>>Sony KDS-XXA3000<< Settings/Tweaks thread - OWNERS ONLY! - Page 19 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #541 of 4486 Old 10-27-2007, 09:32 PM
Newbie
 
coywire27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I need help - I have no idea how to contact or look up someone to come to my house to calibrate my video and audio equipment (the a3000 included) - I live in nw indiana - help!
coywire27 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #542 of 4486 Old 10-27-2007, 10:17 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
DavidHir's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,397
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 159 Post(s)
Liked: 424
Auto 1 will give the best contrast ratio. I've actually switched to it while adjusting (lowering) contrast.

coywire,

Chad Billheimer lives in your state - he just calibrated my A3000 tonight and did a very nice job. Try contacting him - he has a very good reputation. Try Googling him.

DavidHir is offline  
post #543 of 4486 Old 10-27-2007, 11:14 PM
AVS Special Member
 
alluringreality's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,166
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by HomeGuy View Post

I also tried your settings and it seems like the blacks are a truer shade of black but then the picture is much dimmer. I think it's a tradeoff between deep blacks and a less bright picture and gray blacks and a brighter picture.

To a very small extent yes that's true, but that's not what I was addressing. When it comes to setting how much light you want coming from the TV, there are basically three sets of controls. One is for setting white level, one is for setting black-level, and then there's gamma controls. What I was saying is that unless you've set your source so it's not using typical levels for blacks, then I think you're using black-level controls to set white-level. I also question how closely you've looked at what the gamma controls actually do.

White-level is what will generally determine if you have a dim or a bright picture. Color temperature isn't necessarily a white-level control, but it influences how much light comes from the TV so I consider it part of setting white-level. Neutral will produce a brighter picture than Warm2. The other white-level controls are picture and the iris. Because you're using neutral, you can probably set picture to max because I don't think there will be any color shifts. Max or auto 1 iris will give you the most light without getting into the service menu.

Black level will determine if your blacks are similar to how they were intended to be seen. Black-level is probably the least subjective setting because if it's set incorrectly it either decreases detail or lowers contrast. Bias is a black-level control, but unless you're altering white balance really the only black-level control is brightness. You do not want to use brightness to influence how bright the picture is. If you do that then you unnecessarily make black into a gray and decrease contrast. Brightness is used to make sure that video black is the darkest shade of gray that your TV will display. Even though it's called brightness, black-level controls are not really intended to influence how much light your TV outputs.

Gamma controls can be used to alter how light changes through the grayscale (from black to white). There are basically two controls - gamma or black corrector. The gamma setting will add more light to the middle of the grayscale (50% gray will be brighter). The black corrector will cause the low-end of the grayscale to be darker, and that's inconsistent with having a brighter picture. If you turn on black corrector, then as you move away from black toward white the picture will be darker than if black corrector was off.


Quote:


To get my bright picture I need to also use the black corrector to compensate. Does this make sense?

On my other TV I looked at how the setting affects grayscale and gamma, and so no it doesn't make sense. You cannot use black corrector to make up for things if you set brightness too high. All it does is squish the low-end of the grayscale so that there's less change in light output between say 0% and 30% gray.

Quote:


I did lower my brightness 10 ticks and it does look a bit better.

I would suggest turning off black corrector would help make a more accurate picture. At first I also thought black corrector made for a better looking picture, but the more I looked into it I found it was simply decreasing detail. If you want to set brightness correctly you can use a typical DVD. Grayscale is the same as HD. I would suggest Digital Video Essentials. It has both a low and a high APL image that might be useful because you're using an auto iris. Places like Netflix have calibration disks, or if you live in a big enough city the library might also. If there's one thing calibration disks are good for, it's setting black-level. The grayscale bars might also give you a better idea what changes the gamma controls cause.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
alluringreality is offline  
post #544 of 4486 Old 10-28-2007, 06:23 AM
Senior Member
 
GerryWaz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Woodbury, MN
Posts: 285
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I just got my 60A3000 yesterday and am so far enjoying getting it set up--this and the other "tweaks" thread have been very helpful.

I do have one audio question.

For HDMI Input 1, it has audio inputs also. What "kind" of audio should be fed to those inputs?

The reason I ask is that when I first set up the set to see if it was working okay, I had video coming in from my VP50 video processor and analog audio coming direct from my cable box.

The 60A3000 displayed some kind of error message about the audio being incompatible and no audio could be heard.

