I have a problem with a Sony 500 GM CRT monitor.
The tube is very bright and even when the Electronic Brightness control is turned all the way down it is still pretty bright. It is usable and works perfectly it just appears that who ever built the monitor thought real bright was better.
Again- it does not give the impression it is defective- just adjusted too bright.
I have owned five or six of these monitors and am using one to type this. So I have other Sony 21" monitors to compare it to. Colors are perfect as well as resolution.
It just takes turning the Brightness control all the way down on the monitor and turning brightness down on the Video Card Control Center as well.
This one is a little different from my other monitors in that I believe ( I could be wrong) this monitor was made as a high end Graphic Artist monitor. So that may explain why it is so bright.
As far as the age of the monitor - I will be brief.
I really loved these 21" Sony monitors and back in the mid-2000's when CRT's were being phased out in favor of Flat Screens I bought this monitor new in the box.
It stayed in the box until two weeks ago when one of my other Sony 21" monitors went out. I unpacked it and hooked it up. So in spite of it being from 2005 it had never been out of the original box or turned on until two weeks ago.
I read somewhere there is an adjustment on the monitor chassis that can turn the brightness up or down. But it wasn't clear if it applied to one of these monitors.
More importantly it did not specify if this was a simple adjustment or something better taken to a repair facility.
Also if there is a contrast adjustment inside as well it would be useful to know. It would be nice to get everything just right with the Electronic controls set in a neutral position.
Any help would be appreciated.
did the monitor come with an Anti-Glare filter?
also check out these links, they might provide some info to help you fix it:
No anti-glare filter.
I thought of getting one because that would make it perfect.
Problem is I really could not find any for this monitor and the ones that were close were ridiculously expensive.
Thanks for the links.
To be honest the instructions you linked to sound way over my head. Before I found this website a place in town told me they would put the monitor on an Oscilloscope and make all internal adjustments for around a hundred dollars.
I really appreciate your help but when you get into VG1 and VG2 voltages and a naked potentiometer I think I may be better off to pay someone who knows what they are doing. I was hoping for a simple pot on the neck board I could adjust and leave it at that. But this sounds like it has the potential of being a lot more involved and way beyond me.
One thing I didn't mention- when you first turn the monitor on it is awful bright but after an hour or so it looks much better. Not perfect but better.
I do have one question though- if there are bad components in the monitor will it be obvious while they are adjusting it?
On one had it is hard to believe Sony would send out a monitor from the factory set this bright. On the other hand the monitors I have ran for well over a decade of constant use without a problem. It seems hard to believe a monitor could have a component fail sitting in the box all these years without ever being powered up.
But it is worth taking it in and finding out. But I am curious if a competent technician will be able to tell easily if this is merely a monitor needing adjustment or a more serious problem.
that might explain it, from what i have heard the Anti-glare filters make the monitors not as bright.
i have 3 (but only use 2) 21" CRTs (CPD-G520, CPD-E540, and Dell UltraScan P1110) and they all have antiglare filters, the CPD-G520P has a damaged one, but im leaving it on, no glare is nice, there bright enough with them on. i think they could be made less bright with some setting tweaks
that may be, but if you could fix it without paying $100 that would be ideal, i think there might be a POT but it might be on the flyback or somewhere on the neck board, also look at an Anti-glare coating, that might help.
if its bright at the start it might be some kind of component, my G520p flashes bright red, and rescan lines within the first minute its on, it might just be bad solder but there are other possible issues, you may or may not not detect an issue if they just adjust it. but then again im no expert.
they might not have, since its been unused maybe a component like a capacitor has deteriorated, it could have just been a defective monitor and since it wasnt used then it was never discovered
a competent tech might be able to if they have expereince, it might just be bad solder joints.
Thanks for your help.
I am probably a lot older than you.
I remember pulling tubes out of the back of the TV and taking them to Radio Shack to test them.
The point is I am not scared of opening up the monitor as I have messed around with this kind of stuff before ( at least in a very simple way). I understand the operating voltages and know to be careful and am knowledgeable on what NOT to touch or short out.
I guess I will open it up and see if there is an adjustment on the neckboard or try adjusting the Flyback transformer
One adjustment doesn't bother me- but from the links talking about adjustments of several different things together ( i.e. VG1 and VG2 voltages) to fix the problem sounds like me getting in over my head and doing more harm than good.
I will open it up and take a look. The worst that can happen is I make an adjustment that doesn't help or feel I am getting in over my head so I put it back together and take it to them anyway.
Thanks again for your help.
Kinda sounds like the problem I encountered when I picked up this Dell P1110 which may be a similar model (Sony inside). But first it is a professional CAD monitor and the manual does state that it does need time to warm up for brightness to self-adjust, which is true from my experience. But this one was way off in the weeds. I did a web search and found a thread (I think here on AVS) with pages and pages of folks going back and forth on various fixes. It appears to be a design flaw but I think occurs after aging. I went with one that required a resistor change on the yoke/neck board; G2 rings a bell (controlling a heater element in the neck tube). There were other solutions and the most recent were 'hardware friendly' where folks adjusted the factory code, I believe via RS-232; of course that required an interface board, code tweaking, etc.
P.S. It worked great for me and I've been using this monitor for several years now (knock on wood!). Allowed me to better center up all my PQ adjustments. Some of the pro-code-tweak folks claimed it would shorten the life of the CRT.
If it's too bright you should turn down the contrast. Contrast is light output (white level) or what we tend to think of as brightness. The brightness control is the black level adjustment. I have a Sony CPD-E210 CRT monitor I'm using right now to type this message. I keep the contrast pretty low on it as I use it in the dark. Brightness (black level) I set using a THX optimizer black level test image you can find on the web. You want the black level as dark as possible without losing the ability to just be able to see the 7th darkest square in the test image.
If it's what I'm thinking of it actually is a brightness problem - i.e. the best I could get my black was grey. Plus he appears 'brighter' than that. But yeah folks commonly mistake brightness for contrast; seems like there should have been better terminology... (like who decided to use 'component' when 'composite' was already being used?!).
I actually found the reason the monitor is so bright and the cure.
A lot of Trinitron monitors built in 2000 had a problem with a Mis-programmed Eprom in the monitor. It was set too high and all the monitors using the Trinitron ( i.e. Sony, Dell, HP, etc.) had this problem.
The solution is to reprogram the eprom. There is a YouTube Video showing how to to do it,-- It is called “How To Fix Trinitron Monitor Brightness”.
I realize as the years go by there are fewer and fewer of these models around but hopefully this will help someone else who may have this problem.
'A' solution. Choose your poison. Buy an interface board and tinker with code (note the EEPROM warning). Or remove a whole bunch of screws (lots of shielding on these pro monitors) and change a resistor (I just added one in parallel to the existing resistor). I believe there were other solutions as well, the thread was huge but I believe these were the two most common. HW vs. SW. Spy vs. Spy.
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