Sony Trinitron WEGA RLOD Twenty Dollar Repair Guide - Page 4 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #91 of 99 Old 11-29-2015, 03:11 PM
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Tried IC replacement, now another issue….Help, please!

Great details on the repair for the IC chips on the D-board.
We encountered the 6/7 blink error on our KD-34XBR960.
Purchased the 2 chips and replaced them.
Now I am getting a 3 blink error.

Hate to landfill the TV. Any input on what to try next?

Thanks in advance!
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post #92 of 99 Old 03-04-2016, 05:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivtec View Post
Hi guys Anybody here that installed the MCZ30001DB IC's in kv sony how they've holding on,no essues?
I am the Original Poster, wrote the Guide at the top of the first page back October 2011.
Happy to report my WEGA HD CRT still working just fine.


Quote:
Originally Posted by HomerSimpson2015 View Post
Great details on the repair for the IC chips on the D-board.

We encountered the 6/7 blink error on our KD-34XBR960.
Purchased the 2 chips and replaced them.
Now I am getting a 3 blink error.

Hate to landfill the TV. Any input on what to try next?

Thanks in advance!
Apologies for not checking back on this Thread recently. See the bottom post of the previous page, sometimes a resolder goes the trick.

Last edited by CRTGAMER; 03-04-2016 at 05:19 PM.
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post #93 of 99 Old 04-29-2016, 08:31 AM
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This process works and solved my issue of large amounts of screen bloom.**


I got my Wega kv-32hs420 about a week ago from a guy on craigslist I had been looking for one in my area for a while really wanted one because I am into classic gaming I have a 60hz SD trinitron I use for nes and snes , genesis and the like due to working well with 240 also keep it around for light guns. That being said I wanted this one to use with PS2/PS1 and xbox classic. This TV can also do the older systems Pretty well as well so this TV was to become my main and the other used for DDR station and light guns. But I digress I got this thing took it home plugged it in and played for about 30 minutes of snes then went to change inputs and when on a black screen it appeared greenish and had 3 blue lines at the top of the screen. after some Googling I found that people fixed this by adjusting the screen POT on the back of the fly-back converter. I opened it up to find the most nasty inside I could have imagined previous owner was a smoker (of many substances I assume) so it was a mess ill post a picture of the mess below. however I adjusted the flyback pot and the lines disappeared noticed a tiny bit of geometry error in the very top left but at this point was not worried about it. I then put it back together and went to bed. The next day I played PS2 on it and loaded burnout 3 the title screen shifts from dark to light screens often so it was at this point I notice the screen blooming (BAD) it was like breathing. turn it off and start googling found it to be the fault of the contrast POT being too high but if turned down the lines came back. It all came down to voltage regulation something these ICs supposedly handle so I adjusted the contrast Pot back to normal and ordered the ICs as well as the sockets and a better soldering iron. In the meantime I cleaned the internals as much as possible. fast forward to last night I soldered them in Powered the beast on with PS2 and burnout 3 loaded and contrast pots at stock. NO MORE LINES OR BLOOM. I have a feeling my ICs were on their way out and this fix worked. picture quality is also improved due to the electron guns not being under and over volted and losing focus. Thank you for this just wanted to post as I have seen very little about fixing the bloom issue.
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post #94 of 99 Old 08-23-2016, 06:18 PM
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I had a friend install sockets and new chips into my KV-HR36M31 (Australian model) a couple of months ago and it worked perfectly....until last night

Last night it went onto standby Mode and is blinking twice

(the original fault had it blinking 10 times which is what led me this topic the first time around and the successful repair)

I've attached snapshots from the to Service Guide showing what 2 Blinks & what 10 blinks mean.

Can anyone offer advice as to whether the "new" fault Code (2 Blinks) is related to the "old" Fault Code (10 Blinks) and it it might be that those chips that have failed again?

