Official Mitsubishi WD XX833 Owners Thread - Page 14 - AVS Forum
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post #391 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upinsmoke View Post

just an heads up on service menu level changes and ISF calibration.

This service will make your warranty NULL and VOID. Contact your manufacturer on this matter.

Personally I'm only sticking with regular menu accessible corrections to PQ.

If so, then anyone who gets their set ISF calibrated would be voiding their warranty.

What proof do you have of this assertion?

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post #392 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 09:47 AM
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I spent hours last night with HFCR, Get Gray, and my Spyder II (I know I know) and here is where I am at so far. They actually are starting to grow on me. Perfect Color and Perfect Tint are a must calibration.

Calibration Settings:

Picture Mode: Natural
Contrast: 59
Brightness: 32
Color: 31
Tint: 31
Sharpness: 24
Color Temperature: Low
Deep Field: Off
All Globals: Off

Perfect Color

Magenta: 22
Red: 31
Yellow: 31
Green: 32
Cyan: 23
Blue: 29

Perfect Tint

Magenta: 25
Red: 27
Yellow: 33
Green: 38
Cyan: 30
Blue: 23
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post #393 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 09:48 AM
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His proof is that he reportedly asked a CS rep. I would expect them to say that it would void the warranty because the want to keep people out of the service menu. I have been doing warranty work (including Mitsubishi) for many years and the issue of whether something gets covered or not is a little more complex than he suggests. In general there is no reason to be concerned unless you cause a problem. I discuss the matter in more detail here:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...html#post51050

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

Need electronics repair? A great place to start looking for a shop in your area: http://www.tvrepairpros.com/
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post #394 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZHTGeek View Post

I spent hours last night with HFCR, Get Gray, and my Spyder II (I know I know) and here is where I am at so far. They actually are starting to grow on me. Perfect Color and Perfect Tint are a must calibration.

Calibration Settings:

Picture Mode: Natural
Contrast: 59
Brightness: 32
Color: 31
Tint: 31
Sharpness: 24
Color Temperature: Low
Deep Field: Off
All Globals: Off

Perfect Color

Magenta: 22
Red: 31
Yellow: 31
Green: 32
Cyan: 23
Blue: 29

Perfect Tint

Magenta: 25
Red: 27
Yellow: 33
Green: 38
Cyan: 30
Blue: 23

Did you adjust the gray scale before these settings? Without knowing that the gray scale is correct, these settings are mostly meaningless.

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

Need electronics repair? A great place to start looking for a shop in your area: http://www.tvrepairpros.com/
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post #395 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lcaillo View Post

Did you adjust the gray scale before these settings? Without knowing that the gray scale is correct, these settings are mostly meaningless.

These settings were all set in the User Menu and are meant for more of a idea of what I saw and adjusted with a consumer level Colorimeter and the CIE chart on HFCR. Nothing was changed in the Service Menu as that is more advanced then I or most people are willing to go into at this time. Have to leave a little mystery for the ISF guys. If someone is looking for "Perfect" settings they should bring in a ISF Calibrator.
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post #396 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazebostealer View Post

I got my 73" this tuesday. I am liking it quite a bit.

a couple items that are a bit annoying.
  • The netcommand is a bit limited. It controls my avr volume really slow, my old tv did this too, maybe its something with my reciever.
    Netcommand will not power on my xbox 360 properly.
    It also seems to be limited to 4 avr inputs.
  • slow power up(i guess all dlps are like this not a big deal)
  • my mistubishi logo fell off! some super glue fixed that, but what the hell?
  • 73" doesnt seem all that much bigger than my 65" I figured the difference would seem more.
overall its great, and i love how it freed up so much space in my living room compared to my old 65 crt with 2 component racks.

a poor quality pic but you get the idea

I see you have your xbox 360 and HD player in your cabinet; that is the same way I had mine and my HD Player over-heated. The light turned read and it would not operate. I had to take it out of the cabinet and let it cool down for a while; it was really hot. It works now.

Just a heads up!

Semper Fi,

Bob
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post #397 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erikhustad View Post

I've been reading this thread for awhile and there seems to be a strong consensus that the 120 hz does have an appreciable impact on gaming.

I'm not sure Madden 08 is the best game to test it with, though. There isn't a ton of fast motion that could produce motion blur. Better to try it with Halo 2 (or, soon, Halo 3!) or another incredibly fast-paced game with tons of crap coming at you.

I just got my 65833 delivered this morning but the driver was late so I didn't even have time to get it out of the box before I had to head to work. I'll hook it up tonight and throw in the craziest game I have and see if I can detect a difference with 120 hz.

