*Official* Optoma HD20 Thread - Page 135 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4021 of 4045 Old 12-30-2014, 02:18 PM
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Hi there,

My HD20 suddenly went dark while I was watching a movie. The lamp fail lights turned on though my lamp is supposed to have more than 1000 hours left. I installed a new lamp anyways, but it didn't fix the problem. The lamp still wouldn't turn on. The power light will blink green for a few minutes. Then the power light will blink amber and the lamp light will turn red.

What could be the problem and how can I fix it?

Thanks in advance!
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post #4022 of 4045 Old 12-31-2014, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by tonicx View Post
Hi there,

My HD20 suddenly went dark while I was watching a movie. The lamp fail lights turned on though my lamp is supposed to have more than 1000 hours left. I installed a new lamp anyways, but it didn't fix the problem. The lamp still wouldn't turn on. The power light will blink green for a few minutes. Then the power light will blink amber and the lamp light will turn red.

What could be the problem and how can I fix it?

Thanks in advance!
While a lamp is rating for so many hours, that certainly does not mean it is guaranteed to last that long. Is the replacement lamp an OEM unit? Seems the heat of non Optoma authentic bulbs and bulb housings are hotter and cause issues. The LED lights simply means "Lamp failure". Though past pages on this thread show that people have had to send their units in for motherboard repair went a new bulb did not solve the issue. Wish I had some more ideas. I am guessing you have already tried moving the power cord for a long period of time to see if that makes any difference after the new bulb.
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post #4023 of 4045 Old 01-01-2015, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by xenon2000 View Post
While a lamp is rating for so many hours, that certainly does not mean it is guaranteed to last that long. Is the replacement lamp an OEM unit? Seems the heat of non Optoma authentic bulbs and bulb housings are hotter and cause issues. The LED lights simply means "Lamp failure". Though past pages on this thread show that people have had to send their units in for motherboard repair went a new bulb did not solve the issue. Wish I had some more ideas. I am guessing you have already tried moving the power cord for a long period of time to see if that makes any difference after the new bulb.
Thanks for your reply!

The replacement lamp I got is not an Optoma authentic bulb, but I don't think the heat is an issue because the bulb was never turned on. There seems to be some problem with the power supply to the bulb. Do you know how much does a mainboard repair cost?
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post #4024 of 4045 Old 01-01-2015, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by tonicx View Post
Thanks for your reply!

The replacement lamp I got is not an Optoma authentic bulb, but I don't think the heat is an issue because the bulb was never turned on. There seems to be some problem with the power supply to the bulb. Do you know how much does a mainboard repair cost?
I don't work for Optoma and haven't done the repair or had the repair done. I was wondering if the bulb that was in it at the time it died, was the original bulb or not. Either way it doesn't really matter at this point, but I thought you should know because once you get it working again, if you are using a cheap bulb then you may get other issues like spots and worse.

I am currently only a previous HD20 owner. I owned mine for almost 4 years before I sold it with the house. So I no longer own an HD20. Your best bet is to contact Optoma and see if they can at least give you a cost range over the phone. Otherwise they will most likely ask that it be sent to them for diagnosis. Out of warranty you will be responsible for shipping and possibly a diagnosis fee if you don't go through with the repair estimate.

Good luck with it and if you solve the issue, I hope you document it here. As I said before, it appears others with this issue didn't repair it themselves and when they sent it in, Optoma usually replaces the mainboard. Could also be a lamp ballast circuit. Unfortunately, while you can buy many parts for the HD20; I personally would hate to start buying parts without some degree of confidence that the part was bad in the first place.
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post #4025 of 4045 Old 01-13-2015, 08:46 AM
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Hello friends,

My Optoma is 4 years old and original lamp is 720 hours used. Today, I noticed that there is an abnormal amount of white light coming out of the front grill. I looked inside and found out that the plastic at the back of the lamp (that has logo printed on it) has broken and separated from rest of the lamp. It is lying at the projector floor. Rest of the lamp and connecting wires are intact. As a result, I can see a bright source of light at the back of the lamp. This light fills out the room.

