You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 24 - AVS Forum
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Old 06-29-2009, 05:33 PM - Thread Starter
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OK! I can't load pics to this computer yet
But did see that the 5 pin connector on the A-board you point out in the 1 pic and the ground connections are NOT connected to anything.

Sorry for any miss information I gave earlier, I will be editing that...
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Old 06-29-2009, 05:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertF View Post

You might be able to find a chip puller as part of an inexpensive electronics tool set at Fry's. It might not be available as a standalone item.

Here the kit I got at Radio Shack
p/n 276-1581

can't remember what i paid, but it is called IC Inserter & Extractor Set.
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Old 07-01-2009, 12:04 AM
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Well, here's the latest on my 34XBR960: Yesterday the older of my 2 sons came over. I was demonstrating for him, after it being unplugged etc for a few days, the 6 blinks when I first turn it on, then 7 blinks if I turn it off then on again. Would you believe, when I turned it off after the 6 blinks then on again it worked. Mine not to reason why.....so I'm leaving it on ......forever.......or until some power outage......or it dies......or I accidentally hit the power button.......or trip on the power cord. I'm taking all precautions not to let the latter 2 things happen.

It seems that when things go wrong, they come in multiples. The rest isn't about the TV, but I'm looking for pity, and any advice anyone may have. My aforementioned son came over to see how I was faring due to the fact that my air conditioning went out on Friday. I live in Florida just south of Daytona Beach, so the heat/humidity this time of year is brutal. The repair people told me I have leaks in both the air handler in the garage coils and in the outdoor heat pump coils, $3000 to replace, they say they can't be repaired. Btw, does anyone here know if that is so? It's a Trane 5-ton 11 SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) split system heat pump new when I had this house built in 2002. I think when you're a woman alone, you get skewered by some tradespeople. My husband passed away in 02 while the house was being built.

I don't have the $3K now to replace the coils. They said the leaks appear to be slow ones, so I had them recharge with Freon, 14lbs (but they only charged me for 9lbs) @$42 plus about $165 to come out and defrost, total $524. The next day I got up and it had all leaked out again. Luckily I had 3 window AC units in the garage, 5K, 6K, and 12K BTU's. I couldn't handle the 12 myself, so my son set it up for me, so now at least it's comfortable while I sort out what to do next.

It's a VA mortgage, so the builder had to give us a 10-yr warranty. I checked it, but it says it covers leaks in refrigerant "lines" not coils. I found out the lines are the lines between the outdoor and indoor units.

Since the R22 refrigerant, freon, is being phased out, I'm thinking it would be wise to replace the system with an R410A refrigerant, puron, system. If you get it this or next year, you get a $1500 tax credit on complying systems, minimum 15 SEER for split system heat pumps. Only snag, the repair people said that to keep my house as cool as I like it, 71-72, I need a 5-ton system...they said... (they quoted $9800), and the tax credit only applies on up to 4 tons, or at least not to 5 tons, or no one makes a complying system over 4 tons...they said. I talked to my brother-in-law who lives down the street in a same size house, ~2700 sf, and he's having his guy call me, who quoted him $6000 after $765 in rebates, incl. 10yr parts and labor, for a Carrier 55K BTU (I calculate that to be about 4.6 tons, 12K BTU=1 ton) 16 SEER system that qualifies for the tax credit. And that includes replacing the water damaged base for the air handler. And I believe there is some special financing available to do the system upgrade.

It's always something of course--more pity please.

My garage door opener isn't working, and a friend said not to fool with it cause the spring thingy can kill you or go through the roof. And a few days ago a diamond earring went down the bathtub drain. There's a trap that catches stuff like that, isn't there. Gotta call the plumber.

Oh yeah, one other thing, the concrete slab foundation settling has caused a crack across the front porch, front hall tile, back patio and a little way up the back outside wall zigzagging between the concrete blocks. I checked that home warranty last year for foundation damage, but the cracks have to be 1/8in, and they're not. But in looking for the AC coverage I discovered coverage for concrete slab cracks that rupture the finish flooring material. So that's good.
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Old 07-01-2009, 12:43 AM
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The XBR960 may work for a while, my similar set did for a 2 months until it started failing again. Then, it will need the chips.

