Signal Processing on Sony HDTVs - Page 6 - AVS Forum
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post #151 of 176 Old 10-21-2003, 03:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Many thanks, Lance.

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post #152 of 176 Old 01-20-2004, 07:06 PM
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Anything new from any of you guys? I still feel the need to tweak my set. Later...

Dan Bennett

Learning something new every minute.
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post #153 of 176 Old 01-22-2004, 12:33 PM - Thread Starter
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All I've been doin lately is poking around at grey scales (red, green, blue drive and cutoff), color balance and gamma issues. I see some potential for better color accuracy/subtlety in the drive/cutoff features, but haven't got it tweaked just right yet.

Is there something specific you want to address?

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post #154 of 176 Old 01-31-2004, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by ADU
Is there something specific you want to address?
Dan apparently fell-in.

I'll admit to not reading every post in this thread because most of it was over my head (you guys initially figuring out what I probably want to know!).

My initial setup, that I haven't changed, is the XBR910 with the TV tuner (MyHD) on the component input at 1080i. More challenging is the second connection to the Windows desktop on the DVI, which I have at 1360x720p (Radeon 9000, if that matters). I also use fullscreen Cineplayer on the HTPC 'desktop' to play DVD's too. To see the whole desktop I adjusted tilt, squeezed and shifted through the service menu, but I had to leave a bit of overscan because of 'edge artifacts' on video signals. My 4:3 ended-up off center, and my aspect ratio is off when I play DVDs (using a ruler (!) I find 1.2 instead of 1.33333, for instance). Also, on a maximized window, for instance, you can see a bow along the title bar (not a straight line). Finally, occasionally, depending on the OTA signal and it seems more often if I've got the tv zoomed, I'll see a very faint brightness change that passes from the right to my left. It's like a vertical bar of slightly brighter material is passing-by, about once per second. This is the least of my concerns, because it happens rarely, and you really have to be paying attention to see it.

My specific question is, would you recommend 540p and flipping HDPT for the Windows desktop on the DVI? Or does that only change the component input? Maybe I should flip it anyway so my 1080i doesn't get reconverted? Any general recommendations for an XBR910 as an HTPC monitor? What general recommendations would you have for next steps for me? I thought about buying that DVD to provide inputs to allow TV adjustments, but the one I looked at got trashed by reviewers.

Thanks.

--Dale--
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post #155 of 176 Old 01-31-2004, 07:14 PM - Thread Starter
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If you've got 720p working and like how it looks, then 540p may not be worth the bother.

Overall, the bypassed 540p/1080i just seems more pleasing and easier on my eyes on my 34xbr800. However, since the xbr910 has a different tube design, I'm not sure it would make the same kind of difference. It's really hard to say.

Re some of the other HTPC-related stuff, FWIW I posted a couple remarks in Post #133 here.

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post #156 of 176 Old 02-16-2004, 07:38 PM
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hey ADU how much overscan are you seeing in the new 1080i picture? Im seeing quite a lot, and without the MID setting there is nothing much i can do it about, any ideas?
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post #157 of 176 Old 02-17-2004, 11:51 AM - Thread Starter
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2170D_1/ASPT, 2170D_1/SCRL and 2170D_2/HPOS all appear to be independently adjustable for the Full 1080i mode. ASPT changes vertical size, and SCRL changes vertical position.

If the horizontal size needs adjusting too, then 2170D_2/HSIZ may be the only way. I don't think it's independently adjustable for 1080i though.

If you're using a computer input then the controls in Powerstrip can be used for the horizontal size and vertical position instead, so HPOS and ASPT may be all that's needed in the SM. More about that starting at Post #133 of the Computer Input thread.

