Official Panasonic PT-AE3000U OWNERS Thread. - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 4830 Old 11-15-2008, 03:59 PM
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looks like i need a receiver with this function and there is significant variability as to how much delay is offered in differing receivers. so let me know how much is enough.

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post #722 of 4830 Old 11-15-2008, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batdude View Post

For those of you that own the AE3000, what do I need for a ceiling mount? Will a simple universal mount work? How many screws on the AE3000 belly? Better yet does anyone have a photo showing where the screw holes are? Are the screws included?
.

Try here:

http://www.panasonic.com/business/pr...3000/index.asp

A simple Google search for "panasonic" found the site and three clicks later produced this page for AE-3000.
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post #723 of 4830 Old 11-15-2008, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

On the PS3 controller press the triangle button to bring up the on-screen control panel that includes numbers.

Thanks, Krik! Dud, I didn't even think about that!

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post #724 of 4830 Old 11-15-2008, 04:54 PM
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My harmony controls the PT-3000U fine. (has turned on and off every time correctly).

However, when I updated my remote a week ago the projector was listed as the Panasonic PT-AE3000 (no U). The other similar ones (1000U, and 2000U) had the U at the end. I'm not sure if it is still like this, however.

As is the overall consensus, I am thrilled with the projector. I watched some hockey today. I turned the frame creation on and off. Much better in Mode 2 than without!! Football looks great too. I'm so happy not to have blur during sports anymore (sold my JVC RS1 due to the blur that always bothered me).

Blu-rays look great. Verizon Fios varies from amazing to fair. This all depends on the channel and source material. Food network HD looks so good I get hungry watching. The projector passes the wife test too!
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post #725 of 4830 Old 11-15-2008, 06:27 PM
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^"U" means United States distribution. Sometimes there are differences with preset languages, power cords, manuals, safety certifications (eg UL), etc. between different markets but I'm 99% sure the remote IR codes are all the same.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #726 of 4830 Old 11-15-2008, 06:33 PM
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Today a saw a flash frame (like those subliminal advertisements in movies that make you go buy Coke and popcorn at the movies ) from my PTAE3000U.

It was so fast I'm not really sure what it said but the gist was:

"You have activated the anti-piracy protective circuit..."

I think it occurred because my HDMI source was turned off then on by me, yet trying to duplicate the scenario to read it again didn't work. Anyone else seen this messege?
ege?

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #727 of 4830 Old 11-15-2008, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kendo70433 View Post

You are right. Automatic lip sync isn't even possible given 1) the lack of any spec in HDMI or anywhere else, and 2) the fact that sources (tv and DVDs) don't even do a good job of synchronizing video and audio.

I found this page that explains the problem. Read the comments at the bottom as well.

Thanks for the link! In a couple places in the link, it was claimed that HDMI 1.3 includes a spec for the video device to inform the receiver of the video delay (but apparently not in real time, I get the impression it is a one-time thing). But no one there gave any examples of video devices which implement this feature. I cannot find anything in the AE3000 specs that indicate it is capable of sending this information.
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post #728 of 4830 Old 11-15-2008, 08:31 PM
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Anyone in Canada actually received their projector yet? Are they out in the wild here?
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post #729 of 4830 Old 11-15-2008, 09:06 PM
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I control my home theater with a Pronto, and I would like to have a "safe" power off macro (one that won't turn on the projector if it is already off). I would also like to be able to do things in my macros like automatically select Frame Creation and Frame Response modes, and jump to a specific input.

However, as near as I can tell, none of this is really doable with this projector. The only way to turn off the projector is to first hit "power" (which will, obviously, turn on the projector if it is currently off). My last projector had a standby button, and my TV before that was a Sony that had a discreet off IR code. As for making macros for menu items, the menu system A)remembers the last menu item you were on and B)loops - there is no beginning or end.

The closest I've come is that with the Function button you can have control over one sub-menu group. For example, if I set the Function to "Brightness B", I can have my macro be Function, Arrow Down, Arrow Down, Arrow Down, Default. With that I've set frame creation to off, and can add right once (for mode 1) or right twice (for mode 2). However, that will only let me make macros for items in the the Advanced menu, and Frame Response is in the Option menu.

