Sony Trinitron WEGA RLOD Twenty Dollar Repair Guide - Page 3 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 89 Old 03-03-2013, 03:57 PM - Thread Starter
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@ MDamania, keredd1010 and VideoRookie - Thanks for the Feedback, nice to read about WEGAs being saved.

Years from now the HD CRT will be very difficult to find, imagine how many were disposed due to not doing an inexpensive repair.
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post #62 of 89 Old 04-07-2013, 10:55 AM
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I recently found this video, a TV repair guy in Tulsa who was telling to replace the two driver chips on the Trinitron logic board in order to fix the 6 blink issue. His video doesn't show a lot, unfortunately, and he even cut the wire to the anode cap, not a good idea for most people to do at all, but he demonstrated that he did this just to get the board out completely, easily, and work at it on his table. (i.e. obviously he knows how to discharge it first.) Anyway, I was about to close the page here when I started browsing the comments.

Someone there made some claims that perked me up a bit. If you'll notice "Dan theman," he mentions that ic sockets aren't recommended because they can oxidize quicker and cause another failure. I suppose this idea carries some weight, more metal and material equals more potential for problems to happen when/if something rusts, but I would also think that if an ic socket were to oxidize easily then you might have bigger problems than a failed chip. Plumbing leaks, flooding, etc.? At any rate the thing that really stuck out to me was his mention that a third chip is needed in order to prevent the two driver chips from failing again. Unfortunately, nobody in the comment thread, not even Dan theman mentioned the name of this third part/chip to be replaced.

I've already messaged him asking about this through my youtube account. Anyway, everybody knows since the dawn of time here that replacing the two chips with MCZ3001DB fixes things. Does anybody know anything about this third part/chip as a culprit for the death of the other two? If this were known, it could be a preventive measure for anyone who hasn't had a failure yet.
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post #63 of 89 Old 04-13-2013, 02:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiquidSnake View Post

If you'll notice "Dan theman," he mentions that ic sockets aren't recommended because they can oxidize quicker and cause another failure. I suppose this idea carries some weight, more metal and material equals more potential for problems to happen when/if something rusts, but I would also think that if an ic socket were to oxidize easily then you might have bigger problems than a failed chip. Plumbing leaks, flooding, etc.? At any rate the thing that really stuck out to me was his mention that a third chip is needed in order to prevent the two driver chips from failing again. Unfortunately, nobody in the comment thread, not even Dan theman mentioned the name of this third part/chip to be replaced.

I've already messaged him asking about this through my youtube account. Anyway, everybody knows since the dawn of time here that replacing the two chips with MCZ3001DB fixes things. Does anybody know anything about this third part/chip as a culprit for the death of the other two? If this were known, it could be a preventive measure for anyone who hasn't had a failure yet.

There is sometimes a third MCZ3001D Chip inside some TVs located on the A Board, I mentioned this in the Guide in the OP. Usually that chip does not fail though.

As for the sockets, it could be an issue on a high amperage circuit which these chips are not. Corrosion is of little concern if the TV is kept in a climate controlled enviroment. I will never leave my HD WEGA out in the garage, I prefer the sockets in case of a future failure of the chips.
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post #64 of 89 Old 04-13-2013, 03:37 PM
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Is there a post-able schematic of that section of the circuit?

I quickly 'searched up' that chip and it appears they were upgraded due to failure problems (of course maybe that's what that chip sales website wanted me to believe...). Well there's gotta be a reason, poor design or manufacture somewhere along the way (chip and/or circuit).

Yeah the IC socket oxidation potential issue seems off in left field. If worried put some of that anit-oxidation goop over the pins like they use on automotive electrical.

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post #65 of 89 Old 05-23-2013, 08:28 AM
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Thank you CRTGAMER!!!

Your detailed Sony Trinitron WEGA Landfill Prevention Kit helped me resurrect our circa 2003 36 inch WEGA CRT TV that just started giving us the 6 Blink, 7 Blink error codes after trying to power on. The ironic thing about the initial failure was that my Parents have the identical unit (TV) out in Southern California and the same error occurred about two years ago. Their 230 lbs. beast unit is sitting in their garage on a wagon waiting for their Son (me) to come for a visit with a soldering iron in hand.

