Official Panasonic PT-AE3000U OWNERS Thread. - Page 161 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #4801 of 4830 Old 01-07-2014, 08:12 AM
Senior Member
 
Johnny Mnemonic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 239
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 60
I am not sure as my use is all through HDMI. But maybe the pixels aren't square? That may explain the ratio difference, but might just need to play with settings on the PC graphics and the PJ menu

Warning: I make a lot of mistakes but occasionally I learn from them!
Johnny Mnemonic is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4802 of 4830 Old 01-07-2014, 05:18 PM
Senior Member
 
kendo70433's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Sebastopol, CA
Posts: 431
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by GateMan View Post

.... Picked up a used PT-AE3000U off Ebay and it's an awesome unit. .... I set the video output to 1600 X 900 pixels (1.77 aspect ratio), but ....

The manual doesn't list that as a compatible input signal. So you might be lucky it's displaying anything at all. These are the listed computer signals: VGA, SVGA, XGA, SXGA, MXGA
kendo70433 is offline  
post #4803 of 4830 Old 01-09-2014, 01:27 PM
Newbie
 
GateMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks for the replies. It works great when I hook it up to a late model laptop with HD output. You're probably right about it not being a valid input format thru the VGA connection. I'll probably get a video card to put in the old computer that outputs HDMI. Thanks again.
GateMan is offline  
post #4804 of 4830 Old 01-27-2014, 03:55 PM
Newbie
 
comervp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: in Catalunya, near Barcelona (Europe)
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

KurtG - Perpendicular up/down is very easy to check with a small level on the projector housing, but I can't think of a good way to check if the projector is truly perpendicular to the screen left/right, other than precisely measuring from the screen to the front corner of each side of the projector. I don't really think it is a critical parameter at typical throw distances. The amount of keystoning from a slight lack of left/right perpendicularity would have to be very slight...the geometry error is probably imperceptible.


I wrote this procedure down for a friend with a new AE3000 as his first front projector and it seemed to work well for him. When I went over to his house to check it out, his setup was flawless. Hopefully this will help someone out there who just needs a few tips to get started in the right direction.


=====================================================


0) I'm going to assume that your screen is installed plumb and level.


1) Put a small bubble level on your projector. Careful not to scratch! Put masking tape on the bottom of it if you are worried.


2 Level the projector side-to-side and front-to-back. Re-check it two or three times on both left/right and front/back of the projector housing. That is, check level on the left and the right sides, and at the front and back edges of the housing.


3) Ensure that the mechanical lens shift Vertical and Horizontal are in their center detent positions. You should be able to "feel" when they drop into the detent.


4) Turn on the projector and display the blue/green focusing screen for starters.


5) Zoom to the approximate size needed for 16:9 and focus.


6) Now start tinkering with the mechanical lens shift to center the image vertically. Don't worry about horizontal when working with 16:9.


7) Zoom and focus again as necessary to fill out top to bottom. This is an iterative process.


8) Do you have Digital Video Essentials or some other test DVD that has a geometry test pattern and/or a geometry/sharpness/overscan pattern? If yes, you can use the overscan pattern to fine-tune your image size for maximum pixel viewability on your screen, and use the geometry pattern to tweak your side-to-side image level. That is, if your screen is level, but the image is still slightly skewed, you can adjust the projector feet a little bit to compensate. No one will notice if the screen is slightly unlevel, as long as the image is aligned to it.


9) To set up the Lens Memory for 2:35, again a test pattern is helpful. However, program material is also usable if you find a bright scene (all edges bright) to work with.


10) Zoom the image until the sides just start to move off the screen. At this point the top of the image may also be off the screen. Go into the Lens Memory and use the digital adjust to bring it back down and center it. Note: do not use the master digital image position controls at all. I believe the master controls are found under Option. These need to remain zero'd or you'll lose pixels.


11) If the image is not centered horizontally, use horizontal mechanical lens shift to center it. It won't affect your perception when you go back to 16:9. 2.35 is dominant for horizontal.


12) Go through the iterative process of zooming, focusing, vertical digital adjustment, and horizontal mechanical lens shift.


