THE SONY SERVICE CODES - Articles, Comments, Discoveries - Page 34 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 2Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #991 of 2973 Old 02-13-2006, 09:57 PM
AVS Special Member
 
SurfingMatt27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 2,789
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenTech View Post

Yes. This is an easy one.

These settings do not adjust the individual colors. Thay set up a complex decoding martix for extracting color, and it really can't be eyeballed. For any one input, there really is only one correct setting. If you use the DVE or AVIA DVDs for setting up your DVD player's input, you have done it right. Period. If you still aren't happy with the greens, you can't blame the player/TV combination!

The good news is that most inputs share the same color-matrix settings just fine, and using DVE to set these parameters will also set it for all other similar inputs. If you wish to go through the process on your own set (DVE works well), I recommend you use 2170P-2/RGBS to turn on only the individual color guns instead of using the color filters.

More good news: Many folks have reported roughtly the same settings after they go through this process. For me it was 14-14-5-3 for RYR thru GYB, respectively. There is a little sloppiness in the proces, and at other times I have set it to 13-15-5-3, and so have others. Not a big deal, since you have gotten away from the huge red push that comes from the factory. I assigned these settings to the "Standard (Normal?)" choice in the user menus.

Viewing those color bars with the green-only gun really explicitly identifies green push; so it does with red, too. Get that right, and your TV is now okay. Or you can just punch in the above numbers (14-14-5-3), and you will be *very* close. For you, the 5-3 pair is all-inportant.

You might be seeing a green push in the original video material for some reason. Food commercials use a red or red-orange "push" all the time. The demo videos on DVE are fairly neutral, and you might start there to see what you've accomplished.

Update on my settings:

Ken what a coincidence!! i ended up with similar results: RYR-14, RYB-14, GYR-6, GYB-4.

But i learned something Ken, that even though at my first go around i got RYR-11,RYB-14, GYR-4, GYB-3 for progressive scan it was ok, then as soon as i went to interlaced mode and watched tv cable the color was off. Seems theres a difference in interlaced and progressive mode huh?

So i recalibrated and did it it interlaced mode instead and now all is swell and it's a good compromise of interlaced and progressive using RYR-14, RYB-14, GYR-6, GYB-4.

Thanks for your help! It seems we all have pretty much the same exact settings which lead me to beleive that is the sweet spot for these settings
SurfingMatt27 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #992 of 2973 Old 02-13-2006, 10:05 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
KenTech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 714
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by SurfingMatt27 View Post

So i recalibrated and did it it interlaced mode instead and now all is swell and it's a good compromise of interlaced and progressive using RYR-14, RYB-14, GYR-6, GYB-4.

Thanks for your help! It seems we all have pretty much the same exact settings which lead me to beleive that is the sweet spot for these settings

Funny thing! I recently recalibrated with AVIA and DVE and having learned a trick or two from the built-in test patterns. My settings are now -- guess what? -- 14-14-6-4! I have also locked in the most perfect grayscale I have ever had, and the Olympics are looking outstanding!

Now, about that oversharpened ski-racing video . . . but the announcer segments with their nice graphics are very fine. (I have to refrain from tinkering with VM and other parameters when Other Half is viewing with me.)

KenTech
"We all get smart slowly."
KenTech is offline  
post #993 of 2973 Old 02-13-2006, 11:09 PM
AVS Special Member
 
SurfingMatt27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 2,789
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 12
it's funny is'nt it!!

It seems those settings of RYR-GYB 14-14-6-4 seem to be perfect for everything HD resolutions and 480i/p took me a while but i'm glad we both found the sweet spot!!

As for the olympics yeah it's very impressive so far!! A tip on VM in the service menu with VM-VML turn these all to 0 and the PQ will look much sharper with them off. A good example of what to look at is the channel ticker in the corner of the screen when you flip through certain channels you see the channel logo. Well concentrate on that and tell me how razor sharp it looks with VM-VML at 0.

I noticed it a while back, what a remarkable improvement in clarity, give it a try!

Matt~
SurfingMatt27 is offline  
post #994 of 2973 Old 02-13-2006, 11:21 PM
Senior Member
 
Myke256's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 260
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Just 2 quick questions. First, is there an overscan pattern I can download? It's kind of a pain to scroll through 34 pages. I'd need 2 of them. 1 for 640x480 and 1920x1080. And second, I was told if you set Y-DC to 0 it would improve black levels. Is there any truth to this. I don't have the set yet so I can't check myself. This is for the HS models. Thanks in advance.
Myke256 is offline  
post #995 of 2973 Old 02-13-2006, 11:25 PM
AVS Special Member
 
SurfingMatt27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 2,789
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Y-DC should already be at 0 from the factory you should'nt have to change it.

