Need Help with my unit. I turn it on and it stays on with very good picture then all the sudden sound and picture is lost. I try to turn it off and it seems like it goes into some kind of reset mode. i hear it trying to re-boot? Then 10-15 mins later will come back on and do the same thing. I at a loss trying to figure this out. Unit is about 3 years old andgets about 4-5 hours of use per day. Football season is coming and I need some help.
it maybe getting to hot.
try putting a fan behind the lamp to push air in.
uninterruptible power supply will keep the same voltage when there is a
1.Power failure: defined as a total loss of input voltage.
2.Surge: defined as a momentary or sustained increase in the main voltage.
3.Sag: defined as a momentary or sustained reduction in input voltage.
4.Spikes, defined as a brief high voltage excursion.
5.Noise, defined as a high frequency transient or oscillation, usually injected into the line by nearby equipment.
6.Frequency instability: defined as temporary changes in the mains frequency.
I ordered a couple of replacement fans from CWC-Group.com that should be here in a few days. I have yet to open the back of the TV - but don't anticipate any problems with that.
As I understand it, the Fan#3 is identical to Fan#1. So I might swap both fans out and keep the old working one as an emergency spare.
Will post again if I learn anything significant.
I have a HL61A750. It has served me well the past few years. Occasionally it will freeze up. I would then have to actually unplug and replug it in order to get it responsive again. This occurred mainly if I swapped between too many sources too quickly. The only commands I usually send to the tv is on\\off and source change. All my tuners and etc are set top boxes.
Recently I hooked up an ota antenna to the tv. So now I'm actually sending commands to the tv. It starts off working fine. After I switch between a few channels, it then starts switching to channel 2 or 3 after my channel switch. If I keep going, the tv becomes unresponsive and I have to unplug and replug the tv in order to get it responsive again.
Does anybody else have these issues?
If it helps, I'm running firmware 1006.1
I bought this set in January 2009 from crutchfield, and everything was hunky-dory till a month ago. We came back from a 4 day vacation during which TV was plugged in, and when turned it on, everything had RED color swimming over it. I stayed that way for 10 minutes and then picture returned to normal.
Every time I switched on the TV, till the components could get "warm enough" I guess, there would be red shadows all over screen.
Now the situation is that the RED color does not go away even if the TV is ON for 2-3 hrs. Needless to say, this is happening for all inputs - cable, component AV, HDMI. I tried resetting it to Factory settings, no improvement
I went to service menu and amazingly, the picture was perfect as soon as I entered service menu! All test patterns good, all colors sharp, no distortions, no shadows, no RED color all over! As soon as I exit service menu, the RED color is again omni-present.
I have searched all over internet, but could not figure out the probable cause. Can anyone please help me know what could have gone wrong?
I am pasting an image of what it looks like -
Never had any issues w/ mine, but getting nervous about issues that others are having.
If I were going big again, LED LCD or plasma all the way...never going rear projection with bulbs...the cost of the non-RP sets have come down enough to make it comparable to what I paid for my Sammy when new.
I don't want RP again because of the dust inside issue that comes up in a couple years...I want a sealed screen
PS3 ID: phlydude
My 60GB PS3 died from over heating - I have a strong feeling Folding didn't help
Where does BB have the 73" Mits for under $700? Online the lowest I've seen is $999.
My question is does anybody know what the voltage of the power supply to the ballast board should be? The service manual I have is full of mistakes including the number of pins and voltage on the ballast power supply connector.
I measured 260V at switch-on dropping to about 210V when the lamp is at full brightness. I wonder if this is a little too high and causing the premature failures.
Lol, yeah. I know to toggle between the 2 on that samsung you need to change the HDMI level between low and normal. I never found anything conclusive as to which does which. Do far in my testing "Full" on the Xbox One or PS4 makes the screen darker. Normally I have my Samsung set to HDMI level = low for richer blacks.
I have a 6 year old HL61A750 - it has served my extremely well - i recently capitalized on an opportunity and bought a 2-3 yr old 73" Mits DLP - I know I should sell this set, but I am struggling to pull the trigger because these are such good sets . . . . :-)
plus, I'm worried, I'll need to buy a new bulb for the Mits a week after selling the Sammy - I suspect 'selling' on the forums is considered a violation - but if your in chicago and interested send me a PM - I would like to see this set go to someone for parts / supplies - as before I purchased the 73" Mits - I was shopping for a HL67A750