THE SONY SERVICE CODES - Articles, Comments, Discoveries - Page 38 - AVS Forum
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post #1111 of 2962 Old 03-06-2006, 11:29 AM
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I have been having a recent dilemna related a little to what has been talked about here. I got an ISF calibration over a month ago. I changed very few settings for my own benefit - I changed SYSM from 3 to 2 (which meant i could remove the MIDE-17 setting that was complimenting it), and I adjusted a color saturation a couple of ticks. These were very minor changes, but helped in a major way. As i've said before, I have problems viewing an image set on SYSM-3, as i feel the image comes out too soft overall as it lacks sharpness peaks, and hence is difficult to focus on. The only way to make SYSM3 aggreeable is to add edge/sharp enhancement, which results in an image that's much too noisy. SYSM-2 seems to give you the appropriate sharpness boost with out needing the extra stuff to slap on the image.

Anyway, after the couple tweaks i came out with an image very agreeable to the eyes..

Without having changed anything since, i decided it was the right time to hit "flash focus" in the user menu. Well, the results definitely looked different. The covergence indeed looked MUCH tighter, as the image looked much cleaner/smoother as well. The problem, the image now comes across as too soft for the eyes. It is as if my eyes now want to look past the screen as if i was far-sighted (I am not). In other words, the image is so soft my eyes don't want to focus on the image now. Others in the room commented unbiasedly about this as well.

Again, it looks as if the calibrator saved "flash focus" to his convergence settings. I can say the image does look great. But image greatness is 2 things, looking good, and being agreeable to your eyes.

I'm not sure what's happening. Do i merely have to wait for convergence to drift a little now, as silly as that sounds? I need an image that comes to the surface and meets your eyes (but not too much sharpness). I felt that i had that, and ruined it by using a feature (automatic convergence) which I am supposed to be using.

As of now I have SYSM set on 2, without any MIDE, LV or VM adjustment activated - just pureness all around. I honestly feel that any more sharpness addition degrade the image. All of my user settings are leveled out (including sharpness) and they should stay there. Sliding sharpness up or down does very little at this point.

As I like to say, it is like seeing an attractive girl out who is wearing too much makeup. It might make her look better from afar, but the closer you look, the more coarse, flakey and scary her face looks. Now grab a towel and wipe up about half of that stuff off, she looks normal now, as she's just accentuating her beauty without overdoing it to the point of looking fake...... you get the point.

But my real point is i had every edge-enhancement stripped off with my SYSM at 2, and thought i had a great image, with still plenty of sharpness left over. Now that the colors are perfectly converged, i have tighter imges, but a less sharp image that we need to strain to focus on. It wasn't like this prior to flash focus.

Can someone explain what i'm seeing, or better yet, how i might be able to fix this?

Thanks!

P.S. Ken did you ever figure out that SYSM-3 alternative to SYSM2?

Update: I checked convergence on the Avia, and it is good. The "flash focus" apparently was set on an unbeleivably tight convergance setting. I think now that the colors are converged - the image appears softer only because the choppy outlining created by drifting convergence has been removed. It is so well-converged it is just taking my eyes a while getting used to the image.
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post #1112 of 2962 Old 03-07-2006, 05:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luw123 View Post

Hello there

I have successfully entered service mode and made some adjustments. But it seems I just can't write it into the memory. After I hit mute button, "service" changed to "write" , then I hit enter button very quickly but nothing happens..

Try MUTE Zero
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post #1113 of 2962 Old 03-07-2006, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Napoleon D View Post

But my real point is i had every edge-enhancement stripped off with my SYSM at 2, and thought i had a great image, with still plenty of sharpness left over. Now that the colors are perfectly converged, i have tighter imges, but a less sharp image that we need to strain to focus on. It wasn't like this prior to flash focus.

Can someone explain what i'm seeing, or better yet, how i might be able to fix this?

Try increasing sharpness to see if it improves. Some models actually soften the image when sharpness is reduced too much. You can use the Avia sharpness test pattern and set sharpness to the point the white edges (too much sharpness) to the right of the black lines just disappears.

Glen Carter
Home Theater Calibration

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post #1114 of 2962 Old 03-07-2006, 02:14 PM
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Glen - thanks for response.

