The Unofficial Sony GDM-FW900 thread - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 177 Old 11-20-2008, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhirsche View Post

My monitor (GDM-FW900) exhibits this same problem as well. The problem seems to occur when the monitor has been shut-off, or in standby long enought for it to cool down completely (especially in a cold room... say less than 60F.) Upon turning it back on cold, the screen will slowly loose focus, make a loud POP (like a static shock) - which returns it to focus. It will do this several times for up to an hour, until the monitor is warm, and then correct itself with no syptoms returning until the next shutdown.

My fix has been to leave the monitor on all the time, showing the screensaver. Also seems to happen more often in the winter (dry weather / static buildup?)

Bump for an answer....

That's it exactly. Personally, I don't like it running 24/7 and the wear/tear on it doing that. Would love to just get it repaired if I could ever get clarification on the exact problem / fix and find someone willing to do it.
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post #32 of 177 Old 11-29-2008, 06:49 PM
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Hey folks question: Can either of this monitor's inputs accept a component signal? I ask because I have one device I need to connect to it where my only option is component. So I wondered if I connected said device's component cable to a VGA adapter or 5BNC adapter if the monitor would recognize the signal. I'd really prefer not to dole out $60 for a Component to VGA transcoder since I'm already paying $60 for an HDFury so I can connect my HDMI devices.

Always remember: The pessimist is never disappointed.
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post #33 of 177 Old 12-01-2008, 01:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sumrtym View Post

That's it exactly. Personally, I don't like it running 24/7 and the wear/tear on it doing that. Would love to just get it repaired if I could ever get clarification on the exact problem / fix and find someone willing to do it.

The problems that most of you are experiencing with the GDM-FW900 and the focusing issue followed by a loud "pop" is due to a short in the tube caused by a faulty flyback.

What needs to be done is: first get rid of the short (a Sencore CR7000 Beamrite or a Sencore CR70 is needed), then replace the flyback. Once the flyback is replaced, then the focussing can be adjusted by displaying a MEME background from a video signal generator, and then manually adjusting the Vertical and Horizontal focussing knobs on the flyback. After that, secure the knobs by placing a small amount of white paint (in form of a paste).

I do not recommend leaving the unit on at all times or even on standby mode (sleep mode), as it will shorten the life of the tube. Power the unit down (turn it off) when not in use.

Do not attempt to work inside a CRT if you are not an skilled Tech or Engineer. The voltages inside the CRT are lethal and will kill you!

The flyback is still available thru Sony Parts distribution channels for about $98.00.

Hope this helps...

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post #34 of 177 Old 12-17-2008, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unkle Vito! View Post

The problems that most of you are experiencing with the GDM-FW900 and the focusing issue followed by a loud "pop" is due to a short in the tube caused by a faulty flyback.

What needs to be done is: first get rid of the short (a Sencore CR7000 Beamrite or a Sencore CR70 is needed), then replace the flyback. Once the flyback is replaced, then the focussing can be adjusted by displaying a MEME background from a video signal generator, and then manually adjusting the Vertical and Horizontal focussing knobs on the flyback. After that, secure the knobs by placing a small amount of white paint (in form of a paste).

I do not recommend leaving the unit on at all times or even on standby mode (sleep mode), as it will shorten the life of the tube. Power the unit down (turn it off) when not in use.

Do not attempt to work inside a CRT if you are not an skilled Tech or Engineer. The voltages inside the CRT are lethal and will kill you!

The flyback is still available thru Sony Parts distribution channels for about $98.00.

Hope this helps...

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I thought flybacks weren't replaceable, only things you attached to them to help correct the problem?

And now if I could find someone in Kansas City would actually REPAIR it.....
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post #35 of 177 Old 12-18-2008, 01:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PvtChurch View Post

Hey folks question: Can either of this monitor's inputs accept a component signal? I ask because I have one device I need to connect to it where my only option is component. So I wondered if I connected said device's component cable to a VGA adapter or 5BNC adapter if the monitor would recognize the signal. I'd really prefer not to dole out $60 for a Component to VGA transcoder since I'm already paying $60 for an HDFury so I can connect my HDMI devices.

This monitor only accepts RGBHV via either the VGA or 5xBNC connectors. There's no colorspace/sync conversion circuitry inside this monitor to do a YPrPb -> RGBHV conversion. You'll need an external device to do this, like you mentioned above. What's the device you need to connect? Maybe there's a workaround someone here can think of?
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post #36 of 177 Old 12-24-2008, 09:54 AM
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I've just been noticing a new problem with my FW900. Twice over the last few days the display has gone out of focus over the course of about 1 minute or so. To a point of complete unreadability. Then in each case I noticed a soft electronic popping sound and all of a sudden the display was back into razor sharp focus. Any clue as to what this is?

