Sony KV-34HS510 Will Not Turn On - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 49 Old 04-25-2008, 11:36 PM
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RobertF,

I read all your posts related to 6 blinks. I bought 2 MCZ3001DB from sony and installed the ICs in 18-pin sockts.

Now I have a different problem: It went from 6 blinks to 3 blinks. It blinks 3 times and goes off.

I might have made a mistake while installing the 1st IC: installed it upside-down. Then I corrected it.

Do you think a new set of ICs will do the job or 3 blinks mean something else is the problem? Thanks for any help.

Regards,
Saru
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post #32 of 49 Old 04-26-2008, 09:01 AM
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If you powered the set up with the IC inserted backwards you may have damaged it. I would recommend rechecking the soldering and maybe getting another IC. Good Luck

Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin
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post #33 of 49 Old 07-04-2008, 05:51 AM
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My Television alternates between 7 and 4 blinks. So it sounds like I need to replace the two IC's that are being talked about. My only concern is all that voltage that is stored within the CRT. Do I need to discharge that CRT? If I do, can you provide some guidance on how to do it? I have had a couple electronics courses in College, so I do know some things about this. When I hear from you all that I can fix this on my own for less then $20, it makes me determined to do it myself rather than spending $300+.

Any help would be SUPER appreciated.
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post #34 of 49 Old 08-21-2009, 08:39 PM
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Thank You!
My television had the 7 blink failure. I replaced the two MCZ3001DB chips with new chips and 18 pin sockets. Some things I thought I could add to this thread are: I didn't have to remove the D board from the set. I was able to do this by letting the back of the TV hang over the side of a table when desoldering and standing it on the front when solderinig. This required the removal of part of the plastic frame that D board is mounted to (the forward chip is partially covered on the underside). A dremel was used to cut part way through the plastic leg which I then snapped off with a plier. I also used a desoldering iron to remove the chips. This was quicker and easier than cutting the pins and removing them 1 at a time or using soldering wick. As for the chips having an updated version my set had MCZ3001DB which I replaced with MCZ3001D chips. From what I can tell either chip will work. Also the direction of the chips is marked by a half moon indent on one side. On my set these were to the left viewing the set from the back. The total time it took for the repair was about 1 hour and the television is working like before.
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post #35 of 49 Old 08-22-2009, 06:28 PM
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Hi there

Quote:
Originally Posted by bomelia View Post

A fellow over at FixYa keeps telling me this repair will not last... that there is an upstream problem that casues the ICs to fail in the first place.

His comment may have some merit. I have a Sony HT pre-amp/processor that failed. The symptoms matched a common power supply problem of this model, and a web site dedicated to this Sony model mentions replacing a few opto-couplers and diodes that typically fix this "failure". Did the replacements, and the pre/pro work okay for another 10 months. Then the same failure, and did the same repair again. Except the 2nd repair lasted only a week before the failure appeared a third time. Obviously there is another issue causing these power supply failures.

The problem I see in taking a device into a repair shop is that the shop is likely to do just the "quick fix" like just replace the two ICs. If that "solves" the customer's immediate complaint, then the "repair" is done, and the shop makes a nice profit on the typical flat-rate charge. When a shop charges a flat repair rate, there is no incentive to go looking for underlying causes. If the shop is charging by the hour, the customer will balk at paying for more time.

Regards
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post #36 of 49 Old 12-01-2009, 03:23 PM
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Where does one order the chips and 18hole slots from? Please and thank you
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post #37 of 49 Old 12-01-2009, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delvinh2003 View Post

Where does one order the chips and 18hole slots from? Please and thank you

Hi there

A web search for "MCZ3001D" or the "MCZ3001DB" should return a lot of possible sources.
eBay and TriState Module, TSM, are often used. I've used TSM.

The "you have a Sony that won't power on ..." thread in this sub-forum is dedicated to this repair topic. You might want to read/study as much of that thread as possible before you do anything, especially if you haven't performed any other electronic repairs.

BTW it's "socket", not "slot".

