Official Mitsubishi WD XX833 Owners Thread - Page 22 - AVS Forum
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post #631 of 3510 Old 09-23-2007, 07:24 AM
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Finally got my wd-65833...A truly beautiful set...I had the lt-52133 but i had problems with it (compontent input didn't work in the back) so I decided on exchanging it for this one...Bigger screen and cheaper...I have a small viewing place so this thing looks huge...I'm glad I didn't get the 73"...

I'll be posting picks later as I stayed up until 2:30am setting everything up... Yes, I'm a geek...However, I was too tired to test if I plugged everything right so that's what I'm about to do...wish me luck...

Anywho, now here's my setup

TV: wd-65833
A/V Rec: ts-sr605 (I'll wait for the prices to come down b/f I get the 875)
Speakers: Old JBL sc135 (Next on my list)
DVD: PS3
CD: Old Panasonic 5 disc chaner (can't play burned CD's, yeah that's old)
Tivo: Series 2 (waiting xmas for tivo hd, but can't believe it can't work on DirecTv )

I retired my old Denon AVR 3300 now I have to figure what I'll do with it...I may just give it to my cousin as I'm tired and lazy to swap out my Yamaha in by bedroom...
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post #632 of 3510 Old 09-23-2007, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highdef wanabe View Post

I notice alot of the pics of peoples nice set ups have wood or tile flooring. how is the sound with this kind of flooring ? just seems that the sound would be all over the place. The reason I ask is I want to replace my flooring.

I am not sure what "all over the place" sounds like. Acoustic theory
suggests that the heavier the flooring, the higher its density and the
tighter the coupling to the speaker enclosures, the less colored will
the sound be.

As a result, my family room has a strip of flag stones across the
end of the room next to the fireplace. The A/V system, including
the speakers, sits on that strip (covering the fireplace, which I
never use). Speakers have spikes that tightly couple them to the
floor. Two equipment towers housing all equipment plus a 400 lb.
TV are coupled to the flooring by their sheer weight. I believe this
arrangement provides the best sonics possible in this location.

-- Ron
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post #633 of 3510 Old 09-23-2007, 08:23 AM
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Anyone that had a 2006 or 2007 model that used the DVI input for a PC that has this 2008 model comment on differences (if any) between the two regarding problems getting 1:1 pixel mapping?

Also, how is pincushing on this watching 4x3 material compared to last years model considering the slimmer cabinet?

.
.
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post #634 of 3510 Old 09-23-2007, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akrias View Post

Here is the important stuff. The only changes here were the energy savier setting. Takes too long to turn on the TV for my kids, so I leave it on fast power on or whatever. Also, the 734 dosn't have 120 hmz, so I took it upon myself to turn it on.

Despite the apparently ultra low contrast, it looks really good! Ps3 playing Planet Earth BD is jaw dropping. I checked snow scenes as well as night scenes, I am finally seeing the entire picture as it was meant to be seen.

Cept it's crooked.

Below you'll find the settings we found best for viewing the Mitsubishi WD-65734 in a completely dark room via the HDMI input with a 1080i source. Your settings may very depending on source, room conditions, and personal preference.
Video settings menu
Picture mode: Natural
Contrast: 24
Brightness: 25
Color: 31
Tint: 29
Sharpness: 31
Color Temp: Low
DeepField Imager: Off

PerfectColor menu
Magenta: 34
Red: 37
Yellow: 35
Green: 40
Cyan: 29
Blue: 30

PerfectTint menu
Magenta: 21
Red: 22
Yellow: 29
Green: 15
Cyan: 36
Blue: 30

Global menu
Video Noise: Off
Video mute: On
Film Mode: Auto
Sharp Edge: Off
Lamp Mode: Standard

Setup menu
Energy Mode: Low Power

I wonder why people keep posting their settings. If settings were
applicable to all sets, there wouldn't be a need for an adjustment
facility. The only reason such facitlity was engineerred into the
TVs is that each particular set needs its own particular settings,
that compensate for tolerances of the specific components in
that specific TV.

Copying settings from another set (let alone, of a different model),
is folly.

