You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 51 - AVS Forum
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post #1501 of 1807 Old 08-01-2011, 06:22 PM
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Sony Trinitron WEGA RLOD Repair Guide is done!

Original Post
http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=458437#p458437

Posted on this Forum
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1366567

I'll get it converted to the AVS Forum layout and post it here later on.

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post #1502 of 1807 Old 08-02-2011, 10:50 AM
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lol, this post ^ is taking my job money away (TV Tech).
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post #1503 of 1807 Old 08-02-2011, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homerging View Post

Something that should be mentioned in your guide is that different Sony TVs have different blink codes. The Eastern Hemisphere market KV-HR and KV-HX models give 10 blinks for a D board error. Those TVs often contained MCZ3001DBs. 6 blinks from those models instead indicates an A board error.

I found this on another website:

What is a switching FET? If one of the two D board chips is more failure prone it would make sense to try replacing that one first.

It probably would not be beneficial to remove a working MCZ3001DB except for the purpose of installing a socket for the sake of making it more user-serviceable should the chip fail at a later date. Even replacing a working plain D may be undesirable to those unused to soldering

To be honest I have doubts I could be able to pull off the soldering thing even after following this guide

Anyone should try the repair, a small twenty dollar investment. One can practice first on an old PCB. With all the work involved to get to the repair stage, its better to just go ahead and change both chips, adding sockets in case of a future fail.

A good point about the Eastern TVs, I quoted you back at the Guide.

Anyone else have suggestions on my Guide, please let me know.
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post #1504 of 1807 Old 08-02-2011, 12:22 PM
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Lost a quotation... something went wrong there.
What I found on another website:
Quote:


There are three in the average Sony TV, one on the so-called A-Board and 2 on the D-Board. Usually the problem is caused by a faulty one on the D-Board near the two large switching FET's. In this case, replacing this will fix the problem.

I notice lcaillo cautions against using sockets or replacing one of the two chips at a time on page 13. I suppose different risks have to be balanced depending on the circumstance.
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post #1505 of 1807 Old 08-02-2011, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homerging View Post

Lost a quotation... something went wrong there.
What I found on another website:

I notice lcaillo cautions against using sockets or replacing one of the two chips at a time on page 13. I suppose different risks have to be balanced depending on the circumstance.

Strange how your last Reply disappeared, its quoted in my previous Reply.

Even if the blink code may point to something else, replacing the chips is only a twenty dollar investment, might fix the TV. With all the work to get to the chips, might as well change both while the PCB is exposed. Sockets are the way to go, a possible second repair years later of desoldering and soldering may damage the PCB.
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post #1506 of 1807 Old 08-03-2011, 02:07 AM
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Well, thanks for all the good advice here.

I had a KD-34XBR960 flashing seven times. Bought a couple sockets and chips and replaced them both without too much problem. Powered the TV back on worked like a champ. Then put the cover back on, put the TV on its stand, sat back to relax and watch my work and it wouldn't turn on again.

Could one of the new chips be burnt out already from another issue, or do you think something came loose when I put it back together. I'm getting the seven flashes again.

Anyone run into this?
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post #1507 of 1807 Old 08-03-2011, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bzpilot View Post

Well, thanks for all the good advice here.

I had a KD-34XBR960 flashing seven times. Bought a couple sockets and chips and replaced them both without too much problem. Powered the TV back on worked like a champ. Then put the cover back on, put the TV on its stand, sat back to relax and watch my work and it wouldn't turn on again.

Could one of the new chips be burnt out already from another issue, or do you think something came loose when I put it back together. I'm getting the seven flashes again.

Anyone run into this?

Something must have came loose. Perhaps one of the chips was not seated all the way or the chip socket has a marginal solder connection on one of the legs.

Before you push down on the chip, look at it closely with a magnifying glass. See if the legs line up, also check all the solder connections underneath. If everything checks out, maybe pull the chips and exchange with each other. Maybe one chip went bad and you might get lucky by switching them, be sure of the notch orientation.

