Panasonic PT-AE4000 MSRP $1999 - Page 52 - AVS Forum
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post #1531 of 8536 Old 11-11-2009, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 501transpo View Post

Mine just went up this afternoon. I am in an apt. so I am limited with the extent of "modifications" to the environment. I have reused a Chief mount with an anamorphic lens bracket. The drop down and ceiling attachment are PVC plumbing fixtures; much easier to work with than 1 1/2 threaded steel pipe, etc. The PJ is light ~16 lbs so the PVC seems adequate for the job.

Steve

Not sure if you've considered it but in my apartment I hung black curtains all around the room. They wouldn't let me attach anything to the walls so I built a frame of 2x2s around the room (being buttressed by the walls and corners 2x2s were sufficient). Then I got cheap curtains and rods from Lowe's and Walmart and make a homemade valance to cover the gap between the curtains and ceiling. The whole project cost me about $150 (mostly curtain cost), took an afternoon (longer if you include the shopping) and gave me 360 degree blackout in a 16x12 viewing area. And when I didn't want it dark I just opened the curtains so that they still hit the 2x2s

Here's a couple links to how it looked. Made a huge difference with my HDTV so I can't imaging how much it might help a projector and screen.

http://www.axiomaudio.com/boards/ubb...rue#Post158274

http://www.axiomaudio.com/boards/ubb...rue#Post219121

FYI I liked it so much I'm having custom curtains made for my new living room home theater.

Cheers,
Dean

"Tact is just not saying true stuff" Cordelia Chase.
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post #1532 of 8536 Old 11-11-2009, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by robber616 View Post

You use 2.35:1 screen ?

Yup. Not a screen right now, just taped out area in 2.35:1 AR.
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post #1533 of 8536 Old 11-11-2009, 05:27 PM
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Duct tape makes a great screen border.

~Dave

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post #1534 of 8536 Old 11-11-2009, 06:41 PM
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Can someone provide the firmware version their AE4000U is running?
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post #1535 of 8536 Old 11-11-2009, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by genesis_avs View Post

Can someone provide the firmware version their AE4000U is running?

by going into the service menu via pressing the power button > cancel > up arrow > down arrow > up arrow > down arrow > enter. It looks like all my version numbers are 1.00...

Does one have to send these units in to upgrade the firmware when available, or can it be loaded by the owner/user? Did the AE3000u have upgrades over the year its been out? Just wondering myself about such things...
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post #1536 of 8536 Old 11-11-2009, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by SpinsterSXRD View Post

Okay Bob or Rap, I am planning on getting the panny 4k, my question is after setting the V-position and having the proper 16x9 and 2.35:1 how does the masking part work? (under the lens set up)

Masking is mostly useful if you have a 2.35 screen, although it's also helpful to create a lens memory setting for 4:3 content to make the left/right pillars as dark as possible.

Load the lens memory setting you want to mask, display some content with bright edges, then use LENS CONTROL > UPPER MASKING AREA and LOWER MASKING AREA to mask it to just fill your screen. Save the lens memory setting.

Keep in mind masking will prevent subtitles from being shown if they appear outside the 2.35 area. You might want to create a separate 2.35 lens memory without the mask for that purpose.

See page 37 of the functional instructions.
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post #1537 of 8536 Old 11-11-2009, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Whitefield View Post

Masking is mostly useful if you have a 2.35 screen, although it's also helpful to create a lens memory setting for 4:3 content to make the left/right pillars as dark as possible.

Load the lens memory setting you want to mask, display some content with bright edges, then use LENS CONTROL > UPPER MASKING AREA and LOWER MASKING AREA to mask it to just fill your screen. Save the lens memory setting.

Keep in mind masking will prevent subtitles from being shown if they appear outside the 2.35 area. You might want to create a separate 2.35 lens memory without the mask for that purpose.

See page 37 of the functional instructions.

so you are saying that a black electronic mask will cover the upper and lower area that runs off the 2.35:1 image and block that light out part?

HT Set Up: Epson 8350, Sony Strd G-920, JBL 7.1 Venue series speakers, JBL Sub12 subwoofer, Harmony One remote, Xbox 360, PS3, Sony BDP S350, Toshiba HDA2, Directv HR-24 DVR.
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post #1538 of 8536 Old 11-11-2009, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by SpinsterSXRD View Post

so you are saying that a black electronic mask will cover the upper and lower area that runs off the 2.35:1 image and block that light out part?

