Samsung's new TXN series thoughts? - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 280 Old 10-28-2003, 11:54 AM
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They brought my television back today, and it's even worse than when I sent it in. I'm on the phone with Samsung right now. :X
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post #182 of 280 Old 10-30-2003, 01:55 PM
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Boston, keep us updated on your progress. I am about ready to call in on my samsung 32" also, as its got the distortion and wavy bars problem too.

BTW, I am sure you are calling Samsung, but their website says to call there "customer care" line if you have had your set in for service three times in one year..
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post #183 of 280 Old 10-30-2003, 02:06 PM
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They're making me send it in AGAIN for repairs. This is crazy.
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post #184 of 280 Old 11-04-2003, 10:10 AM
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I'd like to get 4x3 aspect ratio in a 1080i timing.

If I feed one of these sets a 1440x1080 resolution in 1080i timings, will either of the zoom modes give me full screen 4x3?

If so, what will the effective resolution be? Is this worth trying? Has anybody tried it?

TIA,

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post #185 of 280 Old 11-04-2003, 10:24 AM
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I guess part of my question relates to my ignorance as to how the zoom modes are accomplished. How does the TV make the zoom modes happen? If it changes the scan line locations and widths then it seems like my idea could result in the best 4x3 image that the 4x3 sets can produce.

However, I'm skeptical. My guess is that zoom uses internal scaling, in which case my idea would probably contain too many scaling steps to be useful.

Could someone explain the technology behind the zoom function?

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post #186 of 280 Old 11-05-2003, 08:08 AM
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You cannot zoom anything other than 480i.
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post #187 of 280 Old 11-05-2003, 08:51 AM
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Drat. Thanks.

On another note, did you guys know there's VGA support in these boxes?

http://www.***************.com/htsth...b=5&o=&fpart=1

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post #188 of 280 Old 11-05-2003, 10:07 AM
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Mine goes into the shop for the geometry and wavy line issues tomorrow
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post #189 of 280 Old 11-05-2003, 07:42 PM
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Just got finished reading the entire thread. Hmm, OK, I just bought the TXN3075 a week ago and I've noticed some strange things too...

When fading from white to black, I see what looks like "color-banding" only black and white. I'm watching 4:3 content non-stretched in standard mode. The 4:3 area seems to have varying bands of darkness within eachother, all less and less distinct (No sharp corners) and variable in size as the fade progresses. I've noticed the warping while this is going on also.

If this is the only problem, I really don't care... But I own a Gamecube + XBOX. The problem is that, other than unofficial applications on the XBOX, I expect to be using the GC a hell of a lot more when my component cables arrive (On order) and many GC progressive scan games are 4:3 aspect (Sadly, Metroid Prime). This would exasperbate this TV's other flaws. Am I correct that I will be FORCED to play this game stretched to widescreen? Isn't that what you guys mean by it being "locked" in 480p? Imagine what my GB Player Gameboy Advance games will look like! Is there an HD tuner available with a second component input and some sort of "aspect ratio over-ride?" I don't have the money for a more expensive set nor the HD tuner I'm theorizing about, but I NEED THIS feature! It would be a huge comfort to know that I will at least be able to do this in the future. I do not want to use composite for other inputs because of the vertical bars mentioned earlier in the thread. I would have to use RF.

As for those vertical bars, so far, I've only noticed them with a cheap-o APEX DVD player because I've watched all TV off the integrated tuner via RF/COAX. With this player, we noticed it most when the screen was dark (Credits, fades, etc) but it was MUCH worse than I've seen in this thread. I assumed it was the cheap-o DVD player. I tried S-video and it was improved, but no-where near eliminated. I tried an expensive but cheaper "Monster Cable rival" composite cable and it was about the same or slightly better. Then when my friend was disconnecting it, I was able to watch the screen and as soon as he started wiggleing the wire the bars got so bad they were LITERALLY white! Even while it was still fully connected. Of course, this just confirmed to us that the DVD player was at fault until I read this thread. We connected my laptop via S-Video to watch the DVD and it wasn't really noticable, but after reading this thread I checked again and it is still apparant. This DVD player must output a "low signal" as mentioned earlier in the thread. Because it is not apparant when using the integrated tuner, I urge everyone without an HD-Tuner to use it instead of a VCR or whatever you are using. This bites if I'm going to have to connect my SNES, Genesis, N64, Gamecube, etc through RF.