I'm not sure if there is more strain on the chips when powering up a warm TV that has residual current in the CRT. I make it a habit not to turn on my WEGA again until it is off for a couple of hours.
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post #1508 of 1807 Old 08-04-2011, 11:50 AM
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I wanted to say thanks to all who have contributed here with this info. I have the same 6-7 blink won't power on problem with my 34HS420 and I believe I will attempt to replace the IC's on the D-board. Local authorized dealer wanted $90 for in home diagnostic that is applied to any repairs. I wantd a ballpark to replace the IC's since I am pretty certain this is the issue after everything I read here and elsewhere on the net. He said IF that was the problem, it would be $180 labor and the chips are $30 a piece, "but don't believe everything you read on the internet". I told him I can order the circuits for $7 a piece and he said those would be junk and I should only use certified Sony replacement parts. I told him that the IC's Sony built these with are junk, as evidenced by the hundreds of people on the internet who had to replace them to get their TV working. (I learned later on this thread that the ones Sony uses are Shindengen also.) I called a few other places and they all wanted ~ $200 or so 'IF that's what the problem is', and most I would have to take it to them.

I have never soldered anything so I was reluctant to DIY this, so I called TSM about refurbishing my D-board and they no longer do that. Then I thought about buying another D-board. TSM gave me part # A-1302-939-A, and I found those online for around $100, but I don't think the part # is right and I can't find the part# for my D-board. I also thought about taking my D-board off and taking it to someone to do the soldering, but after reading issues here, I am just as reluctant to mess with the wires to the FBT as I am to do the soldering. (The guy that got it done for $50 was a bargain - with 32 unsolders and solders, that's $1.56 each!). I DIY a lot of stuff, but I have a lot of respect for electricity, so I avoid getting into too much on that. I also have a lot of respect for the law (Murphy's Law), as I know things can go wrong or be a lot more difficult than they first appear. I also don't have the steadiest hand and find tiny things hard to work on, but the more I read this thread and saw soldering virgins having success, I started thinking I could do this. I hate to sound chauvinist, but when I read that a female soldering virgin did it, I decided that's it - I'm doing it! I am asking around for friends who may have experience at this first - if not I'll do it alone.
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post #1509 of 1807 Old 08-04-2011, 11:52 AM
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I was thinking that folks on here who have done this and are comfortable with it could do a search for 'Sony TV' in the 'Free Stuff' section of their local Craigslist from time to time. You could get another TV for yourself or to sell and keep them out of the landfill.
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post #1510 of 1807 Old 08-04-2011, 12:10 PM
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Questions:

*Does anyone know where I can get the service manual or schematics for the 34HS420?

**I plan to pull the D-board out while leaving FBT wires connected - what is the best way to secure the board to make it easier to work on.

***TSM site for the MCZ3001DB says:

Quote:


-Replacement of the following parts along with the MCZ3001DB IC's is recommended

-.1 Ohm 1/2W Fusible resistor (2 per board). Order 120293361
-1200uF 250V Electrolytic capacitor (2 per board). Order 1200UF250V

I only saw one guy mention this and the advice was don't mess with it. Has anyone replaced these as well?



.1OHM1/2W Sony Fusible Resistor


Electrolytic Capacitor, 105ยบ, 45mm x 30mm
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post #1511 of 1807 Old 08-04-2011, 02:35 PM
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That capacitor looks like it is just a plug in deal. If anyone can confirm that, I will definitely replace it - they are only $6.88.
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post #1512 of 1807 Old 08-04-2011, 03:06 PM
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Quote:


The Eastern Hemisphere market KV-HR and KV-HX models give 10 blinks for a D board error. Those TVs often contained MCZ3001DBs. 6 blinks from those models instead indicates an A board error.

I should update this with what I've found stated on other forums.