Yes. Why the confusion? It just forces that part of the LCD to be as black as possible, which is much blacker than the black bars on Blu-ray discs.
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post #1539 of 8536 Old 11-11-2009, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by grunt11 View Post

Not sure if you've considered it but in my apartment I hung black curtains all around the room. They wouldn't let me attach anything to the walls so I built a frame of 2x2s around the room (being buttressed by the walls and corners 2x2s were sufficient). Then I got cheap curtains and rods from Lowe's and Walmart and make a homemade valance to cover the gap between the curtains and ceiling. The whole project cost me about $150 (mostly curtain cost), took an afternoon (longer if you include the shopping) and gave me 360 degree blackout in a 16x12 viewing area. And when I didn't want it dark I just opened the curtains so that they still hit the 2x2s

Here's a couple links to how it looked. Made a huge difference with my HDTV so I can't imaging how much it might help a projector and screen.

http://www.axiomaudio.com/boards/ubb...rue#Post158274

http://www.axiomaudio.com/boards/ubb...rue#Post219121

FYI I liked it so much I'm having custom curtains made for my new living room home theater.

Cheers,
Dean

I did a similar type project with 1" x 2'' lumber for wood frames to block windows and then covering the walls with black-out felt and black velvet. I drilled into the walls, ceiling and outside wall to pull Sat. cable. No problem. It was dead black.

The problem came a few years ago when the GF moved in and after a few months wanted to see the outside word, sun light, have house plants, etc.
I took it down and got out of the HT area for a few years. Two weeks ago, the GF asked if we could have an HT again but with the possibility of having windows. So I am now working on a GF friendly theater.

Steve
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post #1540 of 8536 Old 11-11-2009, 10:26 PM
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FYI I liked it so much I'm having custom curtains made for my new living room home theater.
*******
Looked at you pix and that is similar to what I had. Ain't gonna fly this time around. I have flipped the HT 180 degrees to project into what was the dinning area. It isn't great. especially the acoustics but work with what you have, I guess. :>) Trying different things so a work in progress.

Steve
LL
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post #1541 of 8536 Old 11-11-2009, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 501transpo View Post

FYI I liked it so much I'm having custom curtains made for my new living room home theater.
*******
Looked at you pix and that is similar to what I had. Ain't gonna fly this time around. I have flipped the HT 180 degrees to project into what was the dinning area. It isn't great. especially the acoustics but work with what you have, I guess. :>) Trying different things so a work in progress.

Steve

Looks like a nice setup for the space you have. I gotta say the best audio/HT upgrade I ever made was buying a house earlier this year. Not being married doesn't suck either.

Dean

"Tact is just not saying true stuff" Cordelia Chase.
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post #1542 of 8536 Old 11-11-2009, 11:03 PM
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okay thanks, no confusion anymore.

HT Set Up: Epson 8350, Sony Strd G-920, JBL 7.1 Venue series speakers, JBL Sub12 subwoofer, Harmony One remote, Xbox 360, PS3, Sony BDP S350, Toshiba HDA2, Directv HR-24 DVR.
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post #1543 of 8536 Old 11-11-2009, 11:09 PM
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I asked this in the CIH forum, but thought would ask here also.

Was going to order a 120" diagonal 2.35:1 BW Carada screen. Want to make sure my seating distance of 10' is okay and not too close before I order it. That is 2.68H, so it falls within the 2H and 4H distance, but I guess short of the ideal(?) 3H. I also projected the image on wall and I liked it (I saw almost the entire Iron man and it was ver immersive), but it is on a dark wall and I not sure if a brighter screen would change that. My other option is a smaller 112" diagonal 2.35 screen, which would give me a 2.93H.

The room is a light controlled room with very dark walls, ceiling, carpet. Dimension of the room 14' long x 11' wide x 8' high. Throw distance is about 12' 8". This makes it close to the max zoom, I am not sure if that is a bad idea since I remember reading remarks that lens are not idea in their extreme positions. My other reason for going with the bigger screen is it makes it easier to make the center of the lens fall within the screen area (so I can use the auto zoom function) with out making the screen too high or the PJ too low.

