You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 1774 Old 11-21-2007, 08:23 AM
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Mark,

I think it was very cool that you were able to replace the ICs without actually removing the D-Board from your TV. In my case, I slid the entire lower chassis out and worked on the D-Board while it was still mounted in place. One nice thing about that option is that the chassis can function as a holder to keep the D-Board in a vertical position for the desoldering and soldering. It also makes it easy to access both sides of the D-Board.

Bob
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post #32 of 1774 Old 11-21-2007, 01:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertF View Post

Mark,

I think it was very cool that you were able to replace the ICs without actually removing the D-Board from your TV. In my case, I slid the entire lower chassis out and worked on the D-Board while it was still mounted in place. One nice thing about that option is that the chassis can function as a holder to keep the D-Board in a vertical position for the desoldering and soldering. It also makes it easy to access both sides of the D-Board.

Bob

Actually I did remove the D-board... But not completely.
And I was able to leave most the wires connected.
Did You have to disconnect any, if not most, connections? It seemed to me that you have to disconnect more wires to be able to get the board out far enough to work on. I believe I had to disconnect 3 wire connectors (2 for the Deguass coils and 1 for what seemed to be a jumper from the A-board), AND the jumpers that connect between the D and A-boards (5 of those.. and they were the hardest to disconnect).
Also, I thought of doing that, but part of the housing for the boards, partially covers the 1 IC. And I didn't want to cut any of that out of the way.
I wish I took pictures of the process now . I was more wanting to get it fixed .

Thank You for the post
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post #33 of 1774 Old 11-21-2007, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Goetz View Post

Actually I did remove the D-board... But not completely.
And I was able to leave most the wires connected.
Did You have to disconnect any, if not most, connections? It seemed to me that you have to disconnect more wires to be able to get the board out far enough to work on. I believe I had to disconnect 3 wire connectors (2 for the Deguass coils and 1 for what seemed to be a jumper from the A-board), AND the jumpers that connect between the D and A-boards (5 of those.. and they were the hardest to disconnect).
Also, I thought of doing that, but part of the housing for the boards, partially covers the 1 IC. And I didn't want to cut any of that out of the way.
I wish I took pictures of the process now . I was more wanting to get it fixed .

Thank You for the post

Yes, I needed to disconnect every wire connecting the main lower chassis to the rest of the TV. I labeled every connector with folded over pieces of masking tape to simplify the reassembly process. That was actually a pretty easy process with the exception of the two red wires that run to the D-Board mounted flyback. I was just unable to disconnect those at the flyback. For the thicker red wire I just disconnected it at the anode cap connector at the top of the tube. And I ended up cutting the smaller red wire that ran up the the yoke mounted C-Board. I spliced that wire back together after I reinstalled the chassis.

Another Agoraquest forum member has since posted that the flyback wires can be removing by pulling..... with a good deal of force. I thought that might work but I was afraid I would damage something. (As an update, some have had the wire break off inside the flyback. So use caution or just cut and splice.)

The plastic chassis bracing did partially obstruct access to one of the D-Board MCZ3001D ICs. But I was able to work around that without removing it.


Bob
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post #34 of 1774 Old 11-28-2007, 11:53 AM
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I was getting the dreaded 6 blinks, no powerup on my 36xbr800. After reading many posts and troubleshooting the circuits, I tried one last thing: replacing both mcz3001d's on the D board: IC6501 and 8002(?). Guess what? It works now! Thanks to everyone on this board for helping me save this TV from a landfill.

I used the mcz3001db's form Hitachi.
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post #35 of 1774 Old 11-28-2007, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubose View Post



I was getting the dreaded 6 blinks, no powerup on my 36xbr800. After reading many posts and troubleshooting the circuits, I tried one last thing: replacing both mcz3001d's on the D board: IC6501 and 8002(?). Guess what? It works now! Thanks to everyone on this board for helping me save this TV from a landfill.

I used the mcz3001db's form Hitachi.

Congratulations on the successful repair!

Did you install 18 pin sockets to simplify future replacements?

Did you remove the D-Board from the TV for the soldering work?

