AVS Forum banner

You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti

669K views 2K replies 405 participants last post by  WegamaniacHD 
#1 ·
I saw some others with the problem..set comes on for a sec. then goes into a protection mode...the light on mine blinks 3 times...


When it first happened I took the back off and (WOW, lol) very dirty, cleaned it out thinking that was the problem...And when I plugged it back in and turned it on it came right on? But, next day same problem. This time I just unplugged it for a few minutes and it came on (keep in mind though, the first time this happened I had tried that, unplugging it..with NO success then).


I guess I am asking if anyone else found out something, like what is the problem???


Thank You for any info.

PS: I have had this TV for about 5 years now and love it. I would hate for this to be a unfixable or cost more then its worth to fix.





I decided to have the name of the thread changed so people can post and read about these kinds of problems with these TVs


I just think we needed a thread for this, as I have read here and other forums of these problems, but they are spread all over the place....

Please feel free to post here with your problem, fix, or answer to another users problem
But please, DO NOT POST HERE your complaint, preference of brand or model, or anything other then what relates to the thread title!!! Thank You



As an added point I like to make.............

Please if anyone has any info on any problem fixes from the standby light blinks (2,3,4,5, etc.. blinks), feel free to add it in this tread.......................


Thank You, have a good day
and good luck with your Sony
 
See less See more
5
#1,356 ·
My Sony Wega 32" CRT is now starting to act mildy funny. Everthing still works perfectly, but sometimes when I turn my TV the color on the screen is like a greenish tint, then seconds later it goes back to normal. There was even a time when I noticed a wierd greenish blurry splotch in the bottom right hand corner of the screen. It was only there for a day though....


What's the deal? I've also had this TV for around 5 years now hehe.

But I have another CRT which I've had for 9 years and it's still working perfectly.
 
#1,357 ·
How are you gentlemen? I just received a KV-40XBR800. $100. The seller stated that she had stopped using it regularly because it would not turn on intermittently. When we plugged it up, it just powered on. I have already ordered sockets and chips in order to be proactive, but out of curiosity how long have folks usually had their sets working before needing to do the swap? How long is the longest that anyone has needed to replace their replaced chips? I think this thread is awesome by the way, love this screen and looking forward to many years of use with it.
 
#1,358 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by LiquidSnake /forum/post/19642376


How are you gentlemen? I just received a KV-40XBR800. $100. The seller stated that she had stopped using it regularly because it would not turn on intermittently. When we plugged it up, it just powered on. I have already ordered sockets and chips in order to be proactive, but out of curiosity how long have folks usually had their sets working before needing to do the swap? How long is the longest that anyone has needed to replace their replaced chips? I think this thread is awesome by the way, love this screen and looking forward to many years of use with it.

I had to re do mine on a 40xbr800 that I also got for a $100 after about 6 months, but that was because I used a solder sucker and got specks on some of the other circuit lines. it would cut off in the vivid setting and went completely out so I cleaned off the specks and it works perfect now. But these new DB chips should last at least as long or maybe longer than the originals. Your 40xbr was made in 2003-2004 and it started going bad in the last year or so, same as mine, so that's about 5-6 years. I also was able to pick up another 40xbr800 that was still working for $200 and it still has the original chips and still works. So I spent about $375 and now have 2 40xbr800's with the originals stands, plus a dozen chips and the soldering tools, not bad for 2 of the best crt's ever made. And thanks to finding this thread the know how to repair them.
My advice is to take your time ,read this thread carefully to not make some common mistakes others have and not worry about fixing this problem again for awhile, assuming you do a good job.
 
#1,360 ·
Well gentlemen, I just gotta' say.... this forum is one of the best. I know for sure that if it was unavailable to me, this great set would be in the trash pile.

You know the story the dreaded 6 to 7 blinks. I just followed the directions on this forum and ordered the IC's and sockets. I used a solder sucker, it was much easier than wick, soldered in the sockets plugged in the new IC's and wall-ahh....... she's back up and running. I only have one problem, I don't know how i am going to tell the previous owner, who gave me the set, that I fixed it for under $40.00 bucks.
Maybe I will just keep my mouth shut.



