You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 5 - AVS Forum
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post #121 of 1768 Old 05-14-2008, 10:02 AM
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So what does it mean if when I hit the power button the TV makes a sound (hard to describe, kinda like bwop) and the red light flashes 3 times and then the picture appears about 3 seconds later? It's done it for over a year - always the exact same and it always works and never fails to power on or display a picture. Just thought the sound and the 3 blinks were strange
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post #122 of 1768 Old 05-14-2008, 05:37 PM
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romadant posted:

So what does it mean if when I hit the power button the TV makes a sound (hard to describe, kinda like bwop) and the red light flashes 3 times and then the picture appears about 3 seconds later? It's done it for over a year - always the exact same and it always works and never fails to power on or display a picture. Just thought the sound and the 3 blinks were strange.
-------------------------------------------------------
eclipsedave sez:

Not kinda. You sir are correct: It was "BWOP!" LOL! That's the exact same sound mine would make, except mine would not fully power up and I had to fix it. Posts #108 -111.
-Dave
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post #123 of 1768 Old 05-15-2008, 09:08 AM
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LOL! I'm glad I'm not the only one hearing the BWOP And now that I double checked last night it's 6 blinks. So, I guess I need to fix this. Or, I could just get the parts and keep the on standby for if/when it finally stops powering up. It BWOPs, blinks, and the pic always apears about 3 seconds later so I kinda feel like just waiting for it to fully go before digging into it...

...then again, it will probably die right when I'm watching something really importain so maybe I should make the fix now and be done with it!

Thanks for the great posts & pics!
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post #124 of 1768 Old 05-15-2008, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by romadant View Post

LOL! I'm glad I'm not the only one hearing the BWOP And now that I double checked last night it's 6 blinks. So, I guess I need to fix this. Or, I could just get the parts and keep the on standby for if/when it finally stops powering up. It BWOPs, blinks, and the pic always apears about 3 seconds later so I kinda feel like just waiting for it to fully go before digging into it...

...then again, it will probably die right when I'm watching something really importain so maybe I should make the fix now and be done with it!

I think the "BWOP" noise you are both describing is just the automatic degaussing system. If so, that's normal and it's nothing to be concerned about.

And for romadant, I wouldn't attempt to make any repairs as long as your TV is always starting. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
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post #125 of 1768 Old 05-16-2008, 04:21 AM
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Is there anywhere on-line with instruction on how to dissassemble a 34xbr910 so I can remove the D-board so I can replace the two ICs that are known to go bad?
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post #126 of 1768 Old 05-16-2008, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertF View Post

I think the "BWOP" noise you are both describing is just the automatic degaussing system. If so, that's normal and it's nothing to be concerned about.

And for romadant, I wouldn't attempt to make any repairs as long as your TV is always starting. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Good advice... and I'm going to take it. I won't mess with it until it becomes a real problem. The 3 second delay doesn't seem to matter much. Thanks!
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post #127 of 1768 Old 05-16-2008, 05:44 PM
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UGH!! There's a screw holding the d-board in, way at the back, and since I can't see where it is, I can't get the screw out!

Is there a schematic somewhere I can look at? Is there a way for me to pull the board out in the "service position" I've occasionally heard about? I've had to unplug a bunch of cables to get relatively decent access to the board, and I'm thinking there HAS to be an easier way. It's going to be a bitch to plug some of those cables back in, given that some are plugged into the very back of the board.
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post #128 of 1768 Old 05-18-2008, 01:17 PM
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Well, I'm happy to say that my wonderful tv has it's great picture again! I left the television on the stand that I got with the tv and was able to access one of the chips underneath. I installed a socket first then plugged the new chip in. I figured I'd give it a try since I was going to have to take the tv off of the stand to access the second chip and walah! Now I have an extra chip and an 18 pin socket for future use. Thank you all for your help!
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post #129 of 1768 Old 05-18-2008, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by mxrider View Post

Well, I'm happy to say that my wonderful tv has it's great picture again! I left the television on the stand that I got with the tv and was able to access one of the chips underneath. I installed a socket first then plugged the new chip in. I figured I'd give it a try since I was going to have to take the tv off of the stand to access the second chip and walah! Now I have an extra chip and an 18 pin socket for future use. Thank you all for your help!

Congratulations on your successful repair!

One great thing about installing the socket is that, if that IC should ever fail, installing a replacement will be very easy.
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post #130 of 1768 Old 05-22-2008, 06:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadowknight View Post

UGH!! There's a screw holding the d-board in, way at the back, and since I can't see where it is, I can't get the screw out!