Bob
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post #36 of 1774 Old 11-28-2007, 01:29 PM
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Well, there is a story behind this. The TV died about three weeks ago. After much hurried troubleshooting and research here on avsforum, I went ahead and ordered the IC's online with overnight shipping. I wanted to get the parts and try them before "black friday" because I had my eye on a sweet Sharp LCD TV if the repair was unsuccessful.

The part was overnighted to me, with the other IC backordered(!). I immediately replaced IC6501 and tried it. No luck, but the TV behaved differently. At this point, it was the day before thanksgiving and I decided to go ahead and buy a new TV. Fast forward to last night and the backordered IC arrives. I replaced IC8002 with this one and now the TV works.

One thing to note, in my hurry to repair the TV before thanksgiving, I did not solder one pin of IC6501. I noticed this last night after replacing the second IC (8002). Since the TV behaved differently after replacing the first IC 6501, I think I just got in a hurry and probably would've had it fixed that first day. Oh well. Now I have 2 sweet TVs. The picture quality on this XBR is still better than my new LCD...

I did not use sockets...I was going to but I accidently stepped on them (fell out of my pocket) breaking all the pins. I have done a lot of IC swapping in my day so it was no big deal (even though I missed soldering a pin like a total noob).

I also did not remove the D Board. I just propped it up into service position and took the lineman's pliers to that hard gray plastic covering IC6501. I figured if it works, great. If not, oh well.

Again, thank you for all the help!
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post #37 of 1774 Old 11-29-2007, 07:16 AM
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Thanks for the additional information.

And congratulations again on the successful repair. These TVs really do have spectacular images. I wonder how many of these sets are in landfills simply because a $6 IC failed.

Bob
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post #38 of 1774 Old 11-29-2007, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertF View Post

I would like to second the recommendation made above to install 18 pin sockets. That will reduce the risk of damaging the IC during soldering and it will simplify any future replacements.

I installed sockets when I replaced two of the ICs in my KV-36XBR400. IC6501 turned out to be the problem on my TV.

Also, I posted some soldering tips over at the Agoraquest.com Television Troubleshooting forum under the ID "BobF". Here's a link if anyone is curious:

http://agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?...page_number=10

These tips are more directed more to those without a lot of soldering experience.

And, as a general observation, the diagnostic blink codes only point you to a potential problem area. Without any board level diagnostics, It's a gamble that replacing any of the ICs will be a fix.

Bob

I successfully repaired my 36XBR400 using the great info from Bob and the same forum above...my user name over there is joup4. I pulled my board, bought all the parts online and the sockets at Radio Shack, and had my local TV repair guy do the soldering. My total bill was $80+ and still have a great functioning TV. Thanks again Bob!!

Joe
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post #39 of 1774 Old 11-30-2007, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slayer714 View Post

I have a similar problem at start-up--the sound come on- screen stays black-
Then it shuts off and the led flashes 5 times. I already had a problem where
the screen looked pinkish-red whenever the background was a light color.
That had something to do with the "green drive" Does anyone have any
experience/ideas about/with this problem. Luckily I've got my old Sony from 1989 that still works like a champ.

You problem is in either 1- video out ic (cx,ch boards) ,2- crt drive ic (b board)
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post #40 of 1774 Old 12-01-2007, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Goetz View Post

Hmmm!!! 5 flashes. Not sure it is the same problem? What I found out the mcz3001d ICs cause 6 or 7 flashes.... IT could still be those ICs, but I would post "5 flashes" problem here or on Agoraquest.com (or search more). I only looked for 6 or 7 flashes, so I can't say it is the say problem, as I have found that 3 flashes are caused by different IC chip and not the mcz3001d (but could be your problem chip? as they seem to be a faulty chip and they now make replacements for them).
And Thank You for your post I am glade to help anyway I can

Good luck and please keep updates as to your findings and/or fixes.

Hi Guys: 5 blinks means video out ic9001-ic9003 maybe faulty (ch,cx boards)
also crt drive ic2801 (b board),also G2 is inproper adjusted.
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post #41 of 1774 Old 12-04-2007, 03:34 AM
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My 40XBR700 just gave me the lights out and the 7 blink 7 blink code.
Have had it since 2002, great picture, beats the heck out of my 50" Panasonic DLP. Will give it a look tomorrow, both Sears, here in Hawaii, and Sony, want nothing to do with it. I agree with all you guys, this is to good a piece of AV equipment to dump into a landfill.

