Official Mitsubishi WD XX833 Owners Thread - Page 117 - AVS Forum
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post #3481 of 3509 Old 11-27-2012, 03:02 PM
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Needing to replace a lamp with in a reasonable length of use is not considered a hiccup. This would be normal maintaince. Just like lamps and blubs in your home eventually will need replacements. 3000 hours is a little short but not really excessively so. I hear more about an average in the 5000 hour range. If this is accurate, it means 1/2 of the lamps fail before 5000 and 1/2 fail after.
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post #3482 of 3509 Old 12-02-2012, 04:19 PM
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Is there an explanation as to why I can't seem to change the keystone geometry for my HDMI input? The option is greyed out.
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post #3483 of 3509 Old 01-05-2013, 06:51 AM
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Has anyone experienced a problem where some of the controls on the remote either don't change settings on the set or work intermittently? I can't figure out if I have a problem with the remote or the TV receiving the commands, although I can use another remote to make changes. Yes, I changed batteries. Thanks.
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post #3484 of 3509 Old 01-06-2013, 07:43 PM
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I recently noticed the picture on my Mit 65833 was getting dimmer. I did some research and found what I'm sure you all already know, I guess that is what the bulbs do at the end of their lives. I've had this TV since December of 2007 so I have no complaints about the bulb life. In fact, other than the original calibration, I haven't done a thing to the TV. I plan to replace the bulb myself, but wonder if there aren't other maintenance items that should be done at this time?
I know that in the past when I had the lenses cleaned on my old Sony XBR rear projection it really brought the picture to life. Is there any cleaning or maintenance i should be considering at this time?
Should I have the TV calibrated again with the new bulb?
Also, any suggestions on replacement bulb? I don't mind paying a little more for peace of mind. Thanks for any suggestions. Steve.
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post #3485 of 3509 Old 01-07-2013, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simi-Steve View Post

I recently noticed the picture on my Mit 65833 was getting dimmer. I did some research and found what I'm sure you all already know, I guess that is what the bulbs do at the end of their lives. I've had this TV since December of 2007 so I have no complaints about the bulb life. In fact, other than the original calibration, I haven't done a thing to the TV. I plan to replace the bulb myself, but wonder if there aren't other maintenance items that should be done at this time?
I know that in the past when I had the lenses cleaned on my old Sony XBR rear projection it really brought the picture to life. Is there any cleaning or maintenance i should be considering at this time?
Should I have the TV calibrated again with the new bulb?
Also, any suggestions on replacement bulb? I don't mind paying a little more for peace of mind. Thanks for any suggestions. Steve.

From a post of mine over in another thread:

"I've had good results from Dynamic Lamps on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/shops/dynamiclamps

Another poster here spoke very highly of Nio on eBay and they have high ratings: http://stores.ebay.com/neilampsandelectronics

In both cases you will find they sell clearly advertised-as-such Philips lamps, or Osram, as well as the cheaper Chinese no-name knockoffs. That is okay as long as they are clear with you what item you are getting and they ship that item.

In dealing with other sellers, beware of the term 'OEM equivalent', which does NOT mean 'OEM'. OEM-equivalent is a wishy-washy meaningless term. Another clue is the price, you will not get a genuine Philips or Osram bare lamp for less than $50.

Bare lamps might come with the pigtails and connector, or not. If the connector in your housing is in bad shape you should go for the housing + lamp."
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post #3486 of 3509 Old 01-10-2013, 09:25 PM
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Thanks Chuck, I ended up getting an Osram bulb and housing from Lamp Source. Could have paid less but feel the piece of mind of using the bulb Mitsubishi recommends and Lamp Sources warranty is well worth it. I plan on installing the bulb this weekend. We'll see how that goes. I'm still wondering about calibration and maintenance. Thanks, Steve.
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post #3487 of 3509 Old 01-11-2013, 10:19 AM
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Anyone interested in a 915P061010 Lamp Assy direct from Mitsubishi (a spare that I received for my WD-73833 at the time of purchase) should PM me with a best offer.  I was planning to E-Bay it but thought I would give AVS members looking for original OEM parts first crack.

