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post #1 of 31 Old 02-03-2009, 08:06 PM - Thread Starter
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How big of a difference will you generally see btwn projectors that run at $1500 compared to $3000. I currently own a Kuro and I know the blacks will be unmatched vs a projector but the size would be great for movies. It would be going in a small 12X10 room so the screen size and throw distance would be pretty small and the room would have complete control of lighting
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post #2 of 31 Old 02-04-2009, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natemu06 View Post

How big of a difference will you generally see btwn projectors that run at $1500 compared to $3000. I currently own a Kuro and I know the blacks will be unmatched vs a projector but the size would be great for movies. It would be going in a small 12X10 room so the screen size and throw distance would be pretty small and the room would have complete control of lighting


I think for a Kuro user the difference will be significant as you are used to very deep blacks. Epson 6500UB is a great choice. What size screen so you want. You might be satisfied with a 720p sharp dt-510 for $700
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post #3 of 31 Old 02-04-2009, 07:45 AM - Thread Starter
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I was thinking 720P as well since I have such a small room and such a short throw distance. I believe the wall is only 9ft across and the viewing distance would only be 10-11ft. Any idea what size screen this puts me at?
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post #4 of 31 Old 02-04-2009, 08:15 AM - Thread Starter
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I am also used to a calibrated plasma and I hate the look of bright out of the box LCD's. Would this play a role in what I am looking for? I guess I'm more interested in accuracy than how bright it can be. Any other suggestions or opinions?
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post #5 of 31 Old 02-04-2009, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natemu06 View Post

I was thinking 720P as well since I have such a small room and such a short throw distance. I believe the wall is only 9ft across and the viewing distance would only be 10-11ft. Any idea what size screen this puts me at?

84 - 92" screen. Get a DLP. For 1080p, look no further than the BenQ W5000. For 720p, you'll need to search for an older DLP with darkchip 3 for black levels approaching (but not quite) Kuro.

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post #6 of 31 Old 02-04-2009, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natemu06 View Post

I was thinking 720P as well since I have such a small room and such a short throw distance. I believe the wall is only 9ft across and the viewing distance would only be 10-11ft. Any idea what size screen this puts me at?

From 11 feet viewing distance for 720p i would keep it at about 100" diagonal (7.25 feet wide) max which is 1.5x screen width.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Shar...ulator-pro.htm
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post #7 of 31 Old 02-05-2009, 08:40 AM - Thread Starter
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So I should look at a 720p DLP for good blacks? What about the screen? I would like DIY probably
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post #8 of 31 Old 02-05-2009, 08:51 AM
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A DIY grey screen like the EasyFlex formula or the Black Widow formula will improve your black levels and work well with a DLP.

This is my Optoma HD70 from 10 to 11 feet away on a 92" EasyFlex-06 screen:





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post #9 of 31 Old 02-05-2009, 10:14 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eightninesuited View Post

84 - 92" screen. Get a DLP. For 1080p, look no further than the BenQ W5000. For 720p, you'll need to search for an older DLP with darkchip 3 for black levels approaching (but not quite) Kuro.

A lot has to do with the room. The black level of my Marantz VP-12S4 is good, but it does not come close to matching the Kuro. My Planar PD-7130 is very close to matching the black level of the Kuro. The Marantz is in a non light controlled room with off white walls and light colored wood floor. The Planar is in a room that that is painted flat black. Even the floor is black. In that room the Planar is very close to the Kuro. If I put the marantz in that room it too would be close in black level to the Kuro.
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post #10 of 31 Old 02-05-2009, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reconlabtech View Post

A DIY grey screen like the EasyFlex formula or the Black Widow formula will improve your black levels and work well with a DLP.

This is my Optoma HD70 from 10 to 11 feet away on a 92" EasyFlex-06 screen:

Recon - I'm looking at projector for a small room, can you tell me the dimensions of your 92" screen?
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post #11 of 31 Old 02-05-2009, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbroadus View Post

Recon - I'm looking at projector for a small room, can you tell me the dimensions of your 92" screen?

80" x 45"
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post #12 of 31 Old 02-05-2009, 09:01 PM - Thread Starter
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If I'm looking to stay very close to, or under 1k for the projector would the optoma HD70 mentioned above be a good choice? What else should I look at in this price range for deep blacks? I glanced at the DIY laminate screens and it seemed like a good option...can you just order the laminate in a certain grey color for better blacks?
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post #13 of 31 Old 02-05-2009, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natemu06 View Post

If I'm looking to stay very close to, or under 1k for the projector would the optoma HD70 mentioned above be a good choice? What else should I look at in this price range for deep blacks? I glanced at the DIY laminate screens and it seemed like a good option...can you just order the laminate in a certain grey color for better blacks?

Sharp DT-510 - excellent price right now and better black levels than the Optoma.

Fashion Gray is what you see talked about for laminate gray screen. If you have light control, you may not need a gray screen.
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post #14 of 31 Old 02-05-2009, 09:28 PM
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Check this one out http://www.touchboards.com/eiki/EikiEIP-1600T.asp, Sharp XV-Z3000 clone. Very good price, very good blacks and will give you a 92" screen in your room.

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post #15 of 31 Old 02-05-2009, 09:30 PM
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wow.....nice pics bro. Quality looks perfect from the pics anyways. and thats a 720p PJ??? eeks!

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post #16 of 31 Old 02-06-2009, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reconlabtech View Post

A DIY grey screen like the EasyFlex formula or the Black Widow formula will improve your black levels and work well with a DLP.