Sharpness is leveled out in the user menu. I have it to the point where lowering it and raising it does very little. I think the image is sharp enough, however the image is so tightly/well converged that it is taking my eyes a while to adjust to it. Prior to the converegce (flash focus) there was no eyestrain, although the image wasn't quite as tight - go figure. But I do know the calibrator saved "flash focus" to his convergence settings, so what i'm seeing is an improvement. It just is such a clear and tight image that again, it takes a while to adjust to.
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post #1115 of 2962 Old 03-07-2006, 09:18 PM
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Thanks for the responses guys. I'm still trying to get the picture setting to my liking. Another question, does adjusting the SPIC in the service menu help?
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post #1116 of 2962 Old 03-08-2006, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synyster View Post

Just got my 960 a few weeks ago, lovely set. I popped in my avia dvd and did a crosshatch test. I have pictures below......my question is, is there anything in the service menu that can fix these issues...or will i have to call a tech?

This is the crosshatch test in widescreen mode..notice the lower left, upper right:
PIC

The same test in full mode:
PIC

Line bowing in the upper left:
PIC

Just a side note....the actual picture on my tv is great. The only issue i ever see is when there is a logo or bar at the bottom and it bends slightly in the lower left. Most normal people wont notice it....but after lurking in these forums for months i was "trained" to look for issues like this. Thanks for any help.

i have this too. i see someone responded to your post saying only a tech can fix it by opening the tv and messing with magnets.

so anyone out there, there's really no way for me to do this by meself? no guide out there? i'm willing to take the chance of me electrocuting myself. i've opened electronics before to mod things.
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post #1117 of 2962 Old 03-08-2006, 07:42 AM
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vazel, synyster's pics show what I think is tilting on the 1st and 2nd pic, and a overscan problem maybe on the 3rd pic. Tilt is easily adjustable, vertical lines bowing is also adjustable in the SM, also on the 1st and 2nd pics, what looks like "barrel distortion" on the horizontal (horizontal bowing) is not as easy to correct. The 3rd pic looks like the box is cut off on the top and left side. I don't know too much about the 960 but on my 955, I would see a complete box with all 4 edges. Maybe a overscan issue?
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post #1118 of 2962 Old 03-08-2006, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mapson View Post

vazel, synyster's pics show what I think is tilting on the 1st and 2nd pic, and a overscan problem maybe on the 3rd pic. Tilt is easily adjustable, vertical lines bowing is also adjustable in the SM, also on the 1st and 2nd pics, what looks like "barrel distortion" on the horizontal (horizontal bowing) is not as easy to correct. The 3rd pic looks like the box is cut off on the top and left side. I don't know too much about the 960 but on my 955, I would see a complete box with all 4 edges. Maybe a overscan issue?

You know, I noticed some tilting issues when playing games and watching tv, so i made an adjustment to +2/+3....now everything is fine. I will rerun the tests and see what kind of results I get. As far as the 3rd pic, I not so sure if its overscan....I'm sure thats the way the box is supposed to look but then again I could be wrong. I was more concerned about the line bowing.
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post #1119 of 2962 Old 03-08-2006, 08:58 PM
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I have a rather old Sony 32" set, the KV-32S42, but the Service Codes are different than most I find listed anywhere on the internet and difficult to decipher what most of them do.

I know what several of them are and do, but not all.

For example, there's one called EYSW, which at first glance, I thought referred to "EYeShadoW", meaning that eyeshadow effect you get when the set needs convergence set, that green or magenta haze that develops around the eyes.

Of course, I seriously doubt Sony would have meant for EYSW to stand for "EYeShadoW" and am certain it has nothing to do with convergence.

But for that and others, a whole slew beginning with "C", another beginning with "P", none of these or others really match up much with any of the more generic Sony Service Code charts I've run across so far.

Does anyone out there by any chance have a breakdown of the Service Codes for the model KV-32S42 they could post to the board, if possible?

Thanks if anyone does BTW !!
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post #1120 of 2962 Old 03-10-2006, 10:00 AM
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I don't recall this being posted...

The 30, 34, 36 xs955 and the 34XBR960 series have a self diagnostic screen display. To bring up this screen, press...[DISPLAY] > Channel [5] > Sound volume [-] > Power [ON].

This will show serious fault counts. To exit menu, just power off.

