You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 59 - AVS Forum
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post #1741 of 1768 Old 11-21-2013, 08:26 AM
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Thanks ivtec! I take it that's copy&pasted from the aforementioned technician/thread.

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post #1742 of 1768 Old 11-21-2013, 01:26 PM
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I have a 2004 Sony KF60we610 that had the "5 blinking light" issue.  I replaced the thermal fuse, not an easy task as I had to remove the entire Optical Unit to get to the end.  They commented you didn't need to remove the fuse but there was no way to get the fuse end in the correct spot.  That did not solve the problem.  It took 50 times to get the TV to say on.

 

After more reading it looked like the G1 board was bad, however you can't get those for little $ or you must send in for repair. After many hours of reading, it looked as though the ic1601 was the problem, 17 Volts not supplied.  I ordered the 18 pin mcz3001db ($8.00).  After using ChipQuick, 30 W soldering iron and paste flux, I was able to loosen the part.  The location on the board makes it hard to cut leads so I just crushed it with pliers.  With patience, I was able to remove all the old solder and leads. I replaced the chip,plugged it back in and now it works great.  Note, there are 4 connections of the G1 board to the Main board.

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post #1743 of 1768 Old 11-22-2013, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Floydage View Post

Thanks ivtec! I take it that's copy&pasted from the aforementioned technician/thread.


No i got from the http://www.tristatemodule.com/p-7979-mcz3001db-shindengen-ic.aspx#sthash.SSYABEe9.dpuf
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post #1744 of 1768 Old 11-23-2013, 11:41 AM
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Gotcha. Man they're really 'marketing' for this problem. wink.gif

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post #1745 of 1768 Old 11-25-2013, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by fkie View Post

Hi, I have the Sony KV-27HS420 Hi-Scan, and it has problems because the picture flickers/rolls a lot in all the inputs except HDMI. I observed that the menu box isn't affected by the flickering. Plus, in the HDMI input, the colors are just shades of green and red, on the other inputs, the colors are ok, and again the colors of the menu are ok on HDMI. Please I need advice on what's going on with the tv. Do you know if the D-board has to do with this issue?. Thanks in advance.

Please, help me, any advice will be greatly appreciated. Even the front input has the issue. Do you think it has to do with the input board or the processing image board?
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post #1746 of 1768 Old 11-27-2013, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Floydage View Post

Gotcha. Man they're really 'marketing' for this problem. wink.gif

Hi Floydage: today i opened a hole on the side about 12 inches square by cutting the plastic to gain access to the Mcz30001 chips,and i thought i had extra chips but i don't ,so i have to order them but Tristate is out of stock! do you know somewhere else with good reputation? also i noticed also the C6501 is a little bulging so that one has to be changed for sure
so it seems that the advice given when changing the chips so change the caps and the resistors and that's what I'm gonna do.
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post #1747 of 1768 Old 11-27-2013, 05:27 PM
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Wow ivtec, that's some serious serviceability access you've created! biggrin.gif That reminds of the ol' Quasar 'works in a drawer' TVs that were designed to be repaired because TVs broke all the time in that era (and hence the sell-out to Japan). Now I have drilled holes in the back of TV cabinets that didn't give me access to the HV transformer pots (why no access?! mad.gif ).

Anyhow, no I've never bought any of those chips but have seen posts with vendor links. Try 'Search This Thread' using that part number as the keyword. Might also do the same after backing up one step into the main CRT thread.

Sounds like good advice changing those other parts, especially since it was shown by a vendor. Maybe some of the other vendors have more info too.

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post #1748 of 1768 Old 11-27-2013, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Floydage View Post

Wow ivtec, that's some serious serviceability access you've created! biggrin.gif That reminds of the ol' Quasar 'works in a drawer' TVs that were designed to be repaired because TVs broke all the time in that era (and hence the sell-out to Japan). Now I have drilled holes in the back of TV cabinets that didn't give me access to the HV transformer pots (why no access?! mad.gif ).