The garage door's big coil springs fail with a bang, and the door won't open, that is common, not more than a couple hundred to fix that on my house (2 car garage door). Take a look above the door, the spring around the shaft will be obviously broken if that is the problem. Some doors are different.

Did they check the air filter/air cleaner? My sister's was clogged from the prior owner, that could freeze up the coils. The salt air may corrode the outdoor condenser coils, it doesn't seem old enough for the indoor coils to fail, although in Florida A/C is used much more than here (NY state) and your use of it might be like 20+ years use for us up here. One of my neighbors has a 35 year old system. If your old 55,000 btu system was just cool enough, less may not work for you, unless maybe the air circulation is greater. System design assumes 78 degrees, too hot for me, and if it's truly hot (85-90) here, my 18,000 btu system is inadequate, although "correct", house at 78.
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Old 07-01-2009, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by florida288 View Post

Well, here's the latest on my 34XBR960: Yesterday the older of my 2 sons came over. I was demonstrating for him, after it being unplugged etc for a few days, the 6 blinks when I first turn it on, then 7 blinks if I turn it off then on again. Would you believe, when I turned it off after the 6 blinks then on again it worked. Mine not to reason why.....so I'm leaving it on ......forever.......or until some power outage......or it dies......or I accidentally hit the power button.......or trip on the power cord. I'm taking all precautions not to let the latter 2 things happen.

It seems that when things go wrong, they come in multiples. The rest isn't about the TV, but I'm looking for pity, and any advice anyone may have.......

Florida288,

Here's a link to an excellent "Heating and Air Conditioning" forum where you may get some additional help:

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/hvac/

Here's a general Home Repair forum:

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/repair/

Regarding your 34XBR960, you might just want to check your local Craigslist.org ads as you might be able to find a comparable model for $300 or less. The resale market has really collapsed for large CRTs and you can sometimes find some excellent deals. (I bought a KV-36XBR800 and the custom Sony stand for $180.) Sometimes people even just give them away to get rid of them.

I tried the "never turn it off" method with my KV-36XBR400 and that worked for about two weeks until the remote control power button was pressed by mistake. That's when I installed the MCZ3001D ICs to repair it.

Good luck with everything!

Bob
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Old 07-01-2009, 05:36 PM
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i have a kv*36hs510 is it the same chips
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Old 07-01-2009, 08:15 PM
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jdre,

It was my yard guy, who does some other stuff like pressure washing and gutter cleaning, whom I asked to look at the garage door and who warned my about the big coil spring. That was a couple of months ago, and because I'm a lazy procrastinator I hadn't called anyone yet to fix it and have been leaving my car out on the driveway. When the AC repair guys came, they pulled up the door, and I could see that it in no way involves that spring, so now at least I'm putting my car in the garage out of the hot sun.

It's been so long I forgot exactly what was wrong with the opener, so I just went out and took a look. The bolts that attach the opener arm to the door had ripped out, which I assume is an easy fix. The reason he cautioned me about the spring is that the approx. foot-long 2 by 4 to which the spring/shaft plate is bolted with 2 bolts, one above the other, is no longer perfectly horizontal, left side up a bit. The 2 by 4 is bolted to the concrete block outer wall with one large bolt in the middle, with the spring /shaft attachment about 2 inches to the right, which to me seems an obvious error. Seems to me the 2 by 4 should have been attached with 2 bolts, one on each side of the spring attachment. The upper of the 2 bolts on the spring/shaft plate is a bit dislodged, and there appears to be a slight crack in the 2 by 4 from its bolt to the lower of the 2 spring/shaft bolts. At any rate, I've got my regular handyman coming tomorrow to look at it and also to open the bathtub drain for my earring.

The first thing I checked was the AC filter. There's an indicator on the thermostat to change the filter. It didn't say to change it, but I did anyway, and it made no difference. I usually change it about every 2 months, before it says to. I'm sure this humid somewhat-salty air is what killed the coils prematurely. The "indoor" unit/coils are actually in the garage, which is just as hot and humid as outside. I'm about a mile from the beach, but that's probably close enough. I use AC about 6 months of the year and heat about 2 month.

