The OFFICIAL KD-36XS955 Thread... - Page 12 - AVS Forum
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post #331 of 965 Old 05-19-2005, 09:19 PM
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When I'm watching 4x3 Bell Expressvu Sat., and I bring up the Guide, there is a dimming of the overall image depending on which channel bar I'm glossing over.

For Bell Expressvu the menu consists of about 6 blue rows of programming material. These blue rows or bars are at a pretty strong intensity. As you move down them, they highlight as a light powder blue.

Here's what I find very interesting. If you highlight one of the blue bars in the center of the screen, the whole image dims by about 10%+. If you highlight a blue bar that falls outside of the 16x9 general area there is no dimming!

So, if there is a built-in light limiter, the sensor has only to do with the center portion of the screen. I'm also betting that there is no service menu option to adjust the sensitivity of this "switch" though software, but there probibly is an adjustment for the inside back. It's probably something set at the factory to a "general" or safe range. Where ever this adjustment item is (if there is one) I'm confident you could at least lighten the effect of this dimming to a satisfactory amount.
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post #332 of 965 Old 05-19-2005, 10:20 PM
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I just bought a KD-36XS955 about a month and a half ago, after much reading on AVS forums. Overall, I love the picture, but I've noticed a couple problems that I would like fixed, but I'm wondering if expecting perfection, and it's just not going to happen. Some of the things I've noticed are:

1. At the top of the screen, in the middle, the red beam is out of alignment (too high). White horizontal lines going across the top of the screen (such as the program guide) have a red edge on the top, in the middle of the screen. Alignment everywhere else seems to be pretty good.

2. Horizontal lines bend down slightly on the right edge of the screen.

3. When displaying a solid color on the entire screen, the center of the screen is brighter, especially when displaying white. The top left corner of the screen seems dimmer than the other corners.

I know that direct view CRTs are prone to these sorts of issues. Is it reasonable for me to expect a technician to fix these problems? Or do I just have to accept these as "normal" for a direct view CRT tube? (When viewing normal video, they're really not noticable.)

I've purchased the AVIA DVD, and used it to do user-level calibrations (not service mode stuff). It definitely helped. I've read most of the recent posts here regarding calibrations (I've found KenTech's posts to be especially interesting), but I'm more than a little afraid of diving into the service menus myself, especially while it's still under the 90 day service warranty. I'd rather have a qualified Sony-authorized technician do it, but I'm wondering if they'll just say it's within specs. If they tell me there's nothing they can do, can I try to fix these problem myself in the service menus? Or does it take special hardware?

Thanks (and sorry for all the questions)!
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post #333 of 965 Old 05-20-2005, 12:23 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by higgs05

1. At the top of the screen, in the middle, the red beam is out of alignment (too high). White horizontal lines going across the top of the screen (such as the program guide) have a red edge on the top, in the middle of the screen. Alignment everywhere else seems to be pretty good.

2. Horizontal lines bend down slightly on the right edge of the screen.

3. When displaying a solid color on the entire screen, the center of the screen is brighter, especially when displaying white. The top left corner of the screen seems dimmer than the other corners.

Are you sure you haven't been watching my TV? :-) Situations nos. 1 and 2 are almost certainly static alignment/convergence issues accomplished with magnet adjustments inside the set. I would find out, for your area, what Sony authorized repair dealer/center has a really good "magnet guy," and get him to come out under warranty. Ask around at the local high-end specialty stores that sell Sony and other good CRT TVs. You lose only if the guy is an idiot and makes it worse.

For that dark corner, ask him to fix the "landing" settings in service mode for that corner. My upper-left corner was dark, too, and I easily fixed it (my very first act in service mode). It's #0 (LT) in the "Landing" group. I touched up the other corners, too, (nos. 1-3) and it's quite even now.

For #3, I think we all have to live with that. The set I auditioned at the store where I bought mine, my own set, and one I've seen since at Fry's all have "hot" centers. Probably a quirk of the electric/magnetic lens that has to somehow focus the beam over that huge screen and at severe angles on a flat screen. I haven't looked critically at a 34" set for the same problem.

