You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 1774 Old 06-29-2008, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by johnc_22 View Post

Yeah, like I said, Sears claims to have the entire D-Board in stock for less than $200 so if I can figure out how to remove it I may go that route. I'm tempted to try soldering it, but frankly I live in a condo and that behemoth of a set in a non-functioning state is going to be a constant PITA until it's repaired or replaced so my patience is limited. I will look at the other thread to see if I can figure out how to remove the D-Board and how the slide out assembly works. I build my own computers so replacing a board doesn't scare me as much as resoldering chips.

I read that unplugging the red flyback cable from the tube itself is possible but if I replace the entire D-Board I guess I'll need a new cable unless the kit comes with it.

Thanks for all your advice.

Replacing the D-Board is much like replacing a motherboard in a PC. In fact, it's a bit easier since you don't have to remove and replace things like memory and video and sound cards.

On the red flyback wires, some have been able to just pull them out of the flyback. I couldn't quite bring myself to apply the amount of force needed for that as I was concerned that I would break off something inside the flyback. But that might work for you.

In my case, I disconnected the thicker red wire at the other end where the anode cap is mounted on top of the CRT. And I ended up cutting the other, thinner, red wire that runs up to the yoke mounted C-Board. I then spliced that back together after replacing the ICs.
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post #182 of 1774 Old 06-29-2008, 11:58 PM
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If anyone's interested, the easiest way I found to access the MDZ IC's was to slide the plastic chassis out a bit so I could access the screws holding the D-board down, unscrewed them and unplugged all the clips and connectors. I couldn't go wrong as all the connectors on my set had different pin counts and it was impossible for me to plug a connector into the wrong place.

I unscrewed the small triangular audio board on the side and moved it so it wasn't in the way then gently picked the D-board up, slid it out the side and stood it on it's end with the FBT leads still attached. You can then access the underside of the board easily.

If I could fix the TV without having to unplug the FBT connector on the back of the tube then all the better. I've heard you can damage things if it isn't done properly plus I haven't done it in years and didn't want to risk anything.
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post #183 of 1774 Old 06-30-2008, 01:50 PM
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I just had a couple of guys from a local Atlanta repair shop come over for $50. Everyone else wanted $95 just to come over and "look". They showed me how to take the board out, verified that everything was discharged, and said "fix it yourself". So, I'm getting ready to get the replacement board from Sears. I'll be in trouble if their site is lying about the availability of the part because I'll probably have to pull the board and then see about getting it repaired which will cost a similar amount. The new D-Board is a safer bet to fix any underlying problem causing the ICs to fail (if that in fact is what has failed). This was $50 well spent because I now feel much better about DIYing a new board.

Thanks for all the help and advice. I will report back as this progresses. Of course if the new board gets the tv set working I will then feel better about going at the old one with a soldering iron to see if I can possibly repair it for about 2-3 years from now when it craps out again.
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post #184 of 1774 Old 06-30-2008, 02:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by email4eric View Post

Hello,

Firstly, great contributions from all--this is what makes the internet a powerful tool! It's nice to see so many like-minded individuals who avoid throwing things away.

My Sony KB-36XBR400 is now an adolescent "with issues." My questions involve making sure that I understand what the TV is telling me.

Scenario: The set is off and NOT on standby. When turning-on the set using the power button on the set, the light comes-on and blinks 6 and one half times before staying on--that is there are no repeating blink patterns. I assume the staying-on state of the light after the blinking sequence is the set going to standby mode. There is no sound and no picture.

Anyone know what this means? After reading this thread, it appears that these trouble lights appear for folks in a repeating pattern. Mine are not repeating.

Another question that I have involves the degaussing sound "bwump" that is heard when powering-up. Mine was doing that while experiencing the above scenario but now is no longer doing even that. I now only hear some clicks when attempting to power-on. Does this mean more bad things have developed beyond the original problem?

I should also mention that originally, the set would sometimes not power on so I started leaving it on and just interrupting the cable feed when not in use (effectively keeping the set on). This worked for months until the set conked-out completely. Then I could turn it on (no picture, no sound) and hear the bwump sound and get the 6.5 flashes and then steady light. Now I get no bwump and the 6.5 flashes before the steady light.

Just trying to understand what the set is "telling me" prior to delving into chip replacement or board swapping. I'm in graduate school and can't afford to replace the set or have someone else fix it. Plus, I hate throwing things away and pride myself on fixing that which most would throw away. In fact, I got this set for a couple of hundred bucks and like the idea of keeping it going. I haven't seen much that equals the PQ.

