You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 54 - AVS Forum
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post #1591 of 1774 Old 10-26-2011, 01:56 PM
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Thanks to everybody who has posted their findings and fixes! I've had this TV about 8 years (2nd owner) and while I would love to have a new 37" LED I'm not ready to part with the cash just yet. I got the 7 flashes so it looks like it time to replace the ICs that everyone else is having issues with. I have ordered my sockets and chips and they will be installed this weekend when a cousin of mine come up. He used to work for Motorola working on phones and is pretty darn good at soldering.

I have already removed the back of the TV and the plastic bar from underneath. Just have to flip it back on its face and do the work.

I'll let you know the out come.
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post #1592 of 1774 Old 10-27-2011, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott91370 View Post

I have already removed the back of the TV and the plastic bar from underneath. Just have to flip it back on its face and do the work.

I'll let you know the out come.

Don't rotate the TV!
A chance the tube may crack the front bezel. I posted a guide with pics showing how the CRT sits on a cradle in the regular position.

The Guide: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1366567
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post #1593 of 1774 Old 10-29-2011, 08:57 AM
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Too late. Already finished the project.

We have powered it on/off after running it for a while and letting it warm up.

So far working perfect!

Thanks to everyone that posted their fixes!!!

Total cost for parts: $16.25
Tools $6.00
Beer/Dinner for payment of repair: $15.00

Total: $37.25!!!!
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post #1594 of 1774 Old 11-01-2011, 05:42 PM
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Great tv for around 6 years - but got the 6 blinks a couple weeks ago. Replaced the two ICs (same model in set as the current ones from TSM) - no joy still 6 blinks followed by . I thought about trying the additional parts recommended by TSM but TV doesn't fit in current room anyway so will forgo trying the capacitors and fuse recommended. tristatemodule.com

If someone wants a free tv contact me so it can be picked up in Rockville MD before I take it to the landfill this weekend.
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post #1595 of 1774 Old 11-01-2011, 06:58 PM
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To follow-up on the red screen of death for my 34xbr960, I brought the 200 lb beast to a local pro, and after several diagnostic tests, the TV actually came back to life!! We turned it off again, put the rear cover back on, turned it back on... red screen. Diagnosis: death by short in picture tube.
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post #1596 of 1774 Old 11-02-2011, 06:16 PM
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Its alive again thank you to everyone
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post #1597 of 1774 Old 11-03-2011, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by artyusmce View Post

Its alive again thank you to everyone

Congrats! Model number of TV and which version chip did you use?
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post #1598 of 1774 Old 11-03-2011, 04:59 PM
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Wanted to share my thanks and appreciation to all here for helping me bring my Sony back to life! Here's what happened: My KD-34XBR960 had the dreaded 'six-blinks no-power'. I unplugged it for a week and it worked for a day before doing the six blink thing. I'm no electronics tech, and have only done a little soldering, but thought I'd at least look into how to fix the TV. I concluded from reading threads here and other places that the most likely problem were one or both chips on the D board, IC6501 and IC8002. BobF in particular had some great suggestions on fixing them and I followed most of them (should have followed them all, see below). The easy part: Getting to the board and chips. The back cover came off easily, and the whole bottom electronics section slides out. Took a few connections loose and got to the D board. Now the hard part: Getting the chips out and new ones in. I easily located the two ICs (I'd looked up some diagnostics diagrams but really wasn't necessary as these chips are plainly labeled and easy to spot). I used unsoldering braid to remove solder, but couldn't get the chips to come loose. There couldn't have been much holding them, and I finally just wrenched them out with pliers. At this point the TV was a brick anyway and I was getting a little frustrated as I'd been so careful up to this point and it wasn't going to plan. Should have listened to BobF and shelled out cash to get the slim cutters so that each pin could be cut and unsoldered individually. Also should have listened to the advice that if you find yourself rushing and forcing things to stop and come back later. In my case, fortunately, it didn't cost me though I thought it had at the time and didn't find out it didn't until the end. I ordered Shindengen MCZ3001DB replacement chips from B&D Enterprises ($12.10/ea) and this time followed BobF's advice and got 18-pin sockets (3M4818-3000-CP, $.79/ea). Soldering in the sockets was tedious, especially given my novice soldering status, and I worried I was going to solder two legs together but this time took my time and got the sockets installed. It was a bit difficult getting the chips in the sockets but again, using patience, got them in there. Then it was just a matter of connecting everything together again. At this point I wasn't holding out any great hope, but when I hit the power button but knew I'd at least tried. And when the beast actually came back to life, and has come back to life since then, I have gotten a great sense of satisfaction that my efforts paid off. Again, thanks to all on this forum and others that provided me the knowledge, and courage, to get this fix done.
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post #1599 of 1774 Old 11-04-2011, 12:27 PM
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Well, my 36XBR800 will not turn on and I am getting the 6 and 7 blinking lights. I am the original owner and have taken good care, but I guess one of the IC's went bad. So, I have a new 60GT30 Plasma coming and need to move the beast out of the house. I also have the Sony stand for it as well. This forum has given me some great advise for this tv and my new plamsa.

