How are RCA F38310 owners doing? - Page 19 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #541 of 1202 Old 02-06-2007, 10:18 PM
Newbie
 
chivobones's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
OK, my 1st post on this forum.... I own two of the RCA sets and one wont turn on tonite. I used it last nite and everything worked fine, and I have never had a problem with it. Today, the fan is still running but it wont turn on. The remote and the button on the tv turn on the green power lite but thats all I get. I unplugged it while I was out for over an hour and no luck.
Anyone know whats up or know a good repair shop in the Riverside County area?
Obvioulsy I want an inhome repair, that thing is quite heavy.
chivobones is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #542 of 1202 Old 02-11-2007, 10:18 PM
AVS Special Member
 
locomo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Memphis
Posts: 1,313
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by william8004 View Post

I have a Samsung HD841 DVD upscaling player. The F38310 will also accept 768P on the component inputs. It is not listed in the official specs, but it does do it.


Will

Known bug on the Sammy. 768p is closer to 640 x 480p.
If you hook up the Sammy via component to a monitor with 1 to 1 pixel mapping
720p looks right , but 768p looks tiny.
The RCA merely upscales it to fit the screen.
locomo is offline  
post #543 of 1202 Old 03-16-2007, 02:25 PM
SDO
Newbie
 
SDO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I have an RCA F38310 that is out of commission. The repair shop says it needs a power supply at about $650, but no guarantee of performance after repair. Any advice from anyone out there? I am capable of working at the component level, but have no schematics or troubleshooting guide. I would love to get this set back into working order! Thanks!

SDO
SDO is offline  
post #544 of 1202 Old 03-16-2007, 10:06 PM
AVS Special Member
 
locomo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Memphis
Posts: 1,313
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Sorry to hear about.
Obviously for $650, it's not worth the chance.
Check this part of the thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post6989161
locomo is offline  
post #545 of 1202 Old 03-17-2007, 05:16 AM
AVS Special Member
 
locomo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Memphis
Posts: 1,313
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 12
I have to move my RCA to another room that's much smaller.
Never had the manual, so does anyone know what the
minimum clearance is in the back of the TV?
I'm worried about heat.
Thanks
locomo is offline  
post #546 of 1202 Old 03-17-2007, 06:24 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Ratman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Collingswood, N.J.
Posts: 14,302
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 93 Post(s)
Liked: 256
I'd keep the TV at least 4 inches between the back of the Tv and the wall.

Here's the manual:
http://support.rca.com/doc/Device_Do...generic&nvty=m
Ratman is offline  
post #547 of 1202 Old 03-17-2007, 09:05 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Matt L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Flushing, MI
Posts: 4,879
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by SDO View Post

I have an RCA F38310 that is out of commission. The repair shop says it needs a power supply at about $650, but no guarantee of performance after repair. Any advice from anyone out there? I am capable of working at the component level, but have no schematics or troubleshooting guide. I would love to get this set back into working order! Thanks!

SDO

As noted previously I had my powersupply board replaced by Sears last summer. The cost of the board was about $150, and it just popped in. They direct shipped it to me and I was tempted to install it instead of waiting for the service guy, but I thought there might be some adjustments that needed to be made after install, there were none.

Get the part number and start searching for the board, you might be able to do the repair.

BTW, the board they replaced was the one with the bad cap's on it if that is of any help....
Matt L is offline  
post #548 of 1202 Old 03-27-2007, 06:38 PM
SDO
Newbie
 
SDO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by sundowner8 View Post

I've had my F38310 since 2001. Early last year it went out while I was watching it. No smoke, no fire, just like I hit the off switch. The local repair guys were clueless, so I purchased a repair manual and took a whack at it. It had a shorted diode in the standby power supply. Fired it up two weeks ago and the same beautiful picture came back on. With the integrated Directv and OTA tuners, it is truly a unique set (especially when you have to move it).

I have a similar problem with my set. Where was the location of the bad diode, and can you tell me where to get a service manual?

Thanks for your help!