As for overscan patterns DVE has them not too familiar with AVIA since i only own DVE i'm used to that calibration disc so can't help you there.
SurfingMatt27 is offline  
post #996 of 2973 Old 02-13-2006, 11:30 PM
Senior Member
 
Myke256's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 260
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I don't have a DVD player that upscales to 1080i so I wouldn't be able to adjust that res with my DVE. I stream pictures from my PC to my TV through my Xbox 360. I was hoping I could find overscan patterns to download to my PC. And would those 14-14-6-4 values be worth changing. Everytime I go into my service menu I get nervous even though nothing has happened yet.
Myke256 is offline  
post #997 of 2973 Old 02-14-2006, 12:40 AM
AVS Special Member
 
SurfingMatt27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 2,789
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Yes those values for the color matrix system are deffinately worth changing especially since these sony sets are known to give a huge amount of red push out of the box.
SurfingMatt27 is offline  
post #998 of 2973 Old 02-14-2006, 01:10 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
KenTech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 714
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by SurfingMatt27 View Post

Well concentrate on that and tell me how razor sharp it looks with VM-VML at 0.

Been there! But properly configured, a small amount of VM is always an improvement for me, even on HD, and the right amount is much less than for SD. I have now reconfigured the three VM parameters, VMH, VMM, and VML to 6-4-2, since I can not imagine using a setting higher than 6. Now I find that Low is the right setting for 1080i HD when it's broadcast quality is high (such as the Olympics host sequences). For regular analog cable SD, I prefer Medium or High. (Compare with factory-original Pro settings of 12-8-4.)

Finest textures are *not affected* by VM. Adequate currents at those video frequencies likely cannot be developed in the auxiliary magnetic coils that make uip the physical VM apparatus.

KenTech
"We all get smart slowly."
KenTech is offline  
post #999 of 2973 Old 02-14-2006, 08:43 AM
Member
 
loadams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant,SC
Posts: 158
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenTech View Post

(I have to refrain from tinkering with VM and other parameters when Other Half is viewing with me.)

AH HAH !!! My wife was beginning to think I was OCD (sorry, no offense to anyone, we are all a little ocd at times), so I took a day a while back to configure one imput for all of my devices, now we watch as a happy couple again.

Update here Ken. I decided to dump 480p and tweak 480i thru component, pic is outstanding to say the least. Cinemotion plus the mide tweaks produces a wonderful, sharp, full of depth pic that I think I was missing using 480p. This gives me the leyway to tweak 1080i now with my older 2151 chip, and that is now much more pleasurable to watch. Cheers !
loadams is offline  
post #1000 of 2973 Old 02-14-2006, 01:30 PM
Member
 
ragingd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 144
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I been reading every bodies post and everything seems fine with my tv. I have the 34xbr910, but i have one problem it seems like i have a bluish tint. Can anybody give me any advice on what could be wrong? Thanks for any help
ragingd is offline  
post #1001 of 2973 Old 02-14-2006, 04:45 PM
Newbie
 
shayward's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi, Napoleon D. I'm new to the group, but I found your post personally affirming. Having just bought a SONY 420 (30" HD Direct View TV), I had the honour of having Michael Chen in Calgary calibrate it for me. He turned off all the VM settings in 2140P-3, and the SYSM settings for 108I were left at 3 (no effect, it seems, as I could not get the picture to sharpen by using the slider).

No doubt this gave me the most natural edges to the picture, but I found that faces were very difficult to look at - too smooth! I began to doubt the focus of the tube. He was kind enough to instruct me on how to reenable the VM values, which gave me back a sharpness I had come to expect from HD, but as you pointed out there a certain "blockiness" appeared in large areas of flesh tones. Using the VM on "low" or "medium" gives me a comfortable image, but I would like to have the best of both worlds.

I'll try using the SYSM settings to see if I can get a razor sharp image with no blocking on VM low. Thanks for the suggestion!

/Stephen Hayward
Calgary (new member).

By the way, I heartily recommend Michael Chen for anyone in the Calgary area (he also does junkets to other cities). Very personable, very competent, and quite dedicated to establishing a pure image.
shayward is offline  
post #1002 of 2973 Old 02-14-2006, 09:12 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
KenTech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 714
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by loadams View Post

Update here Ken. I decided to dump 480p and tweak 480i thru component, pic is outstanding to say the least. Cinemotion plus the mide tweaks produces a wonderful, sharp, full of depth pic that I think I was missing using 480p.

