Optoma HD66 - First 3D home theatre/gaming projector - Page 45 - AVS Forum
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post #1321 of 1341 Old 12-19-2012, 01:00 PM
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Will this item work instead of 3DXL convertor box (for 3D)? I am planning to use PS3 to play 3D
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2D-to-3D-Converter-for-DLP-porjector-Shutter-glasses-3D-Converter-Box-/271107482811
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post #1322 of 1341 Old 01-02-2013, 09:07 AM
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Finally got the chip in (slow plane from China). :-) It came with the thermal 'tape' but i opted for using the Arctic Silver 5. Initially with my unit, it didn't make full contact (you can tell when you pull it off... if it sticks to the controller board, then it's good. Mine didn't.). So I put a little more on and this time it was enough. Put it back together and it has been working fine for 3 days. Hopefully that will continue. No more dots ! :-)

Really, it wasn't hard. if you like to tinker with electronics, it's just a matter of unscrewing, unplugging, and putting it all back together. (And being careful not to break the color wheel). I can take one apart in less than 15 minutes now. Put back together in 15 too. :-)
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post #1323 of 1341 Old 01-02-2013, 09:07 AM
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Finally got the chip in (slow plane from China). :-) It came with the thermal 'tape' but i opted for using the Arctic Silver 5. Initially with my unit, it didn't make full contact (you can tell when you pull it off... if it sticks to the controller board, then it's good. Mine didn't.). So I put a little more on and this time it was enough. Put it back together and it has been working fine for 3 days. Hopefully that will continue. No more dots ! :-)

Really, it wasn't hard. if you like to tinker with electronics, it's just a matter of unscrewing, unplugging, and putting it all back together. (And being careful not to break the color wheel). I can take one apart in less than 15 minutes now. Put back together in 15 too. :-)
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post #1324 of 1341 Old 01-10-2013, 10:24 AM
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I see some folks replacing thermal pad and some folks replacing DMD chip. How do you determine what is needed?
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post #1325 of 1341 Old 02-10-2013, 11:40 AM
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I'm looking to get one of these myself are the ones being sold now on amazon affected by this same defect or have they released another revision of this projector?
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post #1326 of 1341 Old 02-16-2013, 11:35 AM
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BUMP I'm guessing the same still applies to all newer revisions of this projector?
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post #1327 of 1341 Old 02-27-2013, 05:25 AM
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My HD66 started exhibiting the dead pixel issue two weeks ago. As others have mentioned, it got progressively worse. I purchased the projector in August 2010. Obviously well out of warranty, but I figured I would give Optoma a call about it anyways. I was told by the customer service rep that Optoma now is authorized to replace the DMD chip for free even if out of warranty. Apparently they are trying to rectify the situation. I sent it off today and will let you know what I get back.
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post #1328 of 1341 Old 03-01-2013, 10:36 AM
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My bulb is currently at 1700hours. Is it just my imagination or is it time to replace it? The picture is quite dim.
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post #1329 of 1341 Old 03-09-2013, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stryfetew View Post

BUMP I'm guessing the same still applies to all newer revisions of this projector?

Same doubt here.

Also, if I buy it new, should I change the thermal pad for the Arctic asap just in case? Thanks.
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post #1330 of 1341 Old 03-14-2013, 12:34 PM
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First of all, thank you guys for info about DMD chip problem. I've disassembled my Optoma HD66, and as I expected after your comments, original thermal paste was a garbage. My projector is 3 years old with around 400h. I replaced paste with Arctic Silver, but I had to replace rubber washer (under a aluminum cooler) with piece of cardboard - washer was too thick and arctic paste could not reach surface of chip. So far, my projector works without any dead pixel. Thru case vents I could check cooler temperature, and it's around 30 C (room temperature - 20 C).
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post #1331 of 1341 Old 03-19-2013, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mirakaski View Post

My HD66 started exhibiting the dead pixel issue two weeks ago. As others have mentioned, it got progressively worse. I purchased the projector in August 2010. Obviously well out of warranty, but I figured I would give Optoma a call about it anyways. I was told by the customer service rep that Optoma now is authorized to replace the DMD chip for free even if out of warranty. Apparently they are trying to rectify the situation. I sent it off today and will let you know what I get back.


Apparently there is a 3 year window to repair these units. I purchased my unit on January 12, 2010. That puts my unit well out of the window but I explained my situation, that the unit was bad for several months, that I registered my unit through their site and should have been notified that there was a production issue and that they should go beyond the call of duty here to make me a satisfied customer. After a brief conversation with the manager I was approved for an RMA. Even though I already purchased a replacement projector (BenQ W1080ST) I am very pleased with Optoma and the end result! I will be sending my unit out ASAP and will update as soon as I get the unit back.

Brian

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post #1332 of 1341 Old 03-21-2013, 11:15 AM
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I have a situation and looking for help or advice.