Can I use the projector by putting a cover on the light coming out of the grill. Do I need to worry if this broken bulb can cause more damage to the projector? I have lots of hours left in this lamp.

Maybe I can open the projector (as it is not in warranty) and put a electrical tape around the broken part and cover the light source.

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post #4026 of 4045 Old 01-14-2015, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by wecaz View Post
Hello friends,

My Optoma is 4 years old and original lamp is 720 hours used. Today, I noticed that there is an abnormal amount of white light coming out of the front grill. I looked inside and found out that the plastic at the back of the lamp (that has logo printed on it) has broken and separated from rest of the lamp. It is lying at the projector floor. Rest of the lamp and connecting wires are intact. As a result, I can see a bright source of light at the back of the lamp. This light fills out the room.

Can I use the projector by putting a cover on the light coming out of the grill. Do I need to worry if this broken bulb can cause more damage to the projector? I have lots of hours left in this lamp.

Maybe I can open the projector (as it is not in warranty) and put a electrical tape around the broken part and cover the light source.

Interesting. Never heard of that before. Can you take a picture? If it came off the bulb housing, you shouldn't need to open the projector, just remove the lamp from the HD20 and inspect. The original bulb housings (that come with the OEM bulb assembled), are coated for light reflection. Nothing should be able to fall off and allow light out in any new place that it wasn't already escaping.

And I wouldn't use electrical tape anywhere inside the projector. Especially not near any heat source like a bulb or other heat. Can you take a photo of the "abnormal amount of light"? As there is light that does exit the front grill normally on a properly working HD20. Curious to see what abnormal would look like.
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post #4027 of 4045 Old 01-14-2015, 07:48 AM
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The part that is broken is lying at the projector floor. OSRAM logo can be seen on this.

Now some kind of small bright light source is exposed at the back of the lamp.

I have attached some pictures. Let me know if more pictures are needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xenon2000 View Post
Interesting. Never heard of that before. Can you take a picture? If it came off the bulb housing, you shouldn't need to open the projector, just remove the lamp from the HD20 and inspect. The original bulb housings (that come with the OEM bulb assembled), are coated for light reflection. Nothing should be able to fall off and allow light out in any new place that it wasn't already escaping.

And I wouldn't use electrical tape anywhere inside the projector. Especially not near any heat source like a bulb or other heat. Can you take a photo of the "abnormal amount of light"? As there is light that does exit the front grill normally on a properly working HD20. Curious to see what abnormal would look like.
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post #4028 of 4045 Old 01-14-2015, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wecaz View Post
The part that is broken is lying at the projector floor. OSRAM logo can be seen on this.

Now some kind of small bright light source is exposed at the back of the lamp.

I have attached some pictures. Let me know if more pictures are needed.
Sorry, I should have been more clear about the light leak. I was hoping to see a distant photo of the HD20 in the dark to see how much light shines on the surfaces around it. From the photos you did include (thanks) it looks like the normal amount of light from the front vent.

Bulb assembly should look like this. I see you didn't take a photo of yours, just a stock photo of just the bulb.
http://www.1projectorlamp.com/wp-con...oma-HD200x.jpg

Even if this rear cap fell off, that wouldn't cause extra light out of the front. How long have you had the HD20? You say it's 4 years old, but have you actually been using it for 4 years? And if so, just barely if it only has 750 hours. Maybe you don't remember the light leak from when you first started using it 4 years ago? Because there is a lot of light leak already from the HD20 that is completely normal. So that is why I am curious what an "abnormal" amount would look like for the HD20.
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post #4029 of 4045 Old 01-14-2015, 09:51 AM
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I use it 3-4 times a month, mostly for movies that lasts 90 or 120 minutes. It is in regular use. As you can see in the picures that I shared, rear cap of the lamp is broken and fell off. There is white powder kind of thing from where it broke.

Because rear cap has fallen, it has exposed something in the center at the rear of the lamp. It is a source of bright white light. I don't know if it is a hole.

The light reflects around the room and at the right side of the projected image on the wall. This light is bright enough and casts a shadow of the grill in the room.

I use the projector regularly, so I know it is abnormal. It is like a table lamp is switched on inside a dark room. It casts lots of glare on the projected image.