ONLY reset to zero after repairs has been completed to determine faults AFTER the completion of repairs. Doing so will also reset all user functions including auto programming and picture settings.

Again, to EXIT menu, just power off, to clear the values, see the next sentence.

To clear the count values and reset to zero, press...Channel[8] > [ENTER].

Not sure if it works for other different models of Sonys.
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post #1121 of 2962 Old 03-10-2006, 10:33 AM
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Thanks for posting that mapson!

I have run across it once when making an "error" when entering SM -- I wasn't sure if I had accidently pressed :[2] instead of [5], or [-] instead of [+]/etc ... Now I know!

Jeff
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post #1122 of 2962 Old 03-10-2006, 11:00 AM
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I was wondering why no one else mention this in the thread but yesterday while fiddling around 2170D, MID3 or 2170P I was able to do geometry adjustment. I am going to look in to it this weekend. I have XBR960 and geometry is little off. It looks like the sketch below but not that extreme. I also need to get my overscan to around 2%.

/----------/
/----------/
/----------/

Is there any reason I shouldn't be setting these values?

Thanks
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post #1123 of 2962 Old 03-10-2006, 11:18 AM
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Your pic looks like 2170D-1, 15. VANG (AFC Angle) would help. There may be other settings but that's the one that I think can help.
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post #1124 of 2962 Old 03-10-2006, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mapson View Post

Your pic looks like 2170D-1, 15. VANG (AFC Angle) would help. There may be other settings but that's the one that I think can help.

thx
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post #1125 of 2962 Old 03-10-2006, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeepFreezed View Post

I was wondering why no one else mention this in the thread but yesterday while fiddling around 2170D, MID3 or 2170P I was able to do geometry adjustment. I am going to look in to it this weekend. I have XBR960 and geometry is little off. It looks like the sketch below but not that extreme. I also need to get my overscan to around 2%. Is there any reason I shouldn't be setting these values?

Adjusting overscan has been discussed many times in this and other threads, in this and even other forums. Yes, the 2170D-1, 2170D-2 and MID3 groups are relevant. That's where you will be to accomplish your tweak.

Please start here and download the OVERSCAN.ZIP test pattern (if you can present that JPG from your PC to your Sony at 1920x1080i). You're going to need something like this, or DVE/AVIA setup DVD's, in order to have a substantive method to accomplish what you want.
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post #1126 of 2962 Old 03-10-2006, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSperber View Post

Adjusting overscan has been discussed many times in this and other threads, in this and even other forums. Yes, the 2170D-1, 2170D-2 and MID3 groups are relevant. That's where you will be to accomplish your tweak.

Please start here and download the OVERSCAN.ZIP test pattern (if you can present that JPG from your PC to your Sony at 1920x1080i). You're going to need something like this, or DVE/AVIA setup DVD's, in order to have a substantive method to accomplish what you want.

Yes I went through your thread yesterday. Thx for the info.
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post #1127 of 2962 Old 03-11-2006, 03:48 AM
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can someone with a KV-30HS420 give me the default values for these settings? i changed them and stupidly enough i didn't write the default values.

VSZO
VLIN
VSCO
VCEN
VPIN
MPIN
PIN
UCP
LCP
PPHA
VANG
LANG
VBOW
LBOW
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post #1128 of 2962 Old 03-11-2006, 04:26 AM
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I am new to this but I know exactly what I need to fix except there's one problem. I don't know what menu the last thing I wanna fix is under.


Alright when I fix these:
2170D-1 0 VPOS
2170D-1 1 VSIZ
2170D-2 1 HPOS
2170D-2 2 HSIZ
MID3
0 VDHP
1 VDHS
2 VDVE
3 VDVS

There is one problem, my image doesn't fully fill up the top part of the canvas by atleast 1/2 inch. I shrink down everything so it's a lil box inside the full viewing area.
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Ok that's basically what I mean. The image won't fill up the canvas where the red is and the things I listed that I mess with don't move the image up to cover that area. It is suppose to be viewing space though because it's lighter then the black background behind that, or is it not viewing space?

This is basically what I believe it should look like.

_______________________<-border of TV vieweing

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post #1129 of 2962 Old 03-11-2006, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vazel View Post

can someone with a KV-30HS420 give me the default values for these settings? i changed them and stupidly enough i didn't write the default values.

