Originally Posted by finsmaniac02
Yeah, I know the "movie" mode is just someone's settings... I do use it so that you have access to the xvycc setting (you don't on normal, why do they insist on not giving access to all the settings?) but I change other settings (brightness, etc) based on my findings/a more professional calibrator's settings (such as yourself)
Is there any source material that supports xvYCC? I'm almost positive nothing on Blu-ray or such does. I'm certainly not a professional calibrator or I'd be charging.
I guess the better way to phrase what I was asking is exactly how you put it... the added depth and black crush VS slightly washed out but shadow detail. I find it hard to decide which one of those I really prefer.
For me I try to obtain an image that feels natural. One I would expect to see if I was viewing the image in real life. Using various test patterns will get you fairly close to this but ultimately your eyes and preferences are more important than setting the display to its best ability. Who knows based on the display it might not come close to being able to display what was actually intended.
I would like to know more about "dynamic contrast" though, everyone always left it off up until you talked about it. I wonder if you could share some of your knowledge/point me in the right direction for knowing more.
I haven't really dug into this set since I may be returning it (because of the reset issue) but I think Dynamic Contrast works similar to a dynamic iris. According to Samsung...
"The “Dynamic Contrast” application reproduces optimized contrast by detecting the characteristics and contrast level of input signals."
In most cases the more contrast the better (until you crush either end) so setting the option to High makes sense to me.
Once set then adjust Contrast and Brightness so you aren't crushing either.
I am also very curious on what you find with gamma levels. I wonder if gamma is different based on what input you use and your other settings. With a bluray movie on HDMI1 thru my ps3, I set gamma to +1. This seems to ADD contrast and pop, while also keeping fine details and also has a much LESS washed out look than 0. But then through component 2 (my cable box) I leave gamma at 0 because gamma seems to be more of a linear progression through brighter/more washed out and 0 seems decent.
Gamma is one tricky bugger! However I think the setting isn't unique per input. The tricky part is you simply can't throw up a test pattern (in most cases) and see which setting works the best. This is because the actual effect of the Gamma setting is only visible after watching a variety of content. Light, dark and all types of mixed images.
As an example last night when I watched the night race I froze the image several times and tried various Gamma settings. With one image one setting would look terrific and with the next image it would look awful. So without extensive testing I simply left it at 0 which more than likely is closer to the desired curve than the others.
One thing to keep in mind is if you simply change the Gamma setting without going back and adjusting Contrast and Brightness you aren't really giving each setting a fair chance.