13) Zoom back to 16:9 and take a look. You can tweak zoom, focus, and vertical mechanical lens shift.


14) Zoom back to 2.35 and take a look. You can tweak zoom, focus, vertical digital shift, and horizontal mechanical lens shift.


15) Rule for mechanical lens shift: only use vertical on 16:9. Only use horizontal on 2.35. Reason: you want to control the top/bottom location of 16:9 without using vertical digital shift, and you want to control the left/right of 2.35 without using horizontal digital shift. You are free to use vertical digital shift on 2.35 since you have pixels to spare vertically.


Hi HMenke,

I'm so sorry to recall this old post but I think it'd contain something close to my needs, if I understood correctly your words And if you'd gently want to help a newbee defining his project of dedicated room at the basement, an old one reading posts in AVS but new on posting.

I'm trying to develop on paper (and mind) any major building aspect, constraint or element that will define or limit the project. IAbout the image, I love the idea of Constant Area and AT screen:

- Total screen surface 380x180cm (150x71")
- 320x180cm at 1.78 (126x71")
- 380x160cm at 2.37 (150x63")
- using lens memory of a Panasonic AT6000 (or the one able to do it as automatic as Pana does.
- VP distance will be 515cm (16.9')
- main seating at less than 400cm (13').
-room dimensions (before treatment): 650x478x260cm (21,3x15.7x8.5' approx.)

I began reading this thread yesterday trying to find an answer for my theoretical idea: I want only a black bottom area (of 20cm, just for subtitles, if needed) when playing a 2.37 movie. That means that both 1.78 and 2.37 will appear aligned at the top (no black area there, In that scheme, I'll need a 3-masking system: 2 at the sides and 1 at the bottom.

And when I read your tutorial about the subject I found the last line as a possibility to be confirmed: after your experience with this projector, do you believe it as feasable? Will vertical shift be recorded as part of a lens memory?

I'm in the Planning phase and I still haven't bought any electronics (but recently a Sherbourn PT-7030). And I can't do any test or whatever with my Mitsu HC6000 (apart from internal masking). May I ask you or other owners of this projector to check it for me, please?

Thanks a lot and sorry for this bad piece of english. I'm just a catalan native, teached in spanish and some french (just a few better than english).

Ramon

subsolb2A3aillant.pdf 14k .pdf file
Screenwall.pdf 608k .pdf file

(To the Admins: Please relocate this post if this is not the correct place)
comervp is offline  
post #4805 of 4830 Old 01-27-2014, 04:10 PM
Newbie
 
comervp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: in Catalunya, near Barcelona (Europe)
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Sorry, mistaken thread. I will re-post at at6000 thread.
comervp is offline  
post #4806 of 4830 Old 01-27-2014, 04:48 PM
AVS Special Member
 
HMenke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Northern Kentucky (Greater Cincinnati)
Posts: 1,076
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 50
Hello Ramon,

Please no apologies - your English is better than my Castilian Spanish! smile.gif It's fun to hear from someone Spain. I once visited Almería and I will never forget the sunshine, the sea, and the amazing flavor of jamón ibérico de bellota! Food of the gods.

I had the PT-AE3000U and now I have the PT-AE8000U which is similar to the European AT6000. All parameters under the Lens Control menu are saved with each Lens Memory setting:

Zoom/Focus
H-Area Position
V-Area Position
Left Masking Area
Right Masking Area
Upper Masking Area
Lower Masking Area

Please feel free to ask for any other information.

P.S. I just investigated Sherbourne PT-7030. Awesome! cool.gif
HMenke is offline  
post #4807 of 4830 Old 02-13-2014, 09:01 PM
Newbie
 
comervp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: in Catalunya, near Barcelona (Europe)
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi Hmenke, and sorry for the delay but just after posting I realized that I did it uncorrectly (3000 instead of 8000) and I copied my post there. As I said, I'm an intense reader but an unexperienced poster and from then, first mistake, I was checking for an answer only there and, second mistake, I badly configured my profile and consequently I wasn't receiving any message about answers.