I own an hd66 and it was working good, had it for a bit over 2 years until it died on me. apparently the power source and mainboard went bad so I was referred to Spectronix, www.justrepairs.com, to get it fixed. Shipped the unit to them, took them damn near two months to repair it. Got the projector back in time for Christmas because I brought my daughter a Wii U and wanted the projector back so she can have fun with it plus some 3d movies, now everything is back in working order.........except the HDMI port.... You know I was pissed. so I called Spectronix back, explained what happened, they took the unit back and offered to get it working since I had their 90 day warranty and from January to this day, my unit just been sitting there, im calling every week, checking the status to see whats going on, they claim they have to order a part, some sort of HDMI decoder chip, from overseas to fix my HDMI issue because it was not picking up any signal, but from January to the middle of this month and when i sent the unit back the first time, that too was a two month process?, Fed up, i just asked them to send my unit back and refund my money. My refund came before the unit because they almost lost it and I found a gt720 short throw projector on ebay for 140 bucks that just needed a DMD chip due to dead pixels. So I brought that and a new lamp because no telling whats the life on the current lamp and its a good thing because it came without a lamp but the unit works, powers up and recognizes a HDMI signal but got a few pixels but here is the kicker, my hd66 returns also and spectronix refunded me my money for parts and labor, assuming they were going to send my project back in the condition when i first sent it, bad parts and all, but to my surprise, they left the replacement parts inside so basically I got a semi refurbed hd66 thats working but no HDMI and my money back which went towards the ebay purchase.

What should I do? is there a way to restore my HDMI in my hd66 or can I take the DMD chip from my hd66 and swap it into the gt720? To be honest, I want to keep both because the gt720 I can use for family outdoor events or outdoor fun with the kids when we camp in our backyard and it will suck to have everything from HDMI to component/vga on the hd66 and I dont think ill get the full advantage of 3d from that either?

Need your help and advice guys.

I know this was a long read but thanks in advance.
-Thomas.
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post #1333 of 1341 Old 04-18-2013, 04:46 PM
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I posted an issue in the pioneer 1022 forum but I have come to the conclusion the issue lies somewhere with the hd66 or in between the two devices. I am using a 40ft Redmere high hdmi to connect my AVR to hd66. I keep getting no source found when trying to access my cable/sat signal. I cannot get any video inputed from my cable box via composite cable to output through my pioneer1022 to my projector via hdmi. I have went though every setting imaginable so I must be missing something. If I hook to hdmi from the receiver to a tv I get a signal and its up-converted. Any help or direction is greatly appreciated. I changed the upconvert to off but still nothing. I walked away for a few minutes and surprising it was playing then I switched the up-convert to a different setting and now still cant get anything. My pioneer 1022 menus screen projects just fine. I just can't get the original analog video out of my receiver to hd66. My PS3(hdmi) plays fine through the AVR to the hd66. I ran the video out of the receiver with a composite and I get a picture on the hd66, says "ndts" found or something along those lines. Thoughts?????
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post #1334 of 1341 Old 08-30-2013, 08:32 PM
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Hey fellas. Sorry I'm late to the party on this one (maybe too late?).
Anyway, I just for my hands on a new HD66. It seemed to be the most respected/affordable 720p projector out there right now.

So after messing with the settings for a few hours. I have not been about to find decent calibration settings. In fact, I enjoyed the picture of my 480p Infocus IN72 projector much more (it came calibrated from the factory and did not need any settings changed from default in my opinion. That projector is no longer working now.

All the recommendations/reviews I've read online for the HD66 say to set the brightness low (like ~33) and the contrast up to ~67. And to turn the brilliantcolor feature off, etc.
And I agree that the HD66 looks washed out on default settings. (I'm only using the HDMI input).

After trying the recommendations the first thought was "Much better", but then I come to realize quickly that the blacks are way too black! So anyone wearing a dark suit or clothes will look like they're wearing black nothingness, and dark night time scenes are hard to watch at all. The bright scenes can hurt the eyes a little because the sun/colors can be too bright, etc. BTW I'm projecting on white wall in the dark and this has never been a problem for me.

The solution is to turn up the brightness in dark scenes, and/or turn down the contrast/brightness in bright/colorful scenes. Kind of like an "auto iris" feature, but this projector doesn't have that.
I honestly can't find a "happy medium" on the settings and the nature of the scene or even changing the channel often makes me want to adjust the brightness/contrast settings yet again. I've played around with it for hours. This was never a problem with the IN72.
I know there is a more detailed 'color' sub-menu but I have not gone into that yet. I'm honestly not that picky about tint and hue and slight color offsets. I'm just having major problems with the gross calibration of the HD66.
Now I'm wondering if the HD66 is just not the projector for me, or if I'm simply incapable of calibrating the most basic of settings on my own.

