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post #991 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 05:47 PM
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I know I have asked this about 3-4 pages ago. But still haven't heard any comments on it. My game to movie ratio is about 50/50, so it's a big deal. So I tried calibration again on my DLP HD70 720p with the PS3 via HDMI at 720p using Guitar Hero World Tour and the guitar. I don't know what settings I am using on the HD70 right now, but I do know it doesn't have a "fast" mode. I am not the greatest Guitar Hero player and my calibration ranged from about 30-36ms for video over about 3 tries.

So it's nice to hear that with Fast mode turned on with the AE4000, that it appears to keep up.

But rhythm games seem to all have calibration to account for lag. But the real test is non-rhythm games like FPS games where lag means death and as far as I have seen, those games can't be calibrated for input to display lag.

Any FPS gamers have the AE3000 or AE4000 that used to have DLP? If so, can you tell me your thoughts? I know there are tons of threads talking about DLP vs LCD gaming lag, but I haven't read any good ones lately. Generally DLP seems to get better comments in this area.

Since I am planning on moving from DLP to LCD specifically because of the AE4000, I am curious about 2 specific things in gaming.
1. Input to Display lag. This causes death. Especially since I am already not that great at FPS games. But I enjoy them.
2. Motion blur/artifacts. This counts for movies as well. But with games, the motion can be very fast, very high contrast, and often high motion much of the time. And for movies like fast action & sports movies.

I have been extremely happy with my 720p HD70 DLP projector for 3 years for both of these aspects. But I am not happy with the black level. And now I want to go to 1080p. I thought about the HD20, but side by side with the AE4000, the blacks on the HD20 look like my HD70. Which is not terrible, but not great either. I would rather have the blacks of the AE4000.

Hopefully I can get some great comments and links about the above 2 items. While many LCD projector owners might be happy about gaming on the AE4000 as a step up in their personal LCD projector history, I don't want to be unhappy about moving to LCD from DLP due to lag or motion blur. This isn't to bring up the pros and cons of LCD vs DLP. But just the 2 aspects that are important to me right now before I buy.
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post #992 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joseph Clark View Post

Yes, dark walls made a HUGE difference in the viewing experience for me. I had white walls and ceiling with my original CRT projector and they always bothered me (even though the frame had a black border). I found myself constantly "masking" the screen with my hands or some fabric I held up. I finally decided to commit to making the walls and ceiling dark. It raised my home theater experience to whole new level. It's impossible to overstate the difference it made. It took me quite a while to do it, but it was worth every minute.

Same here. The difference is staggering.

I want to hear opinions from people who don't have a dog in the fight.
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post #993 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 06:20 PM
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The reason my remodel took so long (other than a general ineptitude at remodeling) was that I wanted to tackle some audio problems at the same time I made the room darker. Although at the time I wasn't aware of other AVS threads that deal with acoustical treatments, I was able to tame the awful audio in my theater at the same time I worked to darken the room, killing a couple of birds with one stone. I did this with fiberglass panels and Vellux blankets I got at Target. I was able to create low cost acoustical panels. (It actually turned out fairly attractive, despite how that sounds.) When I discovered the AVS threads on improving sound with Owens Corning rigid fiberglass panels, I used what I learned to treat my bedroom - the same room where the Panasonic 4000 may end up soon.

It was a bit time intensive, but when I was finished, I had a room that was close to being a bat cave, and the sound improved just as dramatically. Treating the room for sound and picture at the same time took more time, but in the end it saved me from having to duplicate much of that effort later.

Joe Clark

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post #994 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joseph Clark View Post

Yes, dark walls made a HUGE difference in the viewing experience for me. I had white walls and ceiling with my original CRT projector and they always bothered me (even though the frame had a black border). I found myself constantly "masking" the screen with my hands or some fabric I held up. I finally decided to commit to making the walls and ceiling dark. It raised my home theater experience to whole new level. It's impossible to overstate the difference it made. It took me quite a while to do it, but it was worth every minute.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xenon2000 View Post

I agree too. I had white walls for about 1 month and then I painted them dark blue and it was a huge day and night difference. Way worth the time and effort. People spend a lot of money on the projector, source and surround sound, and $50-100 of paint (or less than $50 for me) and the difference is way worth more than the time and money in paint.