Aloha from the land of 12 and 0, U of H that is
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post #42 of 1774 Old 12-04-2007, 09:48 PM
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Do the XBR 700 and 800 use the same D board?
And, I expect heat for this one, which board is the D board? I can only find one 18 pin chip on my set. Any help would be appreciated, next time you're on Maui, I'll buy you a beer. Would hate to toss this thing, landfills on Maui are packed as it is.

Mahalo
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post #43 of 1774 Old 12-05-2007, 05:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holonalu View Post

Do the XBR 700 and 800 use the same D board?
And, I expect heat for this one, which board is the D board? I can only find one 18 pin chip on my set. Any help would be appreciated, next time you're on Maui, I'll buy you a beer. Would hate to toss this thing, landfills on Maui are packed as it is.

Mahalo

I doubt that they have the exact same part number but the early D boards look very similar. I have schematics for the XBR2 and XBR800 and both D boards have the IC8002 and IC6501, MCZ3001D chips. If it helps, the IC8002 chip is near the flyback transformer, the large module with a high voltage going to the top of the tube, on both. IC6501 is the same exact type of chip.

Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin
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post #44 of 1774 Old 12-05-2007, 09:32 AM
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I owe you a beer!!! Thanks for the info, was pretty much told by the local TV guy that the XBR was pau, as in landfill, will start major surgery on it tomorrow. After all, it's not rocket surgery, or brain science, is it? Now where's my sledgehammer and chainsaw?????? Seriously, this is a set worth saving, best picture resolution I've seen, even though it's pushing 6 years old. Any of you guys think there is a "planned obsolesence" going on here?

Aloha and mahalo
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post #45 of 1774 Old 12-07-2007, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slayer714 View Post

I have a similar problem at start-up--the sound come on- screen stays black-
Then it shuts off and the led flashes 5 times. I already had a problem where
the screen looked pinkish-red whenever the background was a light color.
That had something to do with the "green drive" Does anyone have any
experience/ideas about/with this problem. Luckily I've got my old Sony from 1989 that still works like a champ.

Five blinks; this is a (white balance failure)Video out, IC9001,IC9003,is faulty,(CH,CX Board).CRT drive IC2801,is fault.(B Board)Or G2 is improperly adjusted.
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post #46 of 1774 Old 12-09-2007, 07:01 PM
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When my 36" JVC went out, very similar to what the 40XBR700 is doing, it was the FBT that had gone out. Replacement parts weren't available, (jeez, I wonder why that is?), had to scrap the JVC. Anyways, same symptoms with the Sony, but, I did find, on another site, a really simple way to test both your flyback transformer and your CRT. Turn the set on, hold your arm up to the screen, if your hair is pulled towards the screen, then all is well with the FBT and CRT!!!!!! So, it's gotta be those IC's!!!!!!!!

Aloha
For this test, hairy arms can come in very handy
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post #47 of 1774 Old 12-09-2007, 09:41 PM
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Placed the order for the chips, two of them, $11.98, no biggy. Shipping to Hawaii, UPS ground, (well, they can't really do that, until someone builds a 2400 mile bridge), $30.42!!!! The price you have to pay to live in paradise. Will let you know how the repair goes, already got the skinny red wire off the FBT, had to take the thick one off the top of the CRT. If I can fix this myself, I'll give the TV guy a call, ask him if he needs lessons........

Aloha
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post #48 of 1774 Old 12-19-2007, 08:16 PM
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Chips arrived yesterday, I'm kind of torn between jaucamole or salsa with em!!!! Had no problem getting those five inter-board connectors off, just used my fingers, and gave them the finger a few times!
Will do the desolder and install tomorrow, hope it works, as previously posted, would hate to see this 40XBR in the landfill.

Aloha and melekalikimaka
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post #49 of 1774 Old 12-21-2007, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holonalu View Post

Chips arrived yesterday, I'm kind of torn between jaucamole or salsa with em!!!! Had no problem getting those five inter-board connectors off, just used my fingers, and gave them the finger a few times!
Will do the desolder and install tomorrow, hope it works, as previously posted, would hate to see this 40XBR in the landfill.

Aloha and melekalikimaka

Best of luck with your repair!

If you haven't done a lot of soldering (and desoldering) see the link I provided above with some tips and lessons learned.