Duh, now that I read the last few posts I see that jhirsche and sumrtym have the same problem. Same question to Unkle Vito: I thought the flyback was not replaceable?

If I get the flyback is there anyone in the South Jersey (USA) area who has the know-how and equipment to repair?
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post #37 of 177 Old 12-24-2008, 12:27 PM
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Another day another question: Has anybody been able to compare the original HDFury to the new HDFury2 using a 360 or PS3? It looks tempting but I'm skeptical about how much of a benefit the new model offers over the old one. Especially considering I can get the original for $60 and the HDFury2 costs $150.

Always remember: The pessimist is never disappointed.
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post #38 of 177 Old 12-27-2008, 11:59 AM
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The focus/popping problem began happening with my monitor a couple of months ago.

After it started, it would take a few minutes for the focus to stabilize with the "pop". It gradually took longer for the monitor to pop.

A few weeks ago, the monitor wouldn't pop at all after hours of waiting. I had to shut it off and on a few times to get it back in focus. The focus problem would mostly appear at alternating power-ons (every other day).

Finally, I decided to just let it stay unfocused, and left the monitor on 24/7 with a blank screensaver. According to previous comments I had read, the problem was caused by a short in the tube, and leaving the monitor on for days or a week could possibly burn through the short.

Afterwards, I noticed that the picture was appearing a lot less blurry during the times it was out of focus. I continued to leave the monitor on for a day or two whenever it started up unfocused, with the contrast at 0 and brightness at 100 or 0.

Within the past 2 weeks, the problem has not re-appeared. The monitor has started up in focus every time. Maybe there's some life in it yet.
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post #39 of 177 Old 01-01-2009, 12:11 PM
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Weird. I have a Multiscan g520 that had the Focus - POP issue for a couple of weeks.

... Before I continue into the next paragraph, let me point out that I live in Texas. Land of insect annoyances.

In my case it was being caused by... wait for it... /fire ants./ They tend to be attracted to electrical fields, and in this particular instance, my computer set up was along a wall closest to a large nest of fire ants out in the yard. During one Out of Focus - Pop session I looked behind the set in frustration and noticed a line of fire ants crawling up along the power cord of the monitor and inside, presumably on a suicide march.

Found the fire ant nest out in the yard, destroyed it. Problem solved.

Anyway, I just purchased a GDM-FW900 for my set up, so I'll probably be keeping an eye on this thread.

As always, thanks for taking the time to read whatever I've posted above this signature.
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post #40 of 177 Old 01-01-2009, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibilance View Post

Weird. I have a Multiscan g520 that had the Focus - POP issue for a couple of weeks.

... Before I continue into the next paragraph, let me point out that I live in Texas. Land of insect annoyances.

In my case it was being caused by... wait for it... /fire ants./ They tend to be attracted to electrical fields, and in this particular instance, my computer set up was along a wall closest to a large nest of fire ants out in the yard. During one Out of Focus - Pop session I looked behind the set in frustration and noticed a line of fire ants crawling up along the power cord of the monitor and inside, presumably on a suicide march.

Found the fire ant nest out in the yard, destroyed it. Problem solved.

Anyway, I just purchased a GDM-FW900 for my set up, so I'll probably be keeping an eye on this thread.

!!! This deserves a sticky!!!
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post #41 of 177 Old 01-04-2009, 08:27 PM
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I just bought one of these beasts and I'll be seeing it for the first time tomorrow. I'll update you guys with my first impressions. I'll be so mad if won't focus without "popping." Hopefully it will be a $75 well spent.
-Grog

"Honey? The kids and I really love the home theater, but do you have to yell, "Muahaha... ahahah.. ah ha ha HA HA HAAA!" every time we watch a movie?" -PeriSoft
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post #42 of 177 Old 01-10-2009, 04:10 PM
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Hi there,

I found this thread whilst searching for some solutions to a problem I have with my FW900. I've just put together a new system and it seems that I can't go above 1440x900 properly. Any time I go to a higher resolution the screen has to 'move' around the desktop to display different areas. I've installed the monitor and graphics card drivres, but still no improvement.

I'm using a Sapphire HD4670 which isn't amazing, but it should display much higher. I'm stumped - anyone have any clues??

Chris
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post #43 of 177 Old 01-11-2009, 04:41 AM
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You don't have proper monitor drivers. Try unchecking "Hide modes not supported by this monitor" and using MultiRes to switch resolutions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver
The nice thing about standards is that there are so many to choose from.
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post #44 of 177 Old 01-11-2009, 10:40 AM
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I just bought a NEW Sony e540 on ebay and it has the problem that it goes blurry and then pops after a minute or so and then it is ok, for a while.

Anyone have an update on this issue?