This is my Optoma HD70 from 10 to 11 feet away on a 92" EasyFlex-06 screen:






Where is this setup, family room? The black levels look really good, how much ambient light?
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post #17 of 31 Old 02-06-2009, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbroadus View Post

Where is this setup, family room? The black levels look really good, how much ambient light?

It's a little 12x12 room we watch tv in.

There are two windows of which you see one and one is back where we sit. I have room darkening shades in the windows for daytime viewing.

Notice the walls are stucco colored and the ceiling is white. I have no border around the painted screen area. And yet, the picture is good. Just imagine how much better it would be if I treated the room to control light and put a border around the screen.

On the opposite wall from the windows is a four foot entry into the room that has french doors that are mostly glass.

As long as I pull the shades during the day, the image is good for sports.

The first two pics were taken at night when there is no light coming into the room and we just have lights on in the next room to be able to see the remotes and getting in and out of the room. The third pic is from the middle of the day with just the shades drawn.

No light is allowed to shine directly on the screen. I have directed track lighting in the room for reading or doing other things while the PJ is on. The gray color screen helps a lot with contrast.
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post #18 of 31 Old 02-07-2009, 01:55 PM - Thread Starter
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What are the drawbacks of a grey screen vs a white screen?
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post #19 of 31 Old 02-07-2009, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natemu06 View Post

What are the drawbacks of a grey screen vs a white screen?

Not sure I would call them "drawback". Screen "colors" are generally selected on personal preference, projector type and light control. But at the end of the day it really comes down to personal preference.

But generally grey screens produce better blacks, white screens are generally slightly brighter with silver screens brighter still.
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post #20 of 31 Old 02-08-2009, 09:34 AM
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I'm would like to have a motorized remote control screen that would drop-down over my plasma, what are the disadvantages of a drop-down screen? Do they bow or curl and how much more expensive are they than a fixed screen?
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post #21 of 31 Old 02-08-2009, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbroadus View Post

I'm would like to have a motorized remote control screen that would drop-down over my plasma, what are the disadvantages of a drop-down screen? Do they bow or curl and how much more expensive are they than a fixed screen?

On the screens you can afford, curls and waves become a problem. On the tensioned screens which run considerably higher in cost, those problems are handled.
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post #22 of 31 Old 02-08-2009, 01:56 PM
 
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Originally Posted by reconlabtech View Post

On the screens you can afford, curls and waves become a problem. On the tensioned screens which run considerably higher in cost, those problems are handled.

Non-tensioned power screens are cheaper than fixed screens.
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post #23 of 31 Old 02-08-2009, 05:03 PM
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Non-tensioned power screens are cheaper than fixed screens.

But the fixed screens don't curl.

You can buy the screen material and make your own frame too.

But he wants a motorized screen...
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post #24 of 31 Old 02-09-2009, 06:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Do you even need a frame with something like laminate? Can't you just mount it straight to the wall? I was also curious on how far down from the ceiling the screen can be if you ceiling mount it. Right now I enjoy my plasma at eye level but I'm sure you would have to go a little higher correct? Do you run into any problems with the projector being "angled" downward? Sorry I know very little about projectors
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post #25 of 31 Old 02-09-2009, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natemu06 View Post

Do you even need a frame with something like laminate? Can't you just mount it straight to the wall? I was also curious on how far down from the ceiling the screen can be if you ceiling mount it. Right now I enjoy my plasma at eye level but I'm sure you would have to go a little higher correct? Do you run into any problems with the projector being "angled" downward? Sorry I know very little about projectors

You don't need a frame but you will benefit from a black border around your screen. You can use felt or velvet or some kind of light absorbing material.

The rule of thumb for where your screen should be mounted is that your eyes should look at the screen at the point where 2/3rds of the screen is above your eyes and 1/3rd of the screen is below your eyes. So unless you will watch while standing up, you really don't want the bottom of the screen 5 feet up from the floor.
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post #26 of 31 Old 02-09-2009, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natemu06 View Post

Do you run into any problems with the projector being "angled" downward? Sorry I know very little about projectors

You don't angle the PJ.

You use the image offset from the PJ (most DLPs at this price range) and the ceiling mount to get your image in the right place, or, you use lens shift on the PJ (most LCD HT PJs) to move the image to where you want it to appear.
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post #27 of 31 Old 02-09-2009, 10:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. I have been looking into the DIY laminate thread and it seems like that would be the way I would go. Can you build a wood frame to attach the laminate to and just paint the borders of the wood black or do you need to use certain materials such as velvet on the border? And why do you benefit from a border, is it similar to the way people put a backlight behind their TV?
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post #28 of 31 Old 02-09-2009, 12:26 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natemu06 View Post

Thanks. I have been looking into the DIY laminate thread and it seems like that would be the way I would go. Can you build a wood frame to attach the laminate to and just paint the borders of the wood black or do you need to use certain materials such as velvet on the border? And why do you benefit from a border, is it similar to the way people put a backlight behind their TV?

Yes you do need to build a frame to attach the laminate. That will help hold the laminate straight. You can use a painted border, but a black (light absorbing) border is better. The purpose of the border is to absorb any over spill of light so that it is not seen. It also helps fool your eye with regards to the contrast.
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post #29 of 31 Old 02-09-2009, 12:56 PM - Thread Starter
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So what materials do you suggest?
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post #30 of 31 Old 02-09-2009, 02:07 PM
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