THE SONY SERVICE CODES - Articles, Comments, Discoveries - Page 85 - AVS Forum
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Old 06-11-2007, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duwdu View Post

Also, I previously read the messages you referenced. None seems to address this particular problem of the SM coming back without any text on it to chose from. Perhaps you could further direct me?

Keep in mind, The SM isn't "coming back" when you turn on the set normally, only the test pattern. So, There is/will be no text on it if you are OUTSIDE of SM+operating the set normally.

You have to enter SM so you can "see" the SM text, and move to QM/PATN and change/write the QM/PATN value to "0" (no test pattern).

As G-bull said, I've also never heard of a situation where you would not be able to re-enter SM and fix this, so, if it isn't a problem with your remote involving the capability to enter SM, afraid I can't be of any help there.

Jeff
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Old 06-11-2007, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Bull View Post

duwdu,

It sounds like you're saying that you can't get back into the service mode. If so, that's very strange - this would be the first I've heard of a TV that had previously entered service mode just fine, but now refuses to cooperate.

Make sure you're going step-by-step to get back into the service mode...

1) Turn OFF the TV

2) Make sure the remote control is set to control the TV (and not the cable box or DVD player or whatever) by pressing the "TV" function button on the remote

3) Point your remote toward the TV and enter the service mode by pressing these four keys, in order, relatively quickly (each key must be pressed within one second of the previous key):
- Display
- 5
- Volume UP
- Power

Your TV should then turn on in service mode, and you should be able to do as Nitewatchman has suggested, and navigate to the PATN parameter (within the QM menu) and set it to zero. Then "write" this new setting so the TV saves it to memory.

G-Bull,

Am actually doing as you've enumerated, and have been doing it for about three weeks now, successfully. It appears I do get into the SM, but there are no menus in the service mode to chose from, it is as if the pattern has covered up the menus! Please see the third quote I made above, the one I describe as scary... the symptons seem to fit what I am experiencing.

Thanks for any further help.

My audio listening nirvana is best served rich ... with bass very well done.
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Old 06-11-2007, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duwdu View Post

Please see the third quote I made above, the one I describe as scary... the symptons seem to fit what I am experiencing.

Oh no ... You wouldn't see a test pattern at all if something like THAT were happening ...

Quote:


It appears I do get into the SM, but there are no menus in the service mode to chose from, it is as if the pattern has covered up the menus!

Have never seen that happen either(the pattern covering up the SM menus), and don't know how you would know you were in SM if you couldn't see the menus ... Turning All the guns off (2170P1/RGBS=0) is the only thing I have come across which "turns off" the SM menus (and everything else! )

What happens if you are on an input Other than HDMI when you try to enter SM ? If you haven't tried it, maybe try that -- such as the RF input (ANT button), or an S-video/Composite video input (video 1~3) ... Then, maybe you could switch to HDMI input within SM+hopefully then still be able to see the menus in order to write QM/PATN To "0" ...

Jeff
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Old 06-11-2007, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitewatchman View Post

Keep in mind, The SM isn't "coming back" when you turn on the set normally, only the test pattern. So, There is/will be no text on it if you are OUTSIDE of SM+operating the set normally.

You have to enter SM so you can "see" the SM text, and move to QM/PATN and change/write the QM/PATN value to "0" (no test pattern).

As G-bull said, I've also never heard of a situation where you would not be able to re-enter SM and fix this, so, if it isn't a problem with your remote involving the capability to enter SM, afraid I can't be of any help there.

Thanks Nite, am not just turning on the TV normally, am entering the SM from the standby state as G-Bull has enumerated, and have been successful before this problem started. Thanks anyways. I'll probably have to try another remote, may be indeed some of the buttons have suddenly gone bunkers, it's just that this set is so brand new...

duwdu

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Old 06-11-2007, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitewatchman View Post

Oh no ... You wouldn't see a test pattern at all if something like THAT were happening ...



