Panasonic PT-AE4000 MSRP $1999 - Page 51 - AVS Forum
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post #1501 of 8516 Old 11-10-2009, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSensFan View Post

Ok... I do not thnk my older Yamaha RX-V596 has this ability.

Good Lord! You buy one new toy and then are forced to buy another, the never ending cycle.

Then your source player/dvd should have lipsync adjustment. Do all films/material have this problem?
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post #1502 of 8516 Old 11-10-2009, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jsm88 View Post

Thank you, thank you very much - sounds like my decision is set, now I just need to sell my old condo (anyone looking for a 2br in downtown dc ) and I order the 4000.

I'll trade you a new ae4000 plus 2 spare bulbs for you D.C. pad...
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post #1503 of 8516 Old 11-10-2009, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSensFan View Post

Not sure if this is the proper place to post, however I am having an issue with my AE4000 and lip sync.

When I play content from my HTPC or my PopCorn Hour 200 the audio seems to be be a bit faster than the actual lip movement.

Can this only be controlled by my receiver? I tried bumping the delay to the max of 40ms but it did not help much.

I see that on several movies (PopCorn Hour C200), but majority are fine.
Which FC mode are you using? I am using the default (FC=1)
Thanks,
Wojtek
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post #1504 of 8516 Old 11-10-2009, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VirTERM View Post

I am having problems controlling my 4k from harmony 1000 with rf extender.
Basically, nothing works. Are you using 4k definition from Logitech's database ot perhaps 3k would work. I did not really spend much time on it but the initial impression is that it doesn't communicate at all.

Wojtek

Problem solved. It was caused by my mods. Basically, I made changes to remote transmitters assuming that each pair is wired in parallel ... but they are actually in series, so the LED mounted on the pj wasn't working since I removed the other one. Long story short, everything is in order
Wojtek
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post #1505 of 8516 Old 11-10-2009, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VirTERM View Post

Problem solved. It was caused by my mods. Basically, I made changes to remote transmitters assuming that each pair is wired in parallel ... but they are actually in series, so the LED mounted on the pj wasn't working since I removed the other one. Long story short, everything is in order
Wojtek

Good to know. My older Niles whole house IR system allows up to 4 devices to be strung together in series for each IR blaster output. That makes the wiring job a little harder, but the relationship is quite clear. I used a simple barrier strip from Radio Shack to make the connections easier. Systems like the Harmony extender must need to be wired together in a similar way, although it uses mini connectors. Not nearly as obvious how they need to be wired, since the connections are internal to the extender.

Joe Clark

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post #1506 of 8516 Old 11-10-2009, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pottscb View Post

Art's normal screen is a ~133" (I think) 16X9 Stewart Firehawk, which although it has a claimed gain of 1.3 is actually a brightness HOG (you could use a 1.1 ga white screen and it would seem much brighter in a dark room)...if you're using a white screen, and especially if it has any gain...you should be fine.

Thank you,

Should be placing the order soon......

Reece
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post #1507 of 8516 Old 11-10-2009, 07:03 PM
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Just a quick question..

Is anyone out there using a low cost 100 or 110" screen with this projector? Trying to get an idea of a good screen to match with the 4000 but the more I read the more confused I seem to be getting.

I've got a pitch black room with light gray walls.

Any advice would be great.

Regards,
Simon
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post #1508 of 8516 Old 11-10-2009, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simonpickard View Post

Just a quick question..

Is anyone out there using a low cost 100 or 110" screen with this projector? Trying to get an idea of a good screen to match with the 4000 but the more I read the more confused I seem to be getting.

I've got a pitch black room with light gray walls.

Any advice would be great.

Regards,
Simon

I'm projecting onto a $20 4'x8' sheet of plastic I picked up at Home Depot. To be honest, it really doesn't look bad. My actual screen material (WilsonArt Fashion Grey countertop laminate, $55 from Home Depot) is on order, and this plastic sheet has been an excellent stop-gap. I'm actually thinking about keeping it around for 16:9 material.

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post #1509 of 8516 Old 11-10-2009, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeatAVS View Post

I'm setting mine up on a Chief RPA-U, solid mount.

Quote:
Originally Posted by loganross View Post

+1. Been using the peerless for a couple of years. On my 3rd projector with it. Rock solid!

Thank you for your replies.

Are you folks using it with the extension rod or having flush mount with the ceiling ?