You're right in that one can go thru a whole evening of enjoying the set without ever noticing the hot spot, unless you really look for it. But on those slow, outdoors horizon-and-sky pans, I really see it! But, for me, it's a small imperfection in an otherwise stupendous display.

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post #334 of 965 Old 05-20-2005, 10:23 AM
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Thanks for the great info! That clears up the questions I had about what can be fixed in the menus, what requires hardware (magnets) and what is normal for a direct view tube. I'll try to get someout out, and hope they are a magnet master!

All in all, I'm very pleased with the set. It took me a while to get used to SD DirecTV on it, but DVDs, OTA HD and the Xbox all look fantastic. It's funny how I notice things like compression artifacts and brightness/black level issues much more on this set than on my old KV-27V25. Of course, I paid a lot more for the 36XS955, so I have higher standards.

KenTech, thanks for all the great posts. I look forward to reading your future discoveries and I might even dive into the service menus myself some day.
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post #335 of 965 Old 05-20-2005, 12:32 PM
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I had a Sony tech visit recently to fix the geometry on my 36xs955 (a horizontal bend in wide-screen mode) and convergence and asked him about use of magnets.

He replied that the new sets - such as 36xs955 - do not need magnets as the geometry adjustments are done electrostatically through the service menu.

He was able to improve the convergence and geometry though not completely (convergence is OK in the center but worse on the sides) and there is still some horizontal bow. But it's better now.

So do magnets offer some advantages over the electrostatic adjustments in the service menu or did the Sony guy take the easy way out?
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post #336 of 965 Old 05-20-2005, 03:06 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by wohlstad
He replied that the new sets - such as 36xs955 - do not need magnets as the geometry adjustments are done electrostatically through the service menu. . . . So do magnets offer some advantages over the electrostatic adjustments in the service menu or did the Sony guy take the easy way out?

Obviously this fool hasn't read the service manual!

Sections 2.1 to 2.3 of the manual deal exclusively with the adjustment of the magnetic assemblies (purity, hexapole, TLH plate) for static convergence and purity. That means any *vertical* misalignment of the three colored beams. So if a scan line has a colored fringe or displacement up or down, that's magnets! Dynamic convergence is controlled by service-mode adjustments. That would be *horizontal* displacement/misalignment of the colored beams. Sect. 2.3.4 covers that. But it's still a *magnetic* adjustment.

Upward or downward bowing of the horizontal scan lines is not affected by any adjustment available through service mode. That would be a magnet adjustment. There are no provisions I can find in the manual for physically adjusting anything on the circuit boards.

There is no evidence that electrostatic deflection or geometry compensation is used anywhere in these sets. Everything refers to "magnets" and "coils."

I don't think that tech know what he's talking about, IMHO.

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post #337 of 965 Old 05-20-2005, 11:21 PM
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Well, just as soon as I decided to get this set-Best Buy has discontinued them!! There is only one unit available in my area, an open boxer with significant damage to one leg & the lower part of the cabinet on one side(The screen and immediate surrounding bezel look OK) . I can get it for $300 off retail + a %15 off open box coupon. Here's the question- could the damage just be something like an errant forklift which would not affect the picture or was it dropped while moving it and scrambled up internally. Should I take a chance on it and if so what should i look for in testing it out before purchase? I need to make a decision fairly quickly, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic"-Arthur C. Clarke
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post #338 of 965 Old 05-20-2005, 11:38 PM
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Being the tinkering type, I think I'm going to pull the housing off the back of this TV to take a look at what kind of manual switches the board and gun have. Won't do anything crazy or start jamming screwdrivers all over the place.. just want a peak

On a different matter, concerning cables....

I wrote a while back about using just Component (YPBr, you know the deal) from my Arcam amp into the TV. My Amp can upconvert any lesser signal such as S-Video or Composite, along with higher res DVD, to go out of the Component cable for a single connection to your TV.

The Arcam also allows me to run both an S-video and a Component cable at the same time to my TV. SD and DVD can pass though the Component, while only SD can pass though the S-cable. I have thus labled Input 6 as "DVD" (component) and Input 3 as "SAT" (s-video).