Is there a schematic somewhere I can look at? Is there a way for me to pull the board out in the "service position" I've occasionally heard about? I've had to unplug a bunch of cables to get relatively decent access to the board, and I'm thinking there HAS to be an easier way. It's going to be a bitch to plug some of those cables back in, given that some are plugged into the very back of the board.

Actually there is NO screws holding the board chassis in the frame, it is clips...
hmmmmmm I don't know if this will help?
I believe with these TVs that they are all the same...
LL
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post #131 of 1768 Old 05-22-2008, 07:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadowknight View Post

Actually, I found posts 114-115 kind of confusing. I know it's quoting from the manual verbatim, and the writers of the original document just weren't clear.

Sorry about that shadowknight.... It is out of the manual. Just to basically show what Sony says what the blinks mean... Now as to what we have been covering here (for the most part), is that when your TV has certain blinks and won't come on. Is it is probably the MCZ3001D chip(s), but in no way is a sure thing .........

I hope I didn't discourage you or anyone reading those post and am sorry for that.

Thanks to everyone here


PS: true. it may not be word for word, and that could have been from my cut and paste, too. In next post I will attach a copy of those pages and maybe it will make more sense?
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post #132 of 1768 Old 05-22-2008, 07:57 PM - Thread Starter
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I hope this explains it better.... Before I just tried to paste it here and maybe that was a bad idea
Sorry! for any confusion.
LL
LL
LL
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post #133 of 1768 Old 05-23-2008, 08:50 PM
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I have a 36xbr800. I was getting the 7 flashes, I replaced the 2 mcz3001d chips on the "D" board with mcz3001db chips. I noticed that some of the pins were not soldered to the board on the original chips. So I marked those non soldered pins and did NOT solder them with the new chips. After I put it back together, the TV now gives me three flahes from the LED. I read on here or somewhere that 3 flashes means just the one mcz3001db is malfunctioning. Does anyone know if im getting better or worse in the tv repair situation?
ALSO does anyone have a close up picture of the two chip soldered to the board so I can see what pins the solder bubbles make contact with other areas on the "D" board.

Any help would be appreciated.
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post #134 of 1768 Old 05-26-2008, 03:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuff View Post

I have a 36xbr800. I was getting the 7 flashes, I replaced the 2 mcz3001d chips on the "D" board with mcz3001db chips. I noticed that some of the pins were not soldered to the board on the original chips. So I marked those non soldered pins and did NOT solder them with the new chips. After I put it back together, the TV now gives me three flahes from the LED. I read on here or somewhere that 3 flashes means just the one mcz3001db is malfunctioning. Does anyone know if im getting better or worse in the tv repair situation?
ALSO does anyone have a close up picture of the two chip soldered to the board so I can see what pins the solder bubbles make contact with other areas on the "D" board.

Any help would be appreciated.

Scuff, you can just solder them all. cause they weren't on original is just because they do nothing. I had soldered all pins on mine and makes no difference. As for it giving you 3 flashes instead of 7, probably means soldering is bad or 1 or both chips are bad (would be my best guess).

Did you save old ICs? Did you buy any extra ICs?
If you say yes (either question), then replace those until you have same problem (original 7 flashes) or is fixed.
Putting old ICs back in, could just indicate bad soldering or bad IC.
Replacing one at a time (with new), indicates that one of your new replacements is bad (it happens, could get a bad IC from factory or part supplier).

Good luck


I almost forgot to mention there is another mcz3001d chip on the A-board. I have read somewhere before that it is another possible cause for errors
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post #135 of 1768 Old 05-26-2008, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Goetz View Post

Scuff, you can just solder them all. cause they weren't on original is just because they do nothing. I had soldered all pins on mine and makes no difference.

I almost forgot to mention there is another mcz3001d chip on the A-board. I have read somewhere before that it is another possible cause for errors

I agree. Solder all of the pins.

And yes, there is a third MCZ3001D IC on the A-Board of some models. I know that there's one on the A-Board of my KV-36XBR400. A technician at a local authorized Sony service center once told me that 3rd IC is sometimes the cause of the power up problems. He also said that some unsuccessful repairs are the result of this IC being missed as a potential problem. (IC6501 on the D-Board was the culprit on my set.)
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post #136 of 1768 Old 05-27-2008, 07:32 AM
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Thank you for the information provided in this thread. My KV-36XBR400 had the seven flashes problem and a quick search on Google took me to this thread.

