*Unofficial* Mitsubishi HC3800 Thread - Page 214 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6391 of 6418 Old 12-21-2014, 08:11 AM
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I also have the original firmware. FWIW, mine seems to shut down only when the input signal changes resolution several times quickly in a row. I just set the BDP player (Sony BDP-S590) to output a fixed resolution and the problem hasn't happened since. If you use the projector to watch multiple sources and you send your video through an AVR which includes a video processor, you could set a fixed resolution there.

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post #6392 of 6418 Old 12-22-2014, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post
I do both the intake and exhaust.
I was lucky to have what appeared to be a spider web in the mirror/lens area. Lucky because when the smaller 2 amp shop vac was sucking the vents, the web would flutter. With the projector on, the web would only flutter when the hose was sucking on the top and center of the right (viewing from back) intake vent. The most efficient air flow (measured by the speed of the flutter) was achieved by sucking that area and with my other hand blocking as much the vent toward the back of the projector as possible. No other spot or hand placement created air flow enough to cause the web to flutter even a little bit. If I had three hands and covered the vent toward the front also, it may have been better, I will never know. It took 15 minutes of sucking the first day and 30 seconds the next day for the web to come loose.

Edit: I should mention the projector is ceiling mounted and left/right, top/bottom were be referred to in this position.

Last edited by rfred; 12-22-2014 at 06:13 AM. Reason: added information
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post #6393 of 6418 Old 12-22-2014, 08:58 AM
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As for the dust blob issues some have had....

I used to blow out the projector with compressed air until it caused me to have the dust blob issues. Anymore I just vacuum all the vents gently and do nothing of the such when I'm changing the lamp - I DO NOT CLEAN THE LAMP AREA. It seems the more I touch things the worse they get in regards to the dust issues.

As for the guy that purchased the manual and hopefully figured out how to get rid of his dust issues, please do tell us. There is nothing illegal about sharing your knowledge with others. Just don't read it word for word from a publication and you'll be fine. Please do share in what you have learned. Thanks!
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post #6394 of 6418 Old 12-30-2014, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bjquinn View Post
Update: I downloaded the service manual from <link deleted for posting>. Cost me $10, but the place seems legit enough. Took the suggestion of another forumer and used PayPal but changed password temporarily immediately before and after purchase.

Anyway, I have no knowledge of the legality of sharing this type of thing -- not sure that this place that charged me $10 actually has any distribution rights, so perhaps they had no right to sell it to me and I shouldn't have a copy of it in the first place. Or perhaps they're just hoping a few idiots will pay them $10 for something that ought to be freely available. Anyway, if it's *legal* for me to do so, I would be willing to share the service manual with anyone who needs it. I'll have to defer to wiser posters on whether it is in fact legal or not.
You must have bought the last digital copy they had. The link is dead now.

My projector took a surge when our cable line got hit by lightning. Now we are getting the Power red/green blink and status green blink. The user manual says "Call your dealer." Since Mitsubishi is out of the projector business, I don't know who to call.

When we power it on, the lamp illuminates, but within 30 seconds it shuts down and the lights begin blinking.
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post #6395 of 6418 Old 01-06-2015, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Solarium View Post
So I was part of the first batch buyers from 2009 who received the models that shutdown randomly. I know it's fixed by a firmware update which requires you to send the projector back to Mitsubishi. I never got around doing that, since I haven't used my projector much (I'm still on the first lamp). Is it too late to send them back now, since it's way past the warranty? Can I also do this myself?
It's not necessarily 'just' a firmware update (depends on the serial #'s I think). FWIR, there was some hardware change to a circuit board too.

You can NOT do it yourself.

Can still probably be updated, but you'll have to pay, though they can probably give you a fixed price quote (since this was a known problem) vs the hourly rate that could get out of control....
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post #6396 of 6418 Old 01-12-2015, 02:12 PM
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As for the dust blob issues some have had....

I used to blow out the projector with compressed air until it caused me to have the dust blob issues. Anymore I just vacuum all the vents gently and do nothing of the such when I'm changing the lamp - I DO NOT CLEAN THE LAMP AREA. It seems the more I touch things the worse they get in regards to the dust issues.

