Optoma HD66 - First 3D home theatre/gaming projector - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 1341 Old 02-20-2010, 05:42 PM
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On the glasses, in addition to Xpand, Crystal Eyes, and the Chinese company I mentioned before, I just found that Bit Cauldron is making a pair as well. Again, not yet available. And Xpand is still out of stock. So everybody makes them and nobody sells them
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post #272 of 1341 Old 02-20-2010, 06:19 PM
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I don't know if it has been posted in this thread yet but I found a good link with information about up coming 3D Titles and it has some good general information about 3D Blu-Ray .
http://www.ropeofsilicon.com/article...titles-for-may
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post #273 of 1341 Old 02-21-2010, 07:26 AM
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I want an 80inch diag 16x9 image, from www [dot]projectorcentral.com/Optoma-HD66-projection-calculator-pro[dot]htm it seems that both throw and diag are in the red and projector must be 9'11" from the screen. Does this mean this would be a bad projector for an 80" screen? Does the 9'11" have to be exactly that, there is a can light at this postion, so I would either need to move the can, be 6" closer, or 6" back form this spot, or have a different screen size.
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post #274 of 1341 Old 02-21-2010, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by defiancecp View Post

Oo!! Actually, I'd never heard of powerstrip until I read about it in this thread. NEAT FACT: I don't know if this applies to the HD66, but I bet it does; everything else so far has been pretty much the same - but on the pro350w, 1280x800 120hz works fine, it's just not available by default; you have to use powerstrip to force it. LIke 720p/120, it forces the dlp-link setting on, but it's hope that full 1280x800 may work fine for 3d gaming on the pc. Now if only there was a way to force dlp-link off at 120hz, I'd just leave it at this setting

So after reading more about this, if a 120hz capable DLP projector had a way to force dlp-link off so you could run 120hz with 2D, then that would increase the smoothness of the signal in a similar way to what a 120Hz LCD computer monitor can.

Does that sound at least fairly accurate? XD

Thanks again.
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post #275 of 1341 Old 02-21-2010, 12:30 PM
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Yeah, but another thing to think about is how the 120hz is accomplished. In a "normal" DLP application, the dmd chip actually operates at twice the refresh and half the resolution in a checkerboard fashion. So every 120th of a second it does half the pixels, the "wobulates" to the other half the next 120th. So what the 120hz DLP 3d system is actually doing (if I understand correctly) is simply replacing the second half of the normal frame pixels with the second frame, then synching the glasses so each eye sees one half of the "wobules" (lol). so, running 120hz 2d is in a way comparable to 120hz interlaced (but interlaced in a more intelligent fashion that doesn't degrade apparent resolution as badly as "normal" interlacing.

--- If I understand it all correctly
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post #276 of 1341 Old 02-21-2010, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by defiancecp View Post

Yeah, but another thing to think about is how the 120hz is accomplished. In a "normal" DLP application, the dmd chip actually operates at twice the refresh and half the resolution in a checkerboard fashion. So every 120th of a second it does half the pixels, the "wobulates" to the other half the next 120th. So what the 120hz DLP 3d system is actually doing (if I understand correctly) is simply replacing the second half of the normal frame pixels with the second frame, then synching the glasses so each eye sees one half of the "wobules" (lol). so, running 120hz 2d is in a way comparable to 120hz interlaced (but interlaced in a more intelligent fashion that doesn't degrade apparent resolution as badly as "normal" interlacing.

--- If I understand it all correctly


Hmm...I see (well, sort of!)

Much appreciated.
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post #277 of 1341 Old 02-21-2010, 02:57 PM
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I am able to get 120hz stable now at 720p. Though I am getting signal loss. I am also finding that it is interfering with my OTA HD TV Tuner signal strength when I do that. Do it definitely must be signal loss.

I do have one question for those able to send out 120hz. When I send it out at 120, the picture seems almost faded in a way and definitely not at bright at 60hz is. I checked and it has the same settings under my User1 settings.

Does anyone know if this is caused by the signal loss of strength or is it a normal occurrence when sending out a higher frequency?

I am sending it over about 20' through 24AWG hdmi cable extender (male to female) and a 6' hdmi cable with grommets on each end of the 6' one. I don't think my extender is 1.3 if that matters. Also my HD2600pro card uses a DVI to HDMI adapter. From what I remember, the 1.3 and such only dealt with the sound and wouldn't affect the video.