I ordered four chips from TSM (two replacements for future), four sockets from Radio Shack (four incase I messed up the soldering of the sockets), and some .036 60/40 solder. All total I think my bill + shipping was ~$33. That beats the pants off of the local repair guy that wanted $50 to come out to look at it. When I told him what the problem probably was, based on information on this site, I was told that IF (with his emphases heavily on IF) this is the problem, it would cost between $250-$400 depending on what else he finds.

A little history on me, which may provide hope to those that are nervous about doing this:
I have never soldered in my life. I have never desoldered in my life. While I have assembled my own computers before, all I did was plug things into sockets on the MB, never have I actually "built" the components. This whole thing was new to me. However after reading this entire thread (at least three times), I figured I would give it a shot. I took the photos that eclipsedave provided along with the information provided by RobertF, printed it out, ordered the parts, and went to it
...
...
...
ok that was a lie. I ACTUALLY went down to my local Radio Shack and purchased a breadboard and a few small components (two resistors, two 8 pin sockets, and one 8 pin chip). I then spent an hour or so each night for four nights soldering and desoldering the parts until I understood what needed to be done. The "test" parts costs me roughly $20 but it was well worth it. When I actually was in the TV and desoldering, I just kept thinking back to what I had done in practice. A funny thing: During practice I found that the solder pump worked much better than the wick....however during the actual desoldering on the TV I found the wick to work 1000% better. I had four total pins that would not cleanly desolder, but once again falling back to this thread (and the pinball machine article RobertF/Bob wrote), I remembered the suggestion to resolder those and try again...sure enough they came right out. I found the soldering part to be much much easier than the desoldering.

Some tips for folks like me:
1) Place the TV on its face. I tried to place it on its top but it would not balance, plus im not sure this is good for the TV.
2) If your TV is like mine, you will need to not only cut the bar of plastic that eclipsedave showed in his picture, but you will also need to cut away a little of the base "plate" (plastic). I could not get my board to move out enough to not cut this base plate, but a quick cut with the high speed grinder took care of that.
3) Practice on either some old components you have laying around (like an old modem), or purchase a breadboard and some cheap components from Radio Shack. The practice here will help, lord knows it helped me.
4) READ THIS ENTIRE THREAD and print out eclipsedave's pictures.
5) READ THIS ENTIRE THREAD and read RobertF's pinball repair PDF.
6) Read #4 and #5 again.
7) Remember to ground yourself before you handle the board or any of the chips.
8) Take your time, esp when desoldering. If one wont come clean, stop, let the part/board cool. Resolder the pin, stop, let the part/board cool. Then desolder again.
9) THIS IS A GOOD ONE I THINK : If you are going to use sockets like I did, make sure you "fit" the chips into the sockets BEFORE you solder the sockets into place. I am sure all of the pros on this forum are giggling as they read this, but I did not "fit" my first chip into the socket and spent probably 10 minutes trying to get it to fit into the socket. Finally I took it and fitted it into the other socket (that I had not soldered yet) and what do you know, it went right in after that.

Anyway, thanks again for the awesome information. Another 250lb TV is working instead of making its way to a dump somewhere.


**EDIT** I forgot to mention that I just used my dads old 15w solder iron, worked like a champ. I wanted to get a nice temp controlled one, but no more soldering than I plan to do I figured the borrowed 15w one would be fine .
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post #137 of 1768 Old 05-27-2008, 08:02 AM
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waduncan,

Congratulations on your successful repair! And thank you for taking the time to detail your experience. I am sure that will help others with their repair attempts.

And I should note that I did not write that excellent pinball repair/soldering guide. I just provided a link to it.

Here's the link again:

http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/

I think the author's name is Clay Harrell.

Bob
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post #138 of 1768 Old 05-30-2008, 10:26 AM
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Guys,
I have read thru the post but am not sure what the solution is to the TV problem I have

I have a Sony kv36xbr400 tv that does the following

When left overnight not connected to outlet, the tv comes on for 15 minutes. I have video and sound and then it powers off automatically. Trying to power it up again brings the tv up with 5 blinks for few seconds and then goes off again. I kept trying to bring it up and same thing keeps happening.

If left overnight again, works for few minutes.

I had a tech come over and he said that there were no faults listed in the diagnostics. He believes it is on the d board but can't tell what it is. I dropped the tv over to his shop and he called stating that he could not tell what was wrong. The tech believes something is telling the computer to shutoff the TV to avoid damage to some part.