Thanks for any input.
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post #1544 of 8536 Old 11-11-2009, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grunt11 View Post

Looks like a nice setup for the space you have. I gotta say the best audio/HT upgrade I ever made was buying a house earlier this year. Not being married doesn't suck either.

Dean

Having had several models of houses and wives; I'll live with limited space for now. :>)

Steve
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post #1545 of 8536 Old 11-12-2009, 12:04 AM
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Is it bad to fine tune focus by twisting the lens?
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post #1546 of 8536 Old 11-12-2009, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunil View Post

I asked this in the CIH forum, but thought would ask here also.

Was going to order a 120" diagonal 2.35:1 BW Carada screen. Want to make sure my seating distance of 10' is okay and not too close before I order it. That is 2.68H, so it falls within the 2H and 4H distance, but I guess short of the ideal(?) 3H. I also projected the image on wall and I liked it (I saw almost the entire Iron man and it was ver immersive), but it is on a dark wall and I not sure if a brighter screen would change that. My other option is a smaller 112" diagonal 2.35 screen, which would give me a 2.93H.

The room is a light controlled room with very dark walls, ceiling, carpet. Dimension of the room 14' long x 11' wide x 8' high. Throw distance is about 12' 8". This makes it close to the max zoom, I am not sure if that is a bad idea since I remember reading remarks that lens are not idea in their extreme positions. My other reason for going with the bigger screen is it makes it easier to make the center of the lens fall within the screen area (so I can use the auto zoom function) with out making the screen too high or the PJ too low.

Thanks for any input.

Don't forget that Carada will make custom size screens and charge for the next standard size up. So for example, if the 120" screen is too large, they can make you a 115" screen for the price of a 120", without having to go down to the 112".
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post #1547 of 8536 Old 11-12-2009, 07:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hosdog View Post

Cine4home measured the AX200 at 620 lumens in cinema1 mode - and they measured the AE4000 at 680 Lumens in cinema1. So using their measurement tools for both -they appears to be fairly similar. An additional note -they measured native contrast at 1200:1 on the AX200 and 3000:1 on the AE4000.

Hi-

This is very useful. Thanks. Do you happen to know if both of those were on "normal" lamp setting?

By the way, I look at 620 versus 680 as a significant increase in light output. That said, it is hard to believe the calibrated AE4000 is brighter than a calibrate AX200. (I still appreciate you pulling that info for me.)
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post #1548 of 8536 Old 11-12-2009, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Whitefield View Post

John, are you sure you're using V-AREA POSITION in the LENS MEMORY menu (not V-POSITION in the POSITION menu)?

Sitting here in my office, now I'm not sure. 85% sure, I guess. I'll check again tonight; thanks.

Quote:


You should try lowering the projector 4-6" if possible, that's what I did. You see, there are some advantages to being short. Although you don't look all that tall on the Daily Show...

No, I don't believe that incarnation of me is that tall. =)

It's a basement, the mount is fixed; it's Good Enough as it is. I don't really have a way to move it.

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I don't think it's fair to blame the projector--it's pretty amazing it does the zoom trick at all. But it really has to be at the level of the screen to pull it off.

I don't blame the projector so much as I blame the reviewers... not one review I've seen talking about this (admittedly, cool) auto-zoom feature has mentioned this limitation (in that you need to have your projector at least as low as the edge of your screen for it to effectively work).

In fact, in the manual, they explicitly say that you can position the projector up to 100% of the screen size off center.

Had I know of this limitation, I'd still have bought the projector. I think the zoom feature, even without it being automatic, is a killer feature. Being able to fill an entire 2.4:1 screen is a lot more impressive than not.
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post #1549 of 8536 Old 11-12-2009, 07:35 AM
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I have the 3000 and use a Chief mount with the specific mounting plate. I didn't like the universal mount, was difficult to get to fit well due to the geometry of the mounting holes. I couldn't use the security cable with the universal mount either, at least the way I tried to fit on the mount. The mounting plate fits perfectly - I guess was somewhat anal about the fit.
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post #1550 of 8536 Old 11-12-2009, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnstewart View Post

I don't blame the projector so much as I blame the reviewers... not one review I've seen talking about this (admittedly, cool) auto-zoom feature has mentioned this limitation (in that you need to have your projector at least as low as the edge of your screen for it to effectively work).

In fact, in the manual, they explicitly say that you can position the projector up to 100% of the screen size off center.

