Official Panasonic PT-AE3000U OWNERS Thread. - Page 162 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4831 of 4852 Old 08-02-2014, 09:21 AM
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Projector shuts down 10 seconds after turn on

Could you guys do me a favor and report back with the temperature readings displayed in the self-check screen of your projectors? With the projector on and using the remote control you enter the hidden menu by pressing the following buttons in non-stop sequence: Power, Right Arrow, Up Arrow, Down Arrow, Up Arrow, Down Arrow, and Enter. Then you'll see the self-check listed.

My readings after the projector is up to temperature are:
INTK - 168
EXST - 85
FLTR - 172

I also have had the "Lamp Fan" reading "OK" in red which I understand is the fan intermittently not running correctly.

Anyway the projector shuts down shortly after starting up and I am trying to narrow down the cause. I think it is the lamp fan, and the low reading of 85 degrees on the EXST temp is making me think that sensor might be malfunctioning.

I know I'll have some guys wanting to suggest the bulb, but it's not the bulb (1100 hours and picture is perfect when I can get the projector to stay on). Thanks.
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post #4832 of 4852 Old 08-14-2014, 01:16 PM
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replacing the fan

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Schlarb View Post
I'm happy to report that after replacing all 4 fans with new ones, my AE3000U seems good as new. I had to completely disassemble it (remove the major assemblies), so while I was at it I carefully cleaned the LCD panels and colored filters with the lens cleaning cloth I use for my Nikon DSLR. I also blew out the lens assembly with one of these: http://www.giottos.com/Rocket-air.htm. I ordered the 4 fans from Pac Parts (http://www.pacparts.com/). It took about 3-4 weeks to get them, but it was obviously worth the wait! The whole process took me about 4 hours, definitely not for the faint of heart. I took some video, which I'll edit and post if someone needs it.

Now my problem is, I don't have a good reason to get a new projector. Maybe when the new bulb hits 2000 hours. :-)

EDIT: The fan replacement would have been much easier if I'd found this diagram first: http://www.pacparts.com/reference/330/PTAE3000U.pdf. Hope this helps someone else!

EDIT #2: Thanks to HMenke for his tutorial post, which gave me the courage to do this.
Yes, HMenke's tuturorial, added to your success has led me to believe that this would be reasonably simple.

You replaced all 4 fans, just to save some shiping, and perhaps some hassle down the road? or did you feel the other fans were failing as well? I beleive I only need to replace the main ventilation fan...it just sounds loud these days, but then sometimes it sounds quiter.

I love my AE3000U have had it for 5 yrs, replaced the lamp once, never had a problem, even forgot to turn it off on more than one occasion, must have ran straight for about 18 hrs or more until I noticed it was still on.

The replacing the fan and perhaps getting a new bulb should be worthwhile...I am wondering if youtwo have ran into any other non-related issues with your projector...issues that made you run out and buy a new one

Thanks for all the great info
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post #4833 of 4852 Old 01-01-2015, 08:33 AM
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Hey guys, if anyone is in the market for a PT-AE3000U, I have one that I like to get sold since I purchased a new projector (thanks honey).

It only has 1360 lamp hours in ECO Mode. Asking price w/ UPS insured / shipping is $425. Works great!

Cheers.

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post #4834 of 4852 Old 02-08-2015, 12:34 AM
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Unhappy PANASONIC PT-AT6000 problem!

Hey guys, this is my first post. I have problem with my PANASONIC PT-AT6000, look at picture, has anyone got idea what wrong with this projector, how to fix it??? thank's for any idea.
Cheers.
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post #4835 of 4852 Old 02-08-2015, 07:34 PM
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post #4836 of 4852 Old 02-08-2015, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GOFER1234 View Post
Hey guys, this is my first post. I have problem with my PANASONIC PT-AT6000, look at picture, has anyone got idea what wrong with this projector, how to fix it??? thank's for any idea.
Cheers.
Your unit is broken. The three LCD panels, red, green, and blue, are grossly out of alignment. Although in the past it
was quite common for units such as yours to have user adjustable controls to fix this, called convergence, this particular unit, to the best of my knowledge, is meant to be adjusted only by technicians. Sorry.
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In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #4837 of 4852 Old 02-09-2015, 12:31 AM
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Thanks for your help, that's what I suspected , because the projector probably fell to the ground , but I doubt whether it is such a big adjustment until these panels ?
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post #4838 of 4852 Old 02-09-2015, 01:18 AM
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According to one source I read, just an anecdotal forum post, the reason we no longer have user adjustable convergence controls on 3LCD products is because the three are cemented together and aren't really adjustable any more.