Lucky you guys. I wish I can do that. My whole house interior is one color and io I do that my wife probably will kill me first before let me do that
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post #995 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 08:01 PM
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I sent back the AE3000 because i could not get a picture using my 5 year old 50 foot HDMI cable i have installed in the ceiling. I had a AE700 and the AX200 which both worked fine.I am waiting for the AE4000 to see if it will work.
I also have a component cable installed in the ceiling. If the HDMI cable doesn't work, would the component cable give me a good picture or should i try to get the cable out and order a new 50 foot HDMI cable?
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post #996 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 08:16 PM
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Thank you guys for the response. Now what kind of colors are your walls painted? Does it have to be like a really dark color (ex: black)? Or can a dark brown or grey color work? Any suggestions would be helpful.
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post #997 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by megashadow10 View Post

Thank you guys for the response. Now what kind of colors are your walls painted? Does it have to be like a really dark color (ex: black)? Or can a dark brown or grey color work? Any suggestions would be helpful.

No it doesnt need to be, black, find a darker shade thats pleasing.....

Darker shades of brown, blue, greys, greens whatever makes the room look nice with the carpets, seats, when the lights are on.
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post #998 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by megashadow10 View Post

Thank you guys for the response. Now what kind of colors are your walls painted? Does it have to be like a really dark color (ex: black)? Or can a dark brown or grey color work? Any suggestions would be helpful.

Any darker color should work - just make sure you use a flat/matte finish.
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post #999 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vid53 View Post

I sent back the AE3000 because i could not get a picture using my 5 year old 50 foot HDMI cable i have installed in the ceiling. I had a AE700 and the AX200 which both worked fine.I am waiting for the AE4000 to see if it will work.
I also have a component cable installed in the ceiling. If the HDMI cable doesn't work, would the component cable give me a good picture or should i try to get the cable out and order a new 50 foot HDMI cable?

You probably just need an HDMI extender, like this one:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

If that doesn't work, then try replacing the HDMI cable. Your Blu-ray player is not going to output 1080p over component.
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post #1000 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Whitefield View Post

You probably just need an HDMI extender, like this one:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

If that doesn't work, then try replacing the HDMI cable. Your Blu-ray player is not going to output 1080p over component.

I second it!
Try an HDMI extender first placed at the projector end then the shortest HDMI cable from the extender to the projector. If then it still doesn't work you need to change the cable. Some older 5 year HDMI cables could easily be problematic with todays 1080p gear.
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post #1001 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 08:56 PM
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Concerning masking:

I tried to take a photo with my iPhone, but it's not particularly good at capturing black.

Here, you can barely make out four shades of black:



I used the Dark Knight DVD (Widescreen edition) and set the bottom masking bar to 50% (value of 35) for comparison.
  • The top band is the color of the blackout bars on the DVD itself.
  • Below that you can see what the 4000's masking bar provides.
  • Below that is a gap I left between the image and the masking on my screen (so this is the ambient light of the room on the screen itself).
  • And finally we have the black masking border of the projector screen (and eventually the room beyond).
You will notice that the digital masking that the projector is very difficult to make out from just the normal ambient light on the screen itself. This will obviously get more distinguishable the darker you are able to get your room (mine is far from ideal). However, the difference between the bars from the DVD signal itself is striking IMO.

BTW: I believe the reason this is, is that "video black" isn't particularly black (I forget what the actual level is) in order to look more consistent across a range of video displays. I imagine this is different for BlueRay than it is for DVD though.
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post #1002 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 09:02 PM
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Bingo your the first to show it!
I was about to take a pix tonight and show the guys.
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post #1003 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xenon2000 View Post

I know I have asked this about 3-4 pages ago. But still haven't heard any comments on it. My game to movie ratio is about 50/50, so it's a big deal. So I tried calibration again on my DLP HD70 720p with the PS3 via HDMI at 720p using Guitar Hero World Tour and the guitar. I don't know what settings I am using on the HD70 right now, but I do know it doesn't have a "fast" mode. I am not the greatest Guitar Hero player and my calibration ranged from about 30-36ms for video over about 3 tries.

So it's nice to hear that with Fast mode turned on with the AE4000, that it appears to keep up.

But rhythm games seem to all have calibration to account for lag. But the real test is non-rhythm games like FPS games where lag means death and as far as I have seen, those games can't be calibrated for input to display lag.

Any FPS gamers have the AE3000 or AE4000 that used to have DLP? If so, can you tell me your thoughts? I know there are tons of threads talking about DLP vs LCD gaming lag, but I haven't read any good ones lately. Generally DLP seems to get better comments in this area.