I am just looking for any advice in case someone has seen this before.

Thanks
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post #139 of 1768 Old 05-30-2008, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bldrnr View Post

Guys,
I have read thru the post but am not sure what the solution is to the TV problem I have

I have a Sony kv36xbr400 tv that does the following

When left overnight not connected to outlet, the tv comes on for 15 minutes. I have video and sound and then it powers off automatically. Trying to power it up again brings the tv up with 5 blinks for few seconds and then goes off again. I kept trying to bring it up and same thing keeps happening.

If left overnight again, works for few minutes.

I had a tech come over and he said that there were no faults listed in the diagnostics. He believes it is on the d board but can't tell what it is. I dropped the tv over to his shop and he called stating that he could not tell what was wrong. The tech believes something is telling the computer to shutoff the TV to avoid damage to some part.

I am just looking for any advice in case someone has seen this before.

Thanks

So has the tech given up on a repair? Is it an authorized Sony repair shop? Is he familiar with the fairly common MCZ3001D failures.

What many repair shops attempt is to replace the D-Board but the cost for that would probably exceed the cost of a working replacement TV of the same model.

Is the TV still at the repair shop? If so, you might want to have the two MCZ3001D ICs on the D-Board replaced and see if that solves the problem. Of course, check on the total cost of that repair before proceeding. The ICs themselves can be found for $5 or $6 each online.

Or you could attempt to replace those yourself.

Good luck!

Bob
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post #140 of 1768 Old 05-30-2008, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertF View Post

So has the tech given up on a repair? Is it an authorized Sony repair shop? Is he familiar with the fairly common MCZ3001D failures.

What many repair shops attempt is to replace the D-Board but the cost for that would probably exceed the cost of a working replacement TV of the same model.

Is the TV still at the repair shop? If so, you might want to have the two MCZ3001D ICs on the D-Board replaced and see if that solves the problem. Of course, check on the total cost of that repair before proceeding. The ICs themselves can be found for $5 or $6 each online.

Or you could attempt to replace those yourself.

Good luck!

Bob

Bob,
Thanks for the quick reply. The tech already replaced the MCZ3001D and that did not solve the problem. He has basically given up on the set since he does not see the problem. I was just trying to save the set.

Like I said no diagnostic errors.


Pushkar
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post #141 of 1768 Old 05-30-2008, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by bldrnr View Post

Bob,
Thanks for the quick reply. The tech already replaced the MCZ3001D and that did not solve the problem. He has basically given up on the set since he does not see the problem. I was just trying to save the set.

Like I said no diagnostic errors.


Pushkar

Did he replace both of the D-Board MCZ3001D ICs?

And there's also a third one on the A-Board that a repair tech at an authorized Sony repair center once told me could also cause power up problems. HE said that sometimes that one is missed as a possible cause.

If the tech is fairly convinced that the problem is on the D-Board, you could send it off to an outfit like tristatemodule.com: http://tristatemodule.com/

But that might not be worth the cost. About a year and a half ago they quoted me $150 to repair the D-Board for a KV-36XBR400. And you have to pay shipping both ways.
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post #142 of 1768 Old 06-02-2008, 01:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Thank You RobertF

Yes! The MCZ3001D on the A-board can very well be the cause. As we are all finding out it is a faulty IC (High failure rate), the replacement is MCZ3001DB...
I would ask him to try replacing that one first, before giving up on it


Good luck with it Hope everything goes well, bldrnr.
Also, You weren't really clear (I think) with the blinks.... Does it blink 5 times after it turns off on you? And do be sure it repeats, it should repeat endlessly (or until you turn off via remote/power button or is unplugged). It will blink when you turn it on, it is just indicating it is on but is warming up and degaussing the tube.
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post #143 of 1768 Old 06-03-2008, 06:58 PM
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I forgot how the cables were connected in the inside

any one has pictures of where the connectors and cables goes?

thanks
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post #144 of 1768 Old 06-06-2008, 11:05 AM
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Well, that was fun. I just had a tv repairman come by to look at my set. Apparently, the D-board wasn't seated properly, so a hairline crack was causing the problems with the picture not showing up. Now, I did try to take the board out a few weeks ago, so it's possible I cracked it when trying (and failing) to remove the board. On the other hand, I couldn't even get the TV to turn on anymore even before that point, and once he tapped on the board while the TV was on, the picture would show up, so it's possible that the ICs didn't go bad, or maybe they went bad at the same time the stress fracture started causing problems with the board. Someone had definetly opened that set up before I bought it, as the cabinet was missing a bunch of screws. Anyway, it'll take 3-4 weeks for them to send the board out to get repaired and back in my set
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post #145 of 1768 Old 06-09-2008, 05:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Shadowknight, Sorry to hear that, thats a first for me Did you move it recently?

quetzalandia, Which cables? All of them or just the d-board cables/connectors?
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post #146 of 1768 Old 06-09-2008, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Goetz View Post

Shadowknight, Sorry to hear that, thats a first for me Did you move it recently?