Advice? I do have some Sears gift certificates that would make replacement boards practical if the set is worth throwing money at it.

Thanks up front! Great thread of knowledge here.


My first and most important question is....
When the TV is powering up, you say you hear the deguassing and the light blinks then, correct??
This happens on mine every time I turn it on (didn't notice before simply because I never paid attention. lol), but is normal. The trouble blinks should occur after that process. And should repeat from then on or until you turn off or unplug.
Second question...
Have you tried to unplug overnight and see what it does the next day? This has sometimes temporally fixed problem, but is by no means a permanent fix .

I hope this helps
Good Luck


PS: As for secstate problem. I agree with buying a newer version from CL or Ebay (personal preference). As it is true you have to trust the seller, but would be a better bargain then fixing a 12 year old TV. To each their own.
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post #185 of 1774 Old 06-30-2008, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnc_22 View Post

I just had a couple of guys from a local Atlanta repair shop come over for $50. Everyone else wanted $95 just to come over and "look". They showed me how to take the board out, verified that everything was discharged, and said "fix it yourself". So, I'm getting ready to get the replacement board from Sears. I'll be in trouble if their site is lying about the availability of the part because I'll probably have to pull the board and then see about getting it repaired which will cost a similar amount. The new D-Board is a safer bet to fix any underlying problem causing the ICs to fail (if that in fact is what has failed). This was $50 well spent because I now feel much better about DIYing a new board.

Thanks for all the help and advice. I will report back as this progresses. Of course if the new board gets the tv set working I will then feel better about going at the old one with a soldering iron to see if I can possibly repair it for about 2-3 years from now when it craps out again.

Good luck with the replacement D-Board order through Sears! Hopefully their inventory system is up to date for your particular D-Board. Earlier in this thread another forum member ordered an XBR700 D-Board from Sears but they credited him when it turned out to be out of stock.
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post #186 of 1774 Old 07-02-2008, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Goetz View Post

My first and most important question is....
When the TV is powering up, you say you hear the deguassing and the light blinks then, correct??
This happens on mine every time I turn it on (didn't notice before simply because I never paid attention. lol), but is normal. The trouble blinks should occur after that process. And should repeat from then on or until you turn off or unplug.
Second question...
Have you tried to unplug overnight and see what it does the next day? This has sometimes temporally fixed problem, but is by no means a permanent fix .

I hope this helps
Good Luck


PS: As for secstate problem. I agree with buying a newer version from CL or Ebay (personal preference). As it is true you have to trust the seller, but would be a better bargain then fixing a 12 year old TV. To each their own.

Well...no--I no longer have any degaussing sound. Also, my flashing light goes through one cycle and then either stays on solid or goes out. The fact that it isn't repeating is what I'm trying to figure-out. What does that mean? Does anyone know what the fact that it no longer degausses means?

I have indeed tried the leave-it-unplugged-overnight approach to no avail. When pressing the power on button, I simply get a coupld of clicks with 6.5 blinks of the light. The the light stays on if I'm powering up manually and turns off if I'm using the remote.

Just trying to figure-out if this is the usual D board problem or something worse. Thankfully, there are about 15 of these used on CL for a couple of hundred. Just a PITA to move and dispose of...

Thanks!
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post #187 of 1774 Old 07-07-2008, 04:33 PM
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Hello,

I have already replaced both IC's to no avail. The tv show similar symptoms where I turn it on, the screen has a blue hue then blooms to full blue screen then shuts off. This is followed by the 7 blink code. Any ideas before I chuck this beauty?
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post #188 of 1774 Old 07-07-2008, 04:59 PM - Thread Starter
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hmmmmm

I was thinking a fuse, but don't think it would come on at all?????
I did read somewhere else, someone had a similar problem. Although I can't seem to remember where and what the fix was (sorry! old age lol)....
As soon as it comes to me I will post.

The 6.5 flashes are not a code, it will flash fully 6 or 7 times (2-7 flashes are code. and will flash repeatedly with a 3sec. pause between the code flashes and will give 1 code at a time, until fixed that is, if more then 1 problem).

I believe the problem is on the d-board (could be wrong though). I believe it has to do with the high voltage/fly-back transformer. But don't take my word for it ... If you can get one off CL (same model or very similar). Then it may be worth hanging onto for spare parts (if you got room to keep it).


