You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 1800 Old 01-14-2008, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by holonalu View Post

Well Bob, after many attempts to get the 8002 chip cleared, I finally threw in the towel, ordered a new D Board through Sears, cost shipped is about $306.00, I was amazed that they actually still have them in stock. Sooo, I figure the D board which has now become a centerpiece on my diining room table is history, bust out the 15 watt iron, the desoldering braid, and the remnants of 8002 come right out, have already seated the new IC, I'll be laughing my po'o, head, off, if the other one comes out.Go figure............

Aloha and okolemaluna

Wow. I'm also surprised that Sears had D-Boards for sale. Be sure to post an update after you install the board!

Bob
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post #62 of 1800 Old 01-14-2008, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bluejay View Post

Have a 32hs510 - 6 blinks was the symptom, replaced IC8002 after reading the thread here and agoraquest - seems to have solved them problem. Will let you know if anything else was needed but for now - my thanx to all


Congratulations on the successful repair!

Did you use 18 pin sockets?

Did you remove the D-Board for your soldering?

Did you use solder wick for desoldering?

Any other comments on your repair?

Bob
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post #63 of 1800 Old 01-14-2008, 06:27 PM
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Aloha Bob, the saga continues,
Sears called this morning, the D board is no longer available, they have credited my credit card, so it's back to the desoldering again, about 9 pins to go on the 1605, what a pain, AND A CHALLENGE!!!!!!!!!!!! Why do the big guys, Sony, Panasonic, Samsung not support their products with after market replacement parts????????????????? Kind of makes you wonder......... Hopefully I haven't fried the motherboard.

Aloha and okolemaluna
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post #64 of 1800 Old 01-15-2008, 06:09 AM
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Did you use 18 pin sockets? Yes

Did you remove the D-Board for your soldering? Partially - I have remounted the tv in an a/v wall unit. Built a new mounting frame to fit the cabinet.

Did you use solder wick for desoldering? No - I tried but from past work, I had a good solder sucker and a good temp controlled soldering iron. I just resoldered the joint before sucking.

Any other comments on your repair? I had schematics from when I bought the tv. As far as experience, I used to integrate oem monitors kits into our product line so I have built prototypes and a lot of experience with chip removal. I used TSM for getting ICs (prompt, no problems) - bought 2 ICs have used 1. I initially thought I had blown the DVI interface card as I felt a spark when redoing my rf cabling to my cable box. I disconnected the board and the 6 blinks went away for about 2 days. It came back and I went searching. So far everything is going fine.
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post #65 of 1800 Old 01-15-2008, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by holonalu View Post

Aloha Bob, the saga continues,
Sears called this morning, the D board is no longer available, they have credited my credit card, so it's back to the desoldering again, about 9 pins to go on the 1605, what a pain, AND A CHALLENGE!!!!!!!!!!!! Why do the big guys, Sony, Panasonic, Samsung not support their products with after market replacement parts????????????????? Kind of makes you wonder......... Hopefully I haven't fried the motherboard.

Aloha and okolemaluna

I'm sorry to read that Sears no longer carries the D-Board.

Last year, when my XBR400 developed problems, Sony still offered D-Boards for $243 through a return/exchange program. You would ship them your current, non-working, D-Board and they would send you a repaired one.

If you want to check on that option call the Sony Direct Accessories and Parts group (DPAC):

http://servicesales.sel.sony.com/eco.../web/index.jsp

You want to call since the online system doesn't always lists all the available parts. (The toll-free phone number is listed on the above link.)

Another option is to send your board off to an outfit like Tristatemodule.com:

http://tristatemodule.com/

They quoted me $150 plus shipping both ways for a D-Board repair.

But I would press on with your repair attempt first.

Good Luck!

Bob
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post #66 of 1800 Old 01-15-2008, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by bluejay View Post

Did you use 18 pin sockets? Yes

Did you remove the D-Board for your soldering? Partially - I have remounted the tv in an a/v wall unit. Built a new mounting frame to fit the cabinet.

Did you use solder wick for desoldering? No - I tried but from past work, I had a good solder sucker and a good temp controlled soldering iron. I just resoldered the joint before sucking.

Any other comments on your repair? I had schematics from when I bought the tv. As far as experience, I used to integrate oem monitors kits into our product line so I have built prototypes and a lot of experience with chip removal. I used TSM for getting ICs (prompt, no problems) - bought 2 ICs have used 1. I initially thought I had blown the DVI interface card as I felt a spark when redoing my rf cabling to my cable box. I disconnected the board and the 6 blinks went away for about 2 days. It came back and I went searching. So far everything is going fine.