SDO
SDO is offline  
post #549 of 1202 Old 03-29-2007, 08:25 AM
Member
 
RCA don's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 178
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
This is my first post to the RCA 38310 thread since joining the forum earlier this week. My 38310JX4 has continued to deliver a great HD picture since I purchased it in March of 2001, displaying no capacitor/diode problems to this moment. But I've never been a believer in the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." adage.

In an effort to help the recent contributors to this thread who are experiencing power supply problems, searching for parts(capacitors/diodes) or getting $650 repair estimates for power supply repair/replacement, here's what I did to try to avoid the same problem for two of three more years. Yesterday (3/27) I ordered a complete power supply board from Sears Parts. Their price was $80.90 plus about $20 for shipping and handling via UPS Ground for a total price of $102. The board is due to arrive by or before April 9. I'm assuming that the board will contain upgraded capacitors and diodes. Even if that's not the case, I'll have the option of installing it anyway or returning it for a refund within 30 days.

Having reviewed this thread for well over a year, I'm convinced that my approach is the best way to prevent or repair the power supply problem. As MattL, in an earlier post, observed: the power supply board is a relatively simple snap-in module. I confirmed that by pulling the back of my set early this week. A quick examination revealed a couple of diodes with warped and sagging cases and capacitors that didn't match the light blue/gold color configurations of the upgraded ones. The board on my set contains two gray capacitors with maroon and gold bands and a third capacitor right in the middle of the board with a sky blue case and yellow/silver bands. I wouldn't have a clue as to which capacitors, if any of them, should be replaced or if I could solder them properly. Purchasing the complete board takes the guesswork out of the equation.

What's everyone else think? I would welcome feedback from the venerable DrJoe or Ratman if they still monitor this thread. What I'm trying to do is keep the superior picture of this RCA around for two or three more years until 1080P plasmas or the legally-encumbered SED technology present a better picture (and affordable price) than I'm currently enjoying with my 38310.

As soon as the board arrives from Sears, by the way, I'll post the Sears part number and any significant developments during the installation process to this thread.

My set, incidentally, shows 52,000 plus on the odometer. I estimate a total of about 11,000 hours of actual use since I fired it up exactly six years ago this month. Major inputs are a Comcast (Motorola 3416) HD DVR and an LG LDA-511
DVD player modified(hacked) to produce upscaled 1080I through the component output.
RCA don is offline  
post #550 of 1202 Old 03-29-2007, 12:18 PM
Advanced Member
 
jwheeler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Plano, Texas
Posts: 661
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Please do keep us informed and especially the part number of the board. Thanks for posting.
jwheeler is offline  
post #551 of 1202 Old 03-29-2007, 01:08 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Ratman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Collingswood, N.J.
Posts: 14,302
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 93 Post(s)
Liked: 256
Thanks for the input. IMO... a $100 is well worth the peace of mind to have an easily replaced DM1 power supply board on hand.

But I do have to note:
1) The color of the caps that you've described on you F38310 do not seem to be "original".
The caps that fail on the DM1 PS board have a "brown" case. Perhaps your set already have upgraded caps installed before you purchased it. That could possibly explain why your set has not experienced the "problem" after all this time. It shouldn't have lasted this long.
2) You didn't state whether you use the TV's internal tuner. If you don't or never did, perhaps that's a reason. OTOH, hook up your cable or an antenna to check. You may find it's already dead!
3) And lastly... if you never intend to use the TV's internal tuner, then you may want to consider returning the part for a refund since a DM-1 PS failure only affects the internal tuner and not any video inputs. So, you can still use the component and other inputs.

So, based on my assumptions, the PS you have as a "spare" is the PS board for the DM-1 module. It is not a PS board for the main chassis (DTV306), which would present itself as a "complete" failure to the set.
Ratman is offline  
post #552 of 1202 Old 03-29-2007, 02:40 PM
Member
 
RCA don's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 178
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
JS: I'll definitely post the part number shortly after I receive the board, along with the Sears 800 number used to start the order.