Had I know of this limitation, I'd still have bought the projector. I think the zoom feature, even without it being automatic, is a killer feature. Being able to fill an entire 2.4:1 screen is a lot more impressive than not.

How far is the offset between the projector lens and the screen top edge? Check out my post #1253 in this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post17484472

In that example, a 10" offset will result in the 2.40 image needing ~3.5" of physical vertical shift. If your throw distance is 16', then you just need to tilt the projector ~1 deg to compensate. For that small amount, I wouldn't worry about keystoning.
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post #1551 of 8536 Old 11-12-2009, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnstewart View Post

...I don't blame the projector so much as I blame the reviewers... not one review I've seen talking about this (admittedly, cool) auto-zoom feature has mentioned this limitation (in that you need to have your projector at least as low as the edge of your screen for it to effectively work)...

Can someone tell me specifically how critical this alignment needs to be? Does the center of the pj lens need to be at the same height as the top of screen's viewing area (assuming a ceiling mount)? Is there any wiggle room here -- that is, can the lens center be an inch or two above the screen top?

edit: I think ilsiu's post cleared this up. It seems like the center of the lens does need be at the same height as the top of the screen, unless I am misunderstanding something.
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post #1552 of 8536 Old 11-12-2009, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunil View Post

I asked this in the CIH forum, but thought would ask here also.

Was going to order a 120" diagonal 2.35:1 BW Carada screen. Want to make sure my seating distance of 10' is okay and not too close before I order it. That is 2.68H, so it falls within the 2H and 4H distance, but I guess short of the ideal(?) 3H. I also projected the image on wall and I liked it (I saw almost the entire Iron man and it was ver immersive), but it is on a dark wall and I not sure if a brighter screen would change that. My other option is a smaller 112" diagonal 2.35 screen, which would give me a 2.93H.

The room is a light controlled room with very dark walls, ceiling, carpet. Dimension of the room 14' long x 11' wide x 8' high. Throw distance is about 12' 8". This makes it close to the max zoom, I am not sure if that is a bad idea since I remember reading remarks that lens are not idea in their extreme positions. My other reason for going with the bigger screen is it makes it easier to make the center of the lens fall within the screen area (so I can use the auto zoom function) with out making the screen too high or the PJ too low.

Thanks for any input.

I don't have a 4000 (just drooling for now while I wait for my AX100's bulb to die), but thought I'd comment on your screen question.

Personally, I think you should go with the 120" screen. Not for scope, but for 16x9 content. I have a 110" wide 2.35 screen, I really wish I had gone with a 120" wide screen. I had the room and height, but was afraid it was going to be too big. It wouldn't be and I'm sitting at 10' too.

Good luck, I'm sure you'll end up loving whatever you get.
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post #1553 of 8536 Old 11-12-2009, 09:00 AM
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I too had the problem of trying to get the proper settings saved for 16:9 and cinescope images, only to have the image shift higher than my screen--obviously not acceptable. (I am going to try to angle the projector down a little more, so its vertical adjustment is within the screen area, and then try the aforementioned set-up from a few pages ago...)

However, I don't think I have seen anyone mention using the aspect setting. I set the function button to "aspect." Then, using that, I can flip between the 2 different widescreen ratios (16:9 and S16:9 which is, I believe the right setting for cinescope and widescreen respectively).

It isn't perfect, but is what I was doing on the AE3000 to good effect.

What is it that I am missing out on my doing this over the lens memory settings?
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post #1554 of 8536 Old 11-12-2009, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finny100 View Post

I too had the problem of trying to get the proper settings saved for 16:9 and cinescope images, only to have the image shift higher than my screen--obviously not acceptable. (I am going to try to angle the projector down a little more, so its vertical adjustment is within the screen area, and then try the aforementioned set-up from a few pages ago...)

However, I don't think I have seen anyone mention using the aspect setting. I set the function button to "aspect." Then, using that, I can flip between the 2 different widescreen ratios (16:9 and S16:9 which is, I believe the right setting for cinescope and widescreen respectively).

It isn't perfect, but is what I was doing on the AE3000 to good effect.

What is it that I am missing out on my doing this over the lens memory settings?