-- Ron
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post #635 of 3510 Old 09-23-2007, 08:40 AM
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Just had my WD-57833 delivered this week. Last night while watching dark scenes, I noticed a smudge possibly caused by a finger. I have called Crutchfield to set up an exchange, but after reading about cleanings covered under warranty, I'm wondering if should just have a tech come in and try to clean it first.
My question to you guys is: How much of a problem is cleaning the screen? My understanding is that there are different layers to the screen and that it is a hassle to remove them to get between the layers to clean them. Also, because it is brand new, I'm not sure I want a stranger opening the back of my television already.
I'm having the same geometric problem as everyone else. I'm also seeing the ray of light in the lower center of the screen when viewing in the dark (as someone else has already noted). However, this looks like possibly a normal mechanical thing. It is just too precise to be a smudge or a flaw. The good news is the TV is pretty quiet. That is the main reason I'm reluctant to return this one for another. I'm concerned about picking up one that makes alot of noise. Suggetions anyone?
Thanks!
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post #636 of 3510 Old 09-23-2007, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ron12n View Post

I wonder why people keep posting their settings. If settings were
applicable to all sets, there wouldn't be a need for an adjustment
facility. The only reason such facitlity was engineerred into the
TVs is that each particular set needs its own particular settings,
that compensate for tolerances of the specific components in
that specific TV.

Copying settings from another set (let alone, of a different model),
is folly.

-- Ron

Can you show me where someone mentioned copying settings? That's not the idea behind it. When you're ignorant about a certain practice on the forums, it's best to just ask why, instead of stating arguments for a position that doesn't exist.

"The dream never dies, just the dreamer."

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post #637 of 3510 Old 09-23-2007, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akrias View Post

Also...... I got a stand from Walt's TV on clearance....let's just say it was an offer I couldn't refuse. It is a 2 year old (I thihnk) stand for a 65" Mits DLP. It has a recessed top surface that fits the 73833's footprint flawlessly. If you talk to Steve over at Walt's, tell him that never quite satisfied Akrias with the 73833 mentioned an awesome stand. Who knows, maybe he has some more left.

Bottom line on this set is I enjoy it. Geometry, rainbows, ghosting, and all. I love it. I hope that it can be fixed up a bit, but I love it. I had contemplated selling it, even threw an ad up on the craigslist. When I got an email from someone wanting to buy it today, I looked across the room at my set and emailed the guy back, "sorry, the 73833 is no longer for sale."

I am the pickiest, most annoying customer in the world, of this I am fairly certain. That being said, despite all of the problems I am having with the set, I couldn't bring myself to sell it. Sure, it has problems, but the PQ is so damn stunning, I can easily turn a blind eye to its flaws. Don't get me wrong, I still have the techs coming out on Monday, but I think you'll all get the point.

Pictures tomorrow! Lots!

I think I can give you a run for that title! Add unluckiest to it and it's ME!

Joe in West Los Angeles, CA
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post #638 of 3510 Old 09-23-2007, 11:37 AM
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Steve, if he is worse than me, run. Run like the wind.
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post #639 of 3510 Old 09-23-2007, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawgfin View Post

Just had my WD-57833 delivered this week. Last night while watching dark scenes, I noticed a smudge possibly caused by a finger. I have called Crutchfield to set up an exchange, but after reading about cleanings covered under warranty, I'm wondering if should just have a tech come in and try to clean it first.
My question to you guys is: How much of a problem is cleaning the screen? My understanding is that there are different layers to the screen and that it is a hassle to remove them to get between the layers to clean them. Also, because it is brand new, I'm not sure I want a stranger opening the back of my television already.
I'm having the same geometric problem as everyone else. I'm also seeing the ray of light in the lower center of the screen when viewing in the dark (as someone else has already noted). However, this looks like possibly a normal mechanical thing. It is just too precise to be a smudge or a flaw. The good news is the TV is pretty quiet. That is the main reason I'm reluctant to return this one for another. I'm concerned about picking up one that makes alot of noise. Suggetions anyone?
Thanks!

IF there is a smudge on the inside of the screen it could be a simple fix.
If it is between the lenticular and fresnal, then there is a ton of screws to remove. Either way its just labor intensive and nothing technical.
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post #640 of 3510 Old 09-23-2007, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akrias View Post

Steve, if he is worse than me, run. Run like the wind.

Unfortunitely or fortunitely for Steve, my dealings are with Best Buy.
I have a long story told in the Sony xxXS955 thread.
Hopefully my Mitsubishi experience will be much happier. But given my luck...

Joe in West Los Angeles, CA
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post #641 of 3510 Old 09-23-2007, 04:33 PM
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It used to be that the mitsubishi remotes would allow you to place the remote in the custom install mode (eg hold "power" and depress "090") it would allow you to have all the dicrete inputs directly from the remote. Does anyone no how how to place this remote in to this mode to teach the discrete inputs into my theatermaster mx500?
Thanks for any assistance

Cheers,
Don O
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post #642 of 3510 Old 09-23-2007, 05:15 PM
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Does anyone know what the contrast ratio is for the 65833? I cannot find this spec anywhere!