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post #158 of 176 Old 02-17-2004, 12:44 PM
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Thats cool, is there anyway i can send my satellite signal throught the pc, without losing quality, so i can adjust the sizes through powerstrip.Thanx
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post #159 of 176 Old 02-17-2004, 12:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Dunno about that. And I'm not sure it would really be worth the trouble. I suspect that the SM controls above ought to do the job pretty well if you're not using a computer. Powerstrip is a can of worms you'd probably only want to open as a last resort. :)

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post #160 of 176 Old 02-17-2004, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Some folks have commented in the past that the bypassed 1080i looks rather soft. In addition to the basic velocity modulation and sharpness controls another item that may be worth looking at is 2170P_3/F1LV. This item is input, signal, and picture mode (Pro, Vivid, etc.) sensitive btw. And raising this did seem to sharpen the picture on my TV. YMMV of course.

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post #161 of 176 Old 02-22-2004, 10:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Actually I think I'm gonna have to take the suggestion re 2170P_3/F1LV back. After playing a bit more with the filter settings in 2170P_3, they seem to work a bit more complicated than I thought. F1LV does seem to add more bite, but maybe a better strategy is to undo some of the other filter settings instead. I just don't know though.

FWIW, these are some of the 2170P_3 filter settings I've been focusing most of my attention on lately, SHF0, F1LV, LTLV, LTMD. I'm guessing that SHOF (which is different than SHF0) simply offsets Sharpness in the User Menu, so I don't see that there's much to be gained by changing this from whatever settings are recommended.

SHF0, on the otherhand, seems to add or remove a little horizontal blurring/sharpening. F1LV seems boost the brightness around high-contrast edges. LTLV seems to punch up the highlights a bit. LTMD also seems to effect the horizontal clarity and appears to work in conjunction with LTLV. (LTMD only seems to have an effect when LTLV is set higher than 0.)

I can see the effects of these most easily with a finally detailed geometric pattern (like the text on my PC), with Clear Edge Velocity Modulation turned all the way off in the User Menu, and Sharpness perhaps around 50%.

Above settings are all signal, input and picture mode sensitive.

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post #162 of 176 Old 03-07-2004, 01:37 PM - Thread Starter
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FWIW, These are some of the features I'm exploring to customize the bypassed 33.75khz(540p/1080i) video on my 34xbr800, along with some speculation re how some of them may work. Since my interest is solely in tweaking the bypassed 33.75khz picture, input- and signal-based SM adjustments for basic things like Color, Brightness & Contrast are mostly ignored here. Those are just handled via the basic User Menu controls instead. It's also possible that adjustments to some of the parameters here (particularly the global parameters) could be destructive to the PQ of other signals and inputs than 1080i.

This is still very much a work in progress and may be edited/updated frequently, so use any and all info here entirely at your own risk. Needless to say this material is not intended for newbies, and should be regarded as purely experimental by others. Service Menu adjustments have the potential to screw up the picture on your TV, irreversibly in some cases if you don't know what you're doing. Info on obtaining genuine Sony service menus and tech support (as opposed to all this speculation) from Sony can be found in my signature.

COLOR BALANCE (COLOR DECODERS, HUE & SATURATION)
  • CXA2151/MATRIX
    Not sure exactly what this does yet. Appears to change the TV's color matrix (for 1080i?). It's possible this might change the color space on the TV. But it may not reveal these differences accurately unless the other color controls in the TV are correctly balanced or neutralized. WARNING: This value is automatically stored without being saved to memory. So be sure to record the original value before changing it. This appears to infuence all other color settings on the TV, including the grey scales and color decoders. I do not know if there's any value in changing this from the default yet.
  • CXA2151/CBGN
    CXA2151/CRGN
    CXA2151/YGN
    These may re-configure or offset the Color Decoders (for 1080i in relation to other signals?).
  • USER MENU/COLOR
    Color Saturation, and the Blue Color Decoder adjustment. For the most accurate color, this value should not be changed after the Color Decoders are calibrated.
  • USER MENU/HUE
    Rotates Hue, and is also used for Blue Color Decoder adjustment, if the Color saturation adjustment alone isn't satisfactory.
  • 2170P_4/RYR
    2170P_4/RYB
    Red Color Decoders. These control the intensity of red in relation to others colors.
  • 2170P_4/GYR
    2170P_4/GYB
    Green Color Decoders. These control the intensity of green in relation to other colors.
  • Post #2 here gives an example of a procedure for adjusting COLOR, HUE and the Red and Green Color Decoders (mainly via an HTPC). Calibration tools like AVIA and DVE may use use a somewhat similar approach. Note that since there are other parameters that can effect the Color Decoder calibration, such as CXA2151/MATRIX, CBGN, CRGN & YGN, that the values shown there are not universal. The procedure must be performed for most accurate results. For the same reason, adjusting the Color Decoders at 480p may not necessarily yield accurate results for 1080i.