Any ideas?
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post #730 of 4830 Old 11-15-2008, 10:31 PM
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^I'm a Univ. Remote Control programmer myself and the continual lack of discrete on/off/input codes on Panasonic units, despite our complaining, is really frustrating. "Safe off" does not exist AFAIK, sorry. There are a few extra commands on earlier remotes (PTAE900) which, for instance, will take you straight to the HDMI ins rather than all the inputs but the first signal will behave differently if you already are on an HDMI (it just indicates which but doesn't change) vs. say a component input. Very frustrating.

The serial jack I believe will take discrete commands but who can afford that kind of gear? {Crestron, AMX etc.}

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #731 of 4830 Old 11-15-2008, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

The serial jack I believe will take discrete commands but who can afford that kind of gear? {Crestron, AMX etc.}

Or you can DIY with something like CQC and a PC, but then it turns into a hobby.
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post #732 of 4830 Old 11-15-2008, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvdvideo View Post

Anyone in Canada actually received their projector yet? Are they out in the wild here?

yup i recieved mine today just finished setting it up, ive been messin all night with the frame creation mode, mode2 realy messes with your head everythin is just soo smooth its a little too unrealstic, did you order one form anywhere in canada?
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post #733 of 4830 Old 11-16-2008, 02:37 AM
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Hi !

I plan to have
BD55 hdmi to panasonic projecteur PTAE 3000
BD55 analog 5.1 output to receiver NAD T742.

I read on several posts that the receiver cannot delay its analog inputs.

I read that you can delay up to 15ms in the BD55 to compensate the distance between hp.

Problem :

A feature in the projector is frame interpolation which delay the video up to 130ms.
How can I further delay the sound to get rid of lipsynch issues ? If at all possible...

Thanks a bunch
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post #734 of 4830 Old 11-16-2008, 05:13 AM
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Has a general consensus formed on the optimum screen gain for this projector? Back in 2004 when I bought my current 720p LCD projector, the conventional wisdom said 1.0 or even slightly negative gain gray to help improve the blacks. With this projector, it sounds like the blacks are great and people are going with higher-grain screens like 1.2 or 1.4.
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post #735 of 4830 Old 11-16-2008, 08:06 AM
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I've been wondering the same thing, but a consensus may be hard to determine due to factors beyond the projector alone. Projector People and Elite Screens are both recommending a white screen with 1.0-1.1 gain. Da-Lite is recommending HC gray if there is any ambient light in the room. They are not recommending the High Power screen with this projector. To figure out what will work best for me, I have requested samples from the above mentioned folks as well as Carada. I'll test this week and let you know what I think.
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post #736 of 4830 Old 11-16-2008, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mind Voyager View Post

I control my home theater with a Pronto, and I would like to have a "safe" power off macro (one that won't turn on the projector if it is already off). I would also like to be able to do things in my macros like automatically select Frame Creation and Frame Response modes, and jump to a specific input.

However, as near as I can tell, none of this is really doable with this projector. The only way to turn off the projector is to first hit "power" (which will, obviously, turn on the projector if it is currently off). My last projector had a standby button, and my TV before that was a Sony that had a discreet off IR code. As for making macros for menu items, the menu system A)remembers the last menu item you were on and B)loops - there is no beginning or end.

The closest I've come is that with the Function button you can have control over one sub-menu group. For example, if I set the Function to "Brightness B", I can have my macro be Function, Arrow Down, Arrow Down, Arrow Down, Default. With that I've set frame creation to off, and can add right once (for mode 1) or right twice (for mode 2). However, that will only let me make macros for items in the the Advanced menu, and Frame Response is in the Option menu.

Any ideas?

I have an MX-700 remote, and there is a way to do a safe power-on with the Panasonic projectors. I've been using it for years with my AE-900, and the same commands work with the 3000. In fact, I haven't even reprogrammed my remote at all for the new PJ - everything I've tried so far works from the 900 remote.

Anyway, by default, the projector is configured so you have to hit "Power" twice to turn it off. If you program a macro to send "power", then "right-arrow", then "select", this will cancel the power-off if the device is already on. If the device is off, it simply turns it on and the other commands are ignored.

Good luck and let me know if you have any more questions about the macro.

Calvin & Hobbes - Greatest. Comic. Ever.
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post #737 of 4830 Old 11-16-2008, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post

Or you can DIY with something like CQC and a PC, but then it turns into a hobby.

...and it means you have to leave your computer booted 24/7 or at least boot it up every time you want to watch TV. Not for me. Thanks though.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #738 of 4830 Old 11-16-2008, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R o d View Post

To figure out what will work best for me, I have requested samples from the above mentioned folks as well as Carada. I'll test this week and let you know what I think.

