Just another general thanks for this thread´s info.
Got my KV-34XBR800(service manual link attached)
fixed right up. I do have a moderate amount of experience, and electronics knowledge however. And in my case just replacing the IC´s wouldn't have been enough.
Try to come on and fail.
Then gives 6 blink diagnostic.
When it failed completely, the picture would shrink and then expand in split second on high white scenes from darker ones(Originally it didn't have this issue when it first cut out upon trying to turn it on and gave the diagnostic flashes).
As in a previous post 1 of the 2 big caps was toast in addition to at least 1 of the IC´s having issues. So pulled the board, replaced both IC´s, and both caps. I tested the fusible resistors with my multimeter, which were fine.
The caps might have been my own fault however, as I used the diagnostic mode to get the TV to power up, and left it on until it finally failed completely a couple weeks later. Having of course bookmarked this, the service manual for my unit, and the place to purchase the replacement parts beforehand. =)
3 days now without any issues.
General steps done:
1. Unplug, waiting many hours to hopefully discharge everything.
2. Pull/unscrew back cover on tv stand.
3. Slid boards back, pulled all connectors aside from FBT and connecting motherboard leads going to the D board(and any in the way of moving the entire bottom panel out far enough to remove the D board).
4. Discharging anode against grounding strap using an insulated screwdriver with a wire lead wrapped around it at the mid-point, then wrapping the other end to the grounding strap on the TV. The service manual warns against this (screwdriver under the boot), but so long as you're careful, using no real force, and just barely making contact with the anode, slipping the screwdriver just barely under to make contact I don't see any harm being done. I'd personally rather risk damaging the specialized coat on the rubber boot and the anode itself, than getting hit with 35kilovolts no matter how low the amperage behind it. To give a gauge of what this would be like, think 3 stun guns at the same time for a split second. It can, and has, killed by stopping the heart.
5. Following service manual guide to pull anode(Large red 35.5kV lead).
6. Clipped the smaller red and white FBT leads. Then pulled the motherboard connectors up.
7. Unscrewed, then pulled the D board completely.
8. Using the screwdriver/wire again, this time with a pipe I knew had an earth ground, touched the anode, and cap hot points just to be sure anything that could FUBAR me was discharged before putting this on the bench.
9. Then of course de-soldered using a spring loaded solder sucker for the pins and the bladed caps(capacitors) and a heat controlled soldering station at around 630 or so.
10. Slapped in the 18pin IC sockets, soldered with silver bearing solder(.015 diameter).
11. Soldered in the 2 replacement caps using standard rosin core solder.
12. Put the IC´s in noting the dimple, which indicates pin 1.
13. Did my best to verify what I did, noting polarities for caps and orientation for the IC's, as well as their pin alignment.
14. Striped small bit from each end of the FBT smaller red, and white leads, primed both ends with standard solder again.
15. Put heat-shrink tubing over one end of each wire.
16. Replaced D board back into unit and re-hooked everything, including the anode.
17. Soldered the 2 cut leads back together using portable soldering iron, covered soldered section with the tubing, shrank with lighter and re-affixed all cords to where they were before, roughly.
18. Gave both sections a once-over, and slid the bottom section back into place.
19. Put cover back on with just a few screws, just in case.
20. Plugged it back in, and bingo...came right on right away.
I like fixing things just once, so I went though the extra trouble. The one cap stood out, as they´re intentionally scored at their top to expand out if they get enough strain. I instantly noted 1 of mine having a significant bulge on it (they should be flat, in most cases even slightly concave). Also note the replacement caps are usually not the bladed end ones, so note the polarity of where you are placing them and of course de-solder the standard pin-through points for them. I say this as they will not have the exact same orientation using the standard pin holes from the bladed ones.
Of course this was in addition to cleaning everything out once I had the unit properly discharged, as I haven´t cleaned it in 9 years. It was quite disgusting. Vacuum, then compressed air for everything smaller.
This cost me $40 total to fix, and about 3 hours worth of my time used total I think. Only that high because I wanted to make sure to do it right and get everything back to as near as when I bought it as possible.
No color, tint, or focus issues. Looks better now than it did years previous, as I´m sure at least 1 of those IC´s has been failing for some time.
1. Board pulled, components out (IC´s and caps). Note the 2 factory capacitors out on my desk, they don´t look abnormal from this photo or even at a distance, but if you put/run your finger along the top the one is significantly raised:
2. Back of board, new caps in, IC's blank(still waiting on chips at the time).
3. IC's in. Sorry, not very easy to see, but all are properly soldered. Bad Iphone shot.
4. And the completed photo's, and a parting shot of it back in the unit, sorry it was too dark in the room for a decent iphone picture.