 

EDIT:  Replacement lamp has been sold.  I'm entertaining chopping this baby up if anyone is looking for some spare parts?  I noticed that ShopJimmy is now selling the replacement DMD chip for $159 (wish they had it a year ago when the ants started marching in my screen!).  If anyone is interested in any components (e.g. the optical engine, DMD chip, PWB power supply board x2 or a what I believe to be the issue with my tv which is a defective PWB Main board) for spare parts then just PM me.  It will be going on Craigslist soon (Cleveland, OH area) in case anyone is interested in buying the whole TV for a modest amount?  If you can find the PWB main board anywhere or convince Mits to sell it to you (last price on ShopJimmy was around $150) then it's easy to replace and the DMD chip is only a year old.  I went a different upgrade path and no longer have space for the tv...great pic while it lasted though and my other TV is a Kuro.

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post #3488 of 3509 Old 03-26-2013, 07:58 PM
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Well. I just got my fist white dot today right in the MIDDLE of the picture. frown.gif I've ordered the DMD for $159 at ShopJimmy and will do a thorough cleaning while I'm at it. I have just over 10300 hours on my set ( WD-65833 ) and just purchased my 3rd lamp at 9800 hours. Hopefully I can get another 3 or 4 years out of it before I am forced to buy a crappy LCD.

UPDATE:

Finally got the DMD. It took me about 90 minutes to install since I took a lot of time to clean the dust off the stuff I can't get to with the set assembled. Dust wasn't too bad on the DMD heatsink and Sirocco fan considering I never touched those until now -- 5 years later. My geometry was a little off ( about 1/8" tilt ) but was easy to fix in the geometry menu. The picture pretty-much looks brand new. I had 10467 hours on the set by the time I changed the DMD.

My white dots had grown to 5 and I also had a black dot too.

HD-DVD = 94
Blu-Ray = 120 ( 24 Warner red2blu )
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post #3489 of 3509 Old 04-12-2013, 06:47 PM
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Hello All,

I know this is an 833 thread but I'm hoping one of you can help me out. I'm trying to check the hours on my 57831 and am having a hard time finding the info in the service menu. I checked it before but can't seem to find it once I'm in the menu.
Thanks in advance for any assistance!! smile.gif

-Jeff
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post #3490 of 3509 Old 04-12-2013, 06:57 PM
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Press MENU-2-4-7-0 on the remote. Bulb hours will be shown in the lower left corner of the screen.

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post #3491 of 3509 Old 04-12-2013, 07:20 PM
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Beautiful. Thanks Amadeus!!!
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post #3492 of 3509 Old 09-06-2013, 10:02 PM
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I haven't posted in a bit. My TV 65833 was running fairly well after the DMD chip swap. A few days ago it came down with the Blinking Green Light of Death. Which is the name of its disease I found after Googling the symptoms. I give up. A Sharp 70LE650U gets delivered tomorrow. It was fun while it lasted, it missed being lemoned under the BB EW by a few months. This was the final straw. It didn't even last 6 years. See you all in the Sharp threads.

Joe in West Los Angeles, CA
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post #3493 of 3509 Old 11-02-2013, 04:19 AM
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New problem. I replaced the light engine about 6 months ago. Now (just started) the screen will go blank every minute or so, stay blank for a few seconds and then come back. Have tried multiple cables and inputs. No flashing green error lights. Just keeps going blank and coming back.

Could this be a bulb? Trying to decide if I should dump this or try to fix.
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post #3494 of 3509 Old 11-02-2013, 06:21 AM
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@pwbaker: just my $.02 but even if you've got a 73" like I had, I'd dump it now for a +60" Panny plasma as I feel this is the closest thing in PQ to a DLP currently available at a reasonable price and this could be the last year to pick one up. LCD and LED motion artifacts and less blacks is what turns me off so if that doesn't bother you then more options are out there to get you a larger pic. 4k would be great but unless you don't mind paying the premium for being an early adopter (and still dealing with some of the same issues albeit to a smaller extent), I say get a 65ST60 or VT60 and put the Mits out of its misery. As far as your problem goes, the main reason to abandon ship now is the likelihood of having another issue and the availability of parts not related to the DMD chip. Mine needs a new main board and good luck finding one of those in stock at a reasonable price.
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post #3495 of 3509 Old 11-02-2013, 09:44 AM
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Thanks. Iw was hoping to buy when I wanted to instead of having to. The 4k looks nice but pricey.