Thanks for all of the detailed info!

I had absolutely no luck with two different types of solder sucker tools. But I didn't resolder the joints first. I'll keep that in mind in the future.
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post #67 of 1800 Old 01-15-2008, 02:14 PM
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Robert,
In using the solder sucker, I first resolder the ICs legs - so I see it liquify. Then I solder the tip of the iron with a small bead of solder, place the solder sucker in position, apply the tip of the iron to the leg and release the solder sucker. In the case of the kv32hs510 board, the holes are only partially soldered through the board and make it easier to extract than thru the board plated holes which sometimes whick the solder all the way up the leg of the chip. The key is releaseing the solder sucker while the solder is liquid and not having it jerk away while sucking.
Hope this helps.
Jay
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post #68 of 1800 Old 01-15-2008, 04:21 PM
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Mahalo guys, am putting down the Sledge Omatic for the time being, and back to the desoldering. Think I have about 10 pins or so to clear on the 1650, and Bob, you're clue as to the braid going "stale", is right on the mark..

Aloha and okolemaluna
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post #69 of 1800 Old 01-16-2008, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluejay View Post

Robert,
In using the solder sucker, I first resolder the ICs legs - so I see it liquify. Then I solder the tip of the iron with a small bead of solder, place the solder sucker in position, apply the tip of the iron to the leg and release the solder sucker. In the case of the kv32hs510 board, the holes are only partially soldered through the board and make it easier to extract than thru the board plated holes which sometimes whick the solder all the way up the leg of the chip. The key is releaseing the solder sucker while the solder is liquid and not having it jerk away while sucking.
Hope this helps.
Jay

Jay,

Thanks for the excellent description of your technique.

Bob
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post #70 of 1800 Old 01-16-2008, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holonalu View Post

Mahalo guys, am putting down the Sledge Omatic for the time being, and back to the desoldering. Think I have about 10 pins or so to clear on the 1650, and Bob, you're clue as to the braid going "stale", is right on the mark..

Aloha and okolemaluna

Again, good luck! Post an update when you get a chance.

Bob
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post #71 of 1800 Old 01-16-2008, 07:24 PM
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Down to 5 pins on the 1650, found the easiest way to get them out is to oversolder, as mentioned, from underneath the D board, then give them a little shove with a safety pin while the solder is still molten, and clean up with the desoldering braid. Of course, I'll know later this evening if it all works out right.

Aloha and okolemaluna
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post #72 of 1800 Old 01-16-2008, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holonalu View Post

Down to 5 pins on the 1650, found the easiest way to get them out is to oversolder, as mentioned, from underneath the D board, then give them a little shove with a safety pin while the solder is still molten, and clean up with the desoldering braid. Of course, I'll know later this evening if it all works out right.

Aloha and okolemaluna

You're getting close!

Be careful with the safety pin to avoid lifting any of the circuit traces on the board surface.
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post #73 of 1800 Old 01-17-2008, 05:36 PM
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I have a Sony KV-32HS500 (DA-4 chassis) with the 7 blink problem where the TV won't turn on. It appears my model is very similar to the XBR's and I have read about others who fixed the KV-32HS500 by replacing these chips. I am waiting for my six MCZ3001DB chips to arrive from eBay ($28 incl. shipping), and I plan to replace the 6501 and/or the 8002 on the D board. I plan to use 18-pin sockets. I have chosen to do the repair with the TV face down, which neatly exposes the D board (see picture). To get at 6501, I gently cut the gray plastic support with a knife. I'm ready to go for chip replacement, but I'm wondering if I should do one or the other chip first, or just do both. From what I've read here, sometimes a new 6501 made the TV work, and sometimes a new 8002 made it work. I'm thinking replacing both would be best, BUT I have only a little experience soldering, and I don't want to have my unskilled hands poking around with a hot iron any more than I have to. Thoughts?
LL

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post #74 of 1800 Old 01-17-2008, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Danielus View Post

I have a Sony KV-32HS500 (DA-4 chassis) with the 7 blink problem where the TV won't turn on. It appears my model is very similar to the XBR's and I have read about others who fixed the KV-32HS500 by replacing these chips. I am waiting for my six MCZ3001DB chips to arrive from eBay ($28 incl. shipping), and I plan to replace the 6501 and/or the 8002 on the D board. I plan to use 18-pin sockets. I have chosen to do the repair with the TV face down, which neatly exposes the D board (see picture). To get at 6501, I gently cut the gray plastic support with a knife. I'm ready to go for chip replacement, but I'm wondering if I should do one or the other chip first, or just do both. From what I've read here, sometimes a new 6501 made the TV work, and sometimes a new 8002 made it work. I'm thinking replacing both would be best, BUT I have only a little experience soldering, and I don't want to have my unskilled hands poking around with a hot iron any more than I have to. Thoughts?