GREY SCALE
  • USER MENU/COLOR TEMP
    This selects from three different configurations of Grey Scale offsets at 2170P_1/SBOF, RDOF, GDOF, BDOF, RCOF, GCOF, BCOF. On my TV, the these SM registers have the same values for both the Neutral and Warm Temp modes. However, I believe the Neutral Temp is actually a fixed mode that cannot have these particular offsets customized.
  • 2170P_1/YOF
    2170P_1/CBOF
    2170P_1/CROF
    These appear to offset the color balance for different signals and inputs.
  • 2170P_1/RDRV
    2170P_1/GDRV
    2170P_1/BDRV
    Grey Scale Drive adjustments. These control the neutrality/purity of whites.
  • 2170P_1/RCUT
    2170P_1/GCUT
    2170P_1/BCUT
    Grey Scale Cutoff adjustments. These control the neutrality/purity of blacks.
  • The Grey Scale Drive and Cutoff controls interact with each other. When both sets are accurately adjusted, blacks, whites and greys will all look as neutral and distinct from other colors as possible. Page 6 of the GWII FAQ outlines a procedure for adjusting grey scales. For best results, I suspect that all the other color adjustments above should be made before the DRV & CUT Grey Scale settings.

    FWIW, I approached Grey Scale adjustment similarly to the GWII FAQ, but with a few differences. For example, I displayed a series of color photos on the screen along with some grey scales and color bars. I started with both RDRV and RCUT at 31, then disabled the blue gun in the CRT with 2170P_2/RGBS, adjusted the GDRV and GCUT until reds, greens and yellows were most distinct. Then I re-enabled all RGB guns via RGBS, and adjusted BDRV & BCUT until whites, greys and blacks looked as pure, neutral and distinct from all other colors as possible. Whether this is the best way to approach things, I can't say, but it seemed to make things a bit easier for me.

    Footnote #1: It's possible that the DRV/CUT could be adjusted in tandem (using the same values for both) for each color, if some of the other color adjustments above are neutralized first (including perhaps Temp, CBOF & CROF). This is the way it seemed to work on my TV anyway. However, because there are so many other variables involved, I can't promise this will work for others.

    Footnote #2: Also, another thought which occurs to me is that there may be a different way of adjusting grey scales involving the YOF, CBOF, CROF. Haven't had an opportunity to experiment with this yet.

GAMMA, BLACKS & CONTRAST
  • USER MENU/PICTURE MODE
    Each Picture mode (Vivid, Standard, Movie & Pro) uses a different configuration of gamma and black enhancement.
  • 2170P_4/GAMM
    This controls the gamma, aka the brightness of midtones in the picture. This is signal/input/picture mode sensitive, but fairly uniform within each Picture mode. See the next post in this thread for more on Gamma.
  • 2170P_4/BLK
    Chooses from four different configurations of black enhancement (designed to go with each Picture mode). Like GAMM, this is also signal/input/picture mode sensitive, but fairly uniform within each Picture mode.
  • 2170P_4/DCTR
    This is BLK sensitive. IOW, each BLK mode can have a different DCTR setting. This is the DC Transmission Ratio I believe, whatever that means. It appears to control how enhanced (or crushed) the blacks are. Slightly enhanced blacks may help improve the black retention, and apparent contrast of the picture, but at the possible expense of some loss in shadow detail. There are other settings in 2170P_4 involved in configuring the BLK modes in addition to DCTR, but I haven't sorted those out yet.