As for the guy that purchased the manual and hopefully figured out how to get rid of his dust issues, please do tell us. There is nothing illegal about sharing your knowledge with others. Just don't read it word for word from a publication and you'll be fine. Please do share in what you have learned. Thanks!
*sigh*. I *may* have fixed the dust issues, but now I can't even find out. I finally got around to taking the thing apart. First of all, this is not a simple process. I'm a computer guy, but this isn't like fixing a computer. It's harder than fixing a desktop in the same way that fixing a laptop or a cell phone is harder than a desktop, but it's a degree worse than that. Upside is that I had the service manual. I wouldn't recommend you try this without the service manual unless you *really* feel confident in your skills on this type of thing. Unfortunately, the service manual stops telling you how to take the thing apart when you get to the optical mechanisms, so you have to start guessing at that point.

Anyway, I got the optical mechanism out, including the color wheel and motor. Once I took parts off the projector, I went crazy with the compressed air. What difference does it make with this point, especially if I've gotten these parts away from the optics. I cleaned off the color wheel with a microfiber cloth. I know that might have been a bad idea, but it was really dirty and compressed air was not taking care of it. When the projector is completely assembled, the color wheel is right behind where the lamp focuses the light. There's a dime-sized hole in the area that contains the lamp housing where the light goes through, and the color wheel sits a couple millimeters behind this hole. This is where the dust gets through.

Past the color wheel, there's a small squared tube with mirrors on all four sides on the inside. Completely covered with dust. I *think* this is where the dust was that was causing my problem. Not sure if I got it all out, but I got pretty aggressive about it. First of all, you'll want to detach this tube before working on it, since trying to spew compressed air through it won't help and it might just get dust further down the optical path. The tube actually comes off (be careful, it's clipped down, I kinda had to work it for a little bit). Anyway, I got it out and shot compressed air through it, which didn't completely clean it. It likes to get dust stuck down in the corners where the 4 mirrors come together. I cut a small piece of microfiber cloth and ran it through the tube multiple times. This seemed to get nearly all of it, but a few stubborn dust particles nudged in those corners. After trying to dislodge those to no avail, I finally gave up and decided to put it all back together and see if it was at least better.

I also removed the black cap that covers the first two lenses. I would recommend caution here. I *think* that the 2nd, larger lens is completely sealed, or if not then it's really close to completely sealed. This means that whatever damage you've done with dust, it probably stopped at the 2nd, larger, deeper lens. This is good for multiple reasons. One of which is that so far I can't figure out how to disassemble the main optical mechanism, and I'd like to not have to do that if I can get away with it. Perhaps all the damage was further up the line than that. But here's the warning -- first of all, once you remove the black cap, your seal is gone, and now dust can potentially get further into the optical mechanism. There's a hole past the 2nd lens into the main body which is sealed because of the lens and the black cap. Dust gets in there, and you've got to take that apart too. There are no instructions in the service manual, and I can't help you either. Anyway, I went ahead and removed the black cap and the two lenses before I knew what it looked like, and cleaned those with a microfiber cloth as well, and tried to carefully eliminate any dust sitting in this part of the light path. Unfortunately, I sat the black cap back down on the small posts it sits on incorrectly and it put pressure on the larger lens and actually ground part of the bottom of it down. Not sure this will have any optical effect since the hole into the main body is much smaller than the lens, but it did add a little *glass dust* to the area (geez!), which I cleaned out and then put the optical assembly back together, and then put everything else back together.

Of course, when I put the final screw back in to attach the outer plastic projector case back to the base of the projector, I pinched the small flat orange ribbon that goes to the color wheel assembly. I pinched it pretty bad, but when flattened back out there weren't any cuts or anything, though it's possible I broke a connection internally in that ribbon somewhere. Anyway, after resolving that, I fired up the projector.

Projector turns on, I can see that the lamp turns on for several seconds (but nothing out the front lens) and the side fans start running, then *something* whirs up for 2-3 seconds (could be imagining things, but this whir sounded louder and harsher than I remember), then whirs down. Then I get a red light with a green light flashing twice (repeating). Manual says that this means I have a damaged lamp, but that's unlikely, as the same lamp worked before I took everything apart. Seems more likely that I broke something. Anyway, I took it all apart back down to the optical assembly to see if the orange ribbon had gotten pulled into the way of the color wheel motor spinning (was that the source of the whirring sound? perhaps the small fan attached close to there?), which I thought might have been a problem, but I taped it down out of the way and put everything back together and had the same problem. Not exactly sure *what* is making the whirring sound, but it's not one of the larger intake/exhaust fans on the sides of the projector. There really aren't very many moving parts in there, and a "whirring" sound basically has to be coming from a moving part. There's the side fans (that's not it), the color wheel motor (doesn't appear to be it, and it sounded way too loud for that anyway), or the small fan that's attached to the optical assembly when you remove it from the projector. I think that's all. Perhaps that last one is it. I'll try again tonight, maybe I got something lodged in that fan (might explain the additional noise) and it's detecting the issue and shutting down before the system overheats or something. Not too hopeful, though. I think I blew it up. Hopefully at least someone else can learn from my errors.

