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Direct View (single tube) CRT Displays > The definitive SM codes for getting the most from your sony!
SurfingMatt27's Avatar SurfingMatt27 12:50 PM 01-16-2006
Adjust QPDC for overall focus on the screen, ?And for SYSM you have to adjust it for each input and resolution, mine are all at 3.

Matt~

Ratman's Avatar Ratman 01:07 PM 01-16-2006
Why don't you post under CrocHunter anymore?
Jaded's Avatar Jaded 09:56 PM 01-16-2006
man Nick,Croc/Matt and Ken are amazing. i get they day off today so im going to go thru all your advices and hopefully ome out on top with my 30HS :)
Jaded's Avatar Jaded 11:32 PM 01-16-2006
should i really use Pro mode when adjusting? it seems dull and not that bright.
Jediphish's Avatar Jediphish 05:42 AM 01-17-2006
Yes you should be using Pro.

One of your first adjustments should be to SBRT - which adjusts Brightness, or the Black Level, of the set. Use a Pluge pattern to do it correctly. This should give you good Brightness with the User Menu Brightness slider set to the mid point (31). You also have to adjust Pictures/Contrast ("White Level").

Afterwards, you probably won't think of Pro as being as flat.
Jaded's Avatar Jaded 05:55 AM 01-17-2006
ok i should adjust with Pro at it's normal settings right(pic,contrast...etc)?
Jediphish's Avatar Jediphish 06:07 AM 01-17-2006
My suggestion (and this is what I did) is to go through the entire thread Sony Service Manual thread and locate the 15 or so Articles that KenH has written (beginning with the first couple of posts in this thread). Cut and paste them into a word processor document program (MS Word) and then print it out. Read it a couple of times. Also print out the Chart KenH attached on a page or two back from this last post. If you can look at the chart while reading the Articles, it will make more sense. Then just follow his instructions and your basic questions will be answered.
SurfingMatt27's Avatar SurfingMatt27 07:18 AM 01-17-2006
Yup what Jedi just said, get a pluge pattern then adjust SBRT for brightness in the service menu.Once brightness is set then move onto contrast and adjust that, According to DVE though it seems my contrast setting was already set right, right in the middle is where it should be according to DVE and after carefull observation it was right since there was some minor blooming raising contrast up a bit.

Then after that you can adjust to get rid of red push use items RYR and RYB.I would recommend downloading the service manual of these sets to see what the settings in the service menu are.Because theres an awful lot of enhancements that need to be turned completely off for your picture quality to really shine through.

Oh and Ratman, my IP address was blocked somehow with that name on my computer so i had to use another name and use my dads computer downstairs instead.
Napoleon D's Avatar Napoleon D 07:38 AM 02-06-2006
Ken Tech

In response to your "Image-Processing Codes6b.pdf" article/document. I've seen that since you posted that message, you've changed a few opinions on things. I saw the whole discussion on whether to use SYSM -2 or 3. I have gone back and forth myself, with calibrating my 480P dvd component input. My calibrator set it on 3. I think ultimately this is the way to go, it is a much smoother and cleaner image. SYSM 2, although it brings all that fine detail neatly to the surface, the tradeoff is a noisier picture. I have come to the conclusion that SYSM 3 is the way to go, although it needs some help, since the picture is so smooth that you need to strain to see the detail more. The calibrator turned off every edge enhancment in the service menu, except for a MIDE setting. He set MIDE to 17, although I don't think this was a strong enough setting. You mentioned you created a MIDE 60 setting, which i tried out with the appropriate sub-category settings etc. While it looks ok, and brings out fine detail a little more, the image still needs some help in making details more "visible."

I originally thought that ANY edge enhancement is bad, but in this case the image actually benefits, and even needs it. The trick is to bring the image just at the surface so details are able to be seen, but not overshooting. The calibrator has sharpness middled/leveled out, which is where i should probably leave it. My question, is there another sharpness enhancing feature i should be using instead of, or in addition to a strong MIDE setting? I want to give that smooth picture the appropriate sharpness boost (with setting on SYSM 3) without giving the image too much visible edge enhancement. Your articles give some suggestion on what settings to use, but when getting to a specific input, they can get vague. (I understand you were generous enough to post them in the first place, as they have helped out many) Perhaps there was an article i missed, which is probably the case.

Thanks Ken, or anyone else that can help!
justsc's Avatar justsc 11:18 AM 02-06-2006
Quote:
Originally Posted by Napoleon D
Ken Tech

In response to your "Image-Processing Codes6b.pdf" article/document. I've seen that since you posted that message, you've changed a few opinions on things. I saw the whole discussion on whether to use SYSM -2 or 3. I have gone back and forth myself, with calibrating my 480P dvd component input. My calibrator set it on 3. I think ultimately this is the way to go, it is a much smoother and cleaner image. SYSM 2, although it brings all that fine detail neatly to the surface, the tradeoff is a noisier picture. I have come to the conclusion that SYSM 3 is the way to go, although it needs some help, since the picture is so smooth that you need to strain to see the detail more. The calibrator turned off every edge enhancment in the service menu, except for a MIDE setting. He set MIDE to 17, although I don't think this was a strong enough setting. You mentioned you created a MIDE 60 setting, which i tried out with the appropriate sub-category settings etc. While it looks ok, and brings out fine detail a little more, the image still needs some help in making details more "visible."

I originally thought that ANY edge enhancement is bad, but in this case the image actually benefits, and even needs it. The trick is to bring the image just at the surface so details are able to be seen, but not overshooting. The calibrator has sharpness middled/leveled out, which is where i should probably leave it. My question, is there another sharpness enhancing feature i should be using instead of, or in addition to a strong MIDE setting? I want to give that smooth picture the appropriate sharpness boost (with setting on SYSM 3) without giving the image too much visible edge enhancement. Your articles give some suggestion on what settings to use, but when getting to a specific input, they can get vague. (I understand you were generous enough to post them in the first place, as they have helped out many) Perhaps there was an article i missed, which is probably the case.

Thanks Ken, or anyone else that can help!
This is very well-written and echoes my thoughts and questions perfectly. I am amazed at how much difference I perceive between SYSM 3 and SYSM 2. While I have happily settled on SYSM 3, I just have to believe there is some detail yet to be exposed (rather than added). This is especially important for me since I have the HS420 series set without the super fine pitch tube.
SurfingMatt27's Avatar SurfingMatt27 02:50 PM 02-06-2006
Nothing wrong with my SONY 34HS420 with SYSM-3 and all image processing codes in the MIDE-5 chart set to 0.

Picture looks razor sharp!!It's the content now that determines the clarity of the PQ not the tv set.If it's a good signal it will show, if it's bad it will be blurry.
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