    NOTE: Although it is possible to individually adjust GAMM, BLK & DCTR for greater fine-tuning, four different basic configurations of these can also be selected by simply changing the Picture Mode.
  • USER MENU/PICTURE
    This controls the white level, and amount of contrast in the picture.
  • USER MENU/BRIGHTNESS
    This controls the black level. Black level may drift slightly based on how high Picture/contrast is set. So adjust Picture/contrast first, then Brightness after that. Black level also needs to be adjusted lower for 7.5IRE video sources than for 0IRE sources.

    NOTE: Both PICTURE and BRIGHTNESS can also change the percieved gamma relative to the ambient light in the room. See more in the next post below.

CLARITY, DETAIL & EDGE ENHANCEMENT
  • USER MENU/CLEAR EDGE VM
    Velocity Modulation. Appears to enhance high-contrast edges, by making fine details and countours a bit darker and bolder, and may also combat blooming. Note that each Picture mode uses different VM configurations for its Clear Edge VM options. So, for example, High Clear Edge VM is more extreme in the Vivid mode than in the Pro mode.
  • USER MENU/SHARPNESS
    Edge enhancement.
  • 2170P_3/SYSM
    2170P_3/SHF0
    2170P_3/F1LV
    2170P_3/LTLV
    2170P_3/LTMD
    Add'l edge filtering/sharpening controls. These settings are signal, input & picture mode sensitive. See post above.

    NOTE: In the TV's default configuration, there's a particular relationship between gamma, contrast and edge filtering/sharpness adjustments in the various Picture Modes.
  • D-CONV
    Convergence controls. Used to align the red, green and blue scans in a horizontal direction. These values will probably be different for each TV. Contrast seems to influence how these get adjusted on my TV, so I set the Contrast/Picture first, erring on the high side before adjusting these.

ENVIRONMENT
  • AMBIENT LIGHTING
  • VIEWING DISTANCE
    There's an interesting relationship between the contrast on a display and viewing distance. It seems as though the closer you sit, the less contrastis needed, for example. Gamma may also figure into this too.

FWIW, I still suspect that there could be a more straightforward way of neutralizing the color on these TVs without using the complicated procedures above, and just haven't cracked the code yet. Not sure about this though.

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post #163 of 176 Old 03-22-2004, 09:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Adjusting contrast (User Menu/Picture on Sonys) can also effect the perceived gamma (ie brightness of midtones/greys) on the TV, in addition to the peak white intensity. The same is true of Brightness. Raising either Brightness or contrast will also tend to brighten the perceived gamma if the surrounding illumination stays fixed.

Getting gamma well-adjusting is IMO one of the most important factors in acheiving a comfortably watchable image on a CRT. Perhaps even more important than achieving solid black levels.

The three basic factors that effect the percieved gamma on a TV are the Brightness (black level) and Contrast (white level, usually called "Picture") on the TV, and the brightness of the surrounding illumination. All three can be used to change the percieved gamma. Each has it's upsides and downsides. Increasing the contrast on the TV can increase the risk of burn-in, phosphor wear, blooming etc., while boosting Brightness may make the blacks less solid.

And if the surrounding illumination is too low or too high, then it may give you less range of effective ajdustment on the TV. If it's too low then you may start to see problems like phosphor trails or strobing. If it's too high (and you try to boost Contrast on the TV to compensate) then there can be other unpleasant consequences like blooming, etc as well as the risk of greater burn-in.

Gamma adjustments can also be found on STB/DVD players, HTPCs (in the Overlay/Video Settings), and in the service menus of TVs. Because there are so may factors that can influence the perceived gamma on a TV, accurately adjusting it can take a bit of practice. FWIW, there's more on this subject here and here.