Have never seen that happen either(the pattern covering up the SM menus), and don't know how you would know you were in SM if you couldn't see the menus ... Turning All the guns off (2170P1/RGBS=0) is the only thing I have come across which "turns off" the SM menus (and everything else! )

What happens if you are on an input Other than HDMI when you try to enter SM ? If you haven't tried it, maybe try that -- such as the RF input (ANT button), or an S-video/Composite video input (video 1~3) ... Then, maybe you could switch to HDMI input within SM+hopefully then still be able to see the menus in order to write QM/PATN To "0" ...

You are da bomb Nite! I selected another input - just pressed the TV/Video button once after turning on the TV normally, as I had previously disabled all but the HDMI and one other input, switched off, then re-entered the SM - and Viola! my SM UI is back.

You've saved me a lot of aggravation Nitewatchman (and G-Bull). Many many thanks to you and the community.

duwdu

My audio listening nirvana is best served rich ... with bass very well done.
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Old 06-12-2007, 10:23 AM
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I was tweaking my picture using the service menu and decided to change back all of it to default values. Then i "WRITE" the UCP value back to 33 and doing so changed my screen to what looks similar to a checkers board from eye view, full size of the screen and has a black background. I can't do anything else with my remote other than going into the service menu and changing values of codes (which im definetly never touching again). What did i do? How do i get out of this! All i wanted to do was fix some geometry issues!

BTW i was using my DVE disc at the time and i noticed in the service menu its changed from 480i to 1080i.
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Old 06-12-2007, 07:27 PM
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It has taken me a few weeks, but I have finally read all 85 pages and discovered many helpful hints to fine tune my XBR970. I've been able to adjust the overscan down to about 4%, fixed a horrendous tilt problem, and the picture geometry is now pretty darn good...THANK YOU to everyone here who contributed expert advice.

However one thing I have not been able to fix is a vertical position difference between my DVD player (input #4, component cables, 480p) and my satellite receiver (input #5,component cables, 1080i).

If I center the image (up and down) from the DVD player the broadcast TV image does not go quite to the top of the screen. Is there a way to adjust the vertical position of these inputs independently?
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Old 06-12-2007, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassface View Post

It has taken me a few weeks, but I have finally read all 85 pages and discovered many helpful hints to fine tune my XBR970. I've been able to adjust the overscan down to about 4%, fixed a horrendous tilt problem, and the picture geometry is now pretty darn good...THANK YOU to everyone here who contributed expert advice.

However one thing I have not been able to fix is a vertical position difference between my DVD player (input #4, component cables, 480p) and my satellite receiver (input #5,component cables, 1080i).

If I center the image (up and down) from the DVD player the broadcast TV image does not go quite to the top of the screen. Is there a way to adjust the vertical position of these inputs independently?


Can you disconnect the DVD player and insert the satellite there, to see if the shift still occurs? Or the other way around? That way you can rule out a signal discrepancy.
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Old 06-13-2007, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassface View Post

However one thing I have not been able to fix is a vertical position difference between my DVD player (input #4, component cables, 480p) and my satellite receiver (input #5,component cables, 1080i).

If I center the image (up and down) from the DVD player the broadcast TV image does not go quite to the top of the screen. Is there a way to adjust the vertical position of these inputs independently?

I think DHVP within MID2 will do what you're trying to do, but you'll have to try it out to be sure. It has been a while since I messed around in the SM... I don't recall whether input4 and input5 can be adjusted independently, or if it adjusts both of these "component video" inputs at the same time. I do believe, however, that it treats each resolution independently, so the setting for 480p can be adjusted separately from 1080i...
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Old 06-14-2007, 04:56 PM
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Well I tried adjusting the vertical position with DHVP (in MID 2), but that moves the image up or down within the raster. It's the raster which does not reach the top of the CRT. The same thing happens when I try to fix this using SCRL or ASPT.