From another post in this forum from eclipsedave #108 http://www.avsforum.com/t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont-power-on-and-the-standby-light-blinks-help-and-suggesti/90 along with CRTGAMER's help, we (a very talented Undergraduate and future Biomedical Engineering Graduate Student Mohammed) gently used all our force to move the monster to a big Rubbermaid laboratory cart that happens to be the same height as the place the Sony has been sitting since 2003. We removed the back cover, vacuumed the dust and found the two assumingly faulty MCZ3001D chips. I purchased 2 SHINDENGEN MCZ3001DB chips and sockets from Amazon.com http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005QOOACY/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for $10.00 total. This little job also gave me the excuse to buy a nice soldering iron also from Amazon.com, a Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZRT4M/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 that worked really well!

We cut the plastic brace bar under the board with a Dremel hanging motor and Flex shaft rotary tool and cutting wheel to expose IC #2 as in steps 7-9 of eclipsedave's #108 post. To desolder, we used Desoldering Braid Wick with the Hakko soldering iron. The old chips removed nicely and the sockets were soldered in and new IC were pressed into the sockets. It is nice to know if the 6 Blink error code ever occurs again, one can purchase 2 new IC's and press them in the sockets without having to repair the board.

All in all it was a "Great Save!!" Yes, I may have splurged a little on the Hakko soldering iron, but I can justify its use with other projects I have put off and learn to start future hobbies (N scale model railroading etc.) Since the TV is in the family room, all DVR recording, kids Disney XD channels, WII Gaming and Sports are viewed on this unit, I just did not have $400+ to give to a repair person or the $1,500 for a new Sony LED TV. Yes, I will probably end up getting a 46 inch W802A LED TV so that I can connect all the HDMI cables/ports to our Yamaha A/V Receiver (much easier than home made component cables). But I can wait until the prices come down or just enjoy the CRT HD TV that much longer!! It is amazing to think that I can hit the "On" button on the Sony TV remote and the unit will Power On!!!

Thanks again everyone for all your suggestions, outstanding pictures, and step-by-step instructions!!!

Dan Martinez, Ph.D.
Houston, Texas
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post #66 of 89 Old 05-23-2013, 09:46 AM
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This is so awesome dandog. Sony Trinitron is my all time favorite TV ever made- oh how I wish I had my old 27" one (model forgotten,it was beautiful in a real wood, but very modern looking console) it was "top of the line" back then and had PIP. It always makes my day when somebody repairs their old units rather than replace them with the cheap throwaway stuff out now. I do have a smaller Sony Trinitron in a white plastic case (1993 year) that has a much better picture than my new LG HDTV! On non-HD channels, the LG picture is awful- like an old VHS tape. I use the Sony with an analog-digital box, and it's a pleasure to view. It makes me sad just thinking about all the old TVs people toss out without a care in the world, to make room for some cheaply made Chinese import from Walmart.

People are terrified of repairing televisions. Sometimes all it needs is a new capacitor, or that little thingie what was needed in your case. I'm just a housewife, not a mechanically inclined manly man, and if even I, poor little old me wink.gif can do it, anyone can.

I just wanted to say "good job" on your repair and glad to see a person appreciating such a beautiful old television.

In my city of Phoenix I just found out we have something I hadn't seen in years - a TV repair shop! http://www.melrosetvrepair.com/

when's the last time you saw one of those, eh? I'm going to go in there this week just to look around and see what he's got.
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post #67 of 89 Old 08-11-2013, 01:02 AM
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i successfully fixed my 36" HD Sony KD-36XS955 by replacing the original MCZ3001DB with new ones from Amazon.
Thank you for your detail explanation.
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post #68 of 89 Old 11-30-2013, 04:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by betoringo View Post

i successfully fixed my 36" HD Sony KD-36XS955 by replacing the original MCZ3001DB with new ones from Amazon.
Thank you for your detail explanation.