I've since gotten my audio working through my Arcam AVR300 receiver, but I am still curious what "kind" of audio HDMI Input 1 wants instead of plain old analog L-R audio? (Forgive my audio ignorance here if the answer is obvious.)

TIA.
GerryWaz is offline  
post #545 of 4486 Old 10-28-2007, 10:45 AM
Senior Member
 
DBailey's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Reynoldsburg
Posts: 233
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
i have had my tv for about 10 days and also have an a2000. As with my a2000 after about 100 hours the picture actually improved. i dont know if it is me or if it just the optical block "settling in". I also had issue with my HR20 and a soft picture. My settings are done with my hr20 over hdmi. i am very picky and i like these. Ironically the standard setting looks better than the custom, i dont why but it looks much more detailed??? anyway here are my settings...

Picture mode standard
Iris - auto2
picture 88
brightness 47
color 57
hue r1
temp warm1
sharpness 40
noise reduction off
mpeg noise reduction off
black corrector off
gamma low
clear white off
color space - wide
live color - medium
white balance all 0
detail enhancer - high - as with my a2000 this really helped the picture. increases sse a little however. highly recommend this medium is good also.
edge enhancer - off
motion enhander - standard
motion naturalizer - off
cinemion - auto 2
power saving - on

I REALLY like these settings... enjoy.

PSN:TKDFighter
Member TWW And $BUS clan...
DBailey is offline  
post #546 of 4486 Old 10-28-2007, 07:11 PM
Advanced Member
 
HomeGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 837
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Allur: There is a Dell commercial with 3 hotties. Anyway, one hottie is wearing a black dress with creases in the front. I paused that picture and played with Gamma, black corrector, brightness, etc. With black corrector turned even to low the detail was gone. When I turned BC off the detail was there. I tried several setting changes with BC on and off and I have to agree that it's better to leave it off. Have you figured out video settings, ME. MN, CM, etc? Good call. With the proper signal this set is absolutely stunning. Off topic: I was reading how Sony showed off a laser set at the CES but I can't find any first hand comments on how the set looked. Apparently lasers reproduce 90% of the colors that humans see while lamp sets do about half. The other technology coming down the pipe is 3d but I'm not sure if the programming source has to be filmed specially or if you can make any source 3d.
HomeGuy is offline  
post #547 of 4486 Old 10-28-2007, 09:40 PM
AVS Special Member
 
alluringreality's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,166
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by HomeGuy View Post

Have you figured out video settings, ME. MN, CM, etc?

I've looked at the controls, but generally my settings are just personal preference.

Motion Enhancer - On HD over the air, I use standard because for whatever reason it seems more realistic to me than off. On 1080p/60 and 24p the only thing that really catches my attention are some camera pans. I tried seeing how the setting would affect camera pans, and I didn't see much benefit so I just leave it off.

Motion Naturalizer - With a VERY low light output (far less than even I use) this can make 24p movement more realistic to me. On any sort of reasonable light output though, I can't stand the flashing so I always leave it off.

Cinemotion - I really wish this setting was better documented because I couldn't figure it out by eye when I tried looking at this with Blu-ray. In spite of the suggestion here that it only affects SD, I thought logically it might have something to do with 60 frames from 24p sources, but I didn't notice any differences. The manual doesn't mention telecine sources, but maybe that's what it has to do with. The compete lack of solid information confuses me, and I just use off or Auto2 for different sources.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
alluringreality is offline  
post #548 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 08:47 AM
AVS Special Member
 
alluringreality's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,166
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Replaced with http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post12247850

These settings are for a nearly dark room. I use the TV at night with a 7W daylight bulb behind the TV pointed at the wall. Increasing iris would be appropriate if you have anything more than very minimal light in the room.

Calibration Source - XA2 over HDMI
Calibration Disk - HD Digital Video Essentials
Meter - Display LT

GENERAL:
Power Saving = On [Off]
(Power Saving appears to alter white balance. I use on for the darker black level, but off might generally have a more accurate grayscale so I’ve included alternate settings for off in brackets.)