The only way I have found to make the raster meet the top of the picture tube is to adjust Vertical Correction in the User Menu to +4 or +5 when watching the satellite dish, then resetting Vertical Correction to 0 when watching DVD's.
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Old 06-17-2007, 12:26 PM
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This is my first post in this forum. I've been able to get a great picture from all the tips in this thread on my 34hs420 but I feel I've just dodged a bullet.

I had my set turned on and left the room for about 40 minutes. A thunderstorm caused the power to go off for about 5 seconds. When I returned to my set I noticed that colors were distorted. Normally green text was blue and there was a halo of green and pink tints surrounded the outer edges of the screen.

Searching the net I attributed this to overheating & warping of the aperture grill. Hopefully not too late I realized I should turn the set off to let the grill cool down. Luckily when I turned it back on a few minutes later the colors were back to normal.

What can I do to prevent permanent damage to the grill? Did the power suddenly turning off and then coming back on abruptly cause the set to send to much current from the electron beam and overheat the grill? Or is there a service menu contrast/white level adjustment that is possibly set too high? Thanks.
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Old 06-17-2007, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetra Vard View Post

...I had my set turned on and left the room for about 40 minutes. A thunderstorm caused the power to go off for about 5 seconds. When I returned to my set I noticed that colors were distorted. Normally green text was blue and there was a halo of green and pink tints surrounded the outer edges of the screen.....

Is it possible that the power bump was multiple, quick power fluctuations? If so, then its very possible that what you initially saw was an interupted cycling of the degaussing circuit. Incomplete degaussing of crts can create the symptoms you describe. The degaussing circuit operation is the surging sound heard at initial powerup.

BTW, The degaussing circuit heats up when it cycles on, therefore it has a cool down period of 5 to 10 minutes before it will cycle again.

Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin
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Old 06-17-2007, 11:10 PM
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Thanks Raouliii. I see you've helped others with their magnetic problems.

I don't think there was a rapid power cycling. The lights went off once for a very short time and then came back on. This never happened to me during a storm before but maybe a nearby lightning strike created an emp and magnetized the screen. I'm guessing the set was still "on" even though the power was out so it didn't degauss when the power came back on a few seconds later....if degaussing only occurs when you manually power up that is. I'm just guessing because I know very little about the technical side of this.
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Old 06-18-2007, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duwdu View Post

Thanks Nite, am not just turning on the TV normally, am entering the SM from the standby state as G-Bull has enumerated, and have been successful before this problem started. Thanks anyways. I'll probably have to try another remote, may be indeed some of the buttons have suddenly gone bunkers, it's just that this set is so brand new...

duwdu


Another thing to be aware of is the "Device" the remote is trying to send the commands to (ie. DVD, ANT, CABLE or TV). You will know by looking at the remote when you press the button, a red light will flash rapidly above the device it is sending commands for. (Sorry for two sentences in a row ending with prepositions! )

This can be a simple, yet confouding detail to note while mucking about in the SM.

Cheers,

Bryan
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Old 06-18-2007, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shifty_Effect View Post

I was tweaking my picture using the service menu and decided to change back all of it to default values. Then i "WRITE" the UCP value back to 33 and doing so changed my screen to what looks similar to a checkers board from eye view, full size of the screen and has a black background. I can't do anything else with my remote other than going into the service menu and changing values of codes (which im definetly never touching again). What did i do? How do i get out of this! All i wanted to do was fix some geometry issues!

BTW i was using my DVE disc at the time and i noticed in the service menu its changed from 480i to 1080i.


Sounds like the classic case of an internal pattern being saved before exit.

Indulge me and enter the SM and page back (5 button) until you reach the group labled "QM" the page forward within the group (1 button) until you reach the PATN group then lower the value (6 button) until it reads zero.

Hopefully, your picture should have returned. If it has, SAVE (MUTE then ENTER)!

Let us know if this helps.....