Thanks to all you guys for the great info on what I think is one of the best pictures out there. Sincerely Dave AKA Mr Evil1
 
#1,362 ·
My loving Sony just took a s**t !!


I bought this behemoth over a year and a half ago on Criagslist and I am emotionally involved with this TV... I LOVE the picture and sound quality of this set !!! It is rarely turned off for one reason or another, now I remember why !


My girlfriend has bought 3 LG flat screens this year, and this set is better than any TV I have seen.


I am so glad that I found this forum... to find out that I'm not the only one that is not afraid to attempt repair of this TV - or is just Scotch(edit: my girlfriend said that this was racist and displays bigotry- until she remembered that I am Scotch/English-and have been told by her that I am cheap!!)) enough to give up on it !! I am not afraid to repair this set- it's already broken !!!


I have yet to get this elephantine receiver on it's face and rip the back off of it- but does anyone know for sure the IC part#s (2-3 MCX3001D)or fuses that I need to repair it ??? For the cost I might as well replace them all, Plus there are lots of Sonys around here for free that won't turn on !!! I also plan on using the sockets, seems like cheap insurance for soldering mistakes and future replacements.


I told my girlfriend that when we sell our house they will get a free Sony with it. It rode around in the back of my van for quite a while before I could round up the manpower to get this box of anvils into the bedroom !


PLEASE help me so I won't have to renege on my word !!! PLUS it will cost me $13.00 just to throw this boat anchor away !!!


Thanks, Ron


p.s. There have possibly been some phantom electrical spikes in my power supply, our LG that is plugged into the same circuit has been turning on several times at night (fuse in the Sony?????).
 
#1,363 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red S/C /forum/post/19695578


My loving Sony just took a s**t !!


I bought behemoth this over a year and a half ago on Criagslist and I am emotionally involved with this TV... I LOVE the picture and sound quality of this set !!! It is rarely turned off for one reason or another, now I remember why !


My girlfriend has bought 3 LG flat screens this year, and this set is better than any TV I have seen.


I am so glad that I found this forum... to find out that I'm not the only one that is not afraid to attempt repair of this TV - or is just Scotch enough to give up on it !! I am not afraid to repair this set- it's already broken !!!


I have yet to get this elephantine receiver on it's face and rip the back off of it- but does anyone know for sure the ICs or fuses that I need to repair it ??? For the cost I might as well replace them all, Plus there are lots of Sonys around here for free that won't turn on !!!


I told my girlfriend that when we sell our house they will get a free Sony with it. It rode around in the back of my van for quite a while before I could round up the manpower to get this box of anvils into the bedroom !


PLEASE help me so I won't have to renege on my word !!! PLUS it will cost me $13.00 just to throw this boat anchor away !!!


Thanks, Ron


p.s. There have possibly been some phantom electrical spikes in my power supply, our LG that is plugged into the same circuit has been turning on several times at night (fuse in the Sony?????).

Think of the IC's as internal fuses or circuit breakers/conductors, they will stop the flyback from sending a charge to the screen. With that said if you read this thread there are a bunch of step by step guides that will make it a very easy job if you read and take your time , maybe even practice some before you start if you haven't soldered before. lots of the posts are from first time members who have read this thread and fixed their sets on the first try. you can get the chips for about $15 and a soldering kit from amazon for $15-$20 . so less than $40 to have your set back. I'm always looking on craigslist for non working XBR's for free or cheap either to fix or for the parts for future fixes.
 
#1,364 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red S/C /forum/post/19695578


My loving Sony just took a s**t !!


I bought this behemoth over a year and a half ago on Criagslist and I am emotionally involved with this TV... I LOVE the picture and sound quality of this set !!! It is rarely turned off for one reason or another, now I remember why !


My girlfriend has bought 3 LG flat screens this year, and this set is better than any TV I have seen.


I am so glad that I found this forum... to find out that I'm not the only one that is not afraid to attempt repair of this TV - or is just Scotch(edit: my girlfriend said that this was racist and displays bigotry- until she remembered that I am Scotch/English-and have been told by her that I am cheap!!)) enough to give up on it !! I am not afraid to repair this set- it's already broken !!!


