Official Mitsubishi WD XX833 Owners Thread - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 3509 Old 09-26-2007, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZHTGeek View Post

GGH, GBH, and GRH are high temperature settings, L's are the low settings.

thanks but thats for the GAINS, looking for BIAS as well

You know other in the past would be parameters called cuts and drives or contrast and brightness or Bias and Gains..they are always a set of 3 in each of them, in other words Red Cuts, Blue Cuts, Green Cuts, then Red Drive, Blue Drive, Green Drive. I know sometimes they do not have the Green because of it being mainly Y (luminance) but I even believe thats a rarity nowadays


Still in search for my answer...GGL, GBL GRL are for the highend of the LOW temperature greyscale, with parameters of 1024 default for all of mine, then I have CMG, CMR, CMB which I hear are for the Lowend, but those only are defaults to 100 and only go up to 150..generally the numbers are similar that you wont see 1024 Greendrive and 100 Green cut...they ranges are very diff from each other..

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post #722 of 3509 Old 09-26-2007, 08:55 PM
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also I used TomHuffman color decoding instructions since I have a DTP94 and ColorHCFR to do the work...seems to work like a charm..watching APocalypto...very VERY satisfied...I just would like to get this temperature tracking D65 or close to...

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post #723 of 3509 Old 09-26-2007, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richlo View Post

thanks but thats for the GAINS, looking for BIAS as well

Oops sorry, if you find out this info please share.
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post #724 of 3509 Old 09-26-2007, 11:17 PM
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so does this tv show when its recieivng and playign back a 24fps source? does it display 1080/24p on the screen ?
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post #725 of 3509 Old 09-26-2007, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richlo View Post

thanks but thats for the GAINS, looking for BIAS as well

You know other in the past would be parameters called cuts and drives or contrast and brightness or Bias and Gains..they are always a set of 3 in each of them, in other words Red Cuts, Blue Cuts, Green Cuts, then Red Drive, Blue Drive, Green Drive. I know sometimes they do not have the Green because of it being mainly Y (luminance) but I even believe thats a rarity nowadays


Still in search for my answer...GGL, GBL GRL are for the highend of the LOW temperature greyscale, with parameters of 1024 default for all of mine, then I have CMG, CMR, CMB which I hear are for the Lowend, but those only are defaults to 100 and only go up to 150..generally the numbers are similar that you wont see 1024 Greendrive and 100 Green cut...they ranges are very diff from each other..

I used the CMG, CMR, CMB to adjust the Lowend and they seemed to work. Have the Grayscale pretty close compared to earlier attempts. I had to "compromise" though to keep all levels of IRE close.
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post #726 of 3509 Old 09-26-2007, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richlo View Post

also I used TomHuffman color decoding instructions since I have a DTP94 and ColorHCFR to do the work...seems to work like a charm..watching APocalypto...very VERY satisfied...I just would like to get this temperature tracking D65 or close to...

How did your Cyan and Magenta plot on the CIE? Mine are no longer inline following Toms Process. Like their saturation is off which the Mitz doesn't seem to have an adjustment for.
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post #727 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 12:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZHTGeek View Post

How did your Cyan and Magenta plot on the CIE? Mine are no longer inline following Toms Process. Like their saturation is off which the Mitz doesn't seem to have an adjustment for.

Ah think I found it I messed with the color controls when I shouldn't of. Different model but same idea.

From TomHuffman

"Exactly. The Sharp has precise controls for all of the colors, so you shouldn't use the Color control at all. Use Red Value to adjust the level of red. It's the same with Tint. Leave that alone. Use the Cyan Hue control instead."
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post #728 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 01:20 AM
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Unless I find out some new tricks before I re-run my component test this will be final attempt on this player. This is the 73833.


Picture Mode Natural
Contrast 55
Brightness 33
Color 31
Tint 31
Sharpness 26
Color Temp Low
Deep Field Imager Off

PerfectColor
Magenta 45
Red 40
Yellow 32
Green 38
Cyan 40
Blue 29

PerfectTint
Magenta 22
Red 23
Yellow 33
Green 39
Cyan 38
Blue 18
Video Noise Off
Video Mute On
Film Mode On
SharpEdge Off
Smooth 120Hz On
Blue Glow On if TV On
Lamp Mode Bright
Energy Mode Fast Power On
6. GGL 1020
7. GRL 970
8. GBL 1044
53. BMB 1
57. CMG 97
58. CMR 102
59.CMB 95
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post #729 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by nc88keyz View Post

I have the 73833 as well and it looked awefully big at first. Now it just looks razor sharp but our eyes have adjusted to the size and we are very comfortable now.