Thanks for the advice Erik; I will have to try that out and report back if I notice any difference.

Semper Fi,

Bob
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post #398 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by jaynkim View Post

gazebostealer, can you tell me what the manufacture and model of your tv/audio stand is.I have been looking for something just like that for when I save up enough for this TV. That looks great cause the doors swing open instead of slide. All the cabinets I have seen have sliding doors which would cover up the center channel when they are open and with a 360 running having a closed up area is not a good idea. All of you 360 guys know what I mean.

My doors where closed when my HD overheated. I can't believe I didn't even think to leave the door open; what a dumb #$*

Semper Fi,

Bob
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post #399 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 10:59 AM
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Got my 65833 delivered yesterday and hooked up last night. One thing I really don't like right off the bad is the auto-detection of inputs. I'd rather just specify which inputs I want active and leave it that way, with the Mitsu never double-checking my settings. Is there any way to disable the auto-detection?

My real question, though, is two-fold:

1) I notice when I turn on my PS3, receiver, and TV at the same time the TV comes on but the HDMI input isn't available. I think this may be because the receiver is taking an extra moment to detect the PS3, initialize that connection, and start sending any signal to the TV, and since the TV is set to that crappy auto-detect for the input it thinks "Oh, there's nothing plugged in here - guess I'll just make it unavailable."

Is this the way it works? Do I need to turn the PS3 and the receiver on first, make sure those are going, and THEN turn the TV on?

2) I have a PC which I used to use via DVI with my old DLP set. The Mitsu doesn't have DVI, so I bought a DVI-to-HDMI cable. DVI end in the PC, HDMI in the Mitsu. I get no picture though. I know the PC's ok, so what could be going on here? I've heard of some of the HD-DVD and Blu-Ray players not allowing DVI-to-HDMI for HDCP reasons, but that shouldn't have anything to do with my PC. Could there be another reason I'm not getting a picture?

Thanks for the help guys. I'm sure there'll be a frustrating ramping up period here, but I can tell already the set was a very smart purchase.

Oh, and as regards fan noise: a somewhat high-pitched whine was easily detectable when I first set it up, even when sitting in front of the TV on the other side of the room, but on subsequent start-ups of the TV it's gone away. Guess (in my case) you just have to break it in a little bit.
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post #400 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 11:16 AM
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Question on Netcommand, I have it controlling my AV reciever pretty well but on the learn screen for the input selection it won't "hold" my choices, it always wants to default back to "AudioOut". The triangles move but as soon as I leave that screen it defaults back
Anyone seen this?
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post #401 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 11:45 AM
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Yea that 360 and player get really hot with the doors closed. I have been running it with the doors open and it still seems really warm so i decided to cut some holes in the back of my stand. hopefully that will work for me. I guess if it comes to it i could mount some quiet pc case fans on the stand to pull out the hot air.


disalex, my netcommand was doing the same thing, I just reporgrammed the avr inputs and it started working again.
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post #402 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZHTGeek View Post

These settings were all set in the User Menu and are meant for more of a idea of what I saw and adjusted with a consumer level Colorimeter and the CIE chart on HFCR. Nothing was changed in the Service Menu as that is more advanced then I or most people are willing to go into at this time. Have to leave a little mystery for the ISF guys. If someone is looking for "Perfect" settings they should bring in a ISF Calibrator.

What did you get for a white point measure?

ISF has little to do with it, though many of their trainees are great calibrators. The point is that if you don't get the gray scale correct first, it is virtualy impossible to make sense of the adjustments you listed. The service menu items that you need to do gray scale are well known form last years sets and while the service menus on the new sets lack some of the more difficult adjustments, the gain controls are very straightforward. If you are going to go to the trouble of getting a colorimeter and the software, you might as well do it right.

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

Need electronics repair? A great place to start looking for a shop in your area: http://www.tvrepairpros.com/
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post #403 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by lcaillo View Post

What did you get for a white point measure?

ISF has little to do with it, though many of their trainees are great calibrators. The point is that if you don't get the gray scale correct first, it is virtualy impossible to make sense of the adjustments you listed. The service menu items that you need to do gray scale are well known form last years sets and while the service menus on the new sets lack some of the more difficult adjustments, the gain controls are very straightforward. If you are going to go to the trouble of getting a colorimeter and the software, you might as well do it right.