Ratman: a belated thanks for all of the valuable insights and information you've generated on the 38310 over the months and years. You've got me going on your response to my part descriptions. let's see if you can confirm that: 1. the power supply module that usually contains the underated caps and diodes is the DM-1 power supply module. That's the one I described and ordered from Sears. 2. As you face the rear of the set with the back cover removed, the power supply module I ordered is situated just to the left of the DM-1 tuner module. It's the tall aluminum box on the left (still facing the set from the rear). Right on both counts?
Or, heaven forbid, wrong?

Yes, I've used the internal tuners sparingly over the years. Tuner A, which I have connected to an indoor amplified Terk HD antenna, produces the strongest signals and best HD I get. Used it for a couple of hours just last Sunday. Tuner B has a straight Comcast cable feed connected (No cable box connection) that generates all of the basic Comcast SD channels. I used it less that two weeks ago for 1/2 hour or so while my DVR was recording two programs. HD problem. Haven't used the Direct VT tuner for over four years. It just sort of sits there taking up space.

Here's the twenty (or in my case $102) dollar question: Is the module I've just described and ordered the one that solves the bad caps/diodes issue?

I probably won't post again until after I receive and install the module.
RCA don is offline  
post #553 of 1202 Old 03-29-2007, 02:52 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Ratman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Collingswood, N.J.
Posts: 14,302
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 93 Post(s)
Liked: 256
Yes that's correct. A "smallish" board about 5 sq. inches. And... just to clarify. The diodes are not underrated. Only the caps. The issue is a cascading effect that when the caps DO fail, that causes the diodes to crap out.

Yes, it sound's as if you have the right board.

But I have ask...

You stated, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." So, why are you installing the new board?
If the set works, leave it be! Keep the board if/when you need it.

As I stated, I think you already have the upgraded caps. So, why mess around? IMO... either keep the board as a "spare" or return it for a refund. But I personally wouldn't be inside a TV that's working properly. Just my $.02
Ratman is offline  
post #554 of 1202 Old 03-29-2007, 05:17 PM
Newbie
 
Drastic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: FL
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hey RCA Don..
How did you order the power supply without the part number?

Thanks

Drastic
Drastic is offline  
post #555 of 1202 Old 03-30-2007, 03:58 PM
Member
 
RCA don's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 178
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
two days after I ordered it from Sears, UPS left the module at my side door sometime this morning(Friday Mar. 30) Nice work Sears and UPS!

J Wheeler and anyone else interested in the part number and related information:

RCA Part Number: 46-356712-3

Sears Parts/Service tele.# 1-800-469-4663

Cost: $80.90 plus UPS ground shipping. Total: $102

Hey Drastic: I called, specified parts order, gave the first rep I talked to the model number of my TV and described the module; he bounced me to a lady at a help desk with access to diagrams (probably schematics) who identified the power supply "card" and completed the order. Everything in life should be that simple.

Senor Ratman: the new module is identical in every way to the one curently in place in my TV, right down to the grey capacitors I described. But it's not about 5" square as you estimated in an earlier post. The board is 12" long x 3-1/2" wide. I suspect your estimated dimensions refer to the rear portion of the board, separted from the front portion by a z-shaped steel partition. The back section contains, among other components, two black-case diodes and a squat rubber cylinder that I guess is a diode as well. The two grey capacitors in that back section have gold, maroon and silver bands. Both are exactly 1/2" long, have leads bent at right angles to the case and pressed into the board, placing the capacitors about 1/2" above the surface of the board. My single key question to you: Does that agree with the physical size and positioning of the underrated caps?
I'm just trying to make certain that I've been staring at the right capacitors. Way up at the other end of this 12" board, there are two smaller brown capacitors (3/8" long) pressed right into the surface of the board and adjacent to a glass fuse. I hope those aren't the problem caps.

Whatever the response, the new module is identical to the one that's currently working like a charm inside my 38310. Other than a little bit of dust, the caps, diodes and fuses et al on my old board seem to be in the same pristine condition as those on the brand new board. Unless I hear from someone that a future failure in the power supply card could take out the DM1 tuner module to which it's attached. I'm just going to keep my new power supply card on hand to serve as a quick fix to any failure that might occur down the line.