I appreciate any help - It's such a beautiful TV when working and I'd hate to have to throw it out

thanks

David
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post #95 of 99 Old 09-28-2016, 06:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by someoneelse View Post
I had a friend install sockets and new chips into my KV-HR36M31 (Australian model) a couple of months ago and it worked perfectly....until last night

Last night it went onto standby Mode and is blinking twice

(the original fault had it blinking 10 times which is what led me this topic the first time around and the successful repair)

I've attached snapshots from the to Service Guide showing what 2 Blinks & what 10 blinks mean.

Can anyone offer advice as to whether the "new" fault Code (2 Blinks) is related to the "old" Fault Code (10 Blinks) and it it might be that those chips that have failed again?

I appreciate any help - It's such a beautiful TV when working and I'd hate to have to throw it out

thanks

David
If you did not purchase spare chips, try swapping the two that you plugged in the sockets. Might not work, but worth a shot, have care the chip legs can easily bend and break. Might be good while the chips are unplugged to remelt the solder contacts (don't overcook) in case any were a marginal connection. Since the chips are relatively cheap, recommend have a spare set on hand before opening up the TV again.
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post #96 of 99 Old 10-04-2016, 08:46 AM
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Thanks, I have seen the inside of an FV. They actually have a subwoofer built in. Not a large one, but one nonetheless. If you are using the TV speakers for gaming, the FV is a must for that reason alone. the 3D comb filter is a nice little add on to that.

Yours has manual 16:9 enhancement. You should fire up a widescreen video game, like NiGHTS, or DK64 and turn it on. See when you turn on those games' widescreen function they squish more of the image together, expecting your 16:9 TV to stretch it back out again. If you turn on the TVs 16:9 enhancement it will letterbox the 16:9 image in your 4:3 screen thereby allowing you to view it in full widescreen glory. Yes you'll have black bars, but you'll get to see more of game to the left and right, and you'll get to see it without distortion. Try it out and let us know what you think. The enhancement is in the menu. And this is a must for DVDs. Just remember to set your DVD player to a 16:9 screen.
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post #97 of 99 Old 04-17-2017, 06:11 PM
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Should I attempt this job?

Hi,

Great thread and DIY. New here! Anyway, I came across a free Sony Wega FD Trinitron KV-34XBR910 with SU-XBR1 stand and remote. The owner has the new sockets and updated OEM chips, but he never did the job.

I am pretty scared to do this job since I have never soldered in my life. I will watch some videos tonight. I have changed two throttle body actuators in an E60 BMW M5 (S85 5.0 L 40V DOHC V10 engine) by myself, among other parts on this car. I have also designed and built a $4k+ HPSC Windows 10 Pro workstation by myself and everything on it works 100%, so perhaps this TV job won't be too bad?

I have a local repair guy who will do it for me for $175. I feel like I should just have him do it.

Any advice?
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post #98 of 99 Old 09-21-2017, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bootymonger View Post
I bought my MCZ3001DB chips and sockets from this ebay guy because he said they were authentic and they had the B in the date code on the third line of text (mine ended up being "B11240"). $15.35 shipped very quickly, so around $10 less than Amazon.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHINDENGEN-I...-/161608844609

The print was much more faint than on the original chips, but they work, so I guess they are good. I'll report back if/when they fail.

I also found that the desoldering wick/braid worked better than the solder sucker (unnecessary $3.30 on ebay, oh well). Since the pins are so close to each other it's hard to get a good seal with the sucker. The wick worked like a charm once I started to use gravity to my advantage (heat the solder a little, lift iron, add the wick below the pin, and then press wick with iron and watch solder suck down into the braid in a poof of smoke).

During the soldering, I also realized part of the way through that I could use gravity by always adding solder from above. If the pin was rubbing on the top of the hole before I soldered it, I just bent it slightly so it was rubbing on the bottom and made getting the iron above the pin easier. I left the chips in the sockets during the soldering and they didn't melt. I figured it would be less stress on the joints that way and they should be able to handle a little heat.

One step that took me a little while to find were the lever/latches that allow the boards to slide out. These are clearly shown right above the long screwdriver in the OP's photo under the words "Be careful the PCB is stable sitting on end..." but I wasn't sure at first.

