*Official* Epson Home Cinema 8100 owners thread! - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 1937 Old 12-30-2009, 01:40 PM
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c'mon guys, can we move all the price talk to the other thread, this thread is for people who already have an Epson, just sayin...........
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post #182 of 1937 Old 12-30-2009, 02:27 PM
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Sorry boss, lots of folks are looking for the 8100 and I just wanted to let them know about it especially at that price.

I guess now I technically am an 8100 owner so can I post here?

I cut down on the price "chatter" and post something when I am all giggly after hooking up the darn thing...
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post #183 of 1937 Old 12-30-2009, 06:33 PM
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You will be giggly too.
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post #184 of 1937 Old 12-30-2009, 09:27 PM
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I calibrated the "Natural" setting using an old light meter and digital video essentials. By no means is it perfect, but I am happy with the image. Here are my settings. Please let me know if they work for you..........

I have the 8100 hooked up to a Pioneer BDP-320.
  • Brightness -3
  • Contrast -10
  • Color 0
  • Tint 0
  • Temp 6500
  • Skin 3
  • Power Normal
  • Iris Normal

Offset
R 0
G -8
B -8

Gain
R 0
G 27
B 11
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post #185 of 1937 Old 12-31-2009, 04:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Christianson View Post

I calibrated the "Natural" setting using an old light meter and digital video essentials. By no means is it perfect, but I am happy with the image. Here are my settings. Please let me know if they work for you..........

I have the 8100 hooked up to a Pioneer BDP-320.
  • Brightness -3
  • Contrast -10
  • Color 0
  • Tint 0
  • Temp 6500
  • Skin 3
  • Power Normal
  • Iris Normal

Offset
R 0
G -8
B -8

Gain
R 0
G 27
B 11

thanks for the post, I will give it a try on my system
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post #186 of 1937 Old 12-31-2009, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Christianson View Post

I calibrated the "Natural" setting using an old light meter and digital video essentials. By no means is it perfect, but I am happy with the image. Here are my settings. Please let me know if they work for you..........

I have the 8100 hooked up to a Pioneer BDP-320.
  • Brightness -3
  • Contrast -10
  • Color 0
  • Tint 0
  • Temp 6500
  • Skin 3
  • Power Normal
  • Iris Normal

Offset
R 0
G -8
B -8

Gain
R 0
G 27
B 11

Thanks for your time. Posting these settings is much appreciated and does improve on my settings for "Natural".
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post #187 of 1937 Old 12-31-2009, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Christianson View Post

I calibrated the "Natural" setting using an old light meter and digital video essentials. By no means is it perfect, but I am happy with the image. Here are my settings. Please let me know if they work for you..........

I have the 8100 hooked up to a Pioneer BDP-320.
  • Brightness -3
  • Contrast -10
  • Color 0
  • Tint 0
  • Temp 6500
  • Skin 3
  • Power Normal
  • Iris Normal

Offset
R 0
G -8
B -8

Gain
R 0
G 27
B 11

How hard is it to use a colorimeter for calibration? I have just used Spears and Munsil for my calibration.
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post #188 of 1937 Old 12-31-2009, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grishi View Post

How hard is it to use a colorimeter for calibration? I have just used Spears and Munsil for my calibration.

The way I use the light meter is a pain. Using a test disc, you can measure the values of Grey from 0 IRE to 100 IRE and calculate on a spreadsheet.

I used an old program from SMART III for my old Sony HS10 LCD projector which uses red, green and blue filters over the meter. You will then measure each IRE window with the blue filter in place from 0 to 100 IRE and then repeat with the red and green filters. You then input the data into the spreadsheet and it would tell you which color to boost or cut. It also gave recommendations for bias (offset). After changing the settings, you would then run the procedure again and see if further adjustments are necessary. Since the spreadsheet told you to adjust gains and bias by percentages, it would take two or three runs to get it within limits.

Very tedious but I wanted to try it on my new 8100 to see what it would be like. I will still probably have the projector professionally calibrated though because I am a perferctionist and would just be fiddling with the settings all the time if I didn't.
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post #189 of 1937 Old 12-31-2009, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhsmd666 View Post

Thanks for your time. Posting these settings is much appreciated and does improve on my settings for "Natural".