Is it true that the weight of the 73833 is less than half the weight of the 73831? The specs from Mits list the 831 at 190 pounds and the 833 at 92 pounds. How exactly would they cut the weight in half for the same size screen? Incidentally, at Magnolia Video they said there's no way the 831 weighs 190 pounds.
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post #730 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 06:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZHTGeek View Post

...
7. GRL 991
...

Are you sure about these settings? When I tried 991 for GRL my screen looked very yellowish probably due to this drastic change in settings. Did I do something wrong?

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post #731 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 07:22 AM
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So what exactly does the film mode on the tv do. And how many people are running the tv with it on. And is anyone else not seeing the advantage of 120hz. For me it seems to add more video noise into the signal
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post #732 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

Are you sure about these settings? When I tried 991 for GRL my screen looked very yellowish probably due to this drastic change in settings. Did I do something wrong?

Well everyone and their TV is different so mileage may very but my guess is you are so use to the super bright blue that this is a shocking change. Brilliant, Bright, and High are so blue that this is how I feel about those going the other way. This setting brought the high end of my grayscale testing inline. Hence the higher Red perfect color setting to bring the red value back up in the color decoder.

The recommendation of most is that you try it for a few days to see if you "adjust" to the changes. You can always go back to default.
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post #733 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue1 View Post

Black Crush:
In dark scenes there seems to be a total lack of any grey scale.
TV Guide:
Haven't been able to get it working. And the manuals are very vague.

Other than the above, this TV rocks! HD footballs is amazing.
The factory settings work for me, skin tone has been spot-on!
Can't wait to get a Blu-Ray player and see what 1080p looks like.

I have only watched Heroes and I've noticed the black or dark scenes look horrible...I'm assuming I have to adjust my settings, but all I saw was boxes/squares when the dark scenes came up...I haven't tried the TV guide yet, but will soon...

I have a gound loop and would like to know if I should get a power conditioner or just a good surge protector? thanks...
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post #734 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZHTGeek View Post

Ah think I found it I messed with the color controls when I shouldn't of. Different model but same idea.

From TomHuffman

"Exactly. The Sharp has precise controls for all of the colors, so you shouldn't use the Color control at all. Use Red Value to adjust the level of red. It's the same with Tint. Leave that alone. Use the Cyan Hue control instead."

If you (AZHTGeek) and richlo could provide some type of "WD-XX833 Guide to Using TomHuffman's Guide to Calibration" I would be in much debt. What issues did you run into (like the above) using his guide and how did you resolve them? Where there any differences in how we should calibrate because of the XX833? Why did you decide to turn on or off certain settings (like Film Mode) that are perhaps unique to our set or at the very least not part of the "standard" calibration?

Thanks! I do love this TV. No problems at all. Good picture that will only get better once my colorimeter arrives.
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post #735 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrj_gamz View Post

I have only watched Heroes and I've noticed the black or dark scenes look horrible...I'm assuming I have to adjust my settings, but all I saw was boxes/squares when the dark scenes came up...I haven't tried the TV guide yet, but will soon...

I have a gound loop and would like to know if I should get a power conditioner or just a good surge protector? thanks...

Depends on what is causing your ground loop. If you have a cable service, it's a good bet this is causing the problem and neither item you mentioned probably will eliminate the problem. Instead get two 75 ohm to 300 ohm baluns, connect the two 300 ohm twin leads together and insert into your cable connection. This will prevent the cable ground current from entering your system.
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post #736 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opus312 View Post

Is it true that the weight of the 73833 is less than half the weight of the 73831? The specs from Mits list the 831 at 190 pounds and the 833 at 92 pounds. How exactly would they cut the weight in half for the same size screen? Incidentally, at Magnolia Video they said there's no way the 831 weighs 190 pounds.

They are correct, it does not weigh 190lbs
LL
LL
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post #737 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by barrysb View Post

Depends on what is causing your ground loop. If you have a cable service, it's a good bet this is causing the problem and neither item you mentioned probably will eliminate the problem. Instead get two 75 ohm to 300 ohm baluns, connect the two 300 ohm twin leads together and insert into your cable connection. This will prevent the cable ground current from entering your system.


Thanks...I'll try that first...Do you know if this would also solve this "humming" i get on my subwoofer? That's what led me to my original question...
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post #738 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrj_gamz View Post

Thanks...I'll try that first...Do you know if this would also solve this "humming" i get on my subwoofer? That's what led me to my original question...