I hope I could give you some idea about it. (Next time I will share pictures of the room) I am scared if using projector in this condition causes more damage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xenon2000 View Post
Sorry, I should have been more clear about the light leak. I was hoping to see a distant photo of the HD20 in the dark to see how much light shines on the surfaces around it. From the photos you did include (thanks) it looks like the normal amount of light from the front vent.

Bulb assembly should look like this. I see you didn't take a photo of yours, just a stock photo of just the bulb.
http://www.1projectorlamp.com/wp-con...oma-HD200x.jpg

Even if this rear cap fell off, that wouldn't cause extra light out of the front. How long have you had the HD20? You say it's 4 years old, but have you actually been using it for 4 years? And if so, just barely if it only has 750 hours. Maybe you don't remember the light leak from when you first started using it 4 years ago? Because there is a lot of light leak already from the HD20 that is completely normal. So that is why I am curious what an "abnormal" amount would look like for the HD20.
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post #4030 of 4045 Old 01-14-2015, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by wecaz View Post
I use it 3-4 times a month, mostly for movies that lasts 90 or 120 minutes. It is in regular use. As you can see in the picures that I shared, rear cap of the lamp is broken and fell off. There is white powder kind of thing from where it broke.

Because rear cap has fallen, it has exposed something in the center at the rear of the lamp. It is a source of bright white light. I don't know if it is a hole.

The light reflects around the room and at the right side of the projected image on the wall. This light is bright enough and casts a shadow of the grill in the room.

I use the projector regularly, so I know it is abnormal. It is like a table lamp is switched on inside a dark room. It casts lots of glare on the projected image.

I hope I could give you some idea about it. (Next time I will share pictures of the room) I am scared if using projector in this condition causes more damage.
Wow, that doesn't sound good at all. I still wouldn't use electrical tape to attach the part. Maybe there is a high-temp glue that you can use instead. Otherwise if you can't repair it, you would of course need to replace the bulb assembly.
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post #4031 of 4045 Old 01-17-2015, 01:56 AM
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Hi there,

Today, I broke the seal and took the lamp assembly out. Please have a look at the attached images. There is a rear cap that has broken apart. White powder is lying everywhere.

If you notice rear of the lamp, there is a dark circle that is made of glass. There is a metal connector coming out at the center and this metal wire connects to one of the two pins. I can say the abnormal amount of light comes out through this glass circle.

Should I continue using this lamp as there is no evident issue other than bleeding light (that I can cover up)? This white power filling seems to be important, but that is lost now.

What is your advice on this situation?
xenon2000
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post #4032 of 4045 Old 01-18-2015, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by wecaz View Post
Hi there,

Today, I broke the seal and took the lamp assembly out. Please have a look at the attached images. There is a rear cap that has broken apart. White powder is lying everywhere.

If you notice rear of the lamp, there is a dark circle that is made of glass. There is a metal connector coming out at the center and this metal wire connects to one of the two pins. I can say the abnormal amount of light comes out through this glass circle.

Should I continue using this lamp as there is no evident issue other than bleeding light (that I can cover up)? This white power filling seems to be important, but that is lost now.

What is your advice on this situation?
xenon2000
Just to try to confirm where the light is coming from, have you tried shining a bright flashlight into the front of the housing to see exactly where the light bleed is coming from?

As I mentioned before, if it is from that assembly, you either need to buy a new bulb or get some high temp glue to try out. My guess about the white powder is that it was the glue used. Probably designed to not expand and contract so it didn't crack the bulb. I wish I knew what was originally used. But the flashlight method would be nice to confirm is that is really where the light leak is.
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post #4033 of 4045 Old 01-18-2015, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xenon2000 View Post
Just to try to confirm where the light is coming from, have you tried shining a bright flashlight into the front of the housing to see exactly where the light bleed is coming from?

As I mentioned before, if it is from that assembly, you either need to buy a new bulb or get some high temp glue to try out. My guess about the white powder is that it was the glue used. Probably designed to not expand and contract so it didn't crack the bulb. I wish I knew what was originally used. But the flashlight method would be nice to confirm is that is really where the light leak is.
When I switch on the projector, bleeding light is dim initially and gradually increases in intensity. I can clearly see that the bleeding light comes from the exposed circular glass. I have attached a picture. Metal connector exits from this glass' center. It was all covered by rear cap that is now broken. There was nothing inside the cap, except white powder.

