You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 52 - AVS Forum
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post #1531 of 1774 Old 08-15-2011, 06:14 PM
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I picked up a cheap digital multi-meter at Harbor Freight, but I've never used on and have no idea how. Once I have made all my solder connections and plug in the IC, is there a way I can test my connections by making contact with pins 1 & 18 (for continuity?)?

I also got this cool LED lighted magnifyer with helping hands for $5.99 and this Pry Fork and Wire Bending Tool for $1.99.


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post #1532 of 1774 Old 08-16-2011, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiminIndy View Post

I picked up a cheap digital multi-meter at Harbor Freight, but I've never used on and have no idea how. Once I have made all my solder connections and plug in the IC, is there a way I can test my connections by making contact with pins 1 & 18 (for continuity?)?

I also got this cool LED lighted magnifyer with helping hands for $5.99 and this Pry Fork and Wire Bending Tool for $1.99.

Nice tools. I don't recommend using the meter, a risk of zapping the chip if the dial is set wrong. But to use, set the meter to OHMS and test with the two probes, one on each side of the PCB. I would not do it though, current from the meter internal battery might cause damage to the chip or something else on the PCB.

The meter is really not necessary, your magnifying glass will give a good visual of each solder connection.
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post #1533 of 1774 Old 08-19-2011, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggratecc View Post

rtmach, thanks for the reply. I previously tried matching an old and new chip and that did not work. I may try new pair of chips from manufacturer you mentioned.
If that does not work, I may try crtgamer's idea of remelting all the solder joints on my sockets, as it seems possible i have a cold solder joint.

Did you fix the WEGA?
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post #1534 of 1774 Old 08-19-2011, 02:20 PM
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Still not fixed, however the good news is I just received the new pair of chips and I will try them tonight.
I will post back with the results, but assuming I still get the 3 blinks and off, I will re-float the solder again on both sockets. Keep the advice coming...
Thanks again for those of you who are helping me, I really appreciate it.

P.S. - this kv-40xbr800 has two big caps on the D-board which looks fine to me, however they have some black foamy material that seem to be encircling the cap where it meets the PCB...hope this is not a problem.

Greg
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post #1535 of 1774 Old 08-19-2011, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggratecc View Post

Still not fixed, however the good news is I just received the new pair of chips and I will try them tonight.
I will post back with the results, but assuming I still get the 3 blinks and off, I will re-float the solder again on both sockets. Keep the advice coming...
Thanks again for those of you who are helping me, I really appreciate it.

P.S. - this kv-40xbr800 has two big caps on the D-board which looks fine to me, however they have some black foamy material that seem to be encircling the cap where it meets the PCB...hope this is not a problem.

Mine has it too, looks like factory installed to keep the capacitor in place.

Does it look like this?

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post #1536 of 1774 Old 08-19-2011, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRTGAMER View Post

Mine has it too, looks like factory installed to keep the capacitor in place.

Does it look like this?


CRT.. Yes it does look exactly like your photo , so I'm sure you are correct about it's purpose.

Now, I just put in the new chips from a different vendor and still have the same 3 blinks and then off. I just took the D board out again and took a photo of my soldering work on the two sockets. What do you think I should do? I suspect my job with the socket on the left is the problem area.
LL

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post #1537 of 1774 Old 08-20-2011, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggratecc View Post

CRT.. Yes it does look exactly like your photo , so I'm sure you are correct about it's purpose.

Now, I just put in the new chips from a different vendor and still have the same 3 blinks and then off. I just took the D board out again and took a photo of my soldering work on the two sockets. What do you think I should do? I suspect my job with the socket on the left is the problem area.


The solder job looks clean, just a touchup in a couple of spots? On the left chip 1st row down pads 3, 4 and 5 next to the "15". The two pads might be connected? Maybe scrape a slotted jewelers screwdriver to cut a clean path between the two. Left chip 2nd row top and 3rd pad might need remelt. Also in the 2nd row left chip, pads seven and eight might be connected, scrape here too.

If this doesn't work, then try a careful light on the solder remelt of all the pads.
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post #1538 of 1774 Old 08-20-2011, 01:35 PM
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CRTgamer: I cleaned up everything like you said, then used an ohm meter to check across the sockets. On both sockets I first checked continuity from underside of pin to topside of socket - all continuity checks were good. Then I went back though all underside pins and checked for shorts to adjacent pins. I found one potentional short and removed it by cleaning as you described. I then put the newest set of chips in and tested tv, unfortunately have same symptom as before...3 red blinks and clicks off. I'm willing to fix this D board but don't know what to do next.
Perhaps there is something different about the 40XBR800 that is difficult to fix?
I really appreciate anyone chiming in.