So, if anyone is interested in the 36XBR800 and wants to do the soldering fix, it is yours for free. That includes the stand. Just send me a message. I live in Thousand Oaks, CA (Southern California). I really do not want to trash it, as the picture was perfect on it. Maybe to just have it for parts? It just will not turn back on and I am not interested with tinkering with it.

Let me know.

Thanks.
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post #1600 of 1774 Old 11-04-2011, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRTGAMER View Post

Congrats! Model number of TV and which version chip did you use?

36XBR800 and 2- MCZ3001DB chips, I also used the sockets.

Now slight green tint bottom left side of screen and purple/red tint top left side of screen any ideas???
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post #1601 of 1774 Old 11-04-2011, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott91370 View Post

Too late. Already finished the project.

We have powered it on/off after running it for a while and letting it warm up.

So far working perfect!

Thanks to everyone that posted their fixes!!!

Total cost for parts: $16.25
Tools $6.00
Beer/Dinner for payment of repair: $15.00

Total: $37.25!!!!

any noticeable tinting or discolor issues top and bottom leftside
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post #1602 of 1774 Old 11-04-2011, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTAJIM View Post

To follow-up on the red screen of death for my 34xbr960, I brought the 200 lb beast to a local pro, and after several diagnostic tests, the TV actually came back to life!! We turned it off again, put the rear cover back on, turned it back on... red screen. Diagnosis: death by short in picture tube.

OTAJIM - I had a very similar issue on my KV-34XBR800. Check out this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1359208. In that thread it was suggested by member neccrttv that the issue is either due to a CRT short (heater to cathode, or H-K short) or a faulty red video driver IC.

Among other things, I tried tapping the CRT neck several times to "fix" the H-K short, and each time the issue returned within a week. Two Saturdays ago I replaced the red video driver IC and so far, a little more than a week later, I haven't had any indications of the red burst a.k.a. red screen-of-death.

I was planning to wait until I tested the solution for at least 2 weeks before I updated my post in the referenced thread, but thought you may want to try what I tried before you give up on your set. Good luck on your repair!
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post #1603 of 1774 Old 11-05-2011, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artyusmce View Post

36XBR800 and 2- MCZ3001DB chips, I also used the sockets.

Now slight green tint bottom left side of screen and purple/red tint top left side of screen any ideas???

Either the Degauss Cable shifted, magnets or some of wedges around the CRT neck fell. Not sure if the wedges would have any magnetic influence on the tube, they look like plain foam, but try to get them back in their original spots.
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post #1604 of 1774 Old 11-08-2011, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by artyusmce View Post

any noticeable tinting or discolor issues top and bottom leftside

None at all. Set looked exactly as it did before. (see next post for bad news)
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post #1605 of 1774 Old 11-08-2011, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTAJIM View Post

To follow-up on the red screen of death ... Diagnosis: death by short in picture tube.