PICTURE:
Mode = Custom
Adv. Iris = Min (Change if you want more light than picture 88 with Warm2)
Picture = 88 [66 to 88]
Bright = 48 [49]
Color = 49
Hue = 0
Temp = Warm2
Sharp = 25 (From Sony Blu-ray pattern)
Advanced Settings = Off or Standard

PICTURE WHITE BALANCE:
(You might want to just leave these at default 0 because grayscale could vary between TVs)
R-Gain = -7 [-3]
G-Gain = -2
B-Gain = 0
R-Bias = -1
G-Bias = 0
B-Bias = 0

VIDEO OPTIONS:
Motion Enhancer = Off (Standard for ATSC)
Motion Naturalizer = Off
Cinemotion = Auto2 (Off for 1080p/24 or if the source will never be used for movies)

THEATER BUTTON ON REMOTE:
Theater mode = Off

11/3/07 minor settings changes. The attachment is the most recent power saving on measurement from HCFR (http://www.homecinema-fr.com/colorim...tup_v1_2_2.exe) and the measured color decoding response. Picture was at 86 when measured and later set to 88 by watching video for increased contrast, which might increase 100% Y to around 68nits and could drop top gamma a bit.

 

CustomFinal2.zip 52.6904296875k . file


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
alluringreality is offline  
post #549 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 10:27 AM
AVS Special Member
 
joevfx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,080
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by alluringreality View Post

I've looked at the controls, but generally my settings are just personal preference.

Motion Enhancer - On HD over the air, I use standard because for whatever reason it seems more realistic to me than off. On 1080p/60 and 24p the only thing that really catches my attention are some camera pans. I tried seeing how the setting would affect camera pans, and I didn't see much benefit so I just leave it off.

Motion Naturalizer - With a VERY low light output (far less than even I use) this can make 24p movement more realistic to me. On any sort of reasonable light output though, I can't stand the flashing so I always leave it off.

Cinemotion - I really wish this setting was better documented because I couldn't figure it out by eye when I tried looking at this with Blu-ray. In spite of the suggestion here that it only affects SD, I thought logically it might have something to do with 60 frames from 24p sources, but I didn't notice any differences. The manual doesn't mention telecine sources, but maybe that's what it has to do with. The compete lack of solid information confuses me, and I just use off or Auto2 for different sources.

cinemotion only effects 480i sources. the reason u arent seeing difference with blu ray is cause its not doin anything to the signal when you have it on and it sees an HD source.
joevfx is offline  
post #550 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 10:28 AM
AVS Special Member
 
joevfx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,080
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by DBailey View Post

i have had my tv for about 10 days and also have an a2000. As with my a2000 after about 100 hours the picture actually improved. i dont know if it is me or if it just the optical block "settling in". I also had issue with my HR20 and a soft picture. My settings are done with my hr20 over hdmi. i am very picky and i like these. Ironically the standard setting looks better than the custom, i dont why but it looks cleaner than custom? anyway here are my settings...

Picture mode standard
Iris - auto 1
picture 90
brightness 47
color 57
hue 0
temp warm1
sharpness 45
noise reduction off
mpeg noise reduction off
black corrector off
gamma low
clear white off
color space - wide
live color - medium
white balance all 0
detail enhancer - high - as with my a2000 this really helped the picture. increases sse a little however. highly recommend this medium is good also.
edge enhancer - off
motion enhander - standard
motion naturalizer - off
cinemion - auto 2
power saving - on

I REALLY like these settings... enjoy.


what made you settle on auto 2 for cinemotion?
joevfx is offline  
post #551 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 11:04 AM
Member
 
Vince's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Woodland Hills, CA USA
Posts: 16
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
First off, I love my 60A3000. It is nearly flawless IMHO.

I say 'nearly' because I have one issue which is starting to bother me more each day. When viewing 4:3 content, the picture is about 1 inch narrower at the top than at the bottom. Is this something I can fix (and if so, how?) or should I return it for another? Aside from this I have no complaints at all.

Thanks!
Vince is offline  
post #552 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 11:07 AM
AVS Special Member
 
joevfx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,080
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince View Post

First off, I love my 60A3000. It is nearly flawless IMHO.

I say 'nearly' because I have one issue which is starting to bother me more each day. When viewing 4:3 content, the picture is about 1 inch narrower at the top than at the bottom. Is this something I can fix (and if so, how?) or should I return it for another? Aside from this I have no complaints at all.

Thanks!

thast the geometry issue everyone is talkign about. i think 1"insh is sorta alot, and soem peopel have been exchanging it for a set with less then an inch geometry issue.

other peopel can answer this better.
joevfx is offline  
post #553 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 11:30 AM
Senior Member
 
DBailey's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Reynoldsburg
Posts: 233
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by joevfx View Post

what made you settle on auto 2 for cinemotion?