Last year I had read more online reports of IC8002 being the problem so I replaced that one first. But, as luck would have it, the problem turned out to be with IC6501. Without any board level diagnostics, a coin toss will probably work as well as anything for picking one over the other.

Be sure to read my soldering tips in the link provided above. It's directed towards people without a lot of soldering experience. Be prepared to find the desoldering task the real challenge.

Good Luck!

Bob
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post #75 of 1800 Old 01-17-2008, 08:54 PM
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Well, got the IC's soldered in, everything back together, and nothing, get 5 blinks now rather than 7, think this thing is history.

Aloha and okolemaluna
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post #76 of 1800 Old 01-18-2008, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by holonalu View Post

Well, got the IC's soldered in, everything back together, and nothing, get 5 blinks now rather than 7, think this thing is history.

Aloha and okolemaluna

Sorry to hear the news.

Did you use 18 pin sockets? If so, make sure that the ICs are fully seated and installed in the proper orientation. And if you have extra MCZ3001D ICs you could swap those with the installed ICs in the event one of your new ICs is defective. (That's certainly a longshot but it's an easy check if you used sockets.)

You might also want to double-check all of the D-Board connectors to be certain everything is hooked up securely. You might even want to disconnect and reconnect every connector.

If none of that works you could still send your D-Board out for repair to a place like tristatemodule.com. Plan on about $150 + shipping costs in both directions. (Of course, you would be gambling that the problem is on the D-Board.)

Bob
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post #77 of 1800 Old 01-18-2008, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by holonalu View Post

Well, got the IC's soldered in, everything back together, and nothing, get 5 blinks now rather than 7, think this thing is history.

Aloha and okolemaluna

A few questions. Did you inspect the board, after removal of the old ICs, for damage to the traces, etc. ? Did you make sure the orientation of the new ICs matched the old ones? Did you inspect your soldering for shorts from pin to pin, etc. ?

Good Luck

Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin
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post #78 of 1800 Old 01-18-2008, 10:13 AM
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A few questions. Did you inspect the board, after removal of the old ICs, for damage to the traces, etc. ? Did you make sure the orientation of the new ICs matched the old ones? Did you inspect your soldering for shorts from pin to pin, etc. ?

Good Luck

That's great advice.

And, along the same lines, it might be worthwhile to re-touch all the solder joints. Sometimes, even a solid looking joint can have a continuity problem.
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post #79 of 1800 Old 01-18-2008, 03:55 PM
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I removed the D board again, held it up to a bright light, and saw where I had missed soldering a few pins on the IC. Will give it another go, check for oversoldering, etc. Regardless, Aloha nui to all you guys for the support and advice, if I can't fix it I will send it out. Sony has yet to return my phone call???? What a great support system, they should log on here and learn a thing or two................And I can now remove that D board in about 3 minutes, piece of cake, (just need the proper sized sledge hammer, I personally prefer a 12#), actually 3 to 5 minutes is all it takes to remove it, I can't imagine trying to work on it with it still in the TV.

Aloha and okolemaluna
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post #80 of 1800 Old 01-18-2008, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by holonalu View Post

I removed the D board again, held it up to a bright light, and saw where I had missed soldering a few pins on the IC. Will give it another go, check for oversoldering, etc. Regardless, Aloha nui to all you guys for the support and advice, if I can't fix it I will send it out. Sony has yet to return my phone call???? What a great support system, they should log on here and learn a thing or two................And I can now remove that D board in about 3 minutes, piece of cake, (just need the proper sized sledge hammer, I personally prefer a 12#), actually 3 to 5 minutes is all it takes to remove it, I can't imagine trying to work on it with it still in the TV.