I will have to watch an LED and see how much the artifacts bother me.
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post #3496 of 3509 Old 11-02-2013, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwbaker View Post

New problem. I replaced the light engine about 6 months ago. Now (just started) the screen will go blank every minute or so, stay blank for a few seconds and then come back. Have tried multiple cables and inputs. No flashing green error lights. Just keeps going blank and coming back.

Could this be a bulb? Trying to decide if I should dump this or try to fix.

Get in the back at some place where you can see stray light from the lamp, and see if the lamp is actually going out. If it is, your lamp likely needs replacement.

There are two factors in lighting a lamp, the ability to fire it with ~3-5KVAC, and the ability to sustain the arc once fired with ~120VAC. If the latter is failing you might see what you are seeing.
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post #3497 of 3509 Old 11-03-2013, 04:41 AM
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Replaced the lamp, no joy. Does the exact same thing.

I will look in back next to see if lamp is going in and out,
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post #3498 of 3509 Old 11-03-2013, 06:27 AM
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@pwbaker: if it turns out you need a power supply board then pm me before you buy one online. I've got two and would be willing to part with one very cheap.
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post #3499 of 3509 Old 11-03-2013, 08:30 AM
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Thanks appreciate that.

So, here is the deal. I put a smaller LCD tv in font of the mits to watch temporarily. Unplugged the mits over night. This am plugged in back in to a different plug on the strip and it is not blinking out anymore.

It is working great. Don't know if the surge protector has a problem or the plug but ill see today.. If it is the power board I will pm you for sure.

Darn the 4k I looked at yesterday looked pretty sweet. I hope this sets hangs in while those prices come down.

thanks to everyone for their help so far.

Will let you all know how it goes.
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post #3500 of 3509 Old 11-29-2013, 04:30 AM
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I know this thread is heading in the direction of the dinosaurs but I thought I better ask. I bought my 65833 a few years back mainly for the firewire connections and the assortment of inputs. It has worked flawlessly for for 7 years or so until now. Just when the extended warranty has ran out. A couple weeks ago I got a couple white dots. Then a few more. THEN....I booted up the set and it looks like a blizzard of black dots. Yesterday, rather than eating turkey, I removed the screen and tried to find some dust inside. Very little, cleaned everything I could. Put it back together and still same old, same old. I really like this set. I use the firewire recorders nearly every day, it is the reason why I bought the previous years model, than the current one back then.

So, is it time to start looking for a new set? And secondly, is there anything out there that utilizes firewire? Thanks, BearSIZE]
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post #3501 of 3509 Old 11-29-2013, 04:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZBear View Post

I know this thread is heading in the direction of the dinosaurs but I thought I better ask. I bought my 65833 a few years back mainly for the firewire connections and the assortment of inputs. It has worked flawlessly for for 7 years or so until now. Just when the extended warranty has ran out. A couple weeks ago I got a couple white dots. Then a few more. THEN....I booted up the set and it looks like a blizzard of black dots. Yesterday, rather than eating turkey, I removed the screen and tried to find some dust inside. Very little, cleaned everything I could. Put it back together and still same old, same old. I really like this set. I use the firewire recorders nearly every day, it is the reason why I bought the previous years model, than the current one back then.

So, is it time to start looking for a new set? And secondly, is there anything out there that utilizes firewire? Thanks, BearSIZE]

You need a new DMD chip. Check Shopjimmy.com
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post #3502 of 3509 Old 11-29-2013, 05:38 AM
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Hi ZBear,

 

I bought 73" Diamond set back in 2008 for the Firewire port thinking of buying DVHS VCR to record in HD, but never bought one. Firewire port was used only once when I tested it with Comcast HD-DVR. It worked, but it didn't display overlays and menu from cable box via Firewire, so I used HDMI.