I have a Greywolf II hi-gain (1.8, 13' throw, 106") screen and calibrated it last night with the I1 & the colorHCFR software & the DVE HD disc (There's a thread here called '8100 calibration tips', recommended).
Theater Blk1
6500K temp, Skintone 3, Pwr ECO, Iris off.
Brightness -2
Contrast 0
Gamma 2.2
Offsets;
Red +9
Green -4
Blue -7
Gain;
Red +18 (works!)
Green +1
Blue +8

Looks awesome! Picture now has greater pop & depth. I had tried Art's setting, but got a green push. The DVE HD disk alone wasn't nearly enough. The colorimeter made all the difference. Now I'm going to work on using the AVS HD, instead of the DVE HD, & re-cal the colors again with normal power.
Directions at these links;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1134710
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
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post #190 of 1937 Old 12-31-2009, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tompace View Post

I have a Greywolf II hi-gain (1.8, 13' throw, 106") screen and calibrated it last night with the I1 & the colorHCFR software & the DVE HD disc

Do you have the I1 2 or the LT? I am going to purchase one or the other but not real sure which one to get. Thanks for the settings and links.
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post #191 of 1937 Old 12-31-2009, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tompace View Post

I have a Greywolf II hi-gain (1.8, 13' throw, 106") screen and calibrated it last night with the I1 & the colorHCFR software & the DVE HD disc (There's a thread here called '8100 calibration tips', recommended).
Theater Blk1
6500K temp, Skintone 3, Pwr ECO, Iris off.
Brightness -2
Contrast 0
Gamma 2.2
Offsets;
Red +9
Green -4
Blue -7
Gain;
Red +18 (works!)
Green +1
Blue +8

Looks awesome! Picture now has greater pop & depth. I had tried Art's setting, but got a green push. The DVE HD disk alone wasn't nearly enough. The colorimeter made all the difference. Now I'm going to work on using the AVS HD, instead of the DVE HD, & re-cal the colors again with normal power.
Directions at these links;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1134710
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

Thanks for this! I have the same Greywolf II screen @ 120".
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post #192 of 1937 Old 12-31-2009, 09:50 PM
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some pics I took with natural default settings



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post #193 of 1937 Old 12-31-2009, 09:53 PM
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can you guys please help me choose a screen? so confused. I have light beige walls and ambient light. I want something that deepens my blacks and makes it brighter without sacraficing too much viewing angle. I would like 120"
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post #194 of 1937 Old 12-31-2009, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pringals View Post

Yup... i was going to say the same thing. I hope you see these responses and try a new cable before wasting the time and hassle of returning/exchanging. Especially if you are not using the HDMI but component. I've had many component cables go bad and loose the red signal from time to time making a greener image. I'm new to HDMI so I don't know if it shares the same faults.

you guys were right, it was my HDMI cable not plugged in all the way! thank you!
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post #195 of 1937 Old 12-31-2009, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrTAPOUT View Post

can you guys please help me choose a screen? so confused. I have light beige walls and ambient light. I want something that deepens my blacks and makes it brighter without sacraficing too much viewing angle. I would like 120"

Sorry but you can't have everything. I'm guessing you have a white ceiling to go along with those light walls and ambient light? You're not going to get blacks, brighter picture and viewing angle, no way. There is no magic solution.

You'll have to sacrifice something to get a better picture. Darker walls and ceiling, control the light, use a smaller viewing angle and get a higher gain screen, or a combination of these.

I got a high power screen before I repainted and found that darker walls and a black ceiling did more for the picture then anything else along with controlling the ambient light. I can have ambient light now as long as it is away from the screen. The screen has helped but controlling the light does much more towards improving the picture. Dark ceiling and walls really help in controlling the light.
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post #196 of 1937 Old 12-31-2009, 11:49 PM
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And, On the other hand, the wife is happy, and so am I. I have the set up I want, it's just a bit short of optimal, so, I'm very happy that I have what I have. Time will prevail, as people become educated. RELAX. BE HAPPY!!
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post #197 of 1937 Old 01-01-2010, 12:45 AM
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so I guess my question is, considering I will always have a white ceiling and not dark walls, am I better off upgrading to the 8500UB instead of getting a screen? Is there a good 120" screen to get around 600 bucks?
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post #198 of 1937 Old 01-01-2010, 08:04 AM
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I was able to directly compare the 8100 to the 720 in my theater. I can tell you that with, or without, ambient light the greater contrast of the 8100 made the biggest difference in the picture quality.

I would opt for the projector with the greater contrast even though the lumens are a little less. If that didn't leave enough money for a screen then I'd paint the wall. Check out the DIY screens area for some ideas. A smooth painted wall works quite well.
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post #199 of 1937 Old 01-01-2010, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrTAPOUT View Post

so I guess my question is, considering I will always have a white ceiling and not dark walls, am I better off upgrading to the 8500UB instead of getting a screen? Is there a good 120" screen to get around 600 bucks?