Bob
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post #50 of 1774 Old 12-22-2007, 03:29 AM
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Mahalo for the input. Last soldering I did was on a Lafayette build at home stereo amplifier! There isn't much space between the IC pins, but it's definitely worth a try. Just luggin this 300 lb beast to the elevator would be quite an accomplishment..

Aloha and melekalikimaka!!!!!!!!!
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post #51 of 1774 Old 12-22-2007, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holonalu View Post

Mahalo for the input. Last soldering I did was on a Lafayette build at home stereo amplifier! There isn't much space between the IC pins, but it's definitely worth a try. Just luggin this 300 lb beast to the elevator would be quite an accomplishment..

Aloha and melekalikimaka!!!!!!!!!

I had done some soldering also before I attempted my XBR400 repair. What I found to be more of a challenge than I expected was desoldering. That was a bit of a pain. I did have an old and defective PC motherboard stored away and I practiced desoldering some ICs on that. that was a big help. I also found a head mounted magnifying visor to be a big help.

Also, as mentioned above, consider installing 18 pin sockets for the ICs.

Bob
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post #52 of 1774 Old 12-29-2007, 04:02 AM
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Have almost all the pins on the 8002 IC desoldered, a couple just aren't going for it, perhaps I should heat from the IC side and try to get the solder from under the board, with the board on its side. Any thoughts? Thought about getting the RS 45 watt desoldering gun, but that would more than likely be overkill....

Aloha and hauoli makahiki hou!!!!!!
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post #53 of 1774 Old 12-29-2007, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holonalu View Post

Have almost all the pins on the 8002 IC desoldered, a couple just aren't going for it, perhaps I should heat from the IC side and try to get the solder from under the board, with the board on its side. Any thoughts? Thought about getting the RS 45 watt desoldering gun, but that would more than likely be overkill....

Aloha and hauoli makahiki hou!!!!!!

use a good clip cutters or pliers, and cut from the top but be carefull not to damage the board pads, the cutter has to cut very well, do not twist.then as you hit up the pins pull them up with a clippers.
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post #54 of 1774 Old 12-29-2007, 02:36 PM
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use a good clip cutters or pliers, and cut from the top but be carefull not to damage the board pads, the cutter has to cut very well, do not twist.then as you hit up the pins pull them up with a clippers.

That's excellent advice and it's pretty much the exact technique that I used.

I removed the body of the IC by cutting each of the 18 legs individually. I then removed as much solder from the bottom of the board as I could with soldering wick.

Then I grabbed each leg from the top of the board while I heated the solder from the bottom of the board. I used a medical hemostat to grab the pins.

After I had all of the pins removed I test fit the 18 pin socket and removed additional solder with solder wick where needed.

To help avoid overheating the board, I used a temperature controlled soldering station with a 665 to 680 deg. F setting. (I had found that temperature range recommended online.)

Good Luck!

Bob
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post #55 of 1774 Old 12-30-2007, 11:26 PM
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Once again, mahalo for the info. Can't seem to get some of the pins cleared of solder, and that RS desoldering tool definitely does suck, unfortunately it's not the solder. Will get the wick tomorrow, I can't seem to find any kind of cutters that will make it into that very confined space by 8002 and 6501 to cut the IC from the top. Anyways, at this point it's more of a battle of wills than anything else, if it works, great, if it doesn't, I gave it my best shot. And those guys at RS a bit of kala, Hawaiian for money. Sidenote, my Panasonic DMR-ES45V gave up the ghost 3 days past manufacter's warranty, go figure!!

Aloha and haoule makahiki hou, GO UH WARRIORS!!!!!!!
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post #56 of 1774 Old 12-31-2007, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holonalu View Post

Once again, mahalo for the info. Can't seem to get some of the pins cleared of solder, and that RS desoldering tool definitely does suck, unfortunately it's not the solder. Will get the wick tomorrow, I can't seem to find any kind of cutters that will make it into that very confined space by 8002 and 6501 to cut the IC from the top. Anyways, at this point it's more of a battle of wills than anything else, if it works, great, if it doesn't, I gave it my best shot. And those guys at RS a bit of kala, Hawaiian for money. Sidenote, my Panasonic DMR-ES45V gave up the ghost 3 days past manufacter's warranty, go figure!!

