You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 58 - AVS Forum
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post #1711 of 1774 Old 08-06-2013, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiquidSnake View Post

For anybody interested, here is the youtube video I was referring to. "Dantheman" in comments, seems very adamant that a third chip is required in order to prevent the other two from failing, yet as you can see, he never returned to give details on the matter. I even sent him a private message after asking on the video page.

That could explain recurring failures after repair. If I found the right comments he said part so #3 could be something as simple as a resistor.
After seeing the video I'd be tempted to just cut the leads of the DIPs up high and solder the new parts to the old leads, then I might not even have to take the board out. Or at least cutting them this way would make it easier to get the bad ICs out of the way and pull the old leads out, solder-suck, etc.

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post #1712 of 1774 Old 08-08-2013, 09:55 PM
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I have a KD-36XBR960 that on power-on blinks 20 times then nothing. Exactly the same as described in post #767. I think de-gauss is working and there's static noise on the back of the set that occurs near the end of the 20 blink sequence so I think HV is working. I've replaced the chips per the 6-7 blink issue which in retrospect has nothing to do with the 20 blinking symptom. Nothing stranger than a ton of dust in the unit. No swollen caps, no brown spots, no loose wires. Still reading the forum but if anyone could point me in the right direction I would be very grateful.

This set appears to be in great condition. It just won't show a picture or sound from the cable input.
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post #1713 of 1774 Old 08-12-2013, 11:15 AM
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Hey, guys.

I envy those of you who know how to solder; if I had these skills, I could fix my "6 blink problem" at little cost.

My Sony KDL32S5100 is only 3 years old and I'm not excited about either throwing it away nor paying $200 to a technician.

In case there is someone in Philly that can change these IC's on the D-board for a hundred bucks, please PM me. I'll order the parts and will bring the TV to you for repair.

Thanks in advance!
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post #1714 of 1774 Old 08-19-2013, 11:30 PM
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EPIC FAIL :-(

Most likely from not knowing how to solder. Anyway, I have resoldered twice to no avail. I still get the 7 blinks.

For anyone trying this, I tried the spring loaded solder sucker....big learning curve with the recoil on that thing.

I also tried the bulb desoldering tool from radio shack....AWESOME. I had the chips out in 5 minutes!

The holes looked clean, I put the sockets in, resoldered best I knew how...and nothing :-(

All the solder videos say to get the hole/component hot enough and let the solder melt to it....I had trouble with that happening.

I would let the iron sit for a few seconds on the socket leg and hole, and then apply solder...but the solder had to touch the iron a bit to actually melt and flow around. All the solders were nice and shiny and looked ok....but this was new to me so I assume I messed something up.

I do recommend putting the board back, reattaching all the plugs, but dont screw anything in place until you know it works...since I have taken the board out twice now to examine my soldering. I may try a third time (I would have done it 10 times by now if I didnt have to wait for the set to discharge...pesky electric shocks and all that.

So MY REAL QUESTION IS: What do I replace this with? It looks like I will need a 46" to replace the 36" wega due to the different aspect ratios....is there anything out there that may look "okay" with a SD cable box??

Thanks!
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post #1715 of 1774 Old 08-20-2013, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hvc700mbuyer View Post

All the solder videos say to get the hole/component hot enough and let the solder melt to it....I had trouble with that happening.

I would let the iron sit for a few seconds on the socket leg and hole, and then apply solder...but the solder had to touch the iron a bit to actually melt and flow around. All the solders were nice and shiny and looked ok....but this was new to me so I assume I messed something up.
Sounds like you didn't have the tip properly "wetted".
A clean tip does not transfer heat to the work as well as a wet tip.
The tip should be hot and clean. Then dab a touch of fresh solder to the tip before heating the joint.

Early on in this thread, a professional TV repairman stated that this IC replacement has a 90% success rate for this 6/7 blink problem.
That means that there is a 1 in 10 chance that the chip replacement will not fix the problem, and the cause is something more complicated.

Regards
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post #1716 of 1774 Old 08-21-2013, 03:12 PM
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It probably isn't clear enough to see but this is what I have....
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post #1717 of 1774 Old 09-04-2013, 08:53 PM
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well guys and gals . I just scored a Sony KV-40XBR800 Television crt model .It seams to work fine but the ex owner told me it will shut off after watching it for sometime and not shut off sometimes . I played for 5 hours last night in my garage to see how she preforms .I have to tell you the picture is very good on it . I was told by the last owner it would flash 7 blinks on the stand by light . I see that the mcz3001d chips can cause that problem . The sony service manual also said something about the thermal resistor opening up too or one other chip of the 5000 series I cant remember which one to be . He also told me that it can get a bur picture too . But I see in the sony service manual it tells me horizontal circuit . Im betting the mcz4001d chips have something to do with it . Let me know your insight on this .
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post #1718 of 1774 Old 09-16-2013, 10:44 AM
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I am having the exact problem as described in post #1690.