What you're doing is the shrink method of CIH. With this method, you zoom to projector to fit the width of your 2.35 screen and scope movies will fill the entire screen. When you switch to 16x9 material, the projector will scale down the 1920x1080 image to 1440x810 pixels; the image is window boxed so you don't need to adjust any lens settings. The advantage of this method is that you maintain same brightness between 16x9 and scope and may be quicker to execute (with a macro).

The downside is you're losing picture detail by downscaling, but that may or may not be noticeable depending on your seating distance. Also, you give up some brightness vs 16x9 using the entire panel.
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post #1555 of 8536 Old 11-12-2009, 09:52 AM
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Hello,
I don't have a lot of clearance between my projector and the wall the shelf it sits on is mounted to. I was planning on using some right angle connectors for the power and HDMI cords.

For instance here is a website with right angle power cords:
http://www.accessories4less.com/make...r-Cords/1.html

What do I need to worry about to make sure an aftermarket power cord will function correctly with the projector?

Thanks
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post #1556 of 8536 Old 11-12-2009, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loganross View Post

The Sony HW-15 is a far sharper projector from corner to corner regardless of zoom position. The BenQ W6000 is also consistent but it is impossible to tell whether the sharpness is artificially imposed or not. My opinion is that the Sony has one of the best lenses, if not the best, of any projector in this price range.

The Panasonic has a good lens. There is very little vignetting or barreling or pin-cushioning even at widest zoom position. Those are important traits. However, it is easy enough to see that the when you focus the lens using the center test pattern (a difficult task), it becomes less sharp as you move away from the center. It is simply not visible with video material but is if for example you use an HTPC and can show your computer desktop on screen.

But how much will sharpness be improved by using the narrower zoom position? I'm trying to decide which way I will have to orient my room. Would like to have this decided before I purchase.
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post #1557 of 8536 Old 11-12-2009, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tweakophyte View Post

Hi-

This is very useful. Thanks. Do you happen to know if both of those were on "normal" lamp setting?

By the way, I look at 620 versus 680 as a significant increase in light output. That said, it is hard to believe the calibrated AE4000 is brighter than a calibrate AX200. (I still appreciate you pulling that info for me.)


yes both were measured in full lamp power. Other sites have quoted lower outputs -- but similar ratio. Example Projector central had roughly 525 on the AX200 in cin1 - and for the AE4000 had 545. So i think its fair to say they are very similar in brightness in calibrated mode- with the AE4000 having a slight edge......The AX200- while bright -- is not super bright in calibrated modes...
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post #1558 of 8536 Old 11-12-2009, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by SpinsterSXRD
so you are saying that a black electronic mask will cover the upper and lower area that runs off the 2.35:1 image and block that light out part?

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Originally Posted by Bob Whitefield View Post

Yes. Why the confusion? It just forces that part of the LCD to be as black as possible, which is much blacker than the black bars on Blu-ray discs.

It is only as black as the projectors ability to display black, the term "blanking" is misleading. It should say digital blanking...
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post #1559 of 8536 Old 11-12-2009, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by hooraysimpsons View Post

Hello,
I don't have a lot of clearance between my projector and the wall the shelf it sits on is mounted to. I was planning on using some right angle connectors for the power and HDMI cords.

For instance here is a website with right angle power cords:
http://www.accessories4less.com/make...r-Cords/1.html

What do I need to worry about to make sure an aftermarket power cord will function correctly with the projector?

That power cord will work fine. The cord supplied with the AE4000 has ferrite cores on it to prevent interference, but that's probably not necessary.

But--if you have so little clearance at the back of the projector that you need right-angle cords, then you won't have enough ventilation. The AE4000 has to pull cool air in from the back. The manual actually recommends 50cm (20") open space behind it.

20" is overkill, but unless you have some kind of fan supplying cool air towards the back, your projector may have a short life if you have it flush against a wall.
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post #1560 of 8536 Old 11-12-2009, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by hooraysimpsons View Post

Hello,
I don't have a lot of clearance between my projector and the wall the shelf it sits on is mounted to. I was planning on using some right angle connectors for the power and HDMI cords.

For instance here is a website with right angle power cords:
http://www.accessories4less.com/make...r-Cords/1.html

What do I need to worry about to make sure an aftermarket power cord will function correctly with the projector?

Thanks

I was planning the same thing! To get a right angle HDMI and a right angle power cord to place the projector on a shelf on my back wall to get the most distance for the largest screen size I can have

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