Off topic on:
About my spanish neighbours, we catalans also appreciate those things you commented and many others (but not all) about spaniards. My wife is from Galicia, in the NW, and Almería is too hot compared to. I never went there but I heard beautiful things from the boyfriend of a niece of mine that was born there. But the worse thing is that I never went to the States. As a minimal consolation, I live in a quiet village called Begues, that in catalan is pronounced exactly as you say Vegas (for Las Vegas).
Off topic off.

I appreciate very much the information you sent that helps a lot and I'm very happy to know that I'll go deeply on my DIY planning and step on constant area, top alignment and 3 masks- Magnificent!! smile.gif

At present my theater is in my living room, not accoustically treated and just above the future room in the basement, same dimensions. Initiated in 2002 (TV and 5.1) and recklessly declared finished in late 2008 (VP and screen) and composed of:

Sherbourn PT-7030 (last integration)
Harman Kardon AVR5000
KEF speakers (old but very pleasant material: 2 Q55.2, 2 Q15.2, 1 Q95c and 1 PSW1000)
Mitsubishi HC6000
Cinescreen V5, 16/9, 118" diag., electric, power triggered to the projector
Panasonic BDP65, Oppo 971
AZBox HD Premium Combo -DTT and free satellite (Astra1, Astra2, Hotbird)

I'll try to maintain this living room configuration just for TV shows (without the Sherbourn and readers).

I'm really very satisfied with the PT-7030 and its finesse and clarity, appart from having paid $800 as final price (a great bargain) and seeing 2 weeks after that price fell down again to $550 ( mad.gif but no complaining, sir).

Prospecting for sound, I adquired second hand 2 Kelonik KCS SR12 from an audiophile, This is originally a surround speaker made in Barcelona and widely present in actual movie theaters in Europe. I connected them instead of my tower speakers (Q55.2) and is mandatory to say that they sound really great and clear, perfectly flat for movies (5.1) but very musical too (2.1).

A pack of second hand KCS (3 S1500, 4 SR12) from a closed theater will be an alternative choice although enormeous. But the main point remains installing amplified monitors, something like Emotiva Stealth 6, Behringer B2031A, or similar monitors. Its not clear for me as I can't test them (impossible for Emotiva's) and I don't know about its performance in such a room and rear event of Emotiva's. Well, just boiling my head.rolleyes.gif

Thanks for your support and help, my friend.smile.gifsmile.gifsmile.gif



PS: My personal tribute to my beloved Pete Seeger since late 60's, when I discovered american folk songs and singers that left a crucial mark in catalan music (times then were changing)
comervp is offline  
post #4808 of 4830 Old 02-18-2014, 03:12 PM
Member
 
Brock104's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10

I have recently come into ownership of a Panasonic PT-AE3000U. When I started using the projector it was bright and the picture was fantastic. The owner before me had replaced the lamp a year or 2 ago and hadn't used the projector too often. When I got it there was about 550 hours on the lamp. I used it, probably at abuse type levels (movies and TV every night and a big Superblow party), for the first few weeks I got it and then there started to be a rapid decay in the brightness to the point where I don't want to use it anymore because it is so washed out. I did a lot of trouble shooting (changing settings, adjusting color and brightness levels, change picture settings, adjust eco to normal mode, clean the air filter, etc.) to see if there was an issue with the inputs or any devices or cables connected to it, but came back with nothing. I'm now at the conclusion that this has to be a bulb issue. The bulb only shows about 657 hours of use on it, but by the way it looks you would think it has closer to 2,500! 

 

Has anyone else ever had this issue? Also, if anyone has replaced a bulb in the recent past, where did you buy it from (provantage.com I hear is a good place) and about how much did you pay? Also, any suggestions on this would be great.

Brock104 is offline  
post #4809 of 4830 Old 02-18-2014, 03:46 PM
AVS Special Member
 
HMenke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Northern Kentucky (Greater Cincinnati)
Posts: 1,076
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 50
The previous owner likely installed a cheap knock-off lamp that probably cost less than $100. Genuine OEM Panasonic lamps will cost you between $300-$500 depending on where you buy. I strongly encourage you to not waste your money on a counterfeit lamp and buy the genuine article.