VSZO
VLIN
VSCO
VCEN
VPIN
MPIN
PIN
UCP
LCP
PPHA
VANG
LANG
VBOW
LBOW

The default setting can't be trusted 100%, you will have to try to correct them on your own or call a tech to fix your Geometry. it really depends on what you did. On the previous pages on this thread you have the pdf files of the geometry to help you to figure which do what. It takes times a patience., hours, days,...
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post #1130 of 2962 Old 03-11-2006, 09:24 AM
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i got it all back to normal. yea, for the past couple days i've been racking my head over trying to fix some bowing but nothing i do fixes it. i've read that stuff like this is normal for crt tubes or that if it is fixable it can only be fixed by a tech opening the tv and messing with magnets in there... i'll just learn to live with it.
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post #1131 of 2962 Old 03-11-2006, 09:36 AM
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I am on a XBR960

can someone plz tell me why we are making overscan changes in MID3 not MID1?
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post #1132 of 2962 Old 03-11-2006, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBlix51 View Post

There is one problem, my image doesn't fully fill up the top part of the canvas by atleast 1/2 inch. I shrink down everything so it's a lil box inside the full viewing area.

Ok that's basically what I mean. The image won't fill up the canvas where the red is and the things I listed that I mess with don't move the image up to cover that area. It is suppose to be viewing space though because it's lighter then the black background behind that, or is it not viewing space?

If it only is on top then what comes to mind is it "may" be 2170D-3 4 TBLK but I think there are others that affect that condition as well. On the other hand, there should be a black border all around the screen and that is normal. You can tell easily with the tv off.
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post #1133 of 2962 Old 03-11-2006, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeepFreezed View Post

I am on a XBR960. Can someone plz tell me why we are making overscan changes in MID3 not MID1?

I believe MID3 is specifically for the HD inputs and resolutions... 480p, 720p, 1080i.

I have not touched MID1 or MID2, which I believe are specifically for 480i or other SD resolutions or inputs.

I may be wrong in my understanding, but I only adjusted MID3 and have perfectly acceptable 16:9 presentation with about 1 1/2% overscan on INPUT5 and INPUT6. My 4:3 presentation on INPUT1 and INPUT3 also looks perfect (without any special adjustment), so maybe there's some "overlap" in effect from MID3 (or not).
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post #1134 of 2962 Old 03-11-2006, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeepFreezed View Post

I am on a XBR960

can someone plz tell me why we are making overscan changes in MID3 not MID1?

You do not control overscan in either...!

You control the raster size and thereby the overscan in 2170D-1 and 2. You control the position of the picture from the different inputs and resolutions in the MID settings. 480i in MID2 and the rest in MID3.

You cannot make input and resolution specific changes in MID1.
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post #1135 of 2962 Old 03-11-2006, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptchristensen View Post

You do not control overscan in either...!

You control the raster size and thereby the overscan in 2170D-1 and 2. You control the position of the picture from the different inputs and resolutions in the MID settings. 480i in MID2 and the rest in MID3.

You cannot make input and resolution specific changes in MID1.

Can't use MID-3 with the Sony 30HS420
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post #1136 of 2962 Old 03-11-2006, 04:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Tuning the 2103 Processor for the Cleanest, Sharpest Picture

Sony calls this chip the Color Decoder, and there are separate sections for the main picture and for the TwinView or PIP sub-picture. We will concern ourselves with only the main picture, whose adjustments are found in service mode, group 2103-1. (You can likely apply these settings as well to 2103-2, if it's important to you; I just can't confirm anything.)

NOTE: These adjustments affect only 480i video, not 480p, nor any HD sources. Included are antenna/cable, component-video, digital SD from ATSC tuner or QAM cable. (Can't confirm HDMI.)

REQUIRED: The AVIA DVD, specifically the Sharpness video test pattern. (DVE can also be used, if that's what you have. See details in (2), here.) And a 480i feed from your DVD player, of course. S-video or component is fine.