There are two MCZ3001D* chips on the D board in the HR and HX, at IC8002 and IC6400. The IC8002 MCZ3001D* will give 10 blinks when faulty, but a faulty MCZ3001D* at IC6400 may yield 6 blinks when faulty, falsely implying the A board is the problem. It looks like that for the HR/HX it is usually a single-chip fix.

Allegedly, IC8002 and IC6400 utilise different portions of the MCZ3001D* chip meaning an MCZ3001D* chip in IC8002 gone bad may still work in IC6400 (equivalent to IC6501 as it seems to be on the XBRs). That is, it is sometimes possible to 'fix' the problem by merely swapping the chips. I'm sure this would be a bad idea unless you intended to socket both ICs anyway, and even then....

One technician stated with respect to the IC8002:
"I always setup screen pot to cathode voltages after replacement of IC. If this is set wrong it can give the same error and shut down."
Could anybody expand on this? Anything I try to search about this only turns up marijana.
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post #1513 of 1807 Old 08-04-2011, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiminIndy View Post

That capacitor looks like it is just a plug in deal. If anyone can confirm that, I will definitely replace it - they are only $6.88.

I plan to pull the D-board out while leaving FBT wires connected - what is the best way to secure the board to make it easier to work on.

The capacitors all solder in, not plug in like ancient tubes. The chips are all you really need, a very high sucess rate is soldered and desolderewd correctly.

Leave the video input black plastic panel installed, the D Board can be leaned against that.

I made a GUIDE, linked at the top of this page.

Quote:
Originally Posted by homerging View Post

I should update this with what I've found stated on other forums.

There are two MCZ3001D* chips on the D board in the HR/X - the IC8002 MCZ will give 10 blinks when faulty but a faulty IC6400 MCZ may yield 6 blinks when faulty, falsely implying the A board is the problem.

Allegedly, IC8002 and IC6400 utilise different portions of the MCZ3001D* chip meaning an MCZ3001D* chip in IC8002 gone bad may still work in IC6400. That is, it is sometimes possible to 'fix' the problem by merely swapping the chips. I'm sure this would be a bad idea unless you intended to socket both ICs anyway, and even then....

One technician stated with respect to the IC8002:
"I always setup screen pot to cathode voltages after replacement of IC. If this is set wrong it can give the same error and shut down."
Could anybody expand on this? Anything I try to search about this only turns up marijuana.

I think the technician is pointing out a precaution of setting the voltages back to whatever is the idea voltage matched to a new tube at the factory. Potentiometers might be a little off as they age, but a two year old CRT might have different voltage requirements vs new. Even if there is a POT you can adjust, DON"T TOUCH IT. A little low or high can be a disaster, maybe frying other components. Just change the old chips with new sockets and new B chips.

In bzpilot's one time running with replacement socketed chips then then fail TV, swapping the chips might do the trick. Worth a try while waiting for two more to arrive in the mail.
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post #1514 of 1807 Old 08-04-2011, 04:03 PM
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CRTGAMER: would it be worth spending an extra couple of $ on getting professional IC sockets with machined pins?

There is an interesting post by Scott_S on dtvforum.info about how he was told by a Sony tech that a slowly failing FBT triggers the IC8002 fault. I don't know if this forum allows direct forum-links.
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post #1515 of 1807 Old 08-04-2011, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homerging View Post

CRTGAMER: would it be worth spending an extra couple of $ on getting professional IC sockets with machined pins?

There is an interesting post by Scott_S on dtvforum.info about how he was told by a Sony tech that a slowly failing FBT triggers the IC8002 fault. I don't know if this forum allows direct forum-links.

I don't see a need, its not like the chips are going to be swapped on a continual basis. At least we all hope not.

As far as the questions of if sockets having resistance of the amp draw, look at the legs on the chips, small just like the sockets. The 59 cent 18 pin IC Sockets from Radio Shack are just fine and can be bought the same day.