I also noticed that 1080p @60hz looks a little faded as well.

Only thing that confuses me is that I might expect this with analog signal, but not a digital, unless again it is on the projector end.

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post #278 of 1341 Old 02-21-2010, 05:36 PM
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Just a quick question if anyone can answer, HD66 3D is supporting page flipping or checkerboard?
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post #279 of 1341 Old 02-21-2010, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjmarchini View Post

I am able to get 120hz stable now at 720p. Though I am getting signal loss. I am also finding that it is interfering with my OTA HD TV Tuner signal strength when I do that. Do it definitely must be signal loss.

I do have one question for those able to send out 120hz. When I send it out at 120, the picture seems almost faded in a way and definitely not at bright at 60hz is. I checked and it has the same settings under my User1 settings.

Does anyone know if this is caused by the signal loss of strength or is it a normal occurrence when sending out a higher frequency?

I am sending it over about 20' through 24AWG hdmi cable extender (male to female) and a 6' hdmi cable with grommets on each end of the 6' one. I don't think my extender is 1.3 if that matters. Also my HD2600pro card uses a DVI to HDMI adapter. From what I remember, the 1.3 and such only dealt with the sound and wouldn't affect the video.

I also noticed that 1080p @60hz looks a little faded as well.

Only thing that confuses me is that I might expect this with analog signal, but not a digital, unless again it is on the projector end.




The "fading" you see at 120hz is actually the washout caused by the DLP-Link signal. Try this - set it to 60hz, and it looks fine, right? Now go into the projector menu and "turn on" 3d (which really just enables the DLP Link). Note that it now looks faded like it did at 120hz.

The reason is that DLP link works by some sort of light pulse in between the wobbled frames. So, if you're not watching with glasses, your eye sees a rapid succession of part of the frame, a white screen, and the other part of the frame. Your eye averages it out and you see a washout. Your 120hz signal is getting through fine, but the projector forcing on DLP link causes the fading.

As for checkerboard vs page flipping, it should support both. It displays page flipping by wobulating left frame then right frame, so a 120hz page sequential stream is, in the end, exactly the same as a 60hz checkerboard stream.

Obviously I haven't tested that (though the day xpand starts selling x102's again, I'll be testing both methods! well, minus shipping time. You know what I mean.)
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post #280 of 1341 Old 02-22-2010, 05:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by defiancecp View Post

The "fading" you see at 120hz is actually the washout caused by the DLP-Link signal. Try this - set it to 60hz, and it looks fine, right? Now go into the projector menu and "turn on" 3d (which really just enables the DLP Link). Note that it now looks faded like it did at 120hz.

The reason is that DLP link works by some sort of light pulse in between the wobbled frames. So, if you're not watching with glasses, your eye sees a rapid succession of part of the frame, a white screen, and the other part of the frame. Your eye averages it out and you see a washout. Your 120hz signal is getting through fine, but the projector forcing on DLP link causes the fading.

As for checkerboard vs page flipping, it should support both. It displays page flipping by wobulating left frame then right frame, so a 120hz page sequential stream is, in the end, exactly the same as a 60hz checkerboard stream.

Obviously I haven't tested that (though the day xpand starts selling x102's again, I'll be testing both methods! well, minus shipping time. You know what I mean.)

Is there a way to disable 3D under 120hz? It seems locked on 3D when I send a 120hz 720p signal out. I tried to adjust the setting to compensate, but the blacks are worse than my epson home 20 LCD from years ago.

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post #281 of 1341 Old 02-22-2010, 07:34 AM
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Having something strange happen to me. I just uppgraded to the Pioneer 320 blu-ray player- hooked it up and tried out several disks. Each time you go to the top menu (and also during the intial start-up screens) the signal gets lost to the projector but then reconnects. Therefore, the projector is searching for the HDMI signal several times during each movie- quite annoying. Any suggestions?
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post #282 of 1341 Old 02-22-2010, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjmarchini View Post

Is there a way to disable 3D under 120hz? It seems locked on 3D when I send a 120hz 720p signal out. I tried to adjust the setting to compensate, but the blacks are worse than my epson home 20 LCD from years ago.