My experience with AC when I lived in Denver, Virginia, New Jersey was that I could never get it quite as cool as I like it, so when I had this house custom built I let the builder know that I want to be way cool. I went for upgraded insulation, double-glazed windows, attic fan, ceiling fans in every room, and a big brute of an AC system. On the hottest days I could make it as cool as about 68, which I only did on a few occasions when I was doing sweaty work. I think I could have gone even lower but never tried. That's the present 5-ton system with the leaky coils. The 55K BTU (4.6-ton) system is the one that my brother-in-law Joe told me about, and the salesman is coming tomorrow. I'll verify with him that I can at least get down to 71 on the hottest days. I'm getting an estimate from 1 for sure and maybe 2 other Carrier authorized dealers. I'm leaning toward Carrier because they invented puron and the first puron systems years before anyone else had them, 1996. And in reading the info on their website, I see that they also use what they call ArmorCoat, which is a tin plating on the copper coils to prevent corrosion, especially for high humidity and coastal areas.

Another great thing--when Joe got his estimate it must have been at least a few months ago. At that time Carrier had a $125 rebate on that system. They now have an up-to $1325 rebate on their top of the line system. They have 4 levels from low to high--Base, Comfort, Performance and Infinity. Comfort heat pump with a Performance air handler was what Joe was quoted on. I'm thinking about the Infinity; it's 19 SEER and it's a 2-stage compressor; all the others are 1-stage. It'll cost more up front, but will reduce energy consumption and lower the cost for the long run. Almost all are Scroll compressors, which means it works in a circular rather than an up and down piston action. I'm learning so much. The other $640 of the rebate I mentioned previously is from Fl. Power & Light, which may also be higher on the higher priced system, probably a percentage.


Bob,

Thanks for the links to gardenweb.

I may have a good chance of not pressing the remote control power button since I have cable, so I use the cable remote. I would have to first press TV then Power, which, God knows, could happen, but at least it's one extra step of protection. I'm keeping the actual TV remote where I hopefully won't accidentally press anything. I just have to be sure that when the 4 & 5 yr old grandsons are here I keep the remotes out of harm's way. Last year they moved nearby from Colo. and stayed with me for a couple of weeks till they got their own place. The 4 yr old is a very busy boy. Lots of things broken. Who would think he'd go in the garage and throw a ball and break the flourescent light bulb? Of course, who would have thought that when my son, his father, was in Montessori school he'd get a girl's lips "caught" in the pliers?

I hope that when they install the new HVAC system they don't have to shut off all the power. Probably just those circuits. I'm also tempted to get the Carrier generator I saw on their website (having experienced 4-5 days of no power--no AC, spoiled food--during a few hurricanes). If I get that, I bet they have to shut it all off. Hmmm.

Oh well, thank you both for the helpful info.

Kathy R.
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Old 07-02-2009, 09:03 AM
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Well thanks for looking Mark Goetz and jdre. I have the missing wire harness soldered in correctly, but the TV still will not turn on, not even blink. There has to be a fuse or something that is blown. Everything is plugged in. I felt like I was so close. The TV was coming on for a few seconds. Does anyone have a clue what could be wrong??
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Old 07-02-2009, 12:59 PM
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Well no danger of having to shut off the power to the TV to install a generator. For one powerful enough to run ac, fridg, microwave and 1 TV it's about $10,000.

Update on garage door and earring. Handyman got the earring out of drain and fixed door, adjusting and adding 2 extra bolts on the 2 by 4 and charged me only $32.50.
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Old 07-02-2009, 10:01 PM
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My nightmare for my 34xbr910 is over. I took the D-Board out completely (a lot easier once you get used to the tv setup). I then re-soldered everything 100% (i had a bunch of holes in the solder, guess i didnt do as good of a job as i thought i did).