Thanks
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post #643 of 3510 Old 09-23-2007, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevem123 View Post

Does anyone know what the contrast ratio is for the 65833? I cannot find this spec anywhere!

Contrast ratios are generally worthless since little is disclosed in how they are measured. I thought I've read that Mitsu doesn't release them, but I could be wrong.
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post #644 of 3510 Old 09-23-2007, 07:48 PM
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what is the best coaxial cable u can buy for under $250.00? i just got my 65833 & it looks great on the xbox 360 but directv is coming to install on the 1st. i've heard monster's or audioquest's top cable is a good way to go. any and all suggestions welcome...
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post #645 of 3510 Old 09-23-2007, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by semi-newbie View Post

what is the best coaxial cable u can buy for under $250.00? i just got my 65833 & it looks great on the xbox 360 but directv is coming to install on the 1st. i've heard monster's or audioquest's top cable is a good way to go. any and all suggestions welcome...

For your sat box you should go HDMI. A good HDMI cable will cost you about $26
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post #646 of 3510 Old 09-23-2007, 09:14 PM
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Monster?

Get any cable you want from monoprice or bluejeans.

"The dream never dies, just the dreamer."

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post #647 of 3510 Old 09-23-2007, 10:05 PM
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i already know about hdmi. i need to know what the best coaxial cable is for the coaxial outlet coming directly out of the wall for the directv. i've already got an hdmi for the directv hd-dvr box. i've heard the top-grade audioquest or monster is a good choice. any and all suggestions welcome for an awesome coaxial w/ a good review/reputation!
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post #648 of 3510 Old 09-23-2007, 10:09 PM
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i have the same problem on lighter scenes. it's a dark smudge like a fingerprint, but it's not there when it's powered off. it's under warranty though. let me know what u find out...
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post #649 of 3510 Old 09-24-2007, 03:49 AM
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I just wanted to post after reading many posts related to problems. I have had my 65833 for a little over a week now and am thrilled with it. I have none of the issues I have been reading about on this forum. The picture is absolutely stunning. I have no other way top describe it. I have looked around for quite a while till I finally settled on this set. I have many friends who have Plasma's and LCD's. None of the sets I have seen are any better than the picture on this set. I just wanted to add my 2 cents. (For whatever it's worth....)
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post #650 of 3510 Old 09-24-2007, 04:11 AM
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Thanks Trapper John for your insight on working on the screen. I live in a rather rural area, and generally folks around here aren't on the cutting edge of technology-even when they are called "Techs."
Now for question #2: Anybody out there get a set that has decent geometry right out of the box? Pincushioning is quite noticeable on both sides of my set during 4:3 viewing, but it is especially bad on the right side. As a result, the bottom corner on that side juts out so far it is ridiculous. I hate to think about what it is probably doing to the picture quality as a whole.
Since I already have a smudge issue, I'm trying to decide on whether or not to do an exchange and try again, or try to make service menu adjustments and live with it. Theres no sense in returning it if I'm just going to get another set that is doing pretty much the same thing.
BTW, I also have the mysterious yellowish ghost light that akrias mentions in his extensive analysis of his set. It is only visible when changing channels or when screen is dark and set is on. I'm guessing this is a normal operation kind of thing. Anyone with knowledge about how things work in these sets have any suggestions as to what might be causing this? Thanks everyone!
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post #651 of 3510 Old 09-24-2007, 04:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by semi-newbie View Post

i already know about hdmi. i need to know what the best coaxial cable is for the coaxial outlet coming directly out of the wall for the directv. i've already got an hdmi for the directv hd-dvr box. i've heard the top-grade audioquest or monster is a good choice. any and all suggestions welcome for an awesome coaxial w/ a good review/reputation!

I would recommend any RG-6 available from Lowes or Home Depot. Cost, $10. If you want to step up to the quad shield, cost would be maybe $20. Chances are the installer will use his own cable. Cost, free, also a good choice. Monster Cable is never a good choice.
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post #652 of 3510 Old 09-24-2007, 04:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Anyone that had a 2006 or 2007 model that used the DVI input for a PC that has this 2008 model comment on differences (if any) between the two regarding problems getting 1:1 pixel mapping?

Also, how is pincushing on this watching 4x3 material compared to last years model considering the slimmer cabinet?

Anyone??

.
.
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post #653 of 3510 Old 09-24-2007, 05:46 AM
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I reported earlier that the first day or two I had the humming noise coming from the back of the set (fan or ballast?)... well it seems that now the noise has stopped.
I have tried the setting posted by AZHTGeek for now and I am happy with them for now; that is until I decide if I want to have the set calibrated.
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post #654 of 3510 Old 09-24-2007, 07:57 AM
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hey there hawg - in response to your question about geometry mine was pretty much dead to nuts on (not sure if that is the norm or not - its hard to judge from postings on a forum).