Congrats to all who have fixed their Sonys and thanks for the stories. Interesting that sometimes the revised chips can also fail though not as often.
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post #69 of 89 Old 12-05-2013, 01:27 PM
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Hi guys Anybody here that installed the MCZ30001DB IC's in kv sony how they've holding on,no essues?
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post #70 of 89 Old 03-10-2014, 05:49 AM
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I did the repair this past weekend. thanks to your instructions, tv back up and running!!! never solder/desolder before, used desoldering braid instead of bulb. worked like a charm. thanks again!
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post #71 of 89 Old 06-05-2014, 08:28 AM
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Hi there ive had the 6-7 blink problem with my sony trinitron. i recently found your blog that details how to fix the problem by changing the two ic chips so i got the chips and followed the procedure on how to fix it but due to the fact that i have never soldered til this project a few of the trace pads on the board around the ic chip pins completely ripped off is there a way that my project can still be salvaged? Below is a picture link to view what it looks like. 

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/312155817895214640/

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post #72 of 89 Old 06-05-2014, 08:31 AM
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Hi there ive had the 6-7 blink problem with my sony trinitron. i recently found your blog that details how to fix the problem by changing the two ic chips so i got the chips and followed the procedure on how to fix it but due to the fact that i have never soldered til this project a few of the trace pads on the board around the ic chip pins completely ripped off is there a way that my project can still be salvaged? Below is a picture to view what it looks like. 

 

salvaged?

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post #73 of 89 Old 06-05-2014, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe blak View Post

a few of the trace pads on the board around the ic chip pins completely ripped off is there a way that my project can still be salvaged?

Solder a wire from the pin to the nearest solder joint on the trace. Use insulated wire where necessary (ex: long run). Alternatively, you can lightly scrape the green solder resist off the trace and solder the wire from a pin at the scraped point (i.e. if you're worried about a component falling at the nearest solder joint). It doesn't look like there's much IC pin protruding to solder to so pre-tin the end of the wire (this should be done at both wire ends anyway), then insert the wire down in the hole beside the pin and then solder the wire to the pin.

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post #74 of 89 Old 06-06-2014, 03:47 AM
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Please tell us what wattage soldering iron did you use? They look like they've been desoldered with a blowtorch. confused.gif I haven't seen black solder before.

See if you can find pictures of the two IC locations from others who own the same model television. It might give a clearer picture of what is meant to go with what.
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post #75 of 89 Old 06-06-2014, 07:27 AM
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Black solder? Maybe you're seeing the shadows.

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post #76 of 89 Old 06-06-2014, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floydage View Post


Solder a wire from the pin to the nearest solder joint on the trace. Use insulated wire where necessary (ex: long run). Alternatively, you can lightly scrape the green solder resist off the trace and solder the wire from a pin at the scraped point (i.e. if you're worried about a component falling at the nearest solder joint). It doesn't look like there's much IC pin protruding to solder to so pre-tin the end of the wire (this should be done at both wire ends anyway), then insert the wire down in the hole beside the pin and then solder the wire to the pin.

Thanks floydage im gonna try it out an see if it works. But before i try it out how will i know if im scraping the right trace point on the board when connecting the ic pin to the wire then scrapped trace? 

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post #77 of 89 Old 06-06-2014, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homerging View Post

Please tell us what wattage soldering iron did you use? They look like they've been desoldered with a blowtorch. confused.gif I haven't seen black solder before.

See if you can find pictures of the two IC locations from others who own the same model television. It might give a clearer picture of what is meant to go with what.

i used a 40 watt soldering iron first but it was barely hot enough to heat the solder joint. The one im using now is a 60 watt works way better. the solder isn't black the lighting in the pic was bad i also did find some pics of the ic locations but its still difficult to tell where the pins on the left side of the photo below go.

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post #78 of 89 Old 06-07-2014, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe blak View Post

Thanks floydage im gonna try it out an see if it works. But before i try it out how will i know if im scraping the right trace point on the board when connecting the ic pin to the wire then scrapped trace? 

You're welcome. I'm assuming you can see which trace goes to which pad upon closer inspection, a little harder for me to tell based on a pic; or at least you can see which pad a trace 'appears' to go to. Then confirm conductivity with a meter, although it might be difficult to get any contact in the vicinity of a pad.

