You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 61 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1801 of 1824 Old 10-31-2014, 11:42 AM
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I've read several many posts on this problem and performed the repair on my KV-32HS10 using sockets for the 2 MCZ3001's on the D board . Now when I press the power button I hear a relay click and then click off again after about 3 seconds. The power LED blinks once or twice during the first click, but then does not blink an error code after the second. I put the original IC's back in (in the sockets) and it does the same thing, leading me to believe that it's not getting through the startup process far enough to give the error. It even does the same if neither of the IC's are installed in the sockets on the D board.

I've used an ohm meter to verify the pins of the socket are connected to the pads on the board, and looked everywhere for a solder bridge or drop with a magnifying glass and can't see anything wrong. I have a background in electronics and digital circuits.

Any idea on where I can start now? I don't want to give up on it.
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post #1802 of 1824 Old 11-02-2014, 04:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cact34r View Post
I've read several many posts on this problem and performed the repair on my KV-32HS10 using sockets for the 2 MCZ3001's on the D board . Now when I press the power button I hear a relay click and then click off again after about 3 seconds. The power LED blinks once or twice during the first click, but then does not blink an error code after the second. I put the original IC's back in (in the sockets) and it does the same thing, leading me to believe that it's not getting through the startup process far enough to give the error. It even does the same if neither of the IC's are installed in the sockets on the D board.

I've used an ohm meter to verify the pins of the socket are connected to the pads on the board, and looked everywhere for a solder bridge or drop with a magnifying glass and can't see anything wrong. I have a background in electronics and digital circuits.

Any idea on where I can start now? I don't want to give up on it.
What do the tops of the two large black capacitors look like? Are they bowed out at all? I had this problem when just replacing the sockets/chips, but one of my caps was bowed out pretty good (bad) and the underneath part of the solder/board looked brown/burnt. Ordered the caps and will begin repair next weekend. Crossing my fingers...

Too many toys, not enough dough!
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post #1803 of 1824 Old 11-03-2014, 05:48 AM
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I will take a look at them tonight. I just did the repair on my main set (same problem developed 2 weeks ago) and it was successful, but I didn't remove the board. I did the work with the TV resting on it's screen and it was much easier.
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post #1804 of 1824 Old 11-22-2014, 07:35 PM
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I have a tv Sony Trinitron XBR (KV-34XBR800). The tv does not turn on; the LED red l

I have a tv Sony Trinitron XBR (KV-34XBR800). The tv does not turn on; the LED red light flashes 7 times most of the time; it flashed 6 times repeatedly in one occasion. Is my tv problem exactly the same as yours? Should I follow all the steps you have showed? I am not very good with electronics, and this is my first time to fix an electronic. What is the difference between the IC's and MCZ3001D you have mentioned? Should I still use the Dremmel and soldering iron in my case? Can't I just simply pull out the defective IC's or MCZ, and put in the new ones? Please help. Thank you.
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post #1805 of 1824 Old 11-22-2014, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by tunein8 View Post
I have a tv Sony Trinitron XBR (KV-34XBR800). The tv does not turn on; the LED red light flashes 7 times most of the time; it flashed 6 times repeatedly in one occasion. Is my tv problem exactly the same as yours? Should I follow all the steps you have showed? I am not very good with electronics, and this is my first time to fix an electronic. What is the difference between the IC's and MCZ3001D you have mentioned? Should I still use the Dremmel and soldering iron in my case? Can't I just simply pull out the defective IC's or MCZ, and put in the new ones? Please help. Thank you.
Had the same problem with my previous Sony 40 inch XBR. Had to have a Sony authorized tech come by and take it out for repairs and brought it back. I am not knowledgeable to do any technical repairs myself. The Sony authorized tech said it is a common Sony problem ...and the "board" he called it needed to be repaired or replaced. The final cost to me: (if I remember correctly) was $160.00. But worth it to me since I can't do any of this myself. Anyway after another 1 year with the set (and nothing else ever went wrong with my display ever again) I decided to move the set to my Bedroom and upgrade to the Sony 4K 65 inch 850A for my Living Room and that set I have since it was released 1+ year ago.
I only buy Sony's...had my first XBR when they first came out...many,many years ago.....
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post #1806 of 1824 Old 11-23-2014, 08:21 AM
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Kd-34xs955