Good Luck with it or in your search for replacement. Sorry, couldn't be more help. And sometimes it just isn't worth it (for the fact that unless you can find a repair tech to look at and/or fix for a good price. I say it may not be worth the guess that any certain part or board could be the problem And it certainly isn't worth the money and MAY NOT be the fix).


I really hated saying that. I really don't like to hear that any of these TVs went to landfill!!!!
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post #189 of 1774 Old 07-07-2008, 05:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricanmeng View Post

Hello,

I have already replaced both ICs to no avail. The tv show similar symptoms where I turn it on, the screen has a blue hue then blooms to full blue screen then shuts off. This is followed by the 7 blink code. Any ideas before I chuck this beauty?

I would first say....
Check and recheck everything. Soldering, connectors/jumpers (depending on how you got to ICs), everything.
Also, it is possible you got a bad IC .
Did you install sockets and order extra IC or two?
And you say you replaced "both" ICs. Their is another one on the A-board (depending on model) that could be the cause, too.

Not saying this is the problem to start with, but is a good possibility it is one of them. As 7 blinks indicate Horizontal Deflection Stopped and the manual does not give a possible cause .


Good Luck and hope this helps
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post #190 of 1774 Old 07-07-2008, 05:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by email4eric View Post

Well...no--I no longer have any degaussing sound. Also, my flashing light goes through one cycle and then either stays on solid or goes out. The fact that it isn't repeating is what I'm trying to figure-out. What does that mean? Does anyone know what the fact that it no longer degausses means?

I have indeed tried the leave-it-unplugged-overnight approach to no avail. When pressing the power on button, I simply get a coupld of clicks with 6.5 blinks of the light. The the light stays on if I'm powering up manually and turns off if I'm using the remote.

Just trying to figure-out if this is the usual D board problem or something worse. Thankfully, there are about 15 of these used on CL for a couple of hundred. Just a PITA to move and dispose of...

Thanks!




Also........................
You may want to post a new thread with the problem (if you haven't). As it doesn't seem to be giving you code flashes. Someone may know the problem that isn't checking here, because I really don't believe your getting any code flashes.

Again, Sorry!!! I couldn't be more help to you
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post #191 of 1774 Old 07-07-2008, 06:13 PM
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I have checked my connections and tested for any shorts. I also have 5 IC's altogether to play with. I am afraid she will be laid to waste in the landfill. I love CRT's and she will be missed. Onward to dark greyish blacks and all so trend WAF.
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post #192 of 1774 Old 07-07-2008, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Ricanmeng View Post

I have checked my connections and tested for any shorts. I also have 5 IC's altogether to play with. I am afraid she will be laid to waste in the landfill. I love CRT's and she will be missed. Onward to dark greyish blacks and all so trend WAF.


Before giving up altogether, you might want to check out the Television Troubleshooting forum over on Agoraquest.com:

http://agoraquest.com/viewforum.php?forum=34

Try several forum only searches with your model number and/or the symptoms and see what you can find:

http://agoraquest.com/searchbb.php

And you might also want to post a request for help in that forum with a descriptive thread title. (Put the model number in the title along with a short description of the symptoms.)

For motivation, just remember that if you can fix it you won't have to move it.

Good luck!

Bob
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post #193 of 1774 Old 07-07-2008, 07:36 PM
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I received my D-Board this afternoon from Sears. They did in fact have it in stock. I went about replacing it with very little drama. The new board did NOT come with flyback or focus cables so all three cables (on my set there is the large red flyback cable, small red cable and small black or blue cable) had to be forcibly removed from the FBT. Only the flyback cable was really hard to remove, the other two came right out with a decent amount of force. Installed the new board, plugged everything back in and . . . PICTURE!

I will say the set now has some display artifacts (horizontal wavy thin lines) that are only visible when really close to the set, and only in SD (4x3) mode where you have side black bars to notice such things. Additionally the upper left corner (from the from of the TV) seems to have drooped a tiny bit. I think I've also lost some focus. Frankly with what this set has been through, I'm just happy that it is usable. HD looks good but maybe not as sharp as it once was - I'll have to watch more to decide how it really looks as I'm exhausted right now. If anyone has suggestions on how to sort out these issues I'll be willing to try them. For the short term I will let it be as I'm done messing with it and don't feel like unscrewing 17 screws to get to the innards again any time soon.