<<
I too have the 6 blink failure. It started with the TV taking 2 "on" button pushes to turn on...that lasted for about a week. Then it would not turn on at all....6 blinking lights.
>>

I am planning on having someone come out to repair the TV.
Should I order the two ICs first before I have someone look at it?
Where do I order these from?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
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post #1719 of 1774 Old 09-19-2013, 04:41 PM
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As a follow-up I had a technician out yesterday. He obviously knew what he was doing. He had the two ICs soldered and everything re-assembled in under an hour. It looks like my 960 will be around for a bit longer.
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post #1720 of 1774 Old 09-19-2013, 05:10 PM
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Hi, I have a Sony Wega Trinitron model KV-27FV17 and I can't get a picture on it. The red light just blinks non-stop. Like alot of them it started with a five? Blink code. Eventually it took about 30 seconds to get a picture, then one day nothing. The sound is fine. I have read that I may be able to adjust the screen screw, has anyone done this and how did it work? I don't want to get shocked messing around in the back of the tv. I really loved the picture and sound on it so I'm hoping I can get it to work without it costing too much. Sorry to hijack the thread but the only other thread I could find so far with this tv wouldn't let me post on it.
Any help is appreciated.

Thank you,

Anthony

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post #1721 of 1774 Old 09-25-2013, 04:14 AM
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My Sony KV-40XBR800 Will power on and work for days in days and weeks at a time . Then it will all of the sudden it will out of the blue shut off and flash 7 times , But I can power her back on then about 10 to 30 minutes she will shut off again . If I unplug her over night or for a full 24 hours or so . she will work fine . Im told the two chips are bad in it from the guy that gave it to me . I bought them from ebay for 16.99 with the sockets .But before I do it and waste my time . Im wondering if the 6 nad seven blinks like in this post is my problem . In the sony service manual it said Horizontal Deflection stopped . Im wondering if the chips IC6505 AND IC8002 THE MCZ3001D Chips are at fault and causing the tv to shut down and not turn back on only after I unplug her and she will work for maybe a 10 to 30 minutes or so .I know My fault is on the D board .

.So give me some answers if you can . I seen many people on here talk about it . Oh One more thing To find the chassis ground Im told the tuner is it right . I need to discharge the CRT . I don't want to die doing this . Imgoing to leave it unplugged for like 5 days . I hear that if the tube has not charge in it you can place your arm hairs up to the front of the tube and if they stand up , than its holding a charge . What it the proper way and safe way to discharge the tube , llike the pro's would do. What kind of tool would they use . I heard that and seen many guys use a old screwdriver and wire wrapped and grounded to the chassis ground .
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post #1722 of 1774 Old 09-28-2013, 11:22 AM
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That is the correct fix for 6-7 blinks, the two IC chips. Mine manifested much quicker, in a week it shut off after an hour or two, then soon it did not come onat all. I suggest do not turn the tv off until you are prepared to the fix. I had mine on for 24/7 and then a power outage forced me to try the fix.

I tried the IC chip fix, but it did not work. Leave the TV unplugged for at least 2 days. The solder sucker combo unitwith the orangebulb from radio shack worked great for me to desolder. Slide the board out using the tabs on either side and it makes it easy to get the board out. I used a basic 30w solder iron.
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post #1723 of 1774 Old 10-01-2013, 03:46 AM
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See post #1720

Thanks,

Anthony

I remember when products were built to last.
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post #1724 of 1774 Old 10-01-2013, 04:23 PM
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Hvc700mbuyer@

I have a desolder gun from RadioShack that Im going to unsolder the d board with and I also have temp controlled solder iron from them . I should be ok soldering it . But My television is doing something different that not power on at all and blinking 6 times . Mine is blinking 7 times after the television shuts off too . Like I said you can play the set for two weeks and nothing then all of the sudden it starts to act up and shuts off and blinks seven times . I got some oem sony MCZ3001 D chips off eBay for 13.99 . Im going with OEM chips and not aftermarket chips that can start on fire and blow out the main d board too. Im not going to remove the d boad all the way just so I can get room to solder the new chips in I also have some chip sockets too that Im going to use as well .I really hope it fixes it . If Not im going to have to buya hole rebuilt d board from e compass parts . I think I can still get it .
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post #1725 of 1774 Old 10-28-2013, 08:05 AM
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Sony Bravia 46" KDL-46W3000, 2 Blinks.

 

Google gave me this:

Two blinks- B+ over current protection (OCP), unit goes to the standby mode then displays the 2 blink fault. Could be a short in the power supply of any of the circuits.