That's a possibility. You need to isolate the source of the ground current. The cable connection is always a concern as it's the one unbalanced feed coming into your home. But hum can also be introduced when you have various pieces of equipment networked together in different locations in your home. Sometimes, it isn't the easiest problem to troubleshoot.
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post #739 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 11:01 AM
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Let's go Mitsu, these color wheels suck and I'm tired of seeing RBE. I had to dump my 65833 and buy a Pioneer elite. Hopefully in a few years I can get back in the sattle with mitsu and watch flawless television again.
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post #740 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barrysb View Post

Depends on what is causing your ground loop. If you have a cable service, it's a good bet this is causing the problem and neither item you mentioned probably will eliminate the problem. Instead get two 75 ohm to 300 ohm baluns, connect the two 300 ohm twin leads together and insert into your cable connection. This will prevent the cable ground current from entering your system.

actually, i had the exact same issue as him, with my cable connection causeing the ground loop. i got a monster surge protector ( one that has a coaxil connection ) and it fixed the ground loop. So yes the surge protector will work as long as u coonect the cables coax to it from the wall and then from the sruge protector to the TV.
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post #741 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barrysb View Post

Depends on what is causing your ground loop. If you have a cable service, it's a good bet this is causing the problem and neither item you mentioned probably will eliminate the problem. Instead get two 75 ohm to 300 ohm baluns, connect the two 300 ohm twin leads together and insert into your cable connection. This will prevent the cable ground current from entering your system.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rrj_gamz View Post

Thanks...I'll try that first...Do you know if this would also solve this "humming" i get on my subwoofer? That's what led me to my original question...

just un plug the cables coax from the tv if the hum and vertical bars disapear then its the cable line. just get a surge protector with a coax in and out and connect it through there and it will eliminate the ground loop. it worked for me, i had the same issue as you.
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post #742 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 11:42 AM
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so i just read that mitsu DLP TVs use a 720p texas instruments chip? so is it wobulating to get 1080p?
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post #743 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joevfx View Post

actually, i had the exact same issue as him, with my cable connection causeing the ground loop. i got a monster surge protector ( one that has a coaxil connection ) and it fixed the ground loop. So yes the surge protector will work as long as u coonect the cables coax to it from the wall and then from the sruge protector to the TV.

They probably have the 75/300/75 baluns built-into the surge protector.
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post #744 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joevfx View Post

so i just read that mitsu DLP TVs use a 720p texas instruments chip? so is it wobulating to get 1080p?

no, they use 960x1080 chip and wobulate to display 1920x1080
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post #745 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barth2k View Post

no, they use 960x1080 chip and wobulate to display 1920x1080

if you go to mitsubishis website, and go to there faqs, the first thing says they use the newest texas instruments dlp chip which is 720p.
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post #746 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrj_gamz View Post

Thanks...I'll try that first...Do you know if this would also solve this "humming" i get on my subwoofer? That's what led me to my original question...

This Ground Loop Isolator by Xitel took the hum out of my subwoofer when nothing else would: Ground Loop Isolator
I tried a cheaper isolator from Radio Shack which did not work. I also had a surge protector into which the main cable feed but it did nothing for the subwoofer. (I verified that the ground loop originated with the cable TV line.) Oddly, the ground loop was only experienced with the sub - never had a problem with 60-cycle noise on the video.

Edit: Place the isolator between your amp and the sub.

don...

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post #747 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joevfx View Post

if you go to mitsubishis website, and go to there faqs, the first thing says they use the newest texas instruments dlp chip which is 720p.

The faq is way out of date.

don...

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post #748 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 01:53 PM
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Thnx joevfx and donb1948...I was leaning toward the surge protector with the coax built in (probalby has the 75/300/75 baluns built-in)...It's wierd, I've had the vertical lines before and suspected my cable box, but the humming of my sub is new as I just hooked up my tx-sr605...I'll try a ground loop isolator as suggested...
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post #749 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrj_gamz View Post

Thnx joevfx and donb1948...I was leaning toward the surge protector with the coax built in (probalby has the 75/300/75 baluns built-in)...It's wierd, I've had the vertical lines before and suspected my cable box, but the humming of my sub is new as I just hooked up my tx-sr605...I'll try a ground loop isolator as suggested...

the hummer is caused by the ground loop thats doin the vertical bars also. i had the same hum, the surger protector with a coaxil hook up should fix that too
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post #750 of 3509 Old 09-27-2007, 03:32 PM
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so are people loving this TV? are they getting a wow factor from it when veiwing HD content? im really thinking about getting this tv over the sony A3000 but need some convincing.
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