Your feedback, my experience, and what others have said lead me to believe that dealing with 480p thru component inputs is NOT this TV's strong suit! Who knows why? 480p thru HDMI is much better, though with a few more artifacts than 480i thru component and therefore with a slightly less attractive "look." It is very hard to separate the performance of the DVD player from that of the TV in their ability to perform the nasty processing required to deinterlace and resample 480-anything.

I'm happy to hear you have improved results!

KenTech
"We all get smart slowly."
KenTech is offline  
post #1003 of 2973 Old 02-15-2006, 02:50 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
KenTech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 714
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Recommendations for small Warm and Cool color offsets

I don't often use these settings, as I have tuned Neutral as perfectly as I could wish for evening viewing with suitable backlighting. But recent watching of the Olympics in the afternoon, with sunlight coming thru windows at the other end of the living room, has prompted me to choose Warm for viewing. It seems more neutral for that situation. But it seemed too red, still. On further examination, Cool wasn't right, either.

In a recent posting of my color-calibration settings, I listed Warm and Cool as being offsets of +1R and -1B and the reverse of -1R and +1B. I don't think these are correct. A problem is that I want a *small* warm or cool offset, and the steps offered in service mode are fairly coarse. Maybe the ratio should be 3 parts yellow + 2 parts red, but that would result in more change than I want.

I experimented, and I now think that one can come very close with a 2:1 ratio of yellow to red. Here are my current recommendations:

RDOF-GDOF-BDOF = (Warm) 32-31-29 or (Cool) 30-31-33.
CROF-GCOF-BCOF = [exactly the same as above]
Leave SBOF at 7.

In SM, you have to set the user-menu color-temp to Cool or Warm to change each settings group, then WRITE.

The object is to shift the *color temperature,* not the color, and that requires specific warm offsets of red plus yellow (minus-blue), sort of a salmon color for Warm, slightly greenish-blue for Cool. The question is, what are suitable ratios? For larger shifts, further experimentation might refine the choice, but the above is the smallest correction I can find that really looks good. Sony's bizarre WBSW offsets in SM and the use of blue-only for a cool correction are dead-wrong, IMHO!

For those who care, and your mileage *will* vary, my color drive and cutoff settings are:

2170P-1, #7-13, SBRT~BCUT = 29 - 42-28-23 - 43-24-22.

KenTech
"We all get smart slowly."
KenTech is offline  
post #1004 of 2973 Old 02-15-2006, 04:31 PM
Member
 
loadams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant,SC
Posts: 158
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Ken, you are applying WBSW-0 (warm) and DCOL-0 (cool) to reflect these numbers for the offsets, for those just joining us?
loadams is offline  
post #1005 of 2973 Old 02-15-2006, 05:14 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
KenTech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 714
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by loadams View Post

Ken, [are] you are applying WBSW-0 (warm) and DCOL-0 (cool) to reflect these numbers for the offsets, for those just joining us?

No. My understanding of those two items is this:

WBSW is a one-time injection of Sony's "warm" offsets into the Warm color-offset column. I leave it at zero since I have no use for those offset values, having created my own. (Sony's original settings for Neutral are hideously bluish, 9000K+ or something like that. There used to be a *big* jump to Warm. Now, Neutral is very close to 6500K or slightly above, and I want Warm to be only an incremental change warmer; same with Cool.

Based on reading some documents, I think DCOL stands for "Dynamic COLor," and I have no knowledge of how it works, so I leave it set to 0, which I have surmised is Off. I don't want *any* dynamic effects going on in my set, except the beam-current limiter that limits the maximum-average brightness and protects the CRT and power supply.

To make sure there are no misconceptions: The Warm and Cool offsets of RDOF~BCOF are not absolute settings but *difference* settings based on the values of RDRV~BCUT. 31 = no difference, 32 = +1, 33 = +2, 30 = -1, 29 = -2, etc. (I'm sorry if I'm repeating myself, here; many non-engioneering or math types really don't "get" the concept of offset.)

Since their values are so easy to reconstruct, one can conveniently hijack either Warm or Cool to test out new color settings without messing up the basic ones you've already set. That way, you can live with it for a while to see if it's right.

Example: You're suspecting your Neutral white that you've worked to get right is a little on the red side. So: Set up, say, Cool for 31-31-31 - 31-31-31 (no effect at all), then lower the red offsets by one: 30-31-31 - 30-31-31. Or maybe two. If you are fiddling with your grayscale, those two triplets will look different. WRITE those settings, and go back to watching your set. Now you can switch to Cool to get that small minus-red tweak. If it's what you want, incorporste it into the "real" color settings of RDRV-BCUT, and restore Cool to the former pre-experiment settings.