Anyhow, no I've never bought any of those chips but have seen posts with vendor links. Try 'Search This Thread' using that part number as the keyword. Might also do the same after backing up one step into the main CRT thread.

Sounds like good advice changing those other parts, especially since it was shown by a vendor. Maybe some of the other vendors have more info too.



Well i ordered 4 mcz3001 from amazon.com 44bucks,and i have a Sony kv36hs500 Chassis that i found on the scrap that some time ago someone damped a Sony tv on the side of the road since i could not carry the whole thing i just took out the chassis with all the boards,i guess it probably suffered the same symptoms,so tomorrow I'm gonna take out the 1200 uf cap and resistor .1 ohm 1/2 and test them if they are ok just swapped them.

here a few instructions

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=MCZ3001D&tbm=isch
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post #1749 of 1768 Old 11-28-2013, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivtec View Post

i have a Sony kv36hs500 Chassis that i found on the scrap that some time ago someone damped a Sony tv on the side of the road since i could not carry the whole thing i just took out the chassis with all the boards,i guess it probably suffered the same symptoms

What's that guy doing on the side of the road over there? biggrin.gif
I saved the chassis from my '93 RCA 31" Home Theater TV as a degauss 'module' for my '93 GE 27" TV (similar Thomson chassis). The GE degauss circuit fried and so whenever I reorient its position I have to manually degauss it with the RCA chassis.

So did you find the resistor blown in combination with a bad cap? (i.e. do they blow in tandem?).

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post #1750 of 1768 Old 11-28-2013, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fkie View Post

Please, help me, any advice will be greatly appreciated. Even the front input has the issue. Do you think it has to do with the input board or the processing image board?

Since you're not having much luck here I'll say that if it were me I'd find another one on Craigslist. I see these and other similar 27" CRTs all the time for free or really cheap. 27" is the limit of my lifting ability and I purchased a small furniture dolly for about $10. Did this for an RCA 27" (HD AND built-in HD tuner) I got for free plus a Sony KV-20FS120, and the guy even carried them out to my van while I was getting the dolly out (big guy was in a hurry and dinner was about ready biggrin.gif ); I was actually going for the little Sony and told them I would go ahead and take the RCA, only to find out when I got home that the RCA was HD. Nice surprise!

Anyhow good luck and I didn't want to step on your new thread over yonder.

Happy Thanksgiving to all!

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post #1751 of 1768 Old 11-28-2013, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Floydage View Post

Since you're not having much luck here I'll say that if it were me I'd find another one on Craigslist. I see these and other similar 27" CRTs all the time for free or really cheap. 27" is the limit of my lifting ability and I purchased a small furniture dolly for about $10. Did this for an RCA 27" (HD AND built-in HD tuner) I got for free plus a Sony KV-20FS120, and the guy even carried them out to my van while I was getting the dolly out (big guy was in a hurry and dinner was about ready biggrin.gif ); I was actually going for the little Sony and told them I would go ahead and take the RCA, only to find out when I got home that the RCA was HD. Nice surprise!

Anyhow good luck and I didn't want to step on your new thread over yonder.

Happy Thanksgiving to all!
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Originally Posted by Floydage View Post

What's that guy doing on the side of the road over there? biggrin.gif
I saved the chassis from my '93 RCA 31" Home Theater TV as a degauss 'module' for my '93 GE 27" TV (similar Thomson chassis). The GE degauss circuit fried and so whenever I reorient its position I have to manually degauss it with the RCA chassis.

{So did you find the resistor blown in combination with a bad cap? (i.e. do they blow in tandem?).[/}

Nothing blew yet i don't want that , that's why i already ordered 4 MCZ3001 from Amazon.com , and 2 1200uf 250v caps and 2 .1ohm 1/2 resistors, i'm gonna replace the 2 MCZ23001 chips in conjunction with resistors and Capacitors, hoping this time it will last more then 13 months,


(What's that guy doing on the side of the road over there?}
well here in the Usa when some people don't know how to repair their tvs, and don't want to pay the city hall to pick them up for recycle have to pay ( 12bucks}, then they damp their tvs somewhere in the hidden corner, it's against the law,
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post #1752 of 1768 Old 11-29-2013, 01:55 PM
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ivtec - indeed, better safe than sorry. Was just trying to see if you observed any causal relationship between R and C (C causing R to blow).

