I bought my MCZ3001DB chips and sockets from this ebay guy because he said they were authentic and they had the B in the date code on the third line of text (mine ended up being "B11240"). $15.35 shipped very quickly, so around $10 less than Amazon.
The print was much more faint than on the original chips, but they work, so I guess they are good. I'll report back if/when they fail.
I also found that the desoldering wick/braid worked better than the solder sucker (unnecessary $3.30 on ebay, oh well). Since the pins are so close to each other it's hard to get a good seal with the sucker. The wick worked like a charm once I started to use gravity to my advantage (heat the solder a little, lift iron, add the wick below the pin, and then press wick with iron and watch solder suck down into the braid in a poof of smoke).
During the soldering, I also realized part of the way through that I could use gravity by always adding solder from above. If the pin was rubbing on the top of the hole before I soldered it, I just bent it slightly so it was rubbing on the bottom and made getting the iron above the pin easier. I left the chips in the sockets during the soldering and they didn't melt. I figured it would be less stress on the joints that way and they should be able to handle a little heat.
One step that took me a little while to find were the lever/latches that allow the boards to slide out. These are clearly shown right above the long screwdriver in the OP's photo under the words "Be careful the PCB is stable sitting on end..." but I wasn't sure at first.
Another note is that I ended up with some white goop on my fingers if I wasn't careful poking around on the top of the board. Not a big deal, but check your paws once in a while if you don't want to get that everywhere.
I did the work on a TV that's on a wooden stand with the back of the TV about five inches from a wall. I originally tried to remove the back cover without moving the TV thinking I could possibly slide it back a couple inches and lift it, but that doesn't work. You need to have a couple of feet behind the TV to slide it off. I eventually just lifted each side of the TV a little and had someone put a towel under it as I did. Then I could rotate the TV 90 degrees and work on it on the stand without additional lifting.
This is on a KV-32HS500 manufactured in May 2002 that started taking a few tries to turn on a few weeks ago, eventually stuck with the six blinks without turning on, had unplugging it for a while work once, had the hair dryer trick work once, and then was pretty much all blinks and no action until I replaced these chips.
Hopefully this fix will last a few years while OLED and 4K matures (and gets cheaper
Anyway, now my "repaired with the help of AVSForum" TV is back working while connected to my "repaired with the help of AVSForum" DTVPal and "repaired with the help of AVSForum" Panny E85H (gotta love that 1.3x playback for crap shows, news, etc.).
Thanks to everyone who participates in these forums!