UPDATE... >.>

I stand corrected on that idea that 2 or more consoles could be failing... *censored frustration*

My 80gb PS3 died last night in a 60 second blaze of trash. Turned it on, went immediately to the PSNStore to see if there were any new 3D movies for rent seeing as how my Comcast cable onDemand has blow up with 3D content O.O; Right as I access the store, the PS3 died. It's completely dead. YLoD dead.

Which means my xbox360 issue could perhaps be a problem with hdmi 1080p, which seems to be issues for some people with some TVs. Granted, it hadn't done it in months since I changed the cable, but who knows. I am now running my secondary 360 on the TV at 1080p to see if I can reproduce the problem with that. If so, I'll try the 1080i and 720p resolutions which apparently fix the issue. Still doesn't explain why the front HDMI port worked fine though, and the rear ones give me issues with the primary xbox360. The cable box works fine connected to any of the HDMI ports. Doesn't make much sense.

On a side note, I glad to see more 3D becoming available so I can see my 73833 use it's full potential! May have to pick up a pair of optimas or something, cause the color tint on blacks really is annoying. Although dropping the contrast and brightness has helped some. Meh.

Ah well, just glad to know the problem wasn't the TV, which I was so sure was the problem. Blurayless though, so my TV feels like it might as well be dead.


@Cleverland
Glad to hear your TV is up and running again!
Almost gave me a scare seeing as how we did the update around the same time

I'm having the same issues you are, about a year ago I was getting the screen flicker and found if I changed my PS3 settings to output 1080i it worked fine so I decided to live with it.

Now I decided to try out 3D so I updated my firmware on the 73-833 and while watching 3D I kept getting the screen flicker and a popping noise after the firmware upgrade. I finally tried hooking up to the front hdmi-4 and now everything works flawlessly with no flicker or popping noises. So it's definitely something with the rear hdmi ports and passing 1080P content.
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post #3350 of 3509 Old 01-23-2011, 05:16 AM
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Someone in another thread needed so I thought I would crosspost it here:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Kennison View Post

I need the Firmware update and have tried all the links in the forum and have not found a working link. Does anyone still have this update. If so please PM me. Any help would be appreciated...

Thanks,
Mark.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulls729 View Post



I Google'd that for you HERE, Google is a webpage that resides outside of AVS, can you believe that?!

Which brought me to this link here

Within that page I found the update file and instructions. I went ahead and put the file on a mirror to save you the trouble.

Mirror: MediaFire

Not only that I copied and pasted the installation instructions:

"get or borrow a USB thumb drive to put the files onto. The drive should be formatted as FAT(32) filesystem. If you aren't sure, just copy the contents off your favorite thumb drive, and reformat it as FAT. You can easily re-format and copy your files back onto it after you're done (in 4 minutes from now).

It doesn't matter what your thumb drive's volume name is -- I named mine WD73833-903 and it worked fine.

Next, unzip the file you downloaded above onto the top level of the thumb drive. (In other words, either copy the ZIP file on the thumb drive and deflate it in-place, or deflate it on your computer's hard drive in a folder and then drag/copy the contents of that folder to the top level of the thumb drive volume.)

Eject the thumb drive gracefully from your computer, but do not plug it into the TV yet. The TV must be powered off before you plug it in. (It turns out the TV looks for new firmware on the USB port only during its power-up cycle, read on.)

Next, unplug the TV from the wall (not kidding; just turning it off won't work). If you want to gracefully shut the TV down, that's fine, wait until it's completely powered off before unplugging it. Just whatever you do, don't plug the thumb drive into the USB port until you've unplugged the TV from the power outlet.

With the TV unplugged, put the thumb drive you copied the files onto above into the front USB port (just inside the door on the front of the TV where the other front-loading ports and controls are).

Plug the TV back in (but do not turn it on). Immediately, because the thumb drive is plugged in, you'll see the timer light start flashing rapidly. This indicates that the thumb drive was successfully mounted and that the TV is applying the firmware update automatically (you don't have to do anything else, just wait). Note: if you plug the TV in and the timer light doesn't start flashing within a few seconds, check that you correctly pushed the thumb drive all the way into the USB port and then unplug and re-plug in to the power.

Wait patiently for approximately 3 minutes -- you'll get no feedback aside from the flashing timer light (and if your USB thumb drive has a light, you may see the light flickering meaning that it's being read).

Once the firmware upgrade is installed, the TV will power up automatically (you do not have to turn it on, it will just come on).

At this point, you'll have 9.03 assuming all went correctly. You can confirm this once the TV is warmed up, by clicking menu on the remote, and looking in the upper right side; it should say 9.03.

At this point you should no longer see the blue screen when you are using the 3D adaptor. Getting it to actually work is a whole separate issue, not covered here. This is just for updating the firmware. Good luck with actually enjoying 3D from Playstation III, DirecTV HR21 and above, and other non-checkerboard sources.