And to top it all off, the XBOX primarily uses 720p and this TV doesn't agree.

Now, this is actually my first TV purchase ever. I've dealt with freebies and "found at the dumpster" TVs all my life. I have no experience tweaking a modern TV and the AVIA DVD vs. 1080i situation sounds interesting. Does anyone know if any homebrew XBOX software DVD player can play 1080i? That sounds like the perfect solution. I heard there is a flag in the XBE file header which can force the XBOX to output certain progressive modes with any application. Or is the XBOX incapable of 1080i and whoever it was in the thread was full of crap when they mentioned the XBOX and 1080i?

Oh! And one more thing:
The last review of this set @ Circuit City's web site says:
Quote:
This is NOT a HDTV
This cannot be HDTV! By definition, to be HDTV, a set has
to use at least 720 lines of resolution when displaying the programs. This TV has a maximal resolution of 800 lines, but does not support the 720P format. It claims to support only the 1080i format, which actually requires 1080 lines of resolution. Since the TV is incapable of using more than 800 lines, I assume that the 1080i is down-converted to 480P and displayed as 480P - which is NOT HDTV. r 1080i in a 16:9 area or 720p in a 16:9 viewable area. The TXN3075WHF is capable of scanning 1080i in the 16:9 viewable area, thus satisfying the definition of an HDTV Monitor. A 1080i input source is not down converted to 480p. A 1080i input source is scanned at 1080i on all Samsung DynaFlat HD sets. We hope this addresses your concerns and again, we thank you for your comments.
Is this guy full of it? He seems to contradict himself when he says "By definition, to be HDTV, a set has to use at least 720 lines of resolution when displaying the programs. This TV has a maximal resolution of 800 lines" after saying that it is not HD. Anyway, where did he find this "800 lines" spec? I haven't seen it!

Also, does anyone have the downloadable service manual? I'd like to have the discrete codes on file for when I need them :) And you people posting settings for your TV need to mention what TV they are for in the same post. It's ridiculous to have to find your name earlier in the thread or remember it like Rain Man only to find out that they aren't for your TV. I had to use the search function and dig through your other posts to find out :rolleyes:
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post #190 of 280 Old 11-05-2003, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Is this guy full of it? He seems to contradict himself when he says "By definition, to be HDTV, a set has to use at least 720 lines of resolution when displaying the programs. This TV has a maximal resolution of 800 lines" after saying that it is not HD. Anyway, where did he find this "800 lines" spec? I haven't seen it!
That last comment was done by the editor at Circuit City's Review site. Normally the comment is in red, but for some reason this one was not. He was simply correcting the idiot that doesn't understand lines versus pixels.

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post #191 of 280 Old 11-06-2003, 05:33 AM
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Czroe
Here is what Samsung tech support sent me for Discrete Codes. I know the formatting is off b/c the post editor will not keep it, but just view it as the heading explains No. followed by space, HEX code, space and function it provides. These should work for all TXN series TVs and probably other lines, but I have a TXN3271HF.