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post #164 of 176 Old 07-30-2004, 09:35 AM
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This is digging up an old, but very useful thread...

I applied the signal bypass to my 34XBR960 and it's definitely putting 540p signals into a true progressive mode rather than scaling it to 1080i. There is definitely a nice visual improvement on material from my HTPC. There is one really annoying and slightly frightening side effect though....the onscreen menu literally bounces side-to-side on the screen now, so much that it makes me dizzy trying to keep my eyes on it. It literally moves across the entire width of the television and back again. The service menu type looks fine, but any other on-screen menu (either from hitting display or menu on the remote) is completely whacked out.

I obviously don't want to see the OSD bouncing around everytime I swap to a different input or pull up the menu, so for now I'm leaving the HDPT setting at 1.

Has anyone else seen this or would be able to explain it?
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post #165 of 176 Old 08-05-2004, 10:05 AM - Thread Starter
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??

Haven't noticed that on my 34XBR800. I'll try to give it some more thought.

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post #166 of 176 Old 08-21-2004, 09:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Slightly revised some info above in posts #162 & #163, particularly on gamma.

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post #167 of 176 Old 09-07-2004, 01:59 PM - Thread Starter
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One of the things that users with the bypassed signal often complain about is that the picture looks too soft. So I thought I'd offer a few more thoughts on this. FWIW, here's the way the various sharpening features seem to be shaking out for a bypassed progressive 540p signal on my 34XBR800.

I am basically leaving Clear Edge VM off now (this is all in Pro Picture mode). And I now use just the User Menu/Sharpness control for any sharpness adjustments needed. This seems to add higher frequency edge-enhancement than VM (which made bolder edges on my TV). Sharpness comes in very handy for adjusting the clarity of DVDs, which can sometimes get a bit soft due to scaling on my HTPC. On some scaled DVDs, I can nearly max out the Sharpness with pretty acceptable results. Others mileage may vary of course.
  • 2170P_3/SYSM = 3
    This may have been the default on my TV. The best setting could vary for different TVs though.
  • 2170P_3/SHOF = default
  • 2170P_3/SHF0 = 0
  • 2170P_3/F1LV = 0
  • 2170P_3/LTLV = 0
    Increasing this seems to sharpen high-contrast edges, giving the picture a more 3D look.
  • 2170P_3/LTMD = 0
Basically after turning off most of the above filters and Clear Edge VM, the User Menu/Sharpness control seems to be pretty much all the adjustment I need to acheive the level of sharpness in the bypassed 540p picture I want. Not sure if it'll work the same way for 1080i. If you want an even greater sense of 3-dimensionality though, then 2170P_3/LTLV might be worth experimenting with too.

Again, this info is for experienced SM users, not novices, and may not work well for other TVs. So use this info at your own risk.

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post #168 of 176 Old 09-07-2004, 03:02 PM
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Has anyone else tried this on a 960 yet and experienced the bouncing menus?

I assume that this may have something to do with the overhaul that Sony made on the menu system.
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post #169 of 176 Old 09-11-2004, 05:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Phantastica,

Since I haven't played with your model and have no reel background in video engineering, I hesitate to suggest anything for fear of making matters even worse. But it sounds as though there's some kind of sync issue here between the OSD and carrier video. Did you try changing the position of the OSD? Are you using Powerstrip? And if so have you tried changing the horizontal sync from 60Hz (standard for computers) to 59.947Hz (standard for HDTVs)?

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post #170 of 176 Old 09-11-2004, 06:22 PM - Thread Starter
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As mentioned in post #162 above, one option for gamma adjustment in addition to using your player, ambient lighting, etc. is simply to turn up the gamma on the TV itself. Both the Vivid and Standard modes have increased gamma. These modes could have some add'l black enhancement as well. It may also be possible to adjust gamma on the TV directly via SM controls like 2170P_4/GAMM as mentioned above, to perhaps boost gamma on the Pro mode, for example. These are a few of the potential pros and cons of boosting gamma on the latest Sony CRTs as I see them.