Aloha and okolemaluna

The bright light trick is a good one. I used that when I was desoldering to be sure that I had completely cleared the pin holes of solder.
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post #81 of 1800 Old 01-20-2008, 09:11 PM
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Well, I fixed my Sony KV-32HS500 seven-blink problem three days ago and it has been working perfectly ever since! I started by replacing the 8002 chip and fortunately that was the one that caused the problem. I spent $28 for 6 MCZ3001DB chips from eBay, and $23 at Radio Shack for a 25 watt soldering iron, solder (0.032", 60/40 rosin core as recommended), desoldering braid, two 18-pin sockets, a practice printed circuit board, two more sockets for practice, and an electronics air duster can. Desoldering was not as difficult as I had anticipated - that desoldering braid works great! I was glad I practiced first with the (inexpensive) circuit board and sockets. I soldered them in, desoldered them with the braid, then soldered them again to simulate what I'd need to do on the TV. It really helped me know how long to hold the iron at the joint, and how much solder to use. Thanks a million to RobertF for his soldering tips and to everyone for all the information about their experiences with these great Sony TV's.

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post #82 of 1800 Old 01-22-2008, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Danielus View Post

Well, I fixed my Sony KV-32HS500 seven-blink problem three days ago and it has been working perfectly ever since! I started by replacing the 8002 chip and fortunately that was the one that caused the problem. I spent $28 for 6 MCZ3001DB chips from eBay, and $23 at Radio Shack for a 25 watt soldering iron, solder (0.032", 60/40 rosin core as recommended), desoldering braid, two 18-pin sockets, a practice printed circuit board, two more sockets for practice, and an electronics air duster can. Desoldering was not as difficult as I had anticipated - that desoldering braid works great! I was glad I practiced first with the (inexpensive) circuit board and sockets. I soldered them in, desoldered them with the braid, then soldered them again to simulate what I'd need to do on the TV. It really helped me know how long to hold the iron at the joint, and how much solder to use. Thanks a million to RobertF for his soldering tips and to everyone for all the information about their experiences with these great Sony TV's.

Congratulations on the successful repair!

It's great that you were able to select the faulty IC first. From a purely statistical standpoint, some of us have to get that right.

And I'm glad the soldering tips were helpful.

Bob
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post #83 of 1800 Old 01-23-2008, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by RobertF View Post

Sorry to hear the news.

Did you use 18 pin sockets? If so, make sure that the ICs are fully seated and installed in the proper orientation. And if you have extra MCZ3001D ICs you could swap those with the installed ICs in the event one of your new ICs is defective. (That's certainly a longshot but it's an easy check if you used sockets.)

You might also want to double-check all of the D-Board connectors to be certain everything is hooked up securely. You might even want to disconnect and reconnect every connector.

If none of that works you could still send your D-Board out for repair to a place like tristatemodule.com. Plan on about $150 + shipping costs in both directions. (Of course, you would be gambling that the problem is on the D-Board.)

Bob


KV36hs500= five blinks means, "White balance failure" (not balanced) and the probable cause locations listed are as follows:

1. Video OUT (IC9001-IC9003) is faulty (C board).11Q/N4==IC9001


2. CRT drive (IC2801) is faulty (A board)
3. G2 is improperly adjusted.










TDA6111Q/N4==IC9001
RED-VIDEO-OUT

TDA6111Q/N4=IC9002
GREEN-VIDEO-OUT

TDA6111Q/N4=IC9003
BLUE-VIDEO-OUT
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post #84 of 1800 Old 02-23-2008, 07:20 PM
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Ok, what if I have a 32HS510 that just won't turn on... no noise, no lights... nothing.

It did make the "noise" when I went to turn it on, then nothing since.
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post #85 of 1800 Old 02-23-2008, 07:33 PM
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Ok, what if I have a 32HS510 that just won't turn on... no noise, no lights... nothing.

It did make the "noise" when I went to turn it on, then nothing since.

Did you try unplugging the tv from the wall's power outlet?

If you did not, unplug the tv from the wall's power outlet, wait around 5 min, then plug the tv back into the socket and try to turn it on again.
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post #86 of 1800 Old 02-23-2008, 08:22 PM
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Tried both... no luck. Still no lights or noises.
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post #87 of 1800 Old 02-28-2008, 11:24 AM
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For anyone who cares... It did end being the fuse.
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post #88 of 1800 Old 02-28-2008, 12:34 PM
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For anyone who cares... It did end being the fuse.

Thanks for the update!

Whare was the fuse located?

Was finding a replacement difficult?
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post #89 of 1800 Old 03-04-2008, 06:24 AM
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Fuse was located right next to where power cord comes into the chassis.
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post #90 of 1800 Old 03-04-2008, 07:11 AM
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Fuse was located right next to where power cord comes into the chassis.

Thanks for the information!
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