Panasonic PT-AE4000 MSRP $1999 - Page 31 - AVS Forum
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post #901 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonJB View Post

Left and right would make sense for 4:3 content...

Perhaps it is only for 4:3 but Panasonic's inclusion of this feature must mean it to be used for 16:9 content on a scope screen. The feature is listed along with all the lens memory features in the manual.
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post #902 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maestro J View Post

Perhaps it is only for 4:3 but Panasonic's inclusion of this feature must mean it to be used for 16:9 content on a scope screen. The feature is listed along with all the lens memory features in the manual.

It would not be used on a scope screen. If the side masking is really available to the 16:9 non-zoomed 2.35 scope mode (native mode), then it would be used to slightly mask source noise such as possible broadcast borders, etc. Though this is usually at the top horizontally.

If you have a scope screen, the idea is that the AE4000 zooms the 16x9 native LCD panels so that the "black" bars are then projected out of bounds of your scope screen. Then when you watch 16x9 content, it zooms back out so the height is the same, but now the sides are at the native 16x9 size and so it's just a native 16x9 image inside the scope screen area. Nothing should need to be masked at this point on the sides since the projector is not a native scope ratio. (wish it was.) I know I am just repeating what has already been said, but seems to keep coming up.
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post #903 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 04:10 PM
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Had anyone measure the ansi contrast AE4000?
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post #904 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 04:10 PM
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You are right. My bad. Still love to see that this feature is now available on their 1080p projector.
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post #905 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjyap View Post

Had anyone measure the ansi contrast AE4000?

Well the ae3000 was 446:1. For some reason central didnt measure the ae4000 durring the review. Assume its alittle higher

AV FORUMS measurements were 5000:1 without the iris for the ae4000 and 4200:1 for the ae3000

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post #906 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 05:11 PM
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Does anyone know how frame interpolation works with 1080i film material coming from satellite? In other words, when it combines interlaced fields into frames, how does it handle the repeated frames when it does the frame interpolation? Could this be the source of strange judder issues with interlaced film material?

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post #907 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hitchfan View Post

Also, for anyone who has set up this feature to Auto-Detect and adjust for Constant Image Height on a 2.35:1 screen...how does that constant "reminder" - "reminder" - "reminder", etc. that the projector is indeed processing the aspect ratio adjustment as advertised effect your overall viewing experience under ordinary real-world conditions such as cable/satellite channel surfing from 1.33:1 to 1.78:1/2.35:1 sources?

I dont think you would want to use auto detect in that situation.
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post #908 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonJB View Post

I don't know, but logically I don't see how it could put them on the side of 16:9 content (for a 2.35:1 screen) as the native ratio of the panel is 16:9, so there is nothing for the projector to mask...

The side blanking do work on 16x9 and 4x3 any ratio you want, Im using them!
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post #909 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xenon2000 View Post

I am still not positive about the comments made about the masking system used on the AE4000. I don't have one, but it sounds like it's electronic and so it's just making the pixels black and should have the same "light spill/leak" as the "black" bars. Which is, not 100% light blocking.

Can any new owners of the AE4000 confirm that it is just making the pixels black and is not physical "plates" within the light path internally?

Seems like an easy test. Display an all black image using a computer paused test video, etc. And using your hand, you should see a shadow cast in the middle of the screen and not in the masked area. Which means you should also notice the true black masking versus the displayed black center area.

It is not a plate, but its real dark and still will never be noticed if you have your greyscale set correctly. I used to see the overspill on my 3000 for scope films but never now on the 4000. The blanking system just cuts the image where you want to cut and remove it, very handy for 16x9 logos.
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post #910 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darinp2 View Post

Have you tried dark scenes/movies? I got an AE4000 yesterday and tried it in my mostly black velvet theater with both a Da-Lite High Power and Carada Classic Cinema White (16:9 screens in both cases). On dark stuff in Alien vs Predator: Requiem the bars were very evident. Not as bad as a 5 year old LCD of course, but still lots of room for masking to help IMO.

If somebody was using a 2.35:1 screen and the room was dark enough I could see how masking the sides would have little advantage, but with a 16:9 screen in a dark surfaced theater I think those who got to see masked vs unmasked with dark material would definitely appreciate the masked (other than people who just don't notice differences much at all).