The reason I've decided to run both is that with SD material, the S-video cable seems to retain some of the depth of color much better than when it gets upconverted though the receiver's Component outputs. And since there's no more or no less signal compared with either cable type (it is just a 480i signal) sharpness between the two runs, when comparing the same materials though the different TV inputs (and similar picture settings), seems indistinguishable. For the S-video cable to beat Component in SD it will take a fairly pricy purchase. A low-grade S-video cable will loose clarity and muddy the picture. DVD though component though, unlike SD material, is properly saturated and just looks stunning. So don't get me wrong, component cable is worth the money. But S-video, REAL GOOD S-video, can also be worth the money.

Happy Watching!
Paul
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post #339 of 965 Old 05-21-2005, 02:52 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by logoguy905
Being the tinkering type, I think I'm going to pull the housing off the back of this TV to take a look at what kind of manual switches the board and gun have.

The service manual's photos show the strange-looking subwoofer assembly sitting draped over the top of the CRT, sort of in the way of everything on the neck of the CRT. The boards are down below, but access to the purity and convergence magnets may require removing the subwoofer first. I hope not.

My perusal of the circuit-board schematics didn't show a single adjustable component, resistor or otherwise. The HV transformer has three, for Focus and Screen voltages.

Good luck. I'm going to try this some day to touch up the geometry and purity. I think the deflection yoke is slightly crooked (not twisted).

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post #340 of 965 Old 05-21-2005, 05:59 PM
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I had a service call on this set a few weeks ago to replace the HDMI
module. While the back of set was off, I took a look around and found
several stick on type magnets applied to the back of the tube for vertical or
color purity correction.

Regarding the subwoofer assembly, it is connected with two screws and is easily removed. While studying the sub assembly, I noticed it seemed less than rigid. I wondered if it could be reinforced with additonal bracing and thus improve bass response. I may try this when the warranty period is up.

By the way, don't bang or push your HDMI cable laterally while inserting or
adjusting other connetions. This was done on my set and broke the solder
connections between the HDMI plug and the circuit board. I've heard TIVO
owners complain about this weakness in particular.
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post #341 of 965 Old 05-22-2005, 08:26 PM
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I saw an Open Box 34XS955 at a local electronics store. It didn't appear to have any missing items. The price out the door would be $1227. Is this a deal too good to pass up?
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post #342 of 965 Old 05-23-2005, 10:14 AM
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If it's a BB, heelzfan, there are 15% off coupons available. After using that its a no-braner. Let me know if you need a link.

"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic"-Arthur C. Clarke
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post #343 of 965 Old 05-23-2005, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeelPhan View Post

I saw an Open Box 34XS955 at a local electronics store. It didn't appear to have any missing items. The price out the door would be $1227. Is this a deal too good to pass up?

The only way you get a better deal is with a ski mask and a shotgun! MOVE!

Just make sure you have 100 percent coverage on open boxed items.

Great ISF Job by Chad B.
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post #344 of 965 Old 05-25-2005, 06:19 PM
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I bought one of these and it is shipping tomorrow. it was an open box from best buy, and with the 15% coupon it came to about $1200, everything looked fine in the store. They also had the older model 36" sony for $1,600, but the kd36xs955 was only $1350, didn't make much sense to me.
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post #345 of 965 Old 05-26-2005, 03:59 PM
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Does anyone know what the native resolution of this TV is? I downloaded the manual from Sony but it doesn't specify this information.

TIA!
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post #346 of 965 Old 05-26-2005, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redyolk View Post

Does anyone know what the native resolution of this TV is? I downloaded the manual from Sony but it doesn't specify this information.

I had to measure it so I could create test patterns. There is an exact number vertically, but, since this set has an inherently analog CRT display, the horizontal may be anything, like a hi-res computer CRT monitor.

For square pixels via memory stick, it is 1080h X 1440w interlaced ("Full" scan mode). Anything else is resampled vertically (and done well, I might add). For HD vertical, it would be 1080. 720 is resampled.

