Official Panasonic PT-AE3000U OWNERS Thread. - Page 22 - AVS Forum
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post #631 of 4830 Old 11-11-2008, 09:17 AM
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My projector is showing slight color shifts over a few seconds. I first noticed it a couple of nights ago while watching Star Wars II and thought it might be a strange effect of the frame interpolation feature.

But last night I saw it while watching a black and white movie, Manchurian Candidate. It could have been a really bad movie transfer to digital until I froze the image at one point. The still image continued to show slight hue changes. So I don't think it is caused by frame interpolation or upconversion to 1080p. I am running HDMI from the DVD player to the 3000, So I think whatever it is is coming from the projector.

Could it be a supply power problem? I have really old wiring in the living room theater. OR a lack of grounding? All of the theater components are grounded together through a conditioning power strip. But the strip isn't grounded since the outlets have only two supply wires. I will eventually re-wire the room. But until then if it is a power problem, is there anything I can do to clean up the power?

Or is color shifting caused by something else entirely?
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post #632 of 4830 Old 11-11-2008, 10:46 AM
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HDMI connection on ASUS P5N7A-VM motherboard will not boot with Panasonic PT-AE3000.
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post #633 of 4830 Old 11-11-2008, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xavier View Post

HDMI connection on ASUS P5N7A-VM motherboard will not boot with Panasonic PT-AE3000.

Do you mean that the computer wont boot, when connected to the Panny?
You could snip off the power pin from the HDMI cable. I did that with my PC DVI cable, but I can't remember which pin it was I snipped as it was 2 years ago now. HDMI is fiddlier too I suppose.
Still - there are workarounds, which should get you going.
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post #634 of 4830 Old 11-11-2008, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maestro J View Post

Could you elaborate on this? What is the flicker setting for and how did you adjust it?
Anything else in the service menu to take a look at for adjustments?

The service menu is accessed by hitting:

pwr-right-up-down-up-down-enter

The flicker settings and self check are the only day to day useful things in there.

Once in the flicker menu you attempt to minimise flicker over the Red, Green & Blue screens for the given orientation you are using (sounds a bit complicated, but it'll make sense when you're in there)

Other stuff is: (and this is from memory so apologies for missing stuff)

FanFullMode - self explanatory
OS - defeats reflection noise in analogue component input at the expense of clarity
HPLL - something to do with non-standard base video.

Have fun

Mark
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post #635 of 4830 Old 11-11-2008, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kendo70433 View Post

My projector is showing slight color shifts over a few seconds. I first noticed it a couple of nights ago while watching Star Wars II and thought it might be a strange effect of the frame interpolation feature.

But last night I saw it while watching a black and white movie, Manchurian Candidate. It could have been a really bad movie transfer to digital until I froze the image at one point. The still image continued to show slight hue changes. So I don't think it is caused by frame interpolation or upconversion to 1080p. I am running HDMI from the DVD player to the 3000, So I think whatever it is is coming from the projector.

Could it be a supply power problem? I have really old wiring in the living room theater. OR a lack of grounding? All of the theater components are grounded together through a conditioning power strip. But the strip isn't grounded since the outlets have only two supply wires. I will eventually re-wire the room. But until then if it is a power problem, is there anything I can do to clean up the power?

Or is color shifting caused by something else entirely?

Sounds to me like the LCD response is going doolally!! I very much doubt it's the power or the ground. Faulty unit in my opinion - it's usual to see some static colour shift over an LCD, but not dynamic!!! At least not noticable,

Back to the shop??

Mark
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post #636 of 4830 Old 11-11-2008, 02:55 PM
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This thread for a Panny 1000 describes fluctuations due to the lamp.

the earlier thread

I have been running in Eco mode. I'll try Normal and see what happens.

I really don't want to send it back for repair, though I will if I have to.
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post #637 of 4830 Old 11-11-2008, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markswift2003 View Post

The service menu is accessed by hitting:

pwr-right-up-down-up-down-enter

The flicker settings and self check are the only day to day useful things in there.

Once in the flicker menu you attempt to minimise flicker over the Red, Green & Blue screens for the given orientation you are using (sounds a bit complicated, but it'll make sense when you're in there)

Other stuff is: (and this is from memory so apologies for missing stuff)

FanFullMode - self explanatory
OS - defeats reflection noise in analogue component input at the expense of clarity
HPLL - something to do with non-standard base video.