 

My current plan:

1) Open it up.

2) Use volt meter.

3) Isolate bad part.

4) Buy board for cheap on ebay.

5) Replace.

6) ???

7) Profit?

 

Attempting to repair TV for the first time, was wondering if anyone had suggestions/tips.

So I have never used a volt meter to determine a bad part, was hoping it was just a bad power supply. What you guys think?

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post #1726 of 1774 Old 11-07-2013, 06:11 PM
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Hi, I have the Sony KV-27HS420 Hi-Scan, and it has problems because the picture flickers/rolls a lot in all the inputs except HDMI. I observed that the menu box isn't affected by the flickering. Plus, in the HDMI input, the colors are just shades of green and red, on the other inputs, the colors are ok, and again the colors of the menu are ok on HDMI. Please I need advice on what's going on with the tv. Do you know if the D-board has to do with this issue?. Thanks in advance.
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post #1727 of 1774 Old 11-15-2013, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floydage View Post

That could explain recurring failures after repair. If I found the right comments he said part so #3 could be something as simple as a resistor.
After seeing the video I'd be tempted to just cut the leads of the DIPs up high and solder the new parts to the old leads, then I might not even have to take the board out. Or at least cutting them this way would make it easier to get the bad ICs out of the way and pull the old leads out, solder-suck, etc.


Floydage, i also have a Sony kv36hs500 and already fixed the 2 Mcz3001D chips one time and after while is doing the intermittent start up again with not fault in the service menu,
i red in a thread that this tech adviced to replace the 2 mcz chips and remove from the board Q6530, but he did not explain why.
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post #1728 of 1774 Old 11-15-2013, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivtec View Post

Floydage, i also have a Sony kv36hs500 and already fixed the 2 Mcz3001D chips one time and after while is doing the intermittent start up again with not fault in the service menu,
i red in a thread that this tech adviced to replace the 2 mcz chips and remove from the board Q6530, but he did not explain why.
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post #1729 of 1774 Old 11-16-2013, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivtec View Post

Floydage, i also have a Sony kv36hs500 and already fixed the 2 Mcz3001D chips one time and after while is doing the intermittent start up again with not fault in the service menu,
i red in a thread that this tech adviced to replace the 2 mcz chips and remove from the board Q6530, but he did not explain why.

So the mysterious third part could be a transistor (Q6530). Did you mean to type 'replace' rather than "remove?" Would seem odd to flat out remove a transistor, or at least not replace it with a jumper or other component.

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post #1730 of 1774 Old 11-16-2013, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floydage View Post

So the mysterious third part could be a transistor (Q6530). Did you mean to type 'replace' rather than "remove?" Would seem odd to flat out remove a transistor, or at least not replace it with a jumper or other component.


Ok i checked out on my KV36HS500 Schematic and Q6530 is in the self Diagnostic circuit ,coming of (ic2300 Main Micro) pin69 Ac RLAY


for what i understand if you remove it, it won't activate the Self diagnostic circuit ,O the Protction circuit.

also for what i understand my tv when i press power some times it won't come out of stand by,if unplug it and plug it back it fires right away the usual intermittent start,
but i bring on the diagnoses screen test, by doing on the remote control, Display, Chan5,Sound Volume-,Power On, i have no fault at all in the screen.
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post #1731 of 1774 Old 11-16-2013, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivtec View Post

Ok i checked out on my KV36HS500 Schematic and Q6530 is in the self Diagnostic circuit ,coming of (ic2300 Main Micro) pin69 Ac RLAY


for what i understand if you remove it, it won't activate the Self diagnostic circuit ,O the Protction circuit.

also for what i understand my tv when i press power some times it won't come out of stand by,if unplug it and plug it back it fires right away the usual intermittent start,
but i bring on the diagnoses screen test, by doing on the remote control, Display, Chan5,Sound Volume-,Power On, i have no fault at all in the screen.



Also learned that by removing and replacing C6510,C8027,C8030,C6532 would solve most of the intermittent starting problems.
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post #1732 of 1774 Old 11-17-2013, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivtec View Post

Ok i checked out on my KV36HS500 Schematic and Q6530 is in the self Diagnostic circuit ,coming of (ic2300 Main Micro) pin69 Ac RLAY


for what i understand if you remove it, it won't activate the Self diagnostic circuit ,O the Protction circuit.

also for what i understand my tv when i press power some times it won't come out of stand by,if unplug it and plug it back it fires right away the usual intermittent start,
but i bring on the diagnoses screen test, by doing on the remote control, Display, Chan5,Sound Volume-,Power On, i have no fault at all in the screen.