P.S. I've noticed on other pics that some of those pins are unused/no pad/no solder.

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post #79 of 89 Old 06-09-2014, 05:36 AM
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A 40 watt soldering iron should be hot enough to melt the joint almost instantly. Some poor quality irons have tips that don't conduct heat properly which I think was what happened.

A 60 watt iron sounds excessively hot to me. The supplied tip may be too large to work with easily too.
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post #80 of 89 Old 08-07-2014, 11:42 PM
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Discoloration on sides of screen

Can you help please.
I have a Wega Trinitron KV HR36M31 that has developed Green sides would this be the Chip issue [have ordered replacements] or would this be another issue?
Wanting to repair rather than watch it go to the Tip.
any help appreciated
regards Glen
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post #81 of 89 Old 08-08-2014, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenb0506 View Post
Can you help please.
I have a Wega Trinitron KV HR36M31 that has developed Green sides would this be the Chip issue [have ordered replacements] or would this be another issue?
Wanting to repair rather than watch it go to the Tip.
any help appreciated
regards Glen
The most recent chip problem discussed here is one where the TV won't power up. Doubtful but there could be some other chip issue I'm unaware of related to your problem.

Have you recently changed the compass orientation of this TV? If not make sure there's no speakers or other magnetic or electromagnetic devices near the problem area. Do you still hear the boing sound when you power up the TV? That's an internal degaussing circuit that corrects this problem after say moving the TV to a new location (in which case it may take several on/off cycles but don't try it without letting the degauss circuit cool for at least 10 minutes at a time).

What's the background on this problem? Did it just occur with no changes around the TV? Suddenly or gradually? All the input sources you use?

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post #82 of 89 Old 08-09-2014, 01:36 AM
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Has been sitting in the same position for over 2 years. Was watching a dvd, as that is the only input device being used then 3/4 way through movie it just went to a screen with the discoloration and a double image. Turned off and left for a week as it only gets used occasionally. Turned back on and same problem. Tried a few days later etc etc...
I have had in the past a small version of it on the screen but no blurring of image and yes that was the speakers at that time and moved them well away to the side..
All Speakers have now been move away [out of the room] and now this discoloration and blurring is on all the time when powering up. When powering up there is the usual hiss then 6 blinks as the tv turns on. But always now gets to the screen on and discoloration and double image.
Poor old girl may be past her prime but has a great image when working.
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post #83 of 89 Old 08-09-2014, 08:32 PM
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I didn't know about the blurring as I didn't click on the thumbnail. Yeah looks like something went awry on the old girl. Just for the heck of it I'd try another source and/or try the DVD player on another TV. Hopefully one of the experts here will pipe in. I don't recall that model number but you might search it within AVS to see if there's a dedicated thread; same thing with that particular malady for CRTs in general.

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post #84 of 89 Old 08-09-2014, 10:21 PM
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Yeah thanks mate,
its an Australian model. does it on all modes and inputs. will be sorry to scrap this old one though. has been with me a long time.
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post #85 of 89 Old 10-31-2014, 11:37 AM
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Replaced chips, now it's worse. Where to start?

I've read several many posts on this problem and performed the repair on my KV-32HS10 using sockets. Now when I press the power button 1 relay clicks, and then clicks off again after about 3 seconds. The power LED blinks once or twice during the first click, but then does not click an error code after it clicks off. I put the original IC's back in (in the sockets) and it does the same thing, leading me to believe that it's not getting through the startup process far enough to give the error. It even does the same if neither of the IC's are installed in the sockets on the D board.

I've used an ohm meter to verify the pins of the socket are connected to the pads on the board, and looked everywhere for a solder bridge or drop with a magnifying glass and can't see anything wrong. I have a background in electronics and digital circuits.

Can anyone give me a pointer on where to start diagnosing this?
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post #86 of 89 Old 12-30-2014, 11:13 AM
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Hi we're you able to find a fix for this issue?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbeckerle View Post
Hi all and particularly neccrttv since he has the experience I probably need to tap,

I have a KV32XBR400 and did the chip replacement several years ago, which fixed the blinking light/not turning on problem. Since then, I have encountered a different but probably related problem.