Another note is that I ended up with some white goop on my fingers if I wasn't careful poking around on the top of the board. Not a big deal, but check your paws once in a while if you don't want to get that everywhere.

I did the work on a TV that's on a wooden stand with the back of the TV about five inches from a wall. I originally tried to remove the back cover without moving the TV thinking I could possibly slide it back a couple inches and lift it, but that doesn't work. You need to have a couple of feet behind the TV to slide it off. I eventually just lifted each side of the TV a little and had someone put a towel under it as I did. Then I could rotate the TV 90 degrees and work on it on the stand without additional lifting.

This is on a KV-32HS500 manufactured in May 2002 that started taking a few tries to turn on a few weeks ago, eventually stuck with the six blinks without turning on, had unplugging it for a while work once, had the hair dryer trick work once, and then was pretty much all blinks and no action until I replaced these chips.

Hopefully this fix will last a few years while OLED and 4K matures (and gets cheaper .

Anyway, now my "repaired with the help of AVSForum" TV is back working while connected to my "repaired with the help of AVSForum" DTVPal and "repaired with the help of AVSForum" Panny E85H (gotta love that 1.3x playback for crap shows, news, etc.).

Thanks to everyone who participates in these forums!
Update summary: My replacement chips lasted from March of 2015 until August of 2017 (so about 2.5 years) and new ones from Aliexpress seem to work.

I started to get the six or seven blinks and had to try to turn the TV on a couple times before it would stay on. When that stopped working I did the "secret menu" trick to get it to stay on (from off state press display, then 5, then vol -, then pwr). I left it on for a few weeks while the replacement MCZ3001DB chips came from China. I ordered six chips for less than $10 total shipped via aliexpress instead of ebay this time. It takes about a month to arrive from China using the epacket shipping, but they are cheaper and the same thing you get from US sellers without their markup. If you need them quickly, order from a US seller on Amazon or ebay.

Here's a direct link to my AliExpress purchase: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MCZ3...820408988.html

They were the cheapest but the seller seems to have taken over two weeks to actually ship the item (eight days to mark it shipped and then over one additional week to actually get it to the shipper), which then took 10 more days to arrive (10 days is about right for an epacket).

The day my chips arrived, the TV had been on a couple weeks and was starting to have a red tint on dark scenes. It was kind of odd. Bright scenes would display normally, but dark scenes (like a space star field with one ship) would slightly shrink the screen and add a red tint. Knowing I was about to replace the chips, I tried turning the TV off to see if the red tint would go away. The TV would not turn back on even when I tried unplugging it or using the secret menu.

I had previously soldered sockets, so this time I only had to rotate the heavy TV, unscrew 18 screws, slide the back cover off, pop out the old replacement chips, and install the new replacement ships. Then I tested it and put it all back together. Still a bit of work but less than last time (socket idea was brilliant). The red tint issue is gone and the TV works normally again. We'll see how long these last or if I finally spring for a new OLED TV before these replacements fail.
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post #99 of 99 Old 09-24-2017, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minimization View Post
Hi,

Great thread and DIY. New here! Anyway, I came across a free Sony Wega FD Trinitron KV-34XBR910 with SU-XBR1 stand and remote. The owner has the new sockets and updated OEM chips, but he never did the job.

I am pretty scared to do this job since I have never soldered in my life. I will watch some videos tonight. I have changed two throttle body actuators in an E60 BMW M5 (S85 5.0 L 40V DOHC V10 engine) by myself, among other parts on this car. I have also designed and built a $4k+ HPSC Windows 10 Pro workstation by myself and everything on it works 100%, so perhaps this TV job won't be too bad?

I have a local repair guy who will do it for me for $175. I feel like I should just have him do it.

Any advice?
Welcome! yes,go for it!
The XBR910 is still a very sweet high-end Sony CRT.
You are fortunate to find such a killer deal. Keep me posted on your situation.
I own an XBR960N since 2005 and it is still a killer tv!
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