Have fun

Mark

Thanks. I must have missed those instructions.
So what does changing the flicker setting actually do? Also, have you noticed a change for the better since you adjusted it?
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post #638 of 4830 Old 11-11-2008, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CT_Wiebe View Post


philba -- But the AE300 is only 1/4HD and does not have HDCP. You are also not running the high bandwidth Blu-Ray or 1080i/p sources. What works in your case won't necessarily work for the latest equipment. As a matter of fact, I may have to buy a new set of HDMI cables for my new equipment, too.

That's nice but I have an AE3000U. 300 was a typo. Brand new cable from monoprice. 50ft 22 ga. And yes, I'm using a 1080p/60 source. No sparklies. Crystal clear.
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post #639 of 4830 Old 11-11-2008, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philba View Post

That's nice but I have an AE3000U. 300 was a typo. Brand new cable from monoprice. 50ft 22 ga. And yes, I'm using a 1080p/60 source. No sparklies. Crystal clear.

Again, different cables with different components offer different results.

It is great that you are getting perfect performance.
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post #640 of 4830 Old 11-11-2008, 07:36 PM
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I have been in a long learning curve for about a year now and finally have my HT room complete. Built from sratch by my self. walls, cabinets, counters, floors, wiring etc etc. Final install Sunday was my Panny 3000u and I have to say I could not be happier. Wife and kids all love the final result. The main reason for my first post is to say I have been reading several thousand posts over the last year trying to learn everything I can but it seemed the more I read the more confused I got. Nontheless I want to thank everyone for this great site and also thanks to PP for there service and help. I have alot more to learn and I thought I would get it profesionally calibrated but honestly I can not see why. I may change my mind after I learn more meanwhile its offf to the movies and games.

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post #641 of 4830 Old 11-11-2008, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kendo70433 View Post

My projector is showing slight color shifts over a few seconds.

So the problem occurs even when you freeze the movie on a single frame. Try freezing a white or light gray screen and see if it is actually occurring all the time but it is so subtle that you only notice it on certain material, or not. Then see if it is happening on all inputs or just HDMI. Are you sure the color shift is over the entire image top to bottom or might it be a large band over a certain area and if so does that area slowly migrate over the screen (usually vertically)?

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #642 of 4830 Old 11-11-2008, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rss44 View Post

I have been in a long learning curve for about a year now and finally have my HT room complete. Built from sratch by my self. walls, cabinets, counters, floors, wiring etc etc. Final install Sunday was my Panny 3000u and I have to say I could not be happier. Wife and kids all love the final result. The main reason for my first post is to say I have been reading several thousand posts over the last year trying to learn everything I can but it seemed the more I read the more confused I got. Nontheless I want to thank everyone for this great site and also thanks to PP for there service and help. I have alot more to learn and I thought I would get it profesionally calibrated but honestly I can not see why. I may change my mind after I learn more meanwhile its offf to the movies and games.

Randy
Free in Tennessee

First of all, welcome (officially) to AVSForum, and congratulations on getting your room finished!

As far as calibration goes, I've had my Toshiba 52hm84 DLP, my Pioneer 5010fd, and my Panasonic ae1000u projector all ISF-calibrated, and have been pleased with all of the results. With my ae3000u, after running my DVE disc I'm not seeing anything that makes me say "I really need to get this calibrated". I'm not saying I won't do it, but quite honestly, out of the box and with some minor tweaks with contrast, brightness, color, and tint separately on Color 1, Cinema 1, Cinema 3, and Normal, I'm extremely impressed with the overall grayscale and colors that this PJ is producing. I know they can get better, but it's not an extreme need like with my other displays. If I do get it calibrated, I'll be waiting until I get my new Carada screen up (waiting to get my Toshiba out of the theater and into a separate exercise area, and move some audio gear around), which has a 1.4 gain (vs. Da-Lite High Power I've got in there now), as well as a possible receiver or pre/pro upgrade with a Reon-VX chip and ISF settings in it.

In other words, try calibrating the basic settings with an Avia or DVE disc, and watch some movies. If you're happy with the flesh tones and shadow detail, I'd say forget the calibration and spend your money on a new popcorn machine or something .

Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe. -- Albert Einstein
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post #643 of 4830 Old 11-11-2008, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maestro J View Post

Thanks. I must have missed those instructions.
So what does changing the flicker setting actually do? Also, have you noticed a change for the better since you adjusted it?

I'm not too sure what it does, other than stop the RGB components of the picture from strobing in some way, but I have to admit not noticing a change in the picture after doing it.

I kind of view it as part of the calibration process which when taken as a whole does make a massive difference to the pictures.

