HDMI on any CRT TV with component inputs - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 74 Old 02-14-2012, 09:19 AM - Thread Starter
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You should not have blown the fuse unless you did a short in the soldering or the fuse was blown even before you installed it. The amps of the power supply do not relate to the fuse value... its only there to know how much current the supply can handle... the higher the voltage supplied, the less the current.

Anyhow it shouldnt take more than 100mA when not connected to a video signal. When connected, it still shouldnt require more than 500mA. I use mine often for TV's i repair which have no HDMI inputs.

If u blew the fuse without connecting to a HDMI signal you have a short for sure.. check soldering and wiring.
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post #32 of 74 Old 02-14-2012, 09:28 AM
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Ok, I'll double check tonight. It's possible that it arrived blown, I didn't check. Since its surface mount, it will already be hard to replace, but since it's a fuse, I'm afraid the heat from the soldering may blow any new fuse. I've considered getting a new fuse with leads as that would make soldering it much easier.

So, my options are:
1. Get a new fuse installed and use the same power supply.
2. Get a new fuse installed and buy a new power supply, either 9V or 12V max 600mA output.
3. Keep old power supply, buy whole new board on ebay.
4. Get a new power supply, and buy a whole new board on ebay.
5. Buy the monoprice unit.

I'll doublecheck my wiring tonight. I'll also post pictures of the completed enclosure.

It would be a shame to go the monoprice route and not use the enclosure I spent time on.

This is the power supply I currently have
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...rds=62-1134-ND

I spoke with a couple hardware guys where I work, and one suggested that an in-rush of current when I first plugged it in could have caused it to blow. I can't tell from the part numbers what type of fuse it is, if it's fast, normal or slow. Digikey for 32VDC 1A fuses only have surface mount and only fast acting and slow blow.

I really wish I had known if it was blown all along or not. When an ebay auction says tested, I wonder what they do to test it.

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post #33 of 74 Old 02-14-2012, 09:49 AM - Thread Starter
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The board requires almost no current at all when plugged in... it cant blow a 1A fuse by itself. It is very possible the heat of soldering made the fuse blow, but its unlikely...

The only thing i do not know with the board you are using is if it turns on by itself once connected to the 12V supply. The boards i used had a MUTE and that is not present on your boards.
As far as wiring goes, the only error you could have done is connect your ground to Audio Ground instead of supply Ground. Be sure your supply is connected to pin 5 and Gnd to pin4.
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post #34 of 74 Old 02-14-2012, 10:00 AM
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Yeah, I haven't soldered anything to the board, so I'm pretty sure that wouldn't have caused it to blow.

I wonder how it would turn on otherwise, if not after connecting power.

Here's the schematic for it http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/786...2a10pboard.jpg

DC, Audio, Y, Pb, and Pr ground are connected to the same ground on the board, so I didn't buy any kind of isolated RCA jacks or anything for my metal case.

Edit: I wonder if the reset pint for IC5301 needs to be jumpered. I wasn't sure what the IC5301 would do if the 9-pin header wasn't there. If I need to clock data in on pins 2 and 3, I could be in trouble.

Edit 2: Looking at the schematic for the TV, the reset, SDA, and SCL lines all end up back at the B board. The I2C lines look like they connect to the B board I2C bus. The reset pin is labeled "GND/HDMI_RST" and goes to pin 79 of the B board CPU labeled "HDMI_RST". Page 25 of the manual http://www.scribd.com/doc/39959521/SONY-LCD-KLV-S32A10 I wonder if I need to not have reset floating. All of this assumes I fix the fuse issue.

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post #35 of 74 Old 02-14-2012, 12:44 PM - Thread Starter
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I really do not think it needs the I2C lines. Mine were not connected and everything worked perfectly. As for RESET, i had that on my board but it was not used. I assume also it will turn on right away when given the 12V.
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post #36 of 74 Old 02-14-2012, 01:00 PM
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When I get home, I'm going to double check all solder joints and make sure nothing is shorted, double check the power supply is putting out close to 12v without a load. Then I'll use my current meter to jumper over the fuse and see what kind of current it's drawing without anything connected. And if all that goes ok, then try it with it cabled up.