NO. HEX Function
0 11 0
1 4 1
2 5 2
3 6 3
4 8 4
5 9 5
6 0A 6
7 0C 7
8 0D 8
9 0E 9
10 2 POWER
11 3 SLEEP
12 7 VOLUME-UP
13 0B VOLUME-DOWN
14 0F MUTE
15 1 TV/VIDEO
16 0 MTS
17 10 CH-DOWN
18 12 CH-UP
19 13 PRE-CH
20 19 ADD/DEL
21 1A MENU
22 1F DISPLAY
23 20 PIP ON/OFF
24 21 PIP-SWAP
25 22 PIP-ROTATE
26 23 100
27 24 PIP-INPUT
28 25 CAPTION
29 28 PICTURE-MODE
30 2B SOUND-MODE
31 2F PIP-[Size]
32 31 PIP-SCAN
33 32 PIP-CH UP
34 33 PIP-CH DOWN
35 3B FACTORY
36 3C 3-SPEED
37 3E ASFECT
38 42 STILL-PICTURE
39 5B V-CHIP
40 6E DOLBY Surround
41 7A VCR[Mode]
42 7B CATV[Mode]
43 7D TV[Mode]
44 7E DVD[Mode]
45 60 Up
46 61 Down
47 62 Right
48 66 Left
49 68 Enter
50 6D DNIe
51 56 Fav.CH
Discrete codes
52 99 PowerON
53 98 PowerOFF
54 1B RF
55 C1 Video1
56 F8 Video2
57 F9 Video3
58 85 S-Video1
59 FB S-Video2
60 C2 S-Video3
61 43 Component1
62 FD Component2
63 C3 Component3
64 FF DVI
65 69 PC
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post #192 of 280 Old 11-07-2003, 05:59 AM
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RAYM, how do you access these Hex codes?
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post #193 of 280 Old 11-07-2003, 06:36 AM
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I have been talking with David from BlueDo and the people at IRClone on how to get the codes into an MX-500. I know you can use a JP1 remote to get the hex codes into a button and have something like the MX-500 learn it from that. Or you could just use the cheap remote like a URC-8811 and a JP1 cable from One For All. I like the direction IRClone is going, but they don't have the ability in their software to get hex codes into an MX-500 without going through 3rd party software. It can be done many ways, but I ultimately want the codes on an MX-500 or better remote from Home Theater Master.
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post #194 of 280 Old 11-07-2003, 06:51 AM
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One-for-all has its own advanced code numbers for components; they don't correspond to the hex codes. How do you correlate the two? Do you need a software program, or would you need to call one-for-all with these hex codes ?
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post #195 of 280 Old 11-07-2003, 06:59 AM
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You would have to use JP1.
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post #196 of 280 Old 11-07-2003, 07:04 AM
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What is JP-1? I'm trying to find an easy way to switch between my component and AV inputs, without having to go into the menu via a macro command. If there is a code button that will do it , this is what I am looking for. My Pioneer TV has it on the remote and the one-for-all has an advanced function code so that I can change screen inputs and receiver inputs at the same time (via a macro). Unfortunately, with a direct- view Samsung ,the menu has been the only way to change inputs.
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post #197 of 280 Old 11-07-2003, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by jay koz
What is JP-1? I'm trying to find an easy way to switch between my component and AV inputs, without having to go into the menu via a macro command. If there is a code button that will do it , this is what I am looking for. My Pioneer TV has it on the remote and the one-for-all has an advanced function code so that I can change screen inputs and receiver inputs at the same time (via a macro). Unfortunately, with a direct- view Samsung ,the menu has been the only way to change inputs.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/jp1/

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post #198 of 280 Old 11-07-2003, 10:41 AM
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Ken, thanks for the link!
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post #199 of 280 Old 11-10-2003, 09:21 AM
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I am still having problems with my geometry...is there an equivalent of a tilt setting in the service menu? My screen seems tilted like a computer monitor, and I need to rotate the entire screen a few degrees clockwise...I have the 3071WHF
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post #200 of 280 Old 11-10-2003, 09:28 AM
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Tilt isn't in the service menu, it's in the user menu. It is in the last submenu of the first main menu, next to the color temperature.

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post #201 of 280 Old 11-12-2003, 07:51 AM
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Purchased a TXN3098 from Cambridge Soundworks a few weeks back, finally delivered yesterday ( I was waiting for my TV table to be delivered first). Anyhoo, got it all setup and did some basic Service Menu tweaks last night (fixed red push and turned off all the image enhancement stuff). I also ordered the AVIA disk. Looks pretty good so far. Some points, though:

1. I, too, have a dark vertical band, approx 2" wide, on composite video inputs. This isn't a big problem since I use the component inputs for both my DVD and TV signals, but it is annoying. Does anyone know if there's a definitive fix for this?