Left the house at 6:45pm, came home at 9:15pm and mine now has the red screen and 7 blinks. I can see the picture through the screen for about 2 seconds then it shuts off. I cannot believe this.

How many guys would say, "No, I do not want to buy a new TV."
I really don't. I may cancel my dish sat. service and go without one.
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post #1606 of 1774 Old 11-08-2011, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snevig View Post

OTAJIM - I had a very similar issue on my KV-34XBR800. Check out this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1359208.
Good luck on your repair!

I am looking for the part you replaced but am having no luck with TDA6120Q/N2/S1. If I just put in TDA6120Q I find them by RCA, Mitsu and some without other names. Where did you find yours?

You didn't by chance take any pics of this, did you? I have the service manual, but first hand pics are always a good thing.
I was able to bang on the back of the set and it came on.

Thanks for linking to this- I guess I'll be trying another solder job.
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post #1607 of 1774 Old 11-08-2011, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott91370 View Post

I am looking for the part you replaced but am having no luck with TDA6120Q/N2/S1. If I just put in TDA6120Q I find them by RCA, Mitsu and some without other names. Where did you find yours?

The part is a Philips IC. I ordered it from B & D Enterprises (www.bdent.com) for $10.59 (US), with a few other items. You may also want to order thermal compound (item no. NTE303), but I just reused the stuff that was on the old IC and heat sink. Delivery was less than a week.

Quote:


You didn't by chance take any pics of this, did you? I have the service manual, but first hand pics are always a good thing.
I was able to bang on the back of the set and it came on.

Thanks for linking to this- I guess I'll be trying another solder job.

Sorry, no pictures. On my KV-34XBR800 it is IC9001 on the CX board, which is the board that connects to the neck of the tube. Check the schematic and parts list in your service manual to make sure it is the correct part.

You may also want to try tapping the tube neck (gently!) with a screwdriver handle. Apparently there are multiple potential causes for the red screen, and what worked for my set may not work for yours.

Good luck on your repair!
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post #1608 of 1774 Old 11-10-2011, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snevig View Post

The part is a Philips IC. I ordered it from B & D Enterprises (www.bdent.com) for $10.59 (US), with a few other items. You may also want to order thermal compound (item no. NTE303), but I just reused the stuff that was on the old IC and heat sink. Delivery was less than a week.



Sorry, no pictures. On my KV-34XBR800 it is IC9001 on the CX board, which is the board that connects to the neck of the tube. Check the schematic and parts list in your service manual to make sure it is the correct part.

You may also want to try tapping the tube neck (gently!) with a screwdriver handle. Apparently there are multiple potential causes for the red screen, and what worked for my set may not work for yours.

Good luck on your repair!


Tapping the back of the TV with the case still on brought it back to life for a few days. This afternoon it happened again so I tapped (read: beat) on the back of the TV but it only stayed on for a few seconds.
I did look at the schematic for my set and it is the same part number so I guess while I am waiting for it to arrive ($15 minimum order for anybody else that is loking) I will be looking for a decent replacement set, just in case.

Thanks for the reply!
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post #1609 of 1774 Old 11-17-2011, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRTGAMER View Post

Either the Degauss Cable shifted, magnets or some of wedges around the CRT neck fell. Not sure if the wedges would have any magnetic influence on the tube, they look like plain foam, but try to get them back in their original spots.