Yeah, I was really hoping that micro controller wouldn't need an I2C command to start or anything. I wonder if the I2C is used during normal operation. I've got several Philips service manuals, and they have circuit descriptions; kinda annoying the Sony manuals don't.

Edit: Did you end up making a converter out of a P board? The schematics for the UD board I've seen don't show a chip that has I2C leaving the UD board.

Edit 2: Nevermind, it looks like the I2C SDA and SCL lines leave on a separate 4pin connector on the UD board.

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post #37 of 74 Old 02-14-2012, 01:59 PM - Thread Starter
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If i get my hands on a P board i will try making a converter out of it. I have a lot of Sony circuit boards here so i may have a P board in stock.
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post #38 of 74 Old 02-14-2012, 02:16 PM
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Awesome, that would be a good sanity check for me, so I would know if I'm really screwed or not.

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post #39 of 74 Old 02-14-2012, 06:37 PM
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Ok, results of bypassing the fuse with my current meter:
Without load, draws 80mA
With HDMI Load on start, draws 80mA
With HDMI Load normal operation, draws ~240-270mA (takes ~5s to 'boot')

This was using my 12V 1A max supply. It output a solid 12.1v with or without a load.

Bypassing the fuse, I got a flawless(*) picture on my HD CRT with it!
(*) The image is shifted to the left, by just a few percent.

So, now I need to either jumper over the fuse, buy a new fuse and attempt to install it, or just buy another board (no guarantee a new one would have an intact fuse).

Anyways, here are pictures of my box:

HDMI box RCA Jack by oryan_dunn, on Flickr


HDMI box internals by oryan_dunn, on Flickr


HDMI box front by oryan_dunn, on Flickr


HDMI box back panel by oryan_dunn, on Flickr

Pictures taken with my HTC Amaze 4G, which takes pretty impressive pictures, especially macro shots.

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post #40 of 74 Old 02-14-2012, 07:13 PM
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Ok, tested the box on my 26" Philips LCD. HDMI direct from HDDVD, the image was centered with 2.5% on each side overscanned. Using the P board, the image was 4.5% on the left and 0.5% on the right, representing a 2% shift to the left. I wonder if the video processor on the B board compensated for this shift.

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post #41 of 74 Old 02-15-2012, 06:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Pretty nice construction there oryan_dunn!
I'd recommend you buy fuses from digikey directly and mount them in series of your DC connector.
Fuses like this are great fuses to mount in series with wires.
http://search.digikey.com/ca/en/prod...1173-ND/809317
This is a 500mA but there are 630mA, 1A, etc. I recommend 500mA cause theres usually no way it should take that much current.
They are easy to solder and dont break when soldering. I use them everyday.

Technically, this takes so little current that its almost not worth it to put a fuse... even if it does break down, the worse itll do is have no picture and your 12V Transformer may break down, but even then i think it will continue working even after a dead short. We're talking 80-300mA here...

Im glad the picture turned out great except for that shift! Id love to know if the P board supports higher resolutions like 1080p... Of course your TV would have to be a 1080p compatible for that to work. I know the UD board stops at 720p so i was wondering if your P board was the same... since its much more recent.
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post #42 of 74 Old 02-15-2012, 07:28 AM
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Ok, I can test it on my Samsung 1080p in the basement tonight. It accepts 1080p over component as that is how I have my xbox connected. It'll also be interesting to see if that TV with it's "screen fit" 1:1 pixel mapping would handle the left shift. It almost seems like the box just doesn't add the required front porch to the analog signal. I plan on pairing this with the PHD-8VX, which can shift the picture and correct for overscan, so hopefully the slight shift won't matter.