Well this is the first attempt to calibrate a tv using anything outside of DVE so be patient. Unfortunately I am having issues reading anything other then rolling "Measures" on HCFR due to it throwing an error when I try to take a Measure... havent really had time to mess with it much but while the "Measure" was running I was able to adust the perfect color settings until each of the 6 points were as close to CIE reference as possible. This was good enough for me to give this TV another chance for the next week because I was seriously thinking about returning it before the 30days is up. I understand that Grayscale is important and that will be my next challange (hence beta in the title) but the colors were so far off I couldn't take it anymore. I am fully aware that I will need to redo the colors after the Grayscale is changed. The WAF has been withdrawn this weekend due to the constant "adjusting" during TV time last week so it will be awhile before I can dig into the service menu.

Here is a link to what I used to find the usual settings that were set to my liking I did back down the color to 31 due to the Red being way off the CIE chart. SpyderTV means I am using the acutal SpyderTV software.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post11607647
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post #404 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZHTGeek View Post

Latest Attempt

Brightness = 32 (GetGray and HD-DVE)
Contrast = 59 (Spyder TV)
Color = 36 (GetGray and HTGuy)
Tint = 31 (HD-DVE, Spyder TV, GetGray)
Picture Mode = Natural (Spyder TV)
Color Temp = Low (High is too blue but might try this again)
Sharpness = 24 (HD-DVE)
Globals = All off except 120hz
Deep = off
Perfect Color = default (need more time in here)
Perfect Tint = default (same as above)

Appreciate the info, keep it coming! What is the 120hz?
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post #405 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 03:09 PM
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I've tried the settings above and it's way too dark for my environment. I made some changes to it, but can't remember which input I did it with. This is my setup:



Here's a shot from Monday nights game. I believe these are the out of the box settings from D* via HDMI.


These are a few pics after calibrating my DVD video input using the THX Optimizer. The movie is playing on a standard DVD player (no conversion) and connected by component:


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post #406 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mikegaudiello View Post

Appreciate the info, keep it coming! What is the 120hz?


Thanks.

Heres the info on Mits about it. I don't know a lot about it but I am sure others on this board do.

"Mitsubishi's Smooth120Hz minimizes motion blur especially in fast moving action scenes."
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post #407 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by bguile View Post

I've tried the settings above and it's way too dark for my environment. I made some changes to it, but can't remember which input I did it with. This is my setup:

These are a few pics after calibrating my DVD video input using the THX Optimizer. The movie is playing on a standard DVD player (no conversion) and connected by component:

As with everything in life things are viewed differently by each person. To me personally Out of box the 73833 looks way too bright and blue. Going low and natural helps but then the red push starts to come out with an odd green tint. This is my first DLP (replacing a CRT HDTV, and still have two plasmas) and my biggest problem is I want this TV to be as accurate as my Elite 50" plasma or at least as close as possible (Thanks again D-Nice for the settings!). Course I do most of my viewing in the near dark and so was most of my calibration of this set.
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post #408 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 03:38 PM
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Can anyone comment about the off-center viewing angles. I'm wanting a 57833 but am concerned about the picture viewing from my other couch and chair that aren't centered with the tv.

Thanks.
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post #409 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZHTGeek View Post

As with everything in life things are viewed differently by each person. To me personally Out of box the 73833 looks way too bright and blue. Going low and natural helps but then the red push starts to come out with an odd green tint. This is my first DLP (replacing a CRT HDTV, and still have two plasmas) and my biggest problem is I want this TV to be as accurate as my Elite 50" plasma or at least as close as possible (Thanks again D-Nice for the settings!). Course I do most of my viewing in the near dark and so was most of my calibration of this set.

What are your current calibrations including Perfect Color & Tint?
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post #410 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 04:30 PM
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fellow 833 owners,

please help me, and guide me to a path to get the blue lights on the bottom of the front panel back on.

when i first turned the set on, the blue glow was on. however, i no longer have the lights. i do not know if while doing set up i deactivated a function, or did some other action. i went to the set up function again, and i see a "game" icon, but i cannot get it to highlight, even though i see something related to blue background.

looks like once again i need the great avs gang to help me out!
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post #411 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 04:37 PM
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The family has booted me from the TV but if I remember correctly its in the Menu-Video-Global Settings area. Last option.
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post #412 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikegaudiello View Post

What are your current calibrations including Perfect Color & Tint?

Little ways up on this thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post11631569
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post #413 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 05:56 PM
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How do you access the service menu? I really need to adjust the Low setting. Red and green are to harsh..
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post #414 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetPilot_Mike View Post

Can anyone comment about the off-center viewing angles. I'm wanting a 57833 but am concerned about the picture viewing from my other couch and chair that aren't centered with the tv.

Thanks.