Thanks, I'm looking forward to what you find out!
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post #739 of 4830 Old 11-16-2008, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dedwards View Post

If the device is off, it simply turns it on and the other commands are ignored.

I'm using the same macro with my MX-500, but by "safe off" I think Mind Voyager wants an Off command that does not turn the PJ on if the Off command is executed when the PJ is already off.

The reason is that you might accidentally hit the Off button and then leave the room, which would result in the PJ being left on for hours with no signal.

I don't think there's a way to do a "safe off" that with the Panasonics, unfortunately.
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post #740 of 4830 Old 11-16-2008, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

...and it means you have to leave your computer booted 24/7 or at least boot it up every time you want to watch TV. Not for me. Thanks though.

The same is true of AMX or Creston. I thought you were just worried about the cost.

You could use a cast-off notebook. It doesn't take much processing power and the notebooks stop running their displays and hard drives after a period of disuse. And a notebook doesn't take much power anyway.

I've been thinking of this route myself. My main stumbling block is the DIY fiddling. It's not that I don't love tweeking, just that I don't have the time.
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post #741 of 4830 Old 11-16-2008, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

Has a general consensus formed on the optimum screen gain for this projector? .

The blacks are good but not great. I think it is impossible to say there is a "correct" gain factor for it. As the other dude said, there are a lot of other variables besides which projector you have like:

Throw distance.
Zoom setting.
Screen size.
Room lighting.
Dynamic iris on or off.
Eco mode on or off.
Necessary viewing angles.
Annoyance factor of hot spotting .
Do you personally prefer pitch black at the expense of dimmer image or a brighter image at the expense of merely very dark gray blacks.

Without a doubt I'd try the screen you have now first and go from there, personally.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #742 of 4830 Old 11-16-2008, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

The serial jack I believe will take discrete commands but who can afford that kind of gear? {Crestron, AMX etc.}

Hmm, I will have to look into that. I want to eventually have a PC as part of my home theater setup for a number of reasons, and this may add to that list. And I certainly feel your frustration - my system has been pretty "one button press" friendly, and I feel like I've taken a step back by including this projector in my system.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HMenkey View Post

I'm using the same macro with my MX-500, but by "safe off" I think Mind Voyager wants an Off command that does not turn the PJ on if the Off command is executed when the PJ is already off.

The reason is that you might accidentally hit the Off button and then leave the room, which would result in the PJ being left on for hours with no signal.

Exactly. My Power On is a little different but same idea - Power -> Return. At the moment, the only solutions look to be either to try the serial route, find a remote that stores variables, or go to one of the expensive automation options that actually can detect whether a device is on/off. To add insult to injury, my last projector had a timeout option -- if there was no signal for 15 minutes, the projector would turn itself off. No such option for this projector.
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post #743 of 4830 Old 11-16-2008, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hemster View Post

Question for the lucky owners of this unit: What's the scaler like in this PJ? Does it have any special video processing (3rd party or Panny's own) such as Faroudja's DCDi or Silicon Optix's Reon? I need to decide if I really need bother with a receiver or a processor that has video processing capabilities or if the Panny will do a better job.

Thanks,
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post #744 of 4830 Old 11-16-2008, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post

The same is true of AMX or Creston. I thought you were just worried about the cost.

You could use a cast-off notebook. It doesn't take much processing power and the notebooks stop running their displays and hard drives after a period of disuse. And a notebook doesn't take much power anyway.

Never having owned a Crestron or AMX system I had no idea they had the power consumption of a PC. To me that's another good reason not to get them. The power consumption of the PTAE3000U is .08W in standby and I like that, not having to learn or spend the time tweaking CQC, add a bunch of boxes/connections to my setup, run a very long serial cord up to my projector, build a light block so that when my discarded notebook wakes up the screen doesn't illuminate my darkened theatre room, and so on.

If I had a whole house system that controlled lights, A/C (not that I have that), heat, and the TV/stereo system I'd consider the power consumption of say a PC, but doing all that just so I can have a single keystroke off button programmed into my remote's "system off" macro? No way.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #745 of 4830 Old 11-16-2008, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank1940 View Post

Try here:

http://www.panasonic.com/business/pr...3000/index.asp

A simple Google search for "panasonic" found the site and three clicks later produced this page for AE-3000.