Out curiosity, have you tested the UD board with an overscan pattern on a TV with both HDMI and component to see if it has the same 2% left shift?

Edit: TIP: If you do decide to use chassis mount items like I did, make sure you thread the nut and washer onto wires before you solder on the center conductor. I'm no Houdini and can't pass a solid ring through a solid wire.

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post #43 of 74 Old 02-15-2012, 09:49 AM - Thread Starter
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I'll check it as soon as i can. As far as my observations so far, i didnt notice any left shift, but this was tested on LCD's and my XP37 Xtra.. which has position/size of raster on the remote and a underscan/overscan button.. so even if the signal sent was off, i adjusted it with the remote.
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post #44 of 74 Old 02-15-2012, 06:28 PM
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Just checked on my Samsung LCD that can do 1080p over component, the max the BluRay would do through the P board is 1080i.

Also, the TV in just scan 1:1 mode showed a 2% overscan on the left and a black pillarbox down the left.

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post #45 of 74 Old 02-15-2012, 08:34 PM
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Ok, one more thing. I had noticed that after I shorted the fuse, sometimes the box would work, other times it wouldn't. I'd unplug/plug in the power, hdmi, turn off the device, and various combinations. I've got my 26" Philips LCD with HDMI next to it, and it seemed the only way I could get my box to work reliably after removing/applying power to the P board was to plug the HDMI into the LCD, and then into the box. This got me thinking that after powerup it didn't handshake correctly. So, I stripped a bit of wire from the reset line, after powerup, let it sit and it had no picture. I then momentarily shorted the reset to ground and a second later had picture. I only ever had to do that after the box powered down. Swapping devices, powering down devices etc all worked just fine as long as power to the converter hadn't been removed.

So, in addition to a fuse, I'm now going to get a chassis mount switch so I can reset it after a power on.

http://search.digikey.com/us/en/prod...634-ND/2235506

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post #46 of 74 Old 02-16-2012, 09:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, since it has no mute option like the UD board it maybe needs to reset itself each time it closes down to handshake again.
Once i tried a special resolution with my UD board. (i think it was 1280x1024 or something, a resolution outputted by the XBOX 360 in HDMI) and the board stopped responding. I shorted the reset to the 5v and it started working normally again.
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post #47 of 74 Old 02-18-2012, 05:03 PM
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Ok, got the reset button installed:

HDMI Box by oryan_dunn, on Flickr

After a power-on, I can hit the button and HDCP will work until I remove power to the HDMI converter.

Now, to solve the left shift.... If the UD board doesn't have the shift, I recommend people build a converter out of that instead.

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post #48 of 74 Old 02-22-2012, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neccrttv View Post

I'll check it as soon as i can. As far as my observations so far, i didnt notice any left shift, but this was tested on LCD's and my XP37 Xtra.. which has position/size of raster on the remote and a underscan/overscan button.. so even if the signal sent was off, i adjusted it with the remote.

neccrttv, have you had a chance to check out the UD board? I used both my Philips LCD and my Samsung 1080p set, and both showed a 2% left shift. The Sammy in 1:1 (just scan) mode showed a black bar on the right and the left of the picture was cut off. It seems that all these TVs assume proper front/back porch timing, which this P board doesn't seem to provide.

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post #49 of 74 Old 02-22-2012, 12:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Let me give it a try... ill give you results later today
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post #50 of 74 Old 02-22-2012, 07:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Tested my UD board on every TV i could. (1080p Plasma, LCD and CRT Proj.) I dont have any black bars or loss of picture... must be the P board. I get perfect centering at every resolution, be it 480p, 720p or 1080i. Of course, your board has the advantage of not requiring a separate buffer like mine... if your ok with the image being uncentered...
I recently bought a cheap HDMI to VGA/Component converter from amazon... and well, my UD board i can say is definitevely better in terms of picture quality at higher resolutions. While the converter supported 1080p... it obviously did not have the bandwith... so image quality was poor and only good at 1080i and not too bad at 720p. I think ill stick with my UD board when i will need to display HD sources.
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post #51 of 74 Old 02-22-2012, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neccrttv View Post