Greg
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post #1539 of 1774 Old 08-20-2011, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggratecc View Post

CRTgamer: I cleaned up everything like you said, then used an ohm meter to check across the sockets. On both sockets I first checked continuity from underside of pin to topside of socket - all continuity checks were good. Then I went back though all underside pins and checked for shorts to adjacent pins. I found one potential short and removed it by cleaning as you described. I then put the newest set of chips in and tested tv, unfortunately have same symptom as before...3 red blinks and clicks off. I'm willing to fix this D board but don't know what to do next.
Perhaps there is something different about the 40XBR800 that is difficult to fix?
I really appreciate anyone chiming in.

Maybe some of the narrow traces coming off the pads going to other components on the bottom? The narrow traces may not be connected to the pads anymore. Left Chip 2nd row pads 5 and 7 near the R0553 logo. Check the other rows too, the narrow traces look marginaly connected on a couple other pads.

I just noticed also maybe a short. Left chip 2nd row 3rd pad. Chunks of solder going to another pad to the right in the green area away from the socket pads. Scrutinize any other splattered solder on the white paint.

Maybe one of the connectors not seated right on the PCB? Unplug and reseat each one, including the four black blocks that attach the A and D board together.

Right chip last row bottom pad also looks like maybe a short to surrounding components?
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post #1540 of 1774 Old 08-20-2011, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRTGAMER View Post

Mine has it too, looks like factory installed to keep the capacitor in place.

Does it look like this?


Quote:
Originally Posted by CRTGAMER View Post

Maybe some of the narrow traces coming off the pads going to other components on the bottom? The narrow traces may not be connected to the pads anymore. Left Chip 2nd row pads 5 and 7 near the R0553 logo. Check the other rows too, the narrow traces look marginaly connected on a couple other pads.

I just noticed also maybe a short. Left chip 2nd row 3rd pad. Chunks of solder going to another pad to the right in the green area away from the socket pads. Scrutinize any other splattered solder on the white paint.

Maybe one of the connectors not seated right on the PCB? Unplug and reseat each one, including the four black blocks that attach the A and D board together.

Right chip last row bottom pad also looks like maybe a short to surrounding components?

thanks for looking at this...I checked all the traces you mentioned and all the traces are good...about 0.2 ohms. I should take another photo , but going out now.
Also I reseated all connectors (many times), no joy.

Greg
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post #1541 of 1774 Old 08-20-2011, 09:29 PM
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Here is a recent photo of the same area again. I never did resolder any points as I never found any opens in the traces. I even measured across all those small resistors connected to the left chip, continuity and resistance seems normal.
LL

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post #1542 of 1774 Old 08-21-2011, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggratecc View Post

Here is a recent photo of the same area again. I never did resolder any points as I never found any opens in the traces. I even measured across all those small resistors connected to the left chip, continuity and resistance seems normal.

One thing has been bugging me. The exposed PCB, white paint removed between some contacts. I know some of this was maybe caused by scrapping with a screwdriver, but were the old chips hard to remove? Maybe a pad got damaged? The OHM meter may pick up continuity but more sensitive then amp draw needed for each pin?, Remelt the solder anyways just in case.
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post #1543 of 1774 Old 08-21-2011, 04:12 PM
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Hi, the chips were easy to remove as I had an excellent quality electric solder sucker, the exposed part was because of a knife I used to clean up between pads. I will now take your advice and remelt the solder.
thanks again,

Greg
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post #1544 of 1774 Old 08-24-2011, 04:53 PM
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I just bought a 2002 34xbr800 for 175$,am I destined to get the 6 or 7 blinking lights that may signal board or capacitor problems ?Are there any of these xbr800 sets that have not had these issues? Love the picture quality,hope I didnt over pay.I may need some money for future repairs.
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post #1545 of 1774 Old 08-24-2011, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggratecc View Post

Hi, the chips were easy to remove as I had an excellent quality electric solder sucker, the exposed part was because of a knife I used to clean up between pads. I will now take your advice and remelt the solder.
thanks again,

I have remelted the solder for all pcb pads for the two sockets, made sure all connections to the D board are tight, still get the 3 blinks and OFF.
I tried all combinations of the new chips and old and still get the same symptom.

Thanks CRTgamer and others who helped, but I feel I'm at a dead end.
I plan to put the 40" out on the curb, so if anyone wants it let me know.
regards,

Greg
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post #1546 of 1774 Old 08-24-2011, 11:39 PM
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I replaced the two MCZ3001DB chips in my KV-40XBR800...it starts up and plays for about 15 to 30 minutes and will shut down with no blinking lights...you can hit the remote on button and it may shut off, no blinking light and play for a while and shut off again...any suggestions as how to fix this...
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post #1547 of 1774 Old 08-25-2011, 10:31 PM
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reds75: you're not "destined" to have those problems during the service life of the TV, it is just a possibility that seems more real because many who have these problems who doesn't throw their TV away come to this thread.

jwhodges: although the MCZ3001D failure is the most common with these TVs, it is not the only one. If it is losing power while running it is probably that something else with the electrics is wrong.
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post #1548 of 1774 Old 08-26-2011, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggratecc View Post

I have remelted the solder for all pcb pads for the two sockets, made sure all connections to the D board are tight, still get the 3 blinks and OFF.
I tried all combinations of the new chips and old and still get the same symptom.