--Darin

Quote:
Originally Posted by RapalloAV View Post

It is not a plate, but its real dark and still will never be noticed if you have your greyscale set correctly. I used to see the overspill on my 3000 for scope films but never now on the 4000. The blanking system just cuts the image where you want to cut and remove it, very handy for 16x9 logos.

If that's the case, there is no need to have CIH screen, you might as well have a 16:9 screen and CIW so you don't have to have the smaller 16:9 image.

Mike
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post #911 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xenon2000 View Post

Audio -> receiver -> Speakers
Video -> Receiver -> Projector -OR- Video device -> Projector

Either way, the audio never goes to the projector, so audio has to be delayed at your receiver/amp to match the video lag at the final display output. Or at the playback device directly. Some players have audio sync features. But usually this is done with your receiver.

That is what I was "afraid of"; I was hoping that the new Blue Rays would have the ability to sync. My processor-pre-amp is an older Bryston SP 1.7...I can delay each output individually but it is a bit of PITA. With the cost of the new Bryston, I will just suck it up. :>)

On a different question, it there a chart of dimensions for ceiling mounting the AE4000? I will initially be re-using my 80" wide Silverstar screen.

Thanks for the help...I am a bit out of date. :>)

Steve
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post #912 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 05:46 PM
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Heres a unique question. 2 years ago all panels, regardless of lcd or dlp, ran at a fixed frequency. 60hz panels or a few 120hz panels, but they couldnt change frequency. At best there were a few dlps that could slow down the color wheel for 48hz output.

From what im reading, the panasonic can output 96,100, and 120hz. Do the panels change frequency in this projector? I can see it being a fixed 120hz panel for 24,30,60fps material. How does it run at 96 or 100hz for 24p and 25p material?

Answered my own question. this lcd panel doesnt have refresh rates. In this case the panel can be updated up to 120 times a second. So with 24p stuff it just updates 96 times a second. In the older projectors the processor had to feed a 60hz signal to the panels.

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post #913 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 501transpo View Post

That is what I was "afraid of"; I was hoping that the new Blue Rays would have the ability to sync. My processor-pre-amp is an older Bryston SP 1.7...I can delay each output individually but it is a bit of PITA. With the cost of the new Bryston, I will just suck it up. :>)Here's a link to the 4000 throw calculator Steve..
http://www.projectorpeople.com/promo...nic+PT-AE4000U

On a different question, it there a chart of dimensions for ceiling mounting the AE4000? I will initially be re-using my 80" wide Silverstar screen.

Thanks for the help...I am a bit out of date. :>)

Steve

Here is the link throw calculator for the 4000 Steve.
http://www.projectorpeople.com/promo...nic+PT-AE4000U

Mike
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post #914 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xenon2000 View Post

It would not be used on a scope screen. If the side masking is really available to the 16:9 non-zoomed 2.35 scope mode (native mode), then it would be used to slightly mask source noise such as possible broadcast borders, etc. Though this is usually at the top horizontally.

If you have a scope screen, the idea is that the AE4000 zooms the 16x9 native LCD panels so that the "black" bars are then projected out of bounds of your scope screen. Then when you watch 16x9 content, it zooms back out so the height is the same, but now the sides are at the native 16x9 size and so it's just a native 16x9 image inside the scope screen area. Nothing should need to be masked at this point on the sides since the projector is not a native scope ratio. (wish it was.) I know I am just repeating what has already been said, but seems to keep coming up.

Yes you are correct, but not everyone has to do it exactly the same way as you might think for a number of different reasons.
I run two motorized screens:
1. 16x9 - 120" that I run all my 16x9 films on.
2. 2:35 - 150" that I run all my scope films on.

I only use the 2.35 screen for mixed content, never a feature film in 16x9 as my 120" is much larger.
e.g. Scope feature with mixed 16x9 start up content like trailers, logos, menus, this I have saved to the 16x9 position. Here I have used the L&R blanking (cropped image) to make the 16x9 ratio content just a bit smaller than normal, when the feature starts up in scope you get a huge wow factor, almost like zooming from 4.3 up to scope. Cropping here this way doesnt matter, the content isnt important, logos etc etc....