What is tuning mean? There are digital locked-loops or synchronizing phenomena in the CXA2103 chip that are integral to the digital signal processing in that chip, and it appears that the phase alignment of the video signal is important to eliminate ringing. This is controlled by 2103-1 #19/PPHA. It can have any value from 0 thru 15, and if one varies this from 0 up, the picture shifts slightly to the right for each up-tick, but the picture also changes in the precision of its detail. 7 is dead-center and is the default for this parameter, but it may not be optimum for your set. If you put up the difficult Sharpness pattern from AVIA and vary PPHA from 0 thru 15, you will see about every 5-6 steps that the pattern will occasionally appear very clean, without any multi-cycle ringing or garbage. Other settings will show this garbage, more or less. Let's call these garbage-free PPHA settings the sweet spots.

There are multiple sweet spots for any one TV, and those PPHA values for your set will not necessarily match someone else's; i.e., yours have to be treated as though they're unique, and the object is to find those sweet spots! That's why I can't simply list the settings for my set and say, Try these. Turns out, finding them is relatively easy, and the improvement in picture quality is really quite substantial: improved sharpness and (for lack of a better term) clarity, or freedom from grunge, especially valuable for high-quality SD programming over, say, cable and from DVD. Here is a method that will get you there. (Write the old settings down before changing them!)

(1) Important: Warm up your TV for 30 or more minutes, then restart it into service mode. If you started in service mode, you must power off and on again (into service mode) after warmup!

(2) Put AVIA into your DVD player, and go to the Sharpness test pattern. (Top menu > Advanced AVIA > Video Test Patterns > Resolution > Sharpness). Pause it so it doesn't keep advancing on its own. Display it on the TV in 480i. The video-mode indicator in the SM text should say 480I. For clarity, set DRC mode to CineMotion or Progressive, and use the Pro picture mode.

(3) In group 2103-1, set #6-8, SHAP-SHF0-PREO, to 1 - 3 - 1. Then go to #16, SSMD, and set it to 2. WRITE the settings.

(4) Go to #14, AFCG, and confirm that it is at 0. Change it if it's not, and WRITE.

(5) Now go to #19, PPHA, and survey the settings from 0 thru 15. Note what you see in the center of the Sharpness pattern. For certain values of PPHA, the crossed lines will appear very clean, in contrast to some PPHA values that will show obvious multi-cycle ringing, like fringes on both L and R sides of those central lines. Write down what values seem to yield the clearest lines. Go over them again and confirm it. (If two adjacent values appear alike, the true value is actually between them, and you can't get there! Pay more attention to one of the others.) The best setting for PPHA is one that is obviously cleaner than the value on either side. So if 4 is messy, 5 is messy, 6 is razor-sharp, and 7 is messy again, 6 is a sweet spot.

Set PPHA to the best sweet spot above. It would be preferable if this were a value near the middle of the range, as each deviation from 7 shifts the picture a little bit. But if it's 2 or 13, c'est la vie! Pick the best one, and WRITE. We'll call that value .

(6) You're almost done! Now you have to make sure nothing changes when you go to watch SDTV or DVD from different sources. Switch to each of your available 480i sources, such as analog cable or antenna, VCR on S-video, etc. Check out the value of #14, AFCG; it may have changed to 1. If so, change it to 0, and WRITE. Also copy the settings for SHAP-SHF0-PREO, SSMD, and PPHA (1-3-1 2 ) to the other inputs, too. There are a total of five locations for storing most of these parameters: RF, CV/YC, V5/V6, HDMI, and ATSC/QAM. So try out *all* of your 480i sources, and make sure those settings above are plugged in and written.

(7) That's it! You should expect an improved clarity in SD and DVD sources. Live with it for a few days, and let me know what you think with some feedback.

NOTE: This matter of warmup plus a restart is important. The 2103 chip behaves very differently (a) when cold; (b) when warmed up; and (c) warmed up and restarted. If you warm up the set without restarting and survey the values for PPHA as in (5) above, you will find the "sweet spots" to be in entirely different places! (If you restart before warmup is complete, the restart has no effect.) You could, in fact, tune the set for warmed-up plus NO restart. But as soon as you turned the set off then on again, you would lose those optimum settings. I recommend working with a warmed-up and restarted set. If you are watching 480i video critically, just make a habit of restarting after 20-30 minutes. This whole warmup thing does NOT affect HD or 480p sources AFAIK. One could turn on the TV for an HD show and enjoy it immediately. But if you then wanted to watch a movie on DVD/480i, I would restart.