PROS
- phosphor lag/persistence/trails not as visible, resulting in more watchable image, and perhaps less eye strain from trying to make out darker details.
- more easily viewable from greater distances.
- more watchable in higher ambient light surroundings or daylight.
- more forgiving to a variety of content, especially darker DVDs, meaning less fiddling and tweaking of the source.
- less contrast needed for picture to be watchable, which could also equal less blooming, ghosting, etc. due to overdriven contrast/white level.
- blacks are generally less muddied (except for internal reflections)
- clearer motion in darker areas of image.
- no potentially lossy resampling of color palette as with player-based gamma and contrast controls.

CONS
- less accurate picture with some (or most?) sources.
- reduced sense of depth, dynamism and realism to picture.
- colors may appear more washed out.
- reduced subtlety in darker shades.
- grain, noise and compression artifacts may be more apparent. (Increased grain/noise could be considered either a pro or con depending on your POV. My eyes actually seem to prefer a little noise.)
- blacks may tend to look more fogged due to brighter overall picture and stronger diffuse internal reflections.
- problems with color balance in darker colors (grey scale cutoffs) could be more apparent.
- brighter image could increase wear on tube/phosphors and potential for burn-in (though this could be somewhat offset by the need for less contrast).

The first "pro", namely the reduced visibility of phosphor lag, is probably the most compelling. In my experience, this can make the picture alot more watchable. Every technology has weaknesses, and unfortunately lower contrast and higher phosphor persistence seem to be among the worst on this generation of Sonys. Boosting gamma is perhaps one of the more effective ways of dealing with this, though it may have some aesthetic and other tradeoffs.

As with all posts in this thread, this info is a work in progress, should be taken with a grain of salt, and used entirely at your own risk. These apply only to CRTs btw. Other technologies may work differently.

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post #171 of 176 Old 09-11-2004, 06:24 PM
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The menu bounces on all inputs, not just the HTPC, but it does seem kind of like a sync issue. It doesn't tear, it just literally bounces back and forth. Going into the progressive mode definitely made the input from my HTPC look a lot better, but it's not worth it to have to live with the bouncing menu. I didn't try repositioning the menu.
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post #172 of 176 Old 09-11-2004, 06:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Fair enough. What are you using for HTPC input btw, DVI, or maybe the ATI component adapter?

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post #173 of 176 Old 09-12-2004, 07:49 AM
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I'm using the ATI Component adapter. I tried using a DVI->HDMI connection, but the resolutions were really limited. I'm not sure if it was my Radeon 9800, or the XBR960, but any timings that strayed from the standard 1280x720 DVI/HDCP setting in Powerstrip caused the image to disappear altogether. So through the DVI connection, I wasn't really able to create a custom res/timing to eliminate overscan (even if my scan frequencies were locked).

With the component adapter, I've been able to hit all sorts of custom resolutions, which is great because I'm using my HTPC for everything (web,gaming,movies,apps,etc). I also didn't notice any improvement in image quality between the two connections.
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post #174 of 176 Old 10-15-2004, 08:31 AM
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ADU and gang,

I've been out of the loop on getting back to calibrating greyscale and fixing color decoder errors on my Sony 36HS510 for awhile, but now that I have my buddy's ColorFacts setup, I'd like some info.

Can you tell me what specific settings in the Service menu pertain to the greyscale and color decoder, contrast, brightness and tint and gamma for this set? My understanding is that I will have to tweak a couple different menu's depending on the input signal type that I am using to calibrate. For the time being, I will only be calibrating 1080i via the Component Video input and 480i via the Component video input as well, in addition to S-video at 480i. One component input is hooked up to my Samsung TS160 STB at 1080i, while also being connected via S-video at 480i for SDTV viewing and the other Component input is connected to my old Toshiba 480i DVD player.