You might look for a service manual to see what you can find out on your own, but otherwise you'll need to send it to a service center. Good luck.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

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post #4839 of 4852 Old 02-11-2015, 03:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
According to one source I read, just an anecdotal forum post, the reason we no longer have user adjustable convergence controls on 3LCD products is because the three are cemented together and aren't really adjustable any more.


You might look for a service manual to see what you can find out on your own, but other wise you'll need to send it to a service center. Good luck.
I watched the service instructions and there is nothing on setting these LCD panels so I suspect that you can not fix it in a simple way , I undress projector and see if you can set it up in some other way , perhaps adjustable mirrors ?
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post #4840 of 4852 Old 09-20-2015, 05:55 PM
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So my remote control suddenly only works within about 3 feet of the projector for some reason. I of course have replaced the batteries, it lights up nice and bright. I have wiped off the remote and the sensor on the projector itself. Any ideas?

I has always worked very well, I actually could point it at my screen and it would reflect back to the projector and work perfectly.
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post #4841 of 4852 Old 09-20-2015, 06:48 PM
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So tell us, when the batteries are starting to run low on your remote unit, what exactly is the manifestation that alerts you to their weakened condition?


Would it impress you that over the internet I have ESP and can tell, by reading your mind, that you own neither a battery tester nor a voltmeter? Pretty cool huh? Would it impress you even further if I could tell that you are using rechargeable batteries?

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #4842 of 4852 Old 09-21-2015, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
So tell us, when the batteries are starting to run low on your remote unit, what exactly is the manifestation that alerts you to their weakened condition?


Would it impress you that over the internet I have ESP and can tell, by reading your mind, that you own neither a battery tester nor a voltmeter? Pretty cool huh? Would it impress you even further if I could tell that you are using rechargeable batteries?
LOL, that would be impressive. However I do own a quite nice voltmeter as well as a battery tester. I also would never use rechargeable batteries. I changed them out to brand new duracell batteries and i still have the exact same 3ft range. i can repeatedly hit a button and move it back and forth and it is right at 2.5-3 ft range that it works and then doesn't. It's very strange I have never seen this happen before. This has actually been happening for months now but I am just now posting about it.
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post #4843 of 4852 Old 09-21-2015, 10:48 AM
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Sometimes IR sensors are blinded by things such as sunlight, aquarium lights, plasma TV displays (although I saw it once on an LCD too and they aren't supposed to have this issue), and even fluorescent front panel displays on receivers and disk players. You might try unplugging ever single electrical device in the room to see if you can narrow down the culprit, at night so there's no sun, if that's what it is, and if you notice that there are no problems during the first few seconds of operation until the pj starts projecting, then the light from the image itself might be the blinding light. The only possible cure is to construct a "sun visor" out of cardboard to mount just over the pj's eye sensor so it only sees light from where you sit but not from the objectionable, blinding source.


Test the brand new Duracells just to be certain they didn't happen to also be bad. If they don't show at least 1.6V under no load, then they aren't on a full tank.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #4844 of 4852 Old 09-21-2015, 10:53 AM
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Even if the batteries are in great shape if the electrical contacts in the remote are partially oxidized, not shiny clean, then they can't pass the full current and that also would diminish the range. Try cleaning the electrical contact points with q-tips dipped in rubbing alcohol and scrape them with a sharp knife blade too. Spin the batteries once inserted which also scrapes clean the exact contact points.

I bet this cures it.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #4845 of 4852 Old 09-22-2015, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Even if the batteries are in great shape if the electrical contacts in the remote are partially oxidized, not shiny clean, then they can't pass the full current and that also would diminish the range. Try cleaning the electrical contact points with q-tips dipped in rubbing alcohol and scrape them with a sharp knife blade too. Spin the batteries once inserted which also scrapes clean the exact contact points.

I bet this cures it.
so this appears to be the issue, They look a bit corroded, I will clean them up and see what happens. Thanks
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post #4846 of 4852 Old 09-28-2015, 01:37 PM
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I did find cheap Panasonic PT-AE3000 projector on the internet and because the distance I did not have change to try it before buying it.
So quick test at home and white screen looks like this (picture attached)

What's wrong with the projector? Is it (hopefully) just dust or is it something worse, like LCD-panel is broken?
At quick look they are most viewed on the white screen.