For DVD, it is 480 X 720, and the pixels are non-square. Again, I can't say personally that the set has a *native* horizontal resolution, but the DRC processing is likely all-digital, and I would place my bet on 720. I can't speak to 1080i through HDMI or V5/V6 (component).

Bottom line: If a jpg image of 1080 X 1440 is displayed from memory stick, it is shown very accurately, pixel-for-pixel.

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post #347 of 965 Old 05-27-2005, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenTech View Post

I had to measure it so I could create test patterns. There is an exact number vertically, but, since this set has an inherently analog CRT display, the horizontal may be anything, like a hi-res computer CRT monitor.

For square pixels via memory stick, it is 1080h X 1440w interlaced ("Full" scan mode). Anything else is resampled vertically (and done well, I might add). For HD vertical, it would be 1080. 720 is resampled.

For DVD, it is 480 X 720, and the pixels are non-square. Again, I can't say personally that the set has a *native* horizontal resolution, but the DRC processing is likely all-digital, and I would place my bet on 720. I can't speak to 1080i through HDMI or V5/V6 (component).

Bottom line: If a jpg image of 1080 X 1440 is displayed from memory stick, it is shown very accurately, pixel-for-pixel.

KenTech,

Thanks for the thorough explaination. The reason I asked about the native resolution is that I am trying to determine whether to go with a upscaling DVD player for the TV or just a plain [high quality] progressive unit.

I have tried 480p on this TV (with DRC set to "Progressive") and the pq is wonderful. However, given that it has a HDMI input, I am curious about 720p/1080i as well. I recall from another thread that pq, especially with HD, greatly depends on the native resolution of the display and the source.

Just to make it even more confusing...since the Sony is 4:3, it's not doing "true" HD (which is 16:9 only, I assume) even if it's set to do 720p/1080i, right?

TIA for all your help!
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post #348 of 965 Old 05-27-2005, 10:18 PM
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The set will do "true" HD in wide screen mode - you'll see black bars on top and bottom with the net effect being 33" diag. 16:9 picture. As far as I can tell, vertical resolution in that mode is still 1080i.
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post #349 of 965 Old 05-27-2005, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redyolk View Post

Just to make it even more confusing...since the Sony is 4:3, it's not doing "true" HD (which is 16:9 only, I assume) even if it's set to do 720p/1080i, right?

Wohlstad has it right. When the TV detects an HD signal, it compresses the full 1080 lines (interlaced) to the proper height for 16:9, and that ratio can be tweaked in service mode if it's not quite right. No scan lines in those black bars top and bottom.

Same with anamorphic DVDs sent to the TV in 480i. Player send out an "anamorphic" tag, and the TV compresses all 960 lines (upsampled from 480) to a correct 16:9 ratio. No scan lines wasted on letterboxing. Beautiful DVD display!

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post #350 of 965 Old 05-28-2005, 11:20 AM
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When I was considering the 36xs over its 34" wide-screen cousins, I had a hard time believing its vertical resolution in wide-screen mode was same. It just didn't make economic sence for Sony to have the tube which did pretty much everything as the other two in wide mode, yet have this large 4:3 screen and cost substantially less. But apparently its true.

Thus either Sony has large margins on its 34" XS and XBR, or it is prepared to lose $ on the 36". Either way, the 36xs represents an exceptional value - and will probably not see it for much longer.
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post #351 of 965 Old 05-28-2005, 08:58 PM
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Hello all! Short time reader, first time poster.

I bought my KD-36XS955 from Best Buy the Saturday before the Super Bowl along with a Bush VS47366 stand. The Sony stand didn't cut the mustard with the loving Mrs. C.

I didn't go with the 34XS because most of our viewing is 4x3. Although the 34XS is almost an inch wider, the 36XS is 5 inches taller. With virtually the same HD/DVD picture size, a much larger 4x3 image and space limitations, the 36XS gives me more bang for the buck.

I initially used AVIA to calibrate and then picked up DVE after I borrowed one from a friend of mine. I had trouble with the HD picture being dark. I changed the black level from my DVD player to enhanced and recalibrated. That took care of that.

With good source material the picture is awesome. Unfortunately, not all source material is created equal.