Not that I can find - for some reason, Optoma decided to hard-code 3d on at 120hz in the firmware. That's the one real complaint I personally have: EDID not including all display modes that work (ie 1280x800@120hz), scaling issues in some resolutions (some refresh rates, such as 59h, at 1280x720), reporting as ew563 to PCs, forcing 3d on at 120hz.... I'm still very happy with it overall, but it could be much better with a bit more polish on their firmware.
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post #283 of 1341 Old 02-22-2010, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjyap View Post

Just a quick question if anyone can answer, HD66 3D is supporting page flipping or checkerboard?

The HD66 does page flipping.
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post #284 of 1341 Old 02-22-2010, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by defiancecp View Post

Not that I can find - for some reason, Optoma decided to hard-code 3d on at 120hz in the firmware. That's the one real complaint I personally have: EDID not including all display modes that work (ie 1280x800@120hz), scaling issues in some resolutions (some refresh rates, such as 59h, at 1280x720), reporting as ew563 to PCs, forcing 3d on at 120hz.... I'm still very happy with it overall, but it could be much better with a bit more polish on their firmware.

I have religated myself to 60hz. One thing to note for others is that I have noticed RBE on this projector. I never saw it once with my Acer, but that had a 7 segment color wheel. This is a 5 segment, so don't assume you wont see it when going to it.

I am learning to live with it. Funny thing is though that I don't notice it at 120hz with the 3D on. Not sure if it is the 3D that cancels it out, the 120hz. It could be the lack of near true blacks on the 3D that are doing it. My understanding is that it is most prevalent on high contrast such as white text on a black background.

It could also be because this projector is sooo much brighter than my old one which was 1000 lumens when new. I think this is brighter under the dimmest setting than my acer was at the highest.

Thing is that it is only on certain movies and certain scenes. Seems like that I don't notice it on higher quality films. Worste that I have seen was on Honey I married an Axe Murder on netflix on demand. Haven't noticed it on bluray.

So who knows what it is.

I can't believe that I am going to say I liked my Acer PH530 better, but in some ways I really miss it. There are definitely pluses with this. Definitely brighter. It seems to have a much better scaler as well... not that I plan on using the scaler very much. Also has more control over the picture itself. Being able to adjust not only the RGB but also the cyan, magenta and yellow and even the bias is great.

It is definitely quieter. I do like the features overall better.

I am just hoping they fix the link thing that was mentioned with a firmware update. I am sending a request in to ask. Will see what kind of response I get.

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post #285 of 1341 Old 02-23-2010, 01:47 PM
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hey guys
I want to buy a 720P projector, dont care about the 3D. Is this a good projector?
I have an Epson S3, very old, but image is great, it is a 800x600, but it looks great anyway. Is there a great difference with a 720P?
I mean as great as tube TVs and HDTVs difference?
I want the projector for movie watching. around 700$. HDMI connection.
Thanks
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post #286 of 1341 Old 02-23-2010, 03:25 PM
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it kills me that I will need to replace my projector some day because it is not a 3d unit
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post #287 of 1341 Old 02-23-2010, 03:51 PM
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it kills me that i will need to replace my projector some day because it is not a color vhf uhf cable progressive flat hd full-hd 3d unit

onoes!
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post #288 of 1341 Old 02-23-2010, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Evolvo View Post

Defi, why are you so crazy and mad about the 3D on your HD 66. I'm just telling people to simply wait until 3D has a standard and there are better 3D capable projectors out there...

So arguing aside, I'm not sure why no one has posted the news straight out of Sony's mouth:

http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-10450842-1.html
"[SCEA's Director of Hardware Marketing John] Koller also notes, however, that "all PS3 units that exist in homes and markets will be able to play 3D stereoscopic games as well as 3D BD movies through separate firmware upgrades--something that other platforms are unable to do." A second firmware update will handle 3D Blu-ray, although the precise details on the PS3's 3D Blu-ray capabilities are still sketchy."