In any event, I hope the part number and ordering information at the beginning of this post helps anybody and everybody who's actually trying to revive their 38310.
RCA don is offline  
post #556 of 1202 Old 03-30-2007, 05:39 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Ratman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Collingswood, N.J.
Posts: 14,302
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 93 Post(s)
Liked: 256
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCA don View Post

Whatever the response, the new module is identical to the one that's currently working like a charm inside my 38310. ,,,,,,,

I'm just going to keep my new power supply card on hand to serve as a quick fix to any failure that might occur down the line.


So, as I stated, your DM1 board has already been uprgraded.
Ratman is offline  
post #557 of 1202 Old 03-31-2007, 04:01 PM
SDO
Newbie
 
SDO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
My 38310 is DOA - no fans, no lights, nothing. It sounds like I need to check the main power supply board (DTV306), according to Ratman. Is there a service bulletin or manual that I could get my hands on to help troubleshoot the problem? Is it possible that replacing the infamous caps and diodes would get this set back in service? Any direction anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated!
SDO is offline  
post #558 of 1202 Old 04-01-2007, 08:36 AM
Member
 
RCA don's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 178
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
SDO:
Have to make this quick since I have to start work at the local library at noon. Check my posts about the board I bought from Sears as well as Ratman's knowledgable responses to them. The back of that board is the DM1 power supply. I was just into determining what function the front section of that board served. It just might be main power supply module.
There's a glass fuse in the top left hand corner of the board as you look down on it from the rear of the set.If yours is blown, It could be the problem. Taking a look could help and it sure won't hurt unless you stick you hand in the back of the set with the power cord still attached. I'm gone. Good luck.

My suspicions about the front of the power supply board were wrong. The front is AC input for the tuner module; the back is DC output to the tuner module. I just ordered (4/2) the service manual for the 38310. It's about forty bucks including shipping for the CD version(that's what I ordered); the printed version is about $60. You can order either one at: thomsonnetwork(dot)com (It's a Thomson servicing dealer website but I had on trouble ordering and confirming the CD. Good luck. Post an update when you get a chance. I had to the web address in irrregular form because of AVS Forum restrictions.
RCA don is offline  
post #559 of 1202 Old 04-04-2007, 01:50 PM
Member
 
chrpai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 86
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I recently added a DirecTV HR20 to my F38310. It's workable, but not perfect. If I use the DirecTV & TV Power ON button, both devices do in fact come on but the TV reacts as if I sent it the TV power on and switches to Channel 0 ( I have not ATSC presets ). I then have to hit the Input button 5 times to get it to switch to Component Input.

If I assign an RCA DVD code to AV1 and use the AV1 power button, It'll turn on in Component Video mode ( the input I have assigned to the DVD device ).

Anyone know how to configure the remote in a better way?
chrpai is offline  
post #560 of 1202 Old 04-04-2007, 01:52 PM
Member
 
chrpai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 86
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Ever since I moved last week my F38310 is behaving a little worse then it was before. A small horizontal darkened bar scrolls vertically from the bottom of the screen to the top. It takes about 10-20 seconds to get to the top and start over. It looks a little bit like when you film a TV and play it back.

Any ideas on what to look for to try to resolve this minor annoying issue? It's very subtle, but noticable.
chrpai is offline  
post #561 of 1202 Old 04-06-2007, 05:28 AM
Member
 
hayt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: South Florida
Posts: 138
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I've been living with the vertical scrolling line for over 3 years now. My beast has survived several moves up and down the east coast. So, I guess I'm trying to say, the line is annoying, but in my case at least, it hasn't progressed or led to other problems. (knock on wood!)
hayt is offline  
post #562 of 1202 Old 04-06-2007, 11:19 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Ratman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Collingswood, N.J.
Posts: 14,302
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 93 Post(s)
Liked: 256
sounds like a "ground loop" to me. Plenty of threads to troubleshoot.
Ratman is offline  
post #563 of 1202 Old 04-07-2007, 07:31 AM
SDO
Newbie
 
SDO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks for the info, RCA don! I will definitely follow up using the data you have provided, and will let you know how things go. Again, thanks for your help and advice!