Total repair cost: $200 for d-board delivered and $50 for some advice on how to dismantle everything. I also have the old d-board and if I want at some point I can try my hand at soldering that, but at this point, if the TV dies again, it's history.
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post #194 of 1774 Old 07-08-2008, 06:31 AM
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As a followup to my previous email about my new d-board working, I thought I'd post a representation of the lines that I'm seeing on the screen when on a VIDEO input that is unused. On VIDEO5 where I have my Comcast DVR, it looks like the attached image. On the other inputs the lines are twice as dense (twice as many lines).



Is this interference from something? Perhaps the flyback cable is not correctly inserted into the tube (I did have to remove it and reinsert it, after the set had been powered off for a few days). I tried to take a picture but was too sleepy to take the time to get a good exposure.

Are there any procedures that I should follow after replacing the d-board to restore image quality, or do I need to dig into the service menus for this. Thanks for all the helpful info!

John
LL
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post #195 of 1774 Old 07-08-2008, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnc_22 View Post

As a followup to my previous email about my new d-board working, I thought I'd post a representation of the lines that I'm seeing on the screen when on a VIDEO input that is unused. On VIDEO5 where I have my Comcast DVR, it looks like the attached image. On the other inputs the lines are twice as dense (twice as many lines)....Is this interference from something? Perhaps the flyback cable is not correctly inserted into the tube (I did have to remove it and reinsert it, after the set had been powered off for a few days). I tried to take a picture but was too sleepy to take the time to get a good exposure.

Are there any procedures that I should follow after replacing the d-board to restore image quality, or do I need to dig into the service menus for this. Thanks for all the helpful info!

John

This may be a Screen(G2) adjustment issue. Looking at the flyback transformer from the rear, there are 3 adjustment screws. The TOP one is center focus, and the bottom LEFT is G2. Make very small adjustments to G2 while viewing the black screen and adjust until the lines just disappear. If no change is observed, return the adjustment to its original position.

Be Careful of the High Voltages. Don't touch anything on the flyback transformer (except for the screw, with an insulated screwdriver) or the wires connected to it while the set is powered on. Good Luck

Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin
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post #196 of 1774 Old 07-08-2008, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raouliii View Post

This may be a Screen(G2) adjustment issue. Looking at the flyback transformer from the rear, there are 3 adjustment screws. The TOP one is center focus, and the bottom LEFT is G2. Make very small adjustments to G2 while viewing the black screen and adjust until the lines just disappear. If no change is observed, return the adjustment to its original position.

Be Careful of the High Voltages. Don't touch anything on the flyback transformer (except for the screw, with an insulated screwdriver) or the wires connected to it while the set is powered on. Good Luck

Thanks - very helpful. I'll probably hold off until this weekend before I take it apart again. I want to collect any recommendations for things that must be done inside the set before I take it apart and put it back together (17 screws is a bit excessive).

Would the "center focus" that you mention above affect the overall sharpness of the picture, particularly in 16:9 aspect? I may just be paranoid but I seem to have lost some sharpness. I also noticed a bit of green shadow on the VIDEO 5 text. These were quick observations by someone in a hurry to get to bed. I'll make more careful observations when I'm at home tonight and watching a good bit of TV.
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post #197 of 1774 Old 07-08-2008, 08:02 AM
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I've read previously that there is set specific calibration data stored on an "EEPROM". So it might also be that your calibration data is off since you replaced the entire D-Board.

Here's one discussion of this over on Agoraquest that I found via Google:

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic....d2=electronics

Specifically, here's what forum member jehill wrote:

Here's what Sony has to say about it in the training manual:

"Even if old data is transferred, the component tolerances for the drive circuits are different for each board and you will have to re-converge the set anyway. Install the new board and perform the convergence adjustments. Static alignments will be minimally affected and only dynamic adjustments will need to be touched up."
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post #198 of 1774 Old 07-08-2008, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertF View Post

I've read previously that there is set specific calibration data stored on an "EEPROM". So it might also be that your calibration data is off since you replaced the entire D-Board.

Here's one discussion of this over on Agoraquest that I found via Google:

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic....d2=electronics

Specifically, here's what forum member jehill wrote:

Here's what Sony has to say about it in the training manual:

"Even if old data is transferred, the component tolerances for the drive circuits are different for each board and you will have to re-converge the set anyway. Install the new board and perform the convergence adjustments. Static alignments will be minimally affected and only dynamic adjustments will need to be touched up."