Regards
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post #38 of 49 Old 12-01-2009, 11:27 PM
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bdent.com is my source for the MCZ3001DB and Radio Shack has the 18 pin DIP sockets.
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post #39 of 49 Old 01-02-2010, 08:33 PM
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Okay, it's seems as if I've been reading for days about this common D-board failure. Here is my experience with the 6x flashing stanby LED. First, as in all the threads that I have read. The problem has been identified by others as possibly being the two IC's, IC8002 and IC6501. Well, they have had creditable success with replacing these two IC's with the newer chip having the "DB" suffix.

I have had the same 6x flashing LED issue. I have replaced the two IC's with the new chips having the "DB" suffix (using sockets). The television still doesn't power on. One noticeable difference is that the LED is no longer flashing but seems to be normal. When pressing the power button everything else is the same, relays click in and then out with no attempt of powering on.

I have double, triple checked everything (cables, connections, soldering) and nothing looks or seems.... hmmm, well, messed up.

Does anyone have any other suggestions or thoughts regarding my set?
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post #40 of 49 Old 01-04-2010, 12:01 AM
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Check for cut traces if you cut the plastic frame, poor soldering in your new work, a forgotten connector plug, those tricky hinge connectors to the A board.
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post #41 of 49 Old 01-17-2010, 02:23 PM
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I would just like to thank this forum for helping me repair my 8 year old Sony KV-34HS510 HDTV. I recently started having the 6 blinks and it wouldnt power on. After reading this forum I ordered 2 chips and 2 sockets from ebay for 10 dollars and was able to fix my TV. I was able to unscrew the D board and leave the flyback wires and the anode leads attached and was able to flip the board up to desolder the chips. Thanks again
LL
LL
LL
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post #42 of 49 Old 01-17-2010, 06:48 PM
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Nice soldering job! Good to hear about your success!
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post #43 of 49 Old 03-01-2010, 07:59 AM
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Time to resurrect this thread from the dead!
Hey, good chaps, where can I buy these ICs from? I've got the same tv with the blinking lights and all not powering on.

edit:
n/m didn't see the second page!
so which two ICs? MCZ3001DB or MCZ3001D?
..
n/m again. this is the right ebay item, no?
http://cgi.ebay.com/LOT-OF-TWO-2-MCZ...item5634f2a64e
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post #44 of 49 Old 06-14-2010, 08:53 AM
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I have same prob 6 blinks and no power on. Was going to order the mcz3001 db sockets they come in pair is there 2 i need to replace or just one?
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post #45 of 49 Old 06-14-2010, 09:08 AM
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if anyone knows a link for service manual for Sony KV-34HS510 I would appreciate it. I'm going to venture out and attempt to fix my unity myself! Could be good could be bad!
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post #46 of 49 Old 06-14-2010, 09:10 AM
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srry for waste of space but trying to leave link for parts on another thread and got denied due to being new. Need 3 to leave link. Thanks for help & understanding.
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post #47 of 49 Old 07-07-2010, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revtw View Post

if anyone knows a link for service manual for Sony KV-34HS510 I would appreciate it.

http://elektrotanya.com/?q=showresul...oria=&kat2=all

That which may be known of God is evident within man, for God has shown it to them, so that they are without excuse. (Romans 1:19-20)
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post #48 of 49 Old 09-22-2010, 11:04 AM
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I am really glad to find this thread. I have the KV-34HS510, and it has performed flawlessly for over 5 years until 2 days ago. I am getting the 6 blink diagnostic code.
My soldering skills are rusty, but I will tackle this anyway when I get the IC's and a new soldering iron. My little radio shack iron never did work very well.

We have no local repair shop, and I'm not hauling this big sucker anywhere unless it's to the recycler!

Thanks so much for all the posts!
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post #49 of 49 Old 05-28-2011, 12:43 PM
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Thank you all for your help. I removed the ICs and soldered in the sockets today and am awaiting delivery of the new ICs ($6.99 ea from TSM Inc.)
Disconnected all except the flyback wires and was able to access the bottom of the D board to desolder and solder.
Total cost so far (tools and supplies) is $40.47. I got very good results with the desoldering braid.
I will let you know if the fix worked once I install the ICs.

Thanks again everyone for your help.

John
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