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post #6397 of 6418 Old 01-13-2015, 04:30 AM
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Wow Bjquinn, what a story! I feel for ya.

My first projector was this big white Optoma 720P from like 2007. Just before it died it too made this whirling / grinding sound upon fire up - if it fired up. The safety features kept trying to shut it down and I kept turning it back on. And if / when it came on, it lasted a few minutes working, but then would start a grinding / whirling sound and then shut down, until.... It shut down for good. The last time it made a grinding / whirling sound and then a "pop" and then that's all she wrote. It was dead.

Upon inspection, the color wheel had actually cracked and a chunk broke off with tiny glass particles now inside it. Bulb was fine. And get this, I had just purchased the $350 bulb within the last 30 days! Anyhow, describing the issue over the phone, Optoma told me it was the light engine and that the cost to fix starts at about $1100 - I deemed it totaled at that cost to fix and ordered a true throwaway to replace it (my 3800 Mits). As such, I decided to take apart my $4500+ Optoma paperweight just to see and maybe learn something. WOW! Not for the timid.

I have no doubt what you're feeling having looked into that abyss and I smile with compassion when I say this, I doubt she'll work again. I hope she does, but would be more surprised if it did than if it didn't. I don't know though. I don't have the computer tech experience either, so maybe... Good luck with it and (here's the real reason I wanted to reply) if you can't get it going, at about $1200 new, the 3800 Mits really was / is a throwaway projector and not a repair projector. After my $4500+ Optoma died on me just after the warranty ran out, I vowed to never again spend so much on an electronic. To buy throwaways from here on out. And a throwaway in my book is simply an electronic at a purchase price point that dictates it's cheaper to replace it than to repair it when the warranty runs out. You know, the American way. lol

It was pretty educational though taking the old Optama apart. The wife asked me why I was sitting there on the floor taking apart my $4500+ projector that was not worth fixing as new better projectors cost what it cost to fix this one. My reply was simply "Because I can't bring myself to thow this $4500+ device in the trash until I am sure she'll never work again".


I keep some of the lenses around until this day and use them as magnifying glasses.

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post #6398 of 6418 Old 01-13-2015, 07:45 AM
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Hmm, interesting autopsy. I had a similar thing happen to my old Optoma, which I sold to a friend. He got 4 years out of it though and it was originally in the throw away price range. I have been on a 3 year replacement plan, I went from 800x600 to 720p and lastly to the 3800. I expected led DLP to be here long ago, but for no apparent reason 1080p versions aren't reasonably priced. I guess I'll just wait for inexpensive 4k and enjoy the Mitsubishi until it dies!
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post #6399 of 6418 Old 01-13-2015, 04:22 PM
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Hmm, interesting autopsy. I had a similar thing happen to my old Optoma, which I sold to a friend. He got 4 years out of it though and it was originally in the throw away price range. I have been on a 3 year replacement plan, I went from 800x600 to 720p and lastly to the 3800. I expected led DLP to be here long ago, but for no apparent reason 1080p versions aren't reasonably priced. I guess I'll just wait for inexpensive 4k and enjoy the Mitsubishi until it dies!
+1

What's up with the LED DLP delay, right? I was hoping for the same thing hoping they'd have enough "lumens" by now to push a 144 inch HT image. Nothing yet....
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post #6400 of 6418 Old 09-17-2015, 06:59 PM
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Hello all - was hoping to get some opinions on a problem with my HC3800. When I turned my unit on today the image was reversed and language was switched to German (the hour counter was also reset along with all settings). The color red was also severely reduced/missing while other colors remain vivid. I have tried switching cables however the image is distorted during the Mitsubishi log in screen - should not be cable related.