Thanks CRTgamer and others who helped, but I feel I'm at a dead end.
I plan to put the 40" out on the curb, so if anyone wants it let me know.
regards,

Additional investment
Not sure if you want to keep trying. Where did you buy the chips? Some sources are unreliable, I have good results with TSM. They also recommended the following components if you want keep trying.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TSM View Post

http://www.tristatemodule.com/p-7979...dengen-ic.aspx

-Replacement of the following parts along with the MCZ3001DB IC's is recommended

-.1 Ohm 1/2W Fusible resistor (2 per board). Order 120293361

-1200uF 250V Electrolytic capacitor (2 per board). Order 1200UF250V

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post #1549 of 1774 Old 08-26-2011, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jwhodges View Post

I replaced the two MCZ3001DB chips in my KV-40XBR800...it starts up and plays for about 15 to 30 minutes and will shut down with no blinking lights...you can hit the remote on button and it may shut off, no blinking light and play for a while and shut off again...any suggestions as how to fix this...

I had the 6 blinks and no start up like others on the forum...got sockets and chips from B&D enterprises out of Russell, PA...desoldered with wick breaded cooper wire no problem...soldered in sockets and misaligned one chip which caused it not to power up...replaced chips and had TV, but after about 15 minutes it shut down...could that be caused by cold solder joints?
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post #1550 of 1774 Old 08-26-2011, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwhodges View Post
I had the 6 blinks and no start up like others on the forum...got sockets and chips from B&D enterprises out of Russell, PA...desoldered with wick breaded cooper wire no problem...soldered in sockets and misaligned one chip which caused it not to power up...replaced chips and had TV, but after about 15 minutes it shut down...could that be caused by cold solder joints?
My post is #1521
I've been running a small table fan directed at the case cover grill on the right hand side of the tv,[ it is acually flush with the cover] and it only stumbled once in the last 10 days. As I am not really able to repair it, I am planning to replace it. My point here is, just for the heck of it, I'd be interested in knowing if this works at all for you or anyone else. My tv does power up, but if it runs without the fan [ about a half hour or so] the screen goes black [ with some green artifacts] and shuts down. obviously something is getting too warm and the safety shut off kicks in. The fan however is keeping it cool enough to work. Yeah, I know, doesn't fix the problem, just giving me extra time to find another tv.

tvaddicted
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post #1551 of 1774 Old 08-27-2011, 06:03 PM
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I had the 7 blink error. Thanks to this forum, I replaced the two chips in my KV-36HS500. The picture is back, but the lower part of the screen has a slight bow to it. Kind of drops off in the lower left. I downloaded the service manual and accidently cleared out the memory trying to fix the problem. Before I hit the reset, everything was fine except for the sloping screen. After the reset and me trying to reinstall all of the initial data, I lost the picture, but not sound on Video 5 for my DVD and Video 7 for my HiDef. Does anyone have any ideas?
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post #1552 of 1774 Old 08-28-2011, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by dkstout View Post

I had the 7 blink error. Thanks to this forum, I replaced the two chips in my KV-36HS500. The picture is back, but the lower part of the screen has a slight bow to it. Kind of drops off in the lower left. I downloaded the service manual and accidently cleared out the memory trying to fix the problem. Before I hit the reset, everything was fine except for the sloping screen. After the reset and me trying to reinstall all of the initial data, I lost the picture, but not sound on Video 5 for my DVD and Video 7 for my HiDef. Does anyone have any ideas?

You lost 480p and above resolutions
Video 5 and Video 6 are component, 7 is HDMI/DVI. Does Video 6 still work? I will not go into the hidden service menu because of the risk such as this. If you can get back to the service menu thru a 480i selection, maybe check if there is a setting to enable the higher resolutions?
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post #1553 of 1774 Old 08-28-2011, 08:50 PM
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I have a KV-36HS500 with the 7 blinks. I read at another forum about using a hair dryer in the rightside vents for a few minutes to get it to come on, (which worked). Would this indicate a problem which the chips mentioned several times?
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post #1554 of 1774 Old 08-29-2011, 06:55 AM
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When I tried to reinstall the default settings for KV-36HS500, I selected where appropriate the 480i, which was just a guess at the time. Please note there are many four digit item acronyms on 33 pages of the service manual, from page 123 through page 155 for this model of the Sony. I wish I could obtain a key for the four digit item acronyms that would help me isolate which ones should be revisited.