I think the viewing angles are much better on this set than even the 831 sets. My TV is in a corner (90 degrees viewing angle) and I get a good picture from all sides at an 8' distance at eye level. Beyond 90 may be a different story. As always with this type of tv, being above or below eye level changes the view and I've seen it all ways. It's not the best in the other positions, but it's still viewable.
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post #415 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by els View Post

fellow 833 owners,

please help me, and guide me to a path to get the blue lights on the bottom of the front panel back on.

when i first turned the set on, the blue glow was on. however, i no longer have the lights. i do not know if while doing set up i deactivated a function, or did some other action. i went to the set up function again, and i see a "game" icon, but i cannot get it to highlight, even though i see something related to blue background.

looks like once again i need the great avs gang to help me out!

The blue glow is deactivated when you change your startup settings to what I think is low power. I'm not in front of my set now, but it's the option other than "fast start". I turned off the fast start option a while ago b/c I read a thread that said it shortened the bulb life and began wondering what happened to my blue light a couple minutes later. If it is true that the fast start shortens bulb life, I think it sucks that Mitsu would have the glow option dependant upon that setting.
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post #416 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seabass901 View Post

How do you access the service menu? I really need to adjust the Low setting. Red and green are to harsh..

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...56#post8606056

At the bottom of the first post.
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post #417 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 07:18 PM
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I was at the Best Buy in Orland Parl,IL. yesterday and got my first view of an 833. The 73833 was set up but did not have any signs on and no price, I assumed they just got it. If the picture was with out of the box settings, it looked really nice to me. Since this is one of the sets I'm considering , I'll stop in again soon when they have a price.
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post #418 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazebostealer View Post

Yea that 360 and player get really hot with the doors closed. I have been running it with the doors open and it still seems really warm so i decided to cut some holes in the back of my stand. hopefully that will work for me. I guess if it comes to it i could mount some quiet pc case fans on the stand to pull out the hot air.


disalex, my netcommand was doing the same thing, I just reporgrammed the avr inputs and it started working again.


I've reprogrammed it like 15 times now and no luck, anyone else have any other ideas?
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post #419 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 09:08 PM
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Does anyone have any advice regarding the problem I wrote about in this post?

I'm not so concerned with the PC right now, but the TV not retaining the HDMI input and being able to access it every time I turn the set on is really bugging me.

When I turn the TV on the only input I get is a component one (I do have something plugged into component 1). To get HDMI, I have to unplug the HDMI cable from whichever input it's connected to, then plug it into a different HDMI port. Then the TV will auto-sense it and I can use it. Until, that is, I turn off the TV again or turn off my receiver (which is where the HDMI connection is coming from). Then the HDMI input disappears from use, and even if I turn the receiver back on I get nothing.

This whole "Easy Connect" thing ain't so easy.
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post #420 of 3509 Old 09-15-2007, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erikhustad View Post

Does anyone have any advice regarding the problem I wrote about in this post?

I'm not so concerned with the PC right now, but the TV not retaining the HDMI input and being able to access it every time I turn the set on is really bugging me.

When I turn the TV on the only input I get is a component one (I do have something plugged into component 1). To get HDMI, I have to unplug the HDMI cable from whichever input it's connected to, then plug it into a different HDMI port. Then the TV will auto-sense it and I can use it. Until, that is, I turn off the TV again or turn off my receiver (which is where the HDMI connection is coming from). Then the HDMI input disappears from use, and even if I turn the receiver back on I get nothing.

This whole "Easy Connect" thing ain't so easy.

Quick update: tried taking my HDMI devices and plugging them all straight into the TV, then turning the TV on. It detected them all just fine. (If you're curious, I tried it with my PS3 and HD cable box). If I turn the TV off, plug everything back into the receiver, and then just have my one HDMI going out from the receiver to the TV, then turn the TV on, it doesn't detect it.

So then I have to unplug it, plug it into a different port, and finally it finds it. I noticed, too, it's producing a message like this as part of the Auto-Sense window: "HDMI switching via the A/V receiver is not supported. Please attach digital audio output cable to the television."

Is the TV really telling me that I'm forced to plug all of my HDMI devices straight into the TV and then have a coaxial output to the receiver?! How then would I be able to do multi-channel linear PCM from something like my PS3? (The answer is that I wouldn't.)

I refuse to believe that this TV can't handle one HDMI cable coming from the receiver and isn't capable of just letting the receiver do the switching. All the TV has to do is display a dumb image. Why is this so complicated?

I sure hope there's a firmware update to fix this Mitsu issue or I'm ready to send the set back. That's beyond ridiculous if I can't use my receiver for switching (the way any good home theatre setup ought to).
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