Bryan
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Old 06-21-2007, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John K. View Post

My Sony KDF-60XS955 took a crap today. all i can say is that the red stanby led flahes 6 times, and repeats itself. any help out there on what this may mean


John my tv did same thing. tech came in replaced the fuse in back. its a heat fuse gets too hot it burns out. It is on a wire that is about 2 ft long 1 white whire 1 gray wire. has red tape taping them together last 8 to 10 inches is black with a small black piece of plastic on the end . that is the fuse. on the wire(black part of wire) it says e30522 hi-tube-n 105c 300v vw-1 -f- hrakawa-l. its aplug in wire did not see where it plugs in. at same time they blew dust out of tv that can cause it to overheat. was also told the lamp when it burns out will do same thing. the lamp is an easy replacement. (SONY will replace within first yr) on the front of the tv, at the botttom where it says HDTV that piece of plastic pops off. lamp is behind that allen screw on left side has to be removed. new bulb comes with an allen wrench. new bulbs online for about $160

the fuse doesnt seem that hard to replace take back lower plastic of tv off look for 1 gray wire and white wire that has 3 pieces of red tape on it and the last 8 to 10 inces is black with the little black square plastic piece on the end (small) about 1/4 inch square.


hope this helps
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Old 06-26-2007, 12:25 PM
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This question may have been answered before, but it would take me forever to dig through 85 pages of text to find it...

Anyhow, when watching a 4:3 program in normal aspect mode, the vertical gray bars on each side of the picture cut off a little more than I would have like them to (the picture looks more like a 5:4 image rather than 4:3). Is there a parameter in the SM that allows me to either adjust the size of the grey bars, or remove them completely?

Thanks.
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Old 07-11-2007, 07:45 AM
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Is there a list of the service menu items that can be adjusted for the KDL46XBR2? I can see the menu items, but I can't decifer what they mean.

I'd like to adjust the vertical and horizontal size of the display a couple of pixels, in order to remove some junk at the top of the display when in "full pixel" mode. I like full pixel mode better than normal mode, because it shows quite a bit more of the actual frame on all sides.
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Old 07-11-2007, 09:57 AM
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That model does not sound like a CRT. Since this is the CRT forum, you might have better luck posting in the forum for your particular TV type.
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Old 07-12-2007, 03:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by au revoir View Post

That model does not sound like a CRT. Since this is the CRT forum, you might have better luck posting in the forum for your particular TV type.

Whoops! I saw "Service Codes" in the forum title, but didn't see the CRT Displays. I'll look for something in the LCD forums. Thanks.
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Old 07-17-2007, 10:21 PM
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Hi

I after some help with my Sony 32" running 720p from a HTPC.

I have used the service menu in the past to correct geometry and color decoding with success.

However the current problem has occurred after moving the TV to a new house. So the TV is now in a different orientation and I can see some geometry flaws due to the earth's magnetic field.

The problem that I don't know how to fix is a flickering of the image from left to right. The image flickers back and forth in the horizontal direction, and is worse in the top left and bottom right corners. At the seating position the horizontal flickering causes a flickering of intensity in the 2 corners.

It only does this in 60Hz and not in 50Hz mode.

Has anyone seen this problem before and have a potential solution?

Brad
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Old 07-18-2007, 07:33 AM
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Does this occur on all inputs?

What about when you use the TV's tuner?

How are you switching from 60hz to 50hz? From your PC?

Hopefully this interference is coming from your video source rather than the TV itself. Or maybe there is some electrical equipment nearby causing the problem. Or the electrical power in the new location is unstable.

Do you have a good power strip for protection against power surges?

Maybe someone else has some better ideas, but that's about all I can come up with ATM.
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Old 07-18-2007, 01:37 PM
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There is a guy on Ebay selling PDF files of the 970 service manual for $12. I bought one and it seems to be the real deal. Most of the manual is devoted to diassembly and physical testing and repair, but there is a nice section on the service menu. To me it was well worth $12. Just search "kd 34xbr970" and see Store results.
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Old 07-18-2007, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by au revoir View Post

Does this occur on all inputs

What about when you use the TV's tuner?