So then it appears Q6530 isn't the mysterious third part that could possibly be making the two chips go bad. This procedure is a band-aid for another [what appears to be similar] malady (I take it intermittent rather than permanent like the IC problem). Do at your own risk as a diagnostic/protection circuit is detecting something wrong elsewhere unless something is wrong with the D/P circuit itself.

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post #1733 of 1774 Old 11-17-2013, 05:35 PM
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It makes more sence the C6510,C8027,C8030,C6532 to be the causes of the chips to fale faster!
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post #1734 of 1774 Old 11-18-2013, 08:41 AM
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If those caps are part of the diagnostic/protection circuit, then as with Q6530 probably not the cause of the two-chip failure. I suspect at least two of those are in that circuit by nature of their schematic symbol (65 series).

You wrote before about "removing and replacing" those caps so maybe one or more of those caps goes bad and causes the D/P circuit to produce the intermittent start problem.

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post #1735 of 1774 Old 11-19-2013, 06:06 PM
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hi bro; i also learned that when Changing the 2 chips MCZ3001 also recommends to replace a 1200uf 250 electrolitic cap 105 degreesm
and .1 ohm 1/2 wfr resistor part#12029361
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post #1736 of 1774 Old 11-19-2013, 08:17 PM
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Hi guys, I posted about a sony tv, Post 1720 a while ago. I decided to buy a new Samsung plasma. If anyone has ever done a screen screw adjustment please feel free to post about it. I'll just keep the sony in the garage for a while or just haul it to the junk yard.

Thanks again,

Anthony

I remember when products were built to last.
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post #1737 of 1774 Old 11-19-2013, 10:12 PM
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I love this dialogue.

Bro.
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post #1738 of 1774 Old 11-20-2013, 07:26 AM
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Interesting isn't it. I've had two sony products break in a year. Sony and I are done for a while. Luckily on the last broken product I bought a warranty and got my money back. Sony really has to earn my trust again before I buy another one of their products. My advice is, always buy the extended warranty.

I remember when products were built to last.
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post #1739 of 1774 Old 11-20-2013, 08:15 AM
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Hey ivtec, can you post the reference of where you learned all of this? I think some others here would be interested.

I wonder if that 1200 uF 'lytic cap is connected to the two chips?
Would take some bro-dacious power to blow that resistor and would probably be obvious.

[Looks like they changed the page to widescreen - ugh! Yeah I'm sure everyone has a widescreen monitor AND everyone loves reading and typing on a page in a fashion that resembles watching a tennis match]

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post #1740 of 1774 Old 11-20-2013, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floydage View Post

Hey ivtec, can you post the reference of where you learned all of this? I think some others here would be interested.

I wonder if that 1200 uF 'lytic cap is connected to the two chips?
Would take some bro-dacious power to blow that resistor and would probably be obvious.

[Looks like they changed the page to widescreen - ugh! Yeah I'm sure everyone has a widescreen monitor AND everyone loves reading and typing on a page in a fashion that resembles watching a tennis match]



Product Info

-Shindengen IC, pulse width modulation, 18 DIP

-Same as Sony 670581001, 670335501, and Hitachi CP08451U

-Recommended replacement for MCZ3001D, MCZ3001DA, 875967030

-Used on Sony D board power supplies. Locations IC6001, IC6501, or IC8002.

-Also used on Sony LCD rear projection modules

-Used in models:
KD30XS955, KDF-55XS955, KP46WT520, KV27FV310, KD32FS130, KDF-60WF655, KP51WS520, KV27HS420, KD34XBR960, KDF-60XS955, KP57WS520, KV-29DRC420, KD-34XBR970, KDFE42A10, KV20FS120, KV-29FA310, KD34XS955, KDF-E50A10, KV-21FA310, KV-29FS120, KD-36FS130, KDFE55A20, KV-21FM120, KV-30HS420, KD36XS955, KDFE60A20, KV21FS120, KV-32DX850, KDE55XBR950, KDP51WS655, KV24FS120, KV32FS120, KDF42E2000, KDP57WS655, KV-25FS120, KV-32FS320, KDF42WE655, KE42M1, KV-27FA310, KV32HS20, KDF50WE655, KF-42WE620, KV27FS120, KV-32HS420, KDF55WF655, KF-50WE620, KV-27FS320, KV32HV600, KV32XBR450, KV36FS120, KV36HS420, KV-38FS120, KV-34FS120, KV-36FS320, KV36XBR400, VPLHS20, KV34HS420, KV36HS20, KV-36HS500

-Replacement of the following parts along with the MCZ3001DB IC's is recommended

-.1 Ohm 1/2W Fusible resistor (2 per board). Order 120293361

-1200uF 250V Electrolytic capacitor (2 per board). Order 1200UF250V

- See more at: http://www.tristatemodule.com/p-7979-mcz3001db-shindengen-ic.aspx#sthash.SSYABEe9.dpuf
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