Since I am planning on moving from DLP to LCD specifically because of the AE4000, I am curious about 2 specific things in gaming.
1. Input to Display lag. This causes death. Especially since I am already not that great at FPS games. But I enjoy them.
2. Motion blur/artifacts. This counts for movies as well. But with games, the motion can be very fast, very high contrast, and often high motion much of the time. And for movies like fast action & sports movies.

I have been extremely happy with my 720p HD70 DLP projector for 3 years for both of these aspects. But I am not happy with the black level. And now I want to go to 1080p. I thought about the HD20, but side by side with the AE4000, the blacks on the HD20 look like my HD70. Which is not terrible, but not great either. I would rather have the blacks of the AE4000.

Hopefully I can get some great comments and links about the above 2 items. While many LCD projector owners might be happy about gaming on the AE4000 as a step up in their personal LCD projector history, I don't want to be unhappy about moving to LCD from DLP due to lag or motion blur. This isn't to bring up the pros and cons of LCD vs DLP. But just the 2 aspects that are important to me right now before I buy.

I don't have any good measurement equipment at home, but I played around a bit in a couple FPSs and it feels really good, and I could definitely feel a bit of sluggishness in Normal mode vs Fast mode (though it was very subtle). 33ms delay is pretty damn good when games like Halo already have a built in 100ms delay themselves.

Here's a good writeup on this stuff from a bit ago:
http://www.eurogamer.net/articles/di...factor-article

It would be cool if someone could to similar tests with a few projectors for comparison.
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post #1004 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonJB View Post

Any darker color should work - just make sure you use a flat/matte finish.

I used navy blue Vellux blankets cut and glued over 2x4' fiberglass ceiling panels. I framed them with 1x2" strips of poplar stained a light color. The panels are very dark and practically disappear when the lights go down. I also went with a complementary color scheme - some of the navy blue panels are broken up by the browns and oranges of the art works. It adds life to the room. Track lighting spots on the art provide contrast when the lights are up and prevents the room from becoming too funereal.

I probably broke some acoustical rules with the number and type of panels I used, but I'm very happy with the improvements in sound I was able to achieve, and the improvements to the viewing experience are amazing.

Joe Clark

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post #1005 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joseph Clark View Post

I used navy blue Vellux blankets cut and glued over 2x4' fiberglass ceiling panels. I framed them with 1x2" strips of poplar stained a light color. The panels are very dark and practically disappear when the lights go down. I also went with a complementary color scheme - some of the navy blue panels are broken up by the browns and oranges of the art works. It adds life to the room. Track lighting spots on the art provide contrast when the lights are up and prevents the room from becoming too funereal.

I probably broke some acoustical rules with the number and type of panels I used, but I'm very happy with the improvements in sound I was able to achieve, and the improvements to the viewing experience are amazing.

Would love to see your results. Got any pictures to share?
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post #1006 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aleiby View Post

I used the Dark Knight DVD (Widescreen edition) and set the bottom masking bar to 50% (value of 35) for comparison.
  • The top band is the color of the blackout bars on the DVD itself.
  • Below that you can see what the 4000's masking bar provides.
  • Below that is a gap I left between the image and the masking on my screen (so this is the ambient light of the room on the screen itself).
  • And finally we have the black masking border of the projector screen (and eventually the room beyond).
You will notice that the digital masking that the projector is very difficult to make out from just the normal ambient light on the screen itself. This will obviously get more distinguishable the darker you are able to get your room (mine is far from ideal). However, the difference between the bars from the DVD signal itself is striking IMO.

BTW: I believe the reason this is, is that "video black" isn't particularly black (I forget what the actual level is) in order to look more consistent across a range of video displays. I imagine this is different for BlueRay than it is for DVD though.

"Video black" on both DVD and Blu-ray is level 16, but basically we are supposed to set the projector so that it is doing as black as possible for pixels at level 16. Unless that DVD was encoded wrong it looks to me like your projector isn't calibrated correctly and you should lower your Brightness setting until the bars look the same as when you use the digital masking. You could try another 2.35:1 movie to make sure it isn't The Dark Knight disc. Do you have a calibration disc? If so you could set the Brightness using it. Or maybe your player is outputting PC levels instead of video levels. Were you using HDMI to the projector?