Tested my UD board on every TV i could. (1080p Plasma, LCD and CRT Proj.) I dont have any black bars or loss of picture... must be the P board. I get perfect centering at every resolution, be it 480p, 720p or 1080i. Of course, your board has the advantage of not requiring a separate buffer like mine... if your ok with the image being uncentered...
I recently bought a cheap HDMI to VGA/Component converter from amazon... and well, my UD board i can say is definitevely better in terms of picture quality at higher resolutions. While the converter supported 1080p... it obviously did not have the bandwith... so image quality was poor and only good at 1080i and not too bad at 720p. I think ill stick with my UD board when i will need to display HD sources.

Thanks for the report. It looks like I do need one that will be centered. I didn't notice before, but the top few lines on my CRT are wavy, ie. a verticle line is straight except for the top 10%. I tested my converter on my LCDs, and none had that problem. I can only assume it's because of the non-SMPTE timings of the P board. So, I am thinking of selling my box and either buy an HD Fury 2, or go the UD board route. I'm not sure I could take it if I got through all the trouble of building my own again, only to have some aspect of it not work right. The extra cost of an HD Fury may be worth it. Known anyone who would want my converter for cheap?

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post #52 of 74 Old 02-24-2012, 02:58 PM
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So I'm pretty sure I'm going to go the HD Fury route, but not sure if the extra features of the HD Fury 3 will be worth the extra cost.

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post #53 of 74 Old 02-24-2012, 03:23 PM
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I'm looking around too, and came across this http://www.ebay.com/itm/260615731700...84.m1423.l2649

What do you think? And two hdmi's...
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post #54 of 74 Old 02-26-2012, 09:12 PM - Thread Starter
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hint hint, 1st of all, big chance that is NOT a hdfury pro. 2nd, that converter should be ok but it converts original input to output. You will have to set the output of your blu-ray to 1080i for it to work.
Cant say much about it, they dont give specs, model and bandwith, things like that.
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post #55 of 74 Old 02-27-2012, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chitown Oldie View Post

I'm looking around too, and came across this http://www.ebay.com/itm/260615731700...84.m1423.l2649

What do you think? And two hdmi's...

Gut says it'll be like all the other cheap ones and have the left shift issue.

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post #56 of 74 Old 03-08-2012, 07:12 PM
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Just got my 'off-shore' fury knock-off, hooked it up and everything looks great, No shifting whatsoever. Running 1080i via hdmi out of Mag513, and the optical audio into a/v receiver. Next I'll be adding a new Panny BD, and having two switchable hdmi inputs will make it a breeze.

It's been on for three hours now and is cool to the touch. Hopefully it outlasts its' warranty.
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post #57 of 74 Old 03-09-2012, 08:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Glad u found a nice cheap converter! Of course, i did mine cause i had all the parts in stock and didnt have to pay a penny. Good to know it works!
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post #58 of 74 Old 03-09-2012, 09:49 AM
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I wonder if there are TVs that can detect the start of the picture and compensate for the left shift. On amazon, reviews of the cheap unit, some say they have a left shift, others say they don't. I doubt the boxes themselves are different. I wonder if the TVs act more like monitors that have the auto adjust, that can find the edge of the picture and display it properly.

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post #59 of 74 Old 03-09-2012, 01:37 PM
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I may have been too quick in my praise...seeing that the Mag513 was going thru beautifully.

Today I hooked up the Panny BD-210 and couldn't see the set-up screen. Switched ports to no avail. It's obviously not getting a good handshake (thinks the converter is a recorder?). Resorted to composite and everything works.

Guess they'll be getting it back...
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post #60 of 74 Old 03-12-2012, 06:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Usually this is cause the blu-ray is outputting to 1080p. Connect in composite and try to set it up to 1080i for the video output through HDMI. Then retry your converter.
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