I am anticipating my screen top to be about 20"-24" (as I have arch top that drops 12" from the ceiling, then will have ~6" gap for the top of the screen wall framing, then ~3" for screen black border). The PJ will be mounted approximately about 19' from the screen. I think, I have to go with the extension in this scenario as I am reading that to have 2.35:1 the center of the AE4K's lens cannot go beyond the top edge of the screen (in other words, I have drop the PJ lens down to 20-24" from the celing). Btw, I am planning to have 12' wide CIH curved screen and my room size is approx 17'x25'.

I would really appreciate if any of you can share some pictures of your mount (step-by-step would be great).

Thanks for all your inputs.

K-4ce
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post #1510 of 8516 Old 11-10-2009, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Whitefield View Post

Don't use the V-POSITION setting in the POSITION menu, leave it at zero. This is a global setting that affects all aspects, you don't want that. Instead, use V-AREA POSITION in the LENS MEMORY menu.

Here's a quick guide to setting up 16:9 and 2.35 lens memories for a 2.35 screen:
  1. Level the projector.
  2. Display some 16:9 content with bright edges. Zoom to the height of the screen. Use manual lens shift to center. Adjust Zoom/Focus and save in lens memory.
  3. Display some 2.35 content with bright edges. Zoom to fill the width of the screen. In the LENS MEMORY menu, adjust V-AREA POSITION to center the image vertically on the screen. Adjust Zoom/Focus and save in lens memory.
  4. If you cannot shift the image enough using V-AREA POSITION in the previous step:
  • Back off slightly on the V-AREA POSITION from the limit of 63 to give you room to adjust.
  • Use manual lens shift to center the image vertically.
  • Display some 16:9 content and reload the 16:9 lens memory you created earlier.
  • Use LENS MEMORY > V-AREA POSITION to re-center the 16:9 image. Continue with step 2 above.
As a final step you may want to set the UPPER/LOWER MASKING AREA for 2.35 and save it, this will prevent overspill when showing 2.35 content.

Thanks for that detailed explanation. I just checked and did use the V-AREA POSITION under the Lens control menu earlier to shift the 16:9 image down and it was cutting the bottom of the image when I shift it down. But I am going to try the reverse order, i.e first do 16:9 and then 2.35 (and the rest of the steps) and hopefully that fixes it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonJB View Post

By doing the 2.35:1 last (and so applying v-position to the 2.35:1 setting) you should find that the only part of the image being chopped off is the lower bars on 2.35:1 material. In my case, it's kind of useful because if I want to add additional masking, I only need to do it below the screen as the standard masking of my Carada screen catches what's left of the top.

Thanks, going to try that order.
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post #1511 of 8516 Old 11-10-2009, 08:04 PM
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http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

This is the mount I am using. Looks great in fact looks expensive. Lots of adjustability and you can hide your wires down the centre shaft.

Price is great even with shipping. Their cables are terrific also I use them all the time with clients for networking and grabbed a 45 foot HDMI cable for the projector that works great.
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post #1512 of 8516 Old 11-10-2009, 09:24 PM
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Mine just went up this afternoon. I am in an apt. so I am limited with the extent of "modifications" to the environment. I have reused a Chief mount with an anamorphic lens bracket. The drop down and ceiling attachment are PVC plumbing fixtures; much easier to work with than 1 1/2 threaded steel pipe, etc. The PJ is light ~16 lbs so the PVC seems adequate for the job.

Steve
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post #1513 of 8516 Old 11-11-2009, 05:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSensFan View Post

Anyone know where to pick up 2 inch M4 bolts?

My local Depot, etc did not have any longer than 1 inch and my mount needs 2 inch.

Try Ottawa Fastener Supply in Bells Corners. If they don't have them, call Legere Engineering on Morrison (but I don't know that they can help you).

Mike
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post #1514 of 8516 Old 11-11-2009, 05:51 AM - Thread Starter
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I am interested in a comparison of calibrated brightness for the AX200 (low power mode) vs the AE4000. The AX200 in low power mode is plenty bright for all of my usage scenarios.

Thanks,


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post #1515 of 8516 Old 11-11-2009, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Whitefield View Post

Don't use the V-POSITION setting in the POSITION menu, leave it at zero. This is a global setting that affects all aspects, you don't want that. Instead, use V-AREA POSITION in the LENS MEMORY menu...

I concur... I made a mistake in my earlier post. I checked last night, and my settings are as Bob describes.
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post #1516 of 8516 Old 11-11-2009, 06:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Sargent View Post

Try Ottawa Fastener Supply in Bells Corners.
Mike

Ah good call! I have been there many times. I will check them out.
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post #1517 of 8516 Old 11-11-2009, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSensFan View Post

Anyone know where to pick up 2 inch M4 bolts?

My local Depot, etc did not have any longer than 1 inch and my mount needs 2 inch.