Thanks
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post #45 of 177 Old 01-11-2009, 11:42 AM
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As far as I can tell I do have the correct drivers installed - I'm currently using the one available on this site...

h t t p : / / esupport.sony.com/perl/swu-download.pl?mdl=GDMFW900&upd_id=1219&os_id=7

...but if you know of a better one please let me know. I've unhidden the 'unavailable' modes and still the same thing happens.

I don't mind working in 1440x900 but I'd much prefer a higher res.

(Apologies for the odd url, it wouldn't let one properly.)
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post #46 of 177 Old 02-05-2009, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sumrtym View Post

I thought flybacks weren't replaceable, only things you attached to them to help correct the problem?

And now if I could find someone in Kansas City would actually REPAIR it.....

You can replace the flybacks in all CRT monitors and TV sets. It is a standard and straight forward repair.
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post #47 of 177 Old 02-05-2009, 10:29 PM
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Please look at my entry above which describes this common problem and the corrective action.
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post #48 of 177 Old 02-05-2009, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rspad1 View Post

I just bought a NEW Sony e540 on ebay and it has the problem that it goes blurry and then pops after a minute or so and then it is ok, for a while.

Anyone have an update on this issue?

Thanks

Please look at my entry above which describes this common problem and the corrective action.
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post #49 of 177 Old 02-05-2009, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyptony View Post

I've just been noticing a new problem with my FW900. Twice over the last few days the display has gone out of focus over the course of about 1 minute or so. To a point of complete unreadability. Then in each case I noticed a soft electronic popping sound and all of a sudden the display was back into razor sharp focus. Any clue as to what this is?

Duh, now that I read the last few posts I see that jhirsche and sumrtym have the same problem. Same question to Unkle Vito: I thought the flyback was not replaceable?

If I get the flyback is there anyone in the South Jersey (USA) area who has the know-how and equipment to repair?

The flybacks (FBT) on the GDM-FW900 are fully replaceable, and it is a standard and straight forward repair. To replace the (FBT) on the GDM-FW900, you must have knowledge of electronics, access to the schematics, and high soldering skills. Working inside a CRT is very dangerous and I recommend this type of work to be done by a qualified technician in order to avoid damage to the tube/internal components, and/or injuries including electrocution.

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
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post #50 of 177 Old 02-09-2009, 07:29 AM
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Access to schematics isn't a must, but agreed, you need very good electronics and soldering skills and proper equipment. The flyback can give you quite a zap even after the set is turned off. If you never soldered inside a TV set before, i suggest you call a technician.

Quote:
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post #51 of 177 Old 03-24-2009, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathesar View Post

Great monitor, mine is still going strong. I used to run my Xbox360 to the FW900's VGA input and it looked great. What I did was bought a BNC cable for my PC so i could just toggle back and forth between inputs.

I recently picked up a FW900 and I bought a VGA cable for my Xbox 360. When I hook it up to the FW900's VGA port, the Xbox image is too wide for the screen. I know the Xbox outputs 1080p from the VGA cable. No adjusting of the image using either the Xbox settings or the monitors control panel fixes it. I'm new to these awesome monitors, so what am I doing wrong?
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post #52 of 177 Old 03-25-2009, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unkle Vito! View Post

I do not recommend leaving the unit on at all times or even on standby mode (sleep mode), as it will shorten the life of the tube. Power the unit down (turn it off) when not in use.

Excessive power cycling like this seems like nothing but a recipe to burn out a degaussing coil prematurely.

When these late-model Sony CRTs wake up after having been left in sleep mode for a while, it's apparent from the sound of static that they are applying new HV to the tube. If I'm wrong, please explain the very low power consumption figures for sleep mode.
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post #53 of 177 Old 03-25-2009, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonarmadillo View Post

I recently picked up a FW900 and I bought a VGA cable for my Xbox 360. When I hook it up to the FW900's VGA port, the Xbox image is too wide for the screen. I know the Xbox outputs 1080p from the VGA cable. No adjusting of the image using either the Xbox settings or the monitors control panel fixes it. I'm new to these awesome monitors, so what am I doing wrong?