Could anyone suggest if my problem is bulb or actual unit related? I would hate to waste money on a new bulb (my current one is however quite old) only to find out my actual projector is failing. Any info would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks
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post #6401 of 6418 Old 09-18-2015, 05:34 AM
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Hello all - was hoping to get some opinions on a problem with my HC3800. When I turned my unit on today the image was reversed and language was switched to German (the hour counter was also reset along with all settings). The color red was also severely reduced/missing while other colors remain vivid. I have tried switching cables however the image is distorted during the Mitsubishi log in screen - should not be cable related.

Could anyone suggest if my problem is bulb or actual unit related? I would hate to waste money on a new bulb (my current one is however quite old) only to find out my actual projector is failing. Any info would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks
With my very limited electrical knowledge, I cannot imagine this being a bulb issue. Sure sounds like a power issue. Something reset your unit like a spike in power for it to change orientation of the image, reset the counter and the language.... I believe. I would not suspect a lamp or cable.
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post #6402 of 6418 Old 01-05-2016, 12:21 PM
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Hi, I been reading some of the post, but maybe i missed it.

I have a hc3800, that we been using for year and a half, pretty heavily lately, my wife had it since 2010, unopen till a year in a half ago. Recently, it started having a constant color flicker, where it gives it a faint green color flicker, and we here high pitch noise when it happens, The bulb since completely fine. Its way more frequent in low mode than standard, but it happens every 1-2 seconds. We have a pretty sticky dusty place that giving us some issues with electronics before. Thinking maybe its just dust inside it, or dust in the color wheel. Any advice?
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post #6403 of 6418 Old 01-05-2016, 02:46 PM
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Hi, I been reading some of the post, but maybe i missed it.

I have a hc3800, that we been using for year and a half, pretty heavily lately, my wife had it since 2010, unopen till a year in a half ago. Recently, it started having a constant color flicker, where it gives it a faint green color flicker, and we here high pitch noise when it happens, The bulb since completely fine. Its way more frequent in low mode than standard, but it happens every 1-2 seconds. We have a pretty sticky dusty place that giving us some issues with electronics before. Thinking maybe its just dust inside it, or dust in the color wheel. Any advice?
The symptoms you describe are consistent with accumulated dust causing the color wheel to "stagger" every once in a while, apparently most often when the green segment is in front of the light beam.

Your projector needs a thorough cleaning, which probably should be done by someone familiar with its design. I've seen reports of people managing to get dust blobs into places where it was impossible to get out.

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post #6404 of 6418 Old 01-30-2016, 08:26 PM
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POP! I assume the bulb is gone... I think I was ~2,500 hour. We were about 2 hours into a movie when it went. I will look at it tomorrow and see how it looks. I have never had a bulb go before, so I'm not sure if things are damaged or not.

I'm not sure what to do, buy a bulb or get something new.... I'd like to get an LED projector like the LG PF1500 but I'm not sure if it is flexible enough for my setup. I am at the minimum throw for the Mitsubishi for my 106" screen... There is no room for it to get any closer in my small room.

Woe is me! And my wife too!
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post #6405 of 6418 Old 01-30-2016, 08:46 PM
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Pulled the bulb enclosure out, it's a mess. There are some shards in the unit.
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post #6406 of 6418 Old 01-31-2016, 09:40 AM
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I'm completely confused about which bulbs are real and which are not... I have an osram in the housing. They seem to range from about $80 and up for ones that mention osram on Amazon. There are pages and pages of lamps. How many different projectors use this housing? There certainly seems to be an oversupply.
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post #6407 of 6418 Old 01-31-2016, 10:22 AM
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Sorry to hear about the lamp. Projector lamp experts is excellent and I've bought two of their platinum lamps which have the real Osram lamp inside. The first one lasted well over 3500 hours before I decided to replace it with another. They sell the 100% for about $325 and the Platinum lamp for about $120. Each time I bought the platinum lamp and they have performed just like OEM. Scroll down just a bit for the platinum lamp. http://www.projectorlampexperts.com/...ProductID=5218

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post #6408 of 6418 Old 01-31-2016, 02:51 PM
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Sorry to hear about the lamp. Projector lamp experts is excellent and I've bought two of their platinum lamps which have the real Osram lamp inside. The first one lasted well over 3500 hours before I decided to replace it with another. They sell the 100% for about $325 and the Platinum lamp for about $120. Each time I bought the platinum lamp and they have performed just like OEM. Scroll down just a bit for the platinum lamp. http://www.projectorlampexperts.com/...ProductID=5218
Thanks very much, they have an extremely confusing website and the link does not work, it says your session timed out. I see what you mean though. So one is actual oem and the other is a generic enclosure with the osram bulb?