I'm sure you have them by now, but for the record, SmallParts.com has a fantastic selection of materials for the DIY enthusiast (but they only have M4 screws up to 45mm (~1.8")). Everything from screws to raw metals to tubing, bearings, gears, and so forth.
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post #1518 of 8516 Old 11-11-2009, 06:48 AM
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Cine4home measured the AX200 at 620 lumens in cinema1 mode - and they measured the AE4000 at 680 Lumens in cinema1. So using their measurement tools for both -they appears to be fairly similar. An additional note -they measured native contrast at 1200:1 on the AX200 and 3000:1 on the AE4000.
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post #1519 of 8516 Old 11-11-2009, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Whitefield View Post

Don't use the V-POSITION setting in the POSITION menu, leave it at zero. This is a global setting that affects all aspects, you don't want that. Instead, use V-AREA POSITION in the LENS MEMORY menu.

Here's a quick guide to setting up 16:9 and 2.35 lens memories for a 2.35 screen:
  1. Level the projector.
  2. Display some 16:9 content with bright edges. Zoom to the height of the screen. Use manual lens shift to center. Adjust Zoom/Focus and save in lens memory.
  3. Display some 2.35 content with bright edges. Zoom to fill the width of the screen. In the LENS MEMORY menu, adjust V-AREA POSITION to center the image vertically on the screen. Adjust Zoom/Focus and save in lens memory.
  4. If you cannot shift the image enough using V-AREA POSITION in the previous step:
  • Back off slightly on the V-AREA POSITION from the limit of 63 to give you room to adjust.
  • Use manual lens shift to center the image vertically.
  • Display some 16:9 content and reload the 16:9 lens memory you created earlier.
  • Use LENS MEMORY > V-AREA POSITION to re-center the 16:9 image. Continue with step 2 above.
As a final step you may want to set the UPPER/LOWER MASKING AREA for 2.35 and save it, this will prevent overspill when showing 2.35 content.

Based on SimonJB's response to me earlier in this thread, I attempted this last night.

I first set everything right at 16:9 using the dials. I then put in a 2.4:1 movie and attempted to adjust using just V-area position.

Unfortunately, it wouldn't shift enough.

However, I also tried what Bob suggests above... however, it doesn't seem that V-position is useful for shifting 16:9 content. The moment you begin to adjust, it starts cutting off active screen area.

So I'm back to where I was - there appears to be no way to use auto-zoom without also manually adjusting the lens. It's not a huge deal, but I think it's something people should be aware of before they buy this projector.

For what it's worth, my 4000 is mounted about 6 inches above the top of my screen. You can sort of get an idea of the layout in this picture:

http://johnstewart.com/v/house/NewHa..._4663.JPG.html

So perhaps if the projector was lower, this wouldn't be an issue... but it just can't go lower without hitting people in the head (well, I'm pretty tall). I would have thought this would have been easy to achieve - I expect mine is a pretty standard setup.

Perhaps there is yet a way to do this by tilting the projector down, rather than having it point perpendicular to the screen, and then adjusting screen shape?
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post #1520 of 8516 Old 11-11-2009, 06:54 AM
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there is a way, its called keystoning. I won't be doing it, and my PJ is higher than my screen. I just don't find it that tough to reach up and twist the dial a half turn when I pop in 2.35 movies. I also never have to see the 'processing' image. I'm wondering how Dark Knight will look, with switching ratio's, and hopefullly filmmakers won't be doing any more films like that. Still, i'm thrilled with mine.
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post #1521 of 8516 Old 11-11-2009, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSensFan View Post

Ok... I do not thnk my older Yamaha RX-V596 has this ability.

Good Lord! You buy one new toy and then are forced to buy another, the never ending cycle.

I have an HTPC and use the AC3filter. To solve the sound out of sync problem with my AE3000, there is a "System" tab in this filter (AC3filter Config) that contains an Audio/Video sync slider that corrects the sound sync
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post #1522 of 8516 Old 11-11-2009, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferbal View Post

I have an HTPC and use the AC3filter. To solve the sound out of sync problem with my AE3000, there is a "System" tab in this filter (AC3filter Config) that contains an Audio/Video sync slider that corrects the sound sync

PC's...
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post #1523 of 8516 Old 11-11-2009, 07:45 AM
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Not to be OT but...Is using laminate not too reflective/glossy. I'm not experienced with diy screens but seems to be a bit shiny as I stand in my kitchen looking at my counter tops...? Do you glue it to a backer? One experienced response will do otherwise I know to go to screen zone.
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post #1524 of 8516 Old 11-11-2009, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simonpickard View Post

Just a quick question..