How are you switching from 60hz to 50hz? From your PC?

Hopefully this interference is coming from your video source rather than the TV itself. Or maybe there is some electrical equipment nearby causing the problem. Or the electrical power in the new location is unstable.

Do you have a good power strip for protection against power surges?

Maybe someone else has some better ideas, but that's about all I can come up with ATM.


Thanks for the reply.
I only use the vga input, but can check the RF input.
It does occur on 60Hz 720p and 30Hz 1080i, but not 50Hz 720p or 25Hz 1080i from the PC.
It's possible that the power is not great, but I am using a belkin surge protector power board.
I would've thought that the most likely problem is something that is common to the 60Hz 720p and 30Hz 1080i, modes on the TV. Hence there might be something in the service menu that can be changed
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Old 08-08-2007, 12:17 AM
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Did anyone in this thread ever fully explain the DCTR (Dynamic Picture)? I recall a post or two about it by Kentech, but I don't think anyone fully explained the proper *middle* settings for DCTR. APED, and DSBO. I know that BLK? holds the different settings for these values, but I'd really like to know the proper starting point.

And help?
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Old 08-08-2007, 04:30 PM
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Quick questions:

KD-30XS955. Service menu.

I got in there and got familiar with it and exited without saving any changes. I will gain more experience before I save anything.

1- Is the only way to leave the service menu to turn off the TV?

2- If I make some changes to parameters and NEVER WRITE them to memory, what does the command [8] then [enter] do? Does this reset even things I didn't adjust to some other default values? Or does this only return anything I might have changed to the last memorized values?

Sorry if this seems basic. I hit many of the links and did quick search, but couldn't find this. Also in the post "02 - Navigating Service Menu" it says press - Enter to reset settings but this resulted in a message something like "feature not available" (I don't quite remember).

Thanks for the help. I'm confident that with a bit more research I can improve a slight convergence issue and some overscan. Nothing major. Thanks!

How DARE you question my ignorance!?!
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Old 08-08-2007, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_Likes_Games View Post

1- Is the only way to leave the service menu to turn off the TV?

Yes, at least that I'm aware of.

Quote:


2- If I make some changes to parameters and NEVER WRITE them to memory, what does the command [8] then [enter] do?

I don't know, nor do I know why you would press [8] then enter, but then again it's been quite some time since I've worked in the Sony's SM ...

I've only used the 1+3, 2+5 and 3+6 number keys when working in SM. 7~9 keys were "off limits" for my fingers

.... From KenTech's "02-navigating Service mode" post :

Quote:
Originally Posted by KenTech View Post

CAUTION: AVOID keys 7 and 9, as they are part of a key-sequence that can reset all of the deflection or image-decoding settings back to a "factory-newborn" state. If you think you've hit any key by accident, STOP. In a few seconds it will revert back to SERVICE mode, as you'll see at the right side of the screen. All dangerous key-sequences are combinations of *three* keys, by the way.


Quote:


Does this reset even things I didn't adjust to some other default values?

The key combination that does that is the one Ken Mentions as quoted above. Don't do it . Going from others who did make that mistake(after many warnings here cautioning them NOT to do it), The "other default values" are not the defaults as they were "adjusted" at the factory, instead they are likely some set of useless(except perhaps for those at the factory starting on every set with the "same" set of values to start with) defaults present BEFORE any factory adjustments were made.

Quote:


Also in the post "02 - Navigating Service Menu" it says press - Enter to reset settings but this resulted in a message something like "feature not available" (I don't quite remember).