Yeah I despise illegal dumping, we all pay for it via taxation not to mention ground water and visual pollution. Stupid that they can tote it somewhere to dump when all they had to do was take it to Best Buy (well free only up to 32"); may be other retailers too and I've heard about free electronic recycle businesses. I would be surprised if that city wouldn't have a free drop-off system like here (I wish we had the $12 pick-up service here for the bigger TVs). Hey at least you prevented one of the 'dirtier' sections of the TV from contaminating your ground water. smile.gif

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post #1753 of 1768 Old 11-29-2013, 02:30 PM
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I've seen that before. People leave a tv by the road and the vultures swoop in for parts. Usually they just create a big mess. I should leave my sony on the grass and watch it on our cctv system then make a video to post on the net. Lol

I remember when products were built to last.
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post #1754 of 1768 Old 12-01-2013, 04:58 PM
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I've seen that before. People leave a tv by the road and the vultures swoop in for parts. Usually they just create a big mess. I should leave my sony on the grass and watch it on our cctv system then make a video to post on the net. Lol



Usually they just create a big mess

Not me i always take all the parts i need and close the back.
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post #1755 of 1768 Old 01-15-2014, 09:23 PM
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I have a KV32HS500.

 

Picture was fine before it disappeared.

 

Had the 6 blink, won't turn on problem.

I replaced the 2 IC and sockets.

 

TV turned on fine, but there was no red color.

 

I tried regular antenna, auxiliary, Video in from DVD. None had red color.

 

But, if I click on "Split Screen" the right screen has full color, the left one missing red.

If I go back to full screen from the right screen that has full color, the red is not there.

 

When I click on "Menu" The "Color" and "Hue" menus have red, but the underlying picture is still missing red.

 

I tried "Reset", holding down reset button on remote, and power on set. It reset but didn't fix the missing red.

 

Any ideas??

 

Thanks

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post #1756 of 1768 Old 01-16-2014, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srbz View Post

I have a KV32HS500.

Picture was fine before it disappeared.

Had the 6 blink, won't turn on problem.
I replaced the 2 IC and sockets.

TV turned on fine, but there was no red color.

I tried regular antenna, auxiliary, Video in from DVD. None had red color.

But, if I click on "Split Screen" the right screen has full color, the left one missing red.
If I go back to full screen from the right screen that has full color, the red is not there.

When I click on "Menu" The "Color" and "Hue" menus have red, but the underlying picture is still missing red.

I tried "Reset", holding down reset button on remote, and power on set. It reset but didn't fix the missing red.

Any ideas??

Thanks

Before what disappeared?

Are you saying it lost red after you replaced the two IC's? If so, Murphy's Law says something didn't get hooked back up right. I recall those IC's are for power supply/start-up/protection so I'm guessing it's somewhere else (i.e. a circuit board or cable you had to move/remove to gain access).

The PictureANDPicture stuff tells me it's the main input circuit; a secondary input circuit is used for the second P&P. Menu stuff is independent of the input circuit. The good news is that the TV is still generating red.

Check the module where the input connectors' cables end - specifically how the module connects to the chassis, its control&power supply wires, and output connections.

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post #1757 of 1768 Old 01-16-2014, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floydage View Post

Before what disappeared?

Are you saying it lost red after you replaced the two IC's? If so, Murphy's Law says something didn't get hooked back up right. I recall those IC's are for power supply/start-up/protection so I'm guessing it's somewhere else (i.e. a circuit board or cable you had to move/remove to gain access).

The PictureANDPicture stuff tells me it's the main input circuit; a secondary input circuit is used for the second P&P. Menu stuff is independent of the input circuit. The good news is that the TV is still generating red.

Check the module where the input connectors' cables end - specifically how the module connects to the chassis, its control&power supply wires, and output connections.

Yes, the red disappeared after replacing two ICs.