KenTech
"We all get smart slowly."
KenTech is offline  
post #1006 of 2973 Old 02-16-2006, 08:24 AM
Member
 
loadams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant,SC
Posts: 158
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Sorry for my wording, should have asked if you have disabled WBSW and DCOL to reach those values.

Absolultely, it's the approach I take on this. I figure the offsets to 31 as a "middle of the slider" approach, ticking one way or the other in increments. However, I have found DCOL only to work with "cool". Put up a 80-100 ire screen and progressively step up DCOL to 3. You'll notice the screen progressively turning blue, can't figure out why that would even be attractive. But then, heck, I truly don't what it does either.

For now, neutral seems right on, with warm just a tick higher in red and 2 ticks lower in blue (from the value of 31) I want it warm, but not Mars in the summer. For experimentation purposes, I lowered my warm drv offsets to 26-25-23 for nighttime viewing, seems to help the poor eyes. Cool has been hijacked for b/w movies with DCOL set to 0, perhaps a little too sepia for normal viewing, but I certainly like the effect.
loadams is offline  
post #1007 of 2973 Old 02-16-2006, 11:50 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
KenTech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 714
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by loadams View Post

For now, neutral seems right on, with warm just a tick higher in red and 2 ticks lower in blue (from the value of 31) I want it warm, but not Mars in the summer. For experimentation purposes, I lowered my warm drv offsets to 26-25-23 for nighttime viewing, seems to help the poor eyes. Cool has been hijacked for b/w movies with DCOL set to 0, perhaps a little too sepia for normal viewing, but I certainly like the effect.

You've got it! You can take complete "ownership" of the Warm and Cool offset-settings and make them work for you. And they're easy to change without screwing up your hard-won Neutral settings. (Of course, doing that with the Picture modes, too, has been promoted here for a while.)

KenTech
"We all get smart slowly."
KenTech is offline  
post #1008 of 2973 Old 02-16-2006, 03:35 PM
Member
 
jeri534's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 145
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Anyone know what values to fix overscan for my 30XS955? Thats all I want to fix right now and Im gonna save up for an ISF calibration
jeri534 is offline  
post #1009 of 2973 Old 02-16-2006, 03:56 PM
AVS Special Member
 
justsc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 2,689
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeri534 View Post

Anyone know what values to fix overscan for my 30XS955? Thats all I want to fix right now and Im gonna save up for an ISF calibration

I'd be surprised if anyone could do that...

Unless I'm mistaken, working overscan requires a test pattern from say Avia or DVE while working in the SM. Since each set is unique, this is one area I bet can't work by just sharing values.

Am I wrong?
justsc is offline  
post #1010 of 2973 Old 02-16-2006, 04:01 PM
Member
 
jeri534's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 145
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Sorry, I meant values as what codes to look for in the SM, but I found them already, thanks.
jeri534 is offline  
post #1011 of 2973 Old 02-16-2006, 04:06 PM
AVS Special Member
 
justsc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 2,689
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeri534 View Post

Sorry, I meant values as what codes to look for in the SM, but I found them already, thanks.

My mistake - I completely misread your post.

Glad you found what you were looking for.
justsc is offline  
post #1012 of 2973 Old 02-17-2006, 12:20 AM
Member
 
jeri534's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 145
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Can anyone help why I do not have the (VDHP horizontal position), 1 (VDHS horizontal size), 2 (VDVE vertical position) and 3 (VDVS vertical size) in MID3 of my service menu? I just got my 30XS955 yesterday and would like to fix the overscan but those values are not there in MID3



Also, is it fine to fix overscan with a DVD running at 480p? Reason I ask is because I have a Xbox 360 which Ill use the DVD in, so when its playing itll be running at 480p right? So when I go back to 1080i after I fix the overscan it will stay corrected when I change to 1080i?
jeri534 is offline  
post #1013 of 2973 Old 02-17-2006, 02:39 AM
Member
 
jeri534's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 145
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
How good did you guys get your geometry? I got about less than 2.5% on all sides except the bottom..heres a picture...

Also, to adjust the top layer for those who do not have those 4 options in MID3, it is in MID4 as DHHP, DHHS, DHVP, DHVS
jeri534 is offline  
post #1014 of 2973 Old 02-17-2006, 02:42 AM
Member
 
jeri534's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 145
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
how is this?