I disassembled the broken lamp and took out the bulb. I can get an osram from Amazon for $50 or so. Has anyone tried that and putting it in the lamp enclosure? I am not sure how much damage if any the pop of the bulb did to the enclosure. I understand the need for the screen for sure now. I didn't help matters by turning the projector over trying to figure out where the lamp was. Some small fragments got out into the lamp area.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A3R56PPN2PP7NN

This is projector #3 and the first bulb to go. We generally only use it in the evening and not at all in the summer since we have poor light control. About 6 years, not too bad.

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post #6409 of 6418 Old 01-31-2016, 05:50 PM
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Thanks very much, they have an extremely confusing website and the link does not work, it says your session timed out. I see what you mean though. So one is actual oem and the other is a generic enclosure with the osram bulb?

I disassembled the broken lamp and took out the bulb. I can get an osram from Amazon for $50 or so. Has anyone tried that and putting it in the lamp enclosure? I am not sure how much damage if any the pop of the bulb did to the enclosure. I understand the need for the screen for sure now. I didn't help matters by turning the projector over trying to figure out where the lamp was. Some small fragments got out into the lamp area.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A3R56PPN2PP7NN

This is projector #3 and the first bulb to go. We generally only use it in the evening and not at all in the summer since we have poor light control. About 6 years, not too bad.
That's odd I just clicked the link I gave you in your quote and it worked. You can always just go to their site and in the search put in HC3800 www.projectorlampexperts.com

If it was me I would buy it from any of those cheap dealers on amazon. You should be fine when the lamp explodes and it should damage the projector.

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post #6410 of 6418 Old 02-01-2016, 05:18 AM
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That's odd I just clicked the link I gave you in your quote and it worked. You can always just go to their site and in the search put in HC3800 www.projectorlampexperts.com

If it was me I would buy it from any of those cheap dealers on amazon. You should be fine when the lamp explodes and it should damage the projector.
Yeah, I did that, the link is probably using a cookie and you have it and I don't. I'm not understanding your second line. Did you mean to put a smiley in there?

My question is how do you tell a legit dealer from a cheapo. I don't mind paying more, I just don't want to buy junk.

The bulb is the right bulb if it is branded, correct? I have already had one explode in my projector and that's the one that came with it. If it's an osram, I should be able to put it in the enclosure and be fine.
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post #6411 of 6418 Old 02-01-2016, 09:10 AM
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I wasn't trying to be a wise a$$ I just though you couldn't use the link and couldn't find the HC3800 lamps on their site because you said their site was confusing.

If it has the Osram lamp and it's the correct one you'll be fine. Many people have said they used different unknown places to get the the Osram lamp in a non OEM assembly and the assembly didn't allow for enough airflow and it caused early lamp failure(that's why I suggested projector lamp experts, because their platinum assembly with OEM Osram lamp has worked out great for myself and others).

Others have bought just the Osram lamp from unknown places on the net to install in their current assembly only to find that the lamp was a Chinese knock off of an Osram lamp when they got it even though the site siad original Osram lamp. I'm just suggesting go with a known place that other here have had sucess with instead of an unknown source for the lamp.

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post #6412 of 6418 Old 02-01-2016, 09:37 AM
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My experience with non-Official OEM lamps has been terrible. Every single "cheap" bulb I have tried has failed very early or not worked at all. And that has been about 3 or 4 tries. I have vowed to ONLY buy from an authorized dealer (as listed on Mitsubishi's site) and that means I pay $300ish.

As is right now I am running one of the 2009 original OEM lamps because, you guessed it, NONE of the aftermarket ones work anymore. One time I got 700 hours out of an aftermarket one. That was a success. lol

Problem now is if you try a crap aftermarket one and your projector doesn't work you won't know if it was the crap lamp or not. If you pay $300 for an OEM and your projector doesn't work, same thing. With either lamp you will probably get 30 or 90 days to return it. So it's a gamble. I'd probably just buy a new projector. I have 3 old OEM lamps that, while not the brightest, can still work. If I didn't, I'd just replace the projector. It is a 6 year old throwaway projector afterall (not a high priced one).
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post #6413 of 6418 Old 02-01-2016, 09:55 AM
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Yeah I know what you men about throw away after six years. In December I upgraded from the hC3800 to the Sony VPL-HW40ES. I thought the HC3800 had a sharp picture, with really good contrast, but compared to the 40ES it's blurry and lifesess. The 40ES is razor sharp and the contrast is incredible. I had the HC3800 6 years and the improvement in PQ over the HC3800 is stunning. To bad you really can't get anything for a HC3800. No one is willing to pay more than about $200 for them anymore.

