You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 61 - AVS Forum
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post #1801 of 1808 Old 10-31-2014, 12:42 PM
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I've read several many posts on this problem and performed the repair on my KV-32HS10 using sockets for the 2 MCZ3001's on the D board . Now when I press the power button I hear a relay click and then click off again after about 3 seconds. The power LED blinks once or twice during the first click, but then does not blink an error code after the second. I put the original IC's back in (in the sockets) and it does the same thing, leading me to believe that it's not getting through the startup process far enough to give the error. It even does the same if neither of the IC's are installed in the sockets on the D board.

I've used an ohm meter to verify the pins of the socket are connected to the pads on the board, and looked everywhere for a solder bridge or drop with a magnifying glass and can't see anything wrong. I have a background in electronics and digital circuits.

Any idea on where I can start now? I don't want to give up on it.
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post #1802 of 1808 Old 11-02-2014, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cact34r View Post
I've read several many posts on this problem and performed the repair on my KV-32HS10 using sockets for the 2 MCZ3001's on the D board . Now when I press the power button I hear a relay click and then click off again after about 3 seconds. The power LED blinks once or twice during the first click, but then does not blink an error code after the second. I put the original IC's back in (in the sockets) and it does the same thing, leading me to believe that it's not getting through the startup process far enough to give the error. It even does the same if neither of the IC's are installed in the sockets on the D board.

I've used an ohm meter to verify the pins of the socket are connected to the pads on the board, and looked everywhere for a solder bridge or drop with a magnifying glass and can't see anything wrong. I have a background in electronics and digital circuits.

Any idea on where I can start now? I don't want to give up on it.
What do the tops of the two large black capacitors look like? Are they bowed out at all? I had this problem when just replacing the sockets/chips, but one of my caps was bowed out pretty good (bad) and the underneath part of the solder/board looked brown/burnt. Ordered the caps and will begin repair next weekend. Crossing my fingers...

Too many toys, not enough dough!
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post #1803 of 1808 Old 11-03-2014, 06:48 AM
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I will take a look at them tonight. I just did the repair on my main set (same problem developed 2 weeks ago) and it was successful, but I didn't remove the board. I did the work with the TV resting on it's screen and it was much easier.
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post #1804 of 1808 Old 11-22-2014, 08:35 PM
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I have a tv Sony Trinitron XBR (KV-34XBR800). The tv does not turn on; the LED red l

I have a tv Sony Trinitron XBR (KV-34XBR800). The tv does not turn on; the LED red light flashes 7 times most of the time; it flashed 6 times repeatedly in one occasion. Is my tv problem exactly the same as yours? Should I follow all the steps you have showed? I am not very good with electronics, and this is my first time to fix an electronic. What is the difference between the IC's and MCZ3001D you have mentioned? Should I still use the Dremmel and soldering iron in my case? Can't I just simply pull out the defective IC's or MCZ, and put in the new ones? Please help. Thank you.
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post #1805 of 1808 Old 11-22-2014, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by tunein8 View Post
I have a tv Sony Trinitron XBR (KV-34XBR800). The tv does not turn on; the LED red light flashes 7 times most of the time; it flashed 6 times repeatedly in one occasion. Is my tv problem exactly the same as yours? Should I follow all the steps you have showed? I am not very good with electronics, and this is my first time to fix an electronic. What is the difference between the IC's and MCZ3001D you have mentioned? Should I still use the Dremmel and soldering iron in my case? Can't I just simply pull out the defective IC's or MCZ, and put in the new ones? Please help. Thank you.
Had the same problem with my previous Sony 40 inch XBR. Had to have a Sony authorized tech come by and take it out for repairs and brought it back. I am not knowledgeable to do any technical repairs myself. The Sony authorized tech said it is a common Sony problem ...and the "board" he called it needed to be repaired or replaced. The final cost to me: (if I remember correctly) was $160.00. But worth it to me since I can't do any of this myself. Anyway after another 1 year with the set (and nothing else ever went wrong with my display ever again) I decided to move the set to my Bedroom and upgrade to the Sony 4K 65 inch 850A for my Living Room and that set I have since it was released 1+ year ago.
I only buy Sony's...had my first XBR when they first came out...many,many years ago.....
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post #1806 of 1808 Old 11-23-2014, 09:21 AM
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Kd-34xs955

Has anyone tried this repair kit - Sony KD34XS955 Blinking Light Repair Kit - from TvRepairKits.com?
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post #1807 of 1808 Old 11-26-2014, 06:24 AM
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Has anyone tried this repair kit - Sony KD34XS955 Blinking Light Repair Kit - from TvRepairKits.com?
Or, any one of their other kits to address this problem? Just looking to get a sense of their product's efficacy and their support. Thanks.
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post #1808 of 1808 Old Today, 06:51 PM
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In making use of the particular solder sucker, When i first resolder the particular ICs hip and legs -- therefore i see it liquify. I then solder the end with the straightener using a small bead of solder, place the solder fool in place, use the tip from the straightener towards the lower leg and also launch the actual solder sucker. In the case of the particular kv32hs510 board, the particular pockets are only partly soldered from the board and make it simpler to remove compared to through the particular table coated holes which usually occasionally whick the solder all the way the lower leg of the nick. The key is releaseing the solder push over as the solder is fluid rather than getting it snazzy jerk aside while sucking.
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