FWIW, I think I may have tried that once+ I think it may worked on my XBR960, but other than testing it, I never used it as I preferred, basically, not giving myself that "option", although on occasion for testing some things out(w/o writing any values) I did use the power cycling option to clear my "new" values(often on those occasions I wanted to power back up outside of SM anyway) ..... And instead, was sure to be careful enough to log everything as necessary and it was easy enough to change values back if I had already written them+ended up wanting to use something different or the "factory adjusted" default values ...

-----

Hope some of that helps ....

Quote:


Sorry if this seems basic.

Not at all.

Jeff
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Old 08-08-2007, 05:46 PM
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Jeff,

Thanks man - glad to see you're still enjoying being a source of help on this!

I got this from the notes at the bottom of the 34XBR910 spreadsheet: "Restore Factory Defaults = [8] - [ENTER]". So that's why I was asking about that.

Don't worry, I have NO intention of resetting to the "newborn" state with the 7 and 9 buttons - I WON'T do that!

How DARE you question my ignorance!?!
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Old 08-08-2007, 07:42 PM
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^ No problem Mark -- I probably won't be too active on this thread in future as I am starting to get "rusty" on this stuff, as it has been quite a while since I've worked with any of it! I do enjoy looking at some fine looking video on the set, however+appreciating the info from this thread which helped me to get it looking like that!

Also, although I have some important stuff such as the XBR960 SM codes pages and the geometry+other pages from Service manual, as well as my notes/files on my sets factory default settings+my changes as well as important test patterns+info from this thread(Including various charts+posts from Ken), easily accessable some of the other stuff I had looked at but really didn't use has gotten archived onto DVD/CD's, and in some cases it would take quite a bit of searching to dig any of it up ....

Jeff

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Old 08-14-2007, 12:40 AM
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Not really sure if this is adding to the thread much or not, but I thought I'd talk about the ENHA settings that are on my 34xs955 and how they have helped me achieve a better focus and sharpness of my picture without having to do the manual focus adjustment.

ENHA
HSHP - settings are from 0 - 255 and I've set mine at 0 since I'm not entirely sure what this setting does. It was set at 50 from the factory.

HSFO - Seems to be a focus offest parameter. I haven't really had to time to test out some theories I have for this setting, but I do know that the settings are from 0 - 15 (blurred to focused) and 15 really helped my focus tremendously. However, I didn't find the setting until after I had done a dynamic focus adjustment, so it is entirely possible that this code could be used in conjunction with a dynamic focus to get even more precise results. For instance, you could set HSFO to 7 and then do a focus adjustment, then readjust HSFO to your liking.

HPOR - No idea what it does, but 0 seems to be off which is where I have it at.

HLTL - This one, combined with HLTM appear to be either a focus shift? or a parameter that can be used to center any doubling of lines. Excuse my terminology, but to give an example of how this worked for me...

I always saw double lines, or a faint shadow from everything that I couldn't get rid of. It was easy to spot with dark text on a white background. All of the letters had this astigmatism to them. (This may have been caused by some sharpness offsets I used in my earlier adjustments for this set) Anyway, to make a long story short, I was able to try different combinations of HLTL and HLTM until I removed the doubling of lines. HLTL is from 0 - 3 and HLTM is either 0 or 1. My settings ended up at HLTL 3 and HLTM 0.

With my new settings for this set, it's harder to see what HLTL and HLTM do. Maybe Kentech or someone can explain it, but when HLTL is set to 3 and I switch HLTM to 1 I can see any sharpness pattern I have up change from very white lines to very dark lines. It almost resembles turning the sharpness down on the user menu, but I think it is something more than that. I'm just not sure, but I'll keep experimenting.

HAPL - Seems to work like a sub picture level of some kind. 0 is off which is where I have it set for now.

HAPA - Not really sure what this does, maybe it's an Amplitude for one or some of the other ENHA settings. I have set it at 0.

HCTL - unsure, so I set it at 0

HCTM - unsure, so I set it at 0 as well.
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