Please help out your fellow 73833 owners -- unlike all the folks in the past who've just posted that they got it working without saying how or providing the damned zip file (!!) -- please actually link to this post if it worked for you, and to the corresponding ZIP file, so we can get the word out. Mitsubishi should have put these instructions online long ago, and should have included this and a warning about the need to upgrade the TV's firmware in their compatibility information for the 3D adaptor. It's hard to understand why they didn't, since it's so easy to do this if they just gave you a simple download. So please help me help everyone like me and post the link to this everywhere you can. If Mitsubishi is unhappy about that, I'm sorry for them."

/Sarcasm

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post #3351 of 3509 Old 01-23-2011, 06:37 AM
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Someone in another thread needed so I thought I would crosspost it here:

I followed instructions to update to 9.03 Firmware two times and it didn't work for me.
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post #3352 of 3509 Old 01-23-2011, 09:00 AM
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Quote:

Even though I didn't get any replies on this, I thought I would post the fix.

The lenticular screen had popped out of the channel in the center of the left side, thus causing the focus to be out. Popped it back in and it looks great again. I was able to perform all of this work myself, leaning on eletromechanical experience from my job. How did it get popped out? I can laugh now but was pretty upset before it was fixed...

When performing this work, I also noticed that the screen appears to be slightly tall for the bezel. This is causing a small gradual bubble over the bottom 1/4 of the screen. I'm thinking that trimming an 1/8" off the screen would flatten this out and eliminate another problem. There is a dropoff in resolution in this area when using PC input (text is slightly fuzzy). It's not really noticable with blu-ray, cable, etc. I'm hesitiant to perform such a modification...

Would be intersting to hear from anyone who using the screen for PC input, if the resolution is great across the full screen?

BTW, I use it for 3D gaming with the NVIDIA 3DVision. We recently watched Resident Evil and Avatar in 3D, no converter needed ("just" the $300 for the 3DVision kit and an extra pair, a blu-ray drive for your PC, and graphics card that can handle it)!
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post #3353 of 3509 Old 01-23-2011, 09:01 AM
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I followed instructions to update to 9.03 Firmware two times and it didn't work for me.

Why don't you call Mits to get the firmware?
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post #3354 of 3509 Old 01-29-2011, 01:44 PM - Thread Starter
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I've had an issue where my 73833 will make a clicking sound and then the timer green light will blink on and off for a few seconds. The DM and EZP modules were replaced and then after 12 - 18 months it started doing it all over again. Does anyone know how to check for an error code on the WD-73833? This second time around I wasn't going to call Mitsubishi but just wait and see if the TV stops working all together. Maybe this click and green timer light blinking is just telling me to replace the lamp?

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post #3355 of 3509 Old 01-31-2011, 10:36 PM
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Why don't you call Mits to get the firmware?

Same here. I'm at version 9.00 right now.
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post #3356 of 3509 Old 02-01-2011, 07:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lujan View Post

I've had an issue where my 73833 will make a clicking sound and then the timer green light will blink on and off for a few seconds. The DM and EZP modules were replaced and then after 12 - 18 months it started doing it all over again. Does anyone know how to check for an error code on the WD-73833? This second time around I wasn't going to call Mitsubishi but just wait and see if the TV stops working all together. Maybe this click and green timer light blinking is just telling me to replace the lamp?

I guess there are no TV technicians that read this forum as I've had no response?

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post #3357 of 3509 Old 02-02-2011, 12:55 PM
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Not a lot of people using this particular thread lately. But I do check it every once in a while...

After you experience a problem: Open the drawer center bottom of TV and press "Input" and "Menu" at the same time and hold for about 5 seconds. One of the lights on the front right side of TV will flash error code. You count the flashes between pauses to get the correct error code.. Hope this helps....
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post #3358 of 3509 Old 02-02-2011, 04:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleverland View Post

Not a lot of people using this particular thread lately. But I do check it every once in a while...

After you experience a problem: Open the drawer center bottom of TV and press "Input" and "Menu" at the same time and hold for about 5 seconds. One of the lights on the front right side of TV will flash error code. You count the flashes between pauses to get the correct error code.. Hope this helps....

Thanks, but once I get the error code is there a manual that tells us what it is or do I have to call Mitsubishi?

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post #3359 of 3509 Old 02-03-2011, 12:24 PM
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Does this upgrade work with the wd65833?
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post #3360 of 3509 Old 02-03-2011, 12:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleverland View Post
Not a lot of people using this particular thread lately. But I do check it every once in a while...

After you experience a problem: Open the drawer center bottom of TV and press "Input" and "Menu" at the same time and hold for about 5 seconds. One of the lights on the front right side of TV will flash error code. You count the flashes between pauses to get the correct error code.. Hope this helps....
It flashes 3 times then pauses, then flashes 3 times, etc. so I guess the error code is 3?

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