More confirmation from Engadget:
http://www.engadget.com/2010/02/10/p...e-this-summer/
"Get your active shutter glasses ready: your PS3 is going to go 3D this Summer. In conjunction with the release of its 3D BRAVIA LCD sets, Sony is planning to release updates to turn the PS3 both into a stereoscopic 3D gaming platform, in addition to a 3D Blu-ray compatible movie player. Sure, we knew Sony was planning to give us 3D sometime this year, but now that we've got a summer time frame we can plan our wardrobe decisions according -- jean cut-offs, here we come! "

Thanks for all the helpful first-hand reviews...keep 'em coming!
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post #289 of 1341 Old 02-23-2010, 08:46 PM
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Technically, it will be HDMI 1.4, sans ethernet and 4k resolution support. Luckily, 1.4 isn't an all-or-nothing spec, which means that some 1.3 devices can be upgraded to support some 1.4 features.

HDMI 1.4 can be carried over the same cable that supports HDMI 1.3- sans HDMI ethernet, which means that theoretically 1.4 can be done from the same pins as 1.3.

PS3 simply has to be upgraded to support 3D frame-packing at 1080p24 and 720p60 to drive 3D video on an HDMI 1.4-compliant display
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post #290 of 1341 Old 02-24-2010, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by rch34 View Post

Technically, it will be HDMI 1.4, sans ethernet and 4k resolution support. Luckily, 1.4 isn't an all-or-nothing spec, which means that some 1.3 devices can be upgraded to support some 1.4 features.

HDMI 1.4 can be carried over the same cable that supports HDMI 1.3- sans HDMI ethernet, which means that theoretically 1.4 can be done from the same pins as 1.3.

PS3 simply has to be upgraded to support 3D frame-packing at 1080p24 and 720p60 to drive 3D video on an HDMI 1.4-compliant display

Last I checked, 4K support is not being considered for Bluray, is it? I would think a 30gb movie at present encoding methods would take about 120gb unless you really over eneoded it.

I guess it is mostly for higher end projectors. We all know they will eventually release "affordable" 4K displays to give us all a reason to upgrade. Whatever happened to upgrading only because your old set broke?

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post #291 of 1341 Old 02-24-2010, 10:33 AM
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My Optoma HD66 arrived today!

I will use the settings other users have posted for brightness, contrast, etc., but one big question remains...

How high off the floor should I position this thing? I will be using a table top set up since the ceilings in our building are 2 stories high, ceiling mount is not an option.

I am using a Favi 100" screen that stands on the floor, viewing area is 27" from the bottom of the screen.

I need to buy some sort of shelf/entertainment center/stand for the projector, cable box, dvd player, etc. and want to know what height to shoot for since ceiling mount is out of the question.

Thanks in advance!
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post #292 of 1341 Old 02-24-2010, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by savage animal View Post

My Optoma HD66 arrived today!

I will use the settings other users have posted for brightness, contrast, etc., but one big question remains...

How high off the floor should I position this thing? I will be using a table top set up since the ceilings in our building are 2 stories high, ceiling mount is not an option.

I am using a Favi 100" screen that stands on the floor, viewing area is 27" from the bottom of the screen.

I need to buy some sort of shelf/entertainment center/stand for the projector, cable box, dvd player, etc. and want to know what height to shoot for since ceiling mount is out of the question.



for me i watch regular tv on my flat screen and have the screen something about 1inch in front of the tv so when its down it does not interfere with the tv. and i have a 35 foot hdmi to the left of my tv down on the ground and straight to my amp.

i dont know if i helped you or not. oh well good luck
Thanks in advance!

if i were you id use a table like one of these http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/00095036 and i would use this calculator to see how much of an offset you need, and just reverse it for the floor. http://www.optoma.ca/distancecalculator.asp (i assume it will work.)
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post #293 of 1341 Old 02-24-2010, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by dajaga007 View Post

if i were you id use a table like one of these http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/00095036 and i would use this calculator to see how much of an offset you need, and just reverse it for the floor. http://www.optoma.ca/distancecalculator.asp (i assume it will work.)

I was thinking the same about the offset, if I could set this as the distance from the floor as opposed to ceiling, but wouldn't the projector have to be upside down for the lens angle to work this way? I assume "offset" is a setting I will come to on the menu when making aspect ratio adjustments, etc?

Is a minimum approximate or precise projector height not necessary to center on the screen?