Re-converge would mean realigning the 3 (RBG) guns? Is this something a novice such as I can/should attempt? Is this a service menu adjustment or a physical adjustment on the rear of the tube? Now I know why people get paid a lot of money to do this!
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post #199 of 1774 Old 07-08-2008, 01:00 PM
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I'm not sure what exactly "re-converge" means. Perhaps another forum member here can help.

And jehill is still an active member on Agoraquest if you want to post a question there. (You could even respond in the thread I linked above.)

Good luck!

Bob
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post #200 of 1774 Old 07-08-2008, 07:38 PM
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i religiously read this thread over and over. i have a 34xbr800 with the 7 blinking lights. i oredered the revised ic chips, had a friend take out the old chips and replace with sockets. new chips came in and......................bam!!!!
brand new tv. works great. instead of trying to find the defective chip,i replaced both. you guys saved this tv from the trash. by the way, i left the d board in and just flipped the tv on its face and sides to desolder. i had to cut away a piece of plastic to access the underside of the circuit board.
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post #201 of 1774 Old 07-08-2008, 07:52 PM
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i religiously read this thread over and over. i have a 34xbr800 with the 7 blinking lights. i oredered the revised ic chips, had a friend take out the old chips and replace with sockets. new chips came in and......................bam!!!!
brand new tv. works great. instead of trying to find the defective chip,i replaced both. you guys saved this tv from the trash. by the way, i left the d board in and just flipped the tv on its face and sides to desolder. i had to cut away a piece of plastic to access the underside of the circuit board.

Congratulations on your successful repair! Another high end CRT saved from a landfill.

Others have also been able to replace the ICs with the board in place. Nice work with that.
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post #202 of 1774 Old 07-08-2008, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
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I've read previously that there is set specific calibration data stored on an "EEPROM". So it might also be that your calibration data is off since you replaced the entire D-Board........

I believe the Non-Volatile Ram (NVRAM/EEPROM) that stores service menu data is on the B/BY board.

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post #203 of 1774 Old 07-09-2008, 08:47 AM
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I went through and performed some service menu fixes last night for overscan. I've wanted to do that to this set for a long time, and I guess now that I have performed pretty major surgery on the set I'm not nearly as hesitant about messing around in the service menus (having read a LOT of stuff on this site beforehand).

I do think I'm going to have to open it up and mess with the FBT Green/Screen(?) (G2) and Focus screws. I'm assuming that I shouldn't expect any arcing from high voltage parts, and will be safe so long as all I touch are those two screws? Any other precautions I should take? Wear rubber gloves? Any screwdriver I use will have a plastic or rubber handle so I'm assuming that I just need to be careful what I touch but should be OK. (Please tell me if I'm wrong!)

Based on what I've seen on the picture, the G2 (it's labeled "Green" on the FBT, but I also see it called "Screen" in some places) is out of whack. The white text on VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2, etc has a greenish tint, and the black levels are not what they were. Additionally I have the display artifacts represented by the image I posted previously in this thread, though from my normal seating position they are very difficult to see, and when in 16x9 mode, impossible to see except during very dark portions of a program or movie.
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Originally Posted by johnc_22 View Post

I went through and performed some service menu fixes last night for overscan. I've wanted to do that to this set for a long time, and I guess now that I have performed pretty major surgery on the set I'm not nearly as hesitant about messing around in the service menus (having read a LOT of stuff on this site beforehand).

I do think I'm going to have to open it up and mess with the FBT Green (G2) and Focus screws. I'm assuming that I shouldn't expect any arcing from high voltage parts, and will be safe so long as all I touch are those two screws? Any other precautions I should take? Wear rubber gloves? Any screwdriver I use will have a plastic or rubber handle so I'm assuming that I just need to be careful what I touch but should be OK. (Please tell me if I'm wrong!)

Based on what I've seen on the picture, the G2 (it's labelled "Green" on the FBT) is out of whack. The white text on VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2, etc has a greenish tint, and the black levels are not what they were. Additionally I have the display artifacts represented by the image I posted previously in this thread, though from my normal seating position they are very difficult to see, and when in 16x9 mode, impossible to see except during very dark portions of a program or movie.

Thanks for the update.

Did you see any improvements with the service menu adjustments?

And how difficult did you find that process?
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post #205 of 1774 Old 07-09-2008, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by RobertF View Post

Thanks for the update.

Did you see any improvements with the service menu adjustments?

And how difficult did you find that process?