Curious of the link, please post. I don't think the mods would mind posting it. Any information shared is a good thing.
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post #1516 of 1807 Old 08-04-2011, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRTGAMER View Post

Leave the video input black plastic panel installed, the D Board can be leaned against that.

I made a GUIDE, linked at the top of this page.


I saw the guide - thanks, excellent resource! I was just looking for a way to have it more secure to work on than just leaning against something. Ideally, it looks like it would be nice to have it secured upside down when working on the solder points, but I don't know if the FBT wires will allow that when still attached.

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post #1517 of 1807 Old 08-05-2011, 09:57 PM
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I found a free, online service manual for 8 of the models in the DX-1A chassis family:

KV-32HS20 US
KV-36HS20 US
KV-36HS20H Hawaii
KV-32XBR450 US
KV-32XBR450 CND
KV-36XBR450 US
KV-36XBR450 CND
KV-36XBR450H Hawaii

http://www.scribd.com/doc/3997084/So...0-Chassis-DX1A

I still haven't found a free one for mine, the KV-34HS420

Enjoy!
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post #1518 of 1807 Old 08-06-2011, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiminIndy View Post

I saw the guide - thanks, excellent resource! I was just looking for a way to have it more secure to work on than just leaning against something. Ideally, it looks like it would be nice to have it secured upside down when working on the solder points, but I don't know if the FBT wires will allow that when still attached.

I suppose you could make some sort of jig to hold the PCB upright, but really not necessary. Best to have the entire TV prestaged on a sturdy table off the floor. I got lucky having the fireplace step which raised the TV off the floor, allowing me to sit while doing the solder work. Leaning the PCB against the input panel actually works pretty well and is stable when the bottom is placed using the gray plastic frame as a stop at the base. The leaning PCB is at a great angle for desoldering and the board can easily be spun around to pull the chip.


Quote:
Originally Posted by homerging View Post

CRTGAMER, It may be a good idea to update your guide with the extra 10 / 6 HR/HX blink information so people don't go up a blind A board alley.

The thread is at:
www.dtvforum . info/index.php?showtopic=76322&st=0

TiminIndy: antistatic bags may come in useful. Perhaps pegs too if there's enough open space on the PCB.

The link just goes to the root menu of the forum, couldn't find the exact post with a search either. Can you post the exact thread link?

I updated my guide concerning the 10 blink / 6 blink codes of Euro TVs. I also posted in the guide to replace the chips, even if the blinks might allude to something else. At under twenty bucks with a good success rate, best to try the chip replacement first.
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post #1519 of 1807 Old 08-06-2011, 03:34 PM
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The link works but try this one http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?s...post&p=1330152

The HR and HX were for the Asian, Australasian and African market. The European market was given the HQ series without support for HD. I don't think the HQs sold very well.
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post #1520 of 1807 Old 08-13-2011, 11:26 AM
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Still Ticking
Happy to report that it has been over three weeks and my HD CRT WEGA is still working beautiful! I was concerned about another component on the PCB causing the chips to fail. Looks like it is just the chips that went bad, maybe a power surge when turning on? Perhaps the revised B chips are more durable?

Under Twenty Bucks
I went ahead and ordered a backup pair, just in case the chips ever fail again. Good that I installed the 18 pin sockets, it will be an easy fix the next go around. Best to get the chips while they are inexpensive and available. A phone order gave my a better shipping rate.
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post #1521 of 1807 Old 08-13-2011, 10:20 PM
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any ideas?

My sony just started this a few days ago................... shut off while I fell asleep in front of it. Thought I might have sat on the remote, turned it back on. shut off again, this time I noticed the led blinking. Counted seven [ pretty sure, It was about 3am, lol] happened again last night while someone else was watching it.[ this time 6 blinks] So I spent almost the entire day on the puter to figure this out. Read all the posts here, but my problem is reverse, It will turn on, it just decides to shut off after being on for so long. I think yesterday it was on for less time than the day before. Self diagnosis-#2,3,4,5-"0" #6&7 had a "one" each, and 101 had "0". 6 is "low B" 7 is "H Stop".