Has anyone tried this repair kit - Sony KD34XS955 Blinking Light Repair Kit - from TvRepairKits.com?
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post #1807 of 1824 Old 11-26-2014, 05:24 AM
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Has anyone tried this repair kit - Sony KD34XS955 Blinking Light Repair Kit - from TvRepairKits.com?
Or, any one of their other kits to address this problem? Just looking to get a sense of their product's efficacy and their support. Thanks.
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post #1808 of 1824 Old 02-11-2015, 03:28 AM
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New member and resurrecting this topic for others trying to fix their tv.

A few months back, I purchased a 2002 Sony KV-32HV600 [DA4] chassis , that after about a week developed 7 blinking lights and TV would not turn on intermittently. I could generally hit ON repeatedly and it would eventually turn on , but that was getting to be a bit of an annoyance.

After doing some reading online including here, I decided to tackle the issue by replacing the IC6501 & IC8002 chips which are said to be the most common problem.
I ordered new MCZ3001DB chips with IC sockets from an ebay user back in Nov/'14 and finally got around to installing them yesterday. After a careful partial removal of D board and wire braid and solder sucking the joints I was able to remove the 2 IC's, [ not an easy task, and some fiddling around even after de-soldering] I then carefully installed the new sockets and soldered them in place as per the original IC's, then installed the new IC's.

I now get 3 blinking lights and the TV will not turn on period. Installed the old chips in the new sockets, same issue.
Did some further reading in this thread and see that this issue may be caused by faulty IC6505, part # SE-140N .
My question is do I even bother at this point ?

The TV is just shy of 170 Lbs., on the 2nd floor , master bedroom , on a dresser 4.5 ft. high so if remove it , it's gone !

My venture into the world of Sony began last October when my purchased new, 1995 Panasonic CT-27SF22T1 went belly up for third time in 3 years [ring fractures on the A board and vertical hold chip] so my repairman finally said enough was enough. Personally I think the Panansonic had better black picture tube , but the Sony has such great sound that it is hard to simply write it off.

Then again I could simply put my spare Panasonic CT-32SF12 on the dresser and be done...


** On a side note, I liked this Sony so much that I found another KV-32HV600 with matching stand for our cottage. Works great for now , Knock on wood !
That tv though the same model does not have the exact same sound system , no WOW feature as the one that's down. Never looked at the chassis number on earlier or later production ?
The bass is not as boomy on the cottage TV. I'll have to check the year and chassis number next time I am there.
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post #1809 of 1824 Old 02-11-2015, 05:05 AM
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On the 3 blinks issue, After doing some further reading I see that T603 and R672 could be the culprit as well ?
Part numbers for those ?

Location of IC6505 ?

thanks guys !
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post #1810 of 1824 Old 02-11-2015, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gurn View Post
That tv though the same model does not have the exact same sound system , no WOW feature as the one that's down. Never looked at the chassis number on earlier or later production ?
The bass is not as boomy on the cottage TV. I'll have to check the year and chassis number next time I am there.
Maybe retrofit the sound board? Maybe the speakers too. Hopefully not the cabinet (#/size of speakers and acoustics). Of course there could be an issue with audio software if it's not fully contained in the sound board.

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post #1811 of 1824 Old 02-12-2015, 04:42 AM
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Maybe retrofit the sound board? Maybe the speakers too. Hopefully not the cabinet (#/size of speakers and acoustics). Of course there could be an issue with audio software if it's not fully contained in the sound board.

I have the SE-104N transistor for IC6505 coming in the mail today, gonna pop it in and cross my fingers. I've checked my work 4 times on the 6501 & 8002 , If this new one doesn't fix it, I am considering a new "D" board or just wait and find another HV600 .