Some of the possible selections are confusing without a key. An example is on page 133, for Category 2170P_4, Item 17 GAMM, where the column selections for "Standard" are: RF, CF/YC, Comp 480i, Comp 480p, Comp 1080i, Comp 720p, DVI 480i, DVI 480p, DVI VGA, DVI 1080i, DVI 720p, MS Menu, MS Single, and Twin.
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post #1555 of 1774 Old 08-29-2011, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daschrier View Post

Last night, my 34xbr970 made a loud electronic buzz saw type sound and shut off. Whenever I plug it back in, it makes the same sound 1-3 times, then the standby light flashes 6 times. The screen never comes on.

Based on what I've read through in this thread, it's a bad chip/board. Anyone have a more specific idea of the issue, and if it's even worth fixing?


Based on reading this thread, any potential repair is beyond my skill/knowledge level. Anyone in the Boston area that could diagnose and fix this TV?
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post #1556 of 1774 Old 08-29-2011, 02:00 PM
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@ SFX27 - Hairdryer is a temporary solution that eventually will no longer work. The chips are usually the culprit.

@ SFX27 and daschrier - Click the link to my Guide at the top of page 51 in this Thread. Its very in depth, should help to answer any questions. The only real tricky part is the solder work. If you have a steady hand its really not that hard to do.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dkstout View Post

When I tried to reinstall the default settings for KV-36HS500, I selected where appropriate the 480i, which was just a guess at the time. Please note there are many four digit item acronyms on 33 pages of the service manual, from page 123 through page 155 for this model of the Sony. I wish I could obtain a key for the four digit item acronyms that would help me isolate which ones should be revisited.

Some of the possible selections are confusing without a key. An example is on page 133, for Category 2170P_4, Item 17 GAMM, where the column selections for "Standard" are: RF, CF/YC, Comp 480i, Comp 480p, Comp 1080i, Comp 720p, DVI 480i, DVI 480p, DVI VGA, DVI 1080i, DVI 720p, MS Menu, MS Single, and Twin.

I asked this earlier, Do you have video on input #6?
If you do, use that Component input for the HD signal. Or you can dive in and risk losing the 480i signals. I would first attack the DVI input and set it to 480p. If it works, then try the higher resolution settings. Be sure DVI VGA is off, might interfere with regular DVI/HDMI signals.

There is another thread on this site that covers Service settings.
Maybe PM the KenTech: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=531494

Do you have a link to download the Service Manual?
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post #1557 of 1774 Old 08-30-2011, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRTGAMER View Post

@ SFX27 - Hairdryer is a temporary solution that eventually will no longer work. The chips are usually the culprit.

@ SFX27 and daschrier - Click the link to my Guide at the top of page 51 in this Thread. Its very in depth, should help to answer any questions. The only real tricky part is the solder work. If you have a steady hand its really not that hard to do.



I asked this earlier, Do you have video on input #6?
If you do, use that Component input for the HD signal. Or you can dive in and risk losing the 480i signals. I would first attack the DVI input and set it to 480p. If it works, then try the higher resolution settings. Be sure DVI VGA is off, might interfere with regular DVI/HDMI signals.

There is another thread on this site that covers Service settings.
Maybe PM the KenTech: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=531494

Do you have a link to download the Service Manual?


I did briefly skim through your guide, but is it applicable to the xbr970 set?
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post #1558 of 1774 Old 08-30-2011, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daschrier View Post

I did briefly skim through your guide, but is it applicable to the xbr970 set?

Your WEGA should have basically the same layout. You could try the hairdryer trick as a temporary fix, might work. Replacing the under twenty dollar chips is the more permanent solution.
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post #1559 of 1774 Old 09-01-2011, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by RobertF View Post

I had done some soldering also before I attempted my XBR400 repair. What I found to be more of a challenge than I expected was desoldering. That was a bit of a pain. I did have an old and defective PC motherboard stored away and I practiced desoldering some ICs on that. that was a big help. I also found a head mounted magnifying visor to be a big help.

Also, as mentioned above, consider installing 18 pin sockets for the ICs.

Bob

When soldering in the 18 pin sockets, do you leave the same pins unsoldered like the original chips? I would believe they would so as not to make a connection for the pins, but would like to check. Also, where are the soldering tips? I have never done soldering like this.
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post #1560 of 1774 Old 09-01-2011, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by dbsimms63 View Post

When soldering in the 18 pin sockets, do you leave the same pins unsoldered like the original chips? I would believe they would so as not to make a connection for the pins, but would like to check. Also, where are the soldering tips? I have never done soldering like this.

Yes, there's no need to solder the unsoldered pins.

And there are soldering tips scattered throughout this thread. But here are some that I posted over on agoraquest.com under "BobF":

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic....page_number=10

Good Luck!

Bob
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