I know about Panasonic's site. You missed the point or maybe I wasn't clear. Let me restate. Can I use a simple $40 universal mount for the AE3000? Do I buy one with 3 screw holes or with 4? I would hate to wait to take delivery on the PJ, decide what's needed for mounting, then wait another 4 weeks for the mount to arrive.
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post #746 of 4830 Old 11-16-2008, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by dvdvideo View Post

Anyone in Canada actually received their projector yet? Are they out in the wild here?


Nope, still waiting. I don't know if they are even shipping yet in Canada.
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post #747 of 4830 Old 11-16-2008, 10:14 AM
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Hemster, I can't say I'm an expert but to my eye the PTAE3000U does very well on most tests found on the HD HQV Benchmark Blueray disk through HDMI at least. Component comes up borderline on some of the resolution tests but I can't say that the problem isn't with my source, a Sony BDPS350 Blueray deck. I have never seen an HQV test done on it by an independent reviewer with a perfect monitor to assess its inherent short comings.

Anyone know of any?

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #748 of 4830 Old 11-16-2008, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rottiman View Post

Would someone please post their experience with how quiet the fan is in the Panasonic PT-AE3000U, especially compared to the Mitsubishi HC6500. When I was evaluating the HC6500 it was for all practically purposes silent and I was right next to it. I am one of those individuals irritated by fan noise from projectors. Thanks!

I took issue with the fan noise on the Panasonic AE-1000U after I had had it for some time. Originally, I had the AE-1000U mounted on the lower level of a low end table, and was pretty much shielded from the direct noise from the unit, and had no problem with it. However, after mounting it on the ceiling 6 feet overhead (from ear level at a seated position), I found the perceived noise pretty objectionable. I went on AVS asking about "noise", and received many responses, saying it was "Quiet". Everyone like me had only a Radio Shack Meter measuring at best, only down to 50 dB. So, I purchased a calibrated Sper Scientific Spund Level Meter, and the C Scale Sound Level was 42 dB. I found it very irritating, and shipped it off to Panasonic for testing and "repair". Panasonic returned it untouched, saying it was fine!

I just purchased the AE-3000U, have it mounted in exactly the same ceiling position (and with the same seating position), and have NO problem with the noise produced by the projector. Unlike the previous projector, although if I listen for the noise during a movie, I can hear it at times, but otherwise I really do not notice it. Interestingly enough, using the same meter, the noise measures out at 43.1 dB, C Scale! But you see, the frequencies being generated by the fan on the projector are different from the previous one, and are evidently such that they are just not as obtrusive! There you have it.
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post #749 of 4830 Old 11-16-2008, 11:06 AM
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A question for those with appropriate test equipment ( and indirectly to Ekkehart): What is the contrast ratio in Normal mode? I was trying a few settings last night after watching 'Apocalypto' in Colour 1 mode. I put it in Normal mode and rewatched a couple of scenes again and thought that the image looked even better and strangely sharper (maybe due to the extra lumens?). I only adjusted Contrast and Brightness with the waveform monitor.

I then paused on a fade to black and flicked between Colour 1 and Normal and to be honest I couldn't really say that Normal was less 'black'. My room is fully darkened with a lot of extra black cloth hung up to reduce reflections. Because I had to bring up the menu to change settings made, this means that the eye is distracted by the bright menu. I wonder if the iris closes more for a 0IRE in Normal compared to Colour 1, which might explain? My old AE1000 closed the iris more in Dynamic mode for 0IRE compared to Colour 1 as I ran it once with the top cover off and compared the iris response in different modes with 0IRE and 100IRE inputs. I don't want to run my new AE3000 with the top off though.

I'd be interested if anyone has a light sensor and can just check if there is a difference and how much. I don't get mine until Christmas......

EDIT: I found the Cine4home review states 10,000:1 in Normal (D65) compared to 13,000:1 in Cinema 1 (D65) so I take it this is after calibration, what I saw last night wasn't calibrated, so maybe out of the box Normal has higher CR or perhaps my eye was fooled by the bright menu between changing modes, so I couldn't see that there was a difference in black level?

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #750 of 4830 Old 11-16-2008, 12:54 PM
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Can I use a simple $40 universal mount for the AE3000?

I used a universal omnimount. The projector has 5 mounting points in a really odd array. This mount worked okay, but I had to used some spacers (included with the mount), to clear the rubber pads on the projector. I owned the mount before the projecter, but if I did it again, I'd get the oem mount.
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