I wonder if there is any harm using the lamp like this. All the connectors and lamp housing are intact.
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post #4034 of 4045 Old 01-18-2015, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by wecaz View Post
When I switch on the projector, bleeding light is dim initially and gradually increases in intensity. I can clearly see that the bleeding light comes from the exposed circular glass. I have attached a picture. Metal connector exits from this glass' center. It was all covered by rear cap that is now broken. There was nothing inside the cap, except white powder.

I wonder if there is any harm using the lamp like this. All the connectors and lamp housing are intact.
Well, that is a choice as well.

1. Do nothing. Hopefully there is no extra heat directed out the back. Bulb life may be affected.
2. Replace.
3. Try to repair.

The ceramic back may have been acting as a mild heat sink, similar to some resistors. Or it may have just been serving as an end cap to block light, cover exposed electrical paths, and give another surface for printing info. Or all of the above.

Not sure what else to discuss with this. Since you are confident the light is coming from there, then you have the 3 options above.
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post #4035 of 4045 Old 03-01-2015, 05:20 AM
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Same thing has happened with my bulb - the rear cap has broken off. I've cleaned it up and it fits back on ok but need to stick it back on. Has anyone got any further ideas on what to stick it with? Some sort of non conductive (electrically) thermal paste or cement maybe?


Thanks
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post #4036 of 4045 Old 03-02-2015, 09:20 AM
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I would be more concerned with finding a high temp, zero expansion glue and then use 2 spots of glue that do not touch. Most glues like this will also be nonconductive.

Perhaps some kind of ceramic glue?
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post #4037 of 4045 Old 03-09-2015, 02:57 AM
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I am using the projector in the same condition with the rear cap of the bulb broken. I hope it may not harm the projector (except the bulb itself).

But recently I faced a new issue. There was color flickering in the projected image and if I restart the projector, projector would not start immediately(bulb failure - red led). I had to wait 2 min to be able to start it again. But again I faced color flickering after restart. Now I am using projector in High-Altitude mode. Fan rpm is higher, but there is no color flickering anymore.

I don't know if color flickering problem is linked to bulb issue.

PS: I have seen 'red led' in the past after the power supply reset(power lost and returned), even if the bulb was working fine.
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post #4038 of 4045 Old 03-09-2015, 11:21 AM
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does this PJ have alot of image noise/mosquito noise please?
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post #4039 of 4045 Old 03-10-2015, 06:59 AM
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does this PJ have alot of image noise/mosquito noise please?
If set the right way, it should not be noticeable. Generally it is in the dark areas of the video. For Optoma brand projectors, the term Brilliant Color can cause the issue. Turn that off for sure. Make sure contrast and sharpness are not too high. Basically a good Cinema profile will help a lot. In general, I find that sharpness has the biggest affect on this video artifact. For any display. I like to start at the middle for sharpness and bump it up just a few digits.

Again, I have seen this on all DLP projectors, at least all the low cost ones. I don't think it has to do with the moving mirrors as it doesn't seem to affect non-video output such as a photo viewed with a computer displayed on the projector.
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post #4040 of 4045 Old 03-10-2015, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by wecaz View Post
I am using the projector in the same condition with the rear cap of the bulb broken. I hope it may not harm the projector (except the bulb itself).

But recently I faced a new issue. There was color flickering in the projected image and if I restart the projector, projector would not start immediately(bulb failure - red led). I had to wait 2 min to be able to start it again. But again I faced color flickering after restart. Now I am using projector in High-Altitude mode. Fan rpm is higher, but there is no color flickering anymore.

I don't know if color flickering problem is linked to bulb issue.

PS: I have seen 'red led' in the past after the power supply reset(power lost and returned), even if the bulb was working fine.
I too have seen bulb indicator lights on multiple Optoma projectors if the power is lost before a proper bulb shutdown. Likely because it checks the resistance during startup and that is affected by bulb temp.