To get the best possible deal on genuine OEM lamps, I always buy on eBay from reputable resellers based in Japan. For example there is a seller on eBay named j-stop with an eBay storefront called Japan Stop. Feedback is 99.8% after more than 22,000 transactions so you should be able to buy with confidence.

I believe the replacement lamp you are looking for is Panasonic P/N ET-LAE1000 but please verify in your owner's manual.
laugsbach likes this.
HMenke is offline  
post #4810 of 4830 Old 02-18-2014, 03:53 PM
Member
 
Brock104's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10

I did wonder if it was a knock-off, even though I genuinely think they thought it was original - hard to tell these days. I'll have a look through ebay, although I'm always a bit more cautious buying stuff from them. That does look like the correct part number from the owners manual. I know the one from provantage was about $300 and it seems that is an official panasonic bulb.  

Brock104 is offline  
post #4811 of 4830 Old 02-18-2014, 04:18 PM
AVS Special Member
 
HMenke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Northern Kentucky (Greater Cincinnati)
Posts: 1,076
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by comervp View Post

Thanks for your support and help, my friend.smile.gif

You are quite welcome, my friend. It's a pleasure to help a fellow enthusiast who has such a passion for audio and video. This is what we love to do! smile.gif
HMenke is offline  
post #4812 of 4830 Old 02-18-2014, 07:19 PM
AVS Special Member
 
laugsbach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 2,583
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 123
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brock104 View Post

...I know the one from pro vantage was about $300 and it seems that is an official panasonic bulb.

It is...that is where I got mine. smile.gif
HMenke likes this.
laugsbach is offline  
post #4813 of 4830 Old 02-18-2014, 07:36 PM
AVS Special Member
 
HMenke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Northern Kentucky (Greater Cincinnati)
Posts: 1,076
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brock104 View Post

I did wonder if it was a knock-off, even though I genuinely think they thought it was original - hard to tell these days. I'll have a look through ebay, although I'm always a bit more cautious buying stuff from them. That does look like the correct part number from the owners manual. I know the one from provantage was about $300 and it seems that is an official panasonic bulb.  
Quote:
Originally Posted by laugsbach View Post

It is...that is where I got mine. smile.gif

Brock104: Excellent, sounds like a fair price and a reputable seller. I trust laugbach's recommendation implicitly. Gather three Benjamins, get that lamp, and blast forth HD awesomeness! cool.gif
HMenke is offline  
post #4814 of 4830 Old 02-28-2014, 05:35 PM
Senior Member
 
kendo70433's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Sebastopol, CA
Posts: 431
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Have any of you seen this problem? My projector wouldn't stay on. It would come on for maybe 30 seconds, then shut itself off. Then it wouldn't turn on again until I unplugged it for a few seconds. Then it would just turn on for about 30 seconds. So I unplugged it, removed the bulb and reseated it. Now it works.

Any ideas why it did this? Is it an early sign that I need a new projector (please...)?

Ken
kendo70433 is offline  
post #4815 of 4830 Old 02-28-2014, 07:07 PM
AVS Special Member
 
HMenke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Northern Kentucky (Greater Cincinnati)
Posts: 1,076
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by kendo70433 View Post

Have any of you seen this problem? My projector wouldn't stay on. It would come on for maybe 30 seconds, then shut itself off. Then it wouldn't turn on again until I unplugged it for a few seconds. Then it would just turn on for about 30 seconds. So I unplugged it, removed the bulb and reseated it. Now it works.

Any ideas why it did this? Is it an early sign that I need a new projector (please...)?

I went through this. There are four fans in the 3000. The one that fails first is the exhaust fan. It sucks air out of the hot side of the lamp, so it lives in high heat and dies an early death. I purchased all four fans with the idea to replace them. I managed to replace two; one of them was the lamp exhaust fan. It was nightmare to accomplish. I gave up on the second two due to the near-100% dis-assembly required.

My advice? Yes, it is time for a new projector. You will experience nothing but hassle and disappointment from this day forward.
HMenke is offline  
post #4816 of 4830 Old 03-07-2014, 12:01 PM
Member
 
Brock104's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10

Thanks for the feedback on buying a replacement lamp. I'm about ready to pull the trigger (just waiting for some funds) and someone had mentioned looking at Bulbs.com. Has anyone ordered from there with any feedback? Looks like the have the bulb for about $10 cheaper than provantage, with an additional 10% off if you sign up for e-mails, and free shipping. Just curious if anyone has experience that they can share?