discoloration went away after a few days as good as new
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post #1610 of 1774 Old 11-18-2011, 06:12 AM
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In my Sony KV-36HS500, I replaced the IC chips that fix the screen problem. I entered the Service Adjustment Mode and accidently reset to the factory settings. I tried to use the Service Manual to adjust but there are too many options. Currently not working due to the factory reset are Video 4 and Video 7, so I can not view my DVD or use the HighDef Mode. Looking for someone who can provide me with a list of their settings as a guide. Thank you.
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post #1611 of 1774 Old 11-19-2011, 08:04 AM
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I feel bad for possibly bringing up what's already been delt with, but I'm having a hard time searching for what I need.
I have a Sony KV-34HS510 that I had die before and give me six or seven blinks of the standby light, which I seemed to fix by replacing the two IC chips on the D-board. My soldering looked top notch, it flowed well and I even had it confirmed by someone that works with electronics on a regular basis, I did indeed do well.
But on the second time powering up I noticed these jagged black lines jutting into the picture from either side of the screen, randomly, around three or four at a time, jumping in and out of the picture. This problem cleared up for a while, but no more than fifteen minutes later they reappeared and about five minutes later they reappeared in force and began taking over the screen until the picture suddenly lost all of it's horizontal width and became a slender white line down the middle of the TV, then suddenly that too vanished and the TV started flashing the standby light four times again and again.
I didn't notice it but I was told there was a flash in the proximity of the D-board and a crack when this happened. I haven't opened it back up yet, I'm letting everything discharge for a good while before I even think of working on it, but that's all I have to work on. Could anyone help me figure out just what's wrong and what happened there? Fixing the TV was the pinnacle of my day and this turn of events has turned the whole day into one of the worst in recent memory I'd be grateful for any and all help, I tried searching but all I kept getting were random "four"s and "4"s that had nothing to do with the blinking.
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post #1612 of 1774 Old 11-19-2011, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwistedD85 View Post

I feel bad for possibly bringing up what's already been delt with, but I'm having a hard time searching for what I need.
I have a Sony KV-34HS510 that I had die before and give me six or seven blinks of the standby light, which I seemed to fix by replacing the two IC chips on the D-board. My soldering looked top notch, it flowed well and I even had it confirmed by someone that works with electronics on a regular basis, I did indeed do well.
But on the second time powering up I noticed these jagged black lines jutting into the picture from either side of the screen, randomly, around three or four at a time, jumping in and out of the picture. This problem cleared up for a while, but no more than fifteen minutes later they reappeared and about five minutes later they reappeared in force and began taking over the screen until the picture suddenly lost all of it's horizontal width and became a slender white line down the middle of the TV, then suddenly that too vanished and the TV started flashing the standby light four times again and again.
I didn't notice it but I was told there was a flash in the proximity of the D-board and a crack when this happened. I haven't opened it back up yet, I'm letting everything discharge for a good while before I even think of working on it, but that's all I have to work on. Could anyone help me figure out just what's wrong and what happened there? Fixing the TV was the pinnacle of my day and this turn of events has turned the whole day into one of the worst in recent memory I'd be grateful for any and all help, I tried searching but all I kept getting were random "four"s and "4"s that had nothing to do with the blinking.

Might not be the D Board Chips
The chips control the power on after clearing voltage sensing. In your case you had power with the jagged lines before the TV stopped working. Maybe something else got bumped during the repair? The flash does not sound good, some clarity on this? Once you pop the cover, check all the connections and see if any capacitor is swelled up.
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post #1613 of 1774 Old 11-19-2011, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRTGAMER View Post

Might not be the D Board Chips
The chips control the power on after clearing voltage sensing. In your case you had power with the jagged lines before the TV stopped working. Maybe something else got bumped during the repair? The flash does not sound good, some clarity on this? Once you pop the cover, check all the connections and see if any capacitor is swelled up.