I was confused by all the talk and just read the manual and it said it produces and image closes to the original, so i went with that...

PSN:TKDFighter
Member TWW And $BUS clan...
DBailey is offline  
post #554 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 11:47 AM
AVS Special Member
 
joevfx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,080
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by DBailey View Post

I was confused by all the talk and just read the manual and it said it produces and image closes to the original, so i went with that...

yeah true. bu ti think for HD content it can be off. there has been talks that its possible accidentally tryign to do a conversion on HD stuff when it doesnt need too. the 3 time si contacted Sony they said cinemotion only works on 4801 signals.
joevfx is offline  
post #555 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 11:56 AM
AVS Special Member
 
joevfx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,080
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
this is from an insider at blue ray. some cool info just to let everyone know.

"The new XBR LCD sets will not only display 24p as 5:5, but they will also take 60i, convert it to 24p, then display it at 120hz 5:5. The downside of the latter is that it takes a few frames to lock on the cadence of the signal, so it is better to feed 24p if possible. Be sure to check out the "theatre" viewing mode as well. SPE helped out with that and it works well. It is designed to emulate the picture on a professional display."

im sure this is the same for the sxrd sets also.
joevfx is offline  
post #556 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 12:22 PM
AVS Special Member
 
hwjohn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Down by the river
Posts: 1,018
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by DBailey View Post

I was confused by all the talk and just read the manual and it said it produces and image closes to the original, so i went with that...

The original confusion as to whether or not CM was active for HD content stemmed from the fact that the ticker on ESPN would stutter, and also the "creepy" effect present on Blu-Ray, which indicates that CM is active for more than just 480i. Check out ESPN HD and see if the ticker stutters for you. It's pretty obvious that CM is doing something to HD signals; whether it should or shouldn't be I don't know (it depends on if there is a different algorithm for HD reverse pulldowns as opposed to SD reverse pulldowns).


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

The 2007 Patriots: 18 -1
Tom who?
"...the small of napalm in the evening breeze, as I crouch behind a shopping cart in the parking lot..." - The Mall Ninja
hwjohn is offline  
post #557 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 01:10 PM
Member
 
eklinger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 100
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by GerryWaz View Post

I do have one audio question.

For HDMI Input 1, it has audio inputs also. What "kind" of audio should be fed to those inputs?

The reason I ask is that when I first set up the set to see if it was working okay, I had video coming in from my VP50 video processor and analog audio coming direct from my cable box.

The 60A3000 displayed some kind of error message about the audio being incompatible and no audio could be heard.

I've since gotten my audio working through my Arcam AVR300 receiver, but I am still curious what "kind" of audio HDMI Input 1 wants instead of plain old analog L-R audio? (Forgive my audio ignorance here if the answer is obvious.)

TIA.

That would be your analog red, white RCA Plugs. HDMI 1 has those inputs for people that are using a DVI to HDMI cable and need to get audio to the TV. If you are using HDMI to HDMI then your audio is in the HDMI stream.
eklinger is offline  
post #558 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 01:20 PM
AVS Special Member
 
joevfx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,080
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by alluringreality View Post

My opinion is that you can't necessarily trust customer service replies for full information, but I don't have access to ESPN. I just use ATSC, so what's the CM setting that might reduce stutter?

What was the setting that affected the "creepy" effect? (I'm thinking off, but I didn't see any difference between Auto2 and off)

i think the creep y effect is Motion enhancer. its interpolatiign new frames to smooth out the image in 120hz playback. the reason it looks "creepy" is cause we arent used to it. it doenst have to be used. turnign it off will just reapeat frames to reach 120hz. in fact its prolly bes tot turn off for blu ray sicne then the 24p signal will be 120hz 5:5. if u liek the Creepy smooth look then put it on.
joevfx is offline  
post #559 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 01:27 PM
AVS Special Member
 
alluringreality's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,166
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked: 35
hwjohn - One thing that the current version of HCFR doesn't show is color decoding. Here is the spreadsheet I use. You'll see that by percentage blue is shown as the farthest off the HD standard (I was measuring HD colors) and also shows the most CIELAB error. I'm not much concerned about blue being high because I don't seem to be bothered by blue errors as much as green error or red error.