I just took it all apart again, lifted up the D board and carefully reassembled making sure all connections were tight.

Same problem.

I took a wood paint stick and prodded various connections and wires to see if something else was loose, but no.

I'm not sure what you mean by "the module where the input connectors' cables end - specifically how the module connects to the chassis".

Any ideas

Thanks for your help
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post #1758 of 1768 Old 01-17-2014, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srbz View Post

I'm not sure what you mean by "the module where the input connectors' cables end - specifically how the module connects to the chassis".

There should be a circuit board, and most likely in a shielded box, where those cables go.

Other than that resolder and check the two IC work, especially making sure multiple pins didn't get solder blobbed together. Since you used sockets, check conductivity between each IC pin at top of the IC and the circuit board connection.

Hopefully nothing got static zapped.

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post #1759 of 1768 Old 01-22-2014, 07:41 AM
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Sadly I've had to dispose of my 34" Sony XBR800 CRT as I've got builders coming in to replace all my windows soon and I would have had to be shifting the TV around a lot, which is impossible for me on my own.

However, I removed all the boards from it first, so if anyone is interested in buying them, please have a look at my classfied listing for further details.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1513409/sony-xbr800-boards-seeking-provisional-offers-to-be-considered
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post #1760 of 1768 Old 04-19-2014, 01:07 PM
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I too am having the same problems with the tv not coming on and the standby light is blinking. anyone know how to fix it. the first time I unplugged it and waited about four or five hours and plugged it up and it worked. but the next day it did it again and now it will not turn on.

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post #1761 of 1768 Old 04-19-2014, 04:41 PM
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That's what this thread is all about. Take a step back in time. smile.gif

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post #1762 of 1768 Old 05-02-2014, 06:39 AM
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My KV-32HS510 starting showing the 7 blink diagnostic code and would usually work with the hair dryer method.  After reading all the posts I replaced both mcz3001db chips on the D board using sockets.

 

Now when i power on the set I hear a relay click and immediately get 3 blinks of the standby light onetime, then another click of the same relay.  Based on what I've read this is not a diagnostic code, but I can't find any information on what this means.  I pulled the d board back up and resoldered the connections, and pulled the mcz3001db ic's out to make sure there were no bent legs.  The only thing I haven't done is reinstalled the back on the set, but I can't see anywhere there is a safety that would keep it from powering on.  I have service manual but nothing is mentioned about this condition that I can see.

 

Can anyone offer advice on where to start?

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post #1763 of 1768 Old 05-12-2014, 07:38 PM
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I am happy to report that after following the extremely helpful instructions, especially posts # 108-111, I was able to revive my 12-year old Sony KV-34XBR800 after it had developed the dreaded 6-blink problem.

As instructed, I purchased the chips and sockets, and all the tools that were required and then, by a stroke of genius, I asked a good friend for help. Turns out, in one of his first jobs, he used to repair circuit boards for a living and was really good at it,and so between the two of us - we were able to get the job done in about 60 minutes.

If I had to do it myself I must admit I would have had trouble with putting the socket-mounted chips securely

in the right spots. Even with good lighting and with the TV on its face - I first tried to put them in myself and

wasnt having much luck. My friend, on the other hand, sailed through it after having made sure the socket pins

were dead-straight,and that they went right in.

Phew! Another CRT behemoth saved from landfill,and Im hoping to have a few more years of its use, especially the powerful subwoofer-based XBR sound.

Thank you again for this great thread and all the helpful advice.

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post #1764 of 1768 Old 05-31-2014, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floydage View Post

That's what this thread is all about. Take a step back in time. smile.gif

OK, here's a step back.

 

I have Trinitron KV-27EXR25 that recently died.  While it was on, the screen suddenly blinked off.  I think the red power light would blink when I tried to turn it on, but by the time it occurred to me to count the blinks, the light no longer came on.  It still clicks, but that is all.

 

I opened it up and slid the main board assembly back for a look.  No obvious bulging or burned capacitors, and the fuses test good.

 

What is the next step to troubleshoot it?