Well, the only changes I affected were overscan, and yes, that made a huge difference on some HD content where I felt like things were being cut off. Of course everything (mainly comcast's channel guide and 4x3 content) looks "smaller" which of course it is because I shrunk it in both directions to make it all (almost all of it) visible. I used the DVE pattern to get it just under 5% overscan. It was obviously a much larger amount before I tweaked it. I do need to use a pattern which will help me detect whether the aspect ratio is correct or not since an adjustment here obviously throws that out of whack. The 4x3 content is now looking more 4x4 (or 1x1) than 4x3 so I think I've probably got some more tweaking to do there.

I also messed with the center focus and other related parameters but did not see any visible improvement so I did not save those settings.

Overall, I think if you read up on what you are doing, and how to do it (as far as how the remote works in conjunction with the service menus) it's a very easy process. But then I write software for a living so I'm ususally not too afraid of getting down into the nitty gritty details when necessary.

I will say I'm still a bit hesitant about messing with the G2 and FOCUS screws on the FBT, only for fear of electrocuting myself, but I guess I'll go for it this weekend some time since G2 is likely the cause of the (what I now believe to be) rescan lines that I'm seeing on black backgrounds. The black levels look way off as well, perhaps greenish, so again, I suspect that G2 adjustments here may help a lot in that area. We'll see, assuming I don't get zapped.
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post #206 of 1774 Old 07-10-2008, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by johnc_22 View Post

I will say I'm still a bit hesitant about messing with the G2 and FOCUS screws on the FBT, only for fear of electrocuting myself, but I guess I'll go for it this weekend some time since G2 is likely the cause of the (what I now believe to be) rescan lines that I'm seeing on black backgrounds. The black levels look way off as well, perhaps greenish, so again, I suspect that G2 adjustments here may help a lot in that area. We'll see, assuming I don't get zapped.

You will be pretty safe as long as you don't touch anything metal. The whole FBT including the adjustment knobs are plastic (well mine are anyways) so the chance of electrocution are slim. Just make sure you make slight adjustments - just be careful, if you turn them too far it may or may not damage the set.

I'd still get hold of a flat head long plastic screwdriver and use that though instead of your fingers, just in case

I've fiddled with FBT's before on other sets and I'm still alive.
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post #207 of 1774 Old 07-10-2008, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamcazman View Post

You will be pretty safe as long as you don't touch anything metal. The whole FBT including the adjustment knobs are plastic (well mine are anyways) so the chance of electrocution are slim. Just make sure you make slight adjustments - just be careful, if you turn them too far it may or may not damage the set.

I'd still get hold of a flat head long plastic screwdriver and use that though instead of your fingers, just in case

I've fiddled with FBT's before on other sets and I'm still alive.

Thanks for the encouraging words. I think I'm going to swing by Lowe's or Home Depot before getting started to get an insulated screwdriver (the ones I've seen are good to 1000V). Looking at the D-Board I removed, it does appear that the adjustment screws are plastic so I think I'll be OK. An ounce of prevention . . . etc.
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post #208 of 1774 Old 07-11-2008, 04:30 AM
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I have a XBR100 that will not turn on. I get the flashing standby light but there is no code. The light just continues to flash with no pause. First time it happened just unplugged it for awhile and then it came back on. This time it will not come on again. I have some of the extra tuners and tried them but no help. Anyone have any ideas?

Im probably going to advertise this on CraigsList for free at this point. So if you live in So. California let me know.
I already had this TV fixed a couple of years ago so it is not worth doing again to me.
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post #209 of 1774 Old 07-11-2008, 06:14 AM
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I have a XBR100 that will not turn on. I get the flashing standby light but there is no code. The light just continues to flash with no pause. First time it happened just unplugged it for awhile and then it came back on. This time it will not come on again. I have some of the extra tuners and tried them but no help. Anyone have any ideas?

What's the full model number of you TV?

Other than the failure prone MCZ3001D ICs, I would check the Agoraquest.com Television Troubleshooting forum for posts about your particular model. (I'm not even sure if your XBR100 even has the MCZ3001D ICs.)

My understanding is that the standby indicator blink sequences need to repeat in order to be a diagnostic code. But someone else may have reported the same problem for your model along with a solution.

Good luck!
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post #210 of 1774 Old 07-11-2008, 06:57 AM
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It is the KV-32XBR100. It is the one that has the separate tuner box.

I did go over to that website but couldnt find anything.
My standby light has no pattern.............just keeps flashing.
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