Thanks guys, I'm anxious to get this thing up and running!
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post #294 of 1341 Old 02-24-2010, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by savage animal View Post

I was thinking the same about the offset, if I could set this as the distance from the floor as opposed to ceiling, but wouldn't the projector have to be upside down for the lens angle to work this way? I assume "offset" is a setting I will come to on the menu when making aspect ratio adjustments, etc?

Is a minimum approximate or precise projector height not necessary to center on the screen?

Thanks guys, I'm anxious to get this thing up and running!

there is a setting where you can flip the picture upside down, or right side up.
so when its on the ceiling it is upside down and on the floor it is right side up.

what i did before i had my projector mounted on the ceiling i got washable black marker and made two small marks on the floor so if it ever moved i would know where to make it square again, and inside the cabinet, i got 8 L brackets and screwed them in to the table so that i can lift it out but when its inside it will not move. very handy when you got little ones or animals running around.

really if you make sure everything is square and leveled and you should not have any problems
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post #295 of 1341 Old 02-24-2010, 12:52 PM
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Thanks dajaga007, sounds like I'll be setting it on a table, upside down with picture flipped?

as far as squaring the picture, do you just use whatever height table ya got and move it around till it's centered on your screen at the distance stated on the calculator?

I'll break out the manual to see what's up with this offset setting.

Thanks!
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post #296 of 1341 Old 02-24-2010, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by savage animal View Post

Thanks dajaga007, sounds like I'll be setting it on a table, upside down with picture flipped?

as far as squaring the picture, do you just use whatever height table ya got and move it around till it's centered on your screen at the distance stated on the calculator?

I'll break out the manual to see what's up with this offset setting.

Thanks!

im not too experienced with projectors, but from what i learnt from my epson home10+ the more precise everything is the easier it is to make the picture fit on the screen,
the way i figure the offset works, is you measure from the lens up, so if the off set is 5 inches than your screne has to be 5 inches higher than your lens if your from the ground, if you from the ceiling it has to be 5 inches lower.

if your picture is kinda wide at either the top/bottom there should be a key stone that can help make the opposite side square out.

should post some pics when you get it set up.

im getting mine tommorow afternoon, i probably wont have time to set it up till saturaday
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post #297 of 1341 Old 02-24-2010, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dajaga007 View Post

there is a setting where you can flip the picture upside down, or right side up.
so when its on the ceiling it is upside down and on the floor it is right side up.

what i did before i had my projector mounted on the ceiling i got washable black marker and made two small marks on the floor so if it ever moved i would know where to make it square again, and inside the cabinet, i got 8 L brackets and screwed them in to the table so that i can lift it out but when its inside it will not move. very handy when you got little ones or animals running around.

really if you make sure everything is square and leveled and you should not have any problems

Yes, you would need to invert the projector once it goes above the screen. There isn't a setting as it is the physical angle of the lense.

I think my offset was around 9" for a 96" 16:9.

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post #298 of 1341 Old 02-24-2010, 05:42 PM
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Kinda looks like my HD70
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post #299 of 1341 Old 02-25-2010, 06:44 AM
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Hey guys. I got this a couple weeks ago. Its my first proj and I gotta say I can't believe I waited this long!!! I made myself a 110' screen outta BOC and adjusted the PJ settings based on input given in this thread. It looks great.

I do have one question though. When I set the PS3 to output 24p the video becomes "jittery" during movement. I tested it out on "Cars" and on "Casino Royale" and they both do it. It doesn't do it when I turn the 24p option off on the PS3. Is this normal? Doesn't this projector do 24p or am I'm wrong?
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post #300 of 1341 Old 02-25-2010, 07:46 AM
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got it set up last night!

Shooting it at a gold painted wall while I await my Favi 100" floor standing screen, looks great even on a painted wall! I used the settings another poster outlined on Page 3 or so (THANK YOU!).

I currently have the PJ mounted on a table behind the couch at head level, in front of the couch might be better so that heads don't get in the way, more people can sit, or 2 can get closer together on the couch, but I fear it getting spilled on if sitting on or around the coffee table.

We'll see how the height of the table I am using for now works with the screen, shooting a bit high for it I'm afraid, using the recommended 11'3" - 12'3" distance from screen to projector. Can the lens be tilted up and down to shoot slightly lower, or am I going to need to seek out just the right height of table?

Camera broken, cannot post pics until I get a cord for my phone that will connect to pc.

Thanks guys!
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