If you're going to be looking at color decoding that's really where higher quality measurement equipment might be useful. You'll certainly want to be looking at Delta E of some sort that includes Y (currently HCFR doesn't). The spreadsheet was created for my A2000 and for my uses there the dE(uv) 1976 minimum error didn't correlate with what I was seeing onscreen. The CIELAB Delta E shown is the same if you were using TomHuffman's spreadsheet. If you compare the A3000 with the A2000 file, you can see that the default color settings are probably more accurate on the A3000 by the lower Delta E.

 

ColorDecoding-A3000.zip 20.193359375k . file

 

ColorDecoding-A2000.zip 20.2333984375k . file


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
alluringreality is offline  
post #560 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 01:36 PM
AVS Special Member
 
joevfx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,080
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by hwjohn View Post

The original confusion as to whether or not CM was active for HD content stemmed from the fact that the ticker on ESPN would stutter, and also the "creepy" effect present on Blu-Ray, which indicates that CM is active for more than just 480i. Check out ESPN HD and see if the ticker stutters for you. It's pretty obvious that CM is doing something to HD signals; whether it should or shouldn't be I don't know (it depends on if there is a different algorithm for HD reverse pulldowns as opposed to SD reverse pulldowns).

espn is broadcasted at 720/60p just like ABC. so is the studderign happening with cinemotion in auto 1 or auto 2 mode? maybe one mode is trying to convert everything and the other mode is acutally tryign to tell the difference in the signals. cause if you turn on theater mode ( which was made for blu ray watching) it puts cinemotion to auto 2 ( which maybe means its detecting a 24p signal and not doin anything to it.)
joevfx is offline  
post #561 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 01:47 PM
AVS Special Member
 
joevfx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,080
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by alluringreality View Post

My TV showed Auto1 cinemotion in Theater mode over HDMI.

hmmmm. so do have have espn Hd? what happens when you cylce cinemotion through its settings including off?
joevfx is offline  
post #562 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 04:55 PM
Advanced Member
 
SkOrPn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Tijeras, NM USA
Posts: 543
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Thought I would introduce myself here.... My name is Rod and I am a brand new HDaholic. Yesterday I took delivery of a brand new Sony SXRD 55A3000 from Sears who delivered to my home for $75. The TV cost me $1999 with an instant $250 off for what ever reason making the TV $1749....

So far I am impressed with the TV's performance and I am happy I chose this TV as my first HDTV. I am coming from a 27" SD Sharp CRT 4/3 aspect so trying to get used to this detail level is dificult. I keep finding myself losing interest in the story line of movies because my jaw keeps falling off and I am forced to use spatula to retrieve it, not to mention the puddle of saliva I keep discovering on the floor next to my jaw makes me think the dog pee'd on the floor... But I dont have a dog...

All in all I am happy, but I want to start tweaking this thing to get the most out of it... So with that said, should I just start tweaking the user settings to closely match similar settings found in this thread? Or should I get a Calibration DVD like DVE or Monster/ISF?

Best Regards,
Happy new A3000 owner

Rod
SkOrPn is offline  
post #563 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 06:02 PM
AVS Special Member
 
alluringreality's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,166
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked: 35
For very basic video settings there are generally two items I find useful from test disks. The first is a pattern to see black so you can set black-level (brightness). The second is the color/tint pattern looking through a filter. Moving bars for the black pattern and flashing boxes for color are what I found easiest to use as a complete novice. I think that both Avia (the original, I haven't seen Avia 2) and GetGray have those patterns, while with DVE the patterns are still images. Of course with GetGray you would need to get a blue filter for the color settings and it doesn't have any audio items or basic video guides. There are places to rent calibration disks, but getting the color filters with the disk might be hit or miss. Even if you were to just use settings posted here, it wouldn't be a bad idea to at least rent a calibration disk to set black-level.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
alluringreality is offline  
post #564 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 06:23 PM
Newbie
 
snelldogg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Sorry for the double post but desperate

I just received my 55A3000 and am not getting a signal via HDMI? I have a comcast motorola 3416 and have hooked up tv's a thousand times in the past. My tv works with component cables and my dvd player works fine with hdmi. I have properly matched my inputs to the source but to no avail.

Please help as this is driving me nuts. Is it possible my hdmi cable went bad?
snelldogg is offline  
post #565 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 07:39 PM
Member
 
ClaytonMG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I didn't see anyone respond to the person that said Standard was cleaner... So I have to ask, why is Standard actually sharper? I turn the sharpness all the way down (to reduce any sort of edge hancing) and still Standard is way sharper... Right now I am trying to see if it adds any artifacting or anything as it is much sharper.