So, could these two chips be causing this? { I'm guessing here as this is a 6-7 blink problem}

Wow, you people are brave taking these monsters apart! can't say I'd do the same. Love the picture, but I won't be able to get anyone to move this around again, LM*O..............

tvaddicted
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post #1522 of 1807 Old 08-13-2011, 10:47 PM
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I can't think of a better place to post this, as we all know what a great picture these crt's have, but if I have no choice except to move on, what would you consider buying next?

all input greatly appreciated.

ps, my tv is on a good 8 hours a day, that was one of the reasons I bought this crt, I thought it would last....

I have a 12 yr old jvc still chugging along, go figure! Problem is the Sony is so superior...
[sigh]

thanks!

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post #1523 of 1807 Old 08-14-2011, 10:08 AM
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I got all my soldering supplies at RS and ordered my IC's from TSM, and I happened to get the ideal practice board! I have a pseudo-homeless guy who comes around who collects scrap for recycle. He breaks down a lot of electronics and sells the parts to recyclers and he had a box full of circuit boards in his truck. He gave me the one on top which had several IC's for me to practice on. I knew it was similar to what I would be working on because I recognized the flyback transformer, but after cleaning it up I discovered it is a Sony 'D Board'!! It has 5 IC's on it: a 56 pin, 42 pin, 22 pin, 16 pin, & a 14 pin. Not sure what model it is from, but it says 1-665-887-14, F601T4AH, & 250VT4AH. If I get my outdoor chores done in time today I will start practicing tonight since IC's will be here in a few days.

If anybody wants it after I'm done with it, you can PayPal me the cost of a USPS Priority flat rate box and I'll send it to you.
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post #1524 of 1807 Old 08-14-2011, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvaddicted View Post

any ideas?

My sony just started this a few days ago................... shut off while I fell asleep in front of it. Thought I might have sat on the remote, turned it back on. shut off again, this time I noticed the led blinking. Counted seven [ pretty sure, It was about 3am, lol] happened again last night while someone else was watching it.[ this time 6 blinks] So I spent almost the entire day on the puter to figure this out. Read all the posts here, but my problem is reverse, It will turn on, it just decides to shut off after being on for so long. I think yesterday it was on for less time than the day before. Self diagnosis-#2,3,4,5-"0" #6&7 had a "one" each, and 101 had "0". 6 is "low B" 7 is "H Stop".

So, could these two chips be causing this? { I'm guessing here as this is a 6-7 blink problem}

Wow, you people are brave taking these monsters apart! can't say I'd do the same. Love the picture, but I won't be able to get anyone to move this around again, LM*O..............

UNDER TWENTY DOLLAR INVESTMENT
Almost certain its the chips. I see you have a follow up Reply asking about a comparable replacement newer non CRT. Don't give up, there is a chance the repair would work. Click my Guide at the top for a complete walkthru. It may seem overwhelming but really just a straight forward repair and a steady hand at soldering.
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post #1525 of 1807 Old 08-14-2011, 04:06 PM
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Thanks crt, I read all your posts on this, and it's not the $ for parts, really, it is the weight issue. [ don't think I could get anyone to move this around for me]

As for working on it, your gui is great, but I would not attempt this myself.

If I can find a plasma I like, I would give this to anyone who would want to repair it as it is in great working shape aside from the blink problem. What a shame two cheap connectors brought this crt to it's knees. Sony quality took a nose dive imo.

tvaddicted
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post #1526 of 1807 Old 08-14-2011, 06:55 PM
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Hi all,
I've been reading this thread from the beginning for hours... but here is
my story..
Original problem of only starting after multiple attempts, 6 or 7 blinks.
Finally, won't startup at all, but still getting the 7 red blinks.
I removed the D board, ordered the 2 chips and sockets from ebay.
unsoldered the chips with a good de-soldering iron.
Carefully soldered in the sockets, inserted new chips, installed board
and reconnected everything.
Symptom: humm, click, 3 red blinks and clicks off.

