How are RCA F38310 owners doing? - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 1202 Old 07-14-2005, 02:38 PM
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No it doesn't sound like the cap/diode problem. (Based on the symptoms I've experienced).

With that, the TV powers up and the only thing(s) affected are D* and OTA. Component, and other A/V inputs work fine.

You probably have a problem with the main power (supply) board.
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post #272 of 1202 Old 07-20-2005, 11:44 AM
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Knock on wood, my JX5 purchased in December 2001 is still going strong. I have been watching a lot of HDTV with the Motorola 6412 HD DVR for the past year and not many DVD's. The PQ is so much better even when the show is upconverted (IMHO). Blue-ray and HD-DVD still seems to be a taking too long. Is anyone of you using any of the new upconverting DVD players on the beloved F38310? The only upconverting DVD players that I recall that would work through component were the Zenith 318 and the Momitsu. The newer upconverting DVD players work only through DVI. Does anyone have any ideas on how one could get these to work without regulating the F38310 to the scrap heap and buying the "newer" technology?
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post #273 of 1202 Old 07-20-2005, 12:04 PM
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I tried an LG-3510A... I returned it. No improvement to justify the $$.
Also... don't get all excited about HD/BR DVD. Word has it that it will only work over DVI/HDMI so we F38310 owners are SOL (If that's a fact).
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post #274 of 1202 Old 07-20-2005, 01:07 PM
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I have one of the early DVB318's that upconvert via component and I am well pleased with it. I have the 6412 too, and also an LG 3410A DVR, both set to output 1080i to my F38310. This TV does very well with 1080i input.

It looks like we'll have to buy new TV's in order to experience HD DVD's. I'm a bit interested in the Sceptre 37" 1920 x 1080 LCD coming to Costco in August, but we'll have to see how that goes. Latest word on that thread is a possible $199 shipping charge. Pretty incredible for a <60lb TV. I live 3 blocks from a Costco, but evidently the Sceptre is only available from costco.com.

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post #275 of 1202 Old 07-23-2005, 12:20 PM
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Hey guys, Ive read through this whole thread but cannot seem to find the same problem that I have. About 2 hours ago the TV was working fine. Then we moved the RCA 38 inch TV into another room. It wasnt dropped or beaten on the way to the other room, but now in the other room, the sound works fine, but there is no video. The screen power up, but there are red lines that are horizontal and they move up and down randomly. The sound still comes thru the speakers though. Anyone have any ideas?

This was done thru the coax inputs as well as thru S video inputs and its the same problem.

HELP!
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post #276 of 1202 Old 08-02-2005, 05:46 AM
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I have both a question and an idea. Dose anyone know if the dtc 100 that is built in connect internally with a VGA plug? If so, I believe that " digital connections" has converter connectors from VGA to DVI-D. Or an enterprising individual may try to install a firewire connection from a kit . Like many of you I have been trying to figure how to upgrade my set to the new digital reality .
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post #277 of 1202 Old 08-02-2005, 10:22 AM
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DVI-D is digital. VGA is analog... no can do. But I do believe there is an 'open' VGA connector on the inside. What it does (can/could do) is beyond me.

There is a firewire upgrade available at www.169time.com But... it is quite costly IMO.
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post #278 of 1202 Old 08-02-2005, 01:35 PM
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There is a picture of the video I/O board on my homepage:

http://home.austin.rr.com/doctorjoe/video%20card.pdf

While there are board locations for an additional component output and for RGB and DVI connectors, the supporting electronic components on the board are missing. I don't remember seeing any unused outputs on the DM1 module itself. There are pictures of the DM1 module, and a description of the upgrade Rats mentioned in the FAQ, also on my homepage.

I believe the firewire output has very limited value -- it only works on OTA ATSC television. It allows you to record the ATSC channel (and its sub-channels) to be recorded in a "raw" format. You either need a tuner in your recording devices, or else you need to feed it back directly to the F38310 via the firewire input. There is a seperate device you can purchase which allows you to output DirecTV HD channels. I have in my notes that the upgrade cost $1000 -- I think this is for both the DTV device and the firewire mod. Cheaper to buy an ATSC set-top receiver. These notes are several years old.

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post #279 of 1202 Old 08-02-2005, 11:43 PM
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Hi:

After over 3 years, my tube won't come on. The green power light on top is on, but I can't get a picture. This was intermittent for a few days. I would unplug it and let it sit for a while (an hour to 1 day or so) and I could get a picture, but now I can't get a picture at all. I plug it in, the green light comes on but the tube won't show a picture. Is there a reset procedure or something? Do I need to call in a technician? Is the tube likely shot?

Thanks.

-Mike
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post #280 of 1202 Old 08-03-2005, 03:31 AM
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Thanks for the input gentlemen.
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post #281 of 1202 Old 08-03-2005, 03:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pabear View Post

Hi:

After over 3 years, my tube won't come on. The green power light on top is on, but I can't get a picture. This was intermittent for a few days. I would unplug it and let it sit for a while (an hour to 1 day or so) and I could get a picture, but now I can't get a picture at all. I plug it in, the green light comes on but the tube won't show a picture. Is there a reset procedure or something? Do I need to call in a technician? Is the tube likely shot?