I'm running a Toshiba SD-2109 DVD player and a Denon AVR-3300. My settings on my 36XS are:

Mode: Movie
Picture: 19
Brightness: 45
Color: 33
Hue: 0
Sharpness: 23
Color temp: neutral
VM: off

I about fell out of my chair when I noticed after I got home that the top wasn't flat. So the following week I had a custom stand made to fit on top of the set for the center channel speaker. Now I'm contemplating on upgrading my DVD player. Now if I can figure out how to get that past the loving Mrs. C.
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post #352 of 965 Old 05-29-2005, 03:15 PM
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Hey Tom,
How does the stand fit the 36xs955? Match up well color-wise? Is it stable with all that front-loaded weight? I saw this stand today and it looks a little beefier compared to others. I cant take a chance with a 270 pound TV.

"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic"-Arthur C. Clarke
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post #353 of 965 Old 05-30-2005, 08:44 AM
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It doesn't look bad. It's not as snug around the edges as I'd like, but that the way it goes with a one size fits all stand. The colors are close enough where no one has said anything.

I'm concerned about the front weight too. One of these days I need to put a strap form the back of the TV to the stand, just to be safe.

The batteries in the digital camera are dead. Later when I get back from the store with some new ones, I'll snap a pic or two and post them.
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post #354 of 965 Old 05-30-2005, 11:07 AM
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shugazer9,

Here are some pics of my 36XS and the Bush stand.

Tom C
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post #355 of 965 Old 05-30-2005, 07:12 PM
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Thanks for the pix, Tom. The TV looks like it is well-supported. Iv bought a lot of Bush AV furniture and like the quality. I may have to paint those silver feet, though!

"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic"-Arthur C. Clarke
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post #356 of 965 Old 05-31-2005, 09:52 AM
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If anyone is interested, here are a couple of pics of the stand that I had made for my center channel speaker. It's satin black anodized aluminum. I think it's about .063" thick (I've misplaced the reciept). I glued a material on the bottom that feels a bit like rubber. I got it at the local fabric store. That is to keep it from slidding around and from possibly scratching the TV. I have rubber feet on the bottom of the speaker. Small ones in front and larger ones in back to angle it down toward the listener.

One of these days I may get some gray paint to help the front portion of it to blend in better with the TV color.
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post #357 of 965 Old 05-31-2005, 07:54 PM
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i notice that when i pick up a 720p signal the picture becomes really small, is this suppose to happen? should I just use the picture button on the remote to blow it up?
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post #358 of 965 Old 05-31-2005, 11:01 PM
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Well, I just clicked on this TV. (Clicked meaning bought) While I have no doubt that HD and DVDs will look great, I am hoping that 4:3 material, like TCM and music videos will look OK. I am upgrading a 32" Toshiba IDTV that I have had for 13 years. Tom- have you noticed any picture discoloration from your center channel speaker? I have a big 34" wide Polk center channel speaker that i hope will fit in the Bush stand. If not, CC sells a center channel speaker stand that looks pretty sturdy. I decided to get a first-class CRT because I was dissatisfied with the black levels of my HS10 LCD FP. I'll get back into FP in a couple of upgrade cycles, but in the meantime this set will have to do.

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post #359 of 965 Old 05-31-2005, 11:15 PM
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I know we aren't supposed to talk about street pricing. But it looks like MSRP might have been dropped about $400? Anyone else see this?
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post #360 of 965 Old 05-31-2005, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom C View Post

I didn't go with the 34XS because most of our viewing is 4x3. Although the 34XS is almost an inch wider, the 36XS is 5 inches taller. With virtually the same HD/DVD picture size, a much larger 4x3 image and space limitations, the 36XS gives me more bang for the buck.
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No, it doesn't... While it does a decent job of showing 4:3, it trys to cram 2 million pixels into the middle 3/4 of the screen of a 330,000 pixel oriented display... it show Widescreen HDTV as low def shortscreen. Since HDTV has 3-6 times the pixels of SDTV, it needs a larger area for display. 4:3 displays semi-compatible with HDTV are NOT the answer... they aren't compatible with EITHER standard.
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