 

-Kennon

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post #1765 of 1768 Old 05-31-2014, 04:37 PM
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No I meant the desired info is within the content of this thread over and over and over again. I think folks have tired of rewriting the 'wheel' and CRT is a dying subject. But GL!

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post #1766 of 1768 Old 06-24-2014, 03:43 PM
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I have a Sony KD-34XRB960 that is still pretty much work perfect. However every week or two for a day the TV blacks out for just a few seconds, then when the picture and sound comes back on I see in the upper left Video 6 or 7 in my case, and in the lower left full for screen mode. some times the winking out is so quick the picture and sound never go out but the Video 6 or 7 just pops up and the Full, for screen mode.

It does this even when all components are unplugged. Seems the audio and video just drop out for a second. I really like this TV and it's been a loooooong time since I have worked on a TV, I am talking pre HD and earlier.

Need some ideas as to what could be happening.

I can simulate the problem by unplugging the device I am using, plug it back in and there is the Video and Full on the screen. Just like when I first power it up. I am not losing power though, at least not in the main power supply.

I did a self diagnosis, there were no error codes. I would like to know how many times should a working 960's red led's should blink, from the time you power on until there is picture and sound...

Thanks

Last edited by gary777; 06-24-2014 at 03:51 PM.
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post #1767 of 1768 Old 06-30-2014, 01:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gary777 View Post
I have a Sony KD-34XRB960 that is still pretty much work perfect. However every week or two for a day the TV blacks out for just a few seconds, then when the picture and sound comes back on I see in the upper left Video 6 or 7 in my case, and in the lower left full for screen mode. some times the winking out is so quick the picture and sound never go out but the Video 6 or 7 just pops up and the Full, for screen mode.

It does this even when all components are unplugged. Seems the audio and video just drop out for a second. I really like this TV and it's been a loooooong time since I have worked on a TV, I am talking pre HD and earlier.

Need some ideas as to what could be happening.

I can simulate the problem by unplugging the device I am using, plug it back in and there is the Video and Full on the screen. Just like when I first power it up. I am not losing power though, at least not in the main power supply.

I did a self diagnosis, there were no error codes. I would like to know how many times should a working 960's red led's should blink, from the time you power on until there is picture and sound...

Thanks
It's been a while since I had my xbr, had to break down and get new flat panel TV (yes I cried when I trashed it ). But if I remember correctly it should only flash once or twice while the degausser kicked in and that is a long flash (or maybe was a real quick flash) so not to confuse with a problem flash. Someone can correct me if they still have a good working or remember better. Now if it is taking longer then usual for the screen to come on or the degausser is taking longer to do it job it could be the degausser that is in fault and could also causing the "flash" on the corners of the screen. Could also be the tube getting ready to crap out.

Hope this helps and anyone else still following this thread can correct me if I am wrong or incorrect in any info...

Again THANKS to all the support in keeping this thread going. Actually thought this thread would have died a few years back now. Glade to see someone has one of those tube TVs they are still using.
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post #1768 of 1768 Old 06-30-2014, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Goetz View Post
It's been a while since I had my xbr, had to break down and get new flat panel TV (yes I cried when I trashed it ). But if I remember correctly it should only flash once or twice while the degausser kicked in and that is a long flash (or maybe was a real quick flash) so not to confuse with a problem flash. Someone can correct me if they still have a good working or remember better. Now if it is taking longer then usual for the screen to come on or the degausser is taking longer to do it job it could be the degausser that is in fault and could also causing the "flash" on the corners of the screen. Could also be the tube getting ready to crap out.

Hope this helps and anyone else still following this thread can correct me if I am wrong or incorrect in any info...

Again THANKS to all the support in keeping this thread going. Actually thought this thread would have died a few years back now. Glade to see someone has one of those tube TVs they are still using.
Did your 960 die or did you just want a bigger set? Thanks for the info. I PMd another member who still has his 960 that is working fine, he said his blinks 11 times, from power on button being pushed until there is sound and picture. That's what I am also getting.

Thank you for replying. If you want another 960 and live in California he has his up for sale in the classified section.


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