 

http://www.bulbs.com/espec.aspx?ID=21911

Brock104 is offline  
post #4817 of 4830 Old 03-12-2014, 08:34 PM
Member
 
coregmrconman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 32
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So I have a really old bulb. It has been reset twice and yesterday the fan started making a bit of noise, so i cleaned the filter and restarted the unit. It booted fine and the "fan" noise started when booted then quickly dissipated. Booted twice yesterday with no problems. Today it would not boot at all. I reset the power brick and it started for 5 seconds and showed the Panasonic logo then shut off. Reset brick, same thing.

Now I am fully aware it needs a new bulb, but will this solve my problem of the auto-shut down?

Not to make this personal, but I have a disability and we got the projector when it first came out to help me see my movies and games easier. I have a muscle and joint impairment called arthrogryposis and i play games by pushing buttons with my face and fingers so the size and ability to move the screen helps. I only have about 700 saved so I am basically placing all hope a lamp will help. Any help would be great.

thank you
coregmrconman is offline  
post #4818 of 4830 Old 03-13-2014, 03:19 AM
Member
 
Lesmor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 189
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by coregmrconman View Post

So I have a really old bulb. It has been reset twice and yesterday the fan started making a bit of noise, so i cleaned the filter and restarted the unit. It booted fine and the "fan" noise started when booted then quickly dissipated. Booted twice yesterday with no problems. Today it would not boot at all. I reset the power brick and it started for 5 seconds and showed the Panasonic logo then shut off. Reset brick, same thing.

Now I am fully aware it needs a new bulb, but will this solve my problem of the auto-shut down?

Not to make this personal, but I have a disability and we got the projector when it first came out to help me see my movies and games easier. I have a muscle and joint impairment called arthrogryposis and i play games by pushing buttons with my face and fingers so the size and ability to move the screen helps. I only have about 700 saved so I am basically placing all hope a lamp will help. Any help would be great.

thank you
You don't state the age of the projector or if owned from new?
If you have a really old bulb and keep resetting it you run the risk of the bulb shattering (Exploding)

Also although you cleaned the filter it also will be past it efficiency and you possibly run the risk of overheating and damaging the actual projector
A replacement bulb comes with a new filter but whether that will fix it I cant say.
I understand your position re funding so the last thing you want is to waste funds if a new bulb and filter does not cure the problem.

After being corrected I suggest trying to source a new filter which should not be too expensive and see if that helps, if it does then replace the bulb ASAP
Also read reply post 4815

Hope you get it working OK
Lesmor is online now  
post #4819 of 4830 Old 03-13-2014, 05:43 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mr.G's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,351
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Liked: 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brock104 View Post

Thanks for the feedback on buying a replacement lamp. I'm about ready to pull the trigger (just waiting for some funds) and someone had mentioned looking at Bulbs.com. Has anyone ordered from there with any feedback? Looks like the have the bulb for about $10 cheaper than provantage, with an additional 10% off if you sign up for e-mails, and free shipping. Just curious if anyone has experience that they can share?

http://www.bulbs.com/espec.aspx?ID=21911

I'd be a little leery because of the wording.

Lamp Assembly with High Quality OEM Compatible Bulb Inside.

Provantage would be my choice when ordering.

All I Really Need to Know I Learned in Movies

Mr.G is offline  
post #4820 of 4830 Old 03-13-2014, 07:24 AM
AVS Special Member
 
m. zillch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,802
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lesmor View Post

If you have a really old bulb and keep resetting it you run the risk of the bulb shattering (Exploding)
 

Agreed. In addition to having a much dimmer output, which isn't always readily apparent to the user because it has dimmed only very slowly over time, so there never was a day one used it where it suddenly seemed dim to them, the danger of continuing to use such an old bulb makes it not advisable.

Quote:
 If it was me, and this is at your own risk, I would temporarily remove the filter and see if that helps. If it does then you have something to work with, and at least replace with a new filter and for safety get a new bulb as well Don't run the projector long term with no filter.