You could also use the waveform monitor in the AE4000 and put a horizontal white line into the bars without the masking enabled. If the waveform monitor shows those pixels as way above 0% then either the disc is wrong or your calibration (your Brightness setting specifically) is wrong.

I tried the TDK Blu-ray disc and with my setting of +2 for Brightness and a little bit of raised gamma down low from using a calibration disc the black bars and the digital masking are indistinguishable. In either case it looks like the projector is making those pixels as black as it can make them. That isn't to say they are black as they are still brighter than my screen frame, but the projector is doing what it can do for black.

--Darin

This is the AV Science Forum. Please don't be gullible and please do remember the saying, "Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me."
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post #1007 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 10:57 PM
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Well after two day of reading, I think that the AE4000 is it. Will probably order tomorrow

Probably wrong thread but is my old Panamorph U-100 usable with this PJ and if it is should I use it?

Steve
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post #1008 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 11:47 PM
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Or maybe your player is outputting PC levels instead of video levels. Were you using HDMI to the projector?

Ah yes, I guess I should have clarified. That was using VGA output of my 360 (unfortunately, I have a first run one that doesn't have HDMI - wasn't a big deal when all I had was a 720p DLP previously - have some upgrading to do still).

I haven't done any real calibrating yet.

------

Unrelated, I tried hooking up my PC tonight, but when I set my secondary output to 1920x1080@60hz, it doesn't fill the whole screen (instead, it's shifted to the right and squished). I tried this in both Snow Leopard and XP on my MBP, and in XP on my gf's Dell and got the same results in each case.

I get a full image from my 360 just fine. Any idea what's going on there?
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post #1009 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aleiby View Post

Unrelated, I tried hooking up my PC tonight, but when I set my secondary output to 1920x1080@60hz, it doesn't fill the whole screen (instead, it's shifted to the right and squished). I tried this in both Snow Leopard and XP on my MBP, and in XP on my gf's Dell and got the same results in each case.

I get a full image from my 360 just fine. Any idea what's going on there?

I got my 4000 today One issue I had was getting my media center to output 1080p to it - all it wanted to output was 1080i - if you go into the menu of the panasonic you can see if thinks your video signal is actually 1080p.

I finally solved my issue by installing the Beta nvidia driver :/ kind of annoying.
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post #1010 of 8531 Old 11-02-2009, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xenon2000 View Post

I know I have asked this about 3-4 pages ago. But still haven't heard any comments on it. My game to movie ratio is about 50/50, so it's a big deal. So I tried calibration again on my DLP HD70 720p with the PS3 via HDMI at 720p using Guitar Hero World Tour and the guitar. I don't know what settings I am using on the HD70 right now, but I do know it doesn't have a "fast" mode. I am not the greatest Guitar Hero player and my calibration ranged from about 30-36ms for video over about 3 tries.

So it's nice to hear that with Fast mode turned on with the AE4000, that it appears to keep up.

But rhythm games seem to all have calibration to account for lag. But the real test is non-rhythm games like FPS games where lag means death and as far as I have seen, those games can't be calibrated for input to display lag.

Any FPS gamers have the AE3000 or AE4000 that used to have DLP? If so, can you tell me your thoughts? I know there are tons of threads talking about DLP vs LCD gaming lag, but I haven't read any good ones lately. Generally DLP seems to get better comments in this area.

Since I am planning on moving from DLP to LCD specifically because of the AE4000, I am curious about 2 specific things in gaming.
1. Input to Display lag. This causes death. Especially since I am already not that great at FPS games. But I enjoy them.
2. Motion blur/artifacts. This counts for movies as well. But with games, the motion can be very fast, very high contrast, and often high motion much of the time. And for movies like fast action & sports movies.

I have been extremely happy with my 720p HD70 DLP projector for 3 years for both of these aspects. But I am not happy with the black level. And now I want to go to 1080p. I thought about the HD20, but side by side with the AE4000, the blacks on the HD20 look like my HD70. Which is not terrible, but not great either. I would rather have the blacks of the AE4000.

Hopefully I can get some great comments and links about the above 2 items. While many LCD projector owners might be happy about gaming on the AE4000 as a step up in their personal LCD projector history, I don't want to be unhappy about moving to LCD from DLP due to lag or motion blur. This isn't to bring up the pros and cons of LCD vs DLP. But just the 2 aspects that are important to me right now before I buy.