If I can't resolve the HV600's issues this afternoon , I am probably gonna take it apart and save the audio portion or simply rob parts off of it for the other for when the inevitable happens to it.

I think the WOW was a later feature (?), but I am no Sony expert. I don't know the exact model numbers but I also have a 24 & 27 " in this same serious, they have the same silver/charcoal arched front housing and both have WOW, sure those are both 2004's . One is a bedroom tv the other for gaming at the cottage. Both were free.


I had someone willing to give me an XBR900 something before the holidays, but after going through the hell I did finding 2 stands for the HV600's , I believe I will stay the course on the 32's for now.

I will post my results this afternoon, fingers crossed !!
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post #1812 of 1824 Old 02-12-2015, 09:01 AM
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I had an RCA Home Theater that had this fancy Hughes SRS audio board/module. Later I came across a plain jane version of this RCA and it looked like the Hughes would plug into it; the software part I don't know.

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post #1813 of 1824 Old 02-12-2015, 11:01 AM
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No go

SE-104N installed and still have 3 blinks. Went over my socket install a 4th time and cant find anything . Unless the guy on ebay sold me bad MCZ3001DB's , I give up..

Time to pull it apart and the rest to the dump... Love the tv, but done messing with it. Just cant see spending $150 for a new "D" board when the tv cost me $25.
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post #1814 of 1824 Old 02-12-2015, 11:54 AM
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RIP. GL with the parts you keep and the audio mod if you take that on.

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post #1815 of 1824 Old 02-14-2015, 11:37 AM
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Odd how things work..

I just found and picked up a beat up KV-32HS500 which utilizes the same D board as my HV600. I am gonna swap the D boards out.

Big question, two of the 3 leads from the flyback can be removed , one red one appears as though it can only be cut to disconnect. Are these leads press fit or is there a release pin on the flyback ?
Can I simply solder it back together after cutting and double heat shrink the splice ?
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post #1816 of 1824 Old 02-14-2015, 12:49 PM
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Odd how things work..

I just found and picked up a beat up KV-32HS500 which utilizes the same D board as my HV600. I am gonna swap the D boards out.

Big question, two of the 3 leads from the flyback can be removed , one red one appears as though it can only be cut to disconnect. Are these leads press fit or is there a release pin on the flyback ?
Can I simply solder it back together after cutting and double heat shrink the splice ?
If you're referring to the big thick wire that goes to the side of the picture tube (anode) with the funky rubber boot, then no they're molded to the best of my knowledge. The extreme high voltage arcs too easily for sloppier connections and requires heavy duty insulation. 'Maybe' there's HV specialty repair items that can be bought specifically for splicing these.
What you need to do is take it off at the funky rubber boot at the picture tube. First use a grounded screwdriver to reach under the boot and discharge it. Then you grab the butt part of that boot and it pulls out. It clamps into a hole tight and can be a little tough, wiggle it a little too while pulling. May have to assist 'a little' with the screwdriver from under the boot.

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post #1817 of 1824 Old 02-14-2015, 12:58 PM
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there are 3 wires that come off the flyback.
The one up to the tube which I have removed in the past without a grounded driver [eesh] dont have one.
There is a thinner white wire with connector up to the back of the tube board , and then there is a red wire same diameter that goes to a ceramic block same board which does not have a clip, this is the one I need to cut.
It's that or re-use the flyback on the new board ?
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post #1818 of 1824 Old 02-14-2015, 01:28 PM
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The one up to the tube which I have removed in the past without a grounded driver [eesh] dont have one.
I don't understand this. I'm thinking you're referring to a different transformer than I'm thinking about. I guess if it's a skinny wire than it won't matter as long as a solid and well-soldered connection insulated heavily. Sounds like you can't unsolder from the board or ceramic block, like it is all an assembly.

Yeah I've discharged the anode without grounding with a well-insulated screwdriver. Better safe than sorry when telling others though.

Gotta go...