A few of years ago I had the Panny 700 (or was it the 900 - can't remember as I had both) but whichever one it was, that exhibited a definate vertical banding to the picture which was a real issue to a lot of people at the time. Adjusting the flicker setting was found to be a way to minimise if not cure that effect.

Mark
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post #644 of 4830 Old 11-11-2008, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kendo70433 View Post

This thread for a Panny 1000 describes fluctuations due to the lamp.

the earlier thread

I have been running in Eco mode. I'll try Normal and see what happens.

I really don't want to send it back for repair, though I will if I have to.

Yeah - I saw that post when I had the 1000 and stuff like that is a little worrying - particularly as the 3000 uses the same lamp.

But then, that was a flickering of lamp intensity - from what you describe, which is shifting colours, I'd say that's more likely the LCDs and their sync as its the interaction of the 3 LCDs that define the colour, not the lamp intensity.

One thought, and it may be a red herring - but go into the service menu and adjust flicker (see a couple of my posts above). Don't know if it'll make a difference, but given what interference can do (and I'm talking Newton here, not noise!) I wouldn't be surprised! Worth a go at least.....

Mark
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post #645 of 4830 Old 11-12-2008, 07:35 AM
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UPS should be a knocking at the door any secound now. I have the 2000 now and courious to see the differance. I have a 140'' wide vutec bright white from about 16' I have been very happy with the 2000. I guess Ill see in a few what the fuss is all about opps ups is at the door
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post #646 of 4830 Old 11-12-2008, 08:16 AM
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No 1080P through DirecTV?

I have a DirecTV HD DVR running HDMI to Denon 988 running HDMI to Panasonic AE3000.

When I go to the setup menu of the DVR and select 1080p as a valid resolution, I get no picure, and soon see a message that the resolution is not supported.

This equipment is all new to me, and all settings are pretty much left to default. Any suggestions?

(PS - for those still on the fence, I love the PJ. I'm projecting 115" x 48" 92.35.1) w/ a roughly 13' throw, and it's bright and beautiful. Previous PJ was a Sanyo PLV-60HT clone.)
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post #647 of 4830 Old 11-12-2008, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonesyG View Post

No 1080P through DirecTV?

I have a DirecTV HD DVR running HDMI to Denon 988 running HDMI to Panasonic AE3000.

When I go to the setup menu of the DVR and select 1080p as a valid resolution, I get no picure, and soon see a message that the resolution is not supported.

This equipment is all new to me, and all settings are pretty much left to default. Any suggestions?

(PS - for those still on the fence, I love the PJ. I'm projecting 115" x 48" 92.35.1) w/ a roughly 13' throw, and it's bright and beautiful. Previous PJ was a Sanyo PLV-60HT clone.)

When you get the message that it's not supported, try pressing "Info". That might get it to kick in.

If that doesn't work, keep in mind that there's really nothing available in 1080p via Directv yet anyway. There will be some PPV coming and right now there's a Hulk trailer, but that's it.

It's a new feature and some displays are having problems with the 1080p/24, but Directv continues to refine it, so even if your display doesn't work with 1080p now, it very well could in the near future.

"The dream never dies, just the dreamer."

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post #648 of 4830 Old 11-12-2008, 10:10 AM
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I got 1080p to work with my DirectTV DVR by pressing the info button while it was testing the resolution. I think it takes just a bit longer to sync then what the DVR is expecting and so it reports that the resolution isn't supported but it really is. I then tested out the 1080p Hulk Trailer that they have to download and it looked great.
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post #649 of 4830 Old 11-12-2008, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonH View Post

I got 1080p to work with my DirectTV DVR by pressing the info button while it was testing the resolution. I think it takes just a bit longer to sync then what the DVR is expecting and so it reports that the resolution isn't supported but it really is. I then tested out the 1080p Hulk Trailer that they have to download and it looked great.

I have an HR22 > Pioneer 1018 > AE3000 and had the same issue.
I'll have to press INFO even though I don't see anything, and give it a try.

Thanks !
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post #650 of 4830 Old 11-12-2008, 12:30 PM
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This is my first real projector, but I immediately noticed slight “halos” around peoples faces. I’m guessing this is due to convergence? I ran a test pattern and took the following (crappy camera phone) pictures. By playing with the focus a bit, I was able to get the yellow in the first picture to disappear, but the red became more pronounced. Adjusted this way, the “halos” seemed to improve, but I can still spot them if I’m looking for them.

The picture looks good enough to me, but I’m wondering if I should be seeing better results. Based on other posts, it seems like this is okay, but like I said, I’m new to projectors, and want to make sure I didn’t get a dud.