Has anyone else experienced this, or is it just me? smile.gif
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post #1335 of 1341 Old 08-31-2013, 02:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedealman View Post

Hey fellas. Sorry I'm late to the party on this one (maybe too late?).
Anyway, I just for my hands on a new HD66. It seemed to be the most respected/affordable 720p projector out there right now.

So after messing with the settings for a few hours. I have not been about to find decent calibration settings. In fact, I enjoyed the picture of my 480p Infocus IN72 projector much more (it came calibrated from the factory and did not need any settings changed from default in my opinion. That projector is no longer working now.

All the recommendations/reviews I've read online for the HD66 say to set the brightness low (like ~33) and the contrast up to ~67. And to turn the brilliantcolor feature off, etc.
And I agree that the HD66 looks washed out on default settings. (I'm only using the HDMI input).

After trying the recommendations the first thought was "Much better", but then I come to realize quickly that the blacks are way too black! So anyone wearing a dark suit or clothes will look like they're wearing black nothingness, and dark night time scenes are hard to watch at all. The bright scenes can hurt the eyes a little because the sun/colors can be too bright, etc. BTW I'm projecting on white wall in the dark and this has never been a problem for me.

The solution is to turn up the brightness in dark scenes, and/or turn down the contrast/brightness in bright/colorful scenes. Kind of like an "auto iris" feature, but this projector doesn't have that.
I honestly can't find a "happy medium" on the settings and the nature of the scene or even changing the channel often makes me want to adjust the brightness/contrast settings yet again. I've played around with it for hours. This was never a problem with the IN72.
I know there is a more detailed 'color' sub-menu but I have not gone into that yet. I'm honestly not that picky about tint and hue and slight color offsets. I'm just having major problems with the gross calibration of the HD66.
Now I'm wondering if the HD66 is just not the projector for me, or if I'm simply incapable of calibrating the most basic of settings on my own.

Has anyone else experienced this, or is it just me? smile.gif

I looked through my postings where I reviewed it and I don't think I ever posted the actual settings.. I was one of the first people to have a review online when it came out.. That being said, the movie dark looked good out of the box for me, just make sure you are on standard bulb life.. I used the HDTV setup wizard DVD, but if you have a Pixar movie, just pop it in and use the setup in the menu. I have had really good luck setting people up with that.

Is the wall semi-gloss? It might be worth your time to get a piece of blackout cloth for $10 bucks at Joann's fabric and use thumbtacks to stretch it out on the wall with a piece of black cloth for trim. It is about a 10 minute job, with nothing but pushing thumbtacks to accomplish a nice projector screen.
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post #1336 of 1341 Old 09-01-2013, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by RealFloopyGuy View Post

I looked through my postings where I reviewed it and I don't think I ever posted the actual settings.. I was one of the first people to have a review online when it came out.. That being said, the movie dark looked good out of the box for me, just make sure you are on standard bulb life.. I used the HDTV setup wizard DVD, but if you have a Pixar movie, just pop it in and use the setup in the menu. I have had really good luck setting people up with that.

Is the wall semi-gloss? It might be worth your time to get a piece of blackout cloth for $10 bucks at Joann's fabric and use thumbtacks to stretch it out on the wall with a piece of black cloth for trim. It is about a 10 minute job, with nothing but pushing thumbtacks to accomplish a nice projector screen.

Hey thanks for the reply. Actually, the wall I'm projecting on is more of a cream color then absolute white paint. It has no gloss.

I'm just totally baffled as to why my old InFocus 480p looked great projecting on the same wall, default settings. While the HD66 is giving a much lower quality picture no matter how I tweak it.
I was thinking maybe the HD66 is just too many lumens for a dark room projector? I do have the lamp on STD mode. And "FILM" mode selected.

I have a PS3 game that shows about 15 RGB and grayscale squares from left to right across the screen. And actually the squares look most correct and separated with the brightness and contrast set to their middle (50) positions. Unfortunately the image looks bland with these settings. The blacks are not deep, and colors not vibrant. So the next option is to turn down brightness (to about 35 in my case). But quickly the calibration squares on the left (dark) side fade to black. At this point all darkish colors look black (like a dark suit or brown hair). Then the next option is to boost contrast, and while this does make the visible colors very nice, it doesn't do anything for dark colors looking black.... UNTIL I boost it into the 90-100 range, then suddenly the darkest squares are lightened and the image looks much much better (ie only black is black), except for the fact that now the brightest squares in the calibration matrix are all bleeding together, so colorful/bright scenes are harsh on the eyes.
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post #1337 of 1341 Old 10-13-2013, 03:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie46227 View Post

Finally got the chip in (slow plane from China). :-) It came with the thermal 'tape' but i opted for using the Arctic Silver 5. Initially with my unit, it didn't make full contact (you can tell when you pull it off... if it sticks to the controller board, then it's good. Mine didn't.). So I put a little more on and this time it was enough. Put it back together and it has been working fine for 3 days. Hopefully that will continue. No more dots ! :-)

Really, it wasn't hard. if you like to tinker with electronics, it's just a matter of unscrewing, unplugging, and putting it all back together. (And being careful not to break the color wheel). I can take one apart in less than 15 minutes now. Put back together in 15 too. :-)

Hi! I have same problem with my optoma hd67n (dmd chip).