I then turned on the TV and everything was insanely blurry. I adjusted the focus and man it looks spectacular. Tv turns on/off perfectly, picture looks great, and 0 issues. Thanks again for the help everyone. Best free tv ever.
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Old 07-02-2009, 11:52 PM
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somedouche: Congratulations on ending the nightmare the right way! Enjoy!

florida288: I think a 2 stage system is a good idea, if you have humidity with less heat at night, can be less chilly and stay running and dehumidify. That's the type I want to get next, trouble is it's too cool here in NY to run it at all! 65 and damp, love the jet stream..I figure the high capacity will run in daytime on the 90 degree days we aren't getting!
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Old 07-03-2009, 11:43 AM
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jdre: turns out the 2 stage doesn't qualify for the tax credit, one of it's specs is off. According to energystar.gov, has to be 16 SEER, 13EER for regular AC, 15 SEER, 12.5 EER, and 8.5 HSPF (heating seasonal performance factor) for heat pumps. When Joe's guy, who was going to come yesterday, called me from the er, cause he broke his foot, to reschedule for today, I asked him about the Infinity (the 2 stage). I think it was the HSPF he said was off, but I'll find out today for sure. I don't understand cause the Carrier website says it's 9.5 HSPF, and 14.1 EER, 19 SEER.

I had another guy come yesterday also. Gave me a price on same system that's $200 higher, but with $110 larger rebate.

I'll need to finance it and found out that I can add it to the streamline VA mortgage rate reduction (from 6% to 4.5% 30 yr) refinance I'm about to do anyway. Normally a non-vet surviving spouse can't get cash out when doing that, but can for energy efficient improvements.
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Old 07-03-2009, 11:49 PM
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Hopefully, the HSPF will be appropriate. I think you are getting back in charge of your property! Back on topic, is the Sony still on? Happy 4th to all at AVS forum!
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Old 07-04-2009, 03:45 AM
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Sony's still going strong, thanks
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Old 07-06-2009, 03:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brentnall11 View Post

Well thanks for looking Mark Goetz and jdre. I have the missing wire harness soldered in correctly, but the TV still will not turn on, not even blink. There has to be a fuse or something that is blown. Everything is plugged in. I felt like I was so close. The TV was coming on for a few seconds. Does anyone have a clue what could be wrong??

OK! Just so we get this straight......
What exactly does it do? Sounds, blinks from standby light, etc...

It sounds like possibly something else was disconnected or tweaked out of range and maybe damaged beyond repair

Thanks
And congrats to the successful repair SomeDouche
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Old 07-06-2009, 03:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by florida288 View Post

Well, here's the latest on my 34XBR960: Yesterday the older of my 2 sons came over. I was demonstrating for him, after it being unplugged etc for a few days, the 6 blinks when I first turn it on, then 7 blinks if I turn it off then on again. Would you believe, when I turned it off after the 6 blinks then on again it worked. Mine not to reason why.....so I'm leaving it on ......forever.......or until some power outage......or it dies......or I accidentally hit the power button.......or trip on the power cord. I'm taking all precautions not to let the latter 2 things happen.

First I say replace the chips and if that doesn't work try something else, just leave a post on what it is doing after repair.
And I know how you feel If it wasn't for bad luck I have no luck at all. lol
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Old 07-08-2009, 01:27 AM
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Mark, eventually I probably will have to replace the chips, but, since it'll be quite a challenge for me, I'm going to take the course of least resistance and put it off till I have to
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Old 07-09-2009, 10:05 PM
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Hi Everyone
I am in Australia & after searching the internet I found this site & post about sony TVs Standby light blinking & hope you can help me as Sony help is non existent.
My TV is about 18 months old & is a Bravia KDL46XBR & about 3 weeks ago it wouldnt turn on & the red light was flashing 13 times between breaks.
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Old 07-17-2009, 10:58 AM
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I want to say thank you to everyone that has helped me fix my sony xbr960 tv. Replacing the 2 chips fixed my tv.

I have a friend of mine that has a kv-36fs120. his tv will sometimes work and
other times, it will not turn on at all. Told him of the flash codes. He is getting a flash code of 9. What is a 9 flash code and what would it take to fix it. He is not ready to get rid of that tv yet, the tv is only 4 years old.

Any information is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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Old 07-17-2009, 06:58 PM
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I am looking for part number 1-785-879-11. It is a connector for the wire that goes to the flyback. It is not available at Sony or Partstore.com. I read somewhere where a person soldered it directly to the pcb. I would like to be able to disconnect it quickly and not have to unsolder the wire. Have any of you found any kind of substitution for that disconnect?