I did open the upper housing and take care out the easiest dust that was easily removable and of course the filter too. It was very dirty on the inside too, like it was never cleaned.
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post #4847 of 4852 Old 09-29-2015, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siid View Post
I did find cheap Panasonic PT-AE3000 projector on the internet and because the distance I did not have change to try it before buying it.
So quick test at home and white screen looks like this (picture attached)

What's wrong with the projector? Is it (hopefully) just dust or is it something worse, like LCD-panel is broken?
At quick look they are most viewed on the white screen.

I did open the upper housing and take care out the easiest dust that was easily removable and of course the filter too. It was very dirty on the inside too, like it was never cleaned.
I did get these focused bit more clearly and there is definitely some dust, but as it is on that wide area I would assume that there is something else wrong with the dust on the lcd-panels. Maybe burned?
I would like to hear someones opinion with this.

I will need to try to get those panels cleaned and see how it effects to the picture. Is air pump better or spray canned air?

Pretty shame that if some lcd-panel is burned, because before this projector I had Sanyo PLV-Z5 (2006) in pristine condition and it have almost 7000 hours on it. This one don't have anywhere near those hours on this machine, but I would say that it is because lack of maintenance.
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post #4848 of 4852 Old 09-29-2015, 11:14 AM
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Based on you image, if what you are talking about is a discoloration which appears as a gradual change towards one side or edge, it may be due to a burnt polarizer or panel. These things need a constant airflow over the panels and many people, who don't invest in uninterruptible power supplies (UPS) discover that the first time they have a power blackout, or if a party guest trips over a power cord and yanks an AC cord from the wall, as examples, the fans come to a grinding halt while the panels are still hot and the guts cook. The result is burnt LCD panels and/or polarizers. [This is why in normal use the fan stays on for half a minute or so after shut down. It is cooling the still hot panels.]

The repair for this tends to be pricey, sorry.

Air blowers are weaker and less effective than cans of "compressed air", however if you hold one of these cans improperly and inadvertently squirt some fluid you can pretty much destroy the panel (or at least necessitate a professional cleaning of the fluid residue which may cost hundreds of dollars). It is a toss up.

In all optical use I carefully hold my compressed air upright at all times and always give a short test blast against my hand to check for liquid being in the tube prior to each use, from the nearly exact same held position I then use to clean the optics. [I have never cleaned my pj internally though and would be hesitant to unless there is no other recourse.]

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

Last edited by m. zillch; 09-29-2015 at 11:21 AM.
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post #4849 of 4852 Old 09-29-2015, 01:53 PM
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Thanks for your answer. I would also bet my money on the burnt panel or polarizer.
Though I will try to clean the panels later this week and see if it just dust what can be removed by cleaning.

And yes, I was talking about the discolouration which might point more to the burnt panel/polarizer.

Yes, I know that repairing to burned panel/polarizer is very pricey, and it is not worth to do projector this old. It this can't be saved by cleaning the panels, then I just need to raise some money up and buy new projector.
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post #4850 of 4852 Old 09-30-2015, 06:09 PM
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I did clean the LCD-panels, as well as polarization filters. There was dust just like hell, and yes the rest of which is elsewhere should be removed (otherwise the picture is soon dusty as I started), but was forced to try in between, that what it did on the picture or whether the entire device retrace anymore. Heh. It did.

It was pretty therapeutic. It is that much better now, but it just does not get any whiter than it is now, so something is still broken. If I understand nothing of these, so I consider that a red polarization filter was burned at least the clearly in the middle. Green and blue apparently undamaged. Apparently the red polarisation filter is available as a spare part, but costs $ 120, so pretty expensive trial if that dosen't help...
It's a pity that I didin't discovered how this "block" gets off where the LCD -panels are that I could got short to at those, as would any of them be burned out or all they in good condition...
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post #4851 of 4852 Old 09-30-2015, 06:34 PM
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...To my eyes the picture seems blueish at very large area. What might cause it? Is it the burned red polarizing filter or is there also something else broken what cause the blue colour screen at the top and sides?

Here is picture of the burn polarizer also.
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post #4852 of 4852 Old 10-04-2015, 11:48 AM
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Heh, the burn polariser looks red and it is red, but actually is the "blue" polarizer. Panasonic part number TEEC0050. Will have to look where I'll find that cheapest and maybe try if changing that helps.
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