SDO
SDO is offline  
post #564 of 1202 Old 04-09-2007, 08:44 AM
Member
 
chrpai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 86
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratman View Post

sounds like a "ground loop" to me. Plenty of threads to troubleshoot.

Thanks for putting a name on the problem. I'm off to searching now.... The first question I have is has something gone wrong with my TV or is it just how I have it set up.

For example if I moved the TV back to my old house ( not possible; just curious ) and hooked everything up the way it was, would the problem go away, or would it stay because something has broken ( changed ) inside the TV itself...
chrpai is offline  
post #565 of 1202 Old 04-09-2007, 08:48 AM
Member
 
chrpai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 86
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
My first google hits makes me think it's the former and not the latter. But I'm not sure because I know when the XBOX and HR20-100 is OFF ( but not unplugged ) I still see the problem. I'll try unplugging everything but power and see if it goes away.

I wonder if the high voltage, high tower electrical transmittion lines a half a block away from my house could be inducing the 60hz noise..... My Panasonic CT-26WX15 in the bedroom doesn't seem to have the problem and it's a tube TV also...
chrpai is offline  
post #566 of 1202 Old 04-09-2007, 03:16 PM
Member
 
chrpai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 86
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I unplugged and removed every component except for the AC power cable from the wall ( removed the surge supresser also ) to the RCA F38310. The visual effect remains; I can see it when the on screen menu in 4:3 with grey bars.


Does this still sound like a ground loop? If so, do I need to consider some kind of power filter/isolater? Or does this sound like some other problem with my RCA?

I'll keep googling, but if I need some kind of isolator, I'm not sure what I need to buy. I really don't feel like walking into Best Buy not knowing what I need and get some guy to try to sell me on some stupid monster power conditioner or something that is really expenseive.
chrpai is offline  
post #567 of 1202 Old 04-09-2007, 03:26 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Ratman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Collingswood, N.J.
Posts: 14,302
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 93 Post(s)
Liked: 256
Get a heavy duty extention cord and try different power outlet (on a different circuit).

Also... you have "everything" disconneted from the TV right? No external hardware, no connection from cable...
Ratman is offline  
post #568 of 1202 Old 04-09-2007, 05:23 PM
Member
 
chrpai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 86
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Yes sir! I stripped it down to the absolute min connection... the power cord directly from the wall to the back of the TV. Not only did I unplug all connections but I removed all of the components from the general area to make sure nothing was acting as an antenna or inducing magnetic interference ( like speakers ).

I used an extension cord to try plugging it into the outlet that my other TV is plugged into also. Despite the fact that the TV plugged into that outlet looks fine, it only seemed to make the problem on the RCA even worse. I'm guessing a longer cable and/or a lesser shielded extension cord just picks up more interference? As for moving the TV around the house to try different outlets while only using the shorter cord.... well, it IS an F38310........

My best guess is the transmission lines ( the big tall ones with that rusted look to them ... about 100' away ) is putting off so much RF that my old F38310 just can't handle it.

I'm listening to all suggestions boss.
chrpai is offline  
post #569 of 1202 Old 04-10-2007, 09:26 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Ratman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Collingswood, N.J.
Posts: 14,302
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 93 Post(s)
Liked: 256
Try an RF choke (ferrite) on the power cord.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2103222&cp
Ratman is offline  
post #570 of 1202 Old 04-10-2007, 10:09 AM
Member
 
chrpai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 86
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks, will do tonight. I'm not sure why this didn't occur to me. I used to do electronics stuff decards ago.... I guess I've gone soft and have gotten used to just buying components to get the job done instead of coming up with a solution myself.

If the interference goes away after I put the choke on the line ( I'm guessing closer to the TV then the power outlet ... I'll play with it ), I wonder if I'm going to need chokes on any of my other power lines and low voltage path ways.
chrpai is offline  
Reply Direct View (single tube) CRT Displays

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off