Also, why is it that in 1080i, my overscan is fine, but in 480p, I have like 5% overscan on the right side?
jeri534 is offline  
post #1015 of 2973 Old 02-17-2006, 03:00 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
DSperber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Marina Del Rey, CA, USA
Posts: 5,455
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 80 Post(s)
Liked: 119
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeri534 View Post

Also, to adjust the top layer for those who do not have those 4 options in MID3, it is in MID4 as DHHP, DHHS, DHVP, DHVS

Interesting, because the 30XS955 is shown as "part of the family" on the cover of the service manual that includes 34XBR960 among others.

My chart from the service manual doesn't even show MID4, nor has any PDF or XLS sheet I've seen posted here. Fascinating. My XBR960 goes from MID3 right to MID5. No MID4.

Anyway, if for some reason they're in MID4 on your set and labeled with a D instead of a V, ok... we've learned something.

The important thing is that you found the controls that appear to be relevant on your set. I would say, from your picture, that you still haven't gotten it right at the bottom edge as you yourself have observed. No question in my mind the other three edges look superb, at around 1-1.25% overscan. Excellent. But that bottom edge is clearly not correct.

For purposes of testing, if you slide the image and/or raster up (so that the top edge goes offscreen), can you see any portion of what's below the bottom 2.5% overscan gradient mark? Can you see the corner arrow points? You should determine whether it's vertical size of the image or vertical size of the raster that's the problem.

In other words, if sliding the picture up reveals the missing bottom portion as currently adjusted so that you know it's there but still below the bottom edge of the screen, then you still haven't zeroed in on the right settings. But whichever service menu item regarding vertical size made that currently missing bottom data suddenly appear, that's the one that still needs delicate balancing with respect to the other vertical size/position controls.

But three of your four edges look fabulous.

One comment... is the left edge non-vertical? Looks to me like it is rotated slightly counter-clockwise (i.e. pointing slightly to the northwest) so that the upper-left and lower-left corners are not right angles. Also the vertical lines on the left side of the screen look slightly curved, bowing a bit to the right as you approach the top edge of the screen.

In contrast, the right side vertical lines, right edge, and right-upper and right-lower corners look much better.
DSperber is offline  
post #1016 of 2973 Old 02-17-2006, 03:16 AM
Member
 
jeri534's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 145
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
oops, big mistake, I meant MID2, not MID4


I have not dealt with any bowing and tilt issues, just overscan...


I tried getting the bottom of the picture to show up, but like the lower 1-3% is really messed up and is skewed to the left a lot.
jeri534 is offline  
post #1017 of 2973 Old 02-17-2006, 03:39 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
DSperber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Marina Del Rey, CA, USA
Posts: 5,455
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 80 Post(s)
Liked: 119
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeri534 View Post

oops, big mistake, I meant MID2, not MID4

MID2 is for adjusting image size/placement for 480i sources. MID3 is for 480p/720p/1080i sources.

I'm really not familiar at all with the 30XS955 (though it purports to be in the same service menu firmware family), so I don't know why MID3 would not be present in your service menu.

Unless... are you trying to adjust while sourced from S-video or composite video input (i.s. INPUT1-INPUT3 on the XBR960)? 480i source for your test pattern? Or are you using one of your 480p/720p/1080i inputs (INPUT4-INPUT7 on the XBR960) for doing the adjustments?

If you're using 480i, maybe that's why MID2 is showing up and not MID3. If so, use one of your component video inputs and see if you get MID3 presented.
DSperber is offline  
post #1018 of 2973 Old 02-17-2006, 10:34 AM
Member
 
jeri534's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 145
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
No I am using 1080i and MID2 worked for adjusting the top layer
jeri534 is offline  
post #1019 of 2973 Old 02-17-2006, 10:42 AM
Member
 
jeri534's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 145
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Btw, does anyone know why there is a big difference in overscan, its almost perfect in 1080i, but when I go to 480p on my xbox360 there is quite a bit of overscan on the right side.
jeri534 is offline  
post #1020 of 2973 Old 02-17-2006, 10:49 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
DSperber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Marina Del Rey, CA, USA
Posts: 5,455
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 80 Post(s)
Liked: 119
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeri534 View Post

No I am using 1080i and MID2 worked for adjusting the top layer

Very strange. All documentation suggests MID2 is for 480i, not 1080i. Furthermore you should have MID3 in your service menu, which you don't.

I'm at a loss to explain since I only have experience with the XBR960.

But however you've gotten it done, it seems odd that you can get everything adjusted for three out of four edges but not the fourth. Very strange.

What happens... do you just tweak the presumably relevant service menu item to its maximum/minimum and still can't pull the bottom edge of the image up to where you'd like it? It just won't go up any further?
DSperber is offline  
Reply Direct View (single tube) CRT Displays

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off