I'll take a look in a couple days when I can, this was the last moment I had to do it today, that and I'm really fearful of getting the life shocked out of me by this thing. The one who saw it said it looked like arcing, everything looked settled when I put it back in, the only thing that might've been knocked around would've been the lines going to and from the coil/transformer thing on the D-board since I had to twist around the board to get to the bottom of it. But I tried to be careful and I'm sure I plugged everything back in, I really hope nothing else went bad, especially a capacitor. If it is am I going to just replace it or do I have to go for the entire board? Or is the TV toast then? I'm trying so hard to think back and make sure I got everything.
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post #1614 of 1774 Old 11-19-2011, 07:53 PM
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I'll take a look in a couple days when I can, this was the last moment I had to do it today, that and I'm really fearful of getting the life shocked out of me by this thing. The one who saw it said it looked like arcing, everything looked settled when I put it back in, the only thing that might've been knocked around would've been the lines going to and from the coil/transformer thing on the D-board since I had to twist around the board to get to the bottom of it. But I tried to be careful and I'm sure I plugged everything back in, I really hope nothing else went bad, especially a capacitor. If it is am I going to just replace it or do I have to go for the entire board? Or is the TV toast then? I'm trying so hard to think back and make sure I got everything.

Capacitors are inexpensive and very easy to replace, only two solder points. But wait and see, maybe post a pic of the board and a closeup of the solder job when you take it apart.
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post #1615 of 1774 Old 11-20-2011, 12:36 PM
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I haven't been able to move the TV to check on it yet, I need a second pair of hands, but I did want to revise my statement. I just misheard what they said, they said they didn't see any flash at any time, although they said they heard what sounded like arcing when the TV did it's thing and died.
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post #1616 of 1774 Old 11-20-2011, 01:51 PM
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I haven't been able to move the TV to check on it yet, I need a second pair of hands, but I did want to revise my statement. I just misheard what they said, they said they didn't see any flash at any time, although they said they heard what sounded like arcing when the TV did it's thing and died.

That could just be normal, the Degauss does pop when you first turn on the CRT. Please post the pics once you pull the cover off.
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post #1617 of 1774 Old 11-24-2011, 10:55 AM
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I have the kv-40xbr800 and got the 7 blink last week after 8 years of daily use. Replaced IC8002 and installed an ic socket just in case it fails in the future. I purchased 2 extra ICs and sockets for future use.

I used the blue solder sucker and an adjustable soldering iron. I think most are having issues because they are using a pen that is not getting hot enough which requires you to keep it there longer. I set mine to 550d to remove IC and 500d to solder new IC socket. I would only keep it there for only 1 sec which was enough to melt solder. If I needed to reheat I would wait or move to next one and come back to that point after it cooled as not wanting to take a chance. Also if using the solder sucker you do not need to have it right above what you are trying to remove. I found it more effective and quick to have sucker at a 45d angle right on the board plus on top to the joint and with your other hand apply heat, press to suck. You need to do this quick. It only took me 2 mins to remove all the solder and IC chip without the need of desoldering braid and another 2 min to put new IC.

I big thanks to everyone as I love this TV and very happy I could save it.
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post #1618 of 1774 Old 11-25-2011, 07:06 AM
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Just a Bump. In my Sony KV-36HS500, I replaced the IC chips that fix the screen problem. I entered the Service Adjustment Mode and accidently reset to the factory settings. I tried to use the Service Manual to adjust but there are too many options. Currently not working due to the factory reset are Video 4 and Video 7, so I can not view my DVD or use the HighDef Mode. Looking for someone who can provide me with a list of their settings as a guide. On Video 7, which is HighDef, we have sound, but a black sreen. Thank you.
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post #1619 of 1774 Old 11-29-2011, 06:23 PM
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I have a 34XBR800 and i will be trying the MCZ3001DB chip repair soon. Question for those who've done this, how has your TV lasted after doing the repair? Still going? or did you have to do this repair a second time?

sony CRT.... haven't seen a better pic yet!
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post #1620 of 1774 Old 11-30-2011, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by eye_candy View Post

I have a 34XBR800 and i will be trying the MCZ3001DB chip repair soon. Question for those who've done this, how has your TV lasted after doing the repair? Still going? or did you have to do this repair a second time?

Mine is still holding out, repaired in July. I recommend getting sockets just in case you ever have to do the repair a second time.

Sony Trinitron WEGA RLOD Twenty Dollar Repair Guide
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1366567
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