Is this an Optoma OEM bulb from an authorized reseller? I have seen "OEM" bulbs that do not use the OEM housing, that have caused issues.

I am trying to remember that the fix was for the color issue. I think people have been replacing their color wheel and cleaning the system.
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post #4041 of 4045 Old 03-10-2015, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by xenon2000 View Post
I too have seen bulb indicator lights on multiple Optoma projectors if the power is lost before a proper bulb shutdown. Likely because it checks the resistance during startup and that is affected by bulb temp.

Is this an Optoma OEM bulb from an authorized reseller? I have seen "OEM" bulbs that do not use the OEM housing, that have caused issues.

I am trying to remember that the fix was for the color issue. I think people have been replacing their color wheel and cleaning the system.
I am using the first bulb that comes with the projector. It is an OSRAM one.
For color flickering, I have read in this forum that 'High Altitude mode' is a workaround. It is working for me as well.

I don't know if I had time before doing a bulb and/or color wheel replacement. I am using the projector 'as it is' as of now.
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post #4042 of 4045 Old 03-10-2015, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by wecaz View Post
I am using the first bulb that comes with the projector. It is an OSRAM one.
For color flickering, I have read in this forum that 'High Altitude mode' is a workaround. It is working for me as well.

I don't know if I had time before doing a bulb and/or color wheel replacement. I am using the projector 'as it is' as of now.
Sounds like a plan. Enjoy.
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post #4043 of 4045 Old 03-25-2015, 10:48 AM
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Hi everyone - I have tried to look through this thread for some info on my issue, but 400+ pages is tough. I have some flickering occuring on the projector and I'm trying to determine the root cause (I took a video and posted to youtube of the flickering).

My thought is one of the following:
1) Bulb is past its hour limit, but at the end of the video, I turn off the source and it is just a blue screen with no flickering. I wouldn't be surprised if it is the bulb, but wondering why it wouldn't flicker without the source
2) The HDMI is pinched somewhere along its route
3) The HDMI is tucked away with speaker wires through cable covers and this is causing interference
4) The HDMI cable is dying

My thought is it is #1, but figured before I spent $200+ for a new bulb I would do my due diligence and try to see if anyone had thoughts on the issue. Thanks in advance for any and all help!

http://youtu.be/UWWGBGmOlOM
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post #4044 of 4045 Old 03-26-2015, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by ccowman View Post
Hi everyone - I have tried to look through this thread for some info on my issue, but 400+ pages is tough. I have some flickering occuring on the projector and I'm trying to determine the root cause (I took a video and posted to youtube of the flickering).

My thought is one of the following:
1) Bulb is past its hour limit, but at the end of the video, I turn off the source and it is just a blue screen with no flickering. I wouldn't be surprised if it is the bulb, but wondering why it wouldn't flicker without the source
2) The HDMI is pinched somewhere along its route
3) The HDMI is tucked away with speaker wires through cable covers and this is causing interference
4) The HDMI cable is dying

My thought is it is #1, but figured before I spent $200+ for a new bulb I would do my due diligence and try to see if anyone had thoughts on the issue. Thanks in advance for any and all help!

http://youtu.be/UWWGBGmOlOM
That is a tough one. I don't see how it could be your bulb. Not only would it still happen with and without a source, it would be a brightness change across the whole image. Not just a white bar of flicker.

I highly doubt it is the HDMI cable. Being digital, I would expect block type artifacts or whole frame loss. Easy test though. Just try another HDMI cable. And at the same time, you can rule out other equipment by using a different source and going straight to the HD20 without anything inbetween.

Don't see how it could be the color wheel either as it doesn't affect the blue image without a source and it likely wouldn't be a white flicker.

At this point I would suspect the source or something between the source and projector. Doing the HDMI test I mentioned above should tell you if it's the HD20 or an external issue.
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Thanks for the feedback, xenon2000! I did a test last night of plugging a different source straight into the projector with a different Hdmi (and skipping receiver). This worked perfectly without any issues, so I'm going to be replacing the HDMI cable first to see if that fixes it. If not, my assumption would be that the receiver (or Xbox) is having issues. Thanks again!
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