There are heaps of other ideas one can do with any of the 4 blanking masks, which can be saved for any ratio, up to six times.
1. Lock them onto the 4 borders of your 2.35 screen, start up a movie thats scope and all the 16x9 logos, censorship titles, menu will be displayed with top and bottoms cut to perfectly fit all four sides of the scope screen. (no usual overspill)

2. Zoom a film like Baraka so both sides fit the 2.35 screen, now you have small overspill on the top and bottom of the screen. Now cut (trim) the top and bottom of that spilled image and Baraka fits perfectly masked for better presentation. No different to how its done in the cinema, I know after being a cinema projectionist for 30+ years

Lots more ways you can clean up the presentaition of a film if you want to be creative using the blanking......
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post #915 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thaxx View Post

If that's the case, there is no need to have CIH screen, you might as well have a 16:9 screen and CIW so you don't have to have the smaller 16:9 image.

Not really, use two screens like me then you get the best of both worlds, large 16x9 and large scope
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post #916 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 06:24 PM
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I'm think about upgrading to the AE4000 going from a Sanyo PLV Z4 that I have had since 2006. How much of an upgrade would it be? Would my mind be blown or would it just be a slight upgrade? I use my Z4 for everything...TV, Xbox 360, PS3, etc......
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post #917 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by wizman2378 View Post

I'm think about upgrading to the AE4000 going from a Sanyo PLV Z4 that I have had since 2006. How much of an upgrade would it be? Would my mind be blown or would it just be a slight upgrade? I use my Z4 for everything...TV, Xbox 360, PS3, etc......

Blown away further than the moon
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post #918 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 06:38 PM
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Nothing should need to be masked at this point on the sides since the projector is not a native scope ratio. (wish it was.) I know I am just repeating what has already been said, but seems to keep coming up.

Ah, this makes sense. So it will be super dark as long as there is no light in the theater, correct? I'm not gonna worry about masking if it's completely unobtrusive.
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post #919 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 06:42 PM
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Darin,

I'd be especially interested in any gamma tweaks you uncover to improve shadow detail with the 4000, and your further thoughts on the value and downside of the dynamic iris, as well as the detail enhancer settings.

I have no clue if my 4000 order was even processed, so it may take a while for me to get one.

Joe Clark

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post #920 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RapalloAV View Post

Blown away further than the moon

Care to elaborate? The Z4 still looks really good in my eyes and friends are still blown away when they come over to watch stuff on it.
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post #921 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by wizman2378 View Post

Care to elaborate? The Z4 still looks really good in my eyes and friends are still blown away when they come over to watch stuff on it.

If the Z4 still looks really good to you, why upgrade? I would keep it until it died (or the bulb burns out). Wait as long as you can for better models to come out and prices to drop. Upgrade only when you're disatisfied with something.
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post #922 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruce3404 View Post


Be sure to run the cable you purchased to the projector before you put it into the ceiling area. While it's costly, you might consider running an extra cable (or two) into the ceiling for future use. You should be able to get three HDMI cables into 2" conduit. My switcher box is functioning poorly with the new projector, so I decided to home run cables from my DISH and Blu-Ray player and threw in an extra cable just so I won't have to add it later (or if one fails along the way). Nice to have those three HDMI ports vs the single port in the AE-900.

The point of the conduit is so I can run additional lines or change out lines over time if need be. A little fish tape and we're good to go. I will hook up the PJ with the cable stretched out on the floor first to be sure it can handle it.

the 40ft cable is not "certified" because that length is out of the HDMI certification range (from my understanding). But if it doesn't work monoprice will get it back.
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post #923 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wizman2378 View Post

Care to elaborate? The Z4 still looks really good in my eyes and friends are still blown away when they come over to watch stuff on it.

Read the reviews and what others here have to say about the 4000, all our findings have been mentioned already. If you and your friends are blown away with what you have already, why change
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post #924 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 08:19 PM
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Here is the link throw calculator for the 4000 Steve.
*******
Thanks Mike and others for the help. I also downloaded the owners manual for the AE3000, (couldn't find the 4k). Several more questions (several??? yea right!!)