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post #1137 of 2962 Old 03-11-2006, 07:49 PM - Thread Starter
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A New Approach to SYSM=3 Image Processing
[Minor revision. See description here]

Several of us have expressed frustration while trying to optimize Sharpness settings with SYSM set to 3. With SYSM=2, it has seemed easy. But SYSM=3, while appearing smoother, also gives rise to coarse oversharpening or overshoot while not handling fine textures properly. Can it be improved?

Indulge me here in some audio graphic-equalizer and frequency analogies. Think of fine detail as high frequencies, higher => finer detail. Overshoot or ringing that's fairly coarse can be simulated by raising the mid-treble without raising anything else, boosting a *narrow range* of high frequencies in a hump, but not the highest frequencies a bump in the frequency response, as it were.

SYSM=2 appears to configure the Sharpness slider so that it boosts high frequencies in an upward-sloping ramp: the higher the frequency (finer the detail), the more boost. This looks natural on-screen when tuned just right and tends to counteract natural losses in the video chain, since they tend to be manifest as a ramp-downward in the high frequencies. So far, so good.

But what is so different about SYSM=3? Looking at it intuitively, it appears to me like SYSM=3 configures the Sharpness slider to boost detail starting in, say, the mid-treble (think audio), but does so as a *plateau*: extreme highs (finest textures) are boosted along with mid-highs (mid-detail), but no more than mid-highs like a ramped-step up instead of a sloping ramp that goes up forever. Doesn't look natural.

What might improve this? Enter the interesting high-frequency filters in MID5, MHLY and MHLC. When you first put up a resolution test pattern and vary MHLY from 0 (off) thru 3 (max), it seems just to attenuate detail, like turning down the treble control except for MHLY=2. Think of that graphic equalizer again. Beginning at, say, 2000 the frequency response begins to slope downward, but it *levels out* at 8000 instead of continuing to slope downward forever. MHLY=2 does not seem to be the same-shaped filter as 1 and 3: it's much milder and seems not to trash the finest textures. (MHLC appears to do the same for color.) Well, well . . . Does this sound like the opposite of SYSM=3 or what? What if they complement each other somehow?

(Yes this is how my mind works! Blame it on an early interest in Science, niggling detail, and exposure to all those lab chemicals and lead solder.)

Here are some suggestions for 2170P-3 and MID5 settings that have resulted in less ringing and overshoot than anything I have yet found, and yet super-fine detail is preserved! Use my chart posted here to make sense of the following settings listings. I am listing only setting-columns for 2170P-3 and MID5, and your VM setting doesn't matter here. Typically I have Sharpness set to 30-ish. The "0-3-0-8" group are my favorite VM-shaping settings these days.

Typical HD Broadcast @ 1080i for SYSM=2.

2170P-3: 2n0-3-0-80-1-3-00-1-0x-y-z61 where n,x,y,z = original settings peculiar to my TV.

MID5: 610-0-0-00-3-2-00-3-2-00-0-00-0-0

I then set up a different picture mode identical to the above, with a few differences:

2170P-3: 3n0-3-0-83-1-3-00-1-0x-y-z40 where 40 is a new MID5 column for this purpose.

MID5: 402-2-0-00-3-3-00-3-3-00-0-00-0-0 (Also try 0-3-4-0 for the 2nd and 3rd groups.)

Tested this on the winter Olympics (indoor venues) with stunning results. Photo-like fine details without oversharpening! Gorgeous! I switched among this, the usual SYSM=2 settings, and the more enhanced 0-3-4-0 also suggested above. On slightly softer HD material, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend 0-3-4-0 in MID5 for the 0-3-3-0 groups. Further watching over the last two weeks has confirmed that these are really good settings, too.

I also tried this technique on ordinary SD material, tested with impeccably broadcast evening news on local stations.

Typical SD 480i settings for SYSM=2:

2170P-3: 2n0-3-0-80-1-3-30-1-0x-y-z55

MID5: 550-0-0-00-3-1-10-3-1-10-0-00-0-0

For the test mode I then set up these values:

2170P-3: 3n0-3-0-83-1-3-30-1-0x-y-z34

MID5: 342-2-0-00-3-2-10-3-2-10-3-00-0-0

I also set up a stronger sharpness enhancement with 0-3-3-1 replacing the 0-3-2-1 in the MID5 settings. (Yes, I have set up two of the picture modes (Pro and Vivid) strictly for testing. I use Standard for SYSM=2 settings and Movie for lower Gamma. But that's another discussion. None of Sony's original picture-mode settings have been retained.)