Also, is the convergence even adjustable? I’m assuming it’s not.


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post #651 of 4830 Old 11-12-2008, 02:18 PM
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Based on that picture it would appear that your contrast is way overblow. However, that could be the picture itself. If that photo is an accurate representation of what you're seeing, I would ask for a replacement.
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post #652 of 4830 Old 11-12-2008, 04:23 PM
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I have a problem and a question. I currently own a projector with a horizontally offset lens. The new AE3000U has a lens in dead center of the box. I have a t-bar for the suspended ceiling EXACTLY in the horizontal center of the screen. So I am going to have to ceiling mount this slightly off-center horizontally. Will the horizontal lens shift work to correct for this or how do I mount this??
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post #653 of 4830 Old 11-12-2008, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tebbens View Post

I have an HR22 > Pioneer 1018 > AE3000 and had the same issue.
I'll have to press INFO even though I don't see anything, and give it a try.

Thanks !

Thanks for the tip. It worked.
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post #654 of 4830 Old 11-12-2008, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batdude View Post

I have a problem and a question. I currently own a projector with a horizontally offset lens. The new AE3000U has a lens in dead center of the box. I have a t-bar for the suspended ceiling EXACTLY in the horizontal center of the screen. So I am going to have to ceiling mount this slightly off-center horizontally. Will the horizontal lens shift work to correct for this or how do I mount this??

The horizontal lens shift will work just fine to correct for this, so don't worry about moving your t-bar or mount.

Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe. -- Albert Einstein
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post #655 of 4830 Old 11-12-2008, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WakJob View Post

This is my first real projector, but I immediately noticed slight “halos” around peoples faces.

Be sure the sharpness control is set to zero (minimum). I can provide links if you don't believe me this is the current wisdom among purists like AVS forum folk.

Convergence is indeed fixed but assuming your photos are showing perhaps a 30th or 100th of the whole screen, what you show is normal. Since there is no scale in your shot it is hard to tell how close you are to the screen or how large the projected cross is.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #656 of 4830 Old 11-12-2008, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmclone View Post

Thanks for the tip. It worked.

Umm, you're welcome.

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post #657 of 4830 Old 11-12-2008, 05:50 PM
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if i have the screen, am i merely zooming until the black bars are off the screen? are the pixels i paid for still being dedicated to making black bars, but i am zooming them off the screen? please help me understand why this is an adequate alternative to vertical stretch, anamorphic lens, and scaling? aside from price...

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post #658 of 4830 Old 11-12-2008, 06:06 PM
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Quote:


Based on that picture it would appear that your contrast is way overblow. However, that could be the picture itself. If that photo is an accurate representation of what you're seeing, I would ask for a replacement.

Quote:


Convergence is indeed fixed but assuming your photos are showing perhaps a 30th or 100th of the whole screen, what you show is normal. Since there is no scale in your shot it is hard to tell how close you are to the screen or how large the projected cross is.

Yes, the picture isn't really representative with respect to the contrast. I'll get some better pictures that show what it actually looks like, and gives a sense of scale.
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post #659 of 4830 Old 11-12-2008, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amp74 View Post

if i have the screen, am i merely zooming until the black bars are off the screen? are the pixels i paid for still being dedicated to making black bars, but i am zooming them off the screen? please help me understand why this is an adequate alternative to vertical stretch, anamorphic lens, and scaling? aside from price...

Yes, the black bars are still there, just zoomed off the screen. But don't assume that's worse than vertical stretch + anamorphic lens. No need to give the reasons here because there's more than one thread devoted to it (e.g. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1082490).
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post #660 of 4830 Old 11-13-2008, 01:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amp74 View Post

if i have the screen, am i merely zooming until the black bars are off the screen? are the pixels i paid for still being dedicated to making black bars, but i am zooming them off the screen? please help me understand why this is an adequate alternative to vertical stretch, anamorphic lens, and scaling? aside from price...

Personally I'd rather watch a Blu-Ray disc as it was encoded pixel for pixel rather than let a projector's electronics interpolate in between pixels, making stuff up and then have another set of optics swing out in front of the existing optics to correct for that! All a bit too Heath Robinson for me!

For me, the biggest issue in the way that the 3000 does it is not the actual process which I think uses the data on the disc in the best way possible - after all, it's the Director and the disc encode bathing those expensive pixels in black - but the light leakage of those so called black bars and therefore the need for perfect masking. Once they figure out a way of making black black then ......... but then that's another story.......
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