I have yet to get this elephantine receiver on it's face and rip the back off of it- but does anyone know for sure the IC part#s (2-3 MCX3001D)or fuses that I need to repair it ??? For the cost I might as well replace them all, Plus there are lots of Sonys around here for free that won't turn on !!! I also plan on using the sockets, seems like cheap insurance for soldering mistakes and future replacements.


I told my girlfriend that when we sell our house they will get a free Sony with it. It rode around in the back of my van for quite a while before I could round up the manpower to get this box of anvils into the bedroom !


PLEASE help me so I won't have to renege on my word !!! PLUS it will cost me $13.00 just to throw this boat anchor away !!!


Thanks, Ron


p.s. There have possibly been some phantom electrical spikes in my power supply, our LG that is plugged into the same circuit has been turning on several times at night (fuse in the Sony?????).

If the power LED does not light up at all and you hear no powering up sound when you press the remote on button or the power button on the TV, it is most likely the main fuse. It was a $5 part that takes a few days ordered online from Sony (see post a couple of pages ago where someone told me the link and replacement part number).


Unfortunately, I had already tossed the foam pieces from the box when I thought mine was dead so it won't move with me if I ever move out of my house.


Ha ha, I never knew Scotch were cheap like Jews (my bro-in-law) or Asians (me) until I took a tour of the Highlands a couple of years ago and the tour driver/guide told us some Scotch jokes.


The $5 fuse saved me from spending $1000 on a new 58" plasma, and shopping for a new TV revealed even the best new plasmas and LEDs have fuzziness artifacts with football players in motion.


Just make sure you hold the top handle securely so the face doesn't end up tilting and landing on the floor when you lower it from your stand to the ground. Mine ended up with a chip on the top edge where it made contact with a bar bell - I had not expected it to tilt over to the heavy face when we lowered it - luckily the screen didn't contact anything hard and shatter into a zillion pieces. Only damage was the chip on the cabinet and a temporarily tweaked ring finger from the torquing force when we semi-slow-dropped it over...
 
#1,366 ·
Aloha to all on Christmas eve !!


I just wanted to know if the IC chips in my set were the MCZ3001d's? I ordered 3 chips and sockets from a domestic supplier. I purchased the Shindengen MCZ3001DB- 2 possible on the D board 1 possible on the other board, or to replace on other free Sonys around here. Is it the same #s on the chips that are in there? The numbers I see posted here are just the numbering position on the board?


The set makes the degaussing noise and I am getting the 6 blinks on the switch- just not powering up w/ no sound or picture.


Soldering isn't a problem, might be a little rusty on boards... and need to pick up some accessories that I have seen on this forum.


Is there any way to test this fuse/resister while I am in there? And what about the capacitors???


Thanks, Ron


p.s. Got this colossus out of the bedroom last night, and sat it face down in the spare bed room on a blanketed box. Boy- was my girlfriend's 22 year old son wheezing !!!
 
#1,367 ·
I've got 10 sony's, 5 different models, and all have the same chassis #DA4, I repaired 3 different model's with the same chips so I think as long as it has a DA4 chassis they will work. I haven't seen anybody need to replace the third chip on the "A" board, I don't think that board has very high voltage like the D board. If you use sockets you will have a backup since some have reported just replacing one chip to fix it. I would think that unless your set got hit by lighting that replacing the chips should work.
 
#1,369 ·
Aloha to all I hope you had a merry Christmas !!!


I got out my girlfriends new Skil battery driver drill and blew the back off of my Sony. The chassis didn't really seem really locked in. Just slid it up and kinda propped it up on the base of the cabinet bottom, after loosening some of the reusable wire ties. Couldn't find my dremel tool from Harbor Freight, so went to the coffee can in my kitchen and found a set of old bypass loppers that belonged to my girlfriends father. I stuck the anvil side between the circuit board and the offending plastic frame work- and voila !! I just applied what I would call moderate, steady pressure and it cut it like butta ! Success! The plastic wasn't the super hard plastic that shatters, a lot softer than I thought. Total working time 15minutes max (not counting fighting off cats, my girlfriend worried about killing myself, and looking for tools) Now I am just waiting to receive my chips on Monday....