I'm sure it has screen size adjustments to reduce the overscan. Are you saying even when the H and V screen size is minimized that it's still overscanned?
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post #54 of 177 Old 05-07-2009, 04:22 PM
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The g2 value is a voltage control I think. I got all the gadgets and hooked them up. Thankfully my HP A7217A (the hp version of the GDM-FW900) has an opening on the case to give access to the ECS connection. I successfully got windas operating and proceeded to change the G2 value. A NOTE! Do backup the original settings. I needed the backup copy. I made multiple changes and somewhere in the process the changes were not taking hold and I had to recycle the monitor to get it working again but it worked at a low level. I located my backup, entered the G2 value I wanted and windas worked correctly. Without the backup I think the monitor would have had to be brought to a repair place. Anyway here is what I noticed about changing the G2 value. My original value was G2=156 and when I lowered it below G2=151 I could not successfully set the colors using my Eye One Display2 color calibrator. Also when I lowered the G2 value the brightness calibration of the I1D2 would increase thereby keeping the underlying brightness of the screen the same. What I ended up doing was setting the brightness to 45 and contrast to 95 and the G2 value to 152 and used the I1D2 calibrator to set the colors. I had the monitor set to 9300K but the calibrator adjusted it to 6500K . Lowering the voltage lessens the intensity of everything. What I have ended up with is a monitor that reaches a good black when the brightness is reduced to 0 but the overall picture is too dark. As the brightness is increased the screen lightens up. At a brightness setting of 40-45 the screen is slightly gray but tolerable. Of course what I really want is a bright screen with black blacks great colors and crisp whites (like my CRT TV). Is this possible? Actually I've reduced the brightness to 35 with good results (and I could reduce it further) but there is still something dissatisfying about the picture but at least it's not washed out.
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post #55 of 177 Old 06-29-2009, 06:14 PM
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It seems that Windas is no longer available at "The usual place". I would post the link but this is my first post.

Does anybody know of another source where we can download it or can somebody upload it to the forum?

Thanx
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post #56 of 177 Old 08-28-2009, 12:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtbradyl View Post

The g2 value is a voltage control I think. I got all the gadgets and hooked them up. Thankfully my HP A7217A (the hp version of the GDM-FW900) has an opening on the case to give access to the ECS connection. I successfully got windas operating and proceeded to change the G2 value. A NOTE! Do backup the original settings. I needed the backup copy. I made multiple changes and somewhere in the process the changes were not taking hold and I had to recycle the monitor to get it working again but it worked at a low level. I located my backup, entered the G2 value I wanted and windas worked correctly. Without the backup I think the monitor would have had to be brought to a repair place. Anyway here is what I noticed about changing the G2 value. My original value was G2=156 and when I lowered it below G2=151 I could not successfully set the colors using my Eye One Display2 color calibrator. Also when I lowered the G2 value the brightness calibration of the I1D2 would increase thereby keeping the underlying brightness of the screen the same. What I ended up doing was setting the brightness to 45 and contrast to 95 and the G2 value to 152 and used the I1D2 calibrator to set the colors. I had the monitor set to 9300K but the calibrator adjusted it to 6500K . Lowering the voltage lessens the intensity of everything. What I have ended up with is a monitor that reaches a good black when the brightness is reduced to 0 but the overall picture is too dark. As the brightness is increased the screen lightens up. At a brightness setting of 40-45 the screen is slightly gray but tolerable. Of course what I really want is a bright screen with black blacks great colors and crisp whites (like my CRT TV). Is this possible? Actually I've reduced the brightness to 35 with good results (and I could reduce it further) but there is still something dissatisfying about the picture but at least it's not washed out.

Try running Image Restoration.
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post #57 of 177 Old 08-28-2009, 03:49 AM
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Yes, the Image Restoration (called Color Return on mine) did wonders on my IBM P275. Before all color modes, even 5000K, would look bluish. After, 6500K looks as close to natural colors as it gets.

By the way, if you have the Windas software could you upload it somewhere? My monitor would need a few more tweaks.

EDIT: I have found Windas at http://www.myblog.bloggybloggy.com/h...ns-26-09-2007/ , scroll down and you will see a download link. Now time to head to my local electronics store and get a MAX232.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver
The nice thing about standards is that there are so many to choose from.
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post #58 of 177 Old 09-18-2009, 07:17 AM
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There's one for sale in my area for $275....should I bite?
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post #59 of 177 Old 09-18-2009, 04:07 PM
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I just picked up mine.. bought for 6.90 at an online Auction.. i still cant believe it.. its has a small scratch, looks like its been made by a box cutter, but i understand you can remove the anti-glare foil, and it definitely needs "the famous" contrast editing.. slight focus issues in the left upper corner... i wonder if that's something that can be adjusted...

@epsilon72, i see them go for 150 to 400 on 2ehand sites..if you want to own the best monitor ever made, i would definitely check it out.. if you can lift it..buy it
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post #60 of 177 Old 09-21-2009, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sIRwa2 View Post

@epsilon72, i see them go for 150 to 400 on 2ehand sites..if you want to own the best monitor ever made, i would definitely check it out.. if you can lift it..buy it

The guy who is selling it says he might give it to me for $200.
If it's in good shape, I'm going to pick it up tomorrow or the day after

I'm using a 16:9 1080p 21" TN panel right now, and although it's okay for it's price and has an HDMI input for playing PS3 if I wanted to, its colors and viewing angles leave much to be desired. I'm really looking forward to switching back to CRT
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