1) Is there an optical "sweet spot" within the zoom range of the lens. Am I better off having the throw distance at the mid-portion of the range or some other point or no difference.

2) What is the throw angle of the projector (0 degrees?)?? I assume that no lens displacement is the best situation. If that is so, then for example, if the center of the lens is pointed at the center of the screen is the picture centered??(that is what the installation diagram seems to indicate) If not, is there a chart showing displacement vs screen size?

Thanks again:

Steve
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post #925 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 09:01 PM
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Would I have any trouble projecting onto a 120" - 128" from 14 feet away? Want it to be able to fill the screen from that distance.
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post #926 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wizman2378 View Post

Care to elaborate? The Z4 still looks really good in my eyes and friends are still blown away when they come over to watch stuff on it.

Not much need to elaborate if you look at the specs. The Z4 is a 720p projector; the AE-4000U is a 1080p projector. Here's a review that compares the Z4 with the AE-900: http://www.projectorcentral.com/ae900_plvz4.htm
For the most part, the reviewer finds the two products to be equal. While I've never owned a Z4, I did replace an AE-900 with the new 4000 series. The difference is mind-blowing and your friends minds will be blown into outer space when they see it. I guess RapalloAV already said that. Like yourself, my friends were impressed with my 720p projector, simply because most of them are still watching 32" TVs.
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post #927 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by MattGuyOR View Post

Would I have any trouble projecting onto a 120" - 128" from 14 feet away? Want it to be able to fill the screen from that distance.

Not at all. You can check the various calculators on some of the dealers' home pages and I can tell you that the Panasonic manual will allow you to project onto a 120" screen from as close as 11'9" and as far as 23'7" (for 16:9. The 2.35:1 numbers are 12'5 to 18'8"). Right now I'm at 11'5" for a 114" screen and the picture is great, but I'm going to move my projector back a few feet; it's so large that it's definitely in my peripheral vision, so consider where you'll be sitting and be sure to mount the projector above or behind you, if possible.
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post #928 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by rprice54 View Post

The point of the conduit is so I can run additional lines or change out lines over time if need be. A little fish tape and we're good to go. I will hook up the PJ with the cable stretched out on the floor first to be sure it can handle it.

the 40ft cable is not "certified" because that length is out of the HDMI certification range (from my understanding). But if it doesn't work monoprice will get it back.

Blue Jeans is claiming that their Belden BJC Series 1 cable is certified to 45', so there is an alternative if the monoprice doesn't work. Expensive stuff at $110.50 for a 40 footer. Instead of running a fish tape into a conduit with existing wiring and running the risk of damaging that delicate wiring, I'd just insert a strong pull cord when you make your initial run. I had an old S-Video cable lying around and I use that as my pull cord, but I've only got an 8' run to deal with.
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post #929 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruce3404 View Post

Blue Jeans is claiming that their Belden BJC Series 1 cable is certified to 45', so there is an alternative if the monoprice doesn't work. Expensive stuff at $110.50 for a 40 footer. Instead of running a fish tape into a conduit with existing wiring and running the risk of damaging that delicate wiring, I'd just insert a strong pull cord when you make your initial run. I had an old S-Video cable lying around and I use that as my pull cord, but I've only got an 8' run to deal with.

FISHING LINE... cheap, strong, and much easier to use than an S-vid cable as a pull line. It also has almost zero chance of getting hung up on something.

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post #930 of 8513 Old 11-01-2009, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruce3404 View Post

Not at all. You can check the various calculators on some of the dealers' home pages and I can tell you that the Panasonic manual will allow you to project onto a 120" screen from as close as 11'9" and as far as 23'7" (for 16:9. The 2.35:1 numbers are 12'5 to 18'8"). Right now I'm at 11'5" for a 114" screen and the picture is great, but I'm going to move my projector back a few feet; it's so large that it's definitely in my peripheral vision, so consider where you'll be sitting and be sure to mount the projector above or behind you, if possible.

Thank you. I already have a spot for it, I have it mounted above and behind me. I have the 1000 on it, which I've owned for about 2.5 years now. I love the projector, but it's getting about time to move up. I'll have to see what I can get for it with my 100" 16:9 Carada Criterion screen.
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