Pictures

#1 The set up

#2 the reusable ties

#3 the first cut

#4 another view

#5 Success!!




 
#1,371 ·
Hi

I fixed the seven blinking lights on the Sony 34XBR 800, butnow I am getting three blinking lights. It's probably a bad solder or solder is attaching SOMETHING TO WHERE IT DOESN'T BELONG.


I WILL DE-SOLDER in THE AREA OF WHERE THE 6505 CHIP IS ?, CLEAN UP ALL THE SOLDERS IN THAT AREA AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS.


Just in case, can you explain to me where that five dollars fuse you spoke about resides on the Board. ( "D") ? or other board?

Thank you

Respectfully,


Jeff
 
#1,372 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffrey Cohan /forum/post/19713145


Hi

I fixed the seven blinking lights on the Sony 34XBR 800, butnow I am getting three blinking lights. It's probably a bad solder or solder is attaching SOMETHING TO WHERE IT DOESN'T BELONG.


I WILL DE-SOLDER in THE AREA OF WHERE THE 6505 CHIP IS ?, CLEAN UP ALL THE SOLDERS IN THAT AREA AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS.


Just in case, can you explain to me where that five dollars fuse you spoke about resides on the Board. ( "D") ? or other board?

Thank you

Respectfully,


Jeff

3 blinks tend to be bad solder joints or a trace short or maybe chips in backwards. the main fuse is good or you wouldn't get any blinks, it's on the A board where the power cord come's in and multi colored. I have always said it's a good idea to use a magnifying glass to see the solder points and also to put a bright light behind the board to see any solder defects. I have had the 3 blink issue a couple times and it turned out to be bad solder points.
 
#1,373 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtmach /forum/post/19714580


3 blinks tend to be bad solder joints or a trace short or maybe chips in backwards. the main fuse is good or you wouldn't get any blinks, it's on the A board where the power cord come's in and multi colored. I have always said it's a good idea to use a magnifying glass to see the solder points and also to put a bright light behind the board to see any solder defects. I have had the 3 blink issue a couple times and it turned out to be bad solder points.

This happened to me too. How do you safely remove the bad solder joints and trace problems?
 
#1,374 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cajieboy /forum/post/19716209


This happened to me too. How do you safely remove the bad solder joints and trace problems?

I use a flat point screw driver very carefully and at a low angle to prevent damaging the circuit lines, it sounds dangerous but if the solder is on the circuit lines it comes off pretty easy. if you have a trace bridge to another lead or pin the best way is to touch it with the solder gun tip and pull up, the solder tip will act as a wick. I have used the screwdriver way and have had good success, it saved my d board on my 40xbr. I had traces and specs all over the area from using a solder sucker while the board was sideways. the circuit boards have a coating on the solder area's and the solder doesn't really fuse to anything but can cause a short. also in the split second it takes to reach another area the solder has already cooled enough to not make a good connection, that's the same thing that happens on a cold solder joint which is why it's important to make sure the joint is hot enough before removing the solder iron tip. I'm not an expert at this but I was in a band on the road and had to do a lot cord repair's mainly by flashlight under pressure, nothing like a crowd yelling at you when the PA doesn't work to get you motivated.
 
#1,375 ·
Hi to all and a big thanks to Dave R post 108 for location and pictures. My KV34 XBR800 is up and running again after replacing both Ic's and adding new machine pin sockets. I left the D board in place and rotated the TV over to de-solder the IC's using both solder wick and a soldapullt.I also cut the plastic bar out for additional clearance. I did not need a chip puller since I was able to slide a thin screw driver between the board and IC and pry it up ever so gently. I pre-fit the IC to the socket so I would not have any trouble once the socket was soldered in place. I also had my son hold the socket in place since it was now up side down while I soldered a few pins.
 