Nope. Really, it worked fine for 3-4 months after I bought it in December, but the repair guy said that if there was a stress crack from someone messing with the TV before I bought it, it may have just taken months for the damage to hit a critical point where it wouldn't power on anymore. I know someone had messed with it before due to all the missing screws that's supposed to hold the plastic cover to the frame around the tube.

I guess the moral of the story is to avoid pawn shops like the plague when it comes to buying a TV.
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post #147 of 1768 Old 06-09-2008, 10:56 PM
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In reply to my May 23 post on the Sony 36xbr800, I got sick of messing with the 3 blinker and took my chassis to a local repair shop. It cost me 150.00, got it back in less than a week, put it back in the tv in about 15 minutes, reconnected the two cut wires I cut on the Flyback, and it fired right up. So im out about 180 counting the parts I had ordered when I tried to fix it myself the first time. I guess the solder connections were bad and it needed two new resistors also. If this tv didnt have such a great picture for Halo 2 and 3, and Call of Duty 4 I would have junked it, or sold it to one of you guys, LOL.
Thanks for the help though.

If HD CRT's have a better picture than LCD's why did they become extinct? I was thinking the weight issues of CRT's and the desire to hang 'em on the wall. Any other ideas?
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post #148 of 1768 Old 06-10-2008, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuff View Post

In reply to my May 23 post on the Sony 36xbr800, I got sick of messing with the 3 blinker and took my chassis to a local repair shop. It cost me 150.00, got it back in less than a week, put it back in the tv in about 15 minutes, reconnected the two cut wires I cut on the Flyback, and it fired right up. So im out about 180 counting the parts I had ordered when I tried to fix it myself the first time. I guess the solder connections were bad and it needed two new resistors also. If this tv didnt have such a great picture for Halo 2 and 3, and Call of Duty 4 I would have junked it, or sold it to one of you guys, LOL.
Thanks for the help though.

If HD CRT's have a better picture than LCD's why did they become extinct? I was thinking the weight issues of CRT's and the desire to hang 'em on the wall. Any other ideas?

$150 is pretty reasonable for a successful repair. Congratulations on that.

I think screen size is the big driver behind the success of the new displays. CRTs maxed out at about 40" while plasmas, LCDs, DLPs can be much larger.
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post #149 of 1768 Old 06-12-2008, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Goetz View Post

Shadowknight, Sorry to hear that, thats a first for me Did you move it recently?

quetzalandia, Which cables? All of them or just the d-board cables/connectors?

Yo Mark,
Quetzalandia emailed me for other pics of my repair and he last emailed stating that he was able to fix his set! I think it's so cool. You helped me, which helped him, etc...The beat goes on! Another TV ripped from the clutches of the landfill
-Dave
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post #150 of 1768 Old 06-12-2008, 03:57 PM
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Hi guys, I have a KV-HR32M31 76cm CRT (I think it's the same as the XBR910) that decided to go on the blink the other day. My wife was playing an Xbox game and then turned it off as normal, when I went to turn it back on again in a couple of hours, the green LED would blink 10 times, I could hear the station (I wanted to watch TV) and then it turned itself off and then showed 10 red blinks. So it was first 10 green, then 10 red.

When I left it unplugged overnight, it turned on the next morning perfectly. If I turn it off with the remote it won't turn on again in a few hours. Now if I turn it off with the main switch, it does come on again even with the power plug left plugged into the mains.

I've got part of the service manual here which basically only covers the service menu codes, but it does show that 10 blinks could be either the FBT (hope to God it's not that), IC8002 (which is the MCZ3001DB) or two transistors Q8013, 8014 which are both the same K2842.

I've gone over the D board resoldering any possible dry solder joints on these components but it didn't seem to have helped.

I've ordered two replacement MCZ3001DB's and two K2842's from Sony Aust and they'll be here next week. I'm confident that the IC is the fault after reading many posts about these chips failing.

I used to fix TV's so this repair should be a no-brainer

Any other things that could possibly cause this problem?
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