Hi Xenon, I measured input lag using RB2 on my 360 at ~35ms for the 4000 in fast mode with frame creation off. This is pretty much identical to your HD70 (and my old 7210) so if you're happy with the input lag of your HD70 you'll be fine with the 4000. As for the blur/motion lag that's down to your own perception. The motion can be 'smoothed' using the frame creation modes but these are a no-no for gaming as they introduce lots of input lag (from ~80ms in mode 1 up to ~180ms in mode 3). I've played some Halo 3 and Killzone 2 over the weekend and have noticed no difference in smoothness between my old 7210 DLP and the 4000. I spend ~70% of my projector time gaming and tend to play fast action games and so far I'm very happy with the 4000.

SIK
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post #1011 of 8531 Old 11-03-2009, 01:42 AM
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If someone of those early recipients, could please
comment on the unit's package size and weight, in order
to evaluate overseas shipping.

Thanks in advance,

Ori.
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post #1012 of 8531 Old 11-03-2009, 03:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oriberko View Post

If someone of those early recipients, could please
comment on the unit's package size and weight, in order
to evaluate overseas shipping.

My UPS tracking page lists it as 25.70 Lbs .
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post #1013 of 8531 Old 11-03-2009, 05:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vid53 View Post

I sent back the AE3000 because i could not get a picture using my 5 year old 50 foot HDMI cable i have installed in the ceiling. I had a AE700 and the AX200 which both worked fine.I am waiting for the AE4000 to see if it will work.
I also have a component cable installed in the ceiling. If the HDMI cable doesn't work, would the component cable give me a good picture or should i try to get the cable out and order a new 50 foot HDMI cable?

The 4000 won't work either. I had a Marantz VP4001, Sony HW15, BenQ W6000, and Sharp Z15000 all working with a 45ft HDMI cable. Neither Panasonic worked. Fortunately it works perfectly fine with the 35 ft cable I already had in my ceiling.
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post #1014 of 8531 Old 11-03-2009, 05:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darinp2 View Post

"Video black" on both DVD and Blu-ray is level 16, but basically we are supposed to set the projector so that it is doing as black as possible for pixels at level 16. Unless that DVD was encoded wrong it looks to me like your projector isn't calibrated correctly and you should lower your Brightness setting until the bars look the same as when you use the digital masking. You could try another 2.35:1 movie to make sure it isn't The Dark Knight disc. Do you have a calibration disc? If so you could set the Brightness using it. Or maybe your player is outputting PC levels instead of video levels. Were you using HDMI to the projector?

You could also use the waveform monitor in the AE4000 and put a horizontal white line into the bars without the masking enabled. If the waveform monitor shows those pixels as way above 0% then either the disc is wrong or your calibration (your Brightness setting specifically) is wrong.

I tried the TDK Blu-ray disc and with my setting of +2 for Brightness and a little bit of raised gamma down low from using a calibration disc the black bars and the digital masking are indistinguishable. In either case it looks like the projector is making those pixels as black as it can make them. That isn't to say they are black as they are still brighter than my screen frame, but the projector is doing what it can do for black.

--Darin

Although this is the area where I tend to get confused in the details of how PC and Video levels actually work, it's why I like ATI video cards better than nVidia cards for Home Theater PC's. With ATI cards, the setting for outputting Video levels from the card is in the Catalyst Control Center software. They refer to the settings as Full RGB (PC level) and Studio - Limited RGB (Video level). Maybe nVidia cards have a similar setting, but I've never figured out how to access it (though I haven't tried for a long time, since the ATI cards are so easy to set). Also, the ATI cards have a great feature to allow you to combine HD audio and video into one HDMI output from the PC.

This may seem off topic, but it's an issue I've had to deal with for every projector I've had since DVI (and HDMI) was introduced and I started using digital connections between all my devices. I can't imagine not having access to my PC on the big home theater screen, and I prefer the look of HDMI to component (not to mention that I have video and audio noise issues when I try to use analog signals in my house - and HDMI solves those problems). I'll be interested in finding out how the Panasonic handles PC/Video levels and what it calls them. My Sharp has auto and manual settings for handling differences in signal type.

Joe Clark

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post #1015 of 8531 Old 11-03-2009, 05:37 AM
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Is painting black borders on your screen (or physical masking) redundant?
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post #1016 of 8531 Old 11-03-2009, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by loganross View Post

The 4000 won't work either. I had a Marantz VP4001, Sony HW15, BenQ W6000, and Sharp Z15000 all working with a 45ft HDMI cable. Neither Panasonic worked. Fortunately it works perfectly fine with the 35 ft cable I already had in my ceiling.