Aloha and haoule makahiki hou, GO UH WARRIORS!!!!!!!

Here's a link to the type of "shear cutter" that I used to cut the pins off the IC in my 36XBR400:

http://www.remelectronics.com/Showca...nShowcaseID=15

I also removed the rubber handles from my tool to improve its ability to reach into tight spaces. You should be able to get one of these at Radio Shack.

And I had absolutely no luck with two different types of Radio Shack desoldering tools. I tried a spring loaded suction tool and a rubber bulb suction tool. Soldering wick is the only thing I could get to work.

Good luck!

Bob
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post #57 of 1774 Old 12-31-2007, 08:29 PM
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Bob,
Once again, mahalo nui loa for the input!! The 40XBR700 D board must be a little different layout than yours, I bought those very same cutters at RS, (they know me on a first name basis now, kind of scary), and there is no way on earth that those cutters can get at the IC pins, the IC's are buried to begin with, heat sinks and FBT in the way, so it's down to the desoldering braid, and, as has been mentioned, lots of ho'omanawanui, patience. Any idea as to how long it should take to desolder a pin using the wick?? As I mentioned, the RS solder sucker really did suck, think it's intended for the "big" connections.

Aloha and GO WARRIORS, and, of course, Haouli makahiki hou!!!
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post #58 of 1774 Old 01-01-2008, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holonalu View Post

Bob,
Once again, mahalo nui loa for the input!! The 40XBR700 D board must be a little different layout than yours, I bought those very same cutters at RS, (they know me on a first name basis now, kind of scary), and there is no way on earth that those cutters can get at the IC pins, the IC's are buried to begin with, heat sinks and FBT in the way, so it's down to the desoldering braid, and, as has been mentioned, lots of ho'omanawanui, patience. Any idea as to how long it should take to desolder a pin using the wick?? As I mentioned, the RS solder sucker really did suck, think it's intended for the "big" connections.

Aloha and GO WARRIORS, and, of course, Haouli makahiki hou!!!

You're very welcome.

Here's another tip that might help you with cutting the pins. If you're able to clip the nine pins on one side of the IC, you can then rotate the IC body into a vertical position and clip the remaining nine pins from underneath the body.

Using the soldering wick can be a little time consuming since you need to be careful that you don't overheat the surrounding circuit board. You also need to cut off the end of the wick whenever it gets saturated with solder.

Here's an excerpt from the wonderful "pinball circuit board repair tips" link that I provided within my soldering tips link:

Using Desoldering Braid.
Desoldering braid is flexible copper braid with impregnated flux. Always use "fresh" solder braid. The stuff has a shelf life; the flux can dry and fall out, causing the braid to oxidize and become useless.

To use it, just take a small length of braid, and put it right over the solder joint you want to desolder. Then put a hot and tinned soldering iron on the braid. The braid will heat up, and melt the solder joint below it. The molten solder will be "absorbed" by the braid, leaving the solder pad clean and clear. Do not reuse this section of solder braid; always use a new fresh section for the next solder joint to desolder. Cut the old section off about a 1/4 inch from the absorbed solder (the flux probably melted out of the braid any closer).

Desoldering braid works well, but it requires additional heat to make it work (your soldering iron needs to be hot!) Excessive heat is bad for a circuit board, as it can cause the solder pads and traces to lift from the board. Also adjacent electrical components can be damaged from the heat.


Happy New Year and Best of Luck!

Bob
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post #59 of 1774 Old 01-11-2008, 04:46 PM
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Well Bob, after many attempts to get the 8002 chip cleared, I finally threw in the towel, ordered a new D Board through Sears, cost shipped is about $306.00, I was amazed that they actually still have them in stock. Sooo, I figure the D board which has now become a centerpiece on my diining room table is history, bust out the 15 watt iron, the desoldering braid, and the remnants of 8002 come right out, have already seated the new IC, I'll be laughing my po'o, head, off, if the other one comes out.Go figure............

Aloha and okolemaluna
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post #60 of 1774 Old 01-14-2008, 11:28 AM
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Have a 32hs510 - 6 blinks was the symptom, replaced IC8002 after reading the thread here and agoraquest - seems to have solved them problem. Will let you know if anything else was needed but for now - my thanx to all
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