Is anyone out there using a low cost 100 or 110" screen with this projector? Trying to get an idea of a good screen to match with the 4000 but the more I read the more confused I seem to be getting.

I've got a pitch black room with light gray walls.

Any advice would be great.

Regards,
Simon

Go to the DIY screen section & search for Do-able board. I have one with an AE900u & it is great. you can make a 100" screen for $50 or less.

you need to see if your home depot carries it. It seems to not be avail eveywhere.

John
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post #1525 of 8516 Old 11-11-2009, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnstewart View Post

However, I also tried what Bob suggests above... however, it doesn't seem that V-position is useful for shifting 16:9 content. The moment you begin to adjust, it starts cutting off active screen area.

John, are you sure you're using V-AREA POSITION in the LENS MEMORY menu (not V-POSITION in the POSITION menu)?

Quote:


So I'm back to where I was - there appears to be no way to use auto-zoom without also manually adjusting the lens. It's not a huge deal, but I think it's something people should be aware of before they buy this projector.

For what it's worth, my 4000 is mounted about 6 inches above the top of my screen. You can sort of get an idea of the layout in this picture:

http://johnstewart.com/v/house/NewHa..._4663.JPG.html

So perhaps if the projector was lower, this wouldn't be an issue... but it just can't go lower without hitting people in the head (well, I'm pretty tall). I would have thought this would have been easy to achieve - I expect mine is a pretty standard setup.

Perhaps there is yet a way to do this by tilting the projector down, rather than having it point perpendicular to the screen, and then adjusting screen shape?

You should try lowering the projector 4-6" if possible, that's what I did. You see, there are some advantages to being short. Although you don't look all that tall on the Daily Show...

Yes, you can tilt the projector instead, but you'll have a small amount of keystoning. Avoid using the keystone correction feature if possible, it does bad things to the image.

I don't think it's fair to blame the projector--it's pretty amazing it does the zoom trick at all. But it really has to be at the level of the screen to pull it off.
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post #1526 of 8516 Old 11-11-2009, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simonpickard View Post

Just a quick question..

Is anyone out there using a low cost 100 or 110" screen with this projector? Trying to get an idea of a good screen to match with the 4000 but the more I read the more confused I seem to be getting.

I've got a pitch black room with light gray walls.

Any advice would be great.

Regards,
Simon


http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=203273052

This is what i bought. It works great. 150" screen. Thought it is too big. It is awesome.
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post #1527 of 8516 Old 11-11-2009, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnstewart View Post

So perhaps if the projector was lower, this wouldn't be an issue... but it just can't go lower without hitting people in the head (well, I'm pretty tall). I would have thought this would have been easy to achieve - I expect mine is a pretty standard setup.

Perhaps there is yet a way to do this by tilting the projector down, rather than having it point perpendicular to the screen, and then adjusting screen shape?

What about raising the screen a bit higher too

Murray Thompson

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post #1528 of 8516 Old 11-11-2009, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Whitefield View Post

John, are you sure you're using V-AREA POSITION in the LENS MEMORY menu (not V-POSITION in the POSITION menu)?


You should try lowering the projector 4-6" if possible, that's what I did. You see, there are some advantages to being short. Although you don't look all that tall on the Daily Show...

Yes, you can tilt the projector instead, but you'll have a small amount of keystoning. Avoid using the keystone correction feature if possible, it does bad things to the image.

I don't think it's fair to blame the projector--it's pretty amazing it does the zoom trick at all. But it really has to be at the level of the screen to pull it off.

Okay Bob or Rap, I am planning on getting the panny 4k, my question is after setting the V-position and having the proper 16x9 and 2.35:1 how does the masking part work? (under the lens set up)

HT Set Up: Epson 8350, Sony Strd G-920, JBL 7.1 Venue series speakers, JBL Sub12 subwoofer, Harmony One remote, Xbox 360, PS3, Sony BDP S350, Toshiba HDA2, Directv HR-24 DVR.
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post #1529 of 8516 Old 11-11-2009, 12:23 PM
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Using the steps Bob mentioned above, I got zoom (and auto zoom) to work properly. Key is to first set 16:9 image first and then 2.35 image and use V-area position setting on the the 2.35 image. I also use a 6" extension so the center of the lens is inside the screen area. Thanks for the pointers.
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post #1530 of 8516 Old 11-11-2009, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunil View Post

Using the steps Bob mentioned above, I got zoom (and auto zoom) to work properly. Key is to first set 16:9 image first and then 2.35 image and use V-area position setting on the the 2.35 image. I also use a 6" extension so the center of the lens is inside the screen area. Thanks for the pointers.

You use 2.35:1 screen ?
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