If I put the two original DB chips back in the sockets, I get 6 blinks and off.
I put the 2 new chips back in, and it's back to the 3 red blinks.
I reseated all connecters and chips, but still 3 blinks.
thanks in advance, Greg

Greg
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post #1527 of 1807 Old 08-14-2011, 10:41 PM
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I haven't posted in awhile so I'll chime in. I've done this repair on 5 sets with some having to be done a couple of times before they worked, and when I have gotten 3 blinks it ended up being a short. In your case it may be a short in the one of the new chips, You could try putting one old and one new chip together and see what you get. In most cases only one chip is bad, that means if you alternate twice you may come up with a working set of chips. otherwise it 's still worth another $16.95 to try again. I have 8 of these sony's, 2 -40xbr's , 2- 510hs36's , a 27hs 420 and 3- 970xbr34's and I bought a ten pack from this ebayer and all have worked so far.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I would try again with some new chips from a different source.

A Ton Of Sony's!
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post #1528 of 1807 Old 08-15-2011, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by tvaddicted View Post

Thanks crt, I read all your posts on this, and it's not the $ for parts, really, it is the weight issue. [ don't think I could get anyone to move this around for me]

As for working on it, your gui is great, but I would not attempt this myself.

If I can find a plasma I like, I would give this to anyone who would want to repair it as it is in great working shape aside from the blink problem. What a shame two cheap connectors brought this crt to it's knees. Sony quality took a nose dive imo.

quoting myself LOL...........

by the way, I have been running a fan flush with the grill on the right hand side while the tv is on and so far it has not shut down.
Also, after reading this forum all night, I see alot of issues with plasmas. This is getting very discouraging...............................

tvaddicted
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post #1529 of 1807 Old 08-15-2011, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ggratecc View Post
Hi all,
I've been reading this thread from the beginning for hours... but here is
my story..
Original problem of only starting after multiple attempts, 6 or 7 blinks.
Finally, won't startup at all, but still getting the 7 red blinks.
I removed the D board, ordered the 2 chips and sockets from ebay.
unsoldered the chips with a good de-soldering iron.
Carefully soldered in the sockets, inserted new chips, installed board
and reconnected everything.
Symptom: humm, click, 3 red blinks and clicks off.

If I put the two original DB chips back in the sockets, I get 6 blinks and off.
I put the 2 new chips back in, and it's back to the 3 red blinks.
I reseated all connecters and chips, but still 3 blinks.
thanks in advance, Greg

Maybe a bad solder connection

Pull the chips, then remelt all the solder points. Go easy, you don't want to burn off a trace or connect two pads together. Be sure to heat up both the pad on the PCB and the pin of the socket to avoid a "cold solder" joint.

Be sure the chips are facing the correct direction, check the bevel on the edge matches the black dot on the board. If the sockets are backwards they will cover the dot, but still work.
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post #1530 of 1807 Old 08-15-2011, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by rtmach View Post

I haven't posted in awhile so I'll chime in. I've done this repair on 5 sets with some having to be done a couple of times before they worked, and when I have gotten 3 blinks it ended up being a short. In your case it may be a short in the one of the new chips, You could try putting one old and one new chip together and see what you get. In most cases only one chip is bad, that means if you alternate twice you may come up with a working set of chips. otherwise it 's still worth another $16.95 to try again. I have 8 of these sony's, 2 -40xbr's , 2- 510hs36's , a 27hs 420 and 3- 970xbr34's and I bought a ten pack from this ebayer and all have worked so far.

...url

I would try again with some new chips from a different source.

rtmach, thanks for the reply. I previously tried matching an old and new chip and that did not work. I may try new pair of chips from manufacturer you mentioned.
If that does not work, I may try crtgamer's idea of remelting all the solder joints on my sockets, as it seems possible i have a cold solder joint.

Greg
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