Wow, that's not good. I have a 50 ft Mono HDMI cable. I don't mind swapping the cable but I do need at least 45'.

I want to hear opinions from people who don't have a dog in the fight.
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post #1017 of 8531 Old 11-03-2009, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Alex solomon View Post

Wow, that's not good. I have a 50 ft Mono HDMI cable. I don't mind swapping the cable but I do need at least 45'.

I have a high-quality 50' HDMI cable, and although it worked fine with non-protected sources, I could only get it to work reliably on HDCP-protected Blu-ray by using an HDMI extender or a switch that boosts the signal. Both of these have worked for me:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

I have an older receiver without HDMI, so until I upgrade the 4x2 switch lets me choose sources and also output them to either the projector or a small monitor.

I would give the extender a shot first, it will probably solve your problem.
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post #1018 of 8531 Old 11-03-2009, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by bruce3404 View Post

The Panasonic manual simply gives ranges. I was also curious if the front vs the middle vs the rear of the range really makes any difference. I asked this question here last week and didn't really get a definitive answer, so I called sales at Visual Apex. The salesman recommended that the projector be placed between the middle and front end of the range, especially if light control is a factor. Mine is currently at the front end of the range, but I'm going to have to go through the hassle of moving it back a couple feet so that it mounts above my head. Why? The PJ is so big, that it's in my peripheral vision, so I would recommend that you consider that in your placement. Of course, ceiling height will factor in and with a high enough ceiling, you could probably get away with having it in front of you. Also, if you have seating behind the front row, you'll need to consider how mounting will impact others' views. Here's what I'd do: Construct a box about the same size as the projector and have someone hold it up to the ceiling and see how it looks in various seating positions in your room.


Gents, the generaly rule is...the closer you put the pj to the screen, the brighter the image (at the expense of contrast)...the further away, the better the contrast (at the expense of brightness)...most people report the best results somewhere in the middle, though they also report better focus and uniformity w/the pj further away. Try it out for yourself and report back if you see a noticeable difference either way, I think we'd all benefit from this information.

Thanks,
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post #1019 of 8531 Old 11-03-2009, 06:54 AM
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This is my first projector, and I assume I could just wait until it arrives (Thursday, it looks like), but I'm confused over the two projector calculators (especially projection calculator classic).

With the classic version at 16:9, getting a 100 width at 18ft throw, requires 1.25x zoom. If I keep screen size the same, I need 1.5x zoom at a 15ft throw. I must be missing something, because this seems backward. The closer I get to the screen, the MORE zoom I need, all else being equal? Using the new projector calculator, I see when zoom stays the same and I increase throw distance my Foot-lamberts decrease.

At the end of the day I'm trying to find the minimum distance/zoom necessary to get a 100 width picture, as I want all the lumens/foot-lamberts I can get, but still have flexibility to zoom out and get a 110 2.35:1 picture. Thanks for any help.
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post #1020 of 8531 Old 11-03-2009, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cashstore View Post

This is my first projector, and I assume I could just wait until it arrives (Thursday, it looks like), but I'm confused over the two projector calculators (especially projection calculator classic).

With the classic version at 16:9, getting a 100 width at 18ft throw, requires 1.25x zoom. If I keep screen size the same, I need 1.5x zoom at a 15ft throw. I must be missing something, because this seems backward. The closer I get to the screen, the MORE zoom I need, all else being equal? Using the new projector calculator, I see when zoom stays the same and I increase throw distance my Foot-lamberts decrease.

At the end of the day I'm trying to find the minimum distance/zoom necessary to get a 100 width picture, as I want all the lumens/foot-lamberts I can get, but still have flexibility to zoom out and get a 110 2.35:1 picture. Thanks for any help.

11 ft. 5 in. is your magical throw distance that will give you the brightest image with this pj at 100" (16:9) and still accommodate 110" 2.35:1. Don't worry about the "more" or "less" zoom thing, its backward from what you would think...higher zoom multiplier 2.0 is less than 1.0 in zoom, counterintuitive huh? Be careful in putting your pj all the way at the end of the zoom, pjs in the past do some funky things to the images at the extremes...place it 5% inside max or min just to be safe (this is probably dogmatic now days but good to be safe).
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