PROJECTORS SHOULD NEVER BE OPERATED WITHOUT A FILTER, EVEN FOR TEN SECONDS. The filter is there to prevent dust particles, invisible to the naked eye, from being sucked in and depositing on the panels and polarizers, which causes "dust blobs" in the projected image.

 

The only two places I'd personally feel safe getting a new genuine Panasonic brand lamp, which always comes with a new filter, is B&H Photo Video in NY, or Provantage. Words like "compatible" scare me away from other places since we have heard so many horror stories about "compatible" bulbs having off colors, short lives, and dimmed output after only a short time of use.

Lesmor likes this.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

m. zillch is offline  
post #4821 of 4830 Old 03-13-2014, 07:38 AM
Member
 
Lesmor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 189
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
I thank you for the filter clarification, I have amend the post
Lesmor is online now  
post #4822 of 4830 Old 03-13-2014, 09:45 AM
Member
 
Brock104's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10

I ordered the bulb form Provantage and had it arrive yesterday. It is an authentic Panasonic bulb and comes with the new filter. The install took me all of about 15 min and we are back to awesomeness!! I don't know whether or not the bulb from bulbs.com is authentic or not, but I would go with Provantage based on all the experience on here and their 100% 30-day satisfaction guarantee. It's just not worth the risk to save only a couple dollars at the end of the day. Thanks for your suggestions. I'll keep you posted if I have any other dimness issues, but crossing my fingers that the problem is resolved. 

Brock104 is offline  
post #4823 of 4830 Old 03-13-2014, 10:29 AM
Member
 
coregmrconman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 32
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lesmor View Post

You don't state the age of the projector or if owned from new?
If you have a really old bulb and keep resetting it you run the risk of the bulb shattering (Exploding)

Also although you cleaned the filter it also will be past it efficiency and you possibly run the risk of overheating and damaging the actual projector
A replacement bulb comes with a new filter but whether that will fix it I cant say.
I understand your position re funding so the last thing you want is to waste funds if a new bulb and filter does not cure the problem.

After being corrected I suggest trying to source a new filter which should not be too expensive and see if that helps, if it does then replace the bulb ASAP
Also read reply post 4815

Hope you get it working OK
i bought it new and have had it since 2010 i think.
coregmrconman is offline  
post #4824 of 4830 Old 03-13-2014, 10:36 AM
Member
 
Lesmor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 189
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by coregmrconman View Post

i bought it new and have had it since 2010 i think.
That's about the same time I've had mine
Had a problem with the image pulsing but luckily I got a free spare bulb and filter when I bought it, changed it and all is good.
There was only 690 hours on the bulb so seems age can also be a factor

Anyway good luck with getting a solution
Lesmor is online now  
post #4825 of 4830 Old 03-13-2014, 01:23 PM
AVS Special Member
 
m. zillch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,802
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 100

Pulsing or brightness changes sometimes means the lamp electrical connections aren't fully seated. Removing it and re installing it (or swapping a bulb) can often fix this.

Lesmor likes this.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

m. zillch is offline  
post #4826 of 4830 Old 03-13-2014, 01:50 PM
Member
 
Lesmor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 189
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

Pulsing or brightness changes sometimes means the lamp electrical connections aren't fully seated. Removing it and re installing it (or swapping a bulb) can often fix this.
Thanks for the info
I searched the web and posted questions on forums with no response
I also contacted Panasonic and got no suggestions other than change the bulb
The projector had never been moved since installed
Was difficult to remove the screws to be honest, could have been a seating problem
Anyway bulb change fixed it
Thanks again a good tip for the future
Lesmor is online now  
post #4827 of 4830 Old 03-13-2014, 03:33 PM
AVS Special Member
 
m. zillch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,802
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 100

The one I mentioned isn't the only cause, but does at least have the easiest fix.:)

Here are some other reasons:

 

"Electrodes in metal arc lamps slowly degenerate over time as the tips acquire deformities and an increasing larger radius that results in a reduction of current flow near the cathode tip and also increases the power level required to sustain the arc. The three most common artifacts associated with electrode wear are termed wander, flare, and flutter (see Figure 5):

http://zeiss-campus.magnet.fsu.edu/articles/lightsources/images/metalhalidelampsfigure5.jpg