I have a white ceiling, and a light colored stone fireplace on the right wall and light colors on the rest of the walls. I am using a 106" dalite High Power. I could not be happier with the choice. I bought mine from a store on ebay. Here's a link to a 119" http://cgi.ebay.com/DA-LITE-MODEL-C-...item3ef0b6d698 The screen is shipped directly from dalite. The 8100 throws a stunning picture. I still can't believe how incredible it is If you have the extra 800-1000 for the 8500, then go for it. For me, I am not going to see a $1000 worth of better picture, especially with the rapid advances being made in this technology. In 2-3 years, I'll upgrade to the latest and greatest projector for an even better price. You will probably keep the screen longer though, so get something that works for your room. The HP is probably a good bet for you. Also, don't get too wound up about the off axis viewing that people say about the HP. Side viewing of my HP is awesome. Check the HP thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=773065 for some great information. I can watch with my six can lights on if I want to read and I get a great picture, seriously, you have to see it to believe how good it is with the lights on. When, the lights come down for a movie, the picture is nothing short of incredible. I really think you will be happy with the HP screen/8100 projector combination.
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post #200 of 1937 Old 01-01-2010, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badgerpilot View Post

Do you have the I1 2 or the LT? I am going to purchase one or the other but not real sure which one to get. Thanks for the settings and links.

I have the LT. (125 at Amazon.com) The pro is overkill, being the same device but with alleged better software. Only the software is good for monitors & photographers. I don't use the software anyways, the free ColorHCFR software is a lot simpler to use with excellent graphs.

BTW, I found out last night the color gain & offsets are global settings, not individual per color mode selected. So, calibrating with the higher Ftl settings, such as 'Natural' will affect the Theater Black 1, 2, etc.. grey scales.

So I'm recalibrating the ECO mode on the 8100 over again, & with the skin tones at 0. I'll keep you posted.
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post #201 of 1937 Old 01-01-2010, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tompace View Post

I have the LT. (125 at Amazon.com) The pro is overkill, being the same device but with alleged better software. Only the software is good for monitors & photographers. I don't use the software anyways, the free ColorHCFR software is a lot simpler to use with excellent graphs.

BTW, I found out last night the color gain & offsets are global settings, not individual per color mode selected. So, calibrating with the higher Ftl settings, such as 'Natural' will affect the Theater Black 1, 2, etc.. grey scales.

So I'm recalibrating the ECO mode on the 8100 over again, & with the skin tones at 0. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks for the info.
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post #202 of 1937 Old 01-01-2010, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tompace View Post


BTW, I found out last night the color gain & offsets are global settings, not individual per color mode selected. So, calibrating with the higher Ftl settings, such as 'Natural' will affect the Theater Black 1, 2, etc.. grey scales.

So I'm recalibrating the ECO mode on the 8100 over again, & with the skin tones at 0. I'll keep you posted.


Gains and offset changes are NOT the same for each mode. Atleast no on my 8100. When I change a setting on one mode it does not change a setting on the other modes.
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post #203 of 1937 Old 01-01-2010, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by tigerfan33 View Post

Gains and offset changes are NOT the same for each mode. Atleast no on my 8100. When I change a setting on one mode it does not change a setting on the other modes.

Interesting. I just finished double checking (I'm viewing this now with the 8100) and yes, the changes on mine are indeed global. The contrast and brightness are unique settings to each color mode, but the RGB Offsets & Gains are not. If I change a value of say Green offset to -3, that change is updated in all different color modes (Natural, theater blk1, etc.). At least on my 8100. I only have 65 hrs on mine, and it might be a recent change in the production firmware perhaps?

Also interesting, while checking it out, I noticed the settings are the same for my Bluray (PannyBD60 1080P) & my Directv DVR (1080i), but not the HTPC (1080P). So there is a difference in some sources, but not all. I thought perhaps the resolution was why, but apparently not.
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post #204 of 1937 Old 01-01-2010, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badgerpilot View Post

Thanks for the info.

Sure. No problem. BTW the LT software is upgradeable to the Pro, so if you change your mind later, you can get it. The hardware is the same.
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post #205 of 1937 Old 01-01-2010, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tompace View Post

Interesting. I just finished double checking (I'm viewing this now with the 8100) and yes, the changes on mine are indeed global. The contrast and brightness are unique settings to each color mode, but the RGB Offsets & Gains are not. If I change a value of say Green offset to -3, that change is updated in all different color modes (Natural, theater blk1, etc.). At least on my 8100. I only have 65 hrs on mine, and it might be a recent change in the production firmware perhaps?