"What do you mean it's too loud? My ears aren't even bleeding yet!"

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post #6414 of 6418 Old 02-01-2016, 10:23 AM
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Thanks guys, that's what I feared. The lamp I had that came with the projector was an osram made in china, no shock there. There are so few reviews of any of these, it's hard to determine what to get.

The other thing is getting it back in the housing. It was hard getting the darn thing out. Some have mentioned that there was heat stress on the housing, but I don't know how to tell.

I never intended on keeping this projector so long. I thought inexpensive LED projectors would be ruling the world years ago. I have had my eye on the LG pf1500, but it is very inflexible in placement. The 3800 is at the minimum distance to fill my screen. As is the couch is right against the wall, I would love to get it a bit more forward.

Sitting very close to my 60" plasma just isn't the same as the 106" screen. I think it filled more of my vision than the projector...
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post #6415 of 6418 Old 02-01-2016, 01:15 PM
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Same here I never thought I'd have the 3800 6 years. Before the 3800 I had a Sanyo Z2 and a Mitsubishi HC1500. I only kept each of those two years because projectors kept getting better every couple of years. After the 3800 it just seemed that projectors in the $2000(msrp) range didn't really improve enough to warrant upgrading, and all the ones in the $1000 weren't really upgrades at all either, so I just stayed with the 3800. I started looking at projectors again late last year and spent $1900 on the Sony VPL-HW40ES and man talk about a night and day difference. I love my old 3800, but after upgrading I can't beleive what I had been missing.

"What do you mean it's too loud? My ears aren't even bleeding yet!"

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post #6416 of 6418 Old Yesterday, 05:02 AM
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Same here I never thought I'd have the 3800 6 years. Before the 3800 I had a Sanyo Z2 and a Mitsubishi HC1500. I only kept each of those two years because projectors kept getting better every couple of years. After the 3800 it just seemed that projectors in the $2000(msrp) range didn't really improve enough to warrant upgrading, and all the ones in the $1000 weren't really upgrades at all either, so I just stayed with the 3800. I started looking at projectors again late last year and spent $1900 on the Sony VPL-HW40ES and man talk about a night and day difference. I love my old 3800, but after upgrading I can't beleive what I had been missing.
Where's the "LIKE" button? lol I completely agree on all that. I built a 12 foot screen in hopes of going LED in a few years after the HC3800. But man did the LED advancements stall. Big TVs have taken the spotlight and projectors stopped advancing so fast. I too am ready for a brighter image. Purchased a 70 inch Sony TV for the bedroom a couple years ago and now don't like the "dim" image of the HC3800. Too bad I have so many working lamps ;-)

gregoryperkins, your projector lamp having exploded may actually be a blessing in disguise. You've a solid reason to upgrade.
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post #6417 of 6418 Old Yesterday, 08:03 AM
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gregoryperkins, your projector lamp having exploded may actually be a blessing in disguise. You've a solid reason to upgrade.
Yeah, but it's a year early! I either need a better LED projector than the LG or a DHR/Expanded color 4k set that's 75" or bigger.... Close, but not there yet.

I can't remember what a 60" plasma cost when I got the 3800, but no one back then would think that a 60" was small. Now 55" is where the 42" was then...
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post #6418 of 6418 Old Today, 08:55 AM
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...

I can't remember what a 60" plasma cost when I got the 3800, but no one back then would think that a 60" was small. Now 55" is where the 42" was then...
Yes sir. I recall at 2006 CES the largest TV you could buy was an 80 inch Samsung for $80,000. I had a 50 inch micro-display at the time and replaced it with a 50 inch plasma for about $1,100. lol My first projector was around then too at $4,700 and I built an 8 foot 4:3 screen. And in the 80s our first VHS was over $1000 with tapes costing around $100 each. And here today you can't even give me a DVD (Bluray or nothing).

Electronics have such a short expensive life. I try so hard anymore to NOT spend alot because I know it will be outdated before I learn how to use it. Ahh, problems of the non-poor. ;-)
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