I disassembled the dmd chip but the thermal pad is broken.

 

I will order a new dmd chip in china but I search a good solution to replace the thermal pad.

I think arctic silver 5 is good one but it's too slim... What do you think ?

 

Charlie46227 could you advice ? Your optoma work fine with arctic silver 5 ?

 

Best regards

Christophe from France (sorry for my english)

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post #1338 of 1341 Old 10-13-2013, 04:59 AM
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The thermal pad is there to fill in the gap between the chip and the heat sink. The thinner the better, since the heat won't have to travel as far. As long as the gap is filled, you will be fine. If they were using artic silver at the factory, they probably wouldn't be having the chip problems to begin with.
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post #1339 of 1341 Old 10-15-2013, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedealman View Post

Hey thanks for the reply. Actually, the wall I'm projecting on is more of a cream color then absolute white paint. It has no gloss.

I'm just totally baffled as to why my old InFocus 480p looked great projecting on the same wall, default settings. While the HD66 is giving a much lower quality picture no matter how I tweak it.
I was thinking maybe the HD66 is just too many lumens for a dark room projector? I do have the lamp on STD mode. And "FILM" mode selected.

I have a PS3 game that shows about 15 RGB and grayscale squares from left to right across the screen. And actually the squares look most correct and separated with the brightness and contrast set to their middle (50) positions. Unfortunately the image looks bland with these settings. The blacks are not deep, and colors not vibrant. So the next option is to turn down brightness (to about 35 in my case). But quickly the calibration squares on the left (dark) side fade to black. At this point all darkish colors look black (like a dark suit or brown hair). Then the next option is to boost contrast, and while this does make the visible colors very nice, it doesn't do anything for dark colors looking black.... UNTIL I boost it into the 90-100 range, then suddenly the darkest squares are lightened and the image looks much much better (ie only black is black), except for the fact that now the brightest squares in the calibration matrix are all bleeding together, so colorful/bright scenes are harsh on the eyes.
video is the better gamma for showing shadow detail.....and it sounds like you still have brilliant color on which will do this (more so on the older model units)
I just upgraded to th hd131xe but the hd66 was very reliable for me and will be usd for outdoors viewing.. at my campground now...hd 65 is still kicking in the bedroom as well... (HD131xe is worth the upgrade btw.... brilliant color works better and so does the dynamic black. but the blacks and contrast are way better to begin with...

PS I never understood why optoma strayed from theur normal remote layout on the hd 66.... I hate that remote...never did get used to it...funny my hd 131xe uses the same remote as my older hd 70 and hd65...
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post #1340 of 1341 Old 10-27-2013, 04:53 AM
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Hi all, it isn't just Optima's that is cursed with the star field issues! Texas Instruments should really be embarrassed by selling so man junk chips and making TV and projector companies look bad!

I bought an NEC NP216 that is only a few years old that was filled with stuck mirrors. It was so bad that when I removed the DMD chip you could actually see the logo NEC in the middle of the mirror side!

I was going to repair it and resell it as I like the thought of not dealing with the DMD chip on an LCD but when I took the case apart it is spotless so I think I might keep it to see what 3d looks like at 8 foot wide!

I noticed it had the lousy 'heat transfer film' as well so I planned on using the silver-based paste that Rat Shack sells (expensive at nearly $8 for a teeny-weeny tube) but it is worth every dime!

Those wondering if adding good past to a defective chip will 'fix it' the answer is no, once the mirror (pixel) is stuck it will stay stuck and others will appear. Chip replacement is the only fix. 

Do some research though as the chip I need is a 1280-6039B has been replaced with a newer chip (1280-6338B) that is supposed to last a lot longer than original chip.

The downside id the chip is $105 but considering I only paid $19 plus $19 for shipping (no remote though) plus it has a low hour lamp and in eco mode they last 5000 hours so I guess it is worth it.

I will post results on here when I complete repairs. I will also purchase some 'shutter-style' 3D glasses and report on the effect.

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post #1341 of 1341 Old 04-26-2014, 07:28 PM
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So I just got an HD66 off E-Bay and I'm having some issues with the menu. The image settings don't stick. If I change the brightness it doesn't show in the menu, and then when I go to change the contrast it resets the brightness. I've googled until my fingers bled and I can't see anyone else having an issue like this. Any help?
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