 

Arc wander occurs when the attachment point of the arc on the cathode tip travels to a new location, often following a circular pattern around the circumference of the electrode. Wander is accompanied by arc flare, which refers to a momentary change in brightness as the arc relocates to a new region on the electrode with a higher emissive character than the previous attachment point. Flutter occurs when convection currents in the fill gas generated by the temperature differential between the arc and envelope invoke a rapid lateral displacement of the arc column. Collectively, these sources of instability contribute significantly to poor lamp performance..."

 

source:

http://zeiss-campus.magnet.fsu.edu/print/lightsources/metalhalide-print.html

 

Some claim arc wander, etc., can sometimes be alleviated by running the bulb on "high" for an hour or two. Not sure if that's true, reseating is what cured my problem.

Lesmor likes this.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

m. zillch is offline  
post #4828 of 4830 Old 03-13-2014, 03:40 PM
Member
 
Lesmor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 189
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

The one I mentioned isn't the only cause, but does at least have the easiest fix.smile.gif
Here are some other reasons:

"Electrodes in metal arc lamps slowly degenerate over time as the tips acquire deformities and an increasing larger radius that results in a reduction of current flow near the cathode tip and also increases the power level required to sustain the arc. The three most common artifacts associated with electrode wear are termed wander, flare, and flutter (see Figure 5):
http://zeiss-campus.magnet.fsu.edu/articles/lightsources/images/metalhalidelampsfigure5.jpg

Arc wander occurs when the attachment point of the arc on the cathode tip travels to a new location, often following a circular pattern around the circumference of the electrode. Wander is accompanied by arc flare, which refers to a momentary change in brightness as the arc relocates to a new region on the electrode with a higher emissive character than the previous attachment point. Flutter occurs when convection currents in the fill gas generated by the temperature differential between the arc and envelope invoke a rapid lateral displacement of the arc column. Collectively, these sources of instability contribute significantly to poor lamp performance..."

source:
http://zeiss-campus.magnet.fsu.edu/print/lightsources/metalhalide-print.html

Some claim arc wander, etc., can sometimes be alleviated by running the bulb on "high" for an hour or two. Not sure if that's true, reseating is what cured my problem.

Yes that's what I thought
No Seriously I appreciate the feedback and explanation
I did run the bulb on high for 2 hours after finding that it might work on the net, but sadly it didn't
Many thanks again
Lesmor is online now  
post #4829 of 4830 Old 07-01-2014, 10:18 PM
AVS Special Member
 
tleavit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Vancouver, Wa
Posts: 1,476
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 33
I have a PT-AE1000 which as far as I can tell uses the same bulb so I have a question. My bulb (after 10000+ hours) finally popped and I went with a site call Lampsource for a guaranteed factory replacement bulb with stock housing. When I got it, the bulb was not the same as my factory bulb (Chinease vs Japaneese). Is there any reason for me to believe that this is a factory bulb? I paid fuuuuuuullll price for this thing, hundreds more then cheap Chinese bulbs that I could have bought. Thank you for your help. The housing looked the same bud did not that the same factory sticker either. Fit in the projector perfectly.

I'm still amazed that my factory bulb lasted 10K hours and still looked great.

"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic" -Arthur C. Clarke
tleavit is offline  
post #4830 of 4830 Old 07-02-2014, 12:05 AM
AVS Special Member
 
m. zillch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,802
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 100
You know you've got the correct bulb when you order a "Panasonic", the box that shows up is clearly marked with "Panasonic" (written in their corporate logo style), and there's a replacement air filter in the box.


The only safe retailers are Provantage and B&H Photo Video, everything else is sketchy, and just because some forum post says, "I bought from Lamps-R-Us and I assure you I got the real deal, it works great!" you don't know:

A. If they are correct. The lamp may blow in 750 hours or have an off color temperature or poor uniformity, they don't notice.

B. If that retailer may sell both, real and clones.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..


Last edited by m. zillch; 07-02-2014 at 12:56 AM.
m. zillch is offline  
Reply Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off