Also interesting, while checking it out, I noticed the settings are the same for my Bluray (PannyBD60 1080P) & my Directv DVR (1080i), but not the HTPC (1080P). So there is a difference in some sources, but not all. I thought perhaps the resolution was why, but apparently not.

Same, its global for me as well.

For the Htpc, and depending on your video card, you might have to turn on the 4:2:2 mode. On ati cards its default is 4:4:4 YCbCr. On Nvidia cards, you can change the color to 16-255 instead of the default 0.

Also depending on the programs you use to show your video, tweaks might be needed.
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post #206 of 1937 Old 01-02-2010, 03:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badgerpilot View Post

I have a white ceiling, and a light colored stone fireplace on the right wall and light colors on the rest of the walls. I am using a 106" dalite High Power. I could not be happier with the choice. I bought mine from a store on ebay. Here's a link to a 119" http://cgi.ebay.com/DA-LITE-MODEL-C-...item3ef0b6d698 The screen is shipped directly from dalite. The 8100 throws a stunning picture. I still can't believe how incredible it is If you have the extra 800-1000 for the 8500, then go for it. For me, I am not going to see a $1000 worth of better picture, especially with the rapid advances being made in this technology. In 2-3 years, I'll upgrade to the latest and greatest projector for an even better price. You will probably keep the screen longer though, so get something that works for your room. The HP is probably a good bet for you. Also, don't get too wound up about the off axis viewing that people say about the HP. Side viewing of my HP is awesome. Check the HP thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=773065 for some great information. I can watch with my six can lights on if I want to read and I get a great picture, seriously, you have to see it to believe how good it is with the lights on. When, the lights come down for a movie, the picture is nothing short of incredible. I really think you will be happy with the HP screen/8100 projector combination.

great info, thank you
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post #207 of 1937 Old 01-02-2010, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tompace View Post

Sure. No problem. BTW the LT software is upgradeable to the Pro, so if you change your mind later, you can get it. The hardware is the same.

Thanks, ordered the LT yesterday, so hopefully I'll have it sometime next week.
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post #208 of 1937 Old 01-02-2010, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrTAPOUT View Post

great info, thank you

I have the same 106" Da-Lite High Power screen ordered from the same vendor as badgerpilot.

Best price, great service, and I can second that that picture is amazing w/ the 8100 projector.

I've become more "popular" as friends now just show up w/ movies to watch and xbox games to play.

One of my friends ordered the exact same setup after watching a movie at my house.

I've got 65 flawless hours on the PJ in 30 days and counting... I'm off to watch a movie...

Thanks.
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post #209 of 1937 Old 01-03-2010, 07:38 PM
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Where and how do you place the sensor? Do you mount it on a tripod and point it at the screen? I thought they were for emissive displays like LCDs where you can place them directly on the surface of the screen.


Quote:
Originally Posted by tompace View Post

I have the LT. (125 at Amazon.com) The pro is overkill, being the same device but with alleged better software. Only the software is good for monitors & photographers. I don't use the software anyways, the free ColorHCFR software is a lot simpler to use with excellent graphs.

BTW, I found out last night the color gain & offsets are global settings, not individual per color mode selected. So, calibrating with the higher Ftl settings, such as 'Natural' will affect the Theater Black 1, 2, etc.. grey scales.

So I'm recalibrating the ECO mode on the 8100 over again, & with the skin tones at 0. I'll keep you posted.

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post #210 of 1937 Old 01-03-2010, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tompace View Post

Interesting. I just finished double checking (I'm viewing this now with the 8100) and yes, the changes on mine are indeed global. The contrast and brightness are unique settings to each color mode, but the RGB Offsets & Gains are not. If I change a value of say Green offset to -3, that change is updated in all different color modes (Natural, theater blk1, etc.). At least on my 8100. I only have 65 hrs on mine, and it might be a recent change in the production firmware perhaps?

Also interesting, while checking it out, I noticed the settings are the same for my Bluray (PannyBD60 1080P) & my Directv DVR (1080i), but not the HTPC (1080P). So there is a difference in some sources, but not all. I thought perhaps the resolution was why, but apparently not.

Once set/tweeked in a particular mode...say normal or thtr blk 1...save it in memory.
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