Also, would anyone recommend using the Black Corrector? So far I haven't seen much use for it...


EDIT: Alright so after doing some testing with the standard setting, I notice some major issues with it. One it added what appeared to be some sort of edge enhancement, Two it added lines through curved objects. Totally not worth the sharper picture and glad I have been using Custom this whole time.
ClaytonMG is offline  
post #566 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 07:46 PM
Member
 
ClaytonMG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by snelldogg View Post

Sorry for the double post but desperate

I just received my 55A3000 and am not getting a signal via HDMI? I have a comcast motorola 3416 and have hooked up tv's a thousand times in the past. My tv works with component cables and my dvd player works fine with hdmi. I have properly matched my inputs to the source but to no avail.

Please help as this is driving me nuts. Is it possible my hdmi cable went bad?

Is it HDCP compliant? I seem to remember lots of cable boxes having problems with HDMI. Have you tried anything else throug HDMI (Blu-Ray, HD-DVD, DVD player...)?
ClaytonMG is offline  
post #567 of 4486 Old 10-29-2007, 08:15 PM
Newbie
 
Reaper19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I have read many posts and compared many HDTV sets prior to deciding on the Sony KDS60A300 and really appreciate everyones input on comparisons, settings, and sharing their knowledge. I have not seen much on the topic discussing setting up your cable box for this HDTV.

While going through various settings on the TV I was able to get a beautiful picture through HD but the SD always had many artifacts. After going through the user settings on the HD cable box I found the Sony to have far superior capabilities in cleaning up the SD reception than using the Motorola cable DVR. The setting I changed to produce a much cleaner picture is the:

4:3 OVERRIDE in the Cable Box User Settings which tells the DVR how to output SD programming

This setting was set to 480p and by setting to 480i and allowing the Sony to handle the upconverting instead of the cable box cleaned up the SD reception very nicely.

Don't assume that upconverting SD through the STB will give you an improved picture. The DVR STB upconversion is not the best. The Sony display seems to do a better job of converting SD material to it's native format with fewer artifacts.
Reaper19 is offline  
post #568 of 4486 Old 10-30-2007, 07:22 AM
Newbie
 
snelldogg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Is it possible that I have to enable the HDMI out on the cable box in the service menu?
snelldogg is offline  
post #569 of 4486 Old 10-30-2007, 08:03 AM
AVS Special Member
 
kjgarrison's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Northwest Wisconsin
Posts: 2,243
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post


6. I do not travel to the twin cities or recommend others.
I also asked if you thought your equipment/method was necessary, or the best way, to calibrate the A3000's. I believe you may have already said that in an earlier post.
I wouldn't even ask for somebody to travel from Texas to calibrate my TV, but I thought perhaps the maker of your high end calibration setup might have something on their website about where their unit is available (not to buy, but to contact a calibrator.)


7. Actually the number of adjustments in the user menu of this display is extensive and too complex in my opinion. It is one of the reasons this display is so complex to calibrate.
I had said I thought the TV had a paucity of adjustments (based on color adjustments primarily). I do realize there are a lot of ways to change black and white, grey, etc. I'm curious though. Were you able to do your calibration from the user menus, or do you also have to go into the service menu?

Thank you.
kjg
kjgarrison is offline  
post #570 of 4486 Old 10-30-2007, 08:47 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
DavidHir's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,397
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 159 Post(s)
Liked: 424
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClaytonMG View Post

I didn't see anyone respond to the person that said Standard was cleaner... So I have to ask, why is Standard actually sharper? I turn the sharpness all the way down (to reduce any sort of edge hancing) and still Standard is way sharper... Right now I am trying to see if it adds any artifacting or anything as it is much sharper.

Also, would anyone recommend using the Black Corrector? So far I haven't seen much use for it...


EDIT: Alright so after doing some testing with the standard setting, I notice some major issues with it. One it added what appeared to be some sort of edge enhancement, Two it added lines through curved objects. Totally not worth the sharper picture and glad I have been using Custom this whole time.

I'm using custom mode with sharpness at 30. It seems about right. I still may turn it down a bit more as HD DVD DVE still shows some very, very minor EE at 30 even from sitting 9.5 feet back. I find sharpness hard to calibrate with the Sony BD pattern and the white background (although maybe I'm not interpreting it correctly). I'm using the A2 and PS3.

DavidHir is offline  
Reply Rear Projection Units

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off