So, in total... here's what I have connected:

DVD player -> Component Video -> 480i
SDTV STB -> S-video -> 480i
HDTV STB -> Component Video -> 1080i

Also, it is my understanding that rather than using the filters provided with Avia or DVE, I can just turn off the individual color guns and tweak the color decoder settings until the boxes match the columns in hue and saturation, is this true?

Thanks and regards,
Jeff
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post #175 of 176 Old 10-16-2004, 03:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Why you gotta ask such hard questions, Jeff? ;)

COLOR DECODERS

OK. Per Post #162 above, I guess your basic Color Decoders are 2170P_4/RYR & RYB (red), GYR & GYB (green). These are global. Blue decoding is set using Color (saturation) and if necessary, Hue. If you need to adjust Color and Hue differently for separate inputs, it looks like that could probably be done with 2170P_4/SCOL & SHUE. These appear to be the sub-color and sub-hue controls. 2170P_4/SPIC appears to be the sub-contrast control.

GREY SCALE

The grey scale drive controls (purity/neutrality of whites) are:

2170P_1/RDRV
2170P_1/GDRV
2170P_1/BDRV

Grey scale cutoffs (purity/neutrality of blacks) are:

2170P_1/RCUT
2170P_1/GCUT
2170P_1/BCUT

These are all global. As mentioned above though, the different Color Temps (Warm, Neutral, Cool) appear to be configured by add'l offsets to these DRV/CUT controls. What that probably means is that only one Temp can be configured for accurate color balance. So which do you choose? The conventional wisdom is Warm. However, I used Neutral because it appeared to have no offsets, and I think this may have helped in adjusting the DRV/CUT values in tandem (see Post #162 above for more). Don't know if this was the right way though.

If you want to disable the different red, green and blue guns instead of using the color filters, that can be done with 2170P_2/RGBS.

2170P_1/SBRT is a global Brightness (black level) adjustment, if you need more elbow room than the User Menu allows. If you need to adjust Brightness differently for each input, offhand the only way I know how one might do that is via 2170P_3/UBOF. The problem with this control is that it appears to be input & signal & picture mode sensitive (unlike the 2170P_4 sub-controls), so it may take quite a bit of work to configure it for all possible combinations of these. Just so you know, configuring 2170P_3/UBOF for all possible inputs, signals and picture modes means setting up to 56 different values. :) It's quite possible there could be other better ways of separately configuring Brightness via some other black level/enhancement controls in the SM as well, but that's territory I haven't charted. Might be somethin bout this in the XBR910 SM thread though.

Gamma is set with 2170P_4/GAMM. This control is regrettably also input, signal and picture mode sensitive, although in it's default condition, the values are fairly uniform for each picture mode (on my TV anyway). Pro=0, Movie=0, Standard=1 (mostly), Vivid=3 (mostly). Most people use Pro. Lower values will give you a picture with greater sense of depth and dimension. Many people like Gamma set higher on the Sonys though, because it makes the picture more watchable in daylight, and brings out more picture information in darker areas, which tend to get drowned out by phosphor trails, internal reflections, etc. at the lower gamma settings. In short, higher gamma means brighter midtones/easier to watch, but not as much depth or fidelity. See gamma posts above for more.

There are probably some important bits left out, but that's about all that comes to mind at the moment. The XBR910 SM thread may also be worth perusing for ideas. I'd also recommend getting a service manual if you don't have one.

Using only one input can make the calibration alot easier btw. ;)

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post #176 of 176 Old 10-18-2004, 07:41 AM
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LOL... thanks, ADU. I figure, why ask the easy questions that your average newbie could answer. I want to cause some brain pain with MY posts. :)

I've had the 910 SM thread bookmarked for some time... looks like I might have to go back into that monstrousity and peruse it some more. Thanks for the info.

Regs,
Jeff
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