#1,376 ·
did the IC fix last week on my set and was successfull! Thanks to this forum and all the documentation it went very smooth. The only thing i can add is that I removed the main board completely by also disconnecting the small board at the back of the tube. It was much easier to the rework at a bench...
 
#1,377 ·
Hey guys, I finally ordered my IC's from ebay and hope to get them soon. I have had the 960 unplugged for almost 6 weeks, so im assuming I dont need to worry about ANY electricity being stored.


I dont think I saw specific 960 pics of the two IC's but do I need to set the 960 on its face (front glass facing floor) or can I do everything from the back?


And how much harder is it to remove the entire board, than it is to just work on it while in the case still?
 
#1,378 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by hemogoblin /forum/post/19780172


Hey guys, I finally ordered my IC's from ebay and hope to get them soon. I have had the 960 unplugged for almost 6 weeks, so im assuming I dont need to worry about ANY electricity being stored.


I dont think I saw specific 960 pics of the two IC's but do I need to set the 960 on its face (front glass facing floor) or can I do everything from the back?


And how much harder is it to remove the entire board, than it is to just work on it while in the case still?

I wouldn't worry about any voltage after 6 weeks, Ive done the repair on the same day. Every model could be a little different but the main thing is to do the repair within your comfort level. You might not be able to get to the chips underneath without risking some damage, my hs 420 had a solid mesh underneath the boards so I had to put it in the service position.

I've done it both ways and found getting the board in the service position is safer and easier. review this thread and you will find the steps to get it in the service position without disconnecting the flyback lead or any other leads off the flyback. you will only need to slide the chassis out , disconnect the harness plugs, unhook the connector bridges between the boards and unscrew the screws to get it there. The 2 previous posters did the repair on the first try "good work", but they both did it different, so like I said it depends on your comfort level.
 
#1,379 ·
So I have a KV-34HS510 that stopped working about a month and a half ago. Typical symptoms: it would power on, but seemingly at random give either 4, 6, or 7-blinking lights. I'd frequently try plugging it in after leaving it unplugged for a few days to no avail, but every once in a blue moon the picture would actually come back... for about a minute or two. I really wish I could get it to occur again so I could get it on video since it's hard to describe, but the picture gradually (over the course of about five seconds) goes out of focus while slightly zooming in and dimming, then when it hits black the tube turns off. Afterwards, the same old error codes.


I opened the back of the TV to take a look inside and see if anything was amiss, but nothing seemed strange or out of place. So I ordered a couple of those replacement ICs and went to town taking the old ones out. Here's the strange thing: the new model ICs were in there already! Yes, the MCZ3001DB. I swapped them out for the ones I ordered anyway and made sure there weren't any shorts or cold solder joints.


No dice. Error codes still reign supreme. Some possible caveats may include me moving the TV very frequently (college student) and/or tweaking service menu settings for optimal picture quality (although I hadn't done any adjustments for a while before the TV died). To be honest, unless anybody has any really brilliant ideas for me to try, I want to just get a new Panny Viera and give this TV to somebody who can properly diagnose and fix the problem. I really don't want to just trash the TV because I know it is still a viable repair for someone experienced and dedicated enough--not to mention, I absolutely adored it and it would break my heart to simply throw it away to a junkyard.


tl;dr I changed the ICs but it didn't help and I don't know any other ways to fix my TV. If somebody wants this TV for free and they live in South Carolina or Georgia to take it away, they can.
 
#1,380 ·
Thanks to Mark and all who contributed to this post! I was able to save my KV-40XBR800!


I thought I may have screwed up the repair when I was just about finished. Because of all the posts saying they had bad solder joints I went back and heated each pin again, but on one of them I went a little too long, I melted the pad. I was using a 25 watt soldering iron and I would guess that I only needed 1-2 seconds of heat to melt the solder, I probably went 4-5 seconds on that joint. To fix it, I then had to solder in a small piece of wire to a nearby capacitor. After reassembling the TV it fired up and is working!


So my only advice, don't keep the soldering iron on the joint too long.


Is anyone keeping track of how many have been fixed? When the problem occurred I really thought I would have to get rid of it and spend $1000 for a new TV, but a $30 fix is all that was needed.


Thanks again!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top