 

I went different route for HD recording. I bought Hauppauge HD-PVR 1212 external box to use with HTPC. Then I bought Hauppauge Colossus HD-PVR internal card.

 

I also had 5 year extended warranty (which ended this August) with unlimited lamp replacement. During warranty I had lamp replaced three times, last one in July this year. And I saved previous lamp just in case. I also updated firmware from USB flash drive which I got from Mitsubishi. TV is working great.

 

If you use firewire recorders on a daily basis I would fix the TV or find another set with firewire on Craigslist.

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post #3503 of 3509 Old 12-26-2013, 02:09 PM
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Turned on today, and it just turns off after about 30 seconds. No picture ever shows, but I can hear something trying to "fire" in the back it seems. Can I just assume it's the bulb? TV is 5 years old this next Feb. I believe.

EDIT:
Pulled the bulb, and quite honestly it looks fine. The noise I'm hearing from the back sounds like a (quiet) jet engine when it is slowing down. So, is it worse than a bulb?

EDIT 2:
So, after being stupid, and not realizing there was a "lamp" LED on the FP, I found the manual and found that it's showing it's out. Hopefully that's all it is, as it doesn't visually look bad but I'm not showing other signs indicating anything else.

I do have a question though. I was pretty dusty behind the cover. Is compressed air ok to blow in there to clean it out?
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post #3504 of 3509 Old 12-26-2013, 04:20 PM
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NO. Use a vacuum.

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
 

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post #3505 of 3509 Old 12-27-2013, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

NO. Use a vacuum.
thank you. Will give that a shot when the new lamp comes in.
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post #3506 of 3509 Old 01-08-2014, 02:15 AM
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I have a 65833 that I use the firewire connected DVR nearly daily. There is a guy on Craig's List that has a 65638 with low miles and he has been dropping the price daily. It does not have firewire. I was wondering if I could swap the connection chassis out of a unit with firewire for the one that doesn't? I was thinking on making the guy a pretty low offer for a backup unit. Thanks, Bear
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post #3507 of 3509 Old 01-10-2014, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZBear View Post

I have a 65833 that I use the firewire connected DVR nearly daily. There is a guy on Craig's List that has a 65638 with low miles and he has been dropping the price daily. It does not have firewire. I was wondering if I could swap the connection chassis out of a unit with firewire for the one that doesn't? I was thinking on making the guy a pretty low offer for a backup unit. Thanks, Bear

It depends on the internal design of both sets. Probably not, but a tech with access to both
service manuals -- or, at least, the schematics -- should be able to give you a more definitive
answer. OTOH, the DVR probably has other connection options; can it be connected to the
new set using one of those?

-- Ron
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post #3508 of 3509 Old 01-12-2014, 01:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ron12n View Post

It depends on the internal design of both sets. Probably not, but a tech with access to both
service manuals -- or, at least, the schematics -- should be able to give you a more definitive
answer. OTOH, the DVR probably has other connection options; can it be connected to the
new set using one of those?

-- Ron
Ron. I'm guessing by your reply that you are unfamiliar with the firewire DVRs. That and the split picture is why I bought this particular model. The DVRs were made under a few different names I think by Indigita. I have boxes labels Toshiba, RCA, as well as Indigita. The only option is to use them with a firewire enabled set and they interface with the set. Here is a thread within this forum if you would choose to become enlightened:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/602499/indigita-avhd-ieee-1394-hard-disc-drive
Have a good day, Bear
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post #3509 of 3509 Old 01-15-2014, 10:07 AM
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> Ron. I'm guessing by your reply that you are unfamiliar with the firewire DVRs.

Quite true. I am familiar with firewire, as well as the WD-xx8333, so the first part
of my answer does stand: there is no guaranty that the internal interface circuits of the
two TVs are the same or even similar. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

-- Ron
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