Thanks.

-Mike

Unless you have an extended warranty, take a gun out and shoot it. It isn't the tube, it is the electronics.

Call a technician if you want -- there's a slighjt chance he can fix it -- what do you think, Rats, 30%?

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post #282 of 1202 Old 08-03-2005, 06:41 AM
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I agree... probably not the tube.

No picture at all? No menus, no component or A/V inputs either?

I'd find it difficult to send it "out to pasture" without someone taking a look at it.
If it's under an extended warranty, you have nothing to lose. Otherwise... it'll probably cost you at least $100 just for a checkout.

I just hope you have/find a qualified tech that has experience with the F38310.
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post #283 of 1202 Old 08-03-2005, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratman View Post

I agree... probably not the tube.

No picture at all? No menus, no component or A/V inputs either?

I'd find it difficult to send it "out to pasture" without someone taking a look at it.
If it's under an extended warranty, you have nothing to lose. Otherwise... it'll probably cost you at least $100 just for a checkout.

I just hope you have/find a qualified tech that has experience with the F38310.

Hi:

Yes, no pic at all. I can't get menus, inputs or anything. I agree it probably isnt the tube since it did show a nice pic once a few days ago. You really think I should just throw it away? Is there anyway to dispose of it?

-Mike
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post #284 of 1202 Old 08-03-2005, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pabear View Post

Is there anyway to dispose of it?

No extended warranty?
No estimate for diagnosis?

It's a shame... if you were closer, I'd take it off your hands.
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post #285 of 1202 Old 08-16-2005, 11:22 AM
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Hello:

I have a F38310, JX4, purchased about 3 1/2 years ago. Had it serviced under warranty within a couple of months to correct "geometry" issues; I think the capacitors were replaced but never have verified. The unit was ISF calibrated a few months later. Everything has been great.

A week or so ago "horizontal lines" appeared on the screen (retrace?). They are white and vary in number from 8 with standard defintion to 16 with high def material. They are most visible in dark scenes and can be hidden in bright scenes, particuarly HD. The lines also have an "hourglass" starting pattern at the right and left edges. These lines appear on all forms of input; DSS, off air - both SD & HD, component inputs, progressive directly out from the DVD and scaled through a Lumagen to 1080i.

So a few questions.

Is this scenario one of the ones reported with the DM-1-capacitor-diode issue?

Does anyone have a document aiding a DYI effort to replace the capacitors & disodes including parts type/value ?

Does anyone know of a reliable tech in the Portland, OR, area? I can't remember nor find any doc's on the original service call. It appears the a company "Sharper Video" is both a certified RCA service center and ISF certified. Anyone with any experience with them?

Thanks in advance for any help..

Jeff
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post #286 of 1202 Old 08-16-2005, 01:39 PM
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It doesn't sound like the cap/diode problem.

Sure you're not picking up EMI/RFI?
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post #287 of 1202 Old 08-17-2005, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratman View Post

No extended warranty?
No estimate for diagnosis?

It's a shame... if you were closer, I'd take it off your hands.

I have scheduled a service tech to come by next week and check it out. I'll post the relevant info next week.

-MIke
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post #288 of 1202 Old 08-26-2005, 02:55 PM
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The service tech came out yesterday and spent a few hours with the set. He went thru all the service bulletins. He said I had the correct diodes (I recall an old issue with some sets with bad diodes?). He checked voltages on the electronic components. He ended up pulling out all of the electronics and taking it with him. He personally owns one of these sets (and likes it). He said he will swap out the Digital Module and see if mine works in his set. If it is the DM, he said he can get it rebuilt by a large company that does this (I forgot the name).

At any rate, the root problem is not known yet but I should know something by this weekend.

We will see.....

-Mike
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post #289 of 1202 Old 08-29-2005, 11:53 AM
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Well, the service tech said they need to replace the DM (Ditital Module) unit on my F38310. They said a re-built one would be $523+shipping and a new one would be $668+shipping (but they said no new ones are in stock).

That's a pretty expensive repair. I was trying to sell the unit anyway, asking about $600 for it. So, financially there doesn't seem to be much sense in repairing it.

If anyone is interested in a busted F38310 that needs a new DM unit, let me know.

Please act quickly as I need to make a final decision in the next few days.

-Mike
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post #290 of 1202 Old 09-05-2005, 06:51 AM
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I have a 38310 JX5 that is working well. I haven't had any service issues in the 3 1/2 years I have owned it.

I'm thinking that it's time to upgrade to a larger plasma or LCD.

Is anyone willing to hazard a guess as to how much I might be able to sell my 38310 for? I also have the stand that came with the TV.

Thanks
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post #291 of 1202 Old 09-08-2005, 10:08 AM
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Had My RCA 38" Tube almost 3yrs now, "KNOCK ON WOOD". Have conatcted CC to re-new my warranty. And they will let me for 329.99 for 3 more years. Definitely worth it. Specs on this TV are exceptional, Have researched gettting a new HD for the Living room as this one is in the basement, hard to find anything comparable, any ideas of what would be close?