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post #1819 of 1824 Old 02-14-2015, 07:49 PM
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My flyback has 3 wires coming from it. The thick one goes up to the crt tube, and a then 2 about half as thick, a white and also red which go to the same board on the back of the crt tube. The white has a plug but the red does not.
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post #1820 of 1824 Old 02-15-2015, 06:49 AM
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SUCCESS ! Well sort of anyway .

The people I got the donor from complained that the set would not turn on all the time , but were quick to say that they had it in the coldest room in the house, which made me think about the hairdryer trick many have spoken about.
I tested the KV-32HS500 last night and got a bunch of codes. 4, then 6, then it would blink continually once every second until I unplugged the unit.
This led me to believe I could be in for more headaches simply swapping the D boards out.

Impatient, I got a wild hair this morning after doing some reading about removing the thin red and white wires from the flyback. They do NOT need to be cut, they do pull out of the unit with a little effort.
I then decided before changing out the common problem IC's or installing sockets [ Unit still has the original MCZ3001D chips] in the donor HS500 "D" board, that I'd put it in my HV600 to see what codes would come up .

To my surprise the set came on, but I still get a 4 blink code followed by 1 rapid blink.

So I think for now,I am going to leave well enough alone and run the set until I absolutely have to do something. Though these sets are obviously issue loaded & potential money pits, I love this damn thing and am going to purchase a "D" board from Sears for the inevitable.

Bonus is that I was able to snag the speakers , sub, most of the harnessing,and the tactile button boards . Not sure what else I'd take as it appears as though the other code is related to the A board. Further, I believe that due to the HS500 having a different DRC pallette configuration [ 500 is auto ? , 600 is manual,? ] that the only other board I'd want is the audio and I have no idea where that is , or if it is worth pulling.

It will be a shame to trash the tube on the HS500...

Just ran the self diagnosis screen/test and all values 2-10 [101]come up at Zero. I would imagine after the repair the set will have to be used a while to wait or check for now errors ?

Last edited by Gurn; 02-15-2015 at 07:49 AM. Reason: added info
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post #1821 of 1824 Old 02-17-2015, 08:35 AM
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Apparently good things don't last with Sony....

2 days in, and this is what Ive got..

This morning TV wont turn on without using the hairdryer trick..

The other issue that irks me is during a tv commercial that has a white background the screen will shift towards a green background slowly, then correct its self to a degree. This was happening before the board change.

Put it into service mode and have this:

2: +B OCP =0
3: +B OVP =0
4: V Stop =1
5: AKB1 =0
6: LOW B = 1
7: H-STOP =1
101: WDT24 =0

Got the manual online this morning, glad it was free as the [print is so damn small I cant make jack out. Gonna replace IC5004 to hopefully correct the 4 blink.

then the 2, MCZ3001DB's without sockets .

If that doesn't work, I believe I am done messing with anything made by Sony.
What a joke.

Last edited by Gurn; 02-17-2015 at 12:20 PM.
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post #1822 of 1824 Old 02-17-2015, 03:09 PM
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Istalled sockets and New MCZ3001DB [7 blink] IC5004 [4blinks]

What are the chances that all of the above are bad ? went through 4] of the MCZ3001db's


When done got 3 blinks.... Installed IC6505 for the 3 blink code.... went through 3 of those checking... I still have 3 blinks and it won't turn again ....Can't enter Service mode either..

The work on the donor board is flawless, borderline factory looking.
I quit...


This, the donor set, and the 3 at the cottage are all going to the dump before I have a damn coronary.
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post #1823 of 1824 Old 02-18-2015, 10:36 AM
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Do you know what the 3 blink code represents per Sony or someone knowledgeable of the codes?

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post #1824 of 1824 Old 02-19-2015, 06:52 AM
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Three blinks - B+ over voltage protection (OVP), unit goes to the standby mode then displays the 3 blink fault. This is also a problem in the power supply circuit, check T603 and R672.


http://electronicshelponline.blogspo...dby-light.html
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