This has transformed my appreciation of SD programming. When the broadcast is good, there is less grunge and greater clarity with fine, photo-like detail (as good as can be had from SD), especially with the 2103-1 tuning outlined in a recent previous article. When switching back to my SYSM=2 mode, I see a different kind of sharpness, just a bit more scratchy, a bit less attractive, a bit less three-dimensional. And with a bit more overshoot.

There is a systematic method to these new settings you can apply to whatever you already have set up for yourself. Here are the rules I'm following, applied to both 2170P-3 and MID5:

I'm taking my favorite settings for any one particular video mode, say DVD over V5 or HD-720p, you name it; and I am:

(1) Changing SYSM=2 to SYSM=3.

(2) Raising 2170P-3/SHOF from 0 to 3 to compensate for the Sharpness slider differences required.

(3) In MID5, changing both MHLY and MHLC from 0 to 2.

(4) In MID5, adding one or two ticks to the sharpness parameters MHYE and MHCE. In the case of SD material, I am adding a *tiny* bit of vertical sharpening by changing MVYL from 0 to 3 while leaving MYVE at 0.

I'd be grateful for any feedback.

NOTES:

(1) Many thanks to Nitewatchman for PM'ing back and forth with me to help me understand I wasn't hallucinating these improvements. They may be subtle, but they're not imaginary! He also helped check out the method for tuning the 2103 settings in the previous article.

(2) I have now taken over MID5 columns 30-63. I see no more need to preserve Sony's original settings, as they have been superseded in every instance by my own. For that matter, 0-29 aren't sacred, either. If any column ever has to be restored, the SM charts have all of the default values.

(3) In the above examples, the MIDE/MID5 values can be anything, as long as they agree. Use whatever column(s) you have already configured, or a new one, it doesn't matter. For example, in my scheme MID5 column 34 is now permanently set as indicated, and that's what I show here as an example. But you could use any column, not necessarily 34. Same with 55, 40, etc.

(4) These experiments are not casting any settings in stone but pointing in a certain direction, and I sure like the results. Some further refinements may be necessary. I'm hoping there are folks out there who have tried out some of the settings we've suggested before, working with the IP chart, who will try these, too.

KenTech
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post #1138 of 2962 Old 03-11-2006, 08:30 PM
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Wow, KenTech you are the MAN! You should be calling yourself Tommy Tweaker.

I may not get to it for a couple of days, but I will most likely give your new stuff a try. I don't have AVIA, however, only DVE. I have been using your previously posted settings with the exception of using SYSM at 3 instead of your (then) recommended 2. It sure has made my laserdiscs look good, provided I crank up the Reality portion of the DRC, although I leave the Clarity set at 0 as it seems to just soften the image. And, DVDs at 480p are great, but apparently they could be better. I am kind of worn out from resetting everything lately, but I will check out these new finds. Thank you for your never ending search for the Ultimate Picture.

By the by, have you done any research on Digital Reality Creation and how best to implement it?
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post #1139 of 2962 Old 03-11-2006, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mapson View Post

If it only is on top then what comes to mind is it "may" be 2170D-3 4 TBLK but I think there are others that affect that condition as well. On the other hand, there should be a black border all around the screen and that is normal. You can tell easily with the tv off.

It's not the black border. The 2170D-3 4 TBLK DID let the image use up that unused half inch space but not regular. The part that had no image now looks like this

\\imageimageimageim/ Also the image in here is not full, it has a lot of black lines going through this half inch space, I wish I could take a picture to describe what I'm seeing better.


Edit: Ok I messed around with the options in 2170d-3 VDJP and it straitned out the half inch at the top and also took away the black lines so now I can see the full HUD on GRAW.
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post #1140 of 2962 Old 03-12-2006, 12:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy Tweaker View Post

By the by, have you done any research on Digital Reality Creation and how best to implement it?

I would if I could, but I have the 36XS955, and DRC is fixed, not variable. There is no DRC palette, just the ability to switch among Interlaced, Progressive, and CineMotion.

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