2. Screen geometry and color was complete ass out of the box. :) I've fixed the color and will wait for my AVIA disk before fixing the geometry - significant bowing in the top right corner of the screen. I'm just glad I can get at the Service menu. I'm not sure what Samsung expects 'regular' customers to do - do they think every purchaser will be smart enough to fix this themselves? Or are they just happy shipping product that looks crap when it could look very good?

3. A question: My DVD player has Component out, but is *not* a Progressive Scan player (an Apex 660A). Is there a Service menu tweak to get the Samsung to do the necessary line doubling / de-interlacing on the 480i component signal input? Or is the only way to get 480p on Component is to have the DVD player send a 480p signal?
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post #202 of 280 Old 11-12-2003, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
3. A question: My DVD player has Component out, but is *not* a Progressive Scan player (an Apex 660A). Is there a Service menu tweak to get the Samsung to do the necessary line doubling / de-interlacing on the 480i component signal input? Or is the only way to get 480p on Component is to have the DVD player send a 480p signal?
Does it automatically. Anything displayed through the component (actually every input) is line doubled. My Samsung interlaced DVD player looked great when compared to my HTPC which is progressive. I now only use the HTPC but I am of the belief that progressive is not totally necessary.
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post #203 of 280 Old 11-12-2003, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by irwincur
Does it automatically. Anything displayed through the component (actually every input) is line doubled. My Samsung interlaced DVD player looked great when compared to my HTPC which is progressive. I now only use the HTPC but I am of the belief that progressive is not totally necessary.
Cool. How does this relate to 3:2 pull-down? I ask only because I can see jaggies when watching DVDs - I thought 3:2 pull-down and line-doubling was supposed to get rid of this kind of thing. That's why I worry that my non-Progressive component-in wasn't being automatically de-interlaced.
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post #204 of 280 Old 11-13-2003, 12:28 PM
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DVD anything looks pretty rough on the TXN3098 after you've become accustomed to watching 1080i HDTV programming and movies on DTV/OTA.

Put that TV to its potential, turn off your DVD player, and subscribe to HBO/SHO HDTV and just be 1-2 years behind everyone. for 1080i resolution, its worth it.
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post #205 of 280 Old 11-13-2003, 01:39 PM
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Well, the local TV fix it shop picked up my TV last week, and as of today they think it is the powersupply circuit board, and have ordered one to fix it. Hopefully, it fixes the geometry and wavy issues on my TXN3275HF...I guess I'll know next week.
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post #206 of 280 Old 11-14-2003, 12:40 PM
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Got a question. I'm looking at buying the Toshiba 30HF83 or the Samsung TXN3098 and am leaning towards getting the Toshiba. I just found out that when viewing 480i format in normal mode on the Toshiba, it displays gray bars on the sides and you can't change them to black. I realize it supposed to help save the screen but on my current TV (HD but 4:3) thats the way I have it setup and I prefer the black border. Can anyone with the Sammy let me know if you have an option on the border color gray/black. Thanks.

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post #207 of 280 Old 11-14-2003, 02:46 PM
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Grey, no option for black.
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post #208 of 280 Old 11-14-2003, 02:47 PM
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You CAN'T select between gray or black bars on the TXN series. I originally posted you could--sorry. I knew I had the choice (and actually use the gray bars), but that setting is from my HD receiver, a Samsung SIR-TS160. Sorry for the misinformation.
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post #209 of 280 Old 11-14-2003, 09:54 PM
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Why would they implement that only on the 3098?
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post #210 of 280 Old 11-15-2003, 07:50 AM
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Is there any way to make these Samsungs hold their aspect ratio size instead of always switching back to wide mode everytime you change inputs or turn it off?
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