So far I've been extreamly pleased and the level of degree you can adjust this set is pretty much mind blowing to me. I've been playing around with it some yesterday and have been learning quite abit in the process.

There is no doubt there is quite abit of tweaking that is required from out of the box but the improvements I have been seeing have been more subtle (tuned originally with a DVE disk which made a huge improvement). I'm going to refrain on posting any settings for the time being (I'm still shocked at the venom some of the people on the calibration section can spit out - one in particular) till I have a better grasp of what I'm doing and the understanding of it. I've been intentionally taking it slow for those reasons. Additionally there is some further software I need to buy and dealing with the learning curve there. I'm really interested to see what the set is able to produce as far as accuracy without the use of service level changes to the set (if that is at all possible - I'm hoping so as the idea of voiding my warranty is not one I really desire).

From the rear projection sets I have viewed over the last several months I'm extreamly pleased with the 833. I stopped over at a friends house for abit and was watching some of the eggles game on his 40" Samsung 95 series and found out that when verizon was out to install his hd receiver they have a S-Video cable connecting it... Nice... and not a HDMI present anywhere in the house (ordered one for him). The late game seemed alot better on the 65"
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post #655 of 3510 Old 09-24-2007, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawgfin View Post

Thanks Trapper John for your insight on working on the screen. I live in a rather rural area, and generally folks around here aren't on the cutting edge of technology-even when they are called "Techs."
Now for question #2: Anybody out there get a set that has decent geometry right out of the box? Pincushioning is quite noticeable on both sides of my set during 4:3 viewing, but it is especially bad on the right side. As a result, the bottom corner on that side juts out so far it is ridiculous. I hate to think about what it is probably doing to the picture quality as a whole.
Since I already have a smudge issue, I'm trying to decide on whether or not to do an exchange and try again, or try to make service menu adjustments and live with it. Theres no sense in returning it if I'm just going to get another set that is doing pretty much the same thing.
BTW, I also have the mysterious yellowish ghost light that akrias mentions in his extensive analysis of his set. It is only visible when changing channels or when screen is dark and set is on. I'm guessing this is a normal operation kind of thing. Anyone with knowledge about how things work in these sets have any suggestions as to what might be causing this? Thanks everyone!

The geometry was off less than 1/8" on right side out of box on my 65833, if the pincushioning is that bad, and you have a smudge issue, and other issues, i've exchange it for another, i have none of these issues.
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post #656 of 3510 Old 09-24-2007, 08:54 AM
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Thanks guys for all your help in making my decision. I just called Crutchfield and I'm going to make an exchange. I've never owned a DLP before, and I realize that geometry issues are par for the course with these things, but sheesh. This baby was still off over a quarter of an inch even after doing all I could to resolve the situation.
You never know with these things. I may be trading one headache for another, but based on what I am reading here, geometry on this model shouldn't be that big of an issue. I agree with everyone else on the great picture, however. When fed the right source, this beast is amazing. It's certainly worth giving another shot.
Thanks Again!
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post #657 of 3510 Old 09-24-2007, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terpsfan59 View Post

I just wanted to post after reading many posts related to problems. I have had my 65833 for a little over a week now and am thrilled with it. I have none of the issues I have been reading about on this forum. The picture is absolutely stunning. I have no other way top describe it. I have looked around for quite a while till I finally settled on this set. I have many friends who have Plasma's and LCD's. None of the sets I have seen are any better than the picture on this set. I just wanted to add my 2 cents. (For whatever it's worth....)


It's worth A LOT. As I wait for delivery of my 65833 I keep dreading getting a bad one. BUT, considering the ratio I'm reading the odds are low compared to the Sam 6189 I was trying to get originally. Good luck and enjoy your set!!

Joe in West Los Angeles, CA
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post #658 of 3510 Old 09-24-2007, 10:07 AM
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I have a feeling that you will be ok Joe - I think the people on this forum tend to be overly critical (can be a good or bad thing) plus so long as you buy from reputable seller you always have your warranty to fall back on.

IMHO the sets have reached such a point where they are considerably better than the source content they get fed. You will notice that on your set that some channels/programs look better or worse and it's not worth beating yourself up over - so long as it looks good to you thats the best thing to shoot for.

I feel for the "type A" personalities out there , but then again I have been in the Pharm industry for the last 12 years so they are some of the best consumers with their self inflicted illnesses
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post #659 of 3510 Old 09-24-2007, 11:55 AM
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Hey guys - I'm currently trying to decide between the 73733 and 73833.