Another Question? How do I determine if my TV is a JX4, JX5 or whatever?

Thanks
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post #292 of 1202 Old 09-08-2005, 11:14 AM
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Mine had to be repaired twice this year. But it seems to be working well again.
I got a notice from CC this week informing me that the extended warranty will expire next month. (I've had this 3 years already?!)

I will not be renewing the extended warranty.
If it blows up again I'll either fix it myself or get one of the new HDTVs that are out right now.

Here's to us Mr. largest widescreen CRT HDTV set ever made owner!

Merry Christmas!
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post #293 of 1202 Old 09-08-2005, 11:33 AM
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I'm in month #51 with my JX5 (DyeLooper, look around the left side at the bottom and you should find the model ID tag), so I have 21 months left on my 2nd (and final) 3yr extended warranty. The SED sets should be available by then, although they seem to be aiming at 50" primarily, and I don't really want one that large. The new JVC 1920 x 1080P 40" LCD sounds promising, but we'll have to see how it does with black levels.

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post #294 of 1202 Old 09-08-2005, 08:45 PM
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UncD2000, thank for the insight. I checked where you said and I have a F38310 YX5. Everyone else seems to have a JX?. Whats the difference between a JX and a YX? Anyone have a clue?

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post #295 of 1202 Old 09-12-2005, 04:09 PM
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Well, after almost 3 years on my floor-model F38310 from CC, I am now having problems.

One day everything was perfect, the next I could barely read text on menus. The program guide from my Dish receiver is really tough to read. The difference is about similar to the difference between a good-quality DVD and a poor quality VHS tape.

I played with all of the video settings after it happened, and lowering the brightness brings some clarity back to text -- at the expense of shadow detail in dark program material. The effect is not tied to any particular input -- component, s-video, and built-in OTA are all similar.

My 3-yr extended CC warranty expires in a month. So I need to call for in-home service (which will cost me a day's wages to sit home and wait around) but I am concerned about how long it might take to fix and renewing the extended warranty. I don't want to put out more money for renewal if the set can't be fixed -- but reading others' experiences, I might not know if it can be fixed until after the option to renew has run out. Especially if the tech jerks me around saying it "looks fine" to him.

Thoughts, anyone ?

*********************
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post #296 of 1202 Old 09-13-2005, 07:04 AM
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Buy 1 more year warranty. $150.00 will save you $$$1000.00 easily in the long run.

"Gotta invest money to make money"
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post #297 of 1202 Old 09-13-2005, 08:08 AM
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It sounds like you are having a problem with the focus.
If so it could be:
1. FBT (Flyback Transformer)
There should be a screen control and a focus control pot located on the side of the FBT.

2. CRT discharge
Sometimes the focus pin on the CRT neck can be zapped with a high voltage coil to help a CRT that is out of focus and cannot be adjusted properly with the focus control on the FBT.

3. Defective CRT - This can only be repaired by replacing the CRT.
This happened to my RCA 32" HDTV (due to a different problem) and CC decided against replacing the CRT.
The TV was field scrapped and they gave me a CC gift card with the full amount I paid for the set plus part of the extended warranty cost.
I used this card to purchase my RCA 38" HDTV.

My advice is to let them repair it under warranty now.
Go ahead and buy the extended warranty if you like.
If they do decide to scrap it you should get most of your money back on a CC gift card.

Merry Christmas!
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post #298 of 1202 Old 09-13-2005, 11:51 AM
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OK, this may sound strange, but the most expensive scenario would actually be if it needs to be taken to a shop, waits months for parts, but is finally repairable.

I figure a tech is going to have to come out: I lose $300 wages staying home waiting for him.

He decides it needs to go into the shop: I lose another $300 when he has to come back another day with a helper to carry this beast downstairs.

It sits in the repair shop for months waiting for parts that eventually arrive, while I have no bedroom TV.

I lose another $300 wages staying home waiting for delivery after it is repaired.

I pay $150 to renew the extended warranty just so there is no question about it being active during this whole period.

So I could be out over $1,000 and end up with a TV that several other people here have needed to have repaired multiple times.

The best-case is that the tech comes out and can repair it on the spot (lose only $300 wages), or declares it is a part that cannot be obtained (lose $300 but CC gives me full refund of $1600 I paid for it.) Then I put that amount towards a Sceptre 37" LCD or something.

Losing wages while sitting around waiting for service guys is not something I figured into the equation when buying the extended warranty. And the likelihood of it requiring multiple visits makes things much more expensive. I wonder if the warranty providers take this into account -- that people may decide the inconvenience/cost is just not worth even using the in-home warranty coverage ?

Argh !

*********************
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post #299 of 1202 Old 09-13-2005, 12:02 PM
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H-m-m-m... sounds like you've already made a decision!

But... if you're going to forego the F38310 and get a new TV, you may as well take a chance and try to adjust the focus yourself for 'gits and shiggles'.

On the back of the set, I believe there are two access 'holes' for focus adjustment.
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post #300 of 1202 Old 09-13-2005, 01:17 PM
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i agree. too much hassle for an inferior model.
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