Thanks..........
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Old 07-18-2009, 11:14 PM
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If that is the white wire to CN9009, I'd go ahead and solder it in. The CX or CH board (CRT board) unplugs from the tube and the ground wires have release tabs (squeeze) and other connectors unplug, and you can remove the D board with the CX/CH board together.
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Old 07-20-2009, 02:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pafc64 View Post

Hi Everyone
I am in Australia & after searching the internet I found this site & post about sony TVs Standby light blinking & hope you can help me as Sony help is non existent.
My TV is about 18 months old & is a Bravia KDL46XBR & about 3 weeks ago it wouldnt turn on & the red light was flashing 13 times between breaks.

You may want to post in the LCD section, just because this is for CRT's. Sorry don't mean to sound rude. But you probably get a better response there.
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Old 07-20-2009, 02:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobC3 View Post

I want to say thank you to everyone that has helped me fix my sony xbr960 tv. Replacing the 2 chips fixed my tv.

I have a friend of mine that has a kv-36fs120. his tv will sometimes work and
other times, it will not turn on at all. Told him of the flash codes. He is getting a flash code of 9. What is a 9 flash code and what would it take to fix it. He is not ready to get rid of that tv yet, the tv is only 4 years old.

Any information is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Hmmmmm....
My manual does not show "9" (only shows to 7 blinks). Hopefully JDRE or someone else has your manual to look it up. Good luck!!

BobC3... Congratulations another success !!!!!!
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Old 07-20-2009, 09:21 PM
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Blink codes only up to 5 in the 32FS120 service manual. They will repeat if it's really a blink code. 1,2,3,4,5, pause, 1,2,3,4,5, pause.
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Old 07-21-2009, 05:58 AM
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Oh. ok. I will have him double check again on how many flashes he has. thank you.
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Old 07-21-2009, 08:21 PM
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Well I have one that went 6 flashes. I put in the 2 new chips and still get the same codes.

I checked all of the solder connections from the chip to their repective landings based on the IC information posted in this thread and I do not feel it is a soldering issue.

I broke down and ordered a new D board from partstore.com but word to the wise... THEY ARE RIPOFF ARTISTS! During checkout the nailed me for a 40 dollar oversized box charge. I also selected next day air shipping only to find out that it will ship next day air "whenever they bother" to ship it- even though their site claimed it was in stock......BUYER BEWARE!!!

One question I have is this....How long should the stinger be out of the largest wire from the FBT? I am afraid that this may have broken short on me when I gave it the healthy pull to remove the D board for soldering.

Thanks in advance and I will post the results of the new board install as soon as they grace me with its presence.....

moe
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Old 07-22-2009, 08:17 PM
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Do you mean the Red wire that goes to CRT?
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by incognito_moe View Post

Well I have one that went 6 flashes. I put in the 2 new chips and still get the same codes.

I checked all of the solder connections from the chip to their repective landings based on the IC information posted in this thread and I do not feel it is a soldering issue.

I broke down and ordered a new D board from partstore.com but word to the wise... THEY ARE RIPOFF ARTISTS! During checkout the nailed me for a 40 dollar oversized box charge. I also selected next day air shipping only to find out that it will ship next day air "whenever they bother" to ship it- even though their site claimed it was in stock......BUYER BEWARE!!!

One question I have is this....How long should the stinger be out of the largest wire from the FBT? I am afraid that this may have broken short on me when I gave it the healthy pull to remove the D board for soldering.

Thanks in advance and I will post the results of the new board install as soon as they grace me with its presence.....

moe

It should only be 1/4 inch long of bare wire. If you are talking about the anode lead to the picture tube.
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:34 PM
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Im looking for some info on what to look for on a 34XBR960. The tv turns on, no blinking light and no picture, sound only. I dont see the 6 volts to light the tube on the CRT board and im not sure how far to go with it or if its a simple fix. Any suggestions? Thanks, John
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Old 07-24-2009, 11:21 AM
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If you don't already have it the schematic is here: Sony schematics. CN5003 H1 is the heater supply from the DZ board. IC5006, D5014,R5095,R5096,T5001 are parts that supply heater. Does the TV have high voltage (hear the static?). If not, could be bad IC8002 MCZ3001DB, or check for bad (open) R8051 to R8056 which are all in series to Pin 1 IC8002.
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