Obviously, being owners of the 833, you have knowledge of that experience. Can anyone give me some compelling reasons to pay the extra $$ for the 833? More connectivity inputs doesn't matter since I have an HDMI A/V receiver and only need one connection into the TV anyway.

Is the 120Hz noticeable (if you aren't staring at it and looking for differences)? Does it even matter with most video sources? That seems to be the biggest selling point, but I can't quite come to grips with spending an extra $1100 for it.

3D output not a big deal for a few years, so that doesn't really sway me much.

Anything else that is a big difference that I'm not seeing?

Appreciate any advice. Looking forward to joining the legion of owners.
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post #660 of 3510 Old 09-24-2007, 12:49 PM
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Hey guys,
Just wanted to give a post-mortem on some serious 65833 issues I had. I originally bought my set from Vanns, but have had so many issues with it that I'm sending it back and have instead bought the Sony KDS-60A3000 at a local Best Buy so if I have further issues I can just return it locally.

I wanted to relate my experience here because I think it's a new (and hopefully isolated) issue with the set. The technician who helped me said he hadn't seen anything like it with the 833's before.

Original issues out of the box:

1) (I also bought an Onkyo TX-SR705 at the same time.) Hooked up HDMI components (PS3, HD Cable Box) through receiver, then sent HDMI out from receiver to TV. Upon first plugging HDMI into TV the Auto-Sense would recognize it, assign it the special, hidden "AVR" input name, and I could use it just fine. But if I turned the TV off or hit the "input" button to cycle to the next input, it would lose that connection and could not be restored except by unplugging the HDMI from the back of the TV and plugging it into a different port. If I plugged the PS3 and the Cable Box directly into the TV, I did not have this issue. I could turn the TV off and then on again and they'd still be there.

2) Excessive high-pitched whine coming from back of TV. Pretty typical. Not noticeable during an action scene or video game, but very evident during dialogue scenes. Tech thought it was probably the lamp as it sounded more electrical than mechanical.

3) Used DVI->HDMI cable to connect PC to TV. TV didn't detect the connection at all, let alone display a usable image.

Ok, so that was square one. I called Mitsubishi and they had me do a System Reset, which did nothing, and then unplug the TV, leave it for awhile, and plug it back in. Upon plugging it back in, the Timer light began to blink indefinitely and I was never able to turn the TV on again. Further System Resets and unpluggings/repluggings did nothing to alleviate the issue.

Tech talked to Mits, they sent him a new Main Board for the TV, and he came and installed it. You're probably fortunate to never have had your TV's chassis cracked, but I have now, and here's how it works: all of the analog inputs are on a secondary board which then plugs in vertically to the main board, which sits horizontally. The 3 HDMI inputs are on the main board. So: if the TV was the issue with my HDMI problem, one would assume that replacing the main board would fix it. All of that HDMI switching/detection happens on that board.

Here was the result:

* Timer Light issue fixed. Was now able to turn the TV back on.

* DVI->HDMI issue fixed. Was now able to use my PC on the TV.

* HDMI connection issue not fixed. This led me to believe that perhaps I had a bad receiver, something I'll have to investigate further when I pick up the Sony set tonight.

* High-pitched whine was not fixed (obviously) since that has nothing to do with the main board.

And, to add insult to injury, my picture now looks like absolute crap. Supposedly the tech did something which was supposed to auto-calibrate the TV, but it either didn't work or ... I don't even know what. But it looks HORRIBLE. I don't know the official term for it, but it's as if you set your computer's resolution to 8-bit color depth. Very few available colors, and no blending whatsoever. Everything chunky and pixelated. Grossness all around.

At this point the tech was at a loss, and he called Mits and they were at a loss too. Mits pointed the finger at Onkyo for the continuing HDMI issue (and, to add some possible credibility to this theory, a fellow in the Onkyo thread I use said he had issues in the past with HDMI handshaking and it was the source (i.e. the receiver) and not the TV that was the problem).

But since there is no real "light at the end of the tunnel" with all of this - just theories and possible fixes, I decided to send it back. With Heroes starting tonight and Halo 3 coming out tomorrow I don't have any time to be messing around for a month with trying to get my set working the way it should. It seems like this is either a very isolated case of a real lemon of a TV, or it's some kind of specific issue between these new 833 TVs and the new 705 Onkyo receivers. Only time will tell.

But I just wanted to put this out there so if you're having similar issues you can at least tell tech support you weren't the only one. And, whatever you do, don't agree to Mits's "unplug/replug" troubleshooting step. It kills your TV. :-P
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