After viewing for a while, when the image has a lot of white (and/or at higher brightness settings), the image starts to "zoom in" or "bloom out" or expand to overfill the screen. The amount of expansion fluctuates with the image brightness. It does this for a while and then eventually the image expands to some upper limit on a particularly bright/white scene and then the crt shuts completely off. Turning the tv off for about 20 seconds and then back on usually resets it and it works fine again for a variable period of time from minutes to hours. I have tried to trouble shoot this a few times but I can never get it to happen with the back off the TV (heat related?), and I am not willing to just leave it with the back off forever due to the HV safety issues.

I understand that the zooming in must be the HV supply voltage collapsing, and that the collapse is related to higher current levels/load on the HV supply at the higher brightness. But I am have no experience as to what the likely culprits are in the HV supply circuit that would be causing this problem.

We have been living with this problem for years, literally. But I would love to fix it once and for all. It is a great TV in all other respects.

For those providing advice, I have a fair amount of experience with electronics repair of many types, but not a lot with CRT/TV HV circuits. I own an oscilloscope and DVM.

Thanks in advance!
Does anyone else have this issue if so what was the fix? My tv was dead I revived with chip replacements and now it's doing what's described in this post.
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post #87 of 89 Old 03-28-2015, 03:37 PM
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KV-32HS500 success story!

I bought my MCZ3001DB chips and sockets from this ebay guy because he said they were authentic and they had the B in the date code on the third line of text (mine ended up being "B11240"). $15.35 shipped very quickly, so around $10 less than Amazon.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHINDENGEN-I...-/161608844609

The print was much more faint than on the original chips, but they work, so I guess they are good. I'll report back if/when they fail.

I also found that the desoldering wick/braid worked better than the solder sucker (unnecessary $3.30 on ebay, oh well). Since the pins are so close to each other it's hard to get a good seal with the sucker. The wick worked like a charm once I started to use gravity to my advantage (heat the solder a little, lift iron, add the wick below the pin, and then press wick with iron and watch solder suck down into the braid in a poof of smoke).

During the soldering, I also realized part of the way through that I could use gravity by always adding solder from above. If the pin was rubbing on the top of the hole before I soldered it, I just bent it slightly so it was rubbing on the bottom and made getting the iron above the pin easier. I left the chips in the sockets during the soldering and they didn't melt. I figured it would be less stress on the joints that way and they should be able to handle a little heat.

One step that took me a little while to find were the lever/latches that allow the boards to slide out. These are clearly shown right above the long screwdriver in the OP's photo under the words "Be careful the PCB is stable sitting on end..." but I wasn't sure at first.

Another note is that I ended up with some white goop on my fingers if I wasn't careful poking around on the top of the board. Not a big deal, but check your paws once in a while if you don't want to get that everywhere.

I did the work on a TV that's on a wooden stand with the back of the TV about five inches from a wall. I originally tried to remove the back cover without moving the TV thinking I could possibly slide it back a couple inches and lift it, but that doesn't work. You need to have a couple of feet behind the TV to slide it off. I eventually just lifted each side of the TV a little and had someone put a towel under it as I did. Then I could rotate the TV 90 degrees and work on it on the stand without additional lifting.

This is on a KV-32HS500 manufactured in May 2002 that started taking a few tries to turn on a few weeks ago, eventually stuck with the six blinks without turning on, had unplugging it for a while work once, had the hair dryer trick work once, and then was pretty much all blinks and no action until I replaced these chips.

Hopefully this fix will last a few years while OLED and 4K matures (and gets cheaper .

Anyway, now my "repaired with the help of AVSForum" TV is back working while connected to my "repaired with the help of AVSForum" DTVPal and "repaired with the help of AVSForum" Panny E85H (gotta love that 1.3x playback for crap shows, news, etc.).

Thanks to everyone who participates in these forums!
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post #88 of 89 Old 03-29-2015, 09:41 AM
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White goop is most likely thermal grease, very nasty stuff for eyes so be careful in that regard.

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post #89 of 